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Bella Italia 2018
  • Debi Shaw
  • Brad Shaw

Bella Italia 2018

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    My Magnum, Rome

    6 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    So this is a very random inclusion in our travel story but I just had to include this place as it is a place I have not heard of before, and it was pretty cool - My Magnum. This shop allows you to create your own unique Magnum ice-cream, with your choice of toppings and Belgian chocolate.

    You get to choose your “naked” Magnum, vanilla or chocolate, then have it coated with your choice of white, milk or dark Belgian chocolate and topped off with toppings from a vast range of toppings. This is then finished off with your choice of Belgian chocolate drizzle.

    At €4.50 these weren’t cheap but we had to try the experience at least once. For me I still prefer the Ego Magnums you can buy at the shops. I did however like the decor, from the sign to the light shades created from Magnum sticks. Very cool and a very different last tourist site for our time in Rome.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Naples

    7 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We were up early today to make our way to Naples. While I have loved a lot of the sights in Rome, I haven't been fussed on Rome itself as it is such a dirty city and very crowded. I was happy we were moving on. Well we should have stayed in Rome because Naples is so much worse.

    We had heard Naples wasn’t the best place to visit but after watching a documentary on the underground tunnels and reading about the lovely Christmas street and shopping street in old Naples we thought we would add it to our agenda. What a mistake!!

    After getting ripped off by the taxi driver, we had to climb four flights of stairs with our luggage to get to our accommodation. We were early so we tentatively left our bags there and went to explore the streets. There is something about Naples that just doesn't feel right. There is almost a feeling of menace.

    We lined up to do the Underground tour we had heard about but decided to give it a miss when we saw how many people would be on the tour. Being crammed in a small tunnel with so many people was not appealing.

    We tried to give Naples a go and walked around the streets (there were a couple of cool statues) and checked out some churches, but it was in general just a grubby place to be. Rubbish piled up everywhere, everything (including the churches) covered in graffiti, and lots of gypsies selling stuff, lots of just tacky stores selling tat. The so called Christmas street which supposedly featured beautiful decorations and nativity scenes was just shop after shop of dull, dull, dull and tacky items. No Christmas spirit here.

    We managed to find a nice place for lunch, a lovely cafe down a side street that had made an effort to make their laneway a respite from the “real” Naples. It was lovely and the food was delicious, a great find.

    After lunch we decided to return to our room and in the end we stayed there until we left early the next morning. It didn't help that we were starting to feel homesick and this place was not condusive to encouraging us about the rest of our trip. This is not a town I would recommend to anyone and we were very happy to be leaving it.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Sorrento

    8 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    What a difference a day makes, from nasty Naples to stunning Sorrento. This place is heaven!!

    We somehow managed to make it on to the train at Naples after fighting against a huge crowd of people determined to get off the platform and not make any room for people trying to get on. I can understand how people get pick-pocketed here. It was overwhelming. The train ride was just as unpleasant as I was sat across from an old lady who was muttering Italian in a “devil” like voice and doing the sign of the cross for the whole ride. I think she put a curse on me. Arriving in Sorrento broke that curse.

    Our room is beautiful, location amazing, the streets are clean and the sun is shining. There are very few people here so we spent the afternoon wandering the streets, exploring the area, checking out the shops (I love the ceramics here) and enjoying an afternoon drink sat overlooking the amazing water. It is such a pretty town and so full of colour. Such a contrast to where we just came from.

    And we had some amazing meals here too. While waiting for our accommodation we enjoyed a very delicious brunch at Mo Mo, a kitchen and bar next door to where we are staying. We enjoyed it so much we went back for dinner and I had the best ravioli so far on the trip.

    Another place we visited twice was the Restaurant Terrazza delle Sirene at the Foreigner's Club, overlooking the amazing coastline. We enjoyed an afternoon drink and snacks on our first day, had a chat with some English tourists at the next table, and patted the local cats who joined us, while admiring the beautiful scenery. We were so impressed we returned for dinner on our last night and it was fabulous. Another plus for this beautiful town.

    We don’t want to leave. Sorrento put us back into holiday mode and helped wipe away the homesickness blues.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Capri

    9 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    What an amazing day. On the recommendation of friends we decided to do a boat tour today to Capri and it was simply brilliant!! Absolutely breathtaking!! There were only five other couples so it wasn’t a big group. We got to sit up front and enjoy the ride over to Capri, riding the waves and admiring the scenery. Our tour guide then took us around the island, taking us into the White Grotto and Green Grotto, the Love Grotto and through the stone archway of the Faraglioni di Mezzo.

    And when I say he took us into the Grottoes, we were in so far we could touch the walls of the caves. Our skipper was excellent. He would go in front first so those on the front of the boat could experience the grottos and then he would reverse in so those sat at the back would not miss out. The color and clarity of the water around Capri is astounding. It's absolutely beautiful. The colors are so rich and vivid.

    First stop was the Grotta Bianca, the White Grotto, filled with stalactites and stalagmites, where the limestone rock seems to reflect only white rays of light, thus giving the cave its name. If you squint you can see a statue of the Virgin Mary in the stalagmites.

    We then passed Capri's most iconic sight, the dramatic Faraglioni, three towering rock formations which jut out from the Mediterranean just off the coast. We sailed right through the stone archway and legend has it that if you're with your sweetheart, be sure to exchange a kiss while passing through for good luck, so we did.

    The Grotta Verde, the Green Grotto, was next and this earned its name from the green light upon the rocks. This effect is due to blue light reflected and transmitted from the water, playing upon the yellowish-hued sides and roof of the cave. Once again the colour of the water was breathtaking.

    To complete our boat ride prior to spending time on Capri we went into the Love Grotto, named for the heart shape on the cave walls. Not as deep or as impressive as the others but still cool to see.

