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River Murray paddle
  • River Murray paddle

River Murray paddle

An attempt to paddle from Albury to Goolwa in +/- a couple of months Leer más
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    1Early morning on the river.
    Old style pump.1This is the "bitch and pups" a notorious section of the river in the old days due to shallow depth and snags. Gnarled tree.Another fantastic lunch spot!Red sandstone cliffs. The first I've seen. Very beautiful in the evening light.

    Day 25

    30 de marzo de 2022, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Distance 934 / 2195
    Next town Boundary Bend
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Again a super quiet day on the river with only 1 group of fishermen on the bank. Not a single boat. It did make me reflect on what might happen if I broke my leg, or worse, dropped my phone in the river!
    The weather Gods are still smiling with high 20's maximums and lows around 12 degree, together with tail winds. Perfect really. Have noticed a lot more flies around though. Hopefully this won't get worse as they are an absolute pest when you’re paddling.
    Should to get to Boundary Bend tomorrow if I can do another 40+ km day.
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    Typical view of the river in this area.
    Goats this time...A heron and an egret (I think)The Junction with the Murrumbidgee. Not as big as what I would have thought.Some little finches. I have been trying to photograph these for ages.They have a corolla problem in Boundary Bend just like everywhere else.

    Day 26

    31 de marzo de 2022, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Distance 978 / 2195
    Next town Robinvale
    4 days ahead of schedule

    Made it into Boundary Bend tonight after a long day's paddle with not much current and quite strong winds. Thankfully the caravan park had the butane gas I have been looking for, but no fresh water, so it's back to boiling river water.
    Passed the junction with the Murrumbidgee this afternoon. It seemed to be flowing quite well albeit with a lot of flotsam ( decomposed leaves and bark).
    The MDBA has an excellent website that shows all the main inflows and outflows along the river. Google "MDBA live data" then click on "system view" if you’reinterested. It shows what a highly regulated system it is.
    A few easy days coming up to get to Robinvale. Looking forward to that!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    This is an extract of The River Murray Charts that is my constant companion. Shows snags, distance markers, po
    Paddle steamer passing my camp this morning. Couldn't catch up to it.The river banks are usually either sand or clay. This is what the clay looks like...And this is what your feet look like after walking g through it :-(Typical view of the river here. Wide and sinuous.Lunch stop. An absolute cracker!Yes, yes, more pumps! 10 in one bank this time. Presumably providing water to the horticultural areas beyond.

    Day 27

    1 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Distance 1021 / 2195
    Next town Robinvale
    4 days ahead of schedule

    Turned out the thread on the gas cylinders was the wrong one, so I took them back to the Boundary Bend Store and they were good enough to refund. Amazing that a 4 pack of steel cylinders of butane gas cost $10.95, and 1.25 litres of water costs $6.50. How does that work!
    Still really quiet out here, no boats except a random paddle steamer this morning, no people and no internet.
    Clocked up the 1000kms this afternoon which is encouraging. Nearly halfway!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    Last night's camp at sunset.
    A couple of photogenic river red gums.Lots of weed in the river the last day or so.All my ducks in a row...Not sure if this is functional or not. Didn't investigate!Red sandstone cliffs at Tol Tol. Reminiscent of SA.Another great spot for tonight's camp .

    Day 28

    2 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Distance 1060 / 2195
    Next town Robinvale
    4 days ahead of schedule

    A nice relaxed days paddling today. I did contemplate pushing on to Robinvale (10kms away) to check out the Saturday night action but thought the better of it.
    No current in the river today as the Euston weir basically forms a lake behind it. This will be the situation the whole way through SA I think. Quite a lot of campers and fishers on the river today, to be expected I suppose being a Saturday.
    No internet for the last couple of days. Missing the morning news and being able to download podcasts. How dependent we become on technology!
    Robinvale Vale tomorrow and a search for camping gas. Fingers crossed, otherwise it's cold canned food until Mildura.
    RIP Dad who died 2 years ago today.
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    Apparently the largest windmill in the southern hemisphere. A Southern Cross, of course.JoJo's. If you're ever in Robinvale it's a must!The lift span of the old bridge re-purposed into a tourist attraction. Apparently they used to winch up the liThe new post tensioned concrete box girder bridge.A serious motor home!It rained last night and on anf off today :-(

    Day 29

    3 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Distance 1082 / 2195
    Next town Wemen
    4 days ahead of schedule

    An easy paddle into Robinvale caravan park this morning. Rest day tomorrow.
    Robinvale is a soldier settlement town and a sister city to Villers Bretonneux. Definitely not a tourist town! One IGA and 3 Asian Grocery stores in the main street. Had lunch at JoJo's fish'n'chips run by a Vietnamese family. Friendly, efficient service, good food and reasonable prices. An excellent example of how to run a takeaway business. Outof the 25 people there I was one of only 3 westerners.
    Located the right gas cannister (phew!) and got my phone working again after I think the Sim card got wet. All good now.
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    Approaching the Euston lock.
    Inside the lock chamber about halfway down to the lower river level.Lots of these egrets all along the river.Great colours and textures in the sandstone cliffs that are becoming more common.Another beautiful lunch stopAnother photogenic river red gum!

