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El Camino Portugues
  • Luke Shealy
  • Luke Shealy

El Camino Portugues

You can't get away from yourself by moving from one place to another.
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  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 12: Branca

    January 18, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    This Alburgue is also attached to a hotel that apparently no one else is staying in. The dormitory is in an old mill room that been restored. It looks super cool in here! I was able to wash some clothes before bed too, so hopefully everything drys by morning!

    When I came in, I was offered a slice of cheesecake with cherries in it. I hung out in the common room/kitchen with the other person staying in the Alburgue who is not actually a Pilgrim, but who is doing a work away program and is helping out here in exchange for food and lodging. She is from Italy is just beginning a trip across Portugal for an unknown period of time while doing various work away opportunities.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Over the Highway and Through the Woods

    January 18, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today I did a lot of roadside walking. There were also some nice sections in the woods, but it really was mostly on roads today. It’s been really sunny too which has been oh so incredible after all of the rain! However, the highway walking may have actually been a good thing because many of the paths still had a lot of water in them. I’m thinking that maybe more of the land will have drained by tomorrow!

    One thing that honestly amazed me today, was the scale of the highway bridge that I crossed. It went over a river/gorge at what seemed like the highest and longest point. I’m always astounded by how many places there are in the US where it seems like so much money has been poured into really nice roadway infrastructure and the surrounding areas really don’t seem to have much going on and at least from some sights today Portugal doesn’t seem to be immune to this either, as the villages surrounding this huge bridge seemed to be in various states of repair and many buildings had various pieces of sheet metal used as sidelong and roofing.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    The only way to get there is to walk

    January 19, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I left around 7 this morning and it was quite nice to walk in the early morning as I’d generally been starting out later to avoid the typical morning rain shower.

    Today’s walk was pretty much completely through urban areas. Either through a town or next to the road. It really was a good way to get a sense of how people live. I do think that I generally prefer more of the farmland and natural scenery though for a whole day of walking.

    Some things I’ve noticed:

    * There are a surprising number of animal pastures like right next to or in the middle of large town.
    *Terracotta roofs are quite heavy. I saw a number of abandoned houses, and it seems like the roof always caves in first.
    *Almost no one uses a leash when walking a dog.
    *Very few bill boards
    *At least to my untrained eye, it’s pretty rare to see houses that are tiled, have similar tiles to other houses. There are so many unique patterns!
    *All large name brand grocery stores have tent like awnings for people to park their car beneath.

    Tomorrow I should arrive in Porto! I’m planning on spending a few days there, maybe 3.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 13: Grijó

    January 20, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I have been calling Alburgues ahead of time so that I can make sure they are open. The person answering the phone for the Grijo Alburgue really didn’t seem to speak English but did mention something about a form and that they would send me a WhatsApp message about it.

    I never did get the form, but when I arrived I completely walked into the wrong building that turned out to be a bar and asked for the Alburgue. They pointed me to the back of a house where the check-in would be. When I knocked, a 7 year old girl answered the door and called for her mom that there was someone here for the Alburgue. I provided my credential and information while in their living room. I think I’d pretty clearly interpreted some kind of gather because there were 4 young kids running around and a group of older men all talking together.

    I did get into the Alburgue though! And saw Lee. The two of us went to dinner together and a dish that in the English menu was called ‘cod with cornbread’. I’m not sure exactly where the cornbread was, but it was super tasty!

    After dinner, Lee offered me some different kinds of South Korean candy that were all ginseng flavor. It was a very unique taste, but probably not going to be a new Halloween favorite for me.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 15: Arvore

    January 24, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The three Alburgues after Porto were all closed so we were advised to stay at a campground. They had these small Bungalows and I shared one with Fran and his brother Alfonso.

    Alfonso and I arrived first and so went to have dinner together in the town. The restraints that we saw all seemed quite expensive so we attempted to say that we were looking for something cheaper. A host of a fancy restaurant told us to follow him and he took us down the block to an ally behind a building where there was a very small hole in the wall place that was selling drinks and small sandwhiches to what seemed like a very local crowd and the price was excellent.

    I was trying to order a beer but I think I wanted was lost in translation so I only ended up with a sandwiches. While we were eating, an older German man came over with an open beer and gave it to me. He had recently moved to Portugal to start a company and had really excellent English. He and I talked for a bit and he was telling me about how he’d recently moved back to Europe from living in China for 9 years. Super nice guy and he would not let me pay him back for the beer!

