Bella Italia 2018

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Bella Italia 2018
Campanile di San Marco, Venice
September 14, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
Although we hadn’t planned to visit the Campanile di San Marco, St Mark’s Campanile, we decided to take advantage of the short line-up while we were there and check it out. This is the bell tower of St Mark's Basilica and is located in the Piazza San Marco. It is one of the most recognizable symbols of the city.

The tower is 98.6 metres tall and houses five bells. The belfry is topped by a cube, alternate faces of which show the Lion of St. Mark and the female representation of Venice, la Giustizia: Justice. The tower is capped by a pyramidal spire, at the top of which sits a golden weathervane in the form of the archangel Gabriel.

The initial 9th-century construction was built on Roman foundations and was used as a watch tower or lighthouse for the dock, which then occupied a substantial part of the area which is now the Piazzetta.

The Campanile suffered damage by lightning on many occasions. It was severely damaged in 1388, set on fire and destroyed in 1417 and seriously damaged by another fire in 1489 that destroyed the wooden spire. It was rebuilt in 1514 thanks to restorations made to repair further damage caused by an earthquake in 1511. The current tower was reconstructed in its present form in 1912 after it had been destroyed by the fall of the Campanile in 1902.

Thankfully we didn’t have to climb any stairs to get to the top and the elevator was quick and easy. The views were amazing from every side. I really love Venice and seeing her in all her glory was fabulous.Read more
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Bella Italia 2018
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi Terrace, Venice
September 14, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Last time we were in Venice we found out about being able to visit the terrace on top of the elite shopping centre, T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Unfortunately we found out towards the end of our time in Venice and when we tried to visit on the last morning the line was so long we didn’t get to check it out.

This almost happened again this visit. We tried to visit in the morning but when we got there we found out it was closed for a private event. We were told the event would finish at midday but when we returned it was still going and the security guy had no idea when it would finish. We waited for bit and then decided to try again later if we had time.

At the end of the day on our way home we thought we would give it one last try - SUCCESS. We were finally able to check out the view of Venice from the terrace. Unfortunately due to the heat it was very hazy and the view wasn’t as clear as we would have liked, but it was still an amazing view - a very close up view of the famous Rialto Bridge. Our persistence paid off.

The actual shopping centre is also pretty cool, from the red escalators to the amazing internal view of the four floors. The other cool thing was actually the entrance to the terrace. They have started created patterns on the floor using postage stamps which they have then added a clear floor over the designs. It would be amazing to see it when the project is finished. It was great to finally get to visit the terrace.Read more
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Bella Italia 2018
Trattoria Alla Palazzina, Venice
September 14, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 26 °C
We ended our day at a lovely restaurant just around the corner from where we are staying. We needed somewhere close to home so we wouldn’t have to walk far. And I had been hanging out for authentic Italian gnocchi since our last visit to Italy.

Unfortunately I was very disappointed with my meal, it tasted like little potato pellets with tin tomato sauce. Brad on the other hand was exceptionally pleased with his seafood pasta, piled high with fresh seafood. He was not disappointed at all. The biggest thing for the night was Brad actually ordered a glass of wine with his meal - first time ever!!

We sat out in the lovely garden bar, Brad enjoyed his meal, we both enjoyed the Italian wine, and we really enjoyed the slightly cooler temperatures.Read more
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Bella Italia 2018
The Cappella degli Scrovegni, Padua
September 15, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
In my research of things to experience and see in Italy I came across the Scrovegni Chapel in Padova, Padua. It looked amazing and so close to Venice that it was worth a trip to see it.

The Cappella degli Scrovegni, the Scrovegni Chapel (also known as the Arena Chapel), is a small church, adjacent to the Augustinian monastery, the Monastero degli Eremitani in Padua. The chapel and monastery are now part of the complex of the Museo Civico of Padua. The chapel contains a fresco cycle by Giotto, completed about 1305 and considered to be an important masterpiece of Western art.

The chapel was built in 1305 by wealthy Italian banker Enrico Scrovegni. The young Scrovegni’s father had been a notorious userer, or purveyor of bad loans, charging so much interest as to crush those that owed him money. At the time this practice was considered so vile as to end someone’s soul in hell. Scrovegni’s father was so well-known for his illegal interest that he is even name-checked in Dante’s Divine Comedy as one of the souls in the Seventh Circle of Hell.

