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Athens to Copenhagen
  • James Gilbert
  • Elubia Gilbert
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  • James Gilbert
  • Elubia Gilbert

Athens to Copenhagen

Cycling from Athens to Copenhagen — solo to Vienna, then finishing the ride with Elubia to Copenhagen Les mer
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    Athens to Copenhagen
    A first for me in a hotel room: a private urinal.

    Day 31 — Athens to Copenhagen | Passau → Rebling,

    5. oktober, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    We started the morning with Mass at St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Passau, then headed out into cold fog. The coffee shop we wanted was closed, so breakfast ended up being coffee and food from a grocery store. Not long after that the sun came out and the day completely changed — blue skies, perfect temperatures, little Bavarian towns and huge fields of bright yellow mustard flowers along the Danube. We stopped at McDonald’s for lunch in Deggendorf, and by then I was feeling good enough that the climb to our hotel no longer sounded quite so stupid. 😄 The Honey Badger needed a climb. It was plenty hard at the end, but worth it. We finished at Naturhotel Rebling up in the hills, spent the afternoon in the pool and spa, and ended the day with a very good dinner. A much better finish than I expected when we first arrived.Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen
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    Day 30 Athens to Copenhagen. Linz to Passau 60 mi

    5. oktober, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Off from Linz at 6:40. Much of the day followed the Danube, but the best part was later when we dropped into one of the most beautiful valleys w’ve ever ridden through. Steep wooded hills, great fall colors, marshes, swans, castles above the river, and for long stretches we had the bike path almost completely to ourselves. Perfect weather. We stopped for apple strudel with ice cream overlooking the river, then crossed into Germany and finished in beautiful Passau. Days like this remind me again: the best way to see the world is by bike.Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 29 Athens to Copenhagen , Grein to Linz 38 mil

    4. oktober, Østerrike ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Left Grein in cool gray weather with the Danube almost like glass. The sun came out and it ended up being a really nice ride — mostly easy bike paths, woods, farmland, a coffee stop, apples from a roadside stand, and a few odd things along the way like the giant fish. We got into Linz early, showered and did laundry, then walked to Mass. It turned out to be an African English-speaking Catholic Mass with great music, percussion and a little dancing. The people were incredibly welcoming, helped us with the songbook, and afterward offered us a beer and stood around talking with us. The homily line I liked was basically: God gives you the tree, now give Him some fruit. Then we went to the fair and had really good Steckerlfisch (whole smoky grilled mackerel on a stick) with Schilcher Sturm (young, partially fermented wine), and met a guy from Mission, South Dakota. Finished the night walking back along the Danube with Linz all lit up. Really good day.Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Athens to Copenhagen Day 28 WeiBenkirchen to Grein

    3. oktober, Østerrike ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Today was exactly the kind of touring day I wanted Gigi to have. We left Weißenkirchen, after a nice breakfast at the hotel, with only about 41 miles to ride and took our time. We skipped the early ferry rather than wait, stayed along the Danube, and accidentally found the fortified church at St. Michael. It turned into one of the best stops of the trip—we wandered through the church, climbed the old defensive tower for incredible views over the Wachau, saw the little “Seven Hares” along the roof, and lit a candle before moving on.

    A few miles later we took the little ferry across at Spitz. I asked the ferryman when he was leaving and he just shrugged: “Whenever.” On board we asked a German tourist to take our picture. He kept saying “Bussi,” Austrian for a little kiss. To my American ear it sounded like a very different word. I tried to explain that to him and his wife turned bright red. We all ended up laughing.

    We stopped for coffee overlooking the Danube, rode past Melk Abbey, and eventually rolled into Grein around 2:30. Bikes washed and locked in the garage, laundry done, showered, beer from the hotel vending machine, Grein turned out to be exactly our kind of town—small, quiet, beautiful, and almost completely free of the crowds we’d had in Vienna.

    Walking around before dinner, we stumbled onto the local soccer match. The little grandstand was packed, people were walking around with beers in real glasses, and almost as soon as we arrived Grein scored a penalty right in front of us. Dinner at Zur Traube was excellent—we shared quick-fried venison, and the apple-red cabbage was the hit of the meal.