    Day 31

    5 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Distance 1120 / 2195
    Next town Wemen
    3 days ahead of schedule

    A quiet rest day in Robinvale yesterday, with a bit of kayak maintenance and cleaning, and lots of lazing around. Had some nice chats with various people including a guy from Gawler who is doing an around Australia trip on his motorbike.
    Went through the Euston lock this morning. A traumatic experience which hopefully I'll overcome with 10 more lockages to come! Expecting it to be very quiet between here and Mildura with the only civilisation being the General Store at Wemen over the next 5 or 6 days.
    Halfway home too!!!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    A fantastic campsite last night, all to myself.
    This Goat appeared to be stuck on a ledge. Hopefully he made his escape.An old log shearing shed near Wemen.The only sign on the river showing where the Wemen Store was.The access between the Wemen Store and the river. Glad I decided not to have that beer with lunch!If you’re ever in Wemen...I'm not really a rruck fan, but who wouldn't be impressed by this!My planned campsite tonight overrun with school kids. I pushed on...A massive pump system feeding water into Hattah Lakes as environmental flows.Lots of goats on the NSW side. I assume they are farmed and not feral as there are so many of them along the r

    Day 32

    6 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Distance 1161/ 2195
    Next town Mildura
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Another peaceful day on the river. Very few boats, but quite a few campers who are always on the Victorian side of the river where there is public access via the multitude of riverbank tracks. The advantage of being in a kayak is that you can always discreetly camp on the NSW side where it is more isolated and the campsites seem better.
    Stopped at Wemen for lunch. A little General Store in the middle of nowhere serving gourmet food. A nice bonus as Mildura is 4 days away.
    No internet out here so I'm listening to the Robbery Under Arms audiobook I've downloaded. Great story!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    A typical section of the river around here.
    No. Not me. This is the goat farmer.Not sure, but I think this may be a fish tracking station. The first one I've seen.2Unidentified bird. Not one we get in the Adelaide area.Hard to see from the photo but this is where the river has changed its course in the last 100 years or so. Cut

    Day 33

    7 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Distance 1215 / 2195
    Next town Mildura
    3 days ahead of schedule

    I think this stretch of the river is probably the best I have been through so far. Wide, a nice gentle current, very few people, lots of birds and plenty of sandy beaches for camping. No mobile reception unfortunately...
    Had a nice chat with a farmer whose property I had stopped on for lunch. He just happened to be driving past in his 4WD. His property is 100,000 acres with a 45 mile river frontage. Amazing! He runs 3000 goats as they are more profitable than sheep. The meat is mainly exported to the USA where it is commonly used as prison food.
    He was bemoaning the fact that a lot of the rivergums in the backwaters on his property are dieing as the MDBA never allow the river to flood as it would have done historically, so they send their roots deeper until they hit saline groundwater and then die. Always interesting to get a farmers perspective.
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    A couple of old barge wrecks.
    The largest red gum in NSW.A reverse tree hug.Different Ibis to the ones we're used toHard to see, but this was an ant trail about 75m long leading to a piece of dead carp about the size of a $5 nOne of several eagle nests seen today.

    Day 34

    8 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Distance 1254/ 2195
    Next town Mildura
    3 days ahead of schedule

    More people on the riverbank today, always on the Victorian (public access) side. Not sure if this is because it’s a Friday or maybe a pre- Easter build up. Quite cool today so I had my thermal top and beanie on until lunchtime. A portent of things to come I think.
    Found what is meant to be the largest red gum in NSW. Not sure how they know this, but it was impressive.
    What I thought was a mobile coverage blackspot turned out again to be moisture in the SIM card. Must get that sorted out.
    Looking forward to getting to Mildura on Sunday for a day off and replenishing the wine stocks which are dangerously low.
    Heading to bed now at about 6pm!
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    Kerribee Station homestead
    Lots of spectacular red sandstone cliffsRenovation opportunity!A sure sign we're near a big town!Cliffs opposite tonight's camp site. Shame about the power lines.