    We also ended up going to a different dive bar for ANOTHER sandwich (needed lots of calories) and met Fran there.

    In the morning, we started the day at a bakery in town.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 16: Agucadoura

    January 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I walked for the first part of the day with Fran’s brother Alfonso who is about to starting training to be a Firefighter in Pamplona. We talked quite a bit about firefighting and there really are a lot of exams and training in Spain that’s required in order to start one’s career as a Bombero. I also realized that Alfonso had good English for talking but less good English for understanding what I was saying, so I was always trying to be mindful of how fast I talked and the words that I used.

    For lunch, Alfonso and I stopped at a restaurant that had outdoor seating next to a river and had the Menu del Dia which was fish. The waiter had apparently lived in California for a few years and we chatted a bit about American beers. I also had a cold pastry filled with cream that was truly excellent on a warm day. Just as we were finishing, we saw Fran crossing the river. The bridge was quite far so we were waving and motioning for him to join us. The waited saw what we were doing and joined in as well.

    In the afternoon we met an American woman who had just moved to Portugal from New Mexico and she gave us a small Camino Scallop shell charm. She seemed to walk her dog all the time because we talked to another Pilgrim who also met her but at a completely different time.

    We walked with Fran as well for the rest of the day and came to the Alburgue right after the sun had set. I cooked the 3 of us a Spanish dish that Fran and Alfonso recommended. I used no recipe book and Alfonso and Fran both explained it to me differently. I also forget the same of the dish. But essentially it is rice cooked with tomorrow sauce, any sugared vegetables you want, and then a fried egg and cheese on top. Was quite tasty! There was a girl from Taiwan and 2 guys from South Korea also in the Alburgue but none of them were super talkative.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Garden of the Moors

    January 26, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today’s walk to Porto was not too long and I walked it with much pleasure. I had a fantastic lunch at the Cafe Perestroika that had a huge plate of pork, fries, rice, a salad, bread, soup, a peach tea and an espresso for only €7!

    Right before I reached Porto, I heard music playing from a park and went over to check it out. There were hundreds of people waiting for the sun to set over the river. I chilled out there and rested for the day before heading to the Alburgue.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 17: Marinhas

    January 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The three of us got a bit of a late start in the morning, but we only had about 20km to walk for the day, so it didn’t really set us behind at all. The beginning of the day was all along the coast but then slowly turned inwards towards a very marshy area that was all boardwalk. Alfonso was telling me that he thought the EU paid for a lot of boardwalks along the Camino which must be a nice thing for Spain.

    We eventually got to a small village with a couple of restaurants. I’d been craving another Franchesinia since I had one in Porto so I had another. While we were in the restaurant, a woman doing the Camino entered and was seated at the table next to us. She was from Holland and we finished up our meal the same time as her, so the four of us all walked together for the rest of the day as we were heading to the same place.

    Just before we got to the Alburgue in the evening, we stopped at a grocery store to get supplies for dinner. I asked if anyone wanted to cook, and with no interested parties, I was more than happy to cook again and not do dishes. So we all bought different things for a pasta soup to share the cost.

    Saskia from Holland and I made dinner and I was hoping someone might join us because it really was a lot of food. Was a great little dinner together though!

    We were talking kind of loud at the table though, so after we finished eating (around 9:30) I suggested that we take our dessert (some ripe mangos) in the kitchen which was in the basement.

    While there, a couple of middle aged Spaniards joined us. We recognized that they had also been in the restaurant that day. Everyone except for Saskia and I was speaking in very rapid Spanish. Their names were Josè and Olraleigh. I mentioned that my city was called Raleigh and asked how he spelled his name. He said it was a traditional Catalan name that came from the importer Marcus Aurelius. I wonder if that’s also the root of Sir Walter Raleigh’s name?? Also the Spanish really was guard for me to follow, so I ended up going to bed before everyone else.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 14: Porto

    January 27, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    In Porto, I stayed at the Alburgue de Peregrinos all 3 nights. There were 5-7 pilgrims arriving night.

    The first two nights I was there, Lee cooked a dinner from South Korea. After Lee had left, I wanted to take up the mantle of making dinner because food is such a good way to connect with people. I made chicken n dumplings with the help of a French guy who was quite hesitant at first about putting dough in a soup, but who ended up really enjoying the meal. I also taught everyone who joined for the meal how to play the spoons!

    Some people I met:

    Two women from the Czech Republic who had never met before but who showed up on the same day and joined Lee (from Korea) for dinner.

