Argentina
Buenos Aires F.D.

Here you’ll find travel reports about Buenos Aires F.D.. Discover travel destinations in Argentina of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

241 travelers at this place:

  • Day4

    Apropo Uber...

    March 7 in Argentina

    das ist hier illegal.
    Stört nur die Taxifahrer, nicht aber die Regierung. Mir soll es recht sein.
    So ging es heute morgen per uber erstmal nach La Boca, genauer gesagt nach Caminito.
    Das ist ein kleines, sehr buntes Einwandererdörfchen mit bunten Häuschen. Sehr fotogen.
    dann bin ich mit dem Bus (gab kein uber mehr) zurück im die Stadt und nach Puerto Madero. quasi eine Hafencity in gross.
    Hier ist eh alles gross.
    Anschliessend bin ich zum Four Seasons Hotel, weil da Foo Fighters und QOTSA nächtigen. Ja, war so, 100 andere Fans waren schon da. Allerdings war ausser einem mittelmässigem argentinischem c-promi niemand zu sehen.
    Habe mich dann auf gemacht zur Cemetry in Recoleta. eine rieeeesige Stadt aus... ja Gruften!!!
    4 Blocks voller Gräber, verstaubten Särgen und massig Gothic, neo Gothic, griechischer und art deco gräber. muy impressionante!!!!
    dann war mein akku tot und ich musste ein paar Minuten bei einem netten Typen in einem Laden eis essen und mein Handy aufladen. Ich wieder hin zum Four Seasons...wieder nix mit Band treffen.
    Dafür wieder neue Freunde gefunden.
    Sprachbarriere??? I wo!!! ich tippe alles in den Übersetzer ein. klappt prima!!
    Kurz aufgefrischt hab ich mich dann mit meinem Kolle gen aus Hamburg auf Steak und Bier getroffen.
    Zigaretten kosten 3 EUR!!!!!! 😂
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  • Day5

    2 dias llenos de amor..

    March 8 in Argentina

    Musik und Liebe....
    Liebe unter Frauen, Männer mit Frauen, Männer mit Männern... und vor allem Toleranz, Gleichberechtigung und zusammen etwas erschaffen.
    Der heutige Weltfrauentag war für mich ehrlich gesagt der Erste, den ich richtig intensiv wahrgenommen habe.
    Ich war zuerst im Evita Peron Museum und habe mehr über die Geschichte dieser unglaublichen Frau gelernt.
    danach war ich in Palermo was essen und im Museo Malba, welches ausschließlich Kunst argentinischer Künstler ausstellt. Ich war begeistert.
    Auf dem Weg zurück mit meinem Freund UBER gab es mal wieder intensive Gespräche mit Google Übersetzer 😂 Dann bin ich vorzeitig ausgestiegen, da absolutes verkehrschaos herrschte.
    Die Kundgebungen in der Innenstadt waren immer noch im Gange. Alter Schwede. hier geht richtig was ab. Die Gebäude waren im Zeichen der Frau lila beleuchtet, überall tanzten die Frauen und sangen. ich bin schwer beeindruckt!

    Gestern war das andere lang ersehnte grosse Event.
    Das Konzert der Foo Fighters und QOTSA. Thomas und ich haben uns auf den weg zum Stadion gemacht und standen erstmal wieder im Stau. das letzte Stück mussten wir laufen, sonst wären wir noch später gekommen.
    ich habe 5 Songs von QOTSA verpasst 😓
    Naja, halb so wild.
    Wir standen recht mittig, bis die foo Fighters los legten und eine mega stosswelle uns getrennt hat. die sind bis in die letzte reihe abgegangen wie zäpfchen.
    ich bin dann nach hinten durch, da ging es nach einer Weile wieder. ausserdem wollte ich unbedingt eines der limitierten plakate für zu Hause haben! 😍
    Vorne muss die luzi abgegangen sein. immer wieder hat Dave aufgehört zu singen, weil die Zuschauer einfach lauter waren und eine hymne gesungen haben.
    Was für ein Erlebnis!??? etwas, dass ich wohl nie vergessen werde!
    Muchas Gracias Buenos Aires ❤❤❤
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  • Day0

    Jetlag...

