• Lisa SK
Jun – Jul 2024

Camino 2024

Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela. Walking (and riding) in the footsteps of my ancestors to pave a path for my children. Read more
  • Trip start
    June 26, 2024

    Getting ready to go!

    Jun 25–Jul 8, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    It’s been a busy few weeks getting ready to go full of spending time with friends and family. We’ve had a lot of super cute overnight guests.

    Most of my prep for this trip has focused on buying new clothes and gear. While my formal training has lagged, i regularly walk several kilometers at a time while carrying a tiny human.

    I am mostly packed, i have reservations for almost every night, and i have my pre-camino walk figured out (i think. I am infamously horrible at navigating public transportation).

    The first week of my journey is all sightseeing and shopping and eating. On July 2, Ill start my pilgrimage. My intent is to use this app as a digital journal where i can share details of each day’s adventures, as well as my observations, thoughts, and feelings. It will be a lot of first draft (and tired) writing and unedited photos, so be prepared to roll with whatever i post.

    My goals of this trip are simple. I want to explore Europe, slowly and as thoroughly as i please. I want to be alone and quiet so i can hear my own thoughts again. I want to process (and release) a lot of pent up emotion. And finally, i want to receive whatever the universe sends my way.

    Camino pilgrims frequently remind each other that the ‘camino provides’. I am holding onto this promise and will share here if and when it is fulfilled.
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  • An inauspicious beginning

    June 26, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    It’s amazing what becomes precious as you watch it slip away. That is how i am feeling about time right now. We’ve all experienced flight delays and missed connections. Mine will likely result in an overnight in Toronto (which is hope to avoid by sprinting like a mad woman through the terminal) and a delayed arrival in Lisbon. I won’t actually be missing anything - my plans were loose and I will still have plenty of time to do most of the things i’ve wanted to do.

    But yet, i sit here mourning each passing moment. Logically, it’s ridiculous. I’ve spent more time watching cocomelon and mickey’s funhouse this past week than i am losing now. But my perception of that time is radically different.

    After i post this, ill spend some time journaling. Maybe napping. And ill work on shifting my perception from anxious and impatient to grateful and accepting. Ill work on embracing the quiet and my much desired solitude.

    Bom Dia.
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  • 24 hours later

    June 27, 2024 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Last night i spent a quiet and uneventful night at a hotel near the san Francisco airport which led to an early morning flight straight to Montreal.

    My impressions of Montreal so far include:

    1. People are beautiful here. Some airports are full of ugly people. This isn’t one of them.
    2. Cake vending machines!!! Brilliant.
    3. BBQ Doritos and ketchup flavored chips - weird.
    4. There is such a thing as too many duty free shopping options.
    5. Actual working pay phones! That people were using. Everything old is new again (including me!)

    I’ve been journaling a lot trying to get at the heart of what makes for a fulfilling life for me, what truly motivates to help others, and to understand what is “locked in the amber of my memories” (credit: kate morton ‘The Clockmaker’s Daughter’s for such a poetic sentiment)

    My flight to lisbon is later this evening and i hope to wake up just as we land. With any luck my next post will be from Belem Tower.

    Boa noite.
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  • The round about where the tram stops

    Jun 28–29, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Although it’s completely nondescript, the roundabout that the trams and buses use to collect passengers and retrace their routes is the center of Belem. Just behind it is a beautiful sprawling botanical garden. To it’s west, the famous Mosteiro dos Jeronimos and to it’s east, the Rue de Belem. A short ride (or walk away) are so many museums as well as the Padrao dos Descobrimentos, the Belem Tower, food trucks galore, 2 marinas, and tourists traps.

    It’s as if someone took Decatur Street in New Orleans and the mall in DC and smashed them together (complete with the familiar smells of both areas).

    Once an agricultural and fishing village, Belem built its population over the centuries by becoming a hub for global shipping trade, a strategic defense location, and a summer favorite for the royals, their court and the wealthy.

    The sheer size of the Padrao dos Descobrimentos is astonishing. It’s a monument to the explorers, poets, clergy, and politicians that made Portugal’s colonization possible throughout the centuries.

    Further down the river, the Tower of Belem is an intricate and artistic battle fort. Also astounding in size, the old soldier in me wondered what the sentries must have said as they lived on nearby ships and braved the elements while watching its elaborate construction. “Oh sure, add another nautical rope carving. Take your time! we don’t actually need it to guard our fair city and our muskets are sooo much better than cannons anyway”

    I spent some time watching the sail boats on the river today. It made me wonder if my son’s love of sailing is something he inherited from our wayfinding ancestors. I see familiar faces everywhere here - the same nose as my grandpa or the same cheekbones as my mom. My great-grandparents left Portugal over 100 years ago - it’s easy to imagine what they might have seen if they ever walked these same streets. I don’t feel any farsickness (longing for far-off places, especially those you've not yet visited) yet but perhaps that will change as i move out of the city and further up the coast.