    Forty-one miles, but today really wasn’t about the miles. A proper touring day with my wife of 40 years.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Athens to Copenhagen — Day 27: Vienna to Weißenkir

    2. oktober, Østerrike ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Elubias first real day of the tour, and we couldn’t have asked for a better one. We left Vienna in perfect weather and spent most of the day on beautiful, easy bike paths along the Danube. We passed Klosterneuburg Abbey, stopped for coffee in Tulln, and unexpectedly found a statue of Marcus Aurelius — one of my favorites — right along the old Roman road. Later we came into the Wachau. The Danube Valley in Lower Austria and the scenery completely changed. steep terraced vineyards climbing the hillsides beneath the castle ruins. Finished in tiny Weißenkirchen, beneath its old fortified church, and celebrated at our winery with local Grüner Veltliner and an excellent dinner. This day was about as good a first touring day together as I could have hoped for.Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen
    Male genitalia sideFemale side

    Day 26 Vienna your day

    1. oktober, Østerrike ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    We started the day with Mass at St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The priest was very old, walking with a cane and being helped by his assistant. It was a very peaceful way to start the morning. The best ways to experience one of these huge old cathedrals is actually to go to Mass — you can sit quietly and really take the place in.

    Afterward we did a walking tour through central Vienna. Two things really stuck with us. At the Imperial Crypt we heard the story of the Habsburg funeral ritual: they knock and announce the dead person with all of his royal titles, and the monk says he doesn’t know him. Finally they say, “a poor sinner,” and the door opens. Then at St. Stephen’s we learned that the columns beside the entrance actually have carvings of male and female genitalia. Nobody seems to know for certain why they’re there, but once the guide pointed them out, there they were.

    Later we took the subway out to Schönbrunn, the former summer palace of the Habsburgs, the royal family that ruled Austria for centuries, and toured the enormous formal gardens.

    For our last dinner we ended up at the Prater, Vienna’s enormous public park with a huge old amusement-park area, sharing a giant schnitzel and a couple beers while the rides ran and people streamed past our table. I told Gigi it felt like we were eating in the Austrian section of Disney World — except this was the real Austria and the food cost about a third as much. I had pictured white tablecloths and a fancy last dinner in Vienna, but we both decided the giant schnitzel, grumpy waitress and people-watching were much more our style.

    Back at the hotel now, panniers packed, alarm set for 05:00 am. Time to get back into the touring routine. Copenhagen is about 2 weeks away.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen
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    Day 25 Vienna with Elubia

    30. september, Østerrike ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Today was Gigi’s first full day in Vienna and the real start of Chapter Two. We picked up her new e-bike this morning, spent way too long talking and drinking coffee with the great guys at the bike shop, and then took it out for an easy sightseeing ride around Vienna. We saw the Giant Ferris Wheel, Hundertwasserhaus, St. Stephen’s Cathedral and somehow wandered right into the Hofburg. We finished the afternoon at Café Landtmann, then tonight went to Tosca at the Vienna State Opera. The singing was amazing, and even the standing-room tickets worked out pretty well. We ended the night with a cocktail and a beautiful rooftop view over Vienna. A very good first day together.Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen
    View from my window this morningCastle indicating I crossed into AustriaHypnotizing bridgeFirst view of ViennaSt Francis Assisi ChurchFirst Vienna Wienerschnitzel and BeerBusy pedestrian area downtown Vienna

    Day 24 Bratislava to Vienna

    29. september, Slovakia ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Chapter Two Begins - my wife of 40 years arrived.

    A little later start from Bratislava today, but good weather and a favorable wind made the 42.1 miles to Vienna pretty easy. Soon after crossing into Austria I rode below the ruins of Heimenburg Castle above Hainburg. The fortress dates back to 1040, it was later badly damaged during the Ottoman attacks of 1529 and 1683.

    The most memorable part of the ride was the 1.2-mile Andreas-Maurer Bridge. It seemed to go on forever—the railings and shadows repeating, click, click, click, while I kept my eyes focused straight ahead. Every so often a semi would roar past and the crosswind would shove me a little. It was hypnotic.