    Capri is a pretty town filled with lots of colour, from the lovely lush gardens as we disembark to the pastel colours of the buildings. It is a typical tourist town with lots of shops and restaurants along the water front and it was a beautiful day to meander through the shops. We took the funicular up to the top to admire the views, before heading back down to enjoy lunch and a few drinks on the waterfront. (Lesson learnt - just because food prices are cheap, doesn’t mean the drink prices will be.) It was a very relaxing afternoon with our view of the boats bobbing on the blue sea. What a truly fabulous day!!    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018
    1

    Amalfi

    10 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Our destination for today was Amalfi and the easiest way to get here was by ferry. Such a pleasant way to travel and with a fabulous view of the coast line to admire on the way.

    We were sad to be leaving Sorrento as we really enjoyed our time there and were hoping Amalfi would be just as good... and it was but in a totally different way. Sorrento has a bit of sophistication about it (I think that’s the best way to describe it). It is very ordered and dressed to impress, which it does. Amalfi is a maze of alleyways to explore off the main street and down the alleyways are cool shops, different to what we have seen elsewhere, and excellent restaurants to enjoy. It has a real old Italian charm about it and the alleys have been decorated with planters, artwork etc so it’s as pretty as picture.

    I do have to admit I got a giggle from the fountain in the main square which was currently under restoration. I’m not sure what the sculptor was thinking when he positioned the water spouts. Very interesting choice.

    We had a couple of days to enjoy here and as it isn’t a big town we relaxed, enjoyed browsing the shops and did lots of eating and drinking. We found a very cute restaurant tucked away down a small alley for dinner the first night. It had so much charm and what we thought was just a small alleyway restaurant was in fact quite a huge establishment that had been running for 35 years. We were lucky enough to sit in the small courtyard surrounded by old buildings. Very authentic.

    Dessert was from Pasticceria Pansa, a cafe/patisserie that has been serving sweets, cookies, candied fruits and chocolates since 1830. Opened by Andrea Pansa, a master in the art of confectionery, it has been managed by five generations of Pansas. Part of the enjoyment was unwrapping the beautifully wrapped package they give you when your order to go. It was like Christmas and the “gift” inside was delicious. We could see (taste) why the shop was so successful.

    With a cooler day on our second day we decided to relax with a drink before lunch and returned to a restaurant below our accommodation. I love the old Italian men trying to entice people into their restaurants, with their sense of humour and the twinkle in their eye. It worked on us and we ended up enjoying not only a drink but a delicious lunch AND a dessert, and a lot of banter. A fun way to spend the afternoon and when the owner started introducing us as his brother and sister, we asked for a family discount.

    Amalfi definitely impressed us and we have loved this part of the Italian coast.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea, Amalfi

    11 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    With it being a cloudier day today we decided to scrap our plans of spending the day on the beach and instead we visited the Duomo di Amalfi, Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea. What a pleasant surprise this Cathedral was. Very pretty but not overdone on the outside and also unique to the others we have seen.

    Built between the 9th and 10th centuries on the ruins of a previous temple, it is now a conglomeration of two churches and a bell tower that have been modified and added to over several centuries. It houses a museum and the Cathedral and is definitely worth a visit.

    Someone asked if we were over seeing churches and old buildings but every one we have visited has had its own unique features that amaze us every time. And this one was no different.

    The lush garden of the Cloisters of Paradise was a pleasant surprise, surrounded by the white, almost Moroccan style arches, it made a pretty picture. And if you stood in just the right place you could capture a photo of the adjoining bell tower through an arched window.

    As with many other cathedrals a lot of the artwork that remain are not full pieces and we just get a glimpse of what it would have once looked like. This was the case for the upper floor of the museum but the crypt was another story.

    Completed in 1208, it holds the relics of the apostle, St Andrew, to whom the church is dedicated. The crypt has been very well preserved. With its stunningly decorated arches, beautiful chandeliers and amazing statues and alters, it was breathtaking!!

    The cathedral itself was also beautiful with arches of white contrasting against the highly decorated pulpit and naves. And of course there was the odd skull on display.

    This was worth the €3 admission (we overheard some people complaining about having to pay) and a great place to visit.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Il Granaio dei Casabella, Paestum

    12 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After a fabulous couple of days in Amalfi it was time to hit the road again, or in this case the ferry, to Salerno. From Salerno we picked up our hire car and made our way to Paestum, once a major ancient Greek city on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The ruins of Paestum are famous for their three ancient Greek temples, dating from about 600 to 450BC, which are in a very good state of preservation, and the reason Paestum is on our agenda.

    This part of Italy is very different to the other regions we have driven through. It is much flatter, less cared for, and not as pretty as some of the drives we have been on. There seems to be a lot of farming areas and parts of it had a real abandoned feel to it. Other than the prostitutes sat on their plastic chairs in the middle of nowhere, there weren’t a lot of people or cars around. It was an eye-opening drive, one that made me glad we pay taxes at home.

    Paestum itself looked like a resort town, and not a cheap one either, which was surprising considering the area we had driven through. It has a lush expensive feel to it. However, we weren’t staying here for the beaches, so we stayed closer to the Archaeological Park. We are staying at Il Granaio dei Casabella, a restored farm turned into a country hotel, only a six-minute walk from the Temple of Athena. The property is beautiful, inside and out with the only downfall being the many, many stairs we have to climb to our room. Being that it is off season and there aren’t many people staying here, we are surprised to be given the furthest room on the top floor. Oh, and the fact their website states there is a restaurant onsite and they completely deny that this is a restaurant or that it states it on their site. Very odd. And once again I had booked a bit further out of town with the belief there would be lunch and dinner options at the hotel. Luckily, we managed to get some lunch near the Archaeological Park, and dinner at a very cute restaurant just up the road from where we are staying.

