• Day 47

    March 23, 2024 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Ho Chi Minh

    After waking up in our crack den apartment, realising it wasn't some nightmare, I got up off the floor and we packed our bags. Before "checking out" we decided to head towards the Café Appartments - a big block of very cute cafés and other similar shops. We climbed some stairs and picked one of the first cafés we saw. This café was nice but pretty much only served sweet treats meaning my breakfast consisted of a lemon curd doughnut, a fancy matcha thing, and a chocolate cheesecake-esque thing. It was safe to say I let my stomach do the buying and by the end I was stuffed. It was all super yummy though - I don't think I could ever give up sugar to he honest it's too addictive.

    After that we headed back to Crack Den Accommodation™ to pick our bags up before getting out of there and walking 15. minutes to our new hostel. It was too early to check-in but we could drop our bags. Our first stop was the War Remenants Museum which we lazily got a grab to to save on a 30 minute walk but for 50p each we couldn't really complain. The Museum was about the Vietnam war which was pretty cool to see but there was alot of reading and alot of photos. When you first enter they have loads of American tanks, planes, helicopters, artillery, and bombs to walk around and have a look at. After that I went to have a look at the Tiger Cage exhibition. Honestly, I knew very little about the Vietnam war but hearing about what the Americans did was pretty horrifying. After reading, I got to walk around the mock prisoner of war camps and saw the conditions that they kept them in, often putting them through torture and being fed drabs of rotten fish and rice - stuffing them in small barbed wire cages. All of this permitted by the US - absolutely insane.

    Inside the main building was - as I said - alot of photos and information. I didn't read everything but there were 2 main rooms that I spent most of my time in. The first was the exhibition about the use and effects of Agent Orange - a chemical weapon that the US used in mass (over 20 million gallons) all over Vietnam who's effects will still be seen for another 100 years. Another room was dedicated to the pictures and evidence of the war crimes committed by US soldiers - slaughtering many many innocent people - burning villages to the ground along the way. Eventually I decided I had enough of reading as my head was getting frazzled so I met Alfie and Daisy outside at a Banh Mi place nearby. Banh Mi is a classic Vietnamese sandwich baguette thing. All I know is I've missed having bread - especially for lunch - and I liked it so much I ordered 2. Well okay I ordered 2 because I was hungry and they're not super big.

    Afterwards we decided to check out the Notre Dame and the Post Office. I know what you're thinking... Sam surely they don't have post in Vietnam. Oh you were actually wandering why there's a Notre Dame in Vietnam. Yeah that makes alot more sense. Well basically Saigon (the previous name for Ho Chi Minh) used to be a French colony and the French love the Notre Dame so they built another. This one was just like the original - in the sense that it was covered in scaffolding so who could even tell anyways. The Post Office was a fairly uninteresting building where I think the main attraction is the European style architecture but for us it wasn't anything new.

    We wandered down Book Street which had a really nice vibe of loads of stores selling new and used books from all sorts of languages. If I hadn't brought Lord of the Rings and still not read a single page I would have been tempted to get something but I know how bad I am at actually reading any book I buy. I do see some funny cat notebooks made from local handmade paper which were really cool but I knew it'd be wasted on me as I wouldn't know where to start with a notebook. Afterwards we thought we'd wander over to the night market and do some planning. This night market was pretty sweet. Stalls with cuisine from all over the world, a live band playing awesome songs, and hilarious stickers in the toilets (see pictures). I wasn't hungry straight away as I had brought and ate a whole packet of passion fruit sweets. Eventually when my appetite came back I went for another classic Vietnamese dish - Banh Xeo - a crispy stuffed rice pancake served with way too much salad that I didn't bother touching. For dessert I finally had some STICKY MANGO RICE again. It wasn't as good as it was in Thailand but I'm still glad I had it.

    We head back to our hostel - walking through what felt like Vietnamese Time Square. When we get back we actually check in and I'm shown to my dorm whilst they're shown to their private room. I end up chatting with some British guys who were preing with a bottle of vodka and coke. They offered me some but as I'm officially in my old man phase of life I said no, opting for a shower and sleep instead.
    Read more

  • Day 46

    March 22, 2024 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    Phnom Penh > Ho Chi Minh

    I woke up a little anxious as I had an hour between returning my bike and getting on the bus to Vietnam. I got reception to call the bike place and I got my passport back without a hitch (phew). I ordered a grab and headed to the bus station. Once I was in the grab I got Alfie and Daisy (who had been in the city since before 6am) to order me some breakfast to go from the place they were at. I arrived with plenty of time.

    Our bus was kinda funky. It was a sleeper bus with half seats half beds which were luckily just long enough for me and was fairly comfortable to lie on - only issue was that we couldn't sit up straight. Oh well. The breakfast was a bit difficult to eat on a bumpy bus half lying down but I made it work though I was incredibly stressed about the pot of soup spilling everywhere. I tied my trash in a bag and hung it on a hook praying the soup didn't go rogue.

    Just before the Vietnam border we had some complementary lunch. For being our last Cambodian meal it was also the worst. The rice was wet and boiled and the pork was like a well seasoned slab of leather. When we got to the border we all hopped off our bus with all our luggage and walked through. Starting by queuing in the regular line our guide told us to use the VIP line. That's how cool we were. After making it through no man's land and into Vietnam we boarded our bus again and headed towards Ho Chi Minh City.

    With no longer working SIMs we eventually got off and abused the bus companies WiFi to 1) find an ATM without withdraw fees 2) find somewhere to buy a SIM (unsuccessful) 3) order a grab to our accommodation.

    When we arrived at our accommodation our hope of a lovely 2 bedroom private apartment fizzled and we slowly walked into a rundown concrete apartment complex that looked likes God's toilet paper after a dodgy curry. We find our host and her first look is very confused. Bad sign. She takes us up another flight of stairs and opens up a small 1 bed studio. She says she can bring another mattress in and discount the price. Not wanting to find another accommodation at this time, we agreed. Atleast the room itself was fairly clean and seemingly bug free.

    She leaves and we laugh at the shithole we had booked. Atleast it was only for 1 night and we could find somewhere else for the next couple nights. We still hadn't got a SIM so we ventured to a local cellphone store and got a SIM each for pretty much no money. After that we were free to explore so we headed to the Bui Vien Walking Street which seemed to be the main street for bars and clubs. We chose the first place we saw and went for the inaugural local beer tasting - this time one called Tiger. It was okay and we sat right on the road for a while saying no to every person trying to sell us some trash.

    It was now time for food. Being in South East Asia I've been determined to try some cheap Michellin recommended / star food so I downloaded the app and selected "on a budget" and headed towards the closest place that served Pho - a popular Vietnamese noodle soup dish. It was pretty busy but we got seated and I ordered the classic beef. My review is... meh. It was good individually, the beef was soft and the noodles were even softer but the flavour was a bit plain. But I'm not the biggest soup guy so who knows. I did order a strawberry shake which was so so good.

    After that we headed back to our crack den where I fashioned a pillow for my floor mattress and after showering we got to sleep.
    Read more

  • Day 45

    March 21, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Phnom Penh Cat Café

    Admittedly I'm not proud but I ended up waking up at 2pm after last night's late night. So now I have no time to go to the animal sanctuary as I had planned. New plan: I was hungry and thirsty and I needed somewhere to chill so I Googled cat cafés in Phnom Penh and was pleased to find 4 different choices. Not knowing what I was looking for, I picked the closest one and rode over.

    I ended up paying way too much for a blueberry smoothie and they didn't really have any food so I just committed to being hungry and sneakily eating the snacks I had in my bag. Once I had ordered I had to chose a pair of socks to wear which was included with my entry fee. They were all cat based socks so I spent a while making sure I went for the right pair. I ended up with a brown pair with a cute little grey cat on it. After sanitising my hand I was allowed through the cat-lock (think airlock but with cats) and into the room. It was a fairly small room but that was okay as it meant the density of cats was even higher. I have no idea how many cats they had but they were all so cute. The first one I decided to stroke for a while I decided to call grub as he was a little grubby and wearing a little jacket.

    I spent 4 or 5 hours in total, spent between stroking the cats, taking their picture, doing Duolingo, and writing my blog. When I left I was very hungry as I hadn't ate anything but a few biscuits all day so first priority was a good dinner. I searched online and found a cheap taco place that was highly rated. I ended up only getting one as enough to fill me up would have sent me over budget. As Riel is a closed currency I had to get rid of as much Riel and keep as much dollars as I could as I couldn't exchange Riel when I got to Vietnam tomorrow. The taco was gorgeous, with the filling piling up much larger than the mini tortilla, it was lucky I ate it without any spillage.

    Still being hungry I headed to the night market to grab some noodles which were good as usual. Still having some money left over and fancying a dessert, I grabbed some ice cream. 3 littx1 qle scoops of chocolate, coconut, and tuti fruti served in a coconut. It was gorgeous except for some reason they put Iiteral sweetcorn as a topping which I very quickly took off. After that I headed to 7-11 to spend the rest of my money on some water and some snacks before heading back to go to bed as we were leaving early for Vietnam tomorrow.
    Read more

  • Day 44

    March 20, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Kampot > Phnom Penh

    After another early wakeup from the sun, I got out of my hammock and got ready to leave. Saying goodbye to the dogs, I hopped on my scooter and headed towards the rental place which I barely remembered where it was. After no inspection he gave me back my passport (phew) and I headed towards the bus office which luckily was only a couple minuted away for my bus which I was about an hour early for. I dumped my bag and went to find some breakfast. I ended up in a nice little café and went for some ramen and a brownie.

    We boarded the bus and headed towards Phnom Penh. Unlike some of my recent journeys, this was very uneventful. We arrived and I ordered a grab tuktuk to take me to my hostel as I didn't want to walk an hour. I was able to check in about an hour early, and rent a scooter directly from the lobby. I change into some trousers and ride out towards the Choeung Ek Killing Fields. The ride out was definitely interesting, but I feel as if I've adjusted to the chaos of driving in South East Asia. Not only was there loads of traffic, but the road was under construction so I was weeving betwen cars on a dusty gravel road all the way.

    When I arrived I paid $6 for the entry and audio guide and went round. This was the 2nd half to S21 that we went to a few days ago, and was where prisoners were sent to be executed. There wasn't as much to listen to or see as S21 and it was eerily peaceful but seeing the mass graves and the glass walled stupa filled with 1000s of skulls and bones was very somber. I grabbed a mango smoothie and sat for a while before riding back to the hostel.