    March 3 in Argentina

    Hallo. ich bin fix und foxy.
    Der jetlag hat mich voll im Griff. dieser flug nach Osten hats mir richtig gegeben.
    Bei 32 Grad angekommen gab hab ich mir nen bisschen Patagonien herbei gewünscht.
    ich schwitze seit 2 Monaten jeden Tag. Hatte vielleicht insgesamt 3 Tage unter 25 Grad. ich weiss, ihr friert...aber habt ihr schon mal so lange am Stück jeden Tag geschwitzt? ich sehe abends immer aus, wie ne glasierte Torte im Gesicht.
    dann hab ich festgestellt, lokale Sim karte fürs Handy am Flughafen besorgen is nich mal eben so...in die stadt mit dem Shuttlebus war hingegen sehr einfach. da stand ich aber dann am central Bahnhof des shuttles, aber weit und breit kein Taxi.
    irgendwer hat mich dann angesprochen und was organisiert, so dass ich dann wenigstens zur 1. Adresse kam, wo ich meinen Schlüssel für die Wohnung abholen konnte.
    von dort aus wusste ich dann wieder nicht weiter, bis mich ein wifi hotspot und ein uber sicher ans ziel gebracht hat.
    ja, etwas abhängig vom wifi bin ich schon, aber ich hatte auch erstmal vor, mich nur mit Uber und nicht per taxi fortzubewegen, da man bei uber den preis vorher weiss und der betrag einfach von der Kreditkarte abgebucht wird.
    ergo, damit fühle ich mich einfach sicherer.
    Schnell kam ich zu der Erkenntnis, dass Englisch hier wirklich eine FREMDsprache ist.
    Ich stammle mir hier richtig gut was zurecht. no entiendo nada!!!!
    die stört das aber gar nicht, und so hat mir heute die Frau im Telefonladen fröhlich auf spanisch erklärt wie ich meine prepaid sim auflade.😂
    Geld ist hier auch ein Thema. Meine Visa stecke ich nicht überall rein und so habe ich 2x Cash abgehoben und versuche so über die Runde zu kommen. Da man pro Abhebung 205 ARG DOLLAR = 8 EUR zahlt muss man sich alles schon etwas genauer überlegen. Für die 2 Tage Chile habe ich US Dollar in Neuseeland gekauft.
    Auf dem Flohmarkt am Sonntag hab ich zugeschlagen. zum Handeln fühlte ich mich noch nicht in der Lage. bei 30 Grad und ca. 15 km laufen war das wohl ok.
    Heute habe ich die Foo fighters tickets von unserem lieben Helfer hier in BA abgeholt. Morgen kommt dann mein Kollege aus Hamburg an und Mittwoch geht es los!!! :)
    Hasta pronto.
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  • Day141

    Buenos Aires

    March 12 in Argentina

    Aus dem Flugzeug raus und 30 Grad und Sonne begrüßten uns. Genau so haben wir uns das vorgestellt und es war einfach klasse!☀️
    Buenos Aires ist super. Überall ist was los (außer während der ausgedehnten Mittagspause) und die Stadt hat sehr viel zu bieten.

    In der vergangenen Woche waren wir mal hier, mal dort. Natürlich standen die Stadtteile San Telmo, La Boca, Recoleta und Palermo auf dem Programm. Dazu ein bisschen Tango (aber nur zum Zuschauen 😉), Cocktails/ Bier und fantastisches Rindfleisch! Unser Highlight war ein 87 jähriger Mann, der auf dem Marktplatz mit einer unglaublichen Lebensfreude Tango getanzt hat.

