L’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022

September - Oktober 2022
  • Debi Shaw
Italy is calling us home. And home is where the heart it. It has been way too long. Baca selengkapnya
  • Debi Shaw

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  • Vicus Caprarius, Rome

    7 September 2022, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    After our well-earned afternoon nap we made our way to Vicus Caprarius, an archeological site underneath the famous Trevi district. Nicknamed the “City of Water” it is an ancient Roman apartment complex dating to the 1st century, established after the Great Fire of 64. The site was discovered in the late 1990s during expansion work on the Cinema Trevi theatre above.

    It was amazing to see what has been discovered, with so many artefacts unearthed from the site, including terracotta figurines, African pottery and over 800 coins. The Aqua Virgo, one of the eleven aqueducts of ancient Rome, still discharges some of its water into the pools of Vicus Caprarius, while carrying water to the Trevi fountain.

    The water was crystal clear, and inviting in the heat we had been experiencing. It would have been lovely to have a cooling dip, if only that was on offer. It is mind blowing what is still being unearthed in this ancient city and we were so pleased we booked this tour.
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  • Fiocco di Neve, Rome

    7 September 2022, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    After our tour we dropped by our “local” gelatoria, Fiocco di Neve, for our daily gelato fix. We figured it was our third day there so it must now be our local. We did look at other gelatorias but they looked so clinical and commercial. Ours has charm and very friendly staff, and more importantly lots of flavours to choose from. This time I tried Bisotto and it was delicious. Brad chose Amarena, black cherry, again as he enjoyed it so much the first day.

    We wandered past the Trevi Fountain (again) and took a couple of photos (again), wandered past the Pantheon (we have to as it is on our way home) and took some photos (again). We never get tired of these historic sites, and we love to capture them in different light at different times of the day.

    Gelatos eaten, sites seen, we decided to call it a day.
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  • Piazza Navona, Rome

    8 September 2022, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    With the weather forecast not the best for today we decided to head to Piazza Navona, one of our favourite piazzas, for breakfast. What we didn’t take into account was that the cafes were not open for breakfast and did not open until 10am. With the rain starting to fall we took a few photos (how could we not) and found a cafe closer to home for a pancake breakfast. While this is not something we would usually have in Italy, it was nice. And the location, Emporio Sant’ Eustachio, is not somewhere we would usually eat choose either as it was bright, yellow, shiny and new but it still had character. With its main focus on all things coffee, it was a great place for our final breakfast in Rome.

    As the weather wasn’t the best we snapped a few more photos on our way back to the apartment to relax for the day and catch up on some sleep. We needed it.
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  • Antica Salumeria, Rome

    8 September 2022, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We ventured out again for Linner (lunch/dinner) at Antica Salumeria in the Piazza Della Rotonda, the piazza in front of the Pantheon. We have stopped by this place for a look every time we have visited Rome but had not yet eaten there. Today was the day. Antica Salumeria is the oldest gourmet food shop in Rome and has been operating since 1375. Thankfully the meats weren’t that old, even if some of them looked it. We sat in the small back room and enjoyed a meat and cheese platter with some delicious Italian wine. It was such a great experience and I tried meats that I would usually avoid. I am being a bit more adventurous with my food selection on this trip.

    We followed this up with a gelato, once again from our “local” and I had Vaniglia (vanilla) and snickers (not very Roman but I couldn’t resist), and Brad had Pistacchio and Fragola (strawberry). We both agreed that the black cherry has been our favourite so far. We took our obligatory gelato pics in front of the Pantheon (plus a few more - you can never have enough photos) before having a night in and packing for our next location.

    Rome has been exciting, interesting, comforting (we know our way around) and hot, and we are so happy to be back in Italy.
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  • Cafe Montanucci, Orvieto

    9 September 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    What a day! Our first train to Orvieto was cancelled due to train strikes, and the next train we managed to get tickets for was also cancelled - after we had boarded and were waiting for it to depart. After waiting in line for over an hour we were informed that they could not guarantee that the next available train to Orvieto would also not be cancelled. It was extremely frustrating, and we were already hot and tired. We decide to bite the bullet and pay a small fortune for a taxi to take us to Orvieto. We did not want to spend another night in Rome when our Orvieto apartment had already been booked and paid for, and we were so looking forward to getting there. While we were thrilled to be back in Rome and Italy, we couldn’t wait to get out of the bustling city and back to the small towns of Italy we love so much.

    Eventually we made it and were so happy with our decision. Orvieto is one of our favourite Italian towns and we are looking forward to our next few nights here. We had some time to kill before our host could meet us, so we made our way to our favourite cafe from our last visit, Cafe Montanucci, and I even impressed Brad with my navigation skills. I still remember my way around this old town.

