Cal’s Camino Adventures

agosto - outubro 2022
Uma 39aventura de um dia na Cal Leia mais
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  • Dia 19

    Day 19

    11 de setembro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today has been the first day that I’ve felt a bit out of it.. a bit flat and a bit lonely.. i guess there was always going to be that one day..
    i had intended to start a bit later today, as it was a shorter day and a flatter one.. it didn’t really happen as everyone else banging their doors and clomping down the corridor, had me so awake that I thought I may as well get going…
    Today’s stage was a bit boring, nothing wrong with it, just long straight flat tracks through wheat fields for miles and miles, with no villages or stops for those that needed it.
    Some days it feels a little bit like a handicapped stage race and I’m always off scratch!!
    Before getting to the wheat fields, I went along a stretch that took me straight back to sitting on the wheel arch of the tractor ( no health and safety in those days 😬 ) with my Dad, cutting the grass and rowing it up for hay.. I wasn’t sure if the memory made me feel really happy or really sad.. but it did make me long for my Dad… amazing how smells and songs ( no songs involved on this occasion ) can evoke such strong emotions and memories…
    Although the stage was a bit monotonous, the weather was again absolutely fabulous, with not a cloud in the sky… it’s supposed to rain for the next 4!!!! Yes 4! day’s!!
    The village I finished in today was incredibly tiny.. another excuse for a guilt free reading session!!
    Dinner was early this evening..6.30.. Yes!!! Don’t know where my appetite has come from, but I was more than ready for dinner… tonight it was chickpea stew ( soup ) and then mackerel… just the mackerel.. no veg 😢 and I had to share my wine with Norbert.. yes, Norbert is staying at the same place and asked to join me !!!
    A bit of a down day ended on the up.. thanks Han, you made my day, and your support is so much appreciated 🥰
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  • Dia 20

    Day 20

    12 de setembro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Monday again… breakfast obviously started earlier today, as I could hear lots of banging of doors and smell bacon from about 6am.. I still didn’t go down until my usual time as there was no point, I didn’t need to leave until 8.
    The forecast had changed slightly and the rain wasn’t due until this afternoon!! Result!!
    Although a bit cloudy to start today, it was actually really really warm.. it was a bit more of the same today, except it wasn’t long straight tracks and it passed through a few small villages .. amazing the difference it made.
    Just on the outskirts of Sahagún, I met a group of walker’s laughing as they wandered along, as I passed them they were all drinking from a bottle of red wine!! .. they even offered me a swig!! I politely declined, but definitely decided it was ok for me to have a beer when i got there!!
    Having had my beer ( not my first 😬 ) and my first paella snack since arriving in Spain ( I was expecting it to be every other meal!! ) I set off to find my accommodation..
    My room is lovely, super clean and bright after yesterday’s dark and gloomy one.. I put my bag down, lay down for a minute ( today was the first time my legs felt really tired ) .. and woke up 2 hours later!!!!
    Showered and sorted, I decided to go in search of a cash machine.. I got as far as the door, it was absolutely hammering down, so I joined Hazel and Yvonne for a beer.. would have been rude not to do so I thought.. it was a lovely hour talking about how we were feeling, finding it, and how quickly you loose your pride about wearing the same few outfits, hanging socks that haven’t dried on your rucksack and the joy of doing your laundry!!
    Then… In walks Rocky!! Real big trucker guy from Wisconsin, really outgoing and friendly … he’d arrived here yesterday, got a halfway certificate, then felt so guilty because he’d actually got a taxi for that stage due to blisters or something, that he’d got a taxi back this morning and hiked it today!!
    For a change ( not! ) I’m really hungry again and counting down till it’s time to eat.. 7 minutes!! I hope it’s not a disappointment 😂😂…
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  • Dia 21