    Tomorrow ill go back to the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos and take a tour of the inside. Ill also jump in one of those historic trams and explore the sights of lisbon beyond Belem.

    i sampled Pasteis today. They are wonderful. Like crème brûlée in a tiny perfect pie crust.

    The picture with the chandelier is my hotel room. I think this building was a manor or summer home once and they converted it into a hotel. It feels very glided age or bridgerton adjacent.
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  • My brothers would love this place

    June 29, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    My older brother loves art in which the subject has a quirky or adorable expression. My brother in law loves to take pictures of things the rest of us don’t notice.

    As i explored the Jeronimo Monastery today, i thought of them often. There were snails vomiting royal crests and lizards hiding coyly behind columns. Everything was full of iconography. I found myself wondering what hidden and inside jokes had made it into the stone work. It took over 500 years to complete.

    The center courtyard, which was off limits to walk in, made me imagine monks resting there, writing poetry and painting.

    Most of the monastery has been recently restored but there were places that were original. The tile murals in the pictures were created and mounted in the 1700s.

    In one of the tomb rooms, the sculptures of various religious figures were so detailed and eerie - i spent quite a while looking at them trying to determine if they are old or new. I still don’t know but the gray coloring suggests that they are old.

    I learned about Saint Jeronimo, an academic scholar who devoted himself to religion. His order of monks had the spiritual mission to give guidance and hear confessions of the sailors coming and going from Belem. They also prayed for the kings’ soul and that of his successors. I am not catholic and i do not have a patron saint. But if i did, jeronimo would be a good choice. Especially since the lion is his symbolic protector. If i had to have someone protecting me, id like them to be lion-like.
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  • How many palaces is too many?

    June 29, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Sintra is a beautiful and hilly town with at least 10 palaces in its vicinity. Way too many for me to visit this trip but I got to see one today and will visit one or two tomorrow.

    The streets of Sintra are narrow and wind their way through the hills. So walking from my bed and breakfast to the palace and shops, i walked these twisted roads, surrounded by shops and restaurants that are built into the hillside and staggered on top of each other.

    The National Palace of Sintra was first built in the 1100s and had wings, courtyards and floors added to it by almost every monarchy after. Most of what is on display today is from King Luis I and Queen Maria Pia, the last king and queen of portugal.

    Again, the familiar portuguese tiles, Azulejos, adorn almost every room. The azulejos here are notable because they are more in the Islamic style (raised and textured) than in other historic sites.

    Most of the ceilings were decorated with birds, a theme that was never properly addressed by the audio tour but maybe wasn’t as weird back then? They also had old dowry chests laying around everywhere - again, totally unexplained.

    My favorite room (aside from the gift shop) was Heraldic hall. The domed ceiling was at least 60 feet tall and every inch of that room was covered in azulejos or gold. It was over the top but i found myself feeling very grateful to the artists and craftsmen who devoted their lives to building it.

    The courtyard just outside the palace had an orchestra performing. It was lively and fun and there were children dancing. I also saw where Lord Bryon stayed when he visited (now full of cafes, stores, and apartments) which partially inspired him in Childe Harold to reference Sintra as ‘Glorious Eden.’ I have to agree.

    The courtyard is called “Terreriro da Rainha d Amelia”, which roughly translates to the Yard of Queen Amelia. My niece’s middle name is Raine and my daughter is Amelia so it was a serendipitous moment for me.

    Queen Maria Pia seemed to have over the top girly taste. Ive included a picture of her chandler and her umm ‘throne’ room.
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  • A fairytale palace

    June 30, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The Palace of Pena is beautiful but more in the way an eclectic museum is beautiful than a royal palace. Intentionally built for leisure, it looks like a storybook castle. The architecture draws inspiration from Big Ben, the Taj Mahal and the Neuschwanstien castle.

    Definitely worth seeing but it all felt very ‘Disney’. The art and furniture and decorations were opulent- meant to impress and demonstrate wealth. I kept feeling as if they lacked character. Sometimes at historic sites, i get a feel for the people. There is something relatable about them. Sometimes their humor shines through. But not here. I don’t say that with criticism- i say that with a lot of empathy.