    I was in dire need of a haircut as it had been about 2 months and the sides were getting pretty messy. I walked about and very quickly found a barber who would cut my hair for $2. I've actually never been to a barber before in my life so explaining what I wanted to a Cambodian barber was fun. I got the sides cut shorter and the top tidied and he did a pretty good job, except that he cut pretty high around my ears which was an interesting experience.

    I met an Irish lass called Vanessa in my dorm and it was both our first days here so we headed up to the rooftop bar / restaurant / pool together to explore a bit. I go for a swim which was really nice under the night sky with the colourful LEDs shining over the pool then go and chat with Vanessa for a while whilst enjoying a Cambodian beer. We head downstairs and play a couple games of pool where I make some incredibly lucky skillful shots but end up losing both games (because I am awful at pool). Getting hungry we walk towards the night market for some food, but it was almost 11.30 now and most places were packing up. We find one place who just were open enough to cook us some food.

    When we head back to the hostel the bar had closed. Being the old man I am, I was thinking it was a perfect opportunity to go to bed. Vanessa wanted to head to a bar for "1 drink" so I went along with it. 4 hours later it was 4am and we had met this guy from Savannah, Georgia who had lived in Vietnam for over 10 years and was full of so many interesting facts. He was also fairly drunk and kept buying us drinks and shots. The bartender was a super cool Welsh / Australian dude who let Vanessa pour some Baby Guinesses and let's people play whatever music they like. Throughout the night we talked about so many different things and listened to so much music I had never heard from so many times and genres it was pretty mad. I was tired by 2am but 4am is where I called the limit and paid my tab and headed back. After showering I fell asleep almost instantly.
    Read more

  • Day 43

    March 19, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Bokor National Park

    I'm writing this a couple days late and because I suck at remembering I'm sure I'm gonna forget alot.

    I woke up nice and early to the sun beaming down on me in my hammock. It was a surprisingly good sleep especially as I was so close to the guy next to me. I spent a while just chilling while everyone (dogs included) started to wake up and met Joe - the owner - I let him know that I wanted to swim with the dogs and he said let him get sorted and he would get the right dogs in the water with me. Eventually I didn't wanna annoy him any more so I just jumped in the water and went for a swim solo whilst some dogs watched me from the shore.

    Someone I had met offered to give me a ride into town on his bike so I didn't have to call a tuktuk. We rode in and met with someone else who had just returned their bike and went to find some breakfast together. We ended up going to this slightly expensive Mexican place where I got a breakfast burrito and a mango juice (was meant to be a shake but I messed up). This breakfast burrito was unreal- so many flavours I hadn't had in so long like salda and CHEESE. My first bit of cheese in so long and it was as beautiful as I had ever remembered.

    I then rented a scooter - giving my passport as the deposit for the first time ever while was a little scary- and headed towards the mountains. There was no phone holder so getting the mountain road was a little bit of a task but once I was on it, it was smooth sailing. The road was a nice one to ride on, with good turns and sights along the way. I got to a point where a monkey was chillin on the side of the road so the people infront decided to stop infront of me, making me have to quickly swerve out of the way. Luckily all was good.

    The first stop was a giant Buddha statue which had an entrance round the back with a ladder going up. I went up a little bit and sensing that I had overstepped, went back down and kept going along the roads. The next set of buildings were basically all abandoned from the times of the French colonies. The first was an old church, which was pretty basic but the view from the cliff behind it was quite relaxing - though to be honest it was super cloudy and I couldn't see much.

    I went on and walked around some more abandoned buildings - which to be honest was a bit creepy and eerie. I also climbed up the ladder of this concrete tower before getting sketched out and heading back down. I could have now turned around the way I came but I wanted some adventure. After some unsuccessful and dodgy off roading I decided to head down a different road to see where it would take me. With almost no GPS signal I headed down and found a place called 500 rice field which had no rice and just lots of small stone towers in a field. Very odd. I kept going and definitely ended up getting lost. With the option of turning back always available I kept going, passing a construction site before asking a passer by how to get to Kampot. He pointed in the direction I had already assumed and I went on my way.

    I stopped at a store to grab some snacks and then headed back to the hostel. When I arrive I decide to chill with the dogs (obviously) before meeting some other people and we decide to head into town for some food. We go to a recommended place and I order some ginger, garlic and onion chicken noodles which was divine, I absolutely adore the taste of ginger and garlic. We head back and just chill with the dogs until it was time to go to sleep. I had also found out that the guy who gave me a lift into town earlier caused a 5 scooter crash later that day where luckily no one was hurt but alot of scooters were damaged. I'm gonna be a bit more careful who I get on the back of for sure.
    Read more

  • Day 42

    March 18, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Koh Rong > Kampot

    After waking up and packing, I headed to the same place for breakfast as yesterday and ordered some French toast with honey and whilst waiting I grabbed a smoothie and a bottle of water. Alfie came and joined me a little bit after, this time without Daisy as apparently she was suffering the consequences of her sunburn. My food ended up being forgotten and I had to get it to go before I rushed to the pier to catch my ferry. Turns out the ferry wasn't there for another 15 minutes anyways so there wasn't a massive rush. This was the start of 4 days solo travelling and I was quite excited to be honest.

    I arrived in Sihanoukville about an hour and a half before my bus was due to leave so I wandered over to the bus company building and dropped my big bag off so I could chill for an hour beforehand. I grabbed a slice of pizza from a bakery and found myself a comfortable chair on the beach I could lounge on for a while. On my way back I grabbed a doughnut from the same place and got back ready to board. Turns out their "bus was broken" so we'd have to wait an extra hour for the replacement. I'm not sure how accurate this actually was as sometimes they say this to delay enough to pool a couple bus loads together if none of their busses are that busy.

    Eventually we get on and we start making our ways towards Kampot - a roughly 3 hour journey. We stop about halfway at a rest stop where I go to the toilet and grab an ice cream. We hop back on and as I'm the closest to the sliding door of the minivan I try and close it. Big mistake as I managed to break it. This wasn't entirely my fault, I think they were trying to fix it before we boarded but I definitely did something that pulled it out of its rail. After 10 minutes of our driver finally getting it properly shut, I vowed not to touch the door again. The 2nd half of the journey was super bumpy as the road was more of a gravel trail with lots of pits that our driver tried his best to avoid.

    When we arrived I was hounded by tuktuk drivers but I thought I'd rather do the 50 minute walk to save some money and take in the city a little bit. I arrived at my hostel after a walk along a main road and was very excited. This hostel had 2 cool things going for it. 1) I could sleep in a hammock which sounded awesome. 2) It had become a dog sanctuary for now over 40 dogs, and I love animals so I was so excited to spend time with all these dogs. 90% of these dogs had been rescued from some type of difficult past but they were now living a peaceful life at this hostel.

    I get talking to a few people (and meeting some of the dogs) and eventually I get invited to join them at a skate spot in the city which sounded awesome as I hadn't skated in ages. 2 of them ride over, whilst me and another get a tuktuk. We then chill at this large flat spot with a ramp, a couple rails and a platform dotted about. It was a good mix of locals and travellers and I got to have a go on one of their skateboards. In good news, I hadn't lost any of my skills I had a couple years before. In bad news, I hardly had any skills to begin with.

    Afterwards, much to my delight, we head and grab some food where one of the local guys who worked at the hostel ordered my food for me and mixed a good combination of chilli and other things. We then head to grab some juice and we head back to the hostel. A couple grabbed this selection of guava, apple, and unripe mango with different chili dips which I tried but wasn't a fan of the combination. I chatted with a couple other people (spending most my time on the floor cuddling the dogs of course) before I shower and head to my hammock. My hammock was super close to the guy next to me so I had to be careful not to adjust too much that I'd swing into him, but eventually I found a comfortable position and got some sleep cocooned in my hammock.
    Read more

  • Day 41

    March 17, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Koh Rong

    We headed to a restaurant close by for breakfast and we all ordered some French toast, turns out it was with slices of a baguette instead of bread but it was still beautifully cooked - especially with the chocolate sauce. I also grabbed a mixed fruit smoothie from the nice lady on the street which was as beautiful as ever - she's definitely perfected her craft.

    Afterwards, we were gonna rent a scooter to head to some other parts of the island but we decided to walk along the road in the other direction to yesterday to Long Set beach. I guess all the beaches are quite long on this island. After a very hot walk along this road we made our way down onto the beach which had a few more people than yesterday as their was a mad monkey hostel but it was still pretty chill.

    We basically spent the next few hours swimming, floating about, snorkeling and sunbathing. It was a very relaxing time which I spent trying to figure out how to get to the Alps this summer. Unfortunately I had forgotten to put suncream on my face so I had become like a tomato. I was lucky compared to Daisy who decided to nap laying down in the sun instead of the shade like Alfie and I - which lead to alot more burning than anyone would like. I did try and warn her.

    We grab some food slightly off the beach, and I grab some chocolate cookies which were melty but still yummy. We then walk back along the road which was alot nicer than the way out as the sun was almost set. Our plan today was to pay for the boat to go and see the glowing plankton which left at 7. We paid $7 each (which we should have haggled a bit for) and got on the boat heading out into the sea. We stop and are given snorkels and then the lights and cut and told we're good to get in. I took the initiative and jumped straight in. To be honest it was a little disappointing, but that's probably because the sun was still quite bright. There wasn't any magic blue glowing water but as you moved your hands around infront of you there were loads of little white glowing specs. After swimming around for a bit I started climbing the ladder and took my snorkel out. Forgetting it wasn't properly attached to my goggles it fell straight into the sea and sunk before I could rescue it. In good news I didn't have to travel with as much and we were done with island and beach travel for a while. Plus a snorkel was cheaper than the goggles.

