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Doteyboaty
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  • Margaret Meade
  • Ronan O'Driscoll
  • Ruby O'Driscoll

Doteyboaty

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  • Doteyboaty
    Our last views of Ria FormosaIt's hot out hereA View of Regal from the FerryThe clouds that arrive with the Levant

    Back to Spain

    21 de septiembre de 2021, España ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We say farewell to our friends from Yacht Luna. They are taking part in the Atlantic rally for Cruisers so unfortunately our paths will no longer be crisscrossing. We move to an anchorage near the entrance of the lagoon. We have a long trip ahead of us so we have to wake early the next morning to leave at first light so we arrive to Rota before dark.
    Ronan and I have happy memories of a holiday we had in Rota on Donal and Margaret’s boat when I was pregnant with Ruby. It is a quiet beach town across the bay from Cadiz.
    We leave lovely Culatra at dawn and with a swirl of tide we are spat out of the Lagoon at 9.5 knots.
    We have wind and with two reefs in the main we turn off the engine and have a glorious but unfortunately short- lived sail. The engine is turned back on as the wind moves around to our bow. When we are an hour away from Rota the clouds change and the wind strengthens to 25 knots- It’s the Levant wind blowing up from Gibraltar.
    We spend several days in Rota and get to grips with the new reality of home schooling. We would all much prefer to be at the beach. We get there in the afternoons and have great watching helicopters go back and forth from the nearby Spain and American Naval bases.
    Ruby and Colm discover their new favourite chain store; Ale-Hop -it’s even better than flying tiger.
    We are delighted to meet Steve and Helen from Yacht Allegrini and discover they plan on wintering in Cartagena like us. They have the same boat as Mags and Liam Drennan and we find out they already know each other! It’s a small world.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    Clams for lunchRuby swims homeRuby mans the dingy as Ronan helps on board the drifting yacht

    A quiet place

    18 de septiembre de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We have stocked up on fresh food from the local shop so we can move anchorage to an uninhabited part of Culatra. This is a much quieter spot. There are less boats at anchor here and far fewer fishing boats whizzing by, although we do still get the occasional wash from speedboats. We are at anchor in what seems like a vast horseshoe bay of sand. The continuous stretch of sandy beach is a mirage because there is a channel out to the sea in one spot. We can’t see it because there is so much sand and beach they meld together. We can feel the channel when we jump off the boat to cool down. If we don’t swim we drift quickly. We adapt to this and always start our swims against the tide.
    Ashore there is only beach and dunes. At low tide people are dropped by boat to the beach or in shallow areas around the lagoon to harvest clams.

    Within the anchorage there are two house boats. One of them is called Casa de Ria we find for rent on bookings.com. The other is homemade; a Portacabin painted bright red, sitting on top of the hull of a boat. It is at anchor close to beach where it dries out at low tide. We walk right by it and it has a dotey gypsy vibe.

    We have stayed in touch with Yacht Luna since we met in northern Spain and we have tagged-teamed down the coast of Portugal. They come to anchor here and we have several meet ups at the beach. One evening Ruby and Colm help Luna harvest clams and we bring some home to cook - delicious.

    One windy afternoon we see a boat drag its anchor. When we realise there is nobody on board, Ronan and Ruby zoomed over on the dingy and joined another helpful neighbour. They manage to prevent her from doing damage to another boat before the crew return by dingy in a panic.

    We see a very unusual looking jellyfish the size of a bucket with black tentacles. We google him and it turns out he is unusual - Rhizostoma Luteum. He is the only jellyfish we have seen in a long time.
    When we swim off the boat we wear our googles and look at all the different fish who like to loiter under our hull. Ruby and Colm make several Crab hotels/ prisons with Luna’s crew on the beach and get to see sea cucumbers too.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    island blissA supply boat to the island - a tractor unloads the cargoDonal and Margaret take the Ferry

