• Kelly Smith
juli 2023

Vietnam, Cambodia & Thailand

En 24-dags äventyr från Kelly Läs mer
  • More Temples and Cooking

    20 juli 2023, Kambodja ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Today was not as early of a start, but we were still set to go by 8 am. Back on the bus, we were off to our first temple spot of the day. Prerup temple is significant because it is very old and combines two styles of architecture. Many of us chose to climb to the top, but all of a sudden, a swarm of bees appeared! We made our way down the steps pretty quickly and avoided any trouble with the bees.

    The next temple was a temple in the middle of an intentionally flooded plain. We had to walk across a long bridge to get to it and on the way found red ant (bullet ants) colony in the trees. Our guide stopped and ate some, telling us they were a good snack!

    The final temple of the day was set back quite far from the road, so we had to hike in to get there. Again, the high structures were impressive and the vast number of stone carvings was pretty mind blowing. I’ve also learned a lot about Hinduism and Buddhism along the way, although trying to remember the names of reigning kings has been impossible.

    We were all “templed out” by this point as the humidity had been quite high. We decided yo go for a group lunch, but so many people want to eat Western food while we are here (this, I don’t get). Luckily, Tong found a place that served both Khmer and Western food. I had a jungle juice (made with a variety of fruits and ginseng) and a red curry while Brad had a few Cambodian beers and a green curry. The portions were huge and we were quite full by the time were done.

    Brad and I decided to go to a local handicraft market and buy a few things before going back to our hotel to cool off.

    At 4, we were picked up by our cooking class instructor. He took us, by tuk tuk, to his local village where we shopped at the outdoor market for the ingredients. We have been to see many of these markets, but this one was quite rural and we were absolutely the only white people there. Our instructor showed us a variety of different produce and then he bought us two huge grasshoppers to try, which we ate! They were more crunchy than anything and not half bad! We also bought fresh chicken and fish, which he explained would be washed in salt water once we got to his house in order to kill the bacteria because as you know, nothing is refrigerated here.

    We drove to his house where we would be cooking and got to meet his wife and son. We were greeted with fresh coconuts to drink and some guava that we bought at the market. While his wife cleaned our ingredients, he and his eight year old son took us on a walking tour of their village. Along the way, he showed us all the plants that grow naturally around town and explained how they were used in cooking. We even got to smell and taste fresh cumin leaves, tamarind leaves, and lemongrass. Then, we walked through a little house where they were washing off their water buffalo for the evening as the buffalo basically sleep right next to their house.

    Back at the house, we got our aprons and chef hats on and got ready to make a green mango salad, create our own green curry paste from scratch, prepare mini bananas for a dessert, and then cook everything! To start, we had green mango salad with chicken, followed by amok fish which is a very traditional dish that is like a green curry with fish and noni leaves. We finished with a banana dessert made with palm sugar and pandan leaves. There was so much food that we were bursting at the seams! The experience took about four hours, but it was such a unique and eye opening cooking class! Highly recommended should you visit Siem Reap!

    Our tuk tuk driver (the instructor’s neighbour!) took us back to our hotel in the pouring rain. This is the type of weather I thought we’d get a lot of considering it’s rainy season, but we have been so lucky with it only raining in the evenings. Apparently, there is a tour that is one day behind us and they ran into a typhoon in Vietnam and couldn’t go to Halong Bay because they closed it. They had also closed the Hanoi airport during the typhoon! Anyway, we have been blessed with incredible weather!

    Tired, full, and needing to get packed, we called it an early night (as opposed to meeting our group on Pub Street). Tomorrow we leave Cambodia and go to our last stop, Bangkok! I will really miss having our guide, our bus, and our group mates as it has made traveling in these very different countries so much easier and such a delight!
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  • Goodbye Cambodia, Hello Thailand

    21 juli 2023, Thailand ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    We left our hotel at 7:30 am to get a jump on the long journey to Thailand. Our time in Cambodia was too brief, but so enjoyable. I will say that the constant barrage of people trying to sell us things has been difficult, especially when it has been small children peddling souvenir magnets and small trinkets. You are told not to buy anything from the children because they want the kids to be in school and not on the streets. This is a catch-22 because parents have to pay up to $25USD a month for school. However, if you don’t have money (which is why you and your children are out selling souvenirs) then you can’t send your child to school.