    Day 35

    9 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Distance 1294 / 2195
    Next town Mildura
    4 days ahead of schedule

    Even more people and boats around today. If this is what it's like on a weekend I can't imagine what Easter will be like. Hopefully I'll be well clear of civilisation by then.
    20 or 30 kms upstream from a weir (eg Mildura), the current drops away to nothing and the river level builds up 2 or 3 metres from its original level because it’s dammed up by the weir. This means all the nice sandy beaches are underwater so good camp sites are hard to find. Tonight's definitely not good. Mildura tomorrow. Phew!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    1Sorry, more cliffs! This is Redcliffs where a policeman sadly died yesterday
    A mega nest presumably built by an eagle.This ski boat must have been going 100km/h plus.The old and new Mildura pump stations. The pumps are about the size of a small car!Black swans.1One of the many amazing riverfront houses and gardens in Gol Gol near Mildura.Some of the many tourist paddlesteamers.The Mildura / Buronga bridge. No lift span required!

    Day 36

    10 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Distance 1320 / 2195
    Next town Wentworth
    4 days ahead of schedule

    A long, but interesting morning paddle into Mildura. Lots of activity on the river with high speed skiers, a multitude of houseboats and fancy riverfront houses to gawk at. Actually staying in the caravan park at Buronga which is the twin town of Mildura hence involving a half hour walk into Mildura across the bridge. Good to be exercising some different muscles!
    Sadly the famed Mildura restaurant Stefanos is closed Sunday, but I doubt I would have gained entry anyway in my shorts and thongs. Having a duck and mushroom pasta at the Grand Hotel instead. Mildura does seem to have a pleasant country feel about it despite its size.
    Rest day tomorrow, then the long stretch into Renmark.
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    WB Chaffeys house. Their young infant son drowned in the fountain. Mrs Chaffey would not allow any water in it
    Chaffeys study (was it called that back then? Not sureOne of the many stained glass windows, all imported from England.The detail in the etchings quite amazing.This is how they used to open the lock gates at Lock 11 in Mildura until 1970!Could be a spelling error there, but a classic name nonetheless!Chaffey Bros. first steam engine, designed by George Chaffey, built in Birmingham and somehow transported to MSome brilliantly coloured red plants in a scented garden.Apparently the area around Mildura was an inhospitable dustbowl prior to white settlement. Amazing what abunda

    Day 37

    11 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Distance 1320 / 2195
    Next town Wentworth
    3 days ahead of schedule

    An interesting day traipsing around Mildura. Rio Vista, WB Chaffeys house built in the 1880's was a highlight, together with my big breakfast.Leer más

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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    The Mildura foreshore.
    The backside of Mildara Winery. No time to stop...A heron or darter I think. Lots of them all along the river.Yes, more cliffs!Abbotsford bridge near Wentwort, built in 1927.23 Eastern greys.3An interesting tree which wouldn't look out of place in a Modern Art gallery

    Day 38

    12 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Distance 1375/ 2195
    Next town Old Customs House
    4 days ahead of schedule

    Made it from Mildura to Wentworth today after taking advantage of a "cutting" where the river has found a new shorter course since it was first surveyed. This saved about 9kms.
    Wentworth is on the junction of the Murray and Darling rivers. The Darling water is an opaque grey white colour quite different to the grey brown of the Murray.
    I wondered about scores, if not hundreds of one man tents along the riverbank near Mildura. A guy in the caravan park said these are "placeholders" for Easter where people stake their claim for the best spots!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    Roos everywhere here. Even near the centre of Wentworth.
    The junction of the Darling and Murray. You can the the marked difference in the colour of the water.Part of a large park on the riverbank at Wentworth.Someone's dream home in the middle of nowhere!

    Day 39

    13 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Distance 1410 / 2195
    Next town Old Customs House
    4 days ahead of schedule

    Had a look around Wentworth this morning. There are signs of it once having been a thriving town, but it seems well past its heyday now.
    Went through Lock 10 this morning with lots of locks between here and Renmark which means minimal current to push me along. Going to be a struggle to keep up with the itinerary from now on I think. In preparing the itinerary, my thought was that I would be super fit and strong by the time I reached SA (!) hence I increased the daily mileage targets. The reality is that I seem to be running low on energy each day probably due to calorie deficit so the distances will probably decrease. Keep telling myself it's not a race!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    Some emus strolling around quite tamely near the te t this morning.
    The river is straight and wide in this area. This part at least 300m wide.What's left of the barge "Emerald". That's duckweed not grass in the foreground.1Moorna Homestead. Quite magnificent!

