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Fiona Boult
Fiona Boult

Fiona Boult

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    1

    Hornillos to Castrojeriz (not San Anton)

    7 de junio de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Very warm night and as we were anticipating another very warm day we left at 6 to try to make some progress while it was still coolish.
    First part of the walk was in the dark then gradually it got lighter, revealing the beautiful vista of the meseta.
    Awesome landscapes with fabulous flowers. Definitely one of my favourite places on the camino.
    Found coffee after about 9k - Albergue Fuente Sidres a couple of kilometres before Hontanas (only saying this to remind myself that it might be a good place to stay another time - think Caroline and I thought this too last time but I’d forgotten it). Delicious tortilla.
    Had a quick second coffee at Santa Brígida in Hontanas (also need to remember this is good and has a spa!) then on to San Anton (ruined abbey c14) where I was hoping to stay.
    A sudden shower of rain necessitated rain kit for the first time which was a pain but my poncho is good and it didn’t last long so stripped it off quickly as it was too hot to walk in a waterproof.
    Arrived at San Anton around 10.30 but unlike last year there were no drinks to buy and no hospitaleros around. It had a very different vibe and to be honest there were a lot of bugs so although it was great to look around and take a break, we decided to move on to Castrojeriz.
    On the way into Hontanas we had seen a sign advertising an albergue with a meditation room, zen garden and vegetarian meal. It didn’t include a contact number but I managed to find it on the wise pilgrim app and sent a WhatsApp to see if they had 2 beds available. It only takes 4 people but they replied immediately to say yes (as long as we get the vibe!! No alcohol or smoking and limited phone use!) can do most of that so walked on to Castrojeriz and are now installed in the meditation room which has tatami mat beds. Currently sitting in the zen garden (still very hot so not so zen atm) but it seems lovely and will certainly be interesting. Meditation at 6 and dinner at 7.
    After arriving went off to find some lunch and as recommended by our hospitalero went to local organic cafe and had a delicious tostada with tomato, cucumber, avocado and herbs. Found horse of the day there too.
    Then a much needed shower and the usual washing and now planning chill out session somewhere cool if possible. It’s still really hot and humid. Also need to charge my phone - not sure if that will be controversial or not!
    Managed to charge phone while having a siesta. Clothes dried in hot wind in the garden. Went for a wander ‘sin rumbo’ and found delicious cherries and a vegan banana muffin tho thing for breakfast tomorrow so all good.
    Meditation was good - mostly in Spanish with a bit of explanation where necessary but also mostly in silence. Then dinner. A delicious lentil salad thing with tomatoes, garlic and dill and a warm cous cous dish with raisins, sunflower seeds, carrot strips, dried apricots, peppers and some spices. Sat and chatted with our room mate Manuelo from Barcelona and drank his ginger tea and ate my strange vegan chocolate from Bulgaria (flavoured with cardamom, lemon and ginger - delicious but strange).
    Now time for bed in the meditation room with meditative music still playing (we’re not sure how to turn it off!!)    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    121

    Burgos to Hornillos - start of the meset

    6 de junio de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After a sound nights sleep left Burgos at about 7. Initially quite cool it warmed up quickly and ended up being the hottest days walking so far.
    I love the Meseta and so this was a great day for me. There is nothing like the quiet of the Meseta and even in the heat I loved it.
    No coffee for nearly 11k but finally coffee and tortilla in Tardajos (note to self might be a nicer and quieter cafe on the left as the path turns off the Main Street) and then a second coffee in Rabé de las calzadas at La Fuente.
    On the way out of Rabé spent a moment at the Ermita de la Virgen de Monasterio with the wonderful nun who gave us a blessing last year. A very special place.
    Then a long hot walk - mainly up hill - tho with one steep down too - to Hornillos del Camino.
    We were at the Hostal checking in before 1 and met up with Nick and Paul doing the same.
    We have the same private room with shared bath that Caroline and I had last year. Hoping for a nightingale to sing me to sleep again!
    Had a potter round Hornillos in the heat looking for horse of the day (finally found in the bar where I bought a fuzzy water to cool down) then back to base for a bit of Pilates stretching and dinner. For me it was a huge salad which I couldn’t finish but for everyone else chicken paella which smelled great.
    Early night now as super early start because of the heat.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    1

    Burgos - staying still!