    Lunch was more than welcome, and we enjoyed a delicious pasta and salad with a cold glass of vino bianco (white wine) and birra (beer). We have arrived in Orvieto!!
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  • Afternoon Drinks with a View, Orvieto

    9 September 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After a very quick unpack we ventured out to reacquaint ourselves with one of our favourite towns. I was quite concerned Covid would have hit the smaller towns in Italy quite badly, but that was not the case here. Orvieto is thriving and there are even more cafes, restaurants and shops than when we were here in 2019. It is great to see.

    Of course our first stop must be the Duomo di Orvieto, Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta (Orvieto Cathedral) and it needs to be seen to be believed. This church is one of my all-time favourites, especially the facade. The detail in the mosaic tiles that make up the facade are breathtaking. The skill and the craftsmanship are hard to fathom, considering construction began in 1290AD. I think we stopped and took photos every time we passed it while we were here.

    We sat and had a few drinks in the Piazza with the Duomo as our view. We are so happy and lucky to be here again.

    We then had a wander through the streets before our daily gelato treat. It has been a big day. After leaving the heat and crowds of Rome, we feel like our holiday has now begun.

    P.S. Vale Queen Elizabeth II.
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  • Streets of Orvieto

    10 September 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today was a day of wandering, taking in the sights of Orvieto and tasting the local food, wine and beer.

    First up for breakfast we had Lumachella, meaning small snail, which is a traditional pastry prepared with flour, water, olive oil, lard, pecorino cheese, pepper, salt and bacon. It is very tasty and a great kickstart to our day.

    Unfortunately we couldn’t resist and also had coffee and croissants. Lucky we are getting in plenty of steps or we mightn’t fit in the plane to come home.

    Late lunch in the Piazza del Duomo at the Osteria Wine bar consisted of a tasty selection of local meats and cheeses. We’ve been to this place before and the charcuterie never fails to please. The local white wine and beer helped wash it down.

    In amongst all the eating we did manage to find time to enjoy the views from Orvieto’s high location, as well as the wonderful streets and laneways. This town is a very pretty town with its delightful wooden sculptures, lovely window displays and greenery and flowers adorning the steps and window boxes. It is a vast difference to the hustle and heat of Rome.
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  • Il Labirinto De Adriano, Orvieto

    10 September 2022, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We had the most amazing experience tonight with an extremely delicious dinner at Il Labirinto de Adriano, Restaurant of the Labyrinth. We thought we’d have local dishes tonight, so Brad had rabbit wrapped in porchetta and I had Guinea fowl. Our meals were beautifully presented and tasted just as good as they looked.

    This restaurant gets its name from the labyrinthic structure below - a series of wells, caves and underground rooms that were discovered in the 1970s by the owners while renovating their upstairs pastry shop.

    We were able to go down via a steep flight of stairs cut into the earth for a look around. There were sculptures, earthenware and remains of what life would have been like for the inhabitants. There are fossils in these caves that have been dated to 250000 years ago.

    It was like an ancient “Swell”, the yearly Gold Coast sculptures on the beach event. It blows my mind that it was buried underground for centuries and what an amazing discovery. So far this is one of my favourite sites of our trip.
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  • Military Parade at the Duomo, Orvieto

    11 September 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today is our last day at Orvieto, this magical hilltop town we first visited in 2018, and it still has me captivated after our third time here.

    We had a late start this morning before watching an Italian military ceremony in the Piazza Duomo. The soldiers were wearing uniforms representing the history of the Italian military and it was very interesting seeing all the different eras and weaponry.

    As it was all in Italian and my Italian lessons haven’t been going that well, we still don’t know exactly what it was in aide of. The only part I understood was “Viva L’Italia”, long live Italy.
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  • Last Day in Orvieto

    11 September 2022, Italia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    After the Military parade we realised we had skipped breakfast so bought some Italian pastries on our way back to our apartment where we probably broke two Italian rules:

    1. No drinking wine before midday

    2. Don’t drink wine with cannolis

    It was worth breaking both rules as we enjoyed our Italian pastries and the complimentary bottle of wine our host had left for us. This ended up being our breakfast and lunch.

    We headed back out in the afternoon for our last Orvieto gelato, after a walk out to the fort for one last view of the surrounding countryside, and more photos of the stunning duomo.

    After fasting most of the day we were looking forward to dinner tonight at Il Dialogo, a traditional restaurant just a short walk from our apartment. I had forgotten our previous experience with pizzas with four topping and ordered a pizza quattro stagioni again. When they say four toppings they mean a different topping in each quarter. Brad had pappardelle with wild boar ragu. The food here is so delicious.

    That’s a wrap for this part of our holiday, as tomorrow we pick up a car and head to Montepulciano for the next six days. Brad has been watching this weekend’s Italian F1 Grand Prix for tips on driving over here! Wish me luck.

    Thank you Orvieto, you have been amazing and we are so happy we returned.
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