    While the staff weren’t overly friendly and the internet was bad, the place itself was beautiful. The grounds were luscious and green, overflowing with flowers and plants, and there was even a tower room covered in ivy. Inside was just as grand, with well-appointed living-rooms that were very inviting. And the location to the Archaeological Park meant we could park the car and walk. It was a lovely place to stay. Thankfully breakfast was included and it was delicious!! So much variety and there was even a staff member on hand just to make our coffees.

    Despite some of our negatives, we would stay here again. It would be lovely to stay in the Springtime to see the gardens in full bloom.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Parco Archeologico di Paestum

    12 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After dropping off our bags we made our way to Parco Archeologico di Paestum, the site of three large temples dating from about 550 to 450BC. It was amazing seeing the huge temples in the distance as we walked towards them. They are in such great condition and have been well preserved. The whole ancient city of Paestum covers an area of approximately 120 hectares, but only the 25 hectares that contain the three main temples and the other main buildings have been excavated.

    The oldest of the three temples is the Temple of Hera, begun in about 560BC. It is the only Greek temple dating to a period of crucial importance to the formation of Greek architecture to have been preserved in such good condition. Seeing it standing out against the green grass and blue sky, it is a very striking structure.

    The largest of the temples, and the best preserved, is the Temple of Neptune, built in about the mid fifth century BC. The amazing thing is the construction as it is built of enormous blocks held together with simple dowels, without the use of mortar, enabling the building to withstand earthquakes and other natural calamities.

    What was even more amazing is that we were able to climb the ancient, and very tall, stairs and stand inside this structure, and just be in awe of the size and strength of the building. It just blows your mind to think we are standing were people stood before Christ. The only disappointing part about it was the group of youths taking selfies and making fun of other tourists in there. They would not move to allow other people to take photos of the temple. Very ignorant and they did dampen our experience.

    Next to the Temple of Neptune is the Temple of Athena. While not is as good condition as the Temple of Neptune, it is still amazing to see the large structure still so well preserved and the view of the three temples is very impressive.

    Other structures in the park are the remains of Roman Forum, the amphitheatre, even the main street of the Roman city. We could walk amongst the remains of the walls of their homes, assembly spaces and baths. The sense of history provokes such a feeling of awe and we explored the site for some time, just soaking it all in.

    Even though the park was shut at night-time, we wandered back after dinner to take some photos of the temples lit up. They look just as impressive in the dark. While this stop was off the beaten track on not really on our way to our next stop, I am so glad we made the detour to see this impressive part of history.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Altamura

    13 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today’s destination was the town of Altamura, a city and commune of Apulia in southern Italy. Dating back to the 6th to 3rd century BC, it was our pit stop on our way to Alberobello. Thankfully today’s drive wasn’t too long or too busy as we were heading towards the “less popular” end of Italy, and most of it was country driving.

    The only hiccup we had was trying to understand the parking in Altamura, but luckily some very helpful Italians stopped and tried to assist us. After a few failed attempts, a lady in the Chemist next to where we had parked used Google translate and we were finally able to rest easy that our car wasn’t going to get towed overnight. We love how helpful the Italians are!!

    Having arrived mid-afternoon, the shops were closed, and the streets were virtually empty as everyone had retired to their home for riposo, or siesta as we know it as. It was quite an odd feeling walking through an almost empty town as we explored the area. The only people we saw were gathered around the impressive looking churches in the main street as there were weddings being held at every one of them. Four weddings, each very different to the other. It was a cool thing to see.

    Altamura is a very clean town and has a lovely historic feel to it. The one thing that did surprise us though was the surveillance cameras covering the main street through town and going back a couple of streets either side. Some of the shops seemed to have excessive security doors for the area so it did make us wonder about the criminal activity. It was a bit disconcerting.

    Altamura is known for its particular quality of bread called Pane di Altamura but do you think we could find somewhere open to buy some to try. We tried when we arrived and again in the morning before we left but we were out of luck. Maybe next time.

    After we had explored the town, we decided we should conform with the Italian tradition of retiring for riposo, so we unpacked and relaxed in our accommodation for the afternoon. Our accommodation was the Bed & Breakfast del Corso and we were very impressed with our room and the facilities. And bonus for Brad was the communal kitchen which was very well equipped with lots of delicious snacks.

    After a relaxing afternoon we headed out to find somewhere for dinner. We still haven’t got the hang of the Italian way of having dinner after 8pm at night so the streets were still fairly quiet when we headed out. There didn’t appear to be a lot of places here with casual dining in the square and a lot of the restaurants had very closed off frontages. We decided to try Ristorante del Corso for dinner and thankfully, we made a good choice.

    From a very unassuming exterior, the interior was cool, with great artwork on the walls, a wall of wine bottles on display and a funky looking drinks waiter statue. It had a very elegant and posh feel to it. The very well-dressed staff did not speak English so it made for an interesting night. but we managed to order our food. Ordering wine was another story. We asked for a glass of vino and over came the sommelier in his flash suit with a selection of Italian wines which he then started describing in Italian. When we asked if he spoke English, he replied with “I choose” and immediately opened a bottle and poured us a glass. Without knowing prices we were a bit apprehensive it was going to be an expensive night so drank our wine very slowly. However, we ended up being blown away by how inexpensive it was. We were thinking €100 plus but our total bill was only €44 – we should have had more wine! That was for an extremely delicious main meal, dessert, wine and coffee. And I had the most amazing spinach gnocchi, that just melted in my mouth - it was the best on the entire trip.

    The big surprise for us was when we left the restaurant. What had been a virtually empty square was packed full of people. From a quiet quaint town to a place full of vibrancy, it was a big contrast. The Italians really do live later than we do. They were all heading out as we were heading back to our accommodation, however they are all asleep when we start our days and those are the times we get to see the sites without the hustle and bustle.