    A French guy named Sasha who worked as a mason and is traveling with almost no technology. He is quite good a percussion and we talked about different places that he has been busking.

    Three American women from Massachusetts who all worked on the same organic farm.

    A Belgian who was doing the Camino by bicycle. Very Belgian of him.

    A Ukrainian who was walking the French Camino when the war started and who then walked to Porto. She stayed at this Alburgue as a volunteer and now is full time and runs the place.

    Juan Pablo, who is Fran’s brother. He walked with Fran for 4 days and is now going to Santiago, but the Santiago in Chile to work for a Utility Scale Solar Company. We talked a lot about the energy industry,

    A Belgian named Anna who has spent the last year traveling and who is a volunteer. She plays guitar. She, Juan Pablo and I played some songs together with me playing harmonica and Juan Pablo sometimes on the spoons. We played some songs in Spanish that I didn’t know and also ‘Country Roads’ that everyone knows.

    A German from Konstanz. I’d been to his city before and he was very familiar with St, Gallen and was surprised that I knew so much about the area where he was from.

    Two Hungarians who didn’t speak any English but who made some pumpkin in the over and offered it to Lee and I. I’m still confused as to why they did this. They didn’t eat any and also but no salt or spices on the roasted pumpkin which was roasted for an incredibly long time. Lee and I each had one piece.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    More Porto

    January 27, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Porto is an incredibly beautiful city! It’s very important to Portuguese History and Culture.

    Supposedly the name Portugal comes from the combination of Porto and the city next to it called Gaia.

    I spent 3 days here exploring the city both by myself and with people I meet at the Alburgue.

    Some highlights:

    -A free walking tour on a beautiful and sunny day! Everyone who was on the tour was traveling by themselves also, so we all had lunch together afterwards.
    -A very length brunch at a super chill cafe on Sunday where I read the book of James.
    -Visiting the ‘most beautiful bookstore in the world’ and purchasing a pocket version of Fernando Passoa’s only novel.
    -Some inexpensive but very tasty port wine.
    -A trip to the beach where I put my feet into the other side of the Atlantic Ocean.

    At least in the old part of the city, it felt like there was always something else around the next corner, either a beautiful old church, some street art, a busker, or statue.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler
    1

    Etapa 18: Viana do Castelo

    January 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today we stopped quite a few times to get stamps in our Credentials. The first was a small cafe where we had a coffee and spoke to a local man that kept wanting to shake everyone’s hand multiple times. The second was a small pizza restaurant whose stamp had their name, address, email, website, phone number, and coordinates. Every possible piece of information haha

    Along the way, we also saw a gate with lots of Camino stickers on it and so we called hit a buzzer. We were told we could come onto the property and walked down a super steep driveway towards a small cabin with a sizable vegetable garden. We were greeted by 2 chill dogs, a Brazilian student and a retired Frenchmen who had served in the military for 22 years. We got stamps and they offered us wine, but we declined and headed back to the path.

    We then walked most of the afternoon in a really beautiful forest that had a number a streams and a bridge going over a river.

    Later we also stopped for a late lunch ‘La Comida’ at a cafe and got the fourth stamp of the day there and I had a huge omelette.

    When we arrived to Viana do Castelo, we found that the Alburgue was part of an old Convent. It was a real maze to get to our rooms. It also had some very thought provoking art on the walls. When we’d settled in a bit we found that Saskia from Holland was also staying there so we all decided to go to a Portuguese Seafood restaurant together. The food was fantastic, especially the octopus! There was also a group of like 20 people that walked in to the restaurant with instruments and sang some Portuguese songs. They sounded very traditional and like I was expected to know all of the words    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 20: Viladesuso

    January 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We stayed at an Alburgue that was right by the ocean. You could buy a beer from the fridge for only €1 so I ended my day on the front porch with a typical Galician beer and una siestita!

    We all went to the only restaurant in town and had some sandwiches for dinner.Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 19: Caminha

    January 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    The convent Alburgue required that everyone leave by 8:30, which was a bit earlier than usual for the Spanish brothers. But, we did get out in time and went to a nearby bakery for a breakfast and stamp.

    Fran’s brother wanted to walk by himself today, so Fran and I spent most of the day together. The first of the day was along the the coastal boardwalk, and then we went up some truly challenging hills.

    We had plans to meet up with Fran’s brother for lunch. As we approached the town, we met an older Portuguese man who we talked for a bit. He said that he worked as a photographer for a while and offered to take our picture above the town.