    The closer I got to Vienna, the Danube Trail became more groomed and commercial—perfect paths, rest stops and cyclists everywhere. Nice riding, but I found myself missing some of the rougher, less predictable parts of the trip. Then, I passed the e-bike shop I planned on visiting tomorrow to shop for an e-bike for Elubia to ride to Copenhagen with me. The plan is to sell it in Copenhagen. Cheaper than a two week rental and no way to actually rent one way. Nice guy at the shop helped me find a perfect bike. Will pick it up tomorrow if Elubia approves. Checked into the hotel, laundry done, showered by 2 pm. Then great lunch, Wiener schnitzel and a Dunkel. The solo chapter is over. Chapter 2 begins.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 23 Century to Bratislava 1 day to Vienna

    28. september, Ungarn ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

    A really good 100-mile day into Bratislava. Beautiful weather, a favorable wind, and miles of smooth, flat bike paths made for some of the nicest riding of the trip.

    I stopped at the Roman fort at Iža, dating back to the 2nd century. The first fort there was built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius, around the time of the Marcomannic Wars, roughly 1,850 years ago. Marcus Aurelius wrote about many of the same struggles we still have today.

    I felt especially grateful today. The weather was good, the bike was rolling well, and I had plenty of time to think about how fortunate I am to be out here doing this. Life is good.

    Tonight Elubia is on the plane, and tomorrow I ride to Vienna to meet her. One more day of the solo part of Athens to Copenhagen.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen
    First view of Esztergom Basilica from across the Danube — a pretty spectacular welcome into town.”
    Morning in Belgrade, chain BridgeView of Danube from chain bridge in BelgradeBelgrade ParliamentCoffee and "cheese toast" at McDonald's2 Hungarian ambulance drives taking a smoke break.Luring in thirsty cyclistsNice bike pathsFirst view of Esztergom Basilica from across the Danube — a pretty spectacular welcome into town.”Almost rode into finish line of 1/2 marathonSteep stairs to the BasilicaSunset after massHotel staff left breakfast for me.

    Day 21 Budapest to Esztergom

    27. september, Ungarn ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

    I took the longer scenic route along the Danube today instead of trying to make time, and it was one of the easiest and most enjoyable days of the trip. Cool weather, smooth bike paths, quiet villages and long stretches along the river. It almost felt like a rest day on my bike. I met two Hungarian ambulance guys taking a break by the Danube. I showed them a picture of my firefighter/paramedic son and told them I hoped I wouldn’t need their services. I’m also starting to see a lot more cycle tourists now, almost all headed the other way. Two days to Vierna, 135 miles, need to be there before Elubia makes it.

    Coming into Esztergom was entertaining. I was climbing on cobblestones with a line of cars behind me revving their engines and wondering what the hell was going on. Then I realized I had ridden into a car-show procession—finished the hard climb and almost road onto tbe finish chute of a 1/2 marathon. 😊Esztergom turned out to be a really nice town. Nice old town, Basilica is spectacular. Fish soup for dinner, Then walked up the old stone steps to the Basilica for 6:00 Mass. Told the hotel clerk I would not need breakfast, came back to my room and there was a bag with 2 sandwiches, water, fruit and cinnamon roll. Nice surprise. What a great day, the route was very nice today, keeps getting better.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 21 Bolt to Budapest

    26. september, Ungarn ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Day 21 – Bolt to Budapest – 64 miles

    Today had everything. Perfect weather, almost no wind, quiet Danube villages, fishermen, smooth bike paths, rough dirt and even a little singletrack. I detoured around some dirt and ended up twice on Highway 51 — fast traffic and no fun at all — but most of the day was peaceful and beautiful. Coming into Budapest I passed a big rowing competition with the crowd roaring. Made it in early afternoon, got the Koga safely tucked into the courtyard, then walked around the Basilica and Chain Bridge and had a good meal. Touring by bike is the best. Only three days to Vienna , 3 days a head is schedule.Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen
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    Day 20 Baja to Bolt 52 miles

    25. september, Ungarn ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    Hungary continues to be a pleasant surprise. I left Baja after breakfast and spent much of the day on excellent bike paths and quiet roads, including stretches along the Danube and EuroVelo 6. The countryside was flat and open, with little villages, houses covered in drying paprika, a pony playing beside the road, and bicycles everywhere. Even when I was on regular roads, drivers were remarkably courteous—slowing down, moving well over to pass, and often yielding to me at intersections.