    We awoke to a foggy morning, great for some impressive photos, and after a delicious breakfast of a croissant and coffee at a nearby café, we hit the road again.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Parco Scultura La Palomba, Matera

    14 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today's weather was a bit overcast but there was also a layer of fog around that just wouldn't budge. When we arrived at Parco Scultura La Palomba it was still very foggy/misty (we really weren't sure which) at 10.45am. However that wasn't going to deter me from wandering around the quarry and climbing the hills to admire the piece of abstract sculpture on display here.

    Parco Sculture La Palomba is located in an abandoned quarry and is now an open-air gallery of huge sculptures, some made from the rubble of 9/11. In 2013, a world-famous sculptor named Antonio Paradiso held an exhibit in the defunct quarry that brought new life to the space. After that closed, the quarry was transformed into an open-space sculpture park containing a permanent exhibition that showcases the artist’s various works. The park also organizes temporary exhibitions and other events.

    Probably the most intriguing works on display are those made out of 20 tons of twisted metal, steel girders, and bars that were found in the rubble of the World Trade Center after 9/11. Antonio Paradiso was selected as the only Italian artist among the 9,000 artists who applied for the permission and opportunity to turn parts of the destroyed World Trade Center into art. He got the chance to personally choose which elements he used.

    La Palomba, which means “The Dove” in English and many of the pieces feature doves in one form or another. With the mist in the background the pieces were quite striking against the skyline. I enjoyed this brief stop on our journey for today.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Chiesa della Madonna Delle Vergini

    14 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Our next stop was going to be a lookout so we could get a full view of the Sassi di Matera from across the gully. However, due to poor directions, from me and the GPS, we actually turned too soon and ended up following a dirt road to the end which still gave us an great view of Matera, if it hadn't been so foggy and overcast. We had actually driven into the Park of Rupestrian Churches of Matera, Parco della Murgia Materana. The park is a rocky highland littered with grottoes inhabited since the Paleolithic era, some that were transformed into rupestrian (rock-cut) churches in medieval times. It is a Unesco World Heritage site since 1993, and is also where Mel Gibson shot the "Crucifixion" in the movie "The Passion of the Christ".

    There are about one hundred and fifty sites of worship that, in part, compose the Park of Rupestrian Churches of Matera, and many are dispersed throughout the surrounding territory. The Park extends over 8000 hectares and is also the location of numerous housing allotments dating back to the Paleolithic Era.

    The church of the Madonna delle Vergini was located just a short walk from where the road ended. It is a small chapel that is the only one among the rock churches to still be open for worship and it is also the destination of a large pilgrimage on the last Sunday of May, on the occasion of the feast of the Virgin.

    It has a very simple masonry façade with five niches; in the upper part, rebuilt at the end of the last century, there is a larger niche that houses a statue of the Madonna with Child created by a local craftsman. The whole church has been carved into the rock and it would have been great to see but unfortunately it was closed.

    Wandering around the hillside and glimpsing temple remains below, walking through caves that were believed to be inhabited over 2.5 million years ago was pretty amazing. It was a brief stop but another one I enjoyed.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    The Trulli of Alberobello

    14 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    This was one stop I was really looking forward to as I had seen Alberobello often listed on the cutest towns, most picturesque towns, nicest towns in Italy lists. And the drive today was one of the nicer drives we have done. The country side in this area of Italy is exactly what I imagined Tuscany to look like (but the parts we saw didn’t) with rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves and old stone farm houses. It was very pretty. One thing we did notice though was that a lot of the farm houses were abandoned, including some of the bigger estates, and yet the fields around them were all being farmed or were planted with grapes vines or olive trees. We wondered what had happened to the original farmers of the land.

    As we got closer to Alberobello more and more cute little Trulli houses appeared scattered amongst the fields and I couldn't help but smile as I was very excited we were going to be staying in one. We even saw a pink one, the only coloured one we saw our entire time there.

    Alberobello is undoubtedly the Capital of the Trulli with its historic centre, Zona dei Trulli, an Unesco World Heritage Site with a dense mass of 1500 beehive-shaped houses, white-tipped as if dusted by snow. While many are now used for tourist accommodation, shops and restaurants, there are many that are still lived in today. In fact an 86 year old lady still lives in her trulli house next to the shop our host owned. Daniela’s (our host) grandparents used to live in the level below ground with their chickens in the trulli house she now uses for her shop. Her partner now uses the downstairs to display and sell his model trulli houses while the upstairs is the accommodation office and the shop that sells pasta, snacks and local wine.

    The first trulli settlements, date as far back as the Bronze Age, while the trulli still intact today go back to 1350AD. Legend has it that the Trullo’s dry-wall construction, without mortar, was imposed on new settlers so that they could dismantle their shelters in a hurry, an efficient means to evade taxes on new settlements under the Kingdom of Naples, and certainly a good way to deter unruly lords. Yet most historians agree that this building technique came about due to the area’s geographical conditions, abundant with the limestone in these constructions.

    The domed roofs of the trulli are embellished with decorative pinnacles that represent the signature of the master trullaro who made or restored it. And some Trullo have symbols painted in white on the roofs. These are religious and mystical symbols that provide protection for the inhabitants.

    Our hostess, Daniela, was lovely and made us feel very welcome. She was concerned though when meeting us that the Trulli house we had booked might be too small for us. I’m sure we’ve put some weight on on this trip but I didn’t think we were that big!! She showed us the house we had booked and let us decide, and while it was very cute, it was in fact quite small. Luckily she had a bigger one available which was perfect for our three day stay. It wasn’t as cute as the smaller one but it was still very charming while being more practical.

    We stayed right in the Trulli zone and couldn’t wait to get out and explore. Unfortunately when we arrived it was a bit overcast but thankfully the next day began with brilliant blue skies that contrasted beautifully against the white tips of the trulli houses.