    Day 40

    14 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Distance 1447 / 2195
    Next town Old Customs House
    3 days ahead of schedule

    The Easter buildup is in full swing with lots of cars and caravans already set up on the riverbank. Thankfully they are all on the Victorian side which has a myriad of public tracks along the river whereas I can camp on the NSW side which is only accessible by boat.
    The middle joint of all my fingers are quite painful at night, might be RSI from holding the paddle shaft for 5 or 6 hours a day. No problem when I'm actually paddling strangely...
    Went through Lock 9 today with more locks coming up. About 2/3 of the way home!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    Sunrise on the river. I went back to bed after taking the photo...
    1Some of the beautiful red gum forest which would have been destroyed if the Chowilla Dam had gone ahead. It wa1Made me feel like a professional kayaker!!Nice quiet spot for tonight's camp

    Day 41

    15 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Distance 1486 / 2195
    Next town Old Custons House
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Happy Easter to all! I hope you’re making the most of this beautiful autumn weather. Had a nice, unexpected chat with the family a minute ago, devouring their hot cross buns while I am now devouring my 2 min noodles/ vege / tuna combo!
    Not as busy on the river today as I was expecting, I suppose as it's a long way to get to from any major town or city.
    Looking forward to getting to Renmark in 3 or 4 days for some r'n'r.
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    First light on the river. Completely calm.
    Rufus Reach. A long straight and wide section of the river.Part of Murray Sunset NP.A group of cormorants (?) having g a rest.This is where Rufus River which comes from Lake Victoria feeds into the Murray. Apparently water can be divertCliffs near Lake Victoria Station.Another big gnarled RRG!

    Day 42

    16 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Distance 1523 / 2195
    Next town Old Customs House
    3 days ahead of schedule

    Another beautiful autumn day with sunny skies and light winds. I have been so lucky with the weather, but I think that may be about to change.
    Went through Lock 7 this morning where the Lockmaster was kind enough to give me 4 x 600ml bottles of cold mineral water after I told him I was running out of water. It was interesting that the water level difference across the weir was only about 0.3m compared to 6m+ up near Albury. Shows how flat this part of the country is. Should be into SA tomorrow if things go to plan.
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    Approaching Devils Elbow, a notorious bend on the river.
    The cliffs at Devils Elbow. Spectacular!Just can’t get enough of these beautiful cliffs!A spectacular sign welcoming you to SA!And another!The spectacular Border Cliffs with a fish tracking station in the foreground.

    Day 43

    17 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Distance 1571 / 2195
    Next town Renmark
    4 days ahead of schedule

    Tough day today with 42kms into a north westerly headwind. I was determined to make it to Old Customs House on the SA border for a late afternoon hot meat pie and cold beer. When I got there of course it was closed for a private function and full of teens with wake boats and jetskis. Oh joy!
    Also got a hole in the air mattress last night (sorry John) from a spiky stick or something under the tent. Tried repairing it with duct tape in the middle of the night to no avail. I am experimenting with placing lots of leaves and bark under the tent together with my blanket under the deflated mat for extra padding. Seems OK so far.
    Just starting to rain now. One of the small pleasures of camping is feeling snug in your sleeping bag on a rainy and windy night!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    The spectacular Heading Cliffs near Renmark
    And again...Not sure what a "field and game association" does, but this is their clubrooms.The Japanese were interned here somewhere during WW2. I think local Germans and Italians were interned in the Renmark riverfront.PS Industry, one of a few riverboats along the wharf.

    Day 44 / 45

    19 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Distance 1640 / 2195
    Next town Berri
    4 days ahead of schedule

    A brutal day today with 5 1/2 hours non stop paddling just to get the 33kms into Renmark. 25km/h head winds most of the way, a steep chop and constant drizzle all morning. Packing up the sodden camp in the cold this morning after constant overnight rain was pretty miserable too. Apart from that, things are going OK and I'm looking forward to a days break.
    Went into Renmark this afternoon for a long awaited cold beer and pub meal. Very nice.
    The caravan park here is enormous with an outdoor cinema, resort pool, gym, yoga room on 20 something acres along the river!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    The iconic Renmark Hotel
    Good to see some Purple Swamphens.Lots of fancy houses up near Ral Rall CreekThis is one of the original Chaffey pumps driven by the steam engine seen in MilduraThe MRQ1Alfresco brunch at the Renmark Club.