    The highlight came when I stopped to admire a yellow Catholic church in Dunapataj. An older man came out carrying bread, closed the gate and started talking rapidly to me in Hungarian. After some of my experiences farther south, my first thought was, Oh shit, am I doing something wrong? Then another man drove up who spoke a little English. I explained that I was simply admiring the church. He smiled, told me it was an old Catholic church, and motioned for the older gentleman to take me inside.

    He gave me a private church tour. The man spoke no English, but he was obviously very proud of his church. He showed me the altar, statues and one of the church’s relics. With a little translation help from my phone, I thanked him, we had a hearty handshake, and parted as friends. I later learned the church dates to 1761 and that, when it was enlarged in 1934, the sanctuary was actually moved about 30 feet. Pretty remarkable little place to stumble across on a bicycle.

    The friendliness continued when I reached Solt. At the grocery store a man struck up a conversation in broken English. I showed him my FindPenguins map—Athens to Copenhagen—and told him I was from America. He seemed genuinely impressed that an old guy was out doing this, told me I was really living life, and wished me good luck.

    I finished the day at a very nice 2 bedroom house with a washer and a hot tub, a cold Hungarian beer, and an excellent dinner of cigánypecsenye—garlicky grilled pork with fries and salad.

    52 miles farther north, one day from Budapest and 3 days a head of schedule. If only the headwinds would ease off a little.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 17 — Athens to Copenhagen 🇬🇷➡️🇩🇰

    24. september, Serbia ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Like Cycle Touring Again

    I was hoping today would finally be an easier day. Had to call the owner , no answer, texts, finally she sent her father to let me in. Left at 0630 not 6 as planned. Re routes to add 20 miles to the route.

    The re route was worth the extra 20 miles. The roads were quiet. No wind. No cars flying past me. Birds waking up and the trees not moving. After the last few days, I could finally relax and just pedal.

    I picked up the Amazon of Europe Bike Trail through the Danube wetlands. Beautiful riding — until a locked gate and an overgrown trail sent me onto a rough dirt detour. Later I discovered I had a slow rear puncture. Added some air, let the sealant do its job, and kept going. It held.

    By noon I was approaching the Hungarian border. The crossing took maybe ten minutes. The Hungarian border officer chatted with me, gave my bags a mostly ceremonial inspection and I pedaled on.

    The difference was immediate. Two-lane roads with no shoulders, but when cars passed they actually moved into the other lane. Then came smooth dedicated bike paths. I could put some pressure on the pedals and the bike would move. Not fighting a headwind, not bracing for another close pass — just cruising, listening to music.

    I caught myself thinking: I like cycle touring again.

    Made Baja at 3:24 — 78.3 miles at 10.99 mph. Tonight I walked along the river, had blackcurrant pálinka, and tried Baja’s famous fisherman’s soup with carp and noodles. Much better than I expected and just about the perfect post-ride meal.

    A very typical bicycle touring day: locked doors, dirt roads, a puncture, a border crossing, some uncertainty — and then one of those stretches that reminds you exactly why you do this.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Headwind again, 51 miles 92 % headwind

    23. september, Serbia ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Headwind Kind of Day. I’m going the wrong way, when is it gong to stop

    I woke up tired today, an hour later than planned and my planned breakfast places were closed

    The route out of Novi Sad was mostly good — miles of cycle paths and levees along the Danube — but it was flat, exposed and windy. That damn headwind pressured me all day. Later came some dirt roads and more Serbian traffic, including the now-familiar cars flying past much closer than I’d prefer.

    But there were some good moments. I finally rolled the Koga down to the Danube and dipped a tire in the river for the first time. I also met a young guy and his father-in-law cycling from Vienna to Belgrade. They’d been following EuroVelo 6 for seven days and, annoyingly, told me they’d enjoyed a tailwind most of the way. 😄

    I’d originally planned to keep riding to Sombor, but after about 51 miles I was done. I stopped in the little town of Odžaci, found a fantastic apartment, put my feet up, and decided that Budapest can take three days instead of two.

