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  • Day 3

    Good Air

    May 31, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Waking up at around 7:30 we are keen to make the most of the day- which will now be my only day in Argentina.
    Magda provides us with breakfast of toast and coffee. Her granddaughter is over for the day and is a very cute addition to the table although she appears somewhat wary of us. The meal is interrupted by Magda’s cat jumping on the table and getting dangerously close to the butter, not wanting to touch it Chris attempts to ward it off with a teddy that was on the table, the cat thinks it’s a game and starts swiping at him. Jumping back in alarm Chris drops an f bomb and the teddy. I take delight in being particularly unhelpful to the situation and just having a laugh.

    We head out for a walking tour of Buenos Aires. It’s actually way more pleasant and cool than I expected, kind of a cross between somewhere in Europe and New York. We walk the cobbled streets at a good pace, checking out markets, a cathedral, a bunch of funky buildings and waterways and a well refurbished museum/ruin. We cram in as much as we can, ordering takeaway sandwiches and smoothies before racing back for our taxi to the airport.
    Arriving at our checkin counter we find out we aren’t permitted to fly to Bolivia without having an exit ticket booked. This proves problematic as we plan to bus onwards, have no tickets and the wifi isn’t working. Chris starts swearing like a trooper and I start laughing- what has become our typical responses.
    We become ‘those people’ holding up the entire line as we fumble around on our phones trying to sort it out. Finally my phone comes through with a connection, we rapidly book a bus ticket and head onwards.
    Our trip to Bolivia is a couple of 2 hour flights with a few hours between. Swapping travel, work and life stories and plans for how he could propose to his girlfriend we’ve been chatting non stop for almost 6 hours. In a moment of self awareness we realise no one around us has been speaking English the entire time- we are those annoying foreigners who gabble away in their own language at rapid speed 😆
    We hit customs at Santa Fe, I go through with no problems but Chris is getting a hard core interrogation about his motives for visiting and length of stay. The customs lady still doesn’t appear happy with his answers as if she expects him to be attempting to hide out in the country for an extended period of time. She continues questioning and asks about his occupation. Upon hearing he is a doctor her qualms appear appeased and she waves him on through.
    Getting off the plane in La Paz we are at an altitude of 3,600. This is super high. When climbing Everest we had a gradual process of about 5 days to get to this height and yet here we have just flown straight in. I can feel my head spinning immediately and when we debate whether navigating the public mini-vans or getting a taxi Chris makes the executive decision that right now we don’t have the cognitive ability to navigate the system and should just pay the extra bolivianos to get to town safely.
    Checking into a hostel we head out to get some dinner, the streets are dark and narrow and considering we don’t really know where we are going Chris tries out his Spanish, asking a lady ‘perdóneme-restaurante?’ The lady looks him in the face and then instead of pointing us in the right direction she let’s out a startled laugh as if he’s just made an inappropriate joke. The response is so unexpected that we both finding cracking up and finding our own way to a local eatery.
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  • Day 1

    The beginning

    May 29, 2019 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The night before I fly I realise things aren’t gonna be as smooth as I’d hoped-strikes in Buenos Aires means my flight is cancelled, now I’ll have a 24 hour stopover in Auckland while I wait for the next one.
    Keen to not spend the whole time in the airport I walk out the front doors, hop on a bus to town and check in to a grubby backpackers for $15 a night.
    The pricing proves spot on as the room is noisy and full. I can’t help but have a little giggle at a very ernest Indian fellow on the bunk below me who at 10 pm checks with everyone if it’s okay to switch out the light and wishes us all goodnight. Ha, needless to say the light goes on many more times throughout the night, the last person stumbles in close to 2 and the first to leave are rustling around at 5:30. It’s not the most restful sleep, but better than the airport floor.
    I roll out at around 9:30 and head off to find a visitors centre and some coffee.
    Latte in hand I board a ferry to waikhe island. I get chatting to a Korean fellow who advises me that single life is definitely best...then proceeds to introduce me to his wife 😆
    Parting company, I find a Norwegian exchange student, Tildah, who is also travelling by herself, we end up tripping around the island together. Beautiful green scenery and lovely beaches.
    It’s a pleasant day and I head back to the airport ready for my 11 hour flight.
    I get chatting to a fun girl Sarah, from Melbourne. She’s heading to Argentina for 2 weeks and we have a good laugh together about not speaking a word of Spanish or having a clue what we are doing.
    We hop on the plane and are disappointed to see we are seated miles apart, I bid her farewell and head down further. As I approach my seat I can’t help but giggle out loud. The Fijian national under 20’s rugby team fills up much of the latter part of the plane and my ‘seat’ is squished between three of the enormous Fijian staff. I point to the pile of pillows, blankets and headphones that obscure where I need to be and apologise.
    Squeezing myself into the gap I introduce myself and find out I’m sat between the team manager and physio. I get chatting with the physio and can see the players necks craning for a look from the rows behind. It doesn’t take long for messages to pop up on both my and Roni’s screens
    Mine along the lines of ‘hi, how are you’ and his ‘what’s her name? Where’s she’s from?’
    Roni tells me part of his job is to keep an eye on the boys interactions with women when they leave Fiji.😆

    I arrive in Argentina and spot Sarah at the baggage collection point. She has no taxi and as it is getting dark and it’s potentially dodgy I suggest she come in mine which thankfully Chris has organised me.
    A short blond lady holds up a sign which reads ‘Tabitha- friend of Chris’ I give her a wave and she envelops me in a big hug. Kissing both cheeks and gabbling away in Spanish. She does the same to Sarah, unperturbed by the extra traveller.
    Our attempts at communication are hilarious, myself and Sarah speaking in English and she replying in Spanish leaving all of us unsure as to what we have discussed. Midway to town we pull over on the side of the highway where a balding man with glasses loads our stuff out and into his car. From our attempts at conversing we think that he is her husband and is taking us the remainder of the way. But considering how confusing conversation is, he could well be a drug lord about to capture us as slaves for his cartel.
    Laughing at the randomness and agreeing that between us we could knock him out if he tries any moves we hop into his car and thankfully he takes us safely the rest of the way to town.
    I farewell Sarah and checkin to the air bnb that Chris has organised. The owner Magda greets me with the typical double kiss and hug then shows me around the place. It’s a narrow second story apartment in an aging building block, but despite the old and musty feel of the place, house plants and a gas fire make it homely. I’m happy to have a hot shower and get to bed just before midnight.
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