The Scrovegni Chapel was built as a measure to atone for his father’s sins, and while the building itself is architecturally unremarkable, Scrovegni was able to retain the services of one of the most renowned artists of the time to decorate the interior. And the result is truly breathtaking. The largest element is extensive cycles showing the Life of Christ and the Life of the Virgin. The wall at the rear of the church, through which the chapel is entered, has a large Last Judgement. There are also panels in grisaille (monochrome) showing the Vices and Virtues.

Like the Last Supper in Milan, the Scrovegni Chapel can only be visited under strict guidelines in order to protect this amazing work of art. We were unaware that we needed to prebook and were lucky enough to show up when there was a place available.

The vivid colours, the stories told in the frescos, the beauty and depth of the “heavenly” combined with the “hellish” pieces, the contrasts, even the feeling whilst standing in the Chapel, all of it really made an impact on me. It was definitely worth the trip and is a place I will always remember.Read more
TravelerVery beautiful
11/20/18Reply
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Bella Italia 2018
Eremitani Museum, Padua
September 15, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
We aren't huge fans of museums and they are not on the top of our "Things to See" list, but the Eremitani Museum was included with our ticket to see the Cappella degli Scrovegni (Scrovegni Chapel) so we decided to have a wander around before we left. And I must say I was glad we did.

The Museum is a complex of museums and historic sites, centered around the former convent of the Eremitani and its famous Cappella degli Scrovegni. Not only does it include the chapel, it has nineteen rooms filled with objects dating back to 6th Century BC, a lapidary displaying architectural finds, and a sculpture park filled with contemporary art.

I am still amazed at the age of the items they have on display and the history surrounding them. History was not one of my favourite subjects at school but my interest has certainly be piqued over here. The museum was very well laid out and very informative. From glass bottles, pottery, gems, funerary outfits, some Egyptian finds, mosaics, small bronze statues to larger statues, funerary steles and cult inspired pieces, this museum has so many items of interest. I think the most fascinating of all to me was the skeleton of a man buried with his horse and learning of the importance of this. It was very interesting.

Of course one of my favourite areas was the courtyard featuring the contemporary sculpture art. I was missing Swell at home and this was a great replacement. The contrast from the historical items inside to the modern outside was a great juxtaposition.Read more
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Bella Italia 2018
La Rochetti Mattei, Riola
September 16, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
We had an earlier start today as our destination, Rocchetta Mattei, located in the small town of Riola, was over 3 ½ hours by train from Venice. But this was a must see for me and I was hoping the trip would be worth it. We arrived in Riola to discover it was indeed a very small town and being a Sunday, there were no buses or taxis to take us to the castle. So we had a bit of a walk ahead of us. While it was a steep 25 minute walk, the view of the Italian countryside was breathtaking and I think the walk was worth it.

Rocchetta Mattei is a surreal fortress built by a mad inventor, sitting on an Italian hilltop in what feels like the middle of nowhere. Even from the outside, the looming fortress looks like a cobbled together hodge podge of architectural influences, and the interior is even crazier thanks to the castle’s more-than-a-little eccentric creator Cesare Mattei.

Since almost 1200 there has been a fortress sitting on the scenic hilltop in the Northern Apennines where the Rocchetta Mattei now stands. Construction of the current castle began in 1850 at the behest of Count Cesare Mattei, a slightly unhinged, self-taught medicine man and politician who is best known as the father of “electrohomeopathy”. He had developed his own system of healing that he said harnessed the life energy (electricity) of plants to heal all of Man’s ills, including cancer. Envisioning his castle as the home of his medical revolution, Mattei constructed the “Rocchetta,” as he called it, with the enthusiasm and focus of a child and he simply seemed to create the rooms as whims came to him.

The fusion of different architectural styles makes the Rocchetta a mesmeric and fantastic place, full of small rooms very expertly decorated and linked together by a labyrinthine plan mixed together with lodges, spiral staircases and towers. Quite a few of the rooms or spaces are reproductions of real places Mattei had visited. Il Cortile dei Leoni, The Lions’ Courtyard, is a reproduction of the courtyard of the Alhambra of Granada in Spain, and the chapel was built like the Cathedral of Cordoba, also in Spain. The attention to all the details is what makes this place so amazing and interesting. Mattei liked to play tricks on the eye with his designs, often building features from fake or disguised materials such as painted “stained glass”, fake marble arches, wooden steps and railings made from stone or cement. As the guide pointed out many of these tricks we were so impressed by the ingenuity of the designs.

Cesare Mattei led a bizarre life and gained worldwide fame due to his treatments. He never got married and adopted a young administrator, Mario Venturoli as his son who he later disinherited because he suspected his wife of trying to poison him. He spent his later years paranoid and isolated in one of the turrets with a draw bridge lifted, certain that everyone was trying to kill him. He passed away at the age of 87 and is interred onsite in a coffin decorated using decoupage in the black and white arched room.