    Wir haben das sonnige Buenos Aires in vollen Zügen genossen und reisen jetzt voller schöner Erinnerungen an die Iguazu Wasserfälle!😍
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  • Day299

    Buenos Aires

    March 1 in Argentina

    300 days of vacation-we need a break😋. We’ll be taking a pause from our travels for the month of March, staying in a few Airbnb’s here in the city. We’re excited to study some Spanish, get on a healthier eating and exercise routine, and enjoy exploring this very beautiful city.
    While our first night was rough with the power going out ~6pm and not returning until ~3pm the next day, we’re hopeful that was a fluke (though when you google power outages it seems corruption and poor management mean this isn’t all that uncommon).
    On our second full day we went to a rugby game. We felt like we had to go since the BA team were playing the Wellington team (John’s hometown). It was a fun experience (the NZ team, the Hurricanes, won!) and finding the tickets and the stadium was like a mini treasure hunt.
    Oh...and a funny thing happened on the way to the game...As we exited our Uber at the stadium, we heard someone asking in clumsy Spanish, with a Kiwi accent, 'excuse me, where is gate 2'. They were dressed in Hurricanes gear and lost, like us. We were eating some very delicious empanadas so obviously looked like locals. John cheekily waited a few seconds, took another bite of his empanada, turned around and said "don't worry about it, I don't speak much Spanish either - I'm from Wellington..." Turns out the folks were also Kiwis arrived from Auckland and Peru just for the game!
    Note that it’s unlikely we’ll do any updates until April, so don’t worry about us if you don’t see any activity (we’re talking to you, Danella 😀).
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  • Day17

    Art???

    March 4 in Argentina

    We had a lazy day, as we were tired and were changing apartments —moving from Palermo to Recoleta, so that we could have an experience in another part of BA. Given that our apartments in Palermo was spacious and clean, I think that we were all having some misgivings about our earlier decision to pack up and move. But, the rental period was up and off we went.

    Our new digs are located in a building that was probably constructed in the 1930s. The lobby is pretty unassuming, and the elevator is tiny — more like a small closet (so small that the three of us and our luggage could not fit in one trip). We went upstairs and found a charming 2 bedroom, two bathroom apartment. At the time that the apartment was built, this must have been considered a very luxurious apartment. Why? First, when you get off the elevator on your floor, there is a small entry and only one door, for one apartment. Second, there are two entrances to the apartment — a front one for residents and guests, and a back one, which must have been for the maid. This is pretty funny, given that the entire apartment is probably no more than 400 square feet! Third, there are two sinks in the kitchen — one for dishes and the other for laundry, etc. We settled in and set out to have a bite to eat and to explore San Telmo Market.

    We had a lovely lunch, with some tasty empanadas near San Telmo. Every guidebook that we read made it clear that going to San Telmo for the Sunday market/street fair was required. We read that it was filled with antique vendors, and craftsmen. Well, you can’t always believe what you read. The market was filled with lots of old junk, and the handcrafts were tourist novelties. But, committed to making the best of the situation, we found ourselves some fun.

    Kelly spied some tango dancers in a square. While they weren’t fantastic, it was fun to see some regular folks — including a man of about 70 — dancing in the square.

    Then, we walked down a side street, and Kelly saw a shop that had Fileteado art. It took us some sleuthing to find the entrance, but when we did we were delighted to meet a young artist who was working in the studio. He told us that this style of art developed in the 1920s and 1930s, and began as decorations for carriages. Over time, the art was used to create signs that advertised bars, cafes, and tango dances. The art fell out of favor, and has been revived by some young artists. Some of the pieces that were on display were not for sale, as they are part of an upcoming exhibition (sadly, as Kelly had her eye on a piece), others were for sale. I snagged two small signs to hang at the River.