    4 de junio de 2024, España

    So not a lot to report today. After a good nights sleep went off to find coffee/ breakfast. First coffee in a modern cafe near the river and second one plus fab bowl of coconut yoghurt, granola and fruit, in our favourite Curcuma Green Food.
    Explored the cathedral but enjoyed it even more than last year. It doesn’t feel a particularly holy place, unlike some of the other churches along the way, but it’s an awesome museum of Romanesque, gothic and renaissance art.
    Found plenty of ‘horses of the day’ for Liv both inside and out.
    Wandered up to the (closed) castle and then back through the town with a veggie empañada on the way back. M then did a lot of planning for upcoming stays as there are certain places where I really hope to stay - either for the second time as they were great last year, or because I saw them last year and really wanted to stay this year.
    The camino is made up of many things but the places you stay and the people you meet are at least as important as any other aspect. This year Burgos has not felt as much like my home town as it did last year when I seemed to bump into someone I knew on every corner. Not sure if this is because the camino has been tiered generally this year or because people are a bit less friendly. Either way not the same vibe, but still good.
    Looking forward to meeting lots of new people on the meseta as some of our good friends have either go on or hung back which is sad.
    Two things - put the sound on if you look at the videos - the one inside the cathedral is an ancient clock automaton - his mouth moves as it strikes.
    And view out of our window is from our hotel room.
    Feet are to show they’re not walking feet today!!    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero

    Atapureca to Burgos

    4 de junio de 2024, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Not a great nights sleep at Albergue Inpulso in Atapuerca despite it being a great place. One of our room mates snored and my pillow was one of the solid bolster types which put my neck at what feels like a right angle. But did get some sleep and were ready to leave by 7 following room mates leaving quietly but audibly earlier.
    Set off up onto the Sierra de Atapuerca - high and very cold this morning in the misty cloud.
    Hard walking on a sort of limestone pavement and then downhill to Cardenuela Riopico where I had a delicious tortilla and coffee for breakfast. On the way down heard and actually saw, briefly, a nightingale.
    Then a long slog along mainly paved surfaces into Burgos. Managed to find the ‘river route’ which is pretty well hidden initially but a much more pleasant, and in the end impressive, way of arriving in Burgos.
    On the way in met Didi (the Dutch girl we shared our meal with last night). She was desperately looking for someone who had taken her poles from the Albergue - we took her number in case we saw him!
    Burgos is a beautiful city. We celebrated our arrival with a beer (and some water - very hot by 12) in the cathedral square before trudging off to find our hotel - the Norte y Londres!
    It’s a good place - pretty central with a window out over a square with cafes and bars. May be a bit noisy tonight but worth it for the view.
    The room is now festooned with washing - I couldn’t believe how dirty some of my clothes were. And still have more to do tomorrow.
    Ate lunch at Gaia, my favourite restaurant from last year and then a drink and snacks at Curcuma Green Food (also visited last year) with Bernie, Linda and David. This was probabaly our last supper with them as they are all going on tomorrow and we are stopping for a rest day. I sort of wish I was walking tomorrow as I know I will miss it but think I also need a bit of a rest as it’s been quite full on for the last two weeks. I will miss the others tho - it’s been fun walking with them.
    Found some fab cherries and a great ice cream so my day is complete.
    And no alarm tomorrow!!    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    2

    Belorado to Atapuerca

    3 de junio de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Very long way to go today so we left at 5.45 - in the dark. Actually pitch dark as it was a cloudy morning. Nevertheless the first birds (black redstarts) were singing as we were leaving Belorado.
    First coffee was delayed as most places don’t open til about 7 so we had walked nearly 10k before we found somewhere open. But it was a wonderful place so I’m pleased that we came to it first. In a tiny place called Espinosa - an alberge and bar run with love by a couple who produced great coffee and amazing food. One to remember.
    Second coffee was in Villafranca - not quite as good but good enough. Then to a tiny supermarket where I stocked up with a tiny toothpaste as I’m running out and a banana.
    After Villafranca it was steeply up but so beautiful - oak trees giving way to pine trees with a wonderful smell I’d like to bottle and take home with me.
    Then a very long largely flat section with beautiful trees, flowers and butterflies before we gradually dropped down to San Juan de Ortega where I sat at a cafe for a while and then explored a beautiful Romanesque church.
    On through the forest to Ages with Nick, Paul, Linda and Bernie. Stopped for a painstakingly carefully made cheese and tomato sandwich at the little bar where we ate dinner last year when staying at Agés. Couldn’t get into that hostal this year so walked on for the last 2.2k to Atapuerca through extraordinary fields of flowers. Today staying in a four bed room in Albergue INpulso Atapuerca with Tamami from Japan and Li from Korea - both seem lovely.
    After a wander around town dinner options looked limited so we made our own tomato sauce with pasta with fresh tomatoes and peppers and shared with a Dutch girl going through a big change of career - interesting discussions about wine and politics!
    Going to sleep to the singing of a spotless starling who has a fantastic range of sounds.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    1

    San Domingo to Belorado - no rain

    2 de junio de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    The highlight (or one of them) of today was that it didn’t rain even tho some forecasts said it would and there was a lot of gloom about. Anyway it didn’t and was actually pretty perfect walking weather. Not quite as cold as yesterday with the odd bit of sun.
    The walk wasn’t hugely exciting with long stretches of senda (by the road). Started about 7 and arrived in Belorado by 12.30. Horse of the day appeared complete with caballero just before we reached the town - fab horse and friendly rider.
    This town is having a festival - apparently something to do with king alfonso so everyone including the hospitaleros are dressed in medieval costumes and there is music and the odd random parade.
    Once we had checked in we went to find a drink and bumped into Nick and Paul. Then went back to shower. Returned to the square to find a cup of tea and met up with Linda Bernie and David and there was finally a bit of sun!
    Dinner at the hostal where most others were staying - a vegetarian menu with four (!) choices for each course. Wonderful and fun meal with other pilgrims including new people from Spain Japan and Scotland. All heading the same way tomorrow and will all be in Burgos the day after, but, as accommodation is scarce on this next section, staying a a variety of different places in different villages.
    Dive bombed by swifts walking to and from dinner and they are darting around under our bedroom window too.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    1