    We get back, change into some dry clothes then head to "The Lucky Leprechaun" - an Irish Pub as it was St Paddy's Day and Daisy was half Irish. We asked for some Guiness but unfortunately they had none as it would have probably been fairly hard to get on a random Cambodian island. Instead I settled for some green dyed Carlsberg. We chilled on some comfy chairs on the beach listening to music whilst I planned my few days solo. Eventually Daisy and Alfie head to bed and I meet this nice 52 year old guy from London who was enjoying life to the max and happy to be here. Eventually I call it a night and head to sleep in a slight busier room than before.
    Read more

  • Day 40

    March 16, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Phnom Penh > Koh Rong

    After waking up, we packed and checked out before walking towards the travel office where our bus was leaving from. On the way we stopped at a small bakery for a little breakfast. When we arrived and checked in, the bus office was directly next to a shop which was much better than the one in Siem Reap. I got a drink and a decent size loaf of banana bread for surprisingly cheap. We boarded the bus and I happened to be sitting front and centre next to our driver. As we drove I chomped on my banana bread and became ready to wake our driver up as he kept looking like he was about to drift off. Luckily, he kept using his phone to keep himself occupied. I've officially decided I don't like buses in Cambodia.

    When we arrived in Sihanoukville we had to get down to the pier to get to Koh Rong. A very enthusiastic taxi driver was right on it when I got off the bus and was telling us 30,000 Riel to get to the pier, claiming a very hilly journey. Trying to get him to slow down and not wander off with Alfie's backpack I quickly checked the prices on Grab where a TukTuk was only 7,400. It didn't take long for him to agree to that price, so we go round the corner to see his falling apart car with more cracks than windscreen. For some reason he gets all 3 of us in the back than letting me sit in the front but it is what it is. He takes us to an ATM on the pier, as there were no ATMs on the island and Alfie and Daisy needed money. He happily waits around so I take the opportunity to ask him what happened to his windscreen and he said that he parked under a coconut tree and gravity did the rest.

    We arrive for the boat at the perfect time and paid $25 for a return. After waiting a little we boarded the boat and took the relatively short journey over, where I let Duolingo pass my time. We hop off the boat and go to our hostel which was directly off the pier - completely different to where the pin on Booking.com was. Oh well. We check in and luckily they cancelled our accidental double booking free of charge. Alfie and Daisy were in a private room but I was in a dorm. These were more basic than the dorms I had been in before, with no curtains and a grimy bathroom but there was only a few of us there and a couple hostel cats roaming about - one of then in Alfie and Daisy's room.

    We grab some water and lunch on the beach - finding some not too overpriced fried noodles. Koh Rong was semi famous for its glowing plankton but needed very little light pollution so we set our sights on Long Beach so we could catch the sunset and then hopefully catch the glowing plankton. There were 2 ways there - along the road which went in a big loop around the coast or a mystery path that went directly there. Feeling adventurous we headed towards the path on Google Maps hoping for the best. It started off okay until we were trekking uphill into the jungle with almost no sign of a path. We got a bit further up and found a bit more of a clearly defined path that headed in the right direction. This was definitely an adventure. Trekking through overgrown jungle following the feint beaten path, it was hot and I was doing this foolishly in sliders - not expecting to need my trail shoes. We must have spent about an hour walking through, where I kept thinking about all the possible bugs that could end up all over my exposed legs and arms.

    We get to our first sign of tourism, where we see a sign that says "Welcome to the Stone" which sat in 2 halves nailed to a tree on top of a stone. We could also now see the opposite coast and hear music faintly in the distance. After weighing up the different routes, we scrambled our way down this rock - finding the path once again. We had also spotted a few millipedes chilling which were funny but also a little freaky. After kicking a stone (which really hurts in sliders) we finally join the road and make our way onto the beach.

    The sand was insane - super white and fine that it literally crunches beneath your feet like snow. There was not many people on the beach but we still headed down to an emptier spot. We swam around for a while - refreshing to wash the sweat away and chilled as we watched the sun start to set and light up the sky. Chilling in a hammock I started to believe we might actually be in for a sunset for once as the sea shone amber. And as quickly as that, it fell behind a layer of haze / cloud (I don't really know) and it was gone. We wander a bit further down the beach to some deck chairs that were definitely not meant for us but the people in this nice private resort but we commandeered them anyways. In and out of the water we chilled till the sun set for real and it was dark. Unfortunately, with the moon and the resort there was probably still too much light. Fortunately though I finally got a response to my Jonathan Conville Alpine Course application, which was successful! But now I have the headache of getting there a week before I planned to solo.

    Giving up on our chance to see the glowing plankton tonight, we decided to head back - this time along the mostly flat and concreted road with street lamps along the way. Turns out I didn't need my headtorch after all. We eventually got back and went back for some dinner and a fruit smoothie. It wasn't long then till we went to bed. A quick side note, the water from the sink and toilet was yellow?! Disgusting!
    Read more

  • Day 39

    March 15, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    Toul Sleng Genocide Museum

    Today was a very somber day (on purpose) because we headed to one of the main sites of Phnom Penh. After grabbing some breakfast we got a TukTuk over and paid 10 dollars for entry and an audio guide which was worth every single penny. The Toul Sleng Genocide Museum was formerly a high school before being used as Security Prison 21 (S21) during the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975 to 1979. It was one of hundreds of security prisons across Cambodia that was responsible for the genocide of an estimated 2 million - or 25% - of Cambodians. After the downfall of the regime, it was turned into a museum to remember the atrocities.

    Obviously I didn't take any pictures and I'm not gonna go into alot of detail about what I saw, but we ended up spending about 5 hours following the audio guide, reading the information and seeing the artefacts. This prison was responsible for the torture and death of an estimated 20,000 people where citizens were forced to confess against their "espionage" against the Khmer Rouge. After their confession they'd be sent to the Choeung Ek Killing Fields to be executed. As you walk around the grounds and buildings, you see photos of victims, evidence of torture devices, clothing, cells, and alot of information about everything. To say it was a heavy day would be an understatement.

    Originally we had planned to go to the killing fields in the same day, but we spent longer than expected here and didn't want to rush around the killing fields, so we planned to come back in a few days after heading South to the islands. After leaving we were very hungry and thirsty so we head to a restaurant for some food and drink.

    With the rest of the day we don't do alot, we mainly focused on finding somewhere for laundry and then back to the night market for some dinner.
    Read more

  • Day 38

    March 14, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Siem Reap > Phnom Penh

    Our bus was booked for 11am and I woke up to Alfie opening my curtain and telling me it was 10.30. Shit I thought to myself before I chucked some clothes on and packed my bag as fast as possible. After about 5 minutes (which I thought was fairly impressive) I met them in the lobby and we checked out. Immediately outside we hollered a TukTuk to take us to the bus office - saving us an hour walk of time we definitely didn't have. We arrived with 15 minutes to spare and checked in. Whilst we waited for the bus to arrive I went on a search for food as I hadn't had breakfast but came up fairly short - only finding a small egg bun thing from a drinks stall.

    The ride was about 6 hours long as was fairly nerve-wracking. I'm not sure what it is about the bus drivers in Cambodia but they seem to test the limits of what makes me comfortable when it comes to overtaking. Luckily we were at the back so I couldn't see the road too much. Unluckily we were at the back so we could feel the bumps even more and our seats were higher so I had to make sure I didn't slam my head into the ceiling on the particular bumpy bits. Something I didn't anticipate for was for the bottom section of my seat to literally come detached from the chair and send me flying down the isle. After causing a bit of a stir and having all the Cambodians look at me laughing (hopefully with me and not at me), I change seat next to the window to hopefully avoid another incident.

    We stop a couple times, once at a restaurant where I grab a smoothie, and once and some stalls where I grab a weird crab pizza ish thing as I still hadn't ate anything properly all day. Alfie ended up not liking his so I scored most of his too. We arrive in Phnom Penh at around 4pm and walk 30 or 40 minutes to our hostel - passing some very official government buildings. Whilst we wait to check in, I notice a hot wing challenge - without any information of what the challenge actually was - I was committed to do it tomorrow. We get shown our room where I was on the 3rd level of a grid of beds.

    We head out to the night market and find the cheapest food we can find (for some reason Phnom Penh is much more expensive than Siem Reap) and sit on some mats on the floor where we figure out our next week in Cambodia. We then go on a search for a good dessert which for some reason was super difficult so we give up and head to 7/11 for some air conditioned snack browsing. We head back to our hostel and play some card games whilst listening to the end of their pub quiz which sounded much better than our one in Siem Reap. I pickup a bottle of water where I had a very interesting interaction with a British woman who had sprinted in from a TukTuk and demanded the clerk for their condoms - she ended up buying my water for me then sprinted back to her TukTuk. I then headed to bed after spending a few hours on the ascent of my ladder.
    Read more

  • Day 37

    March 13, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Angkor (Again)

    My first alarm went off at 4.45 and I eventually got out of bed at 5, as the plan was to leave at 5.15. Once I had gotten ready and gathered my things I head downstairs to the lobby, preparing to get called late for being there 30 seconds after 5.15. Turns out neither Alfie or Daisy was there. After checking the other lobby, I texted him and waited until 5.20 until I tried calling where it went to voicemail. Hmm. Waiting another 5 minutes I lightly knock on their door, then knock a little harder until a very tired looking Alfie opens the door claiming his alarm never went off.

    Feeling smug I wait for them to get ready we cycle towards Angkor Wat, hopefully catching sunrise. Given the sunsets being shrouded by clouds, there wasn't much hope for a good sunrise but we gave it a shot anyways. Riding with headtorches, light started to break as we arrived and we make our way across the Rainbow Bridge into Angkor Wat. Walking through the outer gate we see that there was alot of other people who were here for the same thing, so we found a wall to sit on and woke up a bit more as we watched it get lighter and lighter with no sun. Eventually, the sun rises above the layer of cloud / haze quite far above the horizon.

    Needing a good breakfast, we head towards the small section of shops and restaurants where we witness the fierce competition for the exact same menu. We were seated at the 007 James Bond table and I ordered some rice whilst Alfie and Daisy ordered pancakes and fruit - with the fruit coming underneath for some reason. We say no to people trying to sell us the same few things about 100 times before paying and heading towards the Wat.

    We do a perimeter around the walls and see loads of monkeys doing their thing (Daisy's first monkey experience) - with the highlight being the newborns hanging onto their parent's chests so they could get around. We head inside and wander around. The whole place was massive and very well maintained / restored and we could even go up the balcony and get a good view over the whole place, with a hot air balloon rising up not far from the Wat. On the cycle here we manages to avoid the heat but it was slowly getting hotter and hotter. We head out to the bathroom and apply some suncream where I buy my 2nd 1.5L bottle of water of the day.