    Our next stop was the Museum of Modern Art. When we walked in, we were surprised to learn that admission was free. We soon found out why; the building is being remodeled and there was only one exhibit. But, what an interesting exhibit. The artist is Tomas Saraceno, who is an Argentinian. For a reason that was lost in translation, he is fascinated with the art created by spiders (aka, spiderwebs). Apparently, he has spent more than a decade studying spiders and working with scientists who study arachnids. He and a team spent months gathering 17 colonies of spiders to create a large installation. These are all “social” spiders, who work collaboratively and creating spider webs. (Fortunately, after we say the exhibit, we also got to see a film demonstrating the process and while it was in Spanish, we could get the general idea.). The installation is in a very large room — 190 sq meters. The walls, floor and ceiling are painted black. In the center are wire/metal frames. The artist and his team gathered 7000 spiders, and introduced them into the exhibition space. Over a period of 6 weeks, the spiders spun a series of webs that stretch and hang over the frames. Spot lights highlight the webs. You walk around the edge, so that you don’t disturb the webs. (The spiders were removed, but no one at the museum could explain how that occurred and I couldn’t find any explanation on the internet.). Pictures really don’t do the exhibit justice. Honestly, it was just wild.

    From now on, when I run into yet another spiderweb at the River, I’ll simply call it art and walk around the side.
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  • Day18

    Recoleta

    March 5 in Argentina

    Today we tackled the most upscale neighborhood in BA — Recoleta. This neighborhood is also home to the most famous cemetery in all of South America — the Recoleta Cemetery.

    We joined another walking tour led by Buenos Aires walks — a group that I highly recommend. Our guide was Mariano, who grew up here in BA. With 70 of our closest friends, we spent 3 hours engrossed in stories of the aristocracy in BA.

    Recoleta was settled in the late 1860s, following two cholera and one yellow fever outbreak in San Telmo (the part of the city that was closest to the river, and which had stagnant water that bred mosquitos). To escape illness, the wealthy residents of San Telmo fled to their “estaciones” (landed estates), and established new homes. Since this period of movement coincided with a tremendous growth in affluence in Argentina, these wealthy landowners built mansions, typically in the French style. It was due to this period of building that Buenos Aires was given the nickname of the “Paris of South America.” (Apparently, Portenos — as residents of BA are called —hate this nickname.). As you walk through Recoleta, you see one huge mansion after another. Although a few of the mansions are still privately owned, most have been converted into hotels (the Four Seasons), and embassies (the French embassy is in a particularly beautiful mansion, which the French saved from destruction when the Argentine government planned to demolish it to install a new freeway.). One of the main streets — Alvear — is like the Rodeo Drive of BA, filled with fancy boutiques, perfumeries and gorgeous hotels. Many of the buildings have gorgeous ironwork on the doors and balconies. The streets are lined with beautiful old trees and there are lots of parks with monuments. The area is just stunning. Honestly, I could have walked for hours in the neighborhood.

    We ended the tour at the Recoleta Cemetery, where the aristocracy of BA rests for an eternity. Since we were famished, we decided to save the cemetery for another day, and headed to a lovely French cafe named Roux, where the service was lousy but the food was yummy.

    After lunch, Arie and Kelly headed back to the apartment for a nap, while I wandered aimlessly around the neighborhood. Just walking around gave me the sense of the vibrant life of BA. I also enjoyed watching people pick up their kids from school. Here, the children are in school from around 9am, to at least 4 pm, and sometimes as late as 6pm. A fair number of the children go to private, parochial schools, and wear uniforms. The children who go to public schools also wear a type of uniform — a white coat (like a small version of what a doctor wears) or a pinafore (for the youngest children). We were told that the wearing of these coats/jumpers were meant to level class distinctions. It doesn’t appear to have worked, as you can still see the children’s clothing, but the tradition has lingered. I laughed as I watched the kids peel out of their “coats” as soon as they left school, stuffing the discarded items into backpacks or thrusting them into the hands of their parents.

    For dinner, we went to an old school parilla — Pena Parilla — which has been open for decades. We ate delicious steaks, and French fries. I swear that I’ve eaten more red meat since arriving in this country than I have in the past 12 months.