After his death the castle changed hands a number of times and was even once donated to the City of Bologna who declined the bizarre gift. By the 1980s the castle was completely abandoned and falling into disrepair. However, an independent conservation group took control of the site in the 2000s and began repairing the site, opening some of it to the public.

Mattei’s electrohomeopathy is still practiced in some corners of the world such as India and Pakistan, but the true testament to Mattei’s genius/madness may be his beloved Rocchetta.

"There are no rules of architecture for a castle in the clouds" G. K. Chesterton

I absolutely loved this place and the tour, and just wish we could have spent some free time exploring the rooms after the tour was over. The place was mesmerising, intriguing and left me wanting to know more. It was worth the train trip from Venice.Read more
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Bella Italia 2018
Bridge of Sighs, Venice
September 17, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
The Bridge of Sighs, known as Ponte dei Sospiri in Italian, is one of the most famous bridges, not only in Venice, but in the world. And a trip to Venice must include a glimpse of this noteworthy bridge so we made sure to see it on our way out today.

The enclosed bridge is made of white limestone, has windows with stone bars, and passes over the Rio di Palazzo, connecting the New Prison (Prigioni Nuove) to the interrogation rooms in the Doge's Palace. It was designed by Antonio Contino (whose uncle Antonio da Ponte had designed the Rialto Bridge) and was built in 1600.

The bridge’s name, given by Lord Bryon as a Translation from the Italian name in the 19th century, comes from the suggestion that prisoners would sigh at their final view of beautiful Venice through the window before being taken down to their cells.Read more
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Basilica di San Marco, Venice
September 17, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
After a couple of failed attempts when we just couldn’t get our timings right, we finally managed to see inside the Basilica di San Marco, Saint Mark’s Cathedral. Even though we got to the Piazza early a line had already started forming, but thankfully we were still early enough that we didn’t have too long to wait.

The Basilica di San Marco is the most famous of Venice’s churches and was originally the chapel of the Doge. It became the city’s cathedral in 1807. The first St Mark’s Basilica was built in the 9th century to house very sacred relics, relics that had been stolen by merchants from Venice. In 828, they stole the body of Saint Mark the Evangelist, one of the four Apostles, from Alexandria, Egypt. Story has it that while at sea, the graverobbers and their precious cargo were almost drowned by raging storms. However, St. Mark himself appeared to the captain and told him to lower the sails and the ship was saved.

The original church was burned in a rebellion in 976 and restored or rebuilt in 978. The present basilica was constructed in 1063 and while the basic structure of the building has not been altered much, the decoration and façade has changed greatly over time, to be the beautiful and elaborate building it is today.

One thing we did find disappointing was the fact it was a very regimented walk through the interior of the building, and no photos were allowed. It was so beautiful inside and it was a real pity we could not photograph it.

Unlike most Italian churches, San Marco never made the transition to fresco wall painting and is mostly covered in mosaics. This was probably partly due to a wish to support the local Murano glass industry, which supplied the tesserae. The upper levels of the interior are completely covered with bright mosaics, covering an area of about 8000 square metres, done over eight centuries, mostly in gold, and it is breathtaking.

There are more than 500 columns, dating between the 6th and 11th centuries, each one elaborately decorated. And the marble inlay in rich earth tones cover 2099 square metres of the floor in intricate geometrical and natural patterns. It was almost sensory overload with so much to admire.

One of the highlights was going up to the top of the Cathedral and being able to stand outside on the gallery over the main entrance, next to the four famous horses, overlooking the Piazza, although the ones on the terrace now are copies with the originals being displayed inside the Museum.

It was fantastic to finally see inside this famous church and see what all the fuss was about. I just wish we could have wandered around a bit more to fully admire everything without feeling the pressure from the line to move on. Another tick off the bucket list.Read more
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Burano, Venice
September 17, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Even though we visited Burano and Murano last time we were in Venice, I really wanted to go again as they were two of the highlights last year. And Burano was as pretty as I remembered, if not prettier. Less people and bright blue skies made for a very memorable day.

We enjoyed a stroll around the island, admiring and photographing the very cute colourful houses, Burano’s main eye-catcher. Burano is an island where a lot of fishermen used to live. According to a local legend they chose to paint their houses in different colors so that they could see them from far away while they were fishing. That way they could always get home safely in case of dense fog.