    From the balcony we could see a temple on a hill in the distance so that was our next mission. Cycling over didn't take long but the walk up was definitely harder. It was a good trail up and not too long but with the heat rising and energy dropping we took a decent break halfway - passing a temple nestled in the jungle on the way up. We get to top and wander up and over the 5 layer pyramid. We come down and around the opposite side - accidently walking through the construction worker's base - as they all watch confusingly as we walk past their hammocks. It was incredibly awkward but eventually we get through and make our way back down the hill. By the bottom I was seriously low on energy and needed a sugary fruit smoothie to revitalise me, so I ordered a mystery fruit combo and it was such a good feeling. It was the level of ice cold that makes your chest hurt slightly as you drink it - which is very uncomfortable but worth it.

    We cycle back towards Angkor Wat and head towards a chain of other Temples we hadn't seen. We got some much needed lunch and another drink and after miscommunicating about the price, we headed out once again. I was revitalised 100% and on high spirits but shortly after I accidently took a wrong turn which meant that we took a trail through the woods instead of the road which was pretty awesome. Going along the sandy red dirt tracks on our mountain bikes through beautiful trees was the kind of riding I loved. We emerged onto the road at a ticket checkpoint where the dude was quite surprised to see that we had no guide with us. He wished us a good day and we went onwards.

    It was starting to get later in the afternoon and we had to get the bikes back in the evening so we quickly check out a few Temples and a decent sized lake. Our final temple was Ta Prohm, which reminded both Daisy and I of Temple Run, with the run down and overgrown temple with long corridors and many turns. We then set our sights back on Siem Reap. We decided to split up so I cycled solo whilst Alfie and Daisy went at a bit more of a leisurely pace. I returned my bike, got my 50 dollar deposit back and grabbed a beautiful piece of chicken from a street vendor and chowed down before showering off and chilling in the pool until the others got back.

    It was about 7 now and there was a quiz on at our hostel that night so we headed out to grab some food to enjoy whilst we hopefully dominated quiz night. I grabbed some fried noodles, beef and egg as well as a tub of oreo rolled ice cream with unlimited toppings. By the time we got back (at pretty much 8 on the dot) my ice cream was pretty much melted. The quiz started at 8.30 and I devoured both my noodles and my ice cream soup (whic hwas amazing by the way) it was time to quiz. 7 teams and 5 rounds, our first challenge was to pick our team name. Not being able to chose a good enough name we ended up not putting any name.

    After a general knowledge, true / false, Cambodian, celebrity baby picture and a music round, with 2 bonus rounds where me and Alfie had to pop 2 balloons with our backs, and then I had to shotgun a beer it all came down to the marking. We were pretty confident we were doing well until they started reading the answers and realised it had gone terribly. The answer I was most proud of was knowing Beethoven's Für Elise which the neighbour to our hostel had been playing a 5 second snippet of on repeat the whole time we had been here in a feud against the music from our hostel. It was petty and was driving me clinically insane - especially as I could here it whilst trying to sleep too.

    After realising we had lost to the group of drunk lads from Devon, it was time to retire and head to bed.
    Read more

  • Day 36

    March 12, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    Siem Reap Countyside

    Today was a (mostly) solo day and I was hyped. Firstly I could lay in as much as I wanted whilst Alfie had to go to the airport to pickup Daisy (more on that later). After having a beautiful lie in til 10, I went to find some breakfast and I decided to cycle South of Siem Reap towards Tonlé Sap - the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia. First things first, it was sweltering. The heat hadn't hit its max yet but paired with the humidity that Cambodia seemed to dominate Thailand over- I was a very sweaty dude.

    On the way, there was a temple that sat ontop of a 140m tall hill. This might not seem very high but looking around it was FLAT. Flatter than the notoriously flat Kent. If it wasn't for the haze (presumably from the Northern burning season) I'm sure I could have seen Kent too. This is why this seemingly small hill towered above the vast rice fields and small villages. A sign somewhere called it a mountain - which it definitely isn't - but given how much I struggled getting to the top I'm going with that.

    My first challenge was getting to the base of the mountain - my GPS was pretty spotty and its quite hard to navigate whilst the sun glares off your phone screen. Add the sting of sweat and suncream in my eyes and its a difficult combo. After finally finding the right road I made my way up the fairly gradual incline. Fairly gradual to my eyes but not my body. Holy shit I could barely move forward without having to stop to rehydrate and walk my bike up. I'm not exaggerating by saying that in the few minutes I sat down enough sweat had fallen on my phone that I couldn't use the screen any more. Cue 2 Spanish people casually making their way past me, seemingly without a single bead of sweat. This had me intensely questioning my plans for bikepacking this summer.

    After getting to the ticket checkpoint 2/3 the way up, it seemed that they had left their Angkor tickets at home and they couldn't go up any more. After composing myself once again I attack the rest of the hill, stopping one more time before eventually reaching the top. After yet another sit down in the shade I now had no hope for the summer - the only possibility of success being from the lack of humidity.

    I had the ruins of the temple almost exclusively to myself which made a very peaceful break, sitting on a bench amongst the trees overlooking the endless fields & surrounded by the sounds of nature. Eventually some local kids come to the trees near me - with a few strung together sticks - trying to knock peppers out of the tree. It wasn't long before the young boy climbed up the tree to grab them instead. I think seeing tourists is quite a novelty to Cambodian children as they're always very enthusiastically saying hello whenever you pass them. The view of the lake was okay but I could barely tell it was there with the haze.

    After thinking I had lost my earphone and spending a while searching for it, I had found it under my bike just as I had given up all hope of finding it. We take those wins. I cycled back down the hill in maybe a fiftieth of the time and effort and decided to cycle towards the lake. I took a back road through a very rugged dirt track which passes through a small village who definitely were living a very basic life - with nothing but fishing and farming in the area. Their houses were also built about 5 meters off the farmland on precarious wooden stilts - assumedly for the rainy season?

    I make it to a checkpoint close to the lake where it was revealed I wasn't allowed to cycle to the lake and had to get a boat tour if I wanted to see the floating village. Deciding against spending over 30 dollars for something I wasn't that interested in, I found a very small place for food where I enjoyed the small breeze from the ceiling fan whilst I ate some much needed lunch. After, I thought I had a few hours of daylight left to try and explore as much as I could so I really wanted to get out into the countryside. Finding a route with written directions online I headed back to Siem Reap to start my route - cycling along the very construction site esque "river".

    It wasn't long til I abandoned the route and just used Google maps to find the closest remote countryside that I could - not having the sunlight or energy to go any further. I followed a red dirt track and eventually chose a peaceful enough spot to sit and take in the start of the sunset through the thick haze. After lying on the floor and most likely getting ants in places I didn't want them - I sit up to the noise of lots of quacking. I then see that a farmer was taking a huge flock of ducks for a walk and was probably walking them back home - very cute. Not wanting to cycle back in the dark I left the peaceful fields of ox and plants and start heading back.

    By now I was exhausted and dehydrated nomatter how much water I drank so this was a massive slug. When I get back I change into my swimming trunks as quick as I can and shower off the layer of dirt and dust before cooling off in the pool. I chill for a while before getting out ready to meet up with Alfie and Daisy for dinner. After showing me their humongous room, we head out to the night market. After catching up with eachother I come to learn that Alfie managed to head to the WRONG airport to go and pickup Daisy. In all fairness Google Maps did him dirty and shows the recently closed airport as the only airport and the new one doesn't appear atall. Alfie thought he was gonna get scammed by the TukTuk drivers instead he scammed himself having to spend the money having to go from Siem Reap to the old airport to the new airport and back to Siem Reap.

    We eat, walk through Pub Street, head to a supermarket for even more water and head back to go to sleep ready to get up early enough to catch a 6.15am sunrise at Angkor Wat.
    Read more

  • Day 35

    March 11, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

    Angkor

    After living the 2 wheeled life in Thailand, it was time to mix it up. 2 wheels but no engine it was time for some cycling. After some waffles for breakfast (barely anywhere was open) we went to a local rental place and got a couple mountain bikes. It was either mountain bikes or a city rider - unfortunately no road bikes. I got mine for 3 days whilst Alfie got his for only 1, meaning I paid 4 bucks per day whilst he paid 5. Not wanting to leave our passports behind as a deposit we went to an ATM and got some money out and then we were good to go. With our bikes, helmets and locks we headed towards the Angkor site.

    Angkor is famous for Angkor Wat but the whole area has many Temples and buildings from the 8th to 15th century. People spend many days exploring the area so we brought a 3 day ticket and decided to check out some of the other Temples as we were waiting for Daisy to arrive before we went to Angkor Wat.

    Cycling past Angkor Wat's busy looking entrance we head further North and enter the Southern Gate of the large walls that enclose lots of ruins - with the Bayon Temple standing in the centre. Walking around the ruins was amazing. So many of the bricks had collapsed and a slow restoration project was underway but seeing the intricate carvings from hundreds of years ago around the maze like hallways was so interesting to see. Heading up and around the enclosed walls, there were loads of other ruins to see like Baphuon (a very cool pyramid), Phimeanakas (a slightly less cool but still cool pyramid), Terrace of the Elephants (honestly just a platform), and Tep Pranam & Prasat Preah Palilay (ruins enveloped by the jungle).

    Eventually all of the cycling in the sweltering heat and made us hungry and very thirsty, so we stopped in a restaurant where the vibe of Cambodia (or atleast the touristy areas) was cemented. From about 100m outside the restaurant, a lady basically runs after us to ask us to eat at her restaurant. Showing us a menu with items $7 a pop I was happy to say no but in an instant it became $4 with a drink included. We were back to the old Turkish haggling ways and I wasn't too happy about it. After a gargantuan meal which made us both feel as full as we ever had we decided to slowly make our way to the next temple.

    We headed North toward Prasat Preah Khan, another square micro city with a big moat and a big wall around it. This one had some information at the entrance which was really interesting to read about the history, the architecture, the decorations, and the restoration efforts. This place was even more maze like than the other, with hundreds of doorways and hallways linking together. Most had been blocked by rubble but it was still cool, with 4 main hallways leading to a small pillar right in the centre. Cambodia had apparently gone through different religious phases, with this temple being built in the brief Hindu phase by the King, meaning there was alot of different statues and decorations than there were in other Temples. We head out the West side and sit by a large square lake with a small square island in the centre. After cooling down a tad and appreciating the Cambodian love of squares, we head back to our bikes and cycle back to Siem Reap.