    Najera to San Domingo - cold but lovely

    1 de junio de 2024, España ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Set off at 7 this morning after a night punctuated by loud revels outside the window. It really didn’t look like a party town but clearly transformed after we turned in for the night!
    A beautiful morning - unexpected because the forecast was just for cloud.
    Quite an easy 20k today with lots of glorious views - again I would love to be able to paint but I don’t have a painterly bone in my body.
    San Domingo is the cathedral town with the interesting story about chickens (see last year’s blog). The one place where it looked as if I could eat something doesn’t open for food until 8 so not sure that’s a runner
    Instead persuaded a bar to make me a cheese sandwich and chips so all good!
    Cress is doing lots of drawing and I have caught up with my Spanish following a walk around the town and the cathedral. Still in search of ‘horse of the day’ for liv so will go about again in a minute so look for it.
    I think the pictures will be more interesting than the words today!
    Had a glass of wine in a sunny square by the cathedral with lots of music and dancing from supporters of the local football team - assume they won today. Then another glass of wine with Bernie, David and Linda back at the sandwich place. Major works going on to erect a functioning tv outside for the champions league final - might be another noisy night but think we are facing the right way tonight.
    Met up with Nick from last year who is the same as ever minus calf injury so he’s carrying his bag. Will be good to spend a bit of time with him again    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero

    Logroño to Najera - with gazpacho

    31 de mayo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We set ourselves a long day today - about 29k. After a noisy night in the heart of the tapas bar district of Logroño Cress and I were up at 5.30 leaving Melinda sleeping as this was her last day and she’s only walking to Navarette.
    A quiet level walk out of Logroño through a park and a nature reserve. Saw the family of red squirrels again at exactly the same place as last year.
    Spent most of the day walking with Bernie and Linda from Canada (via Ireland ) and David from southern Spain (via uk). It was cold - rarely took off my fleece and arrived cold needing a hot shower to warm up.
    Finally got a coffee and breakfast (but only a croissant - no tortilla) in Navarrete after about 12 k but my hands were so cold I managed to drop a plate - very embarrassing!
    The scenery was uniform after the parks on the outskirts of Logroño - red earth with vines - we are now in Rioja after all.
    Some cornflowers for the first time in the hedgerows.
    My shoulders were a bit uncomfortable today but planning some stretches before dinner! I was probably carrying to much today including a lot of gazpacho, cherries and peaches - most of which I did actually eat on the way. But was still very hungry when I arrived so had a beer and a cheese sandwich by the river.
    Nice hotel - Hotel Duques de Nájera - with a bath!! Haven’t had one yet tho.
    Hoping for food tonight not just snacks as I’m very hungry. 🤤
    Post some Meryl stretches we went to eat at the place that said they could do something veggie at 7.30 - got there and they said ‘no -8’ so had to wander around for a bit. Finally ate am quite a weird meal of vegetable stew, pasta and tomato sauce and chips and ice cream - but its calories and that’s fundamentally what I need.
    When I got back to the hotel I couldn’t believe my eyes when Paul from last years Camino was there! Big hugs and total surprise later turns out that Nick is also here - quite extraordinary to meet them again! And they are staying at the same hotel tonight.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    1

    Torres del Rio to Logroño - and a hoopoe

    30 de mayo de 2024, España ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    A (relatively) slow start at hostal didn’t start serving breakfast til 6.40. I don’t usually want breakfast but did want a coffee as there wasn’t another stop until just over 10k. So set off at 7.20 which felt like midday.
    Beautiful morning and the first bird I heard, and then actually saw as they don’t hide like most of the little birds, was a hoopoe. I haven’t seen one of these since I was a child so it was super exciting and has made my day.
    Undulating start - walking through groves of almond trees and cherry trees - actually pretty hard ups and downs - but all good and really enjoyed meeting some new people. Just before Viana heard a Thekla’s lark (if you were interpreting its sound musically it would have been a flute in high register rather than a violin!).
    Stopped in Viana for coffee and tortilla with lots of other pilgrims, then the long slog on to Logroño - lots of tarmac and road noise but also the beautiful Rosa de Camino de Santiago coming into the city.
    Walked with Yao from China. She is living in Valencia studying Spanish. Her parents are not very thrilled about her doing the Camino - they think she’s becoming a beggar, that it will be very dangerous and that she will get a suntan. She’s finding them very annoying at the moment and says that she is finally living her own life, having spent years basically doin what they want her to do. Really enjoyed talking with her and I hope I meet her again on the road tomorrow.
    After a visit to the cathedral went in a tapas bar crawl (I struggled with being quite tired, not a great drinker and not being able to eat much of the food ) and met many Camino companions including Yao.
    Street still buzzing but I need to sleep now.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero

    Estella to Torres del Rio

    29 de mayo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Anticipating another very hot day and a 30k walk I left at 6 in the dark. Saw the sun rise around 6.45.
    The first 5k to the wine fountain was cool and quiet - not many other pilgrims or anyone else really. Unfortunately the much anticipated wine fountain now only starts at 8 or 9 am so I was too early. Given how horrible the wine is I wasn’t too bothered as experienced it last year.
    First coffee - after about 6k. Delightful little cafe run by a mad Dutchman - great food including vegetarian sandwiches to take a way for lunch! (First I’ve seen in Spain!) , bonkers pricing - too boring to explain - and he had stroop waffles - also first I’ve seen I. Spain.
    Along the way heard quails in the cornfields, frogs in the ditches and first Zittings Cisticola and Cetti’s Warbler. As well as nightingales and turtle doves. A white butterfly led me into Los Arcos and after Los Arcos saw swallowtails. About six or seven large birds of prey were circling over a tractor in a field of vines - assume they were hoping for small creatures to be disturbed by the tractor and break cover?
    As for people - at a lively food truck with comfortable seat under the olive trees and lots of good things to eat and drink I met the 84 year old man from Japan again (several times today) and a mother and daughter from the US who are walking 40k today. They have just passed our hotel (where I’ve done my washing and had a swim) and still have about 12k to go (it’s 4pm now).
    The trail out of Los Arcos to Torres del Rio was long and hot - absolutely no shade most of the way - met Cayman friends under the only tree casting shade and ate my lunch. Then on to Torres where the hotel is a haven - wonderful pool and good room and - im assured - a great vegetarian cena. I’m so tired I think I will sleep well tonight.
    Went to visit the c12 octagonal church - connected with the knights Templar. Beautiful - remember it from last year.
    Lovely vegetarian dinner with a bottle of wine between 3.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero

    Puente la Reina to Estella - cuckoo #1

    28 de mayo de 2024, España ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Great nights sleep despite the cell like room. Left at 7 and it was the most beautiful morning, tho cold. 6 degrees initially but now it’s 26!
    I was so happy! Exquisite day with more flowers, birds and the first cuckoo, which is always important. I know I’ll hear many more but the first one is exciting.
    Coffee after about 5k which is perfect. Then it became hotter and hotter as we walked though some beautiful hill villages.
    At Lorca I bought a sparkling water and sat for a while in the shade. Then after another hot stretch found the perfect bench seat in the shade where I had some lunch.
    However we have a problem as Cressida has hurt her leg and doesn’t know whether she’s going to be able to walk. A bit of a disaster! She’s yet to consult a pharmacist and I’m hoping it may not be as bad as she thinks but not good after less than a week. The walking is definitely tough particularly when you are carrying your stuff.
    So finally arrived around 2. It was very very hot and I was wilting. Very pleased to get Hostal de los Curtidores - the same place that Caroline and I stayed in last year and right at the beginning of the town. Did the inevitable washing and went to see what time one of my favourite restaurants of the Camino - Bar Mundo- opened - only to find that it was closed for ‘works’ today. Disaster as I was really hungry and in need of a proper meal. So change of plan and found another bar with some veggie food and a terrace overlooking the river. Food was good - service not so good but location was fab. Ice cream and a spot of food shopping later and I am in bed at 8.30 - very exhausted and aiming to set off at 6 tomorrow because of the heat.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    1

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    27 de mayo de 2024, España ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Set off from Pamplona after a dodgy nights sleep. Two rounds of very loud dustbin lorries collecting from, what seemed like, right outside the window at about midnight then at about 1.15. To make things worse I was wide awake well before 5 tho didn’t need to get up till 6. Two proper coffees at the hostal helped to revive me a bit.
    Anyway got going by 7 for the urban walk out of Pamplona in much colder, cloudier conditions. Found breakfast at about 8 in a funny little old bar - great tortilla.
    Then a long hike up Alto de Perdón to the iron pilgrim sculptures and whirring wind turbines. It was extremely windy so unlike last year no one lingered long but headed down pretty fast to the bottom where it must have been a degree or two warmer.
    Not many places to stop today and we hadn’t really brought lunch (bread but no cheese) so it was a hungry walk and I was pretty desperate by the end of the afternoon.
    Some pretty villages and eventually found somewhere to have a cup of tea which was very exciting!
    Weather improved a bit with some sunshine towards the end of the walk - but the cold wind persisted throughout and made it very uncomfortable at times as I just don’t have enough clothes for post walk.
    Fabulous flowers again today - can’t believe the variety along the way - including beautiful irises which I don’t remember seeing before.
    Another nightingale plus corn buntings and serins to listen to.
    Puente la Reina is a lovely town - I hardly saw it last time as it was under water following torrential downpours but this time I was able to wander around and appreciate it more fully. Dinner at Vinoteca Ganbara again - wonderful food and wine and felt good supporting a very small business rather than going somewhere more commercial (not that many places are very commercial around here).
    Not very taken with the hostal but we have sheets and towels and our own bathroom which is good.
    Still thinking about Freddie and lit a candle for him at the church of San Andres in Zariquiegui    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    2