    We had arranged to have a very late dinner (10 pm), so that we could go to a Milonga afterwards. A Milonga is essentially a dancehall for tango. This is NOT a show with professional dancers. Instead, it is a hall in which regular people go to dance. Some people arrive with partners, or with groups of friends, but many people (women and men) go alone, just for the joy of dancing. There are over 300 Milongas in BA, and they are open every night of the week. We went to Milonga Parakultural, which is open on Monday, Tuesday and Friday. Classes for novices are held from 9-11pm. Afterwards, the dance floor is open to anyone.

    We arrived at the Milonga around 11:15. We paid 150 pesos per person to get in (which is $7.50) and we were seated at a table one row back from the dance floor. We ordered a drink, and started watching the dancers. The dancers were all ages, shapes and sizes. The women were more dressed up then the men, but some of the men sported jackets or vests. Some of the couples only danced with each other, but most people seemed to change partners every few dances. Some of the dancers were great, and some were so-so, but they all seemed to be having great fun. The thing that was surprising was that the number of dancers grew and grew, as the evening wore on. (We had read this in articles about the milongas, but it is hard to believe that this actually would happen on a Monday evening.). So, when we arrived at 11:15, there were people on the floor, but plenty of room to dance. By the time that we left at 1am, the dance floor was packed, and people were still arriving. Apparently, the best dancers don’t show up until 2 am or 3 am at some of the more popular Milongas. Watching the people dance was delightful. While I can’t imagine mastering the tango, perhaps Arie and I try out some swing dancing when we get home.
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  • Day325

    Buenos Aires

    March 27 in Argentina

    Our four weeks in Buenos Aires flew by incredibly fast, but we were grateful for the chance to stay in one place for more than a few days, exercise more regularly and enjoy better food (Argentinean food is definitely not our favorite so we cooked-in >90% of the time after finding some decent vegetable and fish markets).
    We spent a lot of time planning the rest of our travels, getting our US taxes ready, and Christy finished her New Zealand residency application.
    John began refreshing his Japanese for our planned visit to Japan in the fall and Christy spent a few hours every day studying Spanish.
    After the weather finally cooled down in mid-March, we visited museums, churches and explored more of the city’s interesting neighborhoods. The architecture and old buildings here continued to wow us – definitely a world-class city. Sorry to disappoint, but no tango lessons.
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  • Day16

    A Morning at the Opera

    March 3 in Argentina

    Like all great cities, BA has an opera house. But this one — Teatro Colon — is extraordinarily beautiful, on par with the Paris Opera House, and heads and shoulders over the 1960s monstrosity of the Met. According to National Geographic, it is the third best opera house in the world. What are numbers one and two? Sydney and Copenhagen. However, I suspect that the ranking is due to sound considerations, not the splendor of the building.

    The Teatro Colon took 18 years to build and according to our charming guide, the story of the building could be an opera itself. It opened in 1908, and was completely remodeled in 2010. The remodeling took 4 years, in part because the modernization of the building negatively impacted the acoustics, requiring reversion to some earlier materials. For example, the seats were originally filled with horse hair. In the remodeling, they substituted foam. This was horrible for sound, so they had to re-do all 2600 seats, adding a year to the project.

    The entrance way, balconies and the public meeting areas are gorgeous. The golden hall is modeled on the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. In the early years, people used to come at least an hour before the opera started, so that they could see and be seen in the hall. But, access to the hall was — and still is — restricted to people in the more expensive seats. If you buy a cheap seat, even today, you cannot visit the golden hall. So, a few times a year, the hall is open for free public concerts in which students at the “Academy” play chamber music.

    Inside the theater you find a spectacular, old-school concert hall, built in the traditional U-shape. The drapes are a beautiful red, as are the seats, and the walls are covered in gold leaf. We were told that the price of tickets runs from $10 USD, to $250 USD. The best seat is considered to be a box seat, on the second level, directly across from the stage. We sat in this box during the tour, and the view is amazing. There are boxes on either side of the stage that are reserved for the Mayor and the President. Sadly, the boxes generally sit empty. There are also boxes on the floor that are shielded by black grates. These boxes are no longer in use, but were built as the widows’ boxes — where widows could see the opera (but not be seen) during the mandatory two years of mourning. Apparently, widows often purchased the entire box, which had four seats, and then brought their lover with them to see the opera.