    Alfie returns his bike and I lock my bike to a brick wall outside the hostel and I go for a swim in the pool to cool down. Immediately I feel so much better without the sweat and suncream and I probably spend about an hour chilling, listening to the group of British holiday makers sitting by the pool. Eventually I dry off and we head to the night market for some food, where Alfie goes for a classic 2 mains as 1 just wasn't enough for his huge appetite. This time we were lucky enough to sit on normal size chairs. After, I try and find something sweet but it seems that the Cambodians don't really eat dessert. After passing an ice cream place for being too expensive, I went for a pancake with chocolate, expecting a similar roti to Koh Tao. I was wrong and definitely got what I paid for. I miss sticky mango rice.

    We head back (running into a small group of very enthusiastic happy ending massagers trying to sell us a good time), shower, and head to sleep. As Daisy was arriving tomorrow, we were doing completely separate things so I had nothing to wake up for.
    Read more

  • Day 34

    March 10, 2024 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    Bangkok > Siem Reap

    We woke up nice and early (this is becoming a habit now) and checked in for our bus. After filling out our immigration slips we went to 7-11 for a super healthy breakfast of a toastie and chocolate, with some snacks in the reserve. Our host / stewardess / whatever you call it was a lovely girl called Alex who was very clear about what the process of the day was gonna look like, especially with the border crossing & VISAs.

    It was about 10am by the time that we stopped at our first stop to pick up lunch - way too early for it but we met someone on our bus who just so happened to have graduated from Uni of Bath last year. What are the chances of that? We board back on and on the way to the border Alfie points out a couple "armed vehicles" going the opposite way (they were definitely tanks). When we get there the process was super simple - we were even given a lanyard with a map on. We get stamped out of Thailand, wait a bit in international waters before getting stamped into Cambodia with our eVISAs.

    Back on the bus, we make our way towards Siem Reap and arrive a few hours later. It was quite a long journey but that bus had free WiFi so I kept myself pretty occupied on YouTube for the whole journey. When we arrive, we hop off and head 10 minutes towards our hostel - being offered about 1 million TukTuks on the way. We check in and pay the ridiculously cheap rates for a bed (less than 4 pounds!?), sort our stuff and go out and about for a quick explore.

    We were a tad early for the night markets and some dude started chatted to me whilst Alfie was getting food. Turns out he ran a school for underprivileged kids and I ended up not having a choice but donating. Not really understanding the new currencies (they used both Riel and US Dollars) I ended up giving him 20,000 Riel which might sound like alot but was less than 4 Pounds. I brought some more suncream after being robbed at the airport, and we head to "Pub Street" and grab a 75 cents glass of Cambodian beer before heading back to our hostel.

    Alfie ends up calling his mum by the pool, where I head out and down the river for a "quick" Mother's Day call. 2 hours later I call my sister and we catch up before I grab some dinner. For some reason the Riverside Market has loads of cheap food but the chairs and tables are made for toddlers. Feeling like a giant I ate my first Cambodian meal and thoroughly enjoyed it.

    I head back to the hostel, shower, shave, and try to sleep whilst 2 Spanish girls (probably thinking they were being quiet) chatted away at a normal volume at midnight a couple beds away.
    Read more

  • Day 33

    March 9, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Phuket > Bangkok

    We woke up, I had a smoothie for breakfast, and then we checked out. We then realised we had absolutely nothing better to do than to sit in the cool lobby until we needed to head to the airport. After grabbing a small lunch of garlic bread (literally garlic and butter on white bread) and spring rolls we ordered a grab and headed towards the airport. The driver was on facetime to his wife the whole journey but it was a nice comfortable cool SUV so no complaints from me. We arrive and the driver gave all his change to us as he didn't have enough to break a 1000 bill then we headed inside.

    We check in Alfie's bag where the dude upgraded our seats to the emergency row and we headed towards security. Not having enough time to sort my bag beforehand I awkwardly try and get all my liquids and electronics sorted before heading through the scanner. Unfortunately, my suncream and aloe vera were too big and had to be axed. After forgetting my phone in my pocket, we explored the small domestic lobby of the airport, with the emptiest airport I had ever seen. With a strange red bannered Subway and a weird assortment of shops. We chilled for an hour before boarding started.

    I don't know why but we were in boarding in Zone C which meant we got to board first. We had decided that Zone C people we simply built different, the go getters of the airport, the real rise and grinders. Upon getting on the plane, my extra legroom seat was actually and extra extra legroom seat, with no seat infront of me atall. With absolutely nothing stopping me or my legs I enjoyed the little luxury. One downside is that my tray was about 2m infront of me and impossible to reach. Luckily, our super fancy high tech seats had trays inbuilt into the arm rest. I was truly living the poor man's first class. A short plane ride later and we land back in Bangkok. Feeling deja vu from 30 days before, it was extremely weird that Thailand was already almost done with.

    We get Alfie's bag, hop on the metro and take our ride to the last stop. A short walk in the lovely Bangkok pollution and we were meant to hop on another metro line that took us close to our hostel. Unfortunately, I cannot read and Google lied to me as it was a bus line instead. Seeing almost no difference in the ETA, I deicde we should walk the 50 minutes - something that I'm not sure Alfie was totally on board with. One sweaty walk later we make it to our hostel near Khao San Road and check in. Our hostel had a very strange vibe, being both quite nice arty place and a shit hole.

    It was now time for some food. After 1 month in Thailand having beautiful Thai cuisine for breakfast, lunch, and dinner - it was time to have 1 last proper Thai meal. Naturally we head to Domino's and order a large Hawian pizza to share. I know what you're gonna say - not only did I not go for a classic Pad Thai but I didn't even go for a Thai flavoured pizza? That's right, I have no regrets, it was one of the cheapest pizza and I have been craving some Western comfort food so leave me alone.

    We then head to 7-11 for some Western drinks - Alfie going for coke and me opting for Fanta. We then head to our hostel, shower and head to bed. Alfie then knocks on my curtain and says that something had leaked all over his shoes and socks and gave me a sopping wet sock to feel. Laughing at him I close my curtain and leave him to deal with the consequences.
    Read more

  • Day 32

    March 8, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Phi Phi Islands

    Honestly today was kind of a blur as I was exhausted and felt a bit ill all day so I'm gonna keep it short.

    Got some breakfast from 7/11 then got picked up from our hostel and headed to the port where we met out guide. Our boat was half English and half Russian guide so we definitely had a diverse group of people - most of which definitely weren't our age. After a long boat journey we arrive at Viking Cave and Phi Leh Bay. It was a nice view but the water was filled with so many exact same boats as ours. We did some swimming in a small section was okay but helped wake me up a tad.

    We then went to Maya Bay - famous for being in the movie "The Beach" which I had never heard of. It was a lovely bay but you couldn't swim in the water and was filled with 100s of people getting the exact same selfie for their Instagrams. We then headed to Phi Phi Don - the main island where people stayed filled with loads of hotels and restaurants. We walked a few minutes for a buffet lunch which I'm sure was okay but I had a serious lack of appetite so felt like I was force feeding myself. As I sat there I felt something on my foot, I kicked my foot and eventually it came off. I looked down to see what it was and to my horror it was a HUGE COCKROACH. Immediately I put my feet up on my chair and wanted to leave as soon as I could. I laid on the beach before we boarded our boat again and covered in sand, we headed to see Monkey Beach from afar.

    Our final stop was Khai Nok Island with a similar vibe to where we had been so far, beautiful and busy. I laid on the beach like a corpse wanting to be back at our hostel as soon as possible before washing the sand off in the small designated swimming area - passing a group of women singing half submerged - very odd. We make our way back to Phuket then driven back to our hostel. The day was okay, I'm sure me feeling terrible didn't help but I probably wouldn't do it again - even in sunnier weather. Special shoutout to the dickhead I had to sit next to on the boat the whole day (not Alfie) who insisted on spreading his legs as much as he could as often as he could.

    When we got back at 6pm I pretty much showered and got to bed straight away - opting for some snacks from 7-11 instead of dinner.
    Read more

  • Day 31

    March 7, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Phuket

    After a much need lie in, we moved out stuff downstairs to a shared dorm after a nice night in a private room. We didn't have much of a plan for the day so we headed out in search of somewhere to do our washing. We chuck our stuff in and head for breakfast. After a smoothie and some chicken and rice, we put our clothes on to dry and Alfie went for a haircut whilst I chilled at the hostel. With a much better trim than Daisy left him with, we picked up our washing, then headed to a local park by suggestion of our hostel owner.

    We had realised that staying in the Old Town meany that there wasn't alot to do, most tourists went to Patong as there were beaches and a bit more of an atmosphere but to be honest I didn't mind too much. The 3rd task (after washing and haircut) that we needed to do was to book our island tour for the Phi Phi Islands tomorrow. I say we but in all reality Alfie had already found the tour and booked it so I just sat there and agreed. Whilst he was doing this I had to record a short speech for why I wanted to be social sec next year in mountainairing. I would like to say this was quick and easy and I got it first try but that was not the case. After getting over the initial hurdle of talking to a camera I must have repeated it 10 times before I finally got a take that Iiked. Alfie, however, didn't so another 10 takes and I got one we were both happy with.

    We took a walk around the park, which seemed to be Phuket's running park - as evening came in runners flocked to running in circles around the lake. Next to us, this dude set up an industrial sound system then started singing his heart out - maybe to encourage the runners? This park also had 2 giant dinosaur models which I thought were awesome - Alfie wasn't as impressed. After forcing him to take my picture we went on our merry way to our next destination - a viewpoint on top of a hill.

    I wish we had rented a scooter as it would have made our journey alot shorter. 1 hill with a shitty footpath later we had made it to the viewpoint at the top overlooking Phuket with the Big Buddha statue sitting in the distance on a hill. I grab a smoothie and Alfie grabs a coconut and after getting attacked by bugs for a while we sat and enjoyed the view and the sunset (it was too cloudy for a good view) whilst some monkeys messed about on nearby cars.

    We head to grab some food at the Indy Market again and then head to sleep ready for our tour tomorrow.
    Read more

  • Day 30

    March 6, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Khao Sok > Phuket

    After waking up at 6am for our 6.30 morning safari I felt like a train had hiy me, but it was all worth it for being able to see the beautiful sky when I opened the door to our hut, still laying in bed.

