A 66-day adventure by SailingSealaVie Read more
  • 36footprints
  • 2countries
  • 66days
  • 244photos
  • 8videos
  • 1.7kkilometers
  • 803sea miles
  • 15kilometers
  • Day 54

    Heading North again

    May 27, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I winched up the dinghy and Bob pulled up our anchors and we waved farewell to our Swiss neighbours. We discovered that the anchor buoy was no longer attached and was just floating. It's no wonder we were mystified last evening at our position!
    We decided to sail/motor further out from the Amalfi coast in order to avoid the traffic and their wake. At the Sirens, Captain Bob announced we had reached our furthermost southern position and we were now heading North. 🥺 Due to the lack of wind, he also announced we were a motor boat, not a sailing vessel! That changed as we reached the channel to Capri and we were sailing once again, 'running the gauntlet' of ferries, power boats, and tour boats. Only 1 evasive tactic required but, oh, my nerves! 🤯😬😖 As we came back into Porto Miseno, it was crowded! Everyone was out for Sat. in the sun. We anchored beside 2 rafted catamarans which had a crowd of young people dancing, singing and playing ball. We had dinner in the cockpit and watched as everyone left and we had the harbour to ourselves again. Lovely music from the hotel and fireworks ended a good day.
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  • Day 55

    Sunny Sunday

    May 28, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We left Miseno and headed toward Gaeta staying clear of 4 ferries, 3 tour boats and a cargo ship as we rounded the Cap from Miseno. Lots of space but lots of waves 🌊. ugh. From then on it was lovely and quiet with basically no one but us! The sailing was perfect with the wind increasing, naturally, as we were heading in to the Port. Due to wind and wave direction, we anchored off the old town rather than where we had been before under the cliffs at the beach. It obviously was a good spot because 4 other power boats decided to anchor within a boat length of us! 🤯😖😬 We watched with both concern and amusement as they shouted with arms gesticulating while untangling their anchors! We up and moved and finally had the space to ourselves. Eclectic choices of music from the bar entertained us and put us to bed.Read more

  • Day 57

    Isola Ponza

    May 30, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We spent Monday wandering Old Gaeta and discovered the Italian national pastime of closing attractions ⛪🕍🕌 and museums🏤⛲🎠 whenever it suits them! The town is a maze of alleys, lanes, staircases, arches, broken buildings and lovely homes with rooftop gardens and views. We met a German fellow who lives aboard his catamaran with his wife and 10 month baby and another baby arriving! He was busy putting nets around the lifelines. 👍A calm night and we set off the next morning for Ponza, by all accounts, a place with gorgeous water and spectacular rock formations and cliffs. Once again there was little to no traffic so a lovely transit although little wind. We anchored off a lovely beach and Bob dipped his toes while I swam around the boat. The water temp was 24C! The wind started blowing in with some waves but the forecast was for light wind and waves. LIES! We thought we were settled for the night but we got bouncier and blown so made a decision to move around to the other side of the island even though it was dark. Donned our life jackets and we motored out, bouncing, splashing, crashing in the waves. I vetoed Bob's idea of trying to lift the dinghy while bouncing in the waves and decided to go into the town harbour rather than around the island. It was still an exposed harbour but somewhat less and there were other boats anchored so we joined them. Needless to say, a rocky, scary ending to what had begun as a glorious day. No sleep 🥱for me!Read more

  • Day 58

    Spectacular Ponza

    May 31, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After a sleepless night for me, I was able to catch 40 winks after Bob got up at 6. The wind and waves had lessened but it was still bouncy so we decided at 0715 to go around to the west side of the island. As we rounded into the bay, there were 14 other masts! Some had left the harbour in the dark to escape the east wind and swells. Although there were lots of boats, it was not crowded and there was plenty of room between us. Spectacular cliffs, caves and rock of different colours. The water was beautiful with a sandy bottom and occasional rocks and grass but we couldn't see any fish life. We motored in the dinghy to explore the shore. By the late afternoon, the wind and waves had shifted and were coming at us from the west so we packed up and moved to the east side again. Fortunately, when it shifted again it was light enough and of no concern. 2 ferries came in and left, other boats arrived from the west side, the church bells chimed a tune every half hour and the setting sun lit up the colourful houses. A calm and restful night.Read more

  • Day 59

    Last sailing day

    June 1, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Up before the sun as we planned a long day (66 n.m. 11 hours) to Fiumicino/Rome where we leave the boat for the summer. We left with the ferry and motorsailed for awhile, then motored, then sailed. A beautiful day ( maybe we should have stayed in Ponza at the beach? 🤔) with very little boat traffic and what we did see was far off and heading south to our north. One power boat was aimed at us but he changed course before Bob blew the horn and after I tersley told him to call on the radio or change course! I don't like playing "chicken"! I called the marina to advise we were at the mouth of the river and they hailed us and took our lines as we rafted up to 2 other boats. Lovely not to have to leap off! The marina staff were welcoming and helpful, even offering to loan us a car. I'm not prepared for another wild and thorny walk! The evening was calm on the river with an otter swimming by, birds calling and chirping from the island in the river. Peaceful. A perfect ending to our last sailing day.Read more

  • Day 63

    Bike: 67 kms, walk: 18 kms, sail: 0 n.m.

    June 5, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Since arriving in Fiumicino/ Tiber River, we have been in clean up mode and readying the boat for summer storage. We took our dinghy for a spin up the river which has marinas and boats of all sizes and types along both banks. We also scouted out how to get to Rome by transit which led us on a not so merry ride going in circles and backtracking with no success! We did see a lot of Fiumicino and the beach area though! In the end, we decided to take the wild and thorny route but on bikes Sunday morning so there was little traffic and no thorns. Whew! There aren't words to describe how busy and crowded Rome is. We stepped off the train at the Coliseum and could see the line extending completely around the Coliseum and down the road to Circo Massimo, so that ended any thought and desire to wait to enter! We walked and viewed the different ruins from outside the gates, wandered through gardens and crept into a church hosting a small wedding. The area around Trevi fountain was 15 people deep so I had to forgo throwing my coin for fear of taking out an eye! I'm thankful I saw Rome as a teenager. If it's ruins you want to see, I'd recommend Pompei over Rome although the Coliseum is spectacular in its magnitude.
    We enjoyed the stories of our neighbour, Walter from Austria, who has sailed all his life, including a 5 year sailing trip around the world. I have boat envy: he has a dishwasher, washer & dryer and a watermaker plus another 17 feet in length!
    He agrees with our analysis of Italian boaters: typically macho with speed and power a priority, inattentive bordering on negligent, and unaware of anchoring space! Otherwise, friendly and helpful with a laid back attitude to work schedules on land!
    One day left then we fly early to Paris where we overnight and fly home Thursday. I'll miss the calm river habitat with its bird song, the fragrant scents of jasmine and honeysuckle bushes, and the beauty of the palm and lemon trees, the bougainvillea and the sun on the water. But I'm ready to come home and join in the fun with friends🥰 and family❤, particularly 2 energetic, imaginative and inquisitive children! 😍😘
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