    The surprise of the day came tonight. My hostess recommended Galerija, a restaurant just around the corner. I sat on the quiet garden patio with a rakija waiting for my take out dinner. Beautiful courtyard, soft music, friendly people — honestly one of the nicest places I’ve sat on this entire trip.

    Some days bicycle touring gives you mountains, monuments and spectacular views. Other days it gives you a headwind, tired legs, a little loneliness — and then, when you least expect it, a perfect little patio in Odža    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen
    The Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary at Banstol — my “Emerald City” at the top of the climb
    Leaving BelgradeEarly morning Belgrade'sBridge over BelgradeHigh hopes nice bike pathHeavy rush hour traffic, no shoulderMore traffic in BeligisOpen farm country and headwinds, just like South DakotaLunch stop on tbe Danube1 litter of fish soupHad this round after lunch,The Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary at Banstol — my “Emerald City” at the top of the climbThese road workers waved me onto their fresh pavement to escape the traffic.One last obstacle: hauling the loaded bike up these stairs in Novi Sad.The view over central Novi Sad from my apartment.Bike safely inside. That felt very good.Catholic Church outside my windowDinner in Novi Sad — grilled meat, potatoes, cabbage salad and a very welcome beer.

    Day 15 not the easy day I expected

    22. september, Serbia ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    61 miles 2195 feet of climbing and an all day headwind.

    Today was supposed to be my easy, flat day along the Danube from Belgrade to Novi Sad.

    It started that way. Cool fall air, beautiful separated bike paths leaving Belgrade, and for a while I thought I had finally earned an easy one. Then the bike path ended and I found myself on one of the worst traffic roads I’ve ridden anywhere—two lanes, no shoulder, buses and trucks, and cars passing much too close. I was furious. Eventually I bailed onto EuroVelo 6, and the day changed.

    The roads became quiet little village roads through open farm country that reminded me a lot of eastern South Dakota. Unfortunately, so did the wind. Head down, pedal. And it rained to test my patience.

    I made a questionable but worthwhile detour down to the Danube at Stari Slankamen for lunch. A young waiter brought me what turned out to be about a liter of fish soup, bread and coffee. Getting back out required climbing the steep hill I had just descended

    Later came cold rain, more headwind and one final miserable climb. Then the rain stopped, the wind eased, and at the summit this incredible green-and-gold church appeared. For a moment I thought I reached the the Emerald City. It was a Greek Orthodox Church.

    The approach into Novi Sad had horrible traffic, but a road crew waved me into their construction zone and let me ride their brand-new pavement to escape it. Perfect ending to the riding part of the day.

    But I finished safely in a beautiful apartment overlooking central Novi Sad. Had a great Lamb and cabage salad for dinner.

    Hard day. Good day. That seems to be bicycle touring.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 14 Made it to the Danube

    21. september, Serbia ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Nine months ago I was feeling the itch to do another tour. I looked at a map and thought, I’ve never been to Athens. Then I looked north and saw the Danube. I didn’t think it was possible. Today I reached the

    I left Svilajnac early after saying goodbye to Zorica and rode about five miles to the little station at Markovac. The route included another Serbian adventure — a floating military-style pontoon bridge that actually moved when cars crossed it.

    Markovac station may be one of my favorite memories of Serbia. The railway workers were drinking coffee and smoking inside. One woman would put on her bright red railway cap whenever a train approached, walk outside and signal it, then come back in and take the cap off. When I jumped up for what turned out to be only a locomotive, she laughed and told me, “I’ll tell you when”.

    The passenger train arrived about 45 minutes late in the rain, and out she came in the full-length railway coat they had brought her. She motioned me where to stand.

    The conductor helped me get the loaded Koga aboard, and I was riding comfortably toward Belgrade instead of fighting Serbian traffic for another long day.

    Belgrade supplied plenty of traffic anyway. 😄 But once I fought my way through it and reached the Sava River I rode along the waterfront and eventually saw where the Sava joins the Danube.

    That hit me.

    I’ve been thinking about the Danube for nine months. Tomorrow I start riding along it toward Budapest. Farther upstream in Vienna I’ll meet Gigi, and eventually we’ll ride together along the Danube toward Copenhagen.

    Something that once seemed almost impossible has somehow become where I am standing.