    Our safari was okay, we saw some monkeys and some birds but honestly I was so tired I kept falling in and out of sleep even sitting on the hard wooden planks. Eventually we got given some binoculars which helped keeping me awake but not by much. We returned back at our camp where I went for a quick wake up swim before being treated to a lovely pancake breakfast with maple syrup and jam.

    We checked out of our huts and got back onto our longtail boat before reaching the original dam again. We said goodbye to our guide (unfortunately I never got his name) and hopped into a van headed towards a restaurant for a very early lunch. We sat by this nice bridge surrounded by fans and had a free 100 Baht budget to chose from.

    After what felt like way too long, our driver says its time to go and we headed back to HQ. It was about 1pm now and our bus was scheduled at 4pm, but there was another at 2pm which meant we were gonna try and go to the bus station and see what they could do. To our suprise, the lady at the desk called ahead and said if we could get there on time there was enough space for us to get on. She then arranged travel for us and we hopped in the back of a truck and we arrived. However, once arriving it turned out that apparently there wasn't space for the 2pm bus so we had to wait for the 4pm.

    After a boring wait, we made it onto the bus and it definitely was far from luxury. The AC barely worked and there were alot more people than seats. So after sweating my ass off on the leather seats, drinking water than had been heated by God knows what, half the people get off which let's me move seats and stretch out a little for the rest of our journey.

    We get into Phuket just before 8, and having been told that busses into the Old Town were finished for the day we order a Grab and make our way to our hostel. There had been a slight mixup with our room but it meant that me and Alfie got a private room to ourselves for 1 night all it meant is that we had to share a bed. I saw this as an upgrade though I'm not sure Alfie agreed. The bed must have been a Super King as it was the size of 2 singles. We dropped our stuff and headed to Phuket Indie Market to grab some food. At this market they had a very enthusiastic dancer on stage with the musicians which was so funny I could barely watch.

    We headed back and it wasn't long before I had showered and passed out as I was that tired.
    Read more

  • Day 29

    March 5, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    Khao Sok National Park

    After waking up bright and early for our breakfast, we head to "Our Jungle Camp" HQ and wait for our van to be ready to leave. We drop our bags and board the minivan and head towards a 7-11 to grab and water and snacks we needed for the trip. A short trip onwards and we arrive at Rajjaprabha Dam where we meet our guide for the next 2 days. After paying our fees we eventually board our longtail boat and head into Cheow Lan Lake.

    Cheow Lan Lake is a 185 square kilometer man made lake. In 1987 they built a massive dam and flooded the forest for hydropower, flood control, and fishing. This lead to a beautiful clear lake with towering cliffs and jungle both in and around it. Our longtail boat took us through part of it, until we reached our small village of floating raft houses. There was a clear scale of luxury as you looked along. Me and Alfie were staying in their basic package, a small bamboo house with mattresses on the floor and mosquito nets (which for me is still plenty enough) but others had fancier materials, with bed frames, and ensuites.

    The little village had more amenities than I expected, with toilets, showers, and even electricity during the day. First things first we put our stuff in our little hut then I stripped down to my swim suit and jumped straight into the water. It wasn't long until I was diving, front flipping and back flipping from the walkway into the water. The walkway however, felt like fire as it had been baking in the sun all day, so you either had to be very quick or wear flip flops. On my 2nd attempt of a backflip I got a little close for comfort to the walkway and Alfie banned me from any more flips.

    It was lunch time, where were served to a beautiful mix of rice, noodles, vegetables, fish, and omelettes with mango and dragon fruit to finish off. Even better is we could have as much as we wanted. After lunch, we headed straight for the kayaks where I was expecting to have one each, but Alfie wanted to go for a 2 in 1. This was a mistake. When I kayaked before it had been easy to control, but with 2 people it was chaos. At first we tried padding together but we couldn't go 5 meters before we meandered uncontrollably to the side. We eventually turn back and go back to swimming before it was time for our afternoon activity.

    We head back on the longtail boat to a section where there was a short hike before we would enter a cave. When we landed, the first warning we got was that there were wild elephants on the path yesterday and if our guide saw any elephants, or recent evidence there was a 2 step plan. Step 1: be very quiet. Step 2: run as fast as we could back the way we came. Very exciting.

    Along the trail to the cave, our guide pointed out various animals and plants along the route, even showing us the tracks for where elephants had walked, bamboo they had eaten, and trees where they had itched themselves. We're then taught some basic Jungle survival, and he showed us that with a "small knife" (it was a machete) you could get water from young bamboo, as well as find "bamboo worms" for a small snack. He then pulled some barely alive white worms from his backpack and asked if anyone felt hungry. With no one else volunteering, I thought "might aswell" and went for it. Feeling the poor little guy explode in my mouth wasn't a nice feeling. Neither was his chewy little body.

    We eventually make it to the cave where we are handed headtorches and warned about the many many big spiders that called the cave their home. Deciding to wear my big boy pants, I ventured down. Oh my god they were fucking massive. Disgusting little spindly creatures I can't believe I got as close as I did to the. By close, it wasn't close atall, I made sure I socially distanced as much as I could from those things, treating them like patient 0 of COVID-19. As we get deeper we see hundreds of bats flocked on the ceiling squeaking away. We turn back and it wasn't until we had left that I realised how tense I was.

    We wander back down the trail and board our longtail boat, ready for an evening "safari". I'm gonna be honest I'm not sure if our guide just didn't see any animals to point out but it was more of an evening snack eating festival. I'm not complaining of course I love snacks. We had dried rice crackers, banana in sweet sticky rice, and oreos taking in the serenity. That was when the massive diesel engine wasn't blaring.

    We get back to our floating raft houses and after another swim, it was time for dinner. It was similar to lunch, but we had a full on fish that had been fried and put on a plate. With none of us knowing how on Earth to eat this thing, we just started cutting small chunks off as best we could. I was terrible at this and almost ate maybe 5 small bones. The table next to us evidently had some experience as they had a perfectly meat free fish skeleton still intact. After chatting to a Canadian dude about travelling in Canada and Africs, we went to bed ready for our 6.30am safari.
    Read more

  • Day 28

    March 4, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Railay > Khao Sok Village

    After grabbing another Thai omelette from our regular place on Tonsai, we go back to our hotel and pack, as well as apply for our Cambodia VISAs as it won't be long now till we're done with Thailand! How sad. One thing I had noticed about today was that it was hot and humid. Eventually we leave and make the walk through the jungle from Tonsai to Railay with our big bags. With the heat this was extremely uncomfortable and the new priority was to find somewhere in the shade with a fan. So, we go back to old faithful and go to the restaurant we were at yesterday and I order even more food and a ice cold watermelon smoothie.

    Eventually we head to the pier and grab a longtail boat over to a pier in Krabi, ready to wait for our minivan to Khao Sok. After being eaten alive by bugs, we realise we were in the wrong place and head to the right place to wait. The air was uncomfortable to exist in, with temperatures as high as 35° but feeling like 42° so you can imagine the relief of sitting in an air conditioned minivan. After lots of diversions to pick and drop people off, we get to Khao Sok and we walk to our hotel and check in. Somehow we had scored 2 double beds. Downside is the bathroom smelt like human shit.

    We head out for some food where I get some beautiful yellow noodles followed by the biggest portion of mango sticky rice I've ever been given. We head back and shower in the stinky bathroom then head to sleep. Around 2.30am I had my mosquito net fall down and smother me, so that was interesting to put back up.
    Read more

  • Day 27

    March 3, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Railay

    We went for some breakfast next to our resort, then headed to the Rock Shop, meeting Austin (from Koh Tao cliff jump) there. We rented some sport climbing gear from a seemingly reputable store and headed over to Railay, as apparently Tonsai was all super hard. After a short trek through the jungle, we had arrived on Railay West Beach. We headed up a path until reaching a crag called Diamond Cave.

    This crag was recommended by the dude at the climbing shop for some nice easy climbs. It wasn't in the most aesthetic of places and had lots of beginner classes but it was nice to ease back into rock climbing outdoors, having not done any since October. I got a couple leads in on some easy routes before we headed more towards East Railay and stopped for some lunch. After lunch, we headed towards a couple crags called One-Two-Three and Muay Thai but it was the peak hotness of the day and it was chock a block with people so we decided to head towards Phra Nang Beach instead.

    This was an amazing idea as upon getting onto the beach we were met with an immense towering overhanging cliff with massive limestone stalactites hanging from the ceiling. A family that we met at Diamond Cave suggested a couple routes for us to try but warned us that the heat would make us feel like death. Both routes were fantastic 3D chimney style coming in and out of the strangely formed rock. From the top of the routes, being disgustingly sweaty was made up for 10 fold from the amazing view of the beach, overhanging cliff above, and the islands. The beach was named after a Hindu woman where there were a couple shrines dedicated to her next to where we were climbing. What was interesting about these shrines is that there were hundreds of wooden penis dug into the sand and piled up next to the statues of her. This had something to do with fertility but I saw lots of people having a lot of fun taking pictures with the field of dicks.

    Eventually the heat was too much, and a swim was much needed. Instantly, I was cooled down to a human level one again. Austin and I swam over to the next bit along and went exploring round the rocks. We met an Aussie called George and after chatting for a bit he jumped off the rock into the water, only guessing it was deep enough. We thought fuck that and climbed back down the way we came. We wandered a bit further down the beach for sunset and eventually grabbed our stuff and headed back to the same restaurant we ate lunch at for some dinner - this time I grabbed shrimp fried rice served INSIDE a pineapple.

    It was then that I realise I had lost my hat. We assumed I had left it at Diamond Cave so we went back to search for it. Secretly I hoped it was lost so I could have an excuse to buy a nice Patagonia knock off but another part of me liked the history me and my dirty, sweaty hat had gone through. After a quick search I couldn't find it, and it wasn't until I was about to give up and planning its obituarythat I saw it hiding under a bush.