    At the restaurant, we split several tapas among the 3 of us. As we were finishing up, Josè and Olraleigh met us and joined our table, and after that Frans other Brother Juan Pablo arrived as well from Madrid! So after dinner the 6 of us went to the Alburgue which had some really cool hand built bunk beds. They were also selling beers for €1 so I ended my evening on the porch with an Estrella Galicia and a sunset!    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 20: Nigrán

    January 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today I walked with the group of Spaniards I am traveling and also by myself for a bit. It was a mix between walking beside the ocean and also above the ocean beside some towns. A really beautiful walk and I’m super grateful that every day has had such incredible weather! We all had lunch together at a local restaurant that is supposedly very typical for the area. The wine and coffee were both served in bowls.

    I had oreja de Ceredo (pig ears) and and also a pork elbow joint with fries. I was not a huge fan of the Orejas by themselves. Think crunchy and fatty. But, with some crusty bread they were actually really really tasty. It’s apparently a very popular dish in Galicia (the region that we are in).

    In the evening we stayed at a hotel because the nearest Alburgue was closed. It was still an okay price. I think this area is much more popular in the summer than the winter because it seemed no one else besides us was staying at the hotel.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 21: Vigo

    January 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today we traveled along the coast for almost the entire day. We passed people who were crabbing in an area that looked quite dangerous with rocks and large waves. Eventually, we made our way to the much calmer calmer waters of the bay of Vigo.

    Vigo is the most important city in the region and there is quite a lot of industry based there. In the middle of the bay, are lots of platforms that apparently have ropes going into the water to grow mussels. Also, at the very top of the city, is an old stone Castillo used throughout history including as a defensive structure during the Spanish civil war.

    We went to the top of the Castillo to watch the sunset set over the Atlantic. Truly stunning.

    Most everyone left for dinner at 9:30, however after having joined the Spanish for several late and long dinners already, I decided to eat the rest of the food I had in my backpack and turn in early to be rested for the rest of the way to Santiago!    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 22: Arcade

    February 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We started the the day by going to two different places for breakfast. I got empanadas at one and a Nepolitana (tastes as good as it looks) at the other.

    The name of the bakery where I bought the Nepolitana was called La Panacea (most bakeries are called pananderia) and they also sold some basic household goods.

    The first part of today’s walk was on a greenway going through a neighborhood in Vigo and then along the highway. Eventually that came to an end and we walked beside an old railroad track until that came to an end, at which point we made the steepest climb I’ve done in the entire Camino. Like just straight up. I would have been very nervous to drive on the hills we were climbing that’s how steep they were.

    We stopped at and had lunch at a restaurant some locals recommended. The Spanish guys I’m traveling with like to ask 3-4 people for recommendations on local food and then hash out which one to go to. One of the best things about traveling with them haha

    After a huge lunch, I think we all fell asleep for at least like 5 minutes in the nearby park (una siestita) and then finished the afternoon by walking to Arcade.

    It was Fran’s birthday and in evening José made a traditional dish that was rice, tomatoes, garlic, peppers, and pork ribs all cooked together in the oven. Super tasty and for dessert one of Fran’s brothers had bought a Tarta de Santiago and candles for him to blow out!    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 23: A Portela

    February 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    We set out for the day going mostly through fields and farmlands. We saw some goats and had a nice moment with them and fed them some nearby grasses. They were super appreciative of that despite being in a field full of grass.

    We then traveled along a small river for a while which led into a larger town where we had lunch. I had pork ribs which were super tasty, but the sauce was served separately so they were quite messy to eat. After dinner we walked out of the city, but along the way stopped by a political tent ( I’m not sure why we did this) and some members of the group had a conversation about one of the local candidates. We were also all handed political flyers. I read through mine and had to ask Juan Pablo for some translations. The party was supposedly the the center-right party but there proposed policy seemed to be left of the democrats. It was quite interesting to hear about how the Spanish election system works.

    We arrived to the Alburgue a little after sundown. They had a big soup, hard-boiled eggs and bread waiting for us that was available to eat for a donation. Quite a simple meal, but filling.

    After dinner, the Alburgue caretaker, Paco, and I talked a bit about American music. He was super in to American rock from the 70s and ended up showing me different YouTube videos for like an hour of the Beastie Boys, Prodigy, and Simpsons clips. I also tried to show him some newer artists I thought he might like and he subscribed to all of the YouTube channels of everyone I recommended.    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 24: Padrón

    February 3, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The 6 of us walked through several small towns and agricultural areas that to me (aside from the architecture) really reminded me a lot the foothills of NC. Small mountains in the distance, green and lush trees everywhere, and we stopped at what can best described as a BBQ restaurant for lunch!