    On our journey we ran into several political rallies that held us up. There’s an election soon, and today is the last day to rally. While Cambodia calls itself a democracy, it really isn’t because there’s only one party running; the opposition “didn’t have the right paperwork” to run. Nonetheless, people in rural areas are out in droves and very excited to support their current prime ministers re-election.

    We reached the Cambodian border about an hour later than anticipated. Tong said that 15 years ago, the border was incredibly dangerous because of muggings, robberies, and other crimes, but now the border features a ton of casinos and they have security so it has become much safer. We got through Cambodian security with no issues and then had to walk to the Thai border. Tong warned us that we could be there for up to three hours as the guards love to ask a ton of questions. Lady Luck was on our side again as there was no one in line ahead of us and our whole group took less than 15 minutes to get through security!

    We loaded into two luxury vans and drove for another two hours before stopping for lunch. Once again, lunch was as at a “truck stop” but not like our truck stops. This one had a men’s clothing store, a restaurant, a dozen food stalls and a 7-11. We pointed at some food at a stall and hoped for the best! There were a lot of English signs in Cambodia because they rely heavily on tourism, but in Thailand, not so much. Anyway, we ended up with some spicy pork, glass noodles, stir fried veggies, and a curry with chicken but also… organ meat. It was all fairly good, all things considered. Then we popped into 7-11 to get a sweet treat and after looking at all the cool food products, I said to Brad, “We are going to have a lot of fun with food in Thailand!” There are SO many interesting things to try!

    Back in our van, it was another two hours before we got to our hotel in Bangkok. Our hotel is the nicest one we have stayed in and it sits right on the edge of Chinatown. The street is lined when people and food carts, so we are excited for our food tour on Sunday!

    As always, we had a quick refresh and then went on a walking tour where we saw the Royal Palace. Tong also bought us durian to try! The fruit is supposed to smell so bad that you can’t bring it into hotels or on the subway! And while it didn’t smell pleasant, the fruit itself was delicious! Almost custard like in texture, so it would make a great ice cream.

    At 7:15, we gathered for the final supper. Tong took us by metro to a Thai restaurant. Brad had Tom Yum soup with seafood and I had pad Thai with seafood. The soup was excellent, but we have had better pad Thai before. Nonetheless, we all gave speeches about the trip and shed some tears as we thanked Tong for being so kind, knowledgeable, and patient. Honestly, we could not have had a better guide or group! We all got on like a house on fire and apparently that’s not always the case.

    We took tuk tuks (way different here, they drive like maniacs!) to the street of clubs and bars to have one last drink. This area reminded me of a big high school party where the music is too loud and everyone is a bit sweaty. We sat on tiny plastic stools, listened to a Thai cover band (hello “Summer of ‘69!), drank Chang beer, and took a ton of pictures before calling it a night. We were fortunate to share our last tuk tuk ride with Tong, which was so lovely because we will miss him terribly!

    After hugs in the lobby, we were off to bed. It was already midnight and we need to be up at 6 to go on our first tour without our “Sticky Rice Family”
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  • Ancient City

    22 juli 2023, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Since we have grown accustomed to tours, we booked one that took us to the ancient capital city of Thailand, Ayutthaya. Our hotel had a driver take us to the meeting point (so nice!) and then we hopped on a bus with about 15 other people.

    We drove for about 90 minutes and got to see some of the Bangkok “suburbs” along the way. It really is a mix of old stacked housing and new planned housing. I will say that Bangkok is the cleanest city we have been to, but the amount of single use plastic in SE Asia is a pretty concerning. They even give you a plastic bag that holds your iced coffee (and I’m given a straw with basically every beverage, sometimes bamboo but mostly plastic).