Fun facts about Burano:

Burano was very important in the sixteenth century because of its refined lace production. The best known user of this lace was undoubtedly Leonardo da Vinci, who used it for the main altar of the Duomo of Milan.

If a resident of Burano wants to paint his or her house, they must submit a special request to the government. Then they get a number of colors available from which they can choose.

In total, almost 3000 people live in Burano. Not much if you know that the total number of inhabitants of Venice and the surrounding islands is about 60,000.

I loved that we revisited this beautiful island and after wandering around we sat and enjoyed a very delicious meal while we chatted to some Aussies sat at the table next to us. We would happily visit again.Read more
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Murano, Venice
September 17, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
After a lovely time spent at Burano we stopped by Murano on our way back to Venice. The island of Murano is renowned for its long tradition of glass-making and is always worth a visit.

Murano is a series of islands linked by bridges in the Venetian Lagoon, northern Italy. It lies about 1.5 kilometres north of Venice and measures about 1.5 km across with a population of just over 5,000.

We enjoyed strolling along the waterways, doing some window shopping while admiring the amazing glass works on display. There are some truely talented artists creating breathtaking works of art. If only I were rich and had excess luggage - I would have bought up big.

And by chance we came across the huge glass sculpture that I just love. Titled "Comet Glass Star", it was created by master glassmaker Simone Cenedese and was assembled from 500 blown glass elements in six colours and a variety of sizes. The vivid blues and the sheer size is what makes this piece so interesting. I’m glad we found it again on this visit.

It has been a wonderful day exploring the islands of Venice.Read more
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Ponte di Rialto, Venice
September 17, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
One of my favourite iconic monuments in Venice is the Rialto Bridge. I fell in love with it on our last trip, when we were lucky enough to be staying in one of the buildings that supports the bridge. I love the hustle and bustle, but also the quiet times before the rest of the tourist arrive. I love the gondoliers with their elaborate gondolas waiting along the canal and I love the buildings and restaurants that line the bank, all with view of this iconic bridge.

It is the oldest of the four bridges spanning the Grand Canal and has been rebuilt several times since its first construction as a pontoon bridge in the 12th century. The present stone bridge was finally completed in 1591.

I don't know that I would call it beautiful but there is something about the Rialto Bridge that I just love.Read more
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Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre
September 18, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
We said good-bye to Venice today and made our way to Riomaggiore by way of three separate train trips. After a busy start to our trip we were looking forward to relaxing and exploring the Cinque Terre area. We weren't planning to do the well-known hikes between the villages, as it was way too hot and we had already walked enough, this was just going to be some much needed down time.

One thing I did not realise when choosing to stay at Riomaggiore was how bloody steep it was. It was exhausting just finding our way to our accommodation every day! But in saying that it was a lovely little village and our accommodation was amazing.

Riomaggiore is the first of the five fishing villages of Cinque Terre as you leave La Spezia. It dates back to the early 8th century and is known for its historic character and its wine, and is well recognised by the vivid red tower house built on the edge of the marina. With only one main "street", it is a maze of pedestrian lanes, archways and stairs, lots and lots of stairs.

What I loved about Riomaggiore was in fact how small and contained it was, the colourful tower houses, the cafes and shops, and the general vibe of the place. And I loved seeing the Italian nonnas and nonnos watching out of their windows or just sat on their terraces overlooking life below. Quintessential Italian.

While I don't know that I would choose to stay in Riomaggiore again, mainly due to the steepness of just walking anywhere, I am so glad we chose to stay this time and loved our time here.Read more
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Cantina del Pescatore - Riomaggiore
September 18, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
Once we finally made it to our accommodation, we were impressed - not with the amount of steep stairs we had to climb, but the room itself.

We are staying in a renovated wine cellar built in the 900s and it has been renovated in such a cool way. One wall near the bed still has the mountain wall showing through it and the other stone walls and wooden ceiling are all original. It has a real charm about it and has been so well equipped!

Our best accommodation so far! And definitely worth the climb of the many steep, old and crumbly steps.Read more
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Monterosso al Mare, Cinque Terre
September 19, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
We enjoyed a very relaxing day today at Monterosso al Mare, the most northern of the five fishing villages that make up Cinque Terre. It is also the largest of the five towns and has the only long and sandy beach in the area where you can rent chairs and umbrellas, and that is exactly what we did.

We took the train first thing this morning and enjoyed a delicious and surprisingly inexpensive breakfast in the cafe overlooking the glorious blue and turquoise ocean. The perfect way to start our relaxing day.