    Day 21

    13 de setembro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Well… dinner last night was good.. it’s all relevant.. at home it would be disappointing.. but I’m not at home!!!!
    Set off usual time.. breakfast was spent with, the German lady, who’s name I can’t remember, and a Spanish couple I meet regularly who’s name’s I don’t know, communicating somehow on what the weather was going to do.. heavy rain, thunder and lightning had been forecast…. Set off with it being too warm for a coat etc., but having everything to hand in a hurry if necessary… every hour I thought.. that’s one hour less walking in the rain!!
    Amazingly… me .. who never seems to know where I’m going, stopped to help two different lots of people on which way the route went.. thank you Camino Ninja!!
    A few hours into it.. and an hour of scary loud thunder later it absolutely hammered down.. not so bad if it hadn’t also started blowing a gale ( no idea where that came from!! ) it was soo cold and wet.. I passed Rocky about 3k before the finish, who commented on my fast legs..we both agreed it was a good day to have fast legs, buen Camino ‘d and off I went… mmm upon reaching today’s destination, I couldn’t find my accommodation.. 25 minutes of wandering around later, I bump into Rocky, who decided to find my accommodation for me before his own.. absolute star ⭐️.. it did turn out we were next door, but hey, he didn’t know that when he set out!
    Hot shower etc etc later, I pop downstairs for a beer!!! Meet up with various people and we all end up together having a couple of beers… Rocky pops his head through the window and invites me to join him, his Sioux Indian friend and Bianca for a kind of odd numbers version of scrabble.. absolutely fab afternoon.. bring on a re run tomorrow!!
    Tonight brought a coming together of about 12 of us…individuals.. ( me , Norbert, the German lady) couples .. 3 American, 1 Canadian .. who all regularly stay at the same place.. pulling tables together and all joining up for dinner… a fabulous evening and one I will always remember when I look back on my Camino… ❤️
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  • Dia 22

    Day 22

    14 de setembro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Well.. today I set off intending to be better prepared for the rain than I was yesterday.. I literally didn’t sleep ( nothing to do with having THE most uncomfortable bed ever ) trying to decide what would be the best thing to wear… we’re talking waterproof or not, not some glamorous going out outfit 🙄😬
    Anyway, after being caught short and ending up soaked before I’d managed to even get my coat on yesterday, I set off wearing everything, hoping I wouldn’t end up sweating (lovely 😳😬 ) underneath before the rain set in….
    It was a very poor breakfast, so I left it and decided to get going.. fortunately it was way colder than yesterday and I ended up perfectly dressed 👍🏼👍🏼
    Again, it was more of a head down and just get there day today, so not too many pictures as my phone was buried under my layers..
    On my arrival, I checked out where I was staying, before going back to the pension for a coffee and some toast ( my new found appetite was calling 😳 )
    Whilst eating I meet Eave ( from Denmark ) as you do!!! and was subsequently joined by Rocky.. he’s given me the trail name Hummingbird.. he’s done all of the major American trails, has so many stories, lived an extraordinary life and someone I’m proud to now consider a friend.. I’ve told him I’ll get a hummingbird charm that will always be a reminder of my Camino 🥰
    The rain and thunder were constant this afternoon and so showered and washing done I started reading and sleeping.. I’m such a lightweight 😬
    I had been intending to catch with Rocky, Doc and Bianca for a few Rhummy??!? games, but didn’t want to get soaked to do so..
    No beer today ( it was definitely a coffee day ) I set off 25 minutes early for dinner thinking I’d have one whilst waiting…. I just wanted an excuse to be there early enough to make sure I got a table 😂
    Whilst I didn’t catch up with “ the crew “ I did end up eating with a couple I’d stayed at the same places as a few times earlier in the trip .. ended up having a fabulous evening and we were joined by older American couple who’d been touring ( on foot ) Croatia/Bosnia and somewhere else before joining the Camino in Pamplona..they were on a tight schedule as they were really close to their visas running out 🙄
    So looking forward to sleeping tonight on a more comfortable bed without worrying about “what to wear” 🙄🙄
    Not many pictures due to the rain..
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  • Dia 23