    We arrived at our first temple around 9. It was the largest one we were going to see as it was the original Royal Palace; however, the Burmese razed it to the ground in 1767, so we were mostly seeing remnants that survived. What was especially neat for us is that this temple combined the Khmer style with the Thai style, so while the temple looked similar to some in Cambodia, they had a new look to them. This one also featured a Buddha head in a tree, which was so neat to see!

    We stayed there for about an hour before hopping back on the bus to visit our second temple in the ancient city. This site was a bit smaller, but the three huge stupas were really beautiful. We also got to see an enormous Buddha which was originally in the temple, but was moved to a more modern structure for protection. Before we left, we also saw elephants! They were just walking down the sidewalk (giving rides) and I was just an arm’s length away - ahhh - as they walked by! Elephants were used in both Cambodia and Thailand for war, and you see everyone here (okay, tourists) wearing pants with elephants all over them.

    Our final temple stop was to see a huge reclining Buddha. This was the main feature and it was certainly impressive! Having some extra time here, we stopped at a vendor who was selling durian popsicles! This time you could definitely smell the terrible smell and if you licked it, it sort of tasted unpleasant. However, if you bit it and ate it, it was creamy and fruity. So bizarre!

    Next, we drove about one hour to get on our boat cruise, which would take us back into Bangkok. Bangkok is actually a city of canals, which I did not know. It’s also sinking at a rate of 5 inches a year, so flooding is often quite bad and getting much worse.

    On the boat, we had a great view and a lunch buffet that featured mainly Thai food. The food here is noticeably more spicy! There was a great selection of dishes and we had fun trying almost everything! We also got to see Bangkok from another perspective. There are houses on stilts and then luxury waterfront homes right beside them. Again, it’s an odd juxtaposition of living spaces. It was also neat to see the many waterfront Buddhas and temples.

    After about a 1 1/2-2 hour ride, we docked and our hotel driver whisked us back to the hotel where we promptly took a nap.

    We didn’t have any dinner plans because there are honestly a million places to eat and Bangkok is so big that it isn’t quick or easy to get to other neighborhoods. So, with some Googling, I came across Sam Lor, which means tuk tuk. It looked like our kind of joint, so we got out our umbrellas and walked to it. When we arrived, they told us they were fully booked for the evening. We were about to leave, but then the host said we could occupy a table briefly and then when the couple at the bar left, we could eat there. Success!

    We started with a tamarind cider and a craft beer before moving to the countertop. Then we had oysters in seaweed butter; chef’s choice fried rice; fried squid with salted egg; beef krapow; and finally the Thai style omelette which was basically an omelette inside a soufflé! We ordered way too much as usual, but everything was so good and there was so much we wanted to try! As a show of gratitude for getting us in, we bought the kitchen staff a round of beer and left feeling so full and pretty darn happy!

    On our walk to the restaurant we had seen a cute little bar called Very Nice Bar, so we popped in on our way back to have a nightcap (matcha fizz for me and a sour-sour for Brad). The drinks were as cute as the place and we had a nice time looking at pictures from today’s temple visit.

    Luckily, we don’t need to get up early tomorrow, and I will enjoy a restful morning for a change!
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  • Chatuchak Market and Food Tour

    23 juli 2023, Thailand ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    This morning we got to sleep in! I don’t know the last time that we did that. Anyway, we were still up at 7:30 because the midday gets so hot that you almost have to break your day up.

    We had a quick breakfast at the hotel and then took the metro to the Chatuchak Market. This is supposedly the largest outdoor market in Asia and I believe it! It had everything you could ever need: serving ware, dishes, clothing, makeup, art, antiques, massage places, cafes, and of course, food stalls! We wandered the maze of shops for several hours and picked out souvenirs for others and ourselves. We also tried the Thai tea iced latte (it is orange in colour!), pork meatballs with tamarind, and ate a whole bowl of little octopi! On our way out, we grabbed a little bowl of malted Biscoff ice cream as well. We had such a great time there!

    Back on the metro, which was way busier, we headed back to Chinatown and took some time to do a load of laundry and cool down. Our street good tour was at 4:30 and we were so excited as our street is absolutely lined with vendors (and it goes on for blocks)!