We then had the choice of the private beach or public beach, both of which you still had to pay for, but research had indicated that it was worth paying for the private beach and its better amenities, so that was what we decided to do. And I have to say it was the best €20 we have spent so far. For €20 we got two sun loungers, an umbrella and use of the clean beach hut/changing rooms and facilities. And the loungers were ours all day.

The beach was not sand but rocks, and it was a bit difficult to walk on as you sink into the loose pebbles, but that was the only negative. And even that became a positive because it meant no sandy towels to take home. The water was amazing, calm and crystal clear. You could see the rocky bottom and the fish as they came up to nibble on your feet. Words cannot describe just how fabulous it looked and felt. We spent well over two hours just drifting in the sea.

And the extra bonus was that for some reason, even though we spent almost the entire day in the water and sun we did not get sunburnt. Loving this Italian sun.

As the chairs are all lined up after a couple of hours we got some neighbours, a lovely couple from the States and we spent some more time floating in the ocean chatting away, sharing experiences. It was perfect!! We don’t know how we got so lucky to be able to experience this.

Leaving our towels on our lounges we went back up to the cafe and enjoyed a light and delicious lunch at our ocean view table, we then strolled into the town for a wander around, I took a few photos of the cute decor (of course) and then we returned to our chairs on the beach where Brad enjoyed another swim.

We decided on takeaway pizza and Prosecco for dinner to end our day of relaxation.Read more
TravelerR & R days are underrated 😊
9/20/18Reply
TravelerAgreed. You can do too much and overdo it that’s for sure. I think Deb has planned the right balance.
9/20/18Reply
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Bella Italia 2018
San Pietro Church, Portovenere
September 20, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Today we took the ferry to Portovenere to check out the town and the San Pietro Church, the Church of Saint Peter. The ferry is such a great way to see the coastline and we were very lucky that it wasn't full as we got great seats on top to admire the view. It amazes me how some of the houses on the steep hillsides are even built and how on earth people get to them, especially when we couldn't see any visible roads.

The Church of Saint Peter is the first thing you see as you come into Portovenere on the ferry, as it is built on the cliff above the sea, in the Gulf of the Poets, also known as the Gulf of La Spezia. Built in 1198 over what was left of an ancient pagan temple, Saint Peter’s was probably completed between 1256 and 1277, when its distinctive black-and-white striped body was erected. Then, from the 15th century on, fires and ransacking caused great damage to the structure, until it was fully renovated in the 1930s. The church’s striped body made from black rock and white marble makes it an eye-catching monument.

The bronze doors decorated with different figures make for a striking entrance and the dark naves give the church a very solemn feel. It certainly isn’t elaborately decorated like many of the churches we have seen and, in this case, the exterior was more striking than the interior. The view from the outside terrace to the sea is amazing, especially on such a clear day as today.

While the church isn't big, it was nice to have been able to visit it.Read more
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Byron Grotto, Portovenere
September 20, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Just next to the church and visible through the many arched windows in the wall, is the famous Byron Grotto, the inspiration of Lord Byron. It is recorded that the immortal poet, a daring swimmer, defied the waves of the sea from Portovenere to Lerici.

These magic landscapes were of great inspiration for many poets, especially the English Romantics. Among them, Lord Byron who lived between the Gulf of Poets and loved especially Portovenere. It was for this reason that the incredibly beautiful grotto was dedicated to him, and the Byron Grotto is one of the landmarks for spectacular international diving championships.

Although now partially collapsed, the walk down the steep rock steps on the side of the cliff was worth it just to admire the surrounding scenery, the turquoise crystal clear water against the sheer cliff with its layers of stone. The views out to sea and back up the cliff towards the church and castle were equally impressive. We just wished we had brought our togs so we could have enjoyed a swim here.Read more
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Bella Italia 2018
Portovenere
September 20, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
After checking out the church and the bay we wandered back into Portovenere to explore the town. Portovenere is the first stop on the ferry going from La Spezia to the Cinque Terre villages and while it is not part of the Cinque Terre it is still a beautiful place to visit and spend a few hours.

We enjoyed a bit of sightseeing via the sea front and then strolled through the back streets admiring the many beautiful doors and decorations. Such a pretty town to stroll through.

We used just enough energy to warrant a refreshing drink by the sea before returning to Riomaggiore. I loved the coloured buildings, the quirky touches (a curtain made out of pasta for the pasta shop), the fishing references, the men selling hats (and yes it worked because I bought one), the many cafes and restaurants that were beautifully laid out, and the general vibe of the place. An easy day to relax and enjoy the atmosphere.Read more
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Vernazza, Cinque Terre
September 21, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Today we decided to visit one of the other fishing villages before returning to Monterosso al Mare for another day of relaxing on the beach. A bit of research showed that Vernazza was one of the prettiest and most photographed of the five villages, especially around sunrise.