    Tonight I’m on the ninth floor of a very comfortable apartment overlooking the river — showered, sweats on, feet up. Small dinner, early bed, and tomorrow the bike points north again along the Danube towards Novi Sad.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 13, the Honey Badger still has it

    20. september, Serbia ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    Out at 5:45 this morning. Cool air, quiet roads and a beautiful start through Serbia. For the first few hours I felt great and deliberately kept the effort easy. I knew I had almost 90 miles ahead of me.

    That turned out to be a good decision.

    By late morning the heat arrived, along with a headwind. After Paraćin came a long exposed climb, and then the final 25 miles became a grind into the wind on tired legs. At that point there wasn’t much sightseeing going on. Just pedal, drink, eat, repeat.

    88.6 miles (142 km) and 2,914 feet of climbing. I was tired when I finally rolled into Svilajnac, but very happy.

    And then the day changed completely.

    My hostess had actually seen me riding toward town about an hour before I arrived and called her daughter saying she thought she’d spotted her Cycilist guest. She said I was the first American to stay here. With the nearby restaurants closed on Sunday, she drove me to a beautiful restaurant outside town.

    After nearly ten hours on the bike, lamb roasted with potatoes and carrots, vitamin salad, Serbian brandy and red wine tasted ridiculously good.

    She came back to pick me up afterward, and we ended up sitting and talking for probably 30 minutes about Serbia, politics, family and life. I’d been wondering why some people here seemed distant toward me. She told me not to take it personally. Her explanation was simple: people have their own frustrations and worries and sometimes just don’t pay much attention to anyone else.

    Now I’m sitting on the balcony. Laundry is done. The bike is downstairs. I’m fed, tired and very happy.

    Tomorrow I’m taking a train toward Belgrade. I could ride it, but I don’t like the traffic and there’s no reason to prove anything by taking unnecessary risks.

    What a trip.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 13 Fall Showed up

    19. september, Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Day 12 — Fall showed up

    A really nice day riding north through southern Serbia. The morning started cool, with mountain roads, rivers, tunnels and almost no traffic. I stopped along the river for a cappuccino — no food, unfortunately — and watched a couple guys fishing before getting back on the bike.

    Today definitely felt like fall. The cornfields have been harvested. I passed tractors bringing in tomatoes and chili peppers, men cutting firewood in the little villages, and the hills are starting to change color. Athens was hot, sweaty summer riding. Up here in Serbia, feels like fall.

    The little villages are always interesting. I get plenty of stares rolling through on a loaded bicycle, but every once in a while somebody gives me a big thumbs-up.

    Leskovac was the opposite — busy traffic and a little chaos. I watched two cars bump each other and the drivers immediately got out and went forehead-to-forehead like two dogs fighting. 😄 I stopped for a good chicken-and-potato lunch, then headed north again.

    The afternoon was flatter, hotter and windier. Windsock says I had a headwind for 89% of the ride — more than four hours of it. And I’m getting a little tired of drivers passing inches away on these two-lane roads when all they have to do is slow down for a few seconds and move over. Same thing happens back home. Share the damn road.

    Made it to Niš with 71.9 miles behind me. Laundry done, steak, a little Serbian rakija, gelato, and feet up.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 11 Made it to Serbia

    18. september, Nord-Makedonia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    North Macedonia → Serbia

    A long day today — 61 miles and 4,232 feet of climbing, with the hardest climb saved for last. It was a tough one, but I made it over without getting off the bike. Very glad when that one was behind me.

    The best part of the day was the little border crossing leaving North Macedonia. When I arrived, I was the only person there. A couple of guards were sitting outside at a picnic table, and one of them went into the booth and became very official. He looked at my passport, made me take my glasses off, looked at me again and finally asked, “How old are you?”

    “65.”

    He looked surprised. “I thought you were 50.”

    Then the questions started. Where are you from? America. Where are you riding from? Athens. Where are you riding to? Vienna.

    That changed everything. 😄

    Suddenly everybody was friendly and curious. I asked if there was anywhere ahead to get food. Apparently not for another 30 or 50 kilometers. Dam, I thought there would be good at the border, they showed me the outdoor faucet for water.

    The other guards came over from the picnic table, so I showed them my FindPenguins trip and where I had ridden. They couldn’t believe it. At some point they decided I looked like George Clooney 😂 and wanted a selfie with me.