    We enjoyed exploring the cobblestone lanes while admiring the Trullo. Being that it was a tourist destination for cruise ships most of the Trullo shops sold tourist items, a lot of which were quite tacky. But there was a great vibe with buskers playing music, entertaining people as they explored the site.

    I loved this town and I loved walking the lanes, daytime and night. We had a fabulous host and excellent accommodation and an amazing three day stay in Alberobello.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Sightseeing in Alberobello

    15 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We had a lazy lie in today before hitting the streets to explore the sights of Alberobello. First stop was the Trulli church, Chiesa Sant'Antonio, the only Trulli church in the world. The church was built in the space of 14 months and was opened to the public on 13th June 1927.

    The church is built using the same technique as for the trullo, with a few modern tactics. The central dome is 19.80 metres high and the skylight accentuates it even further by another 3.20 meters. The interior is very simple raw stone and the only touch of colour is visible on the wall of the high altar, completely covered by a fresco dating back to the 20th century depicting Christ Pantocrator surrounded by saints.

    Next we made our way through the maze of trulli huts to the other side of the main street where there are fewer trulli huts and the majority of which are lived in by permanent residents. Here we visited the Alberobello Basilica of Santissimi Medici Cosmos and Damiano, yes another church. This was a much simpler cathedral to those we have visited in the past and the art work was very different. These paintings had a real stylised feel to them and were a bit monotone in colour. I liked that they were different to the norm.

    The basilica stands on a site which during the 17th century was occupied by a rural chapel named after the Madonna delle Grazie. It was later dedicated to the Santi Cosma and Damiano, patrons of the town and the current building was built between 1882 and 1885.

    We then visited the largest trulli hut in the town, Trullo Sovrano. Built during the first half of the 18th century, it is the only trullo with a raised floor and because of this it is called "sovrano" (Italian for monarch, king). Its measurements are extraordinary, with the dome 14 metres high, a sign of the great dry stone building skills reached by the trulli masters.

    During the course of the centuries the trullo was used not only as a private home, it also housed the relics of the Santissimi Medici in 1785 and for 14 years the oratory of the Confraternita del Ss. Sacramento. Because of its architectonic peculiarity the building was declared a National Monument in 1930.

    After a fun morning of sightseeing we decided to try our Italian/English at the local supermarket and bought some delicious local cheese, meat, salad and biscuits to enjoy for lunch back at our trulli. Great decision as the weather had turned and the skies were getting grey. We enjoyed a very relaxing afternoon, resting our feet, reading and snoozing. A great way to spend a cooler overcast afternoon.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Grotte della Poesia, Roca

    16 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The weather forecast for Alberobello today was overcast and rain so we decided it was the perfect day for a car trip further down the coast towards the heel of Italy’s boot. It was a very easy and pleasant drive.

    Our destination was the Grotto della Poesia, the Cave of Poetry, located in the small town of Roca. What we found most amazing about our drive through some of the coastal towns was the sense of abandonment they had. Everything had shut down as the tourist season was over. It was a very bizarre feeling driving through these lovely but empty towns. Roca was the same except for the local hotel but it too had a very empty feel. The good thing about it being out of tourist season was there was hardly any traffic and parking was a breeze. Bonus for us.

    Most of Italy’s coastline is rocky with intermittent sandy beach coves, incredibly clear water and many sea caves. One of the most majestic and compelling is the Grotte della Poesia, a 30 metre wide sinkhole at the edge of the sea.

    Grotte della Poesia is said to have been a favorite swimming spot for an ancient princess, the sight of her swimming there inspired poets - thus the name, Cave of Poetry. Visitors nowadays come mainly to take leaps from its 5 metre cliffs into the clear waters, to scuba dive, swim from the sinkhole through an underground sea cave and back out to the sea. Even though the sun was shining it was a bit too cool for a swim so we just explored the area and admired the breathtaking scenery.

    On the north side of the cove adjacent to the Grotte, is the archaeological site of Roca Vecchia, an ancient town right at the edge of the sea. There is evidence of humans living here since the Bronze Age, along with the remains of massive walls from the 4th century BC, and structures and medieval walls dating from 14th century AD.

    In one of the caves along the cliff edge is a statue of Madonna, covered with photos and momentos of people sick or gone. It amazes me what people leave at these “random” statues and why the statues are even situated in some of the places we have seen them. I guess they bring people hope and comfort and there is nothing wrong with that.

    It was a lovely way to spend the day, at the seaside, sun shining and sea breezes blowing. Another idyllic location in gorgeous Italy.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Ristorante L'Aratro, Alberobello

    16 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Tonight was our last night in Alberobello so we decided to treat ourselves with a very delicious dinner at Ristorante L’Aratro. It is a 2018 Michelin recognised restaurant and is in a traditional Trulli hut dating back to the 1400s.

    It was amazing inside with a maze of rooms that opened up onto a enclosed patio area. The staff were very friendly and attentive and the food was amazing. Domenico Laera, owner and chef, opened Ristorante L'Aratro on 4th February, 1987. His dream was to let people know what his parents and grandparents have been handing down to their children - the love and passion for one's own land. I'd say his dream has come true.

    We thought we’d share an entree and luckily we did as it was 5 courses! Beautiful local vegetables, cheeses, meat, seafood and even tripe. Thankfully Brad ate my share of the tripe because it was disgusting. Our entree just kept coming and coming and coming and we were full before our mains even arrived.

    The food was delicious as was the local wine. I have really enjoyed the Italian wines, especially from this region. The maître de served us limoncello to finish off the meal and the chef/owner even came to the table to see how our meal was. He was a character with his bright apron, scarf and braces. He even agreed to have a photo with us.