    The theater itself had some amazing innovations. From the time that it was built, there was a wooden turn table built into the stage, allowing sets to be moved easily during a production. Above the stunning chandelier, is a huge open area for musicians and people doing sound effects (up to 50 people). This area is still used today. And, below all of the seats on the main floor is a large open chamber, which improves the quality of the sound. Beneath each seat is a small grate, where the sound reverberates around.

    Our only regret was that we couldn’t actually see a production. The season doesn’t start until two weeks after we leave. What a bummer, as seeing an opera, or a ballet, would have been quite a treat. But, touring the theater was a strong second.
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  • Day13

    Buenos Aires, Here We Come

    February 28 in Argentina

    After two lovely days in Iguazu, and some nice time sitting poolside with yummy drinks, Buenos Aires beckoned. So, we headed for the airport and we were off.

    Our arrival in BA was quite eventful. After careful research on the internet, Arie determined that we could take an Uber to the apartment that we had rented. I was not super enthusiastic, given my extreme dislike for Uber, but since the cost was 20% of the cost of a taxi ride, I said ok. The first hurdle was finding the parking lot in which Uber picks up customers. As is true in the US, Uber drivers are not welcome in the taxicab lines, so we had to locate the lot for short term parking. Once we found the right spot, the driver couldn’t find us. Finally, we found each other and jumped in the car. Unlike in Santiago, where the Uber driver had informed us that if we were stopped by the police, we should say the driver was our friend, this driver said nothing. About 2 blocks past the airport we were pulled over by the traffic cops. Our driver had to exit the car and show his license and car registration. We were asked questions in Spanish, and played dumb. Then a cop who spoke English came over and asked how we had summoned the car. Arie said we had used the app, and we were told that Uber was illegal in BA, and we had to get out. The driver handed us our bags, and told us in Spanish to meet him down the street. Since we had just told the cop that we didn’t speak Spanish, I didn’t think that we could follow the Uber driver’s directions. So, back to the airport we went, where we found a cab and proceeded to the apartment.

    The flat is in a 5 story building on the edge of Palermo Hollywood. It is pretty, basic, but clean and has plenty fo room for Arie and I, and our pal Kelly who will join us for the week. After scouting out coffee and snacks for the house, we went to dinner at a restaurant call “I Latina.”

    The restaurant started as a private restaurant in someone’s home, and is now a hot spot on the culinary scene. The restaurant is housed in a lovely old mansion, with a big iron gate outside at which you must buzz to be granted entrance. We arrived at 9 pm, and were one of the first parties to be seated. Over the course of the evening, the restaurant filled, with many people arriving after 10:30 pm. We feasted on 7 courses, with dishes representing countries throughout Central and South America. There was a ceviche with a tomato bisque, sweetbreads, beef cheeks, quail with the best mole sauce I’ve ever eaten, a delicious selection of breads, margarita sorbet, and a chocolate mouse with chocolate nibs, sea salt and a sprinkle of olive oil. I also a fantastic gin and tonic, which was flavored with thyme and pineapple. At some point in the evening, we met Chef Santiago, who was quite charming. As the evening came to an end, they brought out a dessert and asked if we were celebrating an occasion. I had forgotten that I’d said it was our anniversary (I think hitting 25 years gives you a year of celebrating). But, we graciously accepted, I explained to Arie, and we tucked into a twist on a carrot cake. Delicious.

    I am looking forward to eating in this country which is known as a foodies paradise.
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires, Ciudad Autonoma de Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires F.D., CF, Buenos Aires C.F., Buenos Aires, 布宜诺斯艾利斯

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