    The way they do BBQ in Galicia is with sauce and the side and it’s kind of a chili Garrick sauce that is only served on the side. I split BBQ beef ribs and quail with fran and had a Tiramisu for dessert.

    In the evening about an hour before we arrived at the hostel, we stopped at this ‘Pilgrims stop’ that had vending machines a shelter, and music playing. We were the only ones there, but I’m sure it’s quite busier in the summer. It was a really nice spot to take a rest.

    Tomorrow we will reach Santiago! It’s been such a great journey so far and I’ve really enjoyed getting to meet people from all over the world and particularly the group that I’ve been walking with for the last week. and on days when I’ve been walking partially or completely by myself it’s also been a good opportunity for introspection and to connect with God/Nature.

    Some things that I’ve been doing ever single day:
    1. Picking up trash along the way
    2. Stretching
    3. Praying
    4. Talking/communicating with people who don’t speak the same language as me    Read more

  • Luke ShealyEl Camino PortuguesTraveler

    Etapa 25: Santiago de Compostela

    February 4, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Our last day of walking to Santiago was quite a short one. We walked through. Series of small ancient feeling villages. One of them had an outdoor feral cat shelter and we talked with a local woman who seemed to be the sole caretaker of the colony.

    There really weren’t many amazing lunch options, so we stopped at a bakery and had some freshly made empanadas, which honestly for me was quite a good lunch option!

    We really didn’t rush in the afternoon, but walked with pleasure and companionship through Santiago’s streets, which were filled with more local tourists, and up to the peak where the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela stands.

    The day truly was beautiful and the shadows barely touched the steeps of the cathedral as our group celebrated the accomplishment and completion of our journey. We took several photos together, but mostly just basked in the moment of arrival in the plaza.

    One funny thing was that many of the tourists kept coming up to our group specifically to take pictures of them. I’m not sure why they particularly thought we were the best photographers around, but we did try our best.

    After getting settled into the last Alburgue and showering. We met up for dinner together! We went to several different tapas restaurants for drinks and to sample Galecian delicacies and then had a real meal around 11 with ample seafood and free tortilla patata. After dinner we went to one of the few bars open on Sunday which was playing American rock n roll from around the 1950s and met a few other Pilgrims who had arrived by the French way!

    For me, this trip was one of exploration, reflection, and enjoyment. Many people walk the way of St. James searching for something and for me that was connection.

    I met people from all over the world of various ages and backgrounds. I heard there stories, got to share my culture, shared music, and sometimes just walked in silence with them. I traveled across half a country in a mostly rural area where I didn’t speak the language at all, yet still was able to get what I needed and share in the small moments of day to day life. I accepted the kindness of strangers and tried where I could to return the favor to others.

    I don’t think that this journey completely altered who I am. That would be asking quite a lot. But it did set before me a path to walk down and the time to think about how I want to walk down it: with pleasure and the company of others, or forging ahead on my own, to find things that I may not have otherwise. I think for me there is some form of equilibrium to be had between those two ways of walking. But I did find the days of going a little more slowly and in the company of people who eventually became friends to often be more rewarding and more pleasurable.

    It was usually the small things too that made the walk more enjoyable. A long lunch, a spot to stop, a good joke to be shared, a stranger to meet, a piece of landscape to be noticed and shared with others. For me these things were a little bit harder as well because they usually involved using basic Spanish (which I have but I’m not amazing at) or really simple English.

    Those moments along the way require a bit more planning or sometimes stepping into the unknown. The me after Camino is someone who I think will take more time for the smaller moments and who will venture beyond where I’m normally comfortable to find them.

    One other thing about walking 633 km over 32 days, is that I was constantly outside. I REALLY appreciated the amount of nice weather and tried my best to appreciate the times of rain or cold. Moving from one place to the other so slowly really led me to appreciate the slowly changing biomes. The world created by God is worthy of appreciating in its more wild areas and areas that humanity has put to our own uses in varying levels of harmony with natural. We’ve altered so much through roads, hydraulics, and agriculture.

    Time spent outside is almost always well spent. While, I’m not sure when I’ll ever have the chance to spend so many continuous days walking outside again, I can still take make time and headspace to reverse the world wherever I am; to walk with pleasure along the way; and to do what I can to look for opportunities to build friendly connections with new people even if only to enjoy a small moment.    Read more

    Trip end
    February 5, 2024
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