    It was the perfect end to our very enjoyable stay in Alberobello.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    B&B Solosud, Matera

    17 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After a relaxing morning in Alberobello we said goodbye to our fabulous host, Daniela and her partner, and hit the road again. We had a wonderful stay in our Trulli hut and absolutely loved the town. It was a great three day stay but our journey must continue.

    Brad is getting very good at driving like an Italian and I’m not sure that is a good thing but he got us to our next destination in one piece. Tonight’s stop-over is at Matera, the town we viewed from the distance on our stop on the way to Alberobello. Matera is a very unique town and so is our accomodation. It is amazing, which is why it is getting its own post.

    We are staying at B&B Solosud, a Sassi house in old Matera. Sassi houses are houses dug into the calcarenitic rock, carved out of the caves and cliffs. While we have appreciated the authentic old Italian styling of some of our previous accomodation this one is styled to perfection. We are staying in a house that was most likely the home for the ancient Materians over 9000 years ago and while it still retains the charm of the original dwelling it has been tastefully renovated and decorated. And it has everything you could possibly want for an overnight stay. We just wish we were staying longer.

    The owner Paola is a lovely Italian lady who lived in Sydney for ten years many years ago and she speaks fabulous English. She made us feel very welcome and gave us heaps of tourist information and guides. It certainly makes a difference to your stay when you start your visit with great service.

    And the added bonus is the location. The view out of our front door is across the gully to the cave riddled mountains and overlooking the square below with the church and piazza. It is the perfect location for sightseeing, restaurants, or to just admire the view.

    The B&B Solosud is definitely in our top three of places we have stayed and we have stayed at some fabulous places. We would recommend this place to anyone in a heartbeat.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Sassi Di Matera

    17 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    I knew Brad wasn’t looking forward to today’s destination as he said it looked like a bombed Beirut when we saw it across the gully on our way to Alberobello, and to be honest it didn’t look that inviting from the opposite side. However, we were very pleasantly surprised.

    Matera is a city on a rocky outcrop in the region of Basilicata, in southern Italy. It is known for its Sassi area, a complex of cave dwellings carved into the mountainside. Allegedly founded by the Romans in the 3rd century BC, by the 1950s it was a source of shame for Italy, a place of poverty, malaria and high rates of infant mortality, where people lived in caves without electricity, running water or sewage. A book at the time raised awareness of the desperate conditions and about half of the 30000 population were forcibly moved by the Italian government to new homes in the modern part of the city between 1953 and 1968.

    Until the late 1980s the Sassi was still considered an area of poverty, since its dwellings were, and in most cases still are, uninhabitable and dangerous. Tourism has helped with the regeneration of the Sassi and it is becoming a unique tourist destination. The city is now amongst the fastest growing in southern Italy.

    We were staying in the Sassi area and had to park in a carpark some distance from our accommodation. Thankfully on the advice of our hostess, we had packed everything we needed for our overnight stay into our backpacks and left the majority of our luggage in the boot, hoping like crazy that it would still be there in the morning. (It was)

    Once we had checked into our amazing accommodation, we ventured out to explore this very unique town. It felt like we had stepped back in time, especially with quite a large area of the Sassi still abandoned. Thankfully bit by bit locals are starting to restore their abandoned family homes and what was once known as the slum, housing for the poorest of the poor, is now a tourist destination that is helping Matera become an amazing restored historic town. I just feel very lucky to be able to visit this place.

    Due to it being out of tourist season, there was not a lot open in the old area and we were happy enough just wandering around the few stalls in the Piazza S Pietro Caveoso and admiring the amazing views across the ravine. Seeing the mountain side scattered with caves in which people lived and worshiped for centuries was eye-opening. It is just hard to believe that people lived in such hard to get to places.

    We visited the Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso before enjoying a light lunch at Keil, a café overlooking the square. One thing we do enjoy is having a glass of wine or beer and just sitting back watching the world around us and people watching and there are some strange ones around, that’s for sure.

    As everything shut here for riposo we took some time to relax before heading out again to check out the Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris in the late afternoon. I have to say it is so hard not to keep photographing the same thing over and over again. This town is like nothing I have ever seen and it is such a feast for the eyes.

    Our dinner choices were a little light on due to it being out of tourist season and we were very lucky that the owner of the café we had lunch at agreed to cook us a light meal, even though his kitchen was closing. It was a strange feeling being one of very few people out and about in the Sassi area, especially after coming from Alberobello, which was still quite busy at nighttime. After a light dinner, we headed back to our cave home for an early evening as it was getting cooler and the fog was rolling in. It was an amazing sight seeing the Sassi lit up at night and covered in fog in the morning.

    I loved that we did not rush everywhere trying to see as much as possible, but I would love to visit Matera again to explore the entire town, not just our little corner of it. It is a magical place and at the top of my list of favourites from this trip.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso, Matera

    17 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We checked out the Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso, the Catholic Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The origin of the church has never been fully confirmed and while it was a religious site dating back to the 8th century it is believed that construction dates back to 1218. From the outside it is the sort of church you would want as a backdrop to your wedding photos as it is so picturesque.

    While it doesn’t feel that big inside, it does have some beautiful and unique features and works of art. Some of the features are amazing, with the most eye-catching being the painted wooden panel ceiling decorated with remarkable works by local artists.
    However, I am still trying to determine if Matera is playing one big April Fools Day joke on everyone. The sculptures and art work in here have a very unique style, with some making you question the history behind them. With the image behind the font looking like Jesus is getting a shoulder ride, another of babies being boiled in a pot and the sculpture on the front of the church looks like a statue of Mary with some alien children, it seems someone had a sense of humor when decorating the church. Very unique to say the least.