    We met our small group of 6 people and were immediately swept down a series of small alleyways to a street we hadn’t even come across. We popped into a small restaurant and tried Chinese chive cakes and some incredibly tender pork with garlic, chilies, and a spicy sauce. Then it started to absolutely pour! We got out our umbrellas and rain ponchos were handed out so we could weave our way to the next stop.

    Next, we had a chicken satay with peanut sauce followed by a chicken soup made with mung bean glass noodles. We were sitting under a tarp-like overhang, so it felt like a true street food experience as we tried not to get wet while perched on tiny plastic stools.

    We stopped briefly at a cart to have a “healthy green drink” that tasted like spinach before moving on to curry. We actually went to the place that is on Netflix’s Street Food Asia show to have this Chinese version of curry, which had winter melon and a Chinese sausage. It was excellent! This was followed by a brief stop to eat slices of deliciously sweet jackfruit! Then we went to the sketchiest alley to drink rice wine with a green mango as a chaser. I’ve had rice wine several times on this trip and still can’t say I’m a huge fan. Boy, does it burn!

    Next up was a very peppery soup with rolled noodles and pork, followed by the craziest thing ever - soy sauce ice cream. Sounds crazy, but was so, so good!! Almost like a malted milk or salted caramel.

    Our second to last stop was at T and K Restaurant, known for its seafood. We had huge prawns with a spicy green sauce, morning glory in oyster sauce, chicken drumsticks, and a sour soup with sea bass and squid.

    We were so full, but we still went to two more stalls to have Chinese donuts with pandan sauce and sticky rice with mango. Whew.

    A little wet, but a lot full, we went back to our hotel to rest before turning in.
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  • Canals, Temples & Sky Trains

    24 juli 2023, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    We had another tour booked for this morning, so we were up early and at the lobby around 7:45. A lovely Thai man met us and informed us that we were the only people on the tour - yay!

    We took a van to the pier where we loaded onto a skinny little covered boat and set off on the river before making a turn into the canal system where many Bangkok residents live. If your house is on stilts in the canal, you don’t have to pay any land rights, so as you can imagine, many poor people live right on the river. However, the rich have started to move in and build big canal-side palaces right next to the run-down houses.

    Along the way, we saw huge monitor lizards (similar to the Komodo dragon but not dangerous)! We also stopped at a canal-side temple where the catfish are considered protected from fishing. These catfish have been well trained because as soon as our boat stopped, they were clamouring at the surface because they knew we were going to feed them - and we did! A little kitschy, but pretty fun to see! From the maze of canals, we also got to see a huge Buddha emerge from behind the houses.

    After leaving the canals, we made our way to Wat Aron to see the temple that is covered entirely by Chinese ceramics. It is not like any other temple and was so beautiful!

    Then, back on the boat, we went to a pier so we could get back in the van and drive to the Royal Palace. The palace and grounds are so big that I’m glad we had our guide. He manoeuvred us through throngs of tourists so that we could just see the important things like the emerald Buddha! We also found out that 10 monks are being ordained by the King tomorrow so the palace would be mostly closed, so we were glad to have made it there today. The King is not very popular at the moment as he basically ousted the elected prime minister (a young man) because the prime minister wanted to reduce the power of the King. Also, the King has been divorced three times and that’s a big no no in Buddhism.

    Our tour ended with a ride back to our hotel. It is great to have air-conditioned vehicle transport in the city because it’s always so hot.

    We decided to go to a restaurant called Bona for lunch. We hired a tuk-tuk driver, some after some shrewd negotiation by Brad. For 100 baht we got to our destination. For lunch, we had the green curry with winter melon, morning glory sautéed with oyster sauce, and a pork stirfry. Everything was excellent, and only a little bit spicy for our palates. After lunch was over, we began to walk back to the hotel, but one of the temples we wanted to see was on the way. This one features an entirely gold Buddha, as in solid gold. It was a quick stop but well worth it.