    Day 23

    15 de setembro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today’s biggest event.. I’ve just lost a toenail 🥴.. not sure how that will feel tomorrow, but hey ho!!
    At the beginning of this walk I did see a few people wearing sandals, or socks and sandals 😳 and it crossed my mind that maybe that was the proper pilgrim way. As the weeks have gone on, I’ve seen more and more.. mostly with feet and/ or toes taped up and big heel plasters on !!
    It seems it’s when your feet are too sore to wear your shoes / boots that’s the thing to do!
    There is one guy on the road at the moment ( I’m feeling a little bit like I’m the only one not to have bumped into him yet ) from Honduras, who’s doing it bare foot!!! He has an incredible back story as to why he’s doing it and I feel sure I’ll be reading a book or seeing a movie about it in a couple of years.. unbelievable story.
    The rain of yesterday and overnight was due to stop about 8ish this morning, so there didn’t seem too greater rush for a lot of people to get going this morning..
    Today’s walk into Leon was never going to be a great one, everything I’d read had already said so. It was fine though, and I was really looking forward to getting to Leon, with it having so much to see and visit.
    I wasn’t disappointed, I’m staying in the old town, lots of small narrow streets bustling with bars and tapas places.. definitely hit lucky with where I’m staying.. I had a fabulous afternoon, just wandering around, visiting the Cathedral etc., drinking beer and eating tapas.. for once I’m really glad dinner isn’t until 8pm.
    I had a very brief panic at 5.45 am when my phone rang, assuming something had happened at home.. nope, it was Rocky .. already 5km out of town, saying he was sorry we didn’t catch up last night, but hopefully would again in the next few days!! 😂😂
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  • Dia 24

    Day 24

    16 de setembro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Not a classic walking day today, mostly flat and boring.. think I’m starting to expect too much 🙄
    I set off later this morning, partly due to breakfast being later.. you know how greedy I’ve become 😂.. and partly because I was finishing today in the middle of nowhere and didn’t want to get there too soon..
    Biggest success today was getting out Leon without going wrong or getting lost 🙄…
    Best thing about starting later was passing people I haven’t seen for a while and having a hug.. Chloe.. Bianca.. or just the abuse I’ve become used to regarding how quickly I walk… there’s about half a dozen people who now say “ Hola speedy “ when I go past.
    It wasn’t difficult to find my accommodation today, it’s literally on the route, so definitely no excuses in the morning..
    I met another lovely couple from Indiana at dinner and spent the evening with them, swapping Camino stories and discussing seriously important issues such as socks, things you can live without that you never believed you could and the need for a pedicure… just keeping it real 😂
    Happy weekend everyone, I’m off to bed as it’s a longer one tomorrow, I’m old and I need my sleep 😬😂.. apologies for rubbish pictures today…
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  • Dia 25

    Day 25

    17 de setembro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Today started off a bit wobbly it’s fair to say.. I’d been up quite a bit in the night with a sore /dodgy tummy ( a bit much information I know 😬 ) and so this morning I was really panicky about setting off on a longer walk, not sure if I’d be ok 😳
    I was a bit uncomfortable for about an hour and then all was good with the world and my tummy 😀
    I really enjoyed today’s walk once I’d settled into it.. the terrain was varied underfoot, plenty of ups and downs and some great scenery..
    i meet/pass so many people on a regular basis now, that they all speak to / shout out to me as I pass .. I’ve stopped being uncomfortable and embarrassed about it and now join in / thank / and laugh with them about it..
    I passed Alejandre today.. the guy doing it barefoot! WHAT A GUY!!!!
    I arrived in Astorga at a suitably ok time to have a beer… but, stomach in mind I trotted off to the pharmacy, a few charades moves later and I’m equipped to deal with any emergency 👍🏼
    Because I felt so awful I bypassed breakfast.. meaning I was starving.. a fantastic paella and pint later and.. yep!! I need a Nana nap!!

    I’m staying in a fabulous place tonight, best of all is a comfy bed.. the dinner this evening was seriously good too.
    Quietly sat on my own for dinner and in comes Henry ( originally from Dorset.. Australia and now Spain ) asking if he can join me…..
    Anyway, a seriously interesting guy, he’s done the Camino a dozen times at various times of the year and he was really good company.. helped me with the menu.. and drank half my wine !!!
    Another day in the bag… two weeks from now and I’ll be home!!
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  • Dia 26