    While the Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso isn’t full of amazing, well known art works and isn’t overly decorated it was still a great church to visit. I still can’t believe we have visited so many churches on this trip so far, as they certainly weren’t on the agenda, but I love how different they all are and the unique charm they have. They really portray the stories of the region.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris

    17 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After our afternoon riposo, we made the walk up the many stairs to see the Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris. This is a cave church that is dug into the rock and is located on the high part of the rocky spur just up from San Pietro Caveoso. Due to continuous alterations over the centuries there is not much left intact, however its crypt is the site of important frescoes that date back to the 8th century that conservationists are trying to preserve. The unique thing with this church is that it is literally built into the mountain with the crypt being nothing more than a cave dug into the stone.

    Unfortunately, we really weren’t that impressed, having paid an entrance fee, there was no information in English and with the deterioration of the frescoes, they weren’t that impressive. Harsh, I know, and while we appreciate the history and the location, we have seen some amazing sites so far and this one is not one we would suggest to other travellers.

    In saying that, the church was unique, and the views of the city and the gully were definitely worth the walk up. We spent some time admiring them before heading back down to find somewhere for dinner.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Matera - Old and New

    17 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    While we were staying in the historic Sassi area of Matera, we still got to admire some the “newer” parts of Matera as we made our way from the carpark to our accommodation and back. Like I said, I wish we had more time to explore this interesting town as we passed by some very interesting buildings.

    One was the Chiesa del Purgatoria, Church of Purgatory, which was built between 1725 and 1747. It was constructed as a place for people to pray for the souls trapped in limbo between heaven and hell. The reason it caught my eye was the decoration of skulls and crossbones on the exterior of the church. The main door is divided into 36 panels, each devoted to the theme of death, with skulls and crossbones sometimes crowned with headgear belonging to rules and prelates, intended to emphasise the fact that all men are equal after death. Above the doors were adorned with skeletons, almost every nook was decorated featuring skulls and skeletons. It certainly is an interesting building and one I would like to explore next time we visit.

    One of the things I love about the Sassi area with its rejuvenation, is the effort made to bring in some plants and greenery and some interesting sculpture and statues to make the area more interesting. There were so many photographic corners that contributed to the uniqueness and specialness of the Sassi di Matera.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    The Ghost Town of Craco

    18 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We woke to the town covered in fog and because we were close to the edge of town overlooking the gully it looked like we were at the edge of the world.

    We enjoyed a very delicious breakfast today with our Italian hostess. This was a bit different to usual as we have always eaten our breakfast by ourselves in the past, either in a common breakfast room, on our balconies or with a voucher for a cafe close by. Today we enjoyed a very delicious breakfast in our host’s kitchen. Her home was above our “cave” rooms and it was beautiful. It was great hearing how her and her brother bought three rooms many years ago and as rooms next door became available they bought those too until they had enough to create their home.

    Because our hostess had lived in Australia for ten years she spoke very good English and it was lovely to be able to communicate with her. She was telling us about how hard it is to live in Italy with the cost of living and taxes. Both Brad and I have realised while touring this country how very lucky we are to live in Australia and how we actually see the benefits of our rates and taxes. We really do live in the lucky country.

    First stop today was the abandoned village of Craco. Craco is a ghost town and comune in the Province of Matera, in the southern Italian region of Basilicata. The old town was abandoned due to natural disasters and the abandonment has made Craco a tourist attraction and a popular filming location. In 2010, Craco was included in the watch list of the World Monuments Fund.

    Around 540 BC, the area was called Montedoro and inhabited by Greeks who moved inland from the coastal town of Metaponto. Tombs have been found dating from the 8th century BC, suggesting the original settlement dates back to then.

    In 1963, Craco began to be evacuated due to a landslide and the inhabitants moved to the valley of Craco Peschiera. The landslide seems to have been provoked by works of infrastructure, sewer and water systems. In 1972 a flood worsened the situation further, preventing a possible repopulation of the historic center. After the earthquake in 1980, the ancient site of Craco was completely abandoned.

    Mel Gibson’s Passion of the Christ was partially shot in Craco along with lots of other movies.

    We had hoped to do a tour of the old town but English speaking tours aren’t that popular in the off peak season. Because you can’t enter the site unless you are in a tour we made do with photographing the city from beyond the walls. It is hard to comprehend that an entire city had been abandoned. We have seen many homes, buildings and complexes abandoned as we have driven around Italy but not such a large town.

    It was a pretty cool detour and I have loved the countryside we have been driving through. The countryside in Southern Italy has been very different to Northern Italy and very picturesque. I’m very happy we have been able to experience both ends of Italy.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Cristo Redentore di Maratea

    18 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Well what a road trip today. I can’t believe how narrow some of the so-called dual lane roads are over here. It was certainly a bit daunting at times.

    The changes in the landscape today have also been quite dramatic, from rolling hills of fields, either recently harvested or ready to be plowed, to mountains covered in trees and bush with a rainforest like feel. I am loving the southern end of Italy.

    We finally arrived at our location in Maratea for the night and while it was a confronting drive the view when we got here was amazing. Maratea is approximately 32 km of rocky coastline with 20 beaches but as this was just an overnight stop we were staying closer to town and not on the shoreline. Maratea is also known as the town of churches as it has 44 of them!! Shock, surprise we didn’t visit any of them today.

    Our only tourist stop today was the Cristo Redentore di Maratea, the Statue of Christ the Redeemer, at the top of Mount San Biagio. After the drive we had I didn’t think anything could be worse but I was mistaken! Not only did we drive down narrow laneways through town, we then had the treacherous windy drive up the mountain. And not only was the road windy, the drop from the edge of the road was daunting and the guard rails minimal. Definitely an experience but not a drive I want to repeat.

    The statue of Christ the Redeemer was erected in 1965 and is the tallest statue in Italy, the second tallest in the world. Created by Florentine sculptor, Bruno Innocenti, it is 21 metres tall and 19 metres wide. Made from reinforced concrete covered with a mixture of white cement and marble from Carrara, it makes a striking figure on the mountain top.