    The castle was built during the downfall of the portuguese monarchy. King fernando II built it for his first wife as a demonstration of his love for her. He also imported trees and greenery from all over the world - turning a once dry and barren region into a lush rolling forest. Together they had 11 children but only 6 survived. After the death of his first wife, he fell in love with and eventually married a commoner. Their forbidden love was a source of scandal and stress for many years.

    King fernando’s son and his family enjoyed a few years of leisure here before the monarchy was overthrown and they were all assassinated or exiled.

    All of which to say, this family knew tragedy and hardship which might explain the lack of character in the palace.

    Except for king triton. He did not look or feel ‘disney’ at all. I loved the detail on him and laughed out loud at his weird nipples.

    My favorite part of the visit was walking through the vast gardens. I explored the ruins of the Moor Castle from 1100 and chased lizards and earned a huge scoop of gelato.
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  • Sharing a few pieces of art that i loved

    June 30, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Just some art that i loved so far. In our home, if arts makes us feel something, we buy it. I can’t afford these and my shoebox of a home isn’t big enough to display them. So here are pictures instead.

    My absolute favorite so far is the sculpture of the seesaw. The joy on the faces of the granddaughter and her grandparents made me so happy.

    Putting these together, i see a theme…
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  • Oporto you are fantastic

    July 1, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I had a lot of fun today wandering through Porto. From sleeping in a Palace to painting Azueljos to eating the best Italian food of my life to visiting the library where the moving staircase from hogwarts was inspired.

    Lots more to say but im exhausted.

    Tomorrow is a travel day and i start my Camino the next day. I’ll mostly disappear while i am on the camino as i intend to disconnect as much as possible. I also spent time admiring the patron saint of casio keyboards. You’ll still be able to track my location and I’ll post if something unexpected happens or during my rest days.
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  • When i grow up

    July 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    I am currently on a bus from Porto Portugal to Vigo Spain. Tomorrow, I’ll start the camino.

    This bus ride is through the most beautiful towns and villages in the portuguese countryside. The houses look modern as do the hospitals, but everything else looks quaint. If i ever live in portugal, 30 minutes north west of Braga looks like where I’ll try to go.

    I’ve spent the trip so far sightseeing and being alone with my thoughts. They’ve range from the absurd (those trees would make good treehouse trees) to deep moments of gratitude for the all the millions of souls who built and created in these places that I am enjoying as well as everything in between ecstasy and sadness.

    I am mediating a lot on the idea of living vicariously through others. How much is reasonable? On one hand, we all know someone who is always up to some new adventure. They are fascinating to know and generous with their stories. On the other hand, we all know someone who is just living their life. They love to raise hamsters and enjoy the familiarity of their routine and surroundings. But most of us are somewhere in between.

    Most of my vicariously living is in moments of observation, especially as the children in my life live and grow. A lot of my vicarious living comes through movies, TV series and books. And, of course, by witnessing the adventures of my friends and family. And while I am living vicariously through, i am living fully because those are moments of connection, happiest, and rest. At it’s most basic, living vicariously through others, for me, is watching their story unfold while mine holds steady.

    But there is a portion of my life in which i must actively live my life. Like now as i travel. Like when i play with the kids or visit with my friends and family. When i discuss what the movies, tv series and books stirred inside of me. These are moments when my story develops and reveals itself.

    Time spent working, cleaning, sleeping, and doing other necessary life tasks don’t feel like living to me - the drudgery of it all is always about exercise is survival, even though i find a lot of fulfillment in it all.

    And i am hopeful that if you are reading this, you feel as if you are living vicariously through me and it is bringing you something fulfilling in your life.

    But there has got to be a balance. I imagine it is different for everyone. For me, i think about 30-40% of living actively. The rest is for vicarious living. I’ve tried actively living closer to 70-80% and it was exhausting and left little room for self reflection. I am afraid i would disappear completely if i only lived actively 10-20%.

    Anyway, the ramblings of a tired traveler on a bus. Also, welcome to spain!

    Bueno Dias
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  • These alleyways are everywhere and I am so smitten by all of them.After climbing a huge hill, this view was our rewardHi. That's meThis bridge was a good landmark to see how far we had gone.Random waterfall in the middle of no whereA little grove that felt magical. I was trying to take a picture of a lizard but he ran awayAnother amazing viewMost of the locals are so welcomingThe distance i walked today (notice how far away the bridge is)Tomorrow I'll walk past everything in this picture and then a few miles beyond that.

    Day 1 on the camino

    July 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I started bright and early this morning and walked a half mile to a beautiful church in the historic center of Vigo. And then i was off. The day included fantastic views of the villages, bridges, coves, forests and waterfalls. I walked for a while with a woman from Germany - she was kind and also adamant that if Trump wins, Putin will start WWWIII. It’s a different thing talking politics with people from other countries - it’s a lot clearer how big the stakes really are.