    Ilha da Culatra

    17 de septiembre de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The six on board have a full day ashore on the island. We dingy into the village and walk along the concrete slab path to take in the sights. It’s 11am and it is already hot. We walk out of the village passing the school and the play-school which has a plastic-fantastic kids motorbike parked outside - a nice ride for some lucky 3 year old.
    The path leads us onto a raised wooden boardwalk up over the sand and sand-loving plants. This is a nature reserve and the boardwalk protects the plants and animals from us clumsy tourists. The boardwalk leads us all the way to the sea side of island. There is a huge beach to walk on, waves to play in and sun-loungers, parasols and a beach bar, what more could we want. Other tourists arrive later. They come on the ferry from Olhao and Faro as there aren’t really any beaches on that part of the mainland because of the lagoon.
    We finish up our day on the island in the local, having G and Ts and Ice teas. Afterwards Margaret and Donal finally get a home-cooked meal on board Regal - smoked salmon pasta. Donal sings ‘These are my mountains’ on Ruby’s request.
    It is an early start for Margaret and Donal the next morning. Ronan drops them by dingy to the island to catch the 7.45 Ferry to Olhao, in time to catch a taxi to Faro for the 10am Bus to Seville.
    We had such a great time with them and were sad to say Goodbye.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty

    A fine day of clouds

    16 de septiembre de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We had an ever changing sky on the day we came to Culatra. As we dropped anchor there was thunder and fork lightening on a distant hill on the mainland. It never came our way but the sky was heavily influenced by it with a mix of heavy cloud and sunshine. I couldn’t stop taking photos, here are just a few 😁Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    1
    An early start as we leave Lagos behind.

    Six go to Sea

    15 de septiembre de 2021, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    What better way to recover from a party than to wake at dawn and head out into a foggy rolly sea.
    We are on our way to Ilha da Culatra in the Ria Formosa Lagoon which protects Faro from the open sea. It is a place we have often heard about since Margaret and Donal spoke so highly of it when they were sailing in this area a few years ago. It is a sand island with beach all the way around from the sea side to inside on the Lagoon side and sand and scrub in between. There are a few fishing villages there with a shops and restaurants but no cars - only tractors and quad bikes to get through the sand roads. We are very excited to see it as it is hard to imagine it. It is great that Margaret and Donal are with us to share in this excitement… although I think Margaret is feeling the pressure of her high recommendation.
    There is no sailing breeze so we motor and Donal tests Ruby and Colm on their seamanship.
    We are a good bit off but can see Alvor, Albufeira and Vilamoura as we make our way East .We have been to these places and share our memories - All Ruby and Colm remember of a family holiday we had here a few years ago is the breakfast buffet.
    The entrance to Ria Formosa is boiling with tide, I take a video of it to try and capture the experience which feels a little like white water rafting. Once we are inside the breakwater things are calm and we take in our first views of the Island. Margaret needn’t have worried - we can already appreciate why she likes it so much. The sky is so big here, the buildings are low and the landscape looks barren- it reminds me of an old western.
    Later when we stroll around the village I am surprised to see so many fruit trees - Lemons, grapes, pomegranates.
    We run into the same difficulty here as elsewhere, trying to get dinner before 7.30. We end up having take away pizza on bench over-looking the Ria as the sun is going down and it is perfect.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    2

    A 70th birthday bash

    14 de septiembre de 2021, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    We will be missing Margaret’s big Birthday celebrations in October so we do a surprise mini Birthday while she is here.
    Margaret always volunteers to help out with the shopping so I wasn’t able to buy a birthday cake without her seeing - she didn’t bat an eyelid when I put a huge cake in the trolley… Maybe it was because it said happy birthday in Portuguese not English.
    Today it was supposed to rain all day but Margaret’s optimism and sunny disposition shone through, and it was nice enough in the afternoon to go to the beach. Margaret and Donal headed there first and we hung back and decorated the boat. She got a great surprise when we got back from the beach, the cake hadn’t given away our plan at all - she just assumed I had bought it because I love cake.
    We had champagne and presents in the sunshine in the cockpit. The most precious gifts were the ones Ruby and Colm had bought themselves and the cards they had made. They had hit the tourist shops of Lagos before Margaret ever landed in Portugal. Ruby found her a traditional ceramic dish and Colm gave her a bag with a Portuguese tile pattern printed on it. In each pocket he had put a little surprise - a patterned pen, notebook and a Portugal postcard.