    By the time I left, we were good friends. I put my hand out for a normal handshake, but they gave me one of those big clasped-hand, elbows-bent greetings instead. One after another: “Bravo! Bravo!” and “Good for you.” “Cao”

    Then I crossed into Serbia and rode for miles through beautiful, very remote countryside before finally finding locating my portent $45, king bed, 2 person whirlpool, dry sauna, slippers, good smelling body spray lotion. Pay the guy at the jewel store under the apartment, cash only.

    Tonight I’m settled in Vranje — showered, laundry done, air conditioning on, and dinner included cabbage salad, Serbian food and a glass of plum rakija.

    A hard day, but a really good one.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Rest day in Skopje

    17. september, Nord-Makedonia ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Easy day in Skopje. Great breakfast buffet at the Marriott, then a leisurely self-guided walking tour around the city. Watched a movie, made an unsuccessful attempt to get the bike’s USB-C charger fixed, then finished the afternoon with tavče gravče and kebapche, followed by ice cream on the walk back. Another movie, packed everything up, route planned, and in bed by 7. Long day tomorrow — crossing into Serbia.Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen
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    Day 10 Kavadarci to Skopje the Capital

    16. september, Nord-Makedonia ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    Out early again, cool air and perfect riding weather. The cafés were still closed, but a little market was open. I asked for coffee and somehow ended up with canned espresso and two enormous sandwiches made from bread that had just been delivered. I sat outside eating breakfast while kids quietly walked to school and village life started around me.

    Veles was busy, but there were good moments — kids having some kind of sports day in the stadium, and a little bakery where the women tried hard to help me find coffee. One of them even ran outside when I walked past the machine she was pointing me toward. Unfortunately, the damn thing was broken.

    Then came the best part of the day: three glorious climbs. I stayed on the older road even when locals suggested the newer highway. The pavement was rough in places, but it was quiet, beautiful, and exactly where I wanted to be.

    A ridiculous signpost reassured me: Vienna this way — about 1,000 km. Copenhagen this way — about 2,100 km. Still headed in the right direction. 😄

    The last 12–18 miles into Skopje were the opposite of the morning: traffic, buses, rough roads and city chaos. Not a great first impression. But I found the apartment, carried the loaded Koga up four flights of stairs, showered, and was done.

    Dinner improved things considerably. Beetroot-avocado salad, seafood squid-ink risotto and a bottle of Macedonian Tikveš red. I also managed to unscrew an entire salt-shaker lid onto my first salad. They kindly replaced it.

    62.4 miles, 2,490 feet of climbing. Three glorious climbs. Wound the spring all morning, then let it unwind to Skopje.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 9 Bitola to Kavadarci 55 miles 2329 ft

    15. september, Nord-Makedonia ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Another memorable touring day in North Macedonia.

    The biggest challenge today wasn’t the climbing — it was the traffic. Long stretches of busy road with semis, cars and some very close passes required 100% attention. Bicycle touring teaches patience: sometimes you trust that eventually the road will improve.

    I stopped in Prilep for breakfast, riding past fields of tobacco on the way into town. Then came the main climb of the day — Pletvar Pass, topping out at 3,275 ft. On the other side, the traffic finally faded and the riding became beautiful: mountains, quiet roads, vineyards, and eventually a little dirt and gravel.

    The last miles into Kavadarci were my favorite. I rode through the middle of the grape harvest: tractors loaded with grapes going both directions, semis and local cars mixed in, a horse-drawn cart — and one 65-year-old American on a loaded bicycle somehow part of the same little procession.

    Kavadarci gave me one last little adventure. The apartment was hard to find, but after a few calls and messages I finally connected with the owner’s parents, who were very kind and helped me get settled. The apartment is excellent, and the Koga even has its own secure little cellar under the building.

     Finished the day in wine country with a glass of local Temjanika. I’m really enjoying North Macedonia — friendly people, beautiful scenery, and hardly another tourist in sight.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen
    2

    Day 8 Greece to North Macedonia

    14. september, Hellas ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    🇬🇷➡️🇲🇰 | 46.5 mi • 1,713 ft

    Fantastic touring day. Much less climbing today, and although I still had a northerly headwind, it was nothing like yesterday. Most of the roads were smooth and beautiful as the countryside gradually changed heading north.