    Day 46

    20 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Distance 1639 / 2195
    Next town Berri
    3 days ahead of schedule

    A nice relaxing day checking out the local sights in Renmark. A chicken burger at the Renmark Hotel last night, a big breakfast at the Renmark Club this morning and pizza at the Char and Grill tonight. Hopefully I won't sink the kayak with all the food I've eaten.
    The Renmark Hotel is interesting. Went to the museum they have on the first floor. Apparently the Chaffey Brothers insisted on a "dry" workforce, but in the end they relented due to the proliferation of sly grog setups, and the Renmark Hotel became the first "community owned" hotel in the British Empire. It had the longest bar in the southern hemisphere at 205 feet with 20 taps, and the main bar became known as "Breakers Bar" as apparently Breaker Morant rode his horse into the bar! The first licensee was woman (Jane Meissner) in a time when women weren't even allowed in bars.
    Looking forward now to getting back on the river tomorrow.
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    The Paringa bridge. Might be the last of the lift span bridges I'll see I think.
    What I thought was a fish Tracker is actually a salinity recorder.A canoe tree (I think).Had to stop for the Lyrup ferry.Magnificent cliffs in abundance around here.And again...

    Day 47

    21 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Distance 1678 / 2195
    Next town Berri
    2 days ahead of schedule

    A nice paddle today between Renmark and Berri. Nice and quiet, wide river and interesting cliffs.
    Went through Lock 5 this morning roughly where Pat F and I started a river trip in a second hand Canadian canoe in about 1980 ending up near Bowhill after 2 weeks. Might call in to the Berri Hotel Motel in the morning to see if that coffee table Space Invaders game is still there!
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  • River Murray paddleRiver Murray paddleViajero
    Not a very good photo, but you can just see one of the possums disappearing.
    Berri Hotel. Looks nothing like it did 40 years ago unsurprisingly.Berri bridge.A crane barge at Berri.The water flow indicator in Lock 4 showing SA is getting about double their minimum entitlement.2An old sand washing plant where I had lunch today.More wildlife. An outsized white swan!Loxton irrigation pumping station. Must have had an Architect on board for this one!

    Day 48

    22 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Distance 1715 / 2195
    Next town Moorook
    2 days ahead of schedule

    Another nice quiet day on the river with very few boats or people. Had a chat along the river with 2 couples in their early seventies in double kayaks doing Renmark to Morgan. Shows it's never too late!
    Heard scrabbling noises next to my tent late last night. Upon inspection it was 2 brush tailed possums who had found my salted peanuts in a zip lock bag, chewed the bag open and ate about half a cup of peanuts. Hope it gave them indigestion!
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    One of the motor cruisers heading for Goolwa.
    A beautiful old homestead atop the cliffs near Loxton.And a modern version. They all seem to look the same!2 Little Eagles.7 mile reach near Moorook. A real slog!

    Day 49

    23 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Distance 1752 / 2195
    Next town Cobdogla
    2 days ahead of schedule

    Really quiet again today on the river considering it is a long weekend, with only a group of 3 river cruisers seen all day. If you wanted a quiet spot for a houseboat trip, anywhere around here would be ideal.
    Bit of drama last night with some deranged man on the other side of the river in a campervan shouting at full volume "f... this" and "f... that" while it sounded like he was beating the side of his van with his fists. This went on for about an hour. Surprised no one called the police as it was pretty scary. He then put on a Cat Stevens album at max volume and was singing along to it in a totally out of tune voice. Played the same one 3 times! Seemed to calm him down. He then brought out his electric guitar and was playing that (badly) again at max volume on his amp. Eventually went quiet about midnight. He would have been 500m from me and it was super loud. I hate to think what it was like for the campers 50m or so away from him!
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    Sunrise at last night's camp.
    Royal SpoonbillsThe first sailboat I've seen so far.1The Humphrey Pump at Cobdogla.Kingston on Murray Bridge.Amazing how trees are able to grow on a sheer cliff face!

    Day 50

    24 de abril de 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Distance 1791 / 2195
    Next town Waikerie
    2 days ahead of schedule

    Lots of small towns in this area - New Residence, Moorook, Cobdogla, Kingston on Murray and Overland Corner. Called into Moorook to resupply. The General Store there doesn't look any different to what it did 40 years ago. Fitting also being in Moorook on the Anzac Day LWE given Grandpa was granted a Soldier Settlement block in Moorook and then lived most of his life their after having fought at Gallipoli and the Western Front.
    Had a head cold for the last couple of days (pretty sure it's not Covid), apart from that all going well.
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