    We then wander back to Tonsai, awkwardly scrambling through the jungle with nothing but our phone's torches. We return the gear and head back to our hotels, wishing Austin good luck on the rest of his travels if we didn't bump into eachother again. It was at this point that after a full day of drying, my portable charger still wasn't working and I had declared it officially dead - which is very annoying as its one of my most useful items I own. Priority number 1 was to find a good replacement. After a much needed shower it was time for bed.
    Read more

  • Day 26

    March 2, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Krabi

    I woke at about 4am, still on the side of a ship. Surprisingly it was actually quite a cosy sleep, the ambience of the ocean breeze and sounds sends you to sleep quite nicely. If only I had more than 4 hours of sleep though. We hop off the ferry and wait for our transfer to the van office, where we wait a bit longer before eventually boarding a van around 6.30. The van wasn't too bad and I may have slept a bit but I can't super remember.

    We eventually land in Ao Nang at 9ish and after checking the longboat schedule, we find some real food for breakfast having had nothing but snacks for the last 12 hours. A stacked plate of chicken fried rice filled me up and I was ready to go. We brush our teeth in the public loo and get our small bags ready and go to find a place to rent a scooter. Dropping our bags off at the scooter place, we rent 2 Honda Scoopy's and we head off to the Tiger Cave Temple.

    This drive was fairly fun, driving past the huge limestone cliffs and caves, until we reaches a traffic diversion that Google wasn't aware of. Using my expert navigation (I selected another route on Google Maps), we got past and arrived at the bottom of the Tiger Cave Temple. The main attraction was a giant gold Buddha statue at the top of 1260 stairs up a mountain. I was quite looking forward to powering up them. Then disaster struck. I started to feel by back getting wetter and wetter. I hadn't screwed on my bottles lid properly and it had leaked into my bag. Not too much had leaked but it had gone directly over my portable charger and earphones. Disaster aside, we pushed onwards, passing sweaty and out of breath visitors. Sweat and suncream dripped down my whole body and I was pushing my lungs to their limits but eventually we got to the top in about 24 minutes, averaging just under 1 step a second - not quite beating the fastest known time of 9 minutes.

    The top had somewhat disappointing views but was still nice nonetheless, but my lack of sleep was starting to catch up with me. We chill for a while, before we head down. I opt for the quick and somewhat risky gallop, making it down in maybe 5 or 10 minutes with only my knees suffering the consequences. After watching some monkeys for a little while, Alfie makes it down and we head to check out some caves further along. A nice circular nature trail through the jungle lead us past some monk's huts, some small caves and some massive trees.

    We head back to the main square and get some Thai tea and then try and get some food before leaving but the food hadn't even started cooking for 15 minutes. Whilst waiting I spent some time watching the monkeys mess about with stolen food - including one of them drinking out of a coke can as if they were straight out of an advert.

    We then make the very not fun journey to the Emerald Pool, an hour drive with most of it on a terrifying dual carriage way. Eventually we arrived and it was time to quickly pay our parking and get there before it shut. We hastily make our way down the 1km trail and arrive at a very Emerald coloured pool filled with kids. It's as if every local takes their kid to the Emerlad Pool instead of a swimming pool. We quickly check out the Blue Pool, a very blue natural hot spring with no swimming allowed, with temperatures between 40 and 50 degrees. The Emerald Pool was just downstream from this hotspring, so we head back and go for a quick dip before quickly making our exit, with no time to grab lunch as we needed to drive an hour and a half back, return our bikes and grab a boat to Tonsai before 7pm otherwise we were stuck on Ao Nang.

    Cue the most anxious riding of my life, not because of safety but because of time, seeing the ETA slowly creep up as we hit more and more traffic. Luckily we get back and our deposits were returned with enough time for us to board a longtail boat to Tonsai. Sweaty, thirsty, and hungry, we tread through the water with everything we own on our backs and get on the boat. 15 minutes later, with the sun fully set we land on the rocky low tide of Tonsai beach. It felt as if we had landed on the beaches of Dunkirk, having to wade through water avoiding the rocks digging into our feet before we finally made it to shore. Our journey was not over yet though. With Google telling us to follow a non existent road up to our resort, we went off road until we hit an imposing concrete wall with seemingly no way over (unless you're Google in which case walk straight through). In one direction there was no luck, and having spotted some fallen trees we had a backup option to scale the wall with. Heading back on ourselves we eventually find a ladder staircase that went up and over. Giving immense Berlin Wall vibes we climbed over and found our resort before checking in.

    We check in and go for a quick swim under the stars, surrounded by no one but couples in this seemingly romantic resort . Quenching our thirst, we buy some ice cold water from the shop (literally it was a frozen block of ice) and head to a restaurant for some surprisingly reasonably priced food. Alfie, having missed lunch, decided on 2 mains, a burger (spelt berger) and chips as well as a Thai dish. His eyes proved bigger than his stomach as he gave up halfway through his 2nd dish, claiming nomatter how much he ate it didn't go down.

    We head back for a shower and shave (this time much faster than my 1st attempt), then head to bed where I had a very puzzling conversation with Alfie sleep talking about "Queen Dough" whatever that means.
    Read more

  • Day 25

    March 1, 2024, Gulf of Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Mango Bay

    After waking up to Alfie telling me I had 30 minutes before checkout, I quickly put together my stuff and we checked out, storing our bags not so securely at our hostel. Alfie had returned his bike that morning, having to pay 3500 Baht for someone else knocking over his bike and scratching it - ouch. We wandered down the beach and we found a restaurant overlooking the beach for some breakfast. We both got a very peculiar "breakfast burger" which was a half deconstructed beef and egg burger with various veg. Strange but highly rated - plus maybe the first time I've ate a burger with a knife and fork.

    After that me and Alfie split up, he had already been to Mango Bay whilst I was diving. First I did some shopping around for a snorkel mask and a GoPro casing. I land on a midrange snorkel as I knew I was going to use it for a while, and find a decently rated case that let's me take my GoPro down to 30m which would be more than enough. I then rent a scooter from our hostel where she took a 3 minute long video of the condition before I set off.

    This was most definitely not a simple approach. There are options to take the boat round but I went for the spicy option. First I had to take my bike half off roading which was very interesting with dodgy brakes going up and down steep dirt trails, dodging rocks. I had definitely not been pumping my brakes as one of them was quite slack after a while - quite worrying so I took it very slowly. Eventually after reaching the end of the track - I had no signal and Google Maps had given up by then.

    I follow 100s of stairs downwards before reaching a scrambling section through a boulder field round the edge of the bay. This was fine but would have been a hell of a lot easier had I not been carrying a snorkel in 1 hand and wearing nothing but sliders on my feet. Eventually I make it to the beach and sit on a sunbed. I see I still had signal and needed to try and contact Alfie so I made my way up to the restaurant with the promise of WiFi, so I ordered a mango shake only to be told it doesn't work. Putting my thousands of pounds of student debt for a computer science degree to good use, I guessed the password on my first attempt. Feeling quite smug about "12345678" I was quickly humbled again when it really didn't work in the slightest. Oh well he'll figure it out.

    I set up my snorkel - having no idea what I was doing and put it to use almost immediately. Someone on the sunbed next to me suggested I go to the left hand side with my snorkel so I went for a swim and it was amazing to see the fish and coral that were so close to the shore. I swam back to set up my GoPro in its new casing and went back out to grab some photos and videos of the colourful parrot fish, stripy banner fish, yellow butterfly fish, and what I believe to be some small barracuda.

    After a while I head back, chat to a Chilean guy called Pedro before heading out again - not seeing as much on the other side of the bay. After heading back, it was time to make the trek back as I didn't want to drive in the dark and wanted to make sure Alfie's bookings had gone well. I make my way back along the rocks, made even harder this time as my feet were wet and sliding around in my sliders. Then, up the 100s of stairs I had flown down. Smartly, near the top where I had paid for entrance they sold drinks as well, where I had no choice but to get some much needed water as by now I was sweating like I had been on a run. I get back on my bike and make my way back up the dirt track, being careful not to end up in the surrounding jungle, eventually I make it to the main road.

    A jeep attempted to go down the road but soon after reversed back up having realised its mistake. There was a random dude who was gonna pay this taxi 300 Baht just for a 5 minute drive down the hill, so I offered him to just jump on the back. Apprehensivly, he agreed and asked me to go slow which I happily obliged with - I'm not the biggest fan of riding with a passenger as it throws the balance and weight off completely. I drop him off then drop my bike off getting the okay for conditions - luckily she didn't try the brakes.

    I meet with Alfie and after getting gnawed by mosquitos, we go for some dinner where I go for a Spaghetti Bolognase (very Thai I know) meaning both my meals today were super Western. Although everything was super expensive, so this was a money saving move more than anything. It was a yummy Spaghetti and Alfie made fun of me but I have no regrets. We then pick our bags up from our hostel where I sneakily go for a shower and we grab some snacks from 7-11 before boarding our night ferry.

    Last night when I booked our ferry it got cancelled so I had to book with another company who happened to not have any pictures so it was a risk but we had no other choice. Upon boarding it was extremely obvious why they had no pictures. Small bunk beds and thin mattresses lined the floor and I thought to myself- it can't get worse than this. Spoiler alert - it did. The dude showed us that we were infact sleeping outside of the boat on the floor of a narrow walkway. It's a hilarious situation that to me is all part of travelling but I'm not sure Alfie had the same perspective.

    I chatted to some fellow boat mates about how funny it was before settling into my short mattress (having to climb round the outside of the boat to get to my bed). On the negative side, we had no space or AC BUT on the positive side, no one could walk over us and the ocean breeze was our natural AC. I lie here now actually quite enjoying the peace of the breeze, sound of the waves, the night sky, and the occasional spray from the water.

    Also, my pictures are all stuck on my GoPro still so you'll have to wait to see my expert marine photography.
    Read more

  • Day 24

    February 29, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    SCUBA 3

    After a devastating first alarm at 4.30am, reminding me fondly of my time at M&S, I begrudgingly got out of bed and packed trying to be as stealthy as possible to not wake anyone. I walk in the dark down to the dive centre, walking past the last few people at bars, where all of a sudden we reach a lively gathering of 20 ish divers ready to go for a morning dive. I say lively but in reality I was just feeling like a corpse compared to the rest of the who probably got more than 3 or 4 hours of sleep.

    I get given my chicken, egg, bacon, lettuce, tomato and ketchup sandwich which was lovely and big enough I couldn't eat it all straight away. We head onto the boat and watch the sun peak over the island. Today we head to a site called Hin Pee Wee first, where there's now 5 of us, Mika our instructor, Jani our divemaster in training, Claudia, me, and a new guy who is also a divemaster in training so he was leading. Our first dive went okay. But we descended too fast for me to equalise properly so I had to faff around ascending and descending and my ears didn't feel quite right for the rest of the dive. Add the residual numb pain from yesterday and my ears were not a happy bunny. We went round some rock pinnacles, where at some point I went too close and almost crashed into one, getting stabbed in the finger by an urchin.