    For a celebratory dinner we go to a traditional restaurant which Margaret had enjoyed several times on previous trips here. The food is cooked on an open charcoal grill and we eat cuttle fish, ribs and tuna. The views are nearly as good as the boatyard - we are looking across at the train station.
    The party rolls on to the funfair and Margaret instigates a ride on the King - this will definitely catapult her into her seventies. Ronan, Colm and I join her and we start off laughing which quickly turns into screaming and as the King does a 360 overhead and thunders back around to the ground there is silence and white knuckles. Once the King slows down, our voices find laughter again. Margaret O’Driscoll’s joie de vivre is incredible.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    Check out the boats in the yard outsideThe beach camp

    Nana and Grandad arrive

    13 de septiembre de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    It is such a pleasure to welcome Margaret and Donal to Regal in Lagos. Ruby and Colm bound down to meet them when they get dropped off at the Marina by taxi.

    Donal and Margaret have played such a big part in this trip. We have been inspired by their sailing adventures and they have been a huge support to us on ours. We are here thanks to them.
    We are so grateful for the countless hours of work Donal has spent on Regal over the last two years. We figure that he must be missing it by now so we treat him to a full day on her tweaking and improving things. We really spoil him by bringing him to a restaurant that’s next to the chandlery and right in the middle of the boatyard- the view wouldn’t be to everyone’s taste but the food is superb.
    We have a day at the beach where we set up camp and on the other two days in Lagos we get there for a swim and a jump in the waves. There are several trips to Pingo Doce Supermarket - primarily because you can get a coffee and a fresh Pastel da Nata there for €1… everyone was volunteering to do shopping.
    We crossed the footbridge several times to go into the main town of Lagos. It is a different experience there as Margaret observed, like another town. The Marina area has all you need and you go over the bridge to experience the hustle and bustle of the thriving tourist town.
    On our last day in Lagos we leave the Marina to tie up outside on the visitors berth. Access under the footbridge to and from the Marina is only available between 9am and 8pm and we want an early start in the morning. It is such fun watching the bridge lift up while the pedestrians wait and watch on either side - our moment of celebrity, we smile and wave for people’s holiday snaps.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    Not a bad spot to spend a weekThe kids and a random yachtCleaning2My attempt at an instagram pose

    A week in Lagos

    11 de septiembre de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Lagos Marina is a lovely place to be. The Pontoon we are on is very big and lots of boats come and go and more ARC boats arrive. Perhaps it is the transient nature of it that makes it so friendly. We meet lots of different people who all have interesting stories.
    As I am walking into town I hear a heavily accented voice calling ‘ Margaret’ - I figure it couldn’t be me as I don’t know anyone here. It turns out that I do, It is Yerc, a young Dutch boat hitchhiker I had a met a few days earlier before he left for Portimao. He had hitched a ride on a 38 foot a English boat which had all the crew it needed as far as we could see. There was the owners, their 9 year old daughter, 20 year old son and another man as well as their Collie. I find sharing this space with my immediate family a squash and a squeeze so I am full of admiration for people who share their boat with strangers.
    Yerc is back in town looking for a lift to the Canaries and from there he plans on hitching a ride to the Caribbean. He is one of 3 young boat hitchhikers we meet in Lagos all hoping to cross the Atlantic, The most ambitious of them is a young French man who is trying to travel around the world without money.
    All on board Regal are all happy to be in one place for a while and with have a mix of jobs and fun here.
    We finally source wheels for our Dingy at the super chandlery here and Ronan installs them - This will make bringing the dingy ashore a whole lot easier from now on.
    We do a two trolley shop in the Pingo Doce supermarket and make a terrible racket wheeling the trolleys on cobbled paths past the lovely cafes at the marina interrupting people’s coffees and serenity. Shopping excursions take so much longer than at home and is a much sweatier affair. There is navigational challenge of an unfamiliar supermarket - doing four laps to find honey then hauling all the shopping back to the boat followed by stowing it in on the boat - in cupboards, under seats and under the floorboards. Feeling frazzled after all this, the best solution for the crew is an afternoon at the Marina pool - We pay a pretty penny to get in and we make the most of the pool, the loungers and the table service.