    Zubiri to Pamplona - a day of flowers

    26 de mayo de 2024, España ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Walking today was full of the sounds of water - running in channels alongside the path and then in the river Arba. The weather is warm today but not too hot - plenty of shade on the path but also banks of wild flowers and the scent of wild roses and honeysuckle.
    I heard my first nightingale today - hoping for many more.
    We left around 7.30 and arrived in Pamplona at about 2. I had my first good nights sleep at Suseia in Zubiri and tonight at the Aloha hostel in Pamplona there are sheets and towels for the first time which is very exciting. Caroline and I stayed here last time and I think we have the identical room but one floor up.
    It didn’t seem quite so far to the hostel this time - maybe we are a bit less tired this time?
    The walk today was moderate - some undulations but fundamentally quite level. First coffee didn’t happen until about 10k but when it did it was good - delicious coffee and a great spinach tortilla.
    Managed to buy more cherries on the walk into Pamplona despite it being a Sunday so all good on the cherry craving front.
    Now planning to explore the city a bit and hopefully get into the cathedral which we didn’t do last time if I remember right.
    Well the cathedral was closed - again - so I’ll just have to come back again!
    It suddenly cooled down this afternoon so I was very cold in my summer dress - but still managed a fab ice cream after tapas at Bar Groucho with other friends from the Camino. Then back to the hostel where we sat around in the living area chatting for a while before what I’m hoping will be another early night and good sleep.
    The city is still buzzing but I’m tired.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    1

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    24 de mayo de 2024, España ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    This is going to be a short entry because I’m feeling very sad.
    My precious and beloved springer spaniel Freddie died today. I didn’t really get to say a proper goodbye to him because I’m here. But he was with Richard Olivia Sasha Toby and Arthur who loved him too. I’m now imagining that he will be on this Camino with me, with his favourite tennis ball and enjoying lots of swimming in the rivers.
    Scenery beautiful, weather beautiful, many tears.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero

    Orisson to Roncesvalles

    24 de mayo de 2024, Francia ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Pretty rubbish night at Orisson hostel with whispering (couple opposite my bed) snoring and people going in and out to the loo - I was right by the door so the hall light shone onto me every time someone got up. The whole dorm started moving before 6 despite breakfast starting at 7 (and you do need to eat breakfast at this place as there is nothing certain until Roncesvalles!).
    Anyway I got over having to get up 45 minutes earlier than I wanted and felt better after a couple of cups of coffee.
    Set off at 7.50 in beautiful weather and had the most glorious walk in the high Pyrenees. Cool air but bright sun, perfect for walking and I saw the snow capped peaks that I missed last time because of the cloud. Also a pair of eagles - tried to get a photograph but very difficult to capture them.
    Ate a picnic lunch with the last of the sandwiches from home, crisps and an apple in a field with a horse but not a person in sight.
    We arrived in Roncesvalles just before 1 and checked into the monastery. I really wanted to stay here but was feeling quite nervous as I was concerned that it would be very basic and cold. In fact it’s wonderful - I still may not get any sleep but the dorms are fab and the facilites great. Lots of hot water, single sex bathrooms great laundry facilities, vending machines with everything you might need and wonderful grounds with washing lines to dry the clothes. My washing is already clean and dry!
    After arriving went to the local bar for very welcome beer and chips - hoping the meal tonight will be as good!
    Have done my Pilates stretches and now ready for dinner and then hopefully more sleep than last night!
    Very sad news from home so could t write any more - sorry 😔    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero

    At Orisson

    23 de mayo de 2024, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Had a fab sleep and finally warmed up (they have blankets here) then pottered around until dinner. Very busy cena with introductions from all the other pilgrims at the end of the meal.
    Despite all the good stuff I’m feeling anxious because the news from home about freddie (my springer spaniel) is not good. He has a raging infection and has been on a drip at the vets all day. I took him before I left as I was worried about him but he seems a lot worse. He’s quite old and I’m very worried about him. My family are doing a great job but I’m feeling very guilty about not being there to help them and him. They are all in my thoughts tonight.Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    1