So after an early rise we caught the train to Vernazza and started the hike up to the best vantage point to capture the colourful buildings surrounding the small marina. Only thing we didn’t account for was the position of the marina in comparison to the sun rising behind the mountain, stopping the sunrise from lighting the marina for some time.

Because we were there so early it was nice to walk the empty streets before the crowds descended for the day. It is a town filled with history. The first records recognizing Vernazza as a fortified town date to 1080. It was a likely point of departure for naval forces in defence of pirates.

In 1997, the Cinque Terre was recognised as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and in 1999 the National Park of the Cinque Terre was created. Today the main source of revenue for Vernazza is tourism. However, as a testimony to the strength of centuries-old tradition, fishing, wine and olive oil production still continue.

On 25 October 2011, Vernazza was struck by torrential rains, massive flooding, and mudslides affecting not only Cinque Terre, but the surrounding province of Lunigiana. The flood left the town buried in over 4 metres of mud and debris (submerging even the train station in mud), causing over 100 million euro worth of damage. The town was evacuated and remained in a state of emergency for many months.

After taking the odd photos or two (code for many) we decided we weren’t going to wait around for the full sun as our beach chairs were calling us from Monterosso al Mare. Vernazza is a lovely town and one I would love to visit and photograph again.Read more
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Bella Italia 2018
Monterosso al Mare, Cinque Terre - Pt 2
September 21, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
We enjoyed Monterosso al Mare so much the first time, we just had to come back again. We couldn’t think of a better way to relax for the day before hitting the ‘road’ (trains) again. So after a quick detour to check out Vernazza we returned to enjoy another delicious breakfast at the same place we visited two days ago. Why try somewhere new when what we had discovered was perfect. Great prices, great food and fantastic view.

We wandered into town to for a final look around. With Monterosso being the largest of the five villages there are more than one street to wander down. It is such a pretty town to explore and as we seem to have beaten the crowds, we took our time to look inside the two churches, the Church of San Giovanni Battista and the Oratoria dei Neri (the Oratory of the Blacks)

The Oratoria dei Neri is in very poor shape and is in the process of being slowly and painstakingly restored. However, behind the walls of scaffolding there are still images that intrigued me. Amongst the usual church imagery are many skeletons and skulls, along the cornices of the dome and embedded in the end of the wooden pews.

The church was founded in the 16th century by willing people who did their best to help widows, victims of shipwrecks, orphans and took care of the burial of the less fortunate. With so many deaths and families unable to afford to have their dead buried it was an extensive problem for the times. There was a group of volunteers that worked together to take care of the dead and as this group grew in size it began to have a form, rules and a name, The Company of Death. The Pope sanctioned the group in 1560, allowing them to receive alms and build churches and oratories, and the Oratory in Monterosso was built. The members had to wear a black habit, closed by a black cord and with a hood and collar that served as a mask to protect themselves from the decomposing bodies, and that is how the church gained its name. It was an interesting place to visit.

The other church, the one that I love photographing, is the Church of San Giovanni Battista and was built between 1244 and 1307 in Ligurian Gothic style. The beautiful facade is decorated with white and green marble, that actually looks like black and white stripes. It was very simply adorned inside and very peaceful and does not have the dramatic history like the Oratoria dei Neri.

After that we made our way back to "our" beach, Bagni Eden, to relax for the rest of the day on our paid beach chairs. Who would have thought that us Aussies would actually pay to go to a beach, but it was totally worth it. It was an extremely enjoyable way to spend the day. If only we knew then that we were actually meant to have checked out of our accommodation and be on our way to Pisa…Read more
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Pisa
September 21, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 22 °C
Well what a day we had. We had relaxed so much in the Cinque Terre that we lost track of days and on what was meant to be our check out day, we spent at Monterosso al Mare relaxing and enjoying what we thought was our last day. Imagine our surprise when we returned to our accommodation to shower and get ready for a nice night out, only to discover a letter attached to our front door saying we were suppose to have checked out by 10am and our belongings were at the office. Because my phone had been off all day we had missed the many frantic calls and messages from our host. He was relieved that we were still alive.