    Day 26

    18 de setembro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This morning’s walk started off freezing cold, for the first hour I seriously thought I should have put tights on.. I’d even have worn hat and gloves if I’d had them to hand!!
    Soon afterwards it started to warm up, and actually became really quite hot.
    It’s fair to say I absolutely loved it today, the route headed up into the mountains and it was constant climbing the whole time.. actually finished at 1440 meters ( 4725 foot ) the scenery was amazing, the sky was blue ( my stomach had stopped hurting ) and I was going uphill.. yes!!!!
    I passed so many people today, Henry, who I said goodbye to, as he’s heading back home on the train tomorrow.. Bianca, who gave me a pilgrims card .. apparently the card you choose is the one that speaks to you and that’s why you pick that particular one.. mine was “ choose wisely “ I’ll put a picture on..
    Chloe and Ben, who were sat halfway up a climb and offered me a biscuit as I passed … the two Italian guy’s who say “ beep beep “ every time they see me ( even in a restaurant!! ) after christening me the roadrunner in the first week. I even had another Spanish guy on a mountain bike shout “ Isle of Man, Isle of Man “ give me a thumbs up and a high five!!
    A couple of my regulars got a taxi today as they’d been struggling and decided today’s wasn’t a good idea for them.
    I do admit to being a bit distracted at times, msging Steve to see how Hannah was doing in the E2E… Wowsa.. what an absolute star ⭐️ I’m so proud of you 🥰
    I’d been led to believe that this wasn’t a great place to stay and looked more like a village that had been bombed and abandoned… to be fair it kind of does, but it’s now been rebuilt amongst the original buildings and I’ve really enjoyed my stay here… helped by the lady offering to do my laundry!! I could have hugged her!!
    I will never again take for granted, or think using a washing machine is a chore…..
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  • Dia 27

    Day 27

    19 de setembro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Today is the first day I’ve started with my warm coat on!!
    It was an absolutely gorgeous morning with an equally gorgeous sunrise.. I apologise for a possible overload of sunrise sky pictures..
    It was a surprisingly fabulous ( those of you who know, know how much I hate and am rubbish going downhill ) walk today, even if over 3 1/2 hours of it was over pretty tricky steep downhill!!
    It was just fabulous first thing on the final 3km climb to the top, and if there was a moment of feeling at one with everything, it was then.. an unexpected, but amazing moment.. enough said!!!
    Yes!!! The downhill was steep in places, very stony and tricky in places, but . I loved it,. and my knees were fine..also probably the first time ever I’ve been going downhill for hour’s overtaking people rather than being overtaken 😂
    I did meet one poor guy on a mountain bike.. well, on the ground, twice!! I think he had more trouble with the descent than me😳
    I’m still trying to get used to everything and everywhere being closed from 14.30 - 17.30 on the days I don’t need a Nana nap!!
    My accommodation was easily found and is fab.. possibly time to go for a beer now before dinner..
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  • Dia 28

    Day 28

    20 de setembro de 2022, Espanha ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Messed up getting out of town this morning, so another couple of km’s added on 😂.. I’ve decided ( so has Steve 😬 ) I’m seriously rubbish at reading a map!! The Camino ninja app Norbert told me about is definitely a must for other rubbish map readers out there.
    For some strange reason, I was expecting today’s section to be flat.. it wasn’t at all .. no out and out climbs or descents, but really up and down through lots of villages and unbelievable scenery that just doesn’t come across on a photo as it’s so vast !!
    I had also assumed after last week that the weather had definitely turned autumnal… wrong!!! Absolutely boiling today ( it was still 28 degrees at 8pm ) not a cloud in the sky and not a breath of wind !!
    Note… today I saw my first Croc wearer!!! Why!!!that’s all!!!
    Villafranca del Bierzo is absolutely beautiful and well worth staying a night in… another fab meal and obviously.. red wine 😬!!! It tastes so much better in Spain.. I’m going to be the only person who goes home from a mammoth walking holiday fatter than when they started 😳
    I caught up with Yvonne and Hazel today, they’ve booked the donkey ride for O Cebreiro, so I hope I catch up with them again before we’re done to hear all about it.
    Although it seems in some ways like I’ve been away for such a long time, I can’t believe that I’m down to my final 10 days!! I was pretty confident I’d be ok with the walking, but have to admit I had massive fears and doubts about dealing with everything else on my own… I’ll be super proud of myself for doing so next week…
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