    St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

    23 de mayo de 2024, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Well I’m definitely not as fit as I was last year! This was very hard - felt almost vertical at times. My legs were fine but felt like I was about to expire at moments.
    Had a reasonable night at Auberge Bidean - quite a lot of coughing noises but still slept enough. Didn’t need an early start as Orisson is only about three hours away - although we did it faster than that despite feeling knackered for most of it. Had a wander round the beautiful St Jean. Lit a candle in the church and had a delicious breakfast of fab coffee and the best pain au raisin ever.
    Set off about 9.45 in perfect (for hard walking) weather. Cool and quite cloudy but dry.
    I am a bit worried as I did find this stage really hard but am hoping I will get fitter quite quickly.
    Arrived at Orisson and found our beds in a ten person dorm then went for a drink and I had a bowl of soup as was feeling very cold having got sweaty on the climb. Unfortunately that didn’t really help and I just got colder and colder. Eventually my fingers - all ten - went white and stopped working so I had to use my precious shower token in an attempt to warm up.
    It has worked thank goodness and have done my bit of washing and now have eaten some of my day old sandwiches with crisps. Aiming to have a short sleep this afternoon as I am still feeling tired. Will check back in later!    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero

    And the end of the first day

    22 de mayo de 2024, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Arrived at St Jean in the pouring rain so had to hastily find and don huge poncho thing -but it actually worked well. Got to the Auberge Beilan without going wrong as it’s close to where I stayed last year. No bunks and lots of lovely people so all very good. Dinner was fab - home cooked soup and veggie dish followed by fabulous chocolate torte. After dinner went for a short walk - the town is stunning and the weather had Clea Ed so we could see some mountains. Recorded my first birdsong.
    Now lights are out and someone is already snoring gently! I’m going to be wearing headphones! But very tired so hope I’ll sleep through any communal noise that seeps through.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero

    A long day

    22 de mayo de 2024, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Still on the train heading south but nearly at Bayonne now - it’s the next stop.
    Having got up at 3.30am I’m feeling a bit tired but hopefully that means I’ll sleep tonight whatever the dormitory is like. The train is good and this leg is quiet. I’ve read a bit, watched a bit of tv and tried to snooze but not very successfully. I’m not good at sleeping on transport. Looking forward to an hour in Bayonne as the sun is shining on and off and then the final stretch to St Jean Pied de Port and the Albergue. Temperature outside is 20 and not raining so all good!Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultCamino de nuevoViajero
    1

    The beginning

    22 de mayo de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Finally on my way for a second Camino Frances! I’m feeling very blessed as it’s been touch and go for so long. Despite plans to walk with Cressida going back to sometime last year I was then hospitalised in the Marsden for 10 days in January and left with massive loss of strength and huge dietary problems - so thought I’d never make it Then I injured my knee treating to go back to ballet too quickly. However owing to some fantastic professionals (my team at the Marsden, Tracey Vinnicombe sports therapist) and my amazing family I’m on the Eurostar ready to depart and feeling pretty strong again.
    I haven’t done much practice this time with the bag and the hills but hoping I’ll get fit as I go (going over the Pyrenees!)    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajero

    Last entry I promise - to the town of Mu

    12 de julio de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Final steps into the little town of Muxia.
    From the parador we walked along the path behind the beach back onto the Camino for the last time.
    The path curves along by the quiet road into Muxia.
    Muxia is on a headland with the town stretching from the port on one side to the bay on the other. The iconic chapel and ‘stone boat’ are out on the headland. First we went to explore the port side and of course came across first, James, about to set off on the bus to Santiago! He’s really quite an unlikely Camino soulmate but seems to be the person who inevitably pops up at every significant moment. Then as we were drinking coffee, Alan and Janet walked past - also on their way to the bus but in this case to Finisterre as they had walked the Muxia route and were going on to spend a few days in Finisterre. They are bound for a Japanese Camino next apparently. Also met up with Geoff and Sailor, father and daughter from Chicago who we fist came across at Santa Marina - Casa Pepa. So many great people.
    Delicious churros with the coffee.
    Then out to the rocks, the chapel, the Herida sculpture and the real ending - although there have been a few. We were blessed with perfect weather again, clouds and sun making for a dramatic backdrop to a dramatic landscape.
    After climbing to the very top where we could look down on both sides of the town as well as across to the parador and further we walked back into the town to find some lunch. On the way we saw what I think must have been dolphins chasing a shoal of fish which was extremely exciting
    Lunch in a little restaurant in a street behind the port was perfect - salad, local bread, padrón peppers and chips (and fish for Richard).
    It took about 45 minutes to walk back to the parador - I chose to walk along the beach (Richard had stayed behind in the town to get a couple of presents).
    I’ve clearly and very evidently run out of superlatives for this whole experience and this area. All I can say is, if you’re reading this and tempted to try it, do it!! It’s a unique and very special experience.
    I’m in the process of applying to be a hospitalero at Guacelmo in the future and really hoping I’ll be accepted - maybe even for next year. I definitely feel the need to give something back for my Camino.
    Also still hoping there will be others!
    Stop press: bumped into my German friend at the airport (he of the vegan hostels who was not vegetarian and didn’t like the food and didn’t speak a word of English or Spanish - and I speak no German). So regardless of the fact that we can’t understand each other at all we had a hug and a ‘conversation’ somehow. He is on his way back to Frankfurt - he loved his Camino, got his Compostela and continued on to Finisterre and Muxia. Having been his dorm companion for several nights it felt very sad to say goodbye.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajero
    1