    Komoot did send me into a huge solar farm where the road was blocked, so I had to improvise through some farm roads. The dogs made it very clear I wasn’t welcome. Then I passed a bear-crossing sign and started wondering why I left the bear spray at home.

    The best part of the day was the people. I had a wonderful broken-language conversation with a shepherd couple; by the time I left, he was calling me Jim, gave me a hug, and wished me well. Later I met Bjorn, a German cyclist heading the opposite direction toward Istanbul, and we spent a while talking bikes and touring.

    The border crossing into North Macedonia was easy, and I ended the day in Bitola, which has been a great surprise — lively pedestrian streets, friendly people, good food, and a fantastic room right downtown.

    Eight riding days in. Greece behind me, North Macedonia ahead. Great day.    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 8 — Aiani to Ptolemaida — 31 miles, ~2,300 ft

    13. september, Hellas ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    planned an easy Sunday ride. No cafes open, Swedish fish and instant hotel lukewarm warm and instant coffee for breakfast

    The morning started beautifully—cool, quiet, almost no wind. I stopped outside an Orthodox church and listened to the priest singing in Greek, then later stopped at a little roadside chapel, lit a candle.

    The problem was finding coffee or food. Everything in the little villages were closed. I was looking at my phone and a nice a woman called to me from her balcony, opened her door and gave me fresh coffee and cake. Very nice lady, husband didn’t seem happy. But Google translate helped, I gave her a hug and her husband shook my hand

    I stopped in Kozani and sat for a while watching people have their Sunday coffee. No tourists, no gift shops, no McDonald’s—just people living their lives.

    Then came the work. The wind picked up Always head wind, sucked. . An old man standing along one little neighborhood street stared at me as I approached. I waved. He stood at attention and saluted me.

    I made it to Ptolemaida. Rented a VRBO apartment, very nice washer to do laundry.

    Tonight: clean clothes, beef cheeks for the first time, and apparently when you ask for ouzo in northern Greece, you may get tsipouro. Tastes like Ouso. Tomorrow cross the border to north Macedonia    Les mer

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  • Athens to Copenhagen

    Day 7 — Meteora to Aiani — 55 miles, 3,875 ft 🇬🇷

    12. september, Hellas ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    This morning seems like so long ago, left at 06:00 am and arrived 4 pm. I was surprised when I came downstairs at the Meteora hotel and found my bike already waiting for me in the breakfast room, along with a packed breakfast for the road. First-class service. The guy at the desk handed everything over, looked at me and my loaded bike, and I’m pretty sure he was wondering what this crazy American was doing.

    I started climbing almost immediately. My legs were really sore from my “rest day” touring Meteora yesterday, and early on I honestly wondered if I was going to make it.

    I stopped below an old hermitage, ate my breakfast and felt better. Then came gravel, rocks, heat and lots of climbing. Very rural. Very few cars. Tiny villages, hunters and dogs, and old guys sitting around watching me ride through.

    The first climb was hard, but it got worse when it turned to gravel. The anticipated payoff was a very rough descent with gravel and rocks. Damn it. I needed a rest, and it was getting hot.

    Lunch was another adventure. Nobody spoke English, so I pointed at what the old guys were eating and ended up with anchovies, potatoes, beets and tzatziki. Perfect, lots of salt.

    The big climb was hot and slow. I rode what I could and walked some. Being that remote definitely made me nervous. More than once I thought, Why am I out here?

    Near the top I stopped at a tiny Orthodox shrine and lit a candle. Soon afterward the clouds came in and cooled things down. ? Did the candle help? Then a great descent into Aiani, with rain starting as I arrived.

    I asked two guys in the square for directions to my hotel. Instead they pulled up a chair, bought me a beer, then another, and we spent an hour trying to talk about Macedonia, Alexander the Great, Cleopatra and America.

    Tonight I’m back in the square. I asked for a menu. The guy said, “Gyros.” Apparently that was the menu.

    Bike touring is extremes. Parts of today were miserable. Right now, sitting here with a gyro and beer while the dogs and old guys hang around the square, it’s very good.    Les mer

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