Talk about embarrassing. Once we realised our mistake we managed to do a panicked packing of luggage on the alley steps while working out what trains to catch to our next stop in Pisa. Talk about a big mistake. There we were in our board shorts and beach attire, not feeling fresh at all, catching two trains to get to Pisa. Thankfully our accommodation at Pisa was a hotel and their reception was open until 10pm. We made it with about an hour to spare.

Once we got over our frazzled nerves (having discovered a few important items were still in our last accommodation and we needed to make the trip back the next day) we were able to truly appreciate the location of our accommodation for the night. We walked straight out of our building, looked left and there was the Leaning Tower of Pisa. AMAZING!!

We were able to wander down the cobblestone lane and explore the area around the tower without any crowds. It was us, a few other tourists, and some armed army personnel that guard the buildings. It was such a fabulous feeling. After a couple of night time shots we found a great restaurant and finally fully relaxed over a glass of delicious Italian wine and a plate of yummy pasta. We knew we would have a full day tomorrow having to return to Cinque Terre to collect the rest of our belongings to then get back to Pisa for Brad’s scheduled tower climb, but for the time being we got to relax and enjoy the evening.Read more
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Bella Italia 2018
Torre Pendente di Pisa, Pisa
September 22, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
We woke up early today as we had a big day ahead of us. After losing our planned time in Pisa yesterday due to forgetting what day it was, instead of today being an easy travel day to Florence we had to retrace our steps back to a Riomaggiore (two trains there and two trains back) to collect our belongings, still find time for Brad to climb the Leaning Tower of Pisa and for us to check out the other amazing buildings in the square. And then we had to make our way to Florence.

Somehow we managed to fit it all in. After waking very early we made the quick walk back to the Leaning Tower of Pisa to photograph it in the early morning light. Once again there were very few people around, so we were able to take some great photos without the crowds. And then we made it back to Pisa in time for Brad to do his scheduled climb of the Tower. I sent Brad up to the top with the camera while I relaxed with a coffee and just admired the view from the ground. I have found some of the climbs a bit claustrophobic and didn’t want to face the climb today.

Brad loved the climb but did say it was a bit disconcerting at times as the steps sloped one way and the building another. And he mentioned the wear on the stone steps after years and years of people climbing the steps. He did take some great photos for me to admire.

The Torre pendente di Pisa, Leaning Tower of Pisa, is the campanile, or freestanding bell tower, of the cathedral of Pisa, known worldwide for its unintended tilt. The tower is situated behind the Pisa Cathedral and is the third oldest structure in the city's Cathedral Square (Piazza del Duomo), after the cathedral and the Pisa Baptistry.

The tower's tilt began during construction in the 12th century, caused by an inadequate foundation on ground too soft on one side to properly support the structure's weight. The tilt increased in the decades before the structure was completed in the 14th century. It gradually increased until the structure was stabilized (and the tilt partially corrected) by efforts in the late 20th and early 21st centuries.

The height of the tower is 55.86 metres from the ground on the low side and 56.67 metres on the high side. The tower has 296 or 294 steps; the seventh floor has two fewer steps on the north-facing staircase. Prior to restoration work performed between 1990 and 2001, the tower leaned at an angle of 5.5 degrees, but the tower now leans at about 3.99 degrees.

This is one monument that Brad just absolutely loves and it makes him smile every time we’ve seen it. I’m just glad we managed to get back in time for Brad to do the climb.Read more
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Piazza dei Miracole, Pisa
September 22, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
One of the parts that makes the Leaning Tower of Pisa so special is its location in the Piazza dei Miracoli, the Square of Miracles. The piazza is a World Heritage site that was formally known as Piazza del Duomo and is a walled 8.87 hectare area that contains the Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Graveyard and the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

It assumed its final appearance in the 16th century after demolition works, new buildings and the restoration of the monuments. However, it already existed in early medieval times, where there was a church devoted to Santa Maria and a small hexagonal Baptistery. The area was also used as a seat of Etruscan tombs.

The expanse of deep green grass against the white marble of the historic monuments is just beautiful and walking through the gates to that view the very first time was breathtaking. It truly is a special place.

Aside from the amazing structures the square is famous for, I love the Fallen Angel sculpture situated on the lawn beneath the Tower. It is a bronze sculpture of the body of Icarus, the son of Daedalus who dared to fly too near the sun on wings of feathers and wax. It was first displayed in the Piazza dei Miracoli in 2012 as a temporary exhibition but is still there today. Created by Polish sculptor, Igor Mitoraj who passed away in 2014, it is a powerful piece of art and it certainly fits right in with its historic surroundings. It is a fine example how the contemporary art can complement the ancient one.