    Finisterre to Muxia - the real ending

    11 de julio de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We set off from Finisterre in cool cloud which was lucky as it was another pretty long walk (25km). We came across a very welcome donativo house offering coffee, fruit and snacks where we stopped for a while, in Buxán. The woman who ran it was Falician but had lived in the UK in Chichester for 19 years so spoke perfect English. She was reading a huge hardback copy of Women Running with wolves. I’m inspired to read it.
    The sun was out by the time we stopped to have breakfast at a hotel bar looking over another beautiful beach. From here although warm in the sun there was plenty of shade as the path led through trees for much of the time. It was quite hard going - a lot of steep climbs and then some rocky downhill parts. We had a second coffee in Lires and the headed off the main Camino path just before Muxia to reach the parador at Costa da Morte.
    The path was mainly inland and although we were parallel to the sea the whole time we rarely saw it. Lots of wind turbines though - Galicia is definitely committed to renewable energy.
    The Costa da Morte parador is an extraordinary hotel - built very recently into the hillside - at first sight a bit like a telly tubby house. The floors go down rather than up (reception is zero and then down to the rooms from there) and the lift goes sideways as well as down. Quite surreal. But all beautifully designed. Hotels are generally not my best thing but this is the most beautifully designed one I’ve ever stayed in and I would love to return.
    The room was striking with lots of interesting features (like a loo that lights up at night!). It had a view over a green flowery meadow to what is undoubtedly the loveliest beach I’ve ever seen or been to. A perfect y red ent of white sand, crystal clear blue water and deserted! Nothing around it except the hotel and that is designed into the hillside. Added bonus that the path down while it starts reasonably easy, is relatively long and ends with a bit of a scramble onto the beach so most people seem to be out off by that and don’t bother going down there. Perfect for those who do go! But I guess that’s very selfish! No umbrellas or infrastructure of any kind so only for the dedicated swimmer!
    I loved it!
    We didn’t walk into Muxia immediately but had some lunch, rested, and went to the beach leaving the very last part of the Camino to the next day.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajero

    Cee to Finisterre - to the end of the wo

    10 de julio de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    This was a short day in principle - only about 12km to Finisterre town but then another 3.5 km each way up to the lighthouse and point zero. We were close to the sea for most of the way and caught our first glimpse of the lighthouse and the official end of the journey through a gateway looming over the sea.
    As we arrived at the beginning of the long beach leading into the town I met James again. He has always seemed to appear at key moments of my Camino and this was no exception. He was leaving for a two day saunter to Muxia with a new camino friend - Dirk (who had walked the Norte). These Camino connections are quite extraordinary.
    We dumped our bags, very gratefully at our accommodation and had a cold drink in town, before continuing up to the lighthouse. Quite a hot and long uphill trudge but all worth it for the exhilarating feeling of reaching the end. Actually, to me mixed with sadness as I didn’t want to finish. I’m pleased and grateful for having been able to manage this journey but so very sad that I am no longer a pilgrim, with all my stuff on my back and in a new place every night.
    We spent a while at the lighthouse, drank a beer, took photos, and then it was time to walk back down into the village.
    Just before reaching the main part of a Finisterre there was a beautiful beach so we spent s bit of time there swimming before heading back to our room.
    This was a cabana right on the other side of town - perfect for setting off to wards Muxia in the morning but a bit out of the way for getting in and out of town. It was beautifully equipped and even had a hot tub (indoor) but I wasn’t really feeling up to doing anything other than eating and going to bed as the sore throat I’d had for a few days had now definitely developed into a very tiresome cold. So the lovely accommodation was a bit wasted on me as I just slept - but the bed was very comfortable which helped a bit.
    Before expiring for the night we found a great little restaurant in the town which specialises in local cuisine/produce but also has a number of vegetarian/vegan options. Also very good local wine with my new favourite godello grape. I have to say we only found this place as a result of completely failing to find the place where I could get my Finisterre certificate which had closed by the time we eventually located it. I might be able to apply by post but assuming that doesn’t work then it’s something to look forward to another time.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajero
    111