    I had read there was a car park towards the top of the mountain and then a shuttle bus would take us the rest of the way, however there was no mention about it not operating in October. Thankfully (or unfortunately) we were unable to drive past the carpark due to it being a traffic limit zone and while I was disappointed we couldn’t get to the top the road to be travelled would have been the scariest by far.

    I was very relieved and surprised we made it back to our accommodation for the night.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Reggio Di Calabrio

    19 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Wow, what a long day already and we have only completed the first step of our travel day. We left Maratea at 9am for what should have been a three and a half hour drive that turned into a four and a half hour drive.

    We saw a few accidents today, not surprising because Italians all drive like they have a death wish, lots of police doing radar, first time we had seen that, and ridiculous speed limits in odd places. And some of the roads we drove on were very scary, so high up and sticking out the side of mountains. It was a very stressful drive.

    We then arrived at the car hire place to drop the car off and while most places have been relatively easy to park the car, we drove into a major traffic area. There were cars everywhere. We have never seen traffic like it and there was no way we could find a park. I jumped out to find out from the car hire company where to go. The lady came out, just stuck her hand up to cross the busy road, (and the cars just stopped for her), and thankfully she then took over the driving. She did a u-turn in the middle of all the traffic and parked the car outside her office across the driveway. She then told us it was school pick up time which was why it was so hectic. Ten minutes later and it was as quiet as anything.

    It amazes me how the Italians just drive wherever they want, park any which way and everyone seems quite calm about it. We have heard very few horns blasting (except the odd one at us for obeying the speed limit) and haven’t witnessed any road rage. Us Aussie drivers need to learn a thing or two about patience when driving.

    I think Brad was extremely relieved to be able to hand over the keys and call it a day. Due to the stress of driving today, we changed our future travel plans to exclude anymore driving adventures. Brad breathed a big sigh of relief. He has done an amazing job driving and we have seen so many more places because he was brave enough to give it a go. ❤️    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Messina, Sicily

    19 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Well everything I’ve read about public transport in Sicily is true - nothing runs on time and most services get cancelled. But I thought I could plan my way around that. Unfortunately not to be.

    When researching how to get to Sicily I read we could get a ferry direct from Reggio Calabria so that is where I organised for us to drop our hire car off at. Thankfully the lady at Europcar mentioned that the ferries weren’t operating from Reggio Calabria port so we didn’t waste time and money getting there only to discover it was closed. Instead we had to get a taxi to Villa San Giovanni, a €40 trip. We did manage to get straight onto a ferry to Messina but I think that was the only easy part of the day.

    When planning the trip google maps had the distance from the ferry port to the train station as a short walk, when in fact it was going to be about a 40min walk. Luckily for a us a lady took pity on us and offered to drive us to the train station herself. Funny thing was she didn’t speak a word of English, and I mean not a word, but we (meaning I) happily jumped in her car and trusted she would get us there. Brad was a bit more apprehensive, he was thinking along the lines of serial killer. I was even able to use my valuable Italian lessons. Lol. Not really. I barely managed to introduce myself. Anyway my trust in her was fulfilled and she happily dropped us at the train station. She restored my faith in people.

    Next step in getting to Taormina, our destination for today, was to catch a train. Google and the train sites said trains leave every half hour. And how gullible was I to believe that. We had about an hour and a half wait and then had to cross our fingers it wasn’t delayed or cancelled like the earlier two trains. It eventually arrived and we finally made it to Taormina, only to discover a shortage of taxis. Another long wait but finally we made it to our accommodation for the next two days. Very weary and regretting adding Sicily to our trip, we hope our day tomorrow makes this long travel day worthwhile.    Meer informatie

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  • Bella Italia 2018

    Taormina, Sicily

    20 oktober 2018, Italië ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After a late check-in and a night of rain and bad weather forecasts, we woke to a beautiful sunny day. A hurricane had hit Sicily two days before we arrived and the weather forecast hasn't looked good but for some reason the forecasts seem to be wrong as we always end up with sunny days. Very lucky. I really wasn't sure what to expect from Taormina after our arrival last night and have to admit I was pleasantly surprised.

    After a delicious breakfast on the terrace overlooking the bay, we hit the streets and started touring. First stop was the ancient Roman Amphitheatre - more on that shortly. After the theatre we decided to just wander and explore the town. By now we have seen a lot of "tourist" towns and while Taormina had the usual tourist shops, there was also a lot of variety and some pretty cool things to see. If only we lived a lot closer and didn't have to worry about excess luggage, I would have bought so much. There was a nice feel about Taormina and it was a pity we didn't have a bit more time here to explore more.

    We found our way down to the main square, we had no idea how big the town was, and got to enjoy the view, check out some of the old churches and buildings, and listen to some Sicilian buskers. A very pleasant afternoon. There were lots of cool restaurants and cafes tucked away in the alleyways and we found a lovely one to stop and have a light lunch. We had enjoyed a very delicious Arancini ball on the ferry on the way over and had discovered they were a staple in Sicily and we wanted more. Lunch was an aracini ball and a glass or two of local wine. We also happened to start chatting to a couple sat next to us and had a lovely time exchanging stories and getting some gossip on some stars from a tv show we watch as they knew the cast members. It was a pleasant way to spend the afternoon.

    We ended our day in Taormina with a delicious Sicilian dinner at Bella Blu, a great restaurant overlooking the ocean. I love that we get given a shot when we pay the bill at the end of the night. Tonight's shot was a lemon vodka slushie and it was delicious, except for the brain freeze that followed from drinking it so quickly. Another great night with great food and company. Thankfully Brad and I aren't sick of each other yet.    Meer informatie

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