‘The presence of the Angels has a symbolic significance, which is that of finding a minimum of serenity and peace’ - Igor MitorajRead more
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Bella Italia 2018
Duomo di Pisa
September 22, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
The Duomo di Pisa, the Pisa Cathedral, is a very impressive medieval Roman Catholic cathedral, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Construction began in 1063, the same year St Mark’s Basilica in Venice began its construction and there was a strong rivalry between the two republics to see which could create the most beautiful and luxurious place of worship.

Consecrated in 1118, it was enlarged in the 12th century, restored after a fire in 1595, and altered again in the early 18th century. More restorative changes occurred in the 19th century with the removal of newer changes in favour of returning some of the significant early features.

The exterior of the cathedral is just as beautiful and elaborate as the interior and is striking from every angle. It is a photographer’s dream, the iconic marble building, the lush green grass and the amazingly blue sky. Very picturesque.

Inside, the church houses the relics of Saint Rainerius, patron saint of Pisa, and the fragmentary tomb of Henry VII, Holy Roman Emperor. The tombs, the alters, the pulpit are a feast for the eyes, decorated in elaborate and famous art works, marble sculptures and panels. The amazing coffered ceiling with its 16th century fresco is breathtaking.

Once again we are blown away by the workmanship, the history and the beauty. Who knew we would love visiting churches so much??!!Read more
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Battistero di San Giovanni, Pisa
September 22, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Next to the cathedral is the Battistero di San Giovanni, Baptistery of St. John, an amazingly detailed building. It became the second building, in chronological order, in the Piazza dei Miracoli, with construction starting in 1152, to replace an older baptistery, and completion in 1363. It is the largest baptistery in Italy at 54.86m high and a diameter of 34.13m. Built on the same unstable sand as the tower and the cathedral, the Baptistery leans 0.6 degrees towards the cathedral.

Constructed of marble, the style of architecture transitions from the Romanesque style to the Gothic style with the bottom half being built in the Romanesque style and the upper section in the Gothic style with its pointed arches. The detail in the upper arches is so ornate and the comparison to the bottom simpler style is what makes this such a beautiful building to admire.

The most unique thing about the exterior is the dome roof with one half clad with lead sheets on its east side and the west side clad with red tiles. It is the Baptistery’s exterior dome roof and interior pyramidal roof that has resulted in making the interior acoustically perfect, a resonating chamber.

The interior is extremely surprising due to its lack of decoration. It contains an octagonal font at the centre that dates from 1246, and a bronze sculpture of St. John the Baptist at the centre of the font. The pulpit was sculpted between 1255 and 1260 by Nicola Pisano, father of Giovanni, the artist who produced the pulpit in the Duomo and is the most striking piece in the Baptistery.

The contrast between the interior of the cathedral and that of the Baptistery could not be more black and white, with the simplicity of the Baptistery really causing one to pause, to just stop and breathe. The sense of history and beliefs is very strong in here and it was great to be able to experience it.Read more
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Florence
September 23, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
We arrived in Florence, yesterday, late afternoon, totally exhausted after our huge day. We hadn’t counted on having to return to Cinque Terre to collect some of our belongings that hadn’t been removed from our accommodation. Needless to say we had been on the go since the sun rose and were not in the happiest of moods when we arrived in Florence. Finding our accommodation was a feat in itself, with there being very few street names and numbers, and what we didn’t realise was our flat was above some shops. We eventually found our accommodation for the next few days and it was pretty good, odd but good.

After an earlyish night, that we desperately needed, we headed out to explore Florence. We made our way to the Duomo Piazza and did the totally tourist thing and had breakfast sat admiring the Cathedral and Baptistery at Brunelleschi Bistrot. We had read so much about avoiding eating in the main tourist sites as the food won’t be the best and the prices would be dearer, but I have to say we loved our breakfast and it wasn’t expensive at all. In fact, we enjoyed breakfast there so much we returned again another day. Sometimes it is all about the location and we were lucky the food and price didn’t sour that for us.

Florence, like all Italian cities is an old city but there were lots of modern touches contrasting with the historic buildings. There were some big, bright, shiny sculptures, art on the building and lots of cool and unusual street art pieces around the city. And some of the window displays were amazing. I think our favourite and most surprising shop was the one dedicated to just rubber duck for the bath, in all sorts of themes. I have no idea how they even survive business wise, but in saying that we were so enthralled, we bought two for friends at home.

I love the contrasts of the city; I love the old and the new. It added extra interest to an already interesting place.Read more
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