    Santa Marina to Cee - new resolutions

    9 de julio de 2023, España ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We left Santa Marina just after dawn this morning - a beautiful sunrise and not raining.
    The air was cool but perfect for walking in a t shirt.
    Early landscapes were misty and very quiet. Having not walked a ‘Brierley’ stage yesterday we have been pretty much alone - only one other walking pilgrim so far.
    However, despite all the loveliness I’m feeling very sad. The agriculture here is basically a mono culture of maize - I’m guessing to feed the cows, who are horribly confined in dark smelly barns. Unlike the countryside before Santiago where the cows were grazing in the open, here there are no fields with cattle - only endless fields of sweetcorn interspersed with huge barns full of dirty looking cows. I will have to be vegan again I think - no option when I have things like that imprinted on my memory!
    Anyway things improved after walking through Obreiroa and Hospital. We were into wild moorland with not a sweetcorn plant to be seen. Just heather and pines and huge rocks - the latter useful for sitting on to eat our lunch. Lunch was two days old Tetilla and bread, crisps, bananas and Coca Cola. I was so hungry and still had about 15km to go.
    It was a long day - 33km in all - but lovely second half. Very quiet. There were two tiny chapels (Capela das Neves and Capela De San Pedro Mártir) with healing waters where we took a break briefly (I threw some on my head!!) but as we were still quite a long way from Cee at 3pm we really had to keep moving.
    The final downhill into Cee was steep but the view of the sea made it exciting. My feet were beginning to complain a bit by this time and by the time we reached the hotel I was ready to drop. The room was comfortable and after a shower and a short rest we went out to explore the town, have a drink and find something to eat.
    Most places were closed as it was Sunday but we found a bar for a glass of wine and then a great restaurant with gourmet level veggie food (thanks again to Happy Cow) so I was happy.    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajero

    Negreira to Santa Marina

    8 de julio de 2023, España ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Negreira was in major celebration mode last night - there were fireworks fairly early but then the music went on ALL NIGHT! Luckily we were far enough away from the centre on town not to be disturbed really, but I woke up periodically and it was still going at 5.15am - the last time I woke before I had to get up.
    It had actually stopped by 6.30 when my alarm went off. I really admire their stamina - I guess that why everything was closed yesterday and we had to join the ranks of the sad pilgrims looking for food!
    Anyway we started our walk today with an alternative Brierley route along a stunning waiver with cascades every few metres. Found a coffee stop after about 10km when it had been raining for about 30 minutes. I got the first use of my new poncho (I only used the other one once before somehow losing it somewhere around Santiago). This one seems good and is very easy to get on over the rucksack and was a godsend today as it was showery and I really needed it.
    The landscape varied from forests to open fields of maize and cereals as well as grazing pastures for cattle. Lots of birdsong, but not up to the meseta.
    Our Albergue had given us a sort of packed lunch in lieu of breakfast, which was perfect, so we finally stopped to eat that on the path not far from our new Albergue in Santa Marina. At which point the heavens opened again and it was back on with the poncho.
    Now we are in the Albergue. Clean and basic but looks like the food should be fine and available so hopefully I won’t get as hungry as I did last night when we had to wait until after 8!to get anything to eat.
    Food also basic (cheese bocadillo and chips and salad as veggies) but good. Chilled evening - pulled myself out of the relegation zone on Duolingo! And an early night. But I have a sore throat which is a bit worrying with a 32km day in prospect. Have taken paracetamol!    Leer más

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoViajero

    Santiago to Negreira - on my way to the

    7 de julio de 2023, España ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We left Santiago in dense mist - even the Cathedral square was swathed in cloud.
    The Camino out of Santiago was as well sign posted as our route into the city. This was not really what I had expected but we soon settled into a confident reliance on the same yellow arrows and accurate Galician granite marker posts - now counting down to Finisterre rather than to Santiago.
    We walked in mist for about the first 10km and when we stopped for a coffee it almost seemed to be about to start to rain. The Italian girl we had been walking with (Federica- originally from Bari - studying near Bologna) put her waterproof cover on her back pack. She had been in Santiago after walking the Camino Portuguese from Porto. She is at a transitional moment in her life, trying to decide whether to embark on a PhD or to try to find a job. She has travelled widely and been travelling for a while following finishing her degree earlier this year.
    Anyway in the end instead of raining it cleared up beautifully and the rest of the day was perfect - sunny but with cool air and a breeze.
    We had brought bread and Tetilla (Galician cheese) with us and shared this with Federica in a beautiful village O Ponte Maceira. We sat by a clear fast flowing river and after eating I swam before we continued on to Negreira.
    It really was a sublimely beautiful day and the walk on to Negreira was easy and enjoyable.
    After reaching our Albergue the weather clouded over and now it’s raining quite heavily. I think we are all hoping that it will be dry by the morning.
    Negreira is quite a substantial town but bizarrely almost completely closed up this Friday afternoon. They are having a big festival over the weekend (Christmas like lights suspended over the streets, fairground rides and stalls etc) but for some reason this seems to involve all the shops closing, and many of the bars and restaurants too. There were a lot of quite sad looking pilgrims wandering around - we had been warned that this was the last place to stick up on food etc before the coast and there are, apparently, large stretches of the Camino coming up where there are no devices of any kind. So it’s a bit of an issue not being able to get anything in Negreira. We finally found, thanks to Hapoy Cow, a place that did a couple of vegetarian options for dinner so now I’m no longer hungry. I was actually very hungry and increasingly hangrily despondent. But all resolved now thank goodness.
    As we’re planning to leave fairly early tomorrow we’re not having breakfast and so the Albergue has very generously given us lots of stuff to take with us - so we will be okay if we can carry it and fit it into the rucksacks.    Leer más

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