    Back at the hotel, we decided to make use of the rooftop pool and the happy hour. We went for a little swim (while trying to stay in the shade). Then we had two for one draft beers poolside. There are probably not too many days that we get to sit at the rooftop pool, drinking Sigha beer and looking out at the Bangkok skyline.

    Supper was going to make us go far away from where we are staying. We had to navigate the subway, which we had done before, but then get onto the skytrain which was new for us. It was also kind of rush-hour, so this was a bit more complicated, but we eventually found our way to Err Bangkok. We had seen Err featured on an episode of Somebody Feed Phil, so we were excited to try it for ourselves. Our cocktails were so good (Flower market no. 1 for me and a spicy passion fruit drink for Brad). In SE Asia, food just comes out when it’s ready and all our food came at the same time. We had satay with a spicy sauce, red curry with chicken and winter melon, a pork dish with a runny egg, Chinese style BBQ pork ribs. Everything we had was solid.

    After dinner, it was still pretty early so we decided to walk a little ways to a craft beer bar. There’s a high taxation on craft beer, so these are hard to come by. This one was a heavy metal/morgue themed craft beer bar, and we were the only people there when we arrived however, it quickly filled up. Here, you can order what they have on tap or select a canned beer from their many refrigerators and they pour it for you.

    We had lots of fun at the craft beer bar, but had to get back to our hotel. We have learned everything in Bangkok is really far apart and while they have good transportation, it can often be challenging to connect the different types of transportation to get from one place to the next. It took us 45 minutes to get home on the subway and we were exhausted by the time we got here but it was another great day in Bangkok!
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  • Last Day in Bangkok

    24 juli 2023, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    This morning we slept in a bit as we didn’t have a tour planned. After breakfast, we decided to go see an art show at one of the metro stations. We had seen this show advertised on our many metro trips and we have seen very little non-religious art on this trip, so it seemed like a good option.

    We rode the metro for about 30 minutes and arrived at the station. The show was by a Thai artist who has a distinct graffiti style. The show was small, but his work was colourful and I think he achieved his goal of spreading happiness through his work.

    After the show, we thought we’d try our luck at hail a taxi to take us to the Museum of Contemporary Art. As this museum is privately funded, it was built in an odd residential-like neighborhood. The first cab driver just refused to take us there, but we convinced the second one to take us (despite him not speaking any English and us not speaking any Thai). The ride probably took about 20 minutes and we helped him navigate by using basic right and left commands.

    The museum did not disappoint! It had five floors of mostly contemporary artwork by Thai artists. Some of my favourites included a collection of masks from different SE Asian countries as well as paper puppets. To see the different representations of Hindu gods was very neat! We spent a few hours exploring the galleries before grabbing a couple quick sandwiches and making our way back to the train system. Getting back to our hotel was no easy task, but we eventually got there!

    We spent time cooling down and then getting ready for dinner. We were going to have to take the metro to dinner, so we left a bit early. When we arrived at our destination station, we were spit out into the weirdest area of roadways and a sketchy looking sidewalk. Walking quickly, we finally found the Issaya Siamese Club tucked away behind a wall and trees. Despite the neighborhood surroundings, it was an absolute oasis.

    We were seated in the beautiful dining room of the French colonial style home and ordered drinks (a pandan cooler for me and Brad had a sour fizz with gin, lemon and kefir leaf). We decided to order the set menu. Our server brought us four amuse bouche to start: oysters, little chicken and chili cups, a coconut creme brûlée, and satay.

    Our first courses came all at once: salmon pad Thai (the salmon acted as the noodles!); spice rubbed pork ribs; and a banana flower and heart of palm salad. This was followed by the main course of massan curry with lamb shank; river prawns with a spicy pepper sauce; a rice and mushroom dish; charcoal grilled and flambéed chicken. To finish, we had a jasmine panna cotta with passion fruit and pineapple. The cherry on top was the little glasses of complimentary Thai digestif that tasted like anise and cinnamon. It was such a good way to wrap up not only our time in Thailand, but also a really amazing trip!
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  • Resans slut
    27 juli 2023