    After a surfacing and a short debrief we waited for about an hour, where I had a small nap awkwardly on an air tank. We move to another close site called No Name Pinnacle, where there was a ship wreck. We could only dive to 18m and that's where the shipwreck started but it was still cool to see it. Also, this was definitely the best dive I had done, my equalisation was good, my bouyancy was super controlled and I had no problems. The shipwreck was super cool, being able to see the turret of a ship with small fish using it as their home was pretty cool, plus Jani was taking pictures with his GoPro so we have some really cool pictures of us diving.

    After surfacing, heading to shore, and cleaning our equipment, we log our dives and get our certification! We then get to chose a free t shirt which was awesome but also 100% cotton so 100% to warm to wear here. I then head to the beach for a while and meet up with Alfie where we spend a couple hours trying to plan our onward travel. Now instead of going straight to Khao Sok, we're heading to Krabi on a night ferry tomorrow.

    We head to a viewpoint called John-Suwan on the South of the island which had a beautiful view of the island with a bay on the left and to the right. After a while we head back down the scrambling path where we find that someone had knocked over his bike and it was now scratched on one side... goodbye deposit. We drige to the restaurant that my diving instructor runs with his wife, and I drop Alfie off and steal his scooter to head to Top View viewpoint to meet with Claudia. The road up was steep and a bit scary so eventually I parked up and walked the rest, going barefoot so I didn't slip out of my sliders. After ascending Everest, I paid 100 Baht to the nice lady who built the viewpoint and got given a free drink to enjoy the sunset with.

    I meet a Canadian guy called Ryan, a Scottish guy called Jake, and an Austrian guy called Cristoff and we chatted for a while before deciding to head down and grab some food together at the same restaurant I dropped Alfie at earlier. Jake left earlier so he didn't join the 4 of us but it was really nice. I was going to go for Mika's Finnish meatballs and mashed potato but they had no potatoes (unheard of as a Brit) so I went for a bamboo shoot curry with rice.

    Eventually we head back to our hostels for a shower and meet again at a bar on the beach, with Ryan's friend too. After a couple beers and lots of chatting (making me feel super young as they were all about 30), my 6am dive was catching up to me and we head home to sleep.
    Read more

  • Day 23

    February 28, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    SCUBA 2

    Wake up, pack, grab some fruit with yoghurt and muesli and head to the dive centre - you know the drill. After filling up both my water bottles (our hostel doesn't give free water) we head up to the classroom for the start of day 2 of our open water diving course. Originally our exam was meant to be after this classroom session but having told Mika that I only had half the content, he said I could study it over lunch and we could do it at end of the day.

    We go over more theory and rules of diving, which was a bit harder for me today as I wasn't able to see the content beforehand but still we persevered and it made the content that I had already seen alot more clear as it wasn't just a block of text on my phone. The content today was more focused on decompression, and understanding that the deeper you dive the longer you have to stop at different levels on the ascent to balance your nitrogen levels in your body and blood stream. We then have a very early lunch about 11am where I went back to the same restaurant as yesterday with Claudia this time and I ordered some spring rolls and a fresh coconut whilst going over my brand new content. The spring rolls were tasty but the coconut was even better - being able to drink the water straight out the shell then eat the flesh with a spoon whilst sitting next to the beautiful beach under a palm tree was pretty sweet.

    Content rushed through and food devoured, we headed back and grabbed our boxes of gear and headed to the small boat with the rest of the people going for an afternoon dive, to the bigger boat where we took a short trip from Sairee Reef where we dived yesterday to Twins Pinnacle, which was just off of Nang Yuan Island - directly next to Koh Tao. After some water and biscuits from the ship, we prepare our gear and do our buddy checks before stepping off the boat into the water. It was similar to yesterday where first we went over the same skills, including clearing the regulator of water, clearing our mask of water, and sharing air with your dive buddy if they run out. This time we also added removing our buoyancy compensator vest and a self rescue. Highlight of this was seeing a crab that looked like a rock that we were doing our skills next to that we had to move away from rather quickly as it turned out its fairly poisonous.

    We hop back on the boat and have a small break before changing tanks and going for a real dive. I forgot to mention we also had another Finnish dude with us who was completing his dive masters course so was helping out too. In the water the first half went quite well, my buoyancy was fairly controlled and my equalisation wasn't too bad (my damn left ear just doesn't equalise for some reason). We swam past lots of coral and schools of fish - it'd be hard to name them but looking a couple meters to your side and seeing hundreds of fish swim together was pretty cool. The main issue is that whilst learning you focus so much on breathing and buoyancy and equalisation that sometimes you forget to take in your surroundings.

    On the way back though I just couldn't equalise my damn left ear so had to spend a while ascending and descending before it felt even okay ish. This also took alot of focus off my breathing and buoyancy so I was alot less in control. I'm not sure how deep we dove but the max we were allowed is 12 meters so I'm sure it wasn't far off. We eventually surface and my ear returns to normal but there was definitely some residual pain which probably means damage...

    We boat back to the dive centre where we take a multiple choice 50 question test. It went decent but some of the wordings were a bit difficult to wrap my head around. After Mika scanned through each test in about 10 seconds, it's clear he was doing it from memory which was quite funny. I got 2 or 3 wrong on the test which isn't too bad - it's a pass (I think?).

    I meet back with Alfie where he picks me up on his scooter and we head to the West side of the island (we were staying on East) - only taking about 10 minutes. I hate being on the back as you have no control but it is what it is. We park up at Ao Tanote Beach which has one of the best cliff diving spots in Thailand. In the middle of this bay lies this large rock (I forgot to take a picture!) where a short swim through the most rapid water I've seen in Thailand - brings you to a small scramble before a rope needs to be climbed before getting to the top. Getting out of the water was definitely the hardest bit as the rush of the waves push you away from the rock and if you time it incorrectly might throw you into another. The rope climb wasn't too bad but at the top I met Austin (from the USA) and Anshul (from India) where it was all our first time on this rock. Poor Anshul had taken 3 attempts to get to the top and had left a small trail of blood from the scrapes.

    After catching our breathes from the swim, we chatted for a bit before Austin took the lead and made the first jump, I followed 2nd and Anshul went 3rd. The jump says online anywhere between 5 and 12m but I'll go with roughly 10. It was scary taking the leap but that's really what its all about. After hitting the water I surfaced and was super happy with the landing. We swim around and climb back up, this time chatting for even longer before making the jump again and swimming back to shore before sunset.

    We join Alfie at the restaurant on the beach and the 4 of us chat for a couple hours whilst eating some food. They were both really cool guys and I hope to see them both again. Me and Alfie scooter back to Sairee, grab another roti before I sat down to write before heading to bed.

    Another sorry for the massive lack of pictures today, being in the water all day doesn't lend itself to taking alot of pictures.
    Read more

  • Day 22

    February 27, 2024 in Thailand ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    SCUBA 1

    It's a day late but that just means you get 2 posts in 1 day!

    After an 8am wakeup, I pack my bag and head down the beach towards Koh Tao Divers, grabbing a pot of mixed fruits, yoghurt, and muesli. Upon arriving I meet my dive master, a Finnish dude called Mika and my dive buddy, an Italian girl called Claudia.

    First we did some classroom stuff where he went over the basics of what we'd be doing today, as well as the number 1 rule of diving - never hold your breath. The main danger of diving is the pressure difference between the air that you breath and the water so if you hold your breath between depths then your lungs can expand and contract too much and cause alot of damage.

    After our classroom session we go for an early lunch and I sit in a restaurant close to the beach and enjoy a pizza and coconut smoothie watching the sea - which I think has been my first Western meal since travelling. I then head back and we grab our gear from the store room. I grab a mask, dive shirt and flippers - as well as a buoyancy compensator (inflatable vest), regulator (connects tank to stuff, regulating air pressure), air tank, and a weight belt (to weigh you down). We get shown how to set up our gear then we head down to the beach (about 10m away) and hop in the water and go through some basic skills - such as breathing through the regulator, clearing your mask of water, and buoyancy control.

    After some practice, we head on our first dive where we went down to a depth of about 6m which doesn't seem like alot but looking up at the water level you feel very submerged. It was amazing to float (not quite effortlessly yet but I'll get there) and glide past coral and fish. The funniest fish I saw was called a trigger fish which looks as if a cartoonist was told to draw a stereotypical English fish as its teeth were so goofy looking. I wander if they do invisalign for fish.

    After seeing the rain hit the surface of the water above us, we eventually surface when our tank pressure hits a certain point, which must be done slow and controlled as not to suffer from decompression sickness. When we surface we walk onto shore and all of a sudden the feeling of weightlessness is replaced with the feeling of carrying a mountain on your back. I was definitel⁹y feeling like a high gravity individual.

    We walk back and wash our gear in fresh water to stop the build up of salt then that's it, back again tomorrow at 9am. I head back onto the beach and meet Alfie further down where I spend a while lounging and studying the online material as we had a test tomorrow - though it seemed I only had access to half of what I needed which might prove difficult. We grab some food and head back to the beach and watch the sunset.

    We then grab a rotti each (for some reason the island is littered with the same stand with slightly different wording) and we sit by a bar doing a very interesting quiz with questions such as "how many calories in a teaspoon of semen" whilst a fire performer did his thing. The answer by the way is 36 (or something close I can't really remember) but me and Alfie had bigger things to do - planning! After doing some emailing and Google search our quest for a 2 day tour of Khao Sok National Park was seeming more and more unlikely.

    Eventually, whilst Alfie calls Daisy, I lay watching the starts slowly appear, listening to the sound of the waves and the music in the background. I then have a lovely call with Josh, who says apparently the winter in England isn't as warm as Thailand. How weird. After doing some washing and drying (where our clothes came out warm but somehow still wet?) we head to our hostel and chat a bit with some girls where one of them had just been out on a date. If your curious it went well. Then time for bed before another early ish start tomorrow.

    Also, I can't take photos during my course, so the pictures are probably gonna be quite boring compared to what I'm doing.
    Read more

Get your own travel profile

Free

QR code

FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android