    I walked a total of 19 km today (almost 12 miles) and then had an amazing nap. My body is sore but nothing is broken. Tomorrow i think i have 15 miles but with a lot of hills.

    Some things i learned today:
    1. do NOT order pasta in Northern Spain. They tried but oh, it was awful.
    2. Kitchens in Spain close from late afternoon to about 8.
    3. Most of the camino is this area follows the path that an ancient aqueduct once occupied.

    Oh - i got to do real laundry today and sit in an castle courtyard while i ate a delicious apple pastry.
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  • Final view of the vigo bridge.
    pieces of broken tile can be found along the camino. I choose to believe they are ancient roman roadThese signs are every .5 kilometer or so.A very old birdge that looks so coolThe sign in front of the very old and very cool bridgeWhile i am traveling by myself, i am never really alone on the camino.These little pilgrim signs pop up everywhere. Most are unique and handmade. I love them.Luckiest horses aliveThe little church where my heart finally broke openAncient grantie fence post are used to trellis wine vine here. They are everywhereAll done for the day.My bed in a very old villa.

    Finding my way back to music

    July 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today was a hard day. Almost 20 kilometers, in the heat and with some steep and long slopes.

    I spent the morning trying to release some pent up emotions, especially sadness and grief. I listened to some meditations, i did some somatic exercises, i visualized and i prayed. But my emotions have long been held under boulders of stubbornness and they did not budge.

    As i stood at the bottom of the second uphill climb, i felt the muscles in my legs and butts clench in protest. I looked at my map and thought about how badly I didn’t want to walk straight up hill for a mile and a half. I was weary. So I did what any self respecting middle aged woman would do. I turned on a club mix from the 90s. With Baby got Back in my ears, Sir mix-a-lot and i practically ran up that hill. Lady gaga joined us as did Beyoncé and a few others. I had to remind myself that other people near me are on a deeply spiritual pilgrimage and it isn’t appropriate to sing “put your thing down, twist it and reverse it” at full volume. I did dance a little though.

    And as much as i had tried to release emotions in the morning, i found myself so lighthearted and full of laughter. Then i thought about how much i love music. I so often gravitate toward npr, audio books and podcasts that i rarely think to play music anymore. So my friends, as we gather and spend time together, please help me remember to turn on some music and be present in the moment.

    As i walk, i also imagine the pilgrim families from hundreds of years ago. I hear the echo of the children’s laughter in the valleys and imagine where they would have played along the path. I also wonder if pilgrim parents heard medieval versions of ‘are we there yet’ and ‘i’m tired’ as they completed this same path.

    As i came down from the hill, there was a very small stone church. I didn’t get its name but i think it was about 400 years old. I went inside and prayed. I prayed for a very close friend who is in the midst of a health issue. I prayed for her family and for all of us that love her. I asked for the power of every soul who had ever been in that church to protect her. And then the tears came. Big ugly tears with hiccups and snot. They lasted for a long time after and i walked about 45 minutes while i sobbed and blubbered - other pilgrims gracefully pretended not to notice.

    I am going to take a well earned nap now. Tonight i will go and do some sightseeing and each some gelato (turning i to a daily habit).

    I’ve walked almost 73 kilometers (45 miles) since leaving home last week. Most of that was sightseeing but the camino kilos are quickly adding up.

    I have more thoughts - on religion and on the will to live. Maybe ill write them tomorrow or the next day.
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  • A pilgram’s progress

    July 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I spent the last two days listening to a modernized but unabridged version of a pilgram’s progress. It’s an allegory in which the main character “Christian” journeys to the celestial gates but along the way, he encounters obstacles. I had never read it before, and considering the circumstances, seemed like a good time.

    I have my criticisms of it (17th century propaganda is still propaganda) but i did reflect on it in terms of American organized religion compared to what i am seeing here in the European countryside. Long story short, american faith leaders are so far from Christ and have lost all understanding of what it means to live according to God’s word. I know that isn’t a big shock to anyone but the hypocrisy is almost poetic against the backdrop of Christian’s journey.

    One theme I keep coming across (i’m listening to several other audiobooks and reading one real book as well as absorbing a lot of history) is the will to live and how preserving through difficulty is what creates our humanity. In times of deep desperation, people contemplate not living anymore. Christian contemplates taking his life, but is reminded by Hopeful that to do so means to give up means there is no Hope of improvement. Edmond Dantes (Count of Monte Cristo) is attempting suicide until he meets Abbey Faria and is astonished by the ingenuity and purpose the Abbey has invested into escaping.

    What does it mean to be alive? Or to have lived?

    Does it mean having things to live for? Or just being biologically alive? Does it mean having hope? Faith?

    Conversely, what has someone who wants to die lost? Or what do they lack?

    Is to want to live part of the human condition and if we want to die, we are removed from our humanity? Or do those who want to die understand humanity more because they feel they have lost it?

    Struggle without hope = fatalism

    Hope without struggle = naivety

    Therefore to struggle with hope = ??? what exactly? Life, purpose, humanity, futility, passion, pain…i don’t know.

    ——-

    Not a lot of scenic views today but i walked through a lot of farm land and saw a lot of baby animals. I also stopped by a waterfall and nibbled on cheese and sipped sangria for a few hours this afternoon.

    Tomorrow is a rest day. Laundry, swimming and napping are on my agenda. I have about 46 more kilometers to get to Santiago.
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  • A life of leisure

    July 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was a rest day. I read a lot, ate some delicious food, bathed in the ancient thermal hot springs, and had dessert for dinner. I also saw some great street art that seems to be a statement about the capitalism that surrounds the camino.

    I am staying in a casa in the country. It is beautiful - straight out of a victorian novel where people stroll in gardens and ride in carriages.

    Tomorrow i will arrive in Padron during their medieval festival. Im excited to shop and observe and eat during it.

    Two more days on the trail then two days of travel back home. I am enjoying my time here but I miss my family and the comforts of home.
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  • Easy day, took some pictures

    July 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    As i near the end if this journey, i can tell my body has adapted to the demands. Today was ‘only’ 20 kms (12.4 miles). The distance passed by quickly and easily, even with my minor injuries.

    Today’s walk was mostly through wine and farm country.

    Tomorrow I will walk the remaining 25 kilometers and finish in Santiago. I will receive a certificate and take some pictures and attempt to tour the famous church, if the lines aren’t too long.
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  • A makeshift memorial for pilgrims to share their loved ones with the camino

    The short path or the steady path

    July 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The other day, somewhere in the middle of nowhere, there was a sign with two arrows. To the left, 72 meters and a 15 degree slope up. To the right, 362 meters and a 5 degree slope up. Both paths reconnected and continued the camino.

    In the few minutes I was there, we all took the shorter and steeper path. A quick glance to the right showed a path noticeably less trodden.

    I imagine that somewhere near that sign is a hidden camera set up by a young PhD student. That they are looking for commonalities in those that take the longer path. Is it age? The weight of their pack? The intensity of their camino limp?

    Maybe the student hypothesized that all of us who take on the camino are more apt to take on the harder challenge. Or maybe the student understood that those extra 290 meters are precious steps we may need later.

    I’ve always liked the saying “when you come to a crossroads, take it”. In the days since i was at this specific crossroads, I’ve wondered how many times i’ve taken the steeper but shorter (proverbial) path when the signs weren’t as clear. But more importantly, is that the kind of person i want to be or do i want to start working toward being more prudent and slowing down to explore the possibilities.

    One thing i know about myself - i rarely foresee probable outcomes unless I’ve witnessed them before. I am blinded (and often blindsided) by the new, unexpected, or creative paths that lay before me. Aware of this shortcoming, i am often paralyzed to move forward and rely on my inner circle to help guide me…but when the signs seem clear, i take the short path, even if it’s harder.

    And i am not sure that is serving me (and mine) as well as it use to.
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  • It’s a bit of a trip

    July 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    165 kilometers/102 miles
    Chicago to Kalamazoo
    Vail to Aspen
    San Francisco to Point Lobos
    New York City to Woodstock
    Normandy to Paris

    These are all about the same distance apart that I’ve walked in the past two weeks. I’ve heard my own voice again, although we are just getting reacquainted. I’ve been able to articulate some long ignored wants and needs. I’ve wrestled with my emotions. All while enjoying the countryside, the strength and determination of my body, and catching up on sleep.

    I made it through without major injury and I have fallen completely in love with my hiking poles and knee braces.

    If you have any desire to do the Camino, i recommend you just do it. Most of the portuguese route was stroller/bike/electric bike friendly, and it’s possible to live pretty cheaply if you plan ahead some. While religion is the back drop for all of it, self reflection and spiritual exploration are just as prevalent. Couples and families that traveled together seemed to bond deeply and the culture and history of the region are ever accessible.

    I will be back. And ill be dragging some of you with me.

    Pictures of old things with this post. Ill post more pictures in a few minutes.
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  • More Pictures from today

    July 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Just pictures. Stories in the captions

    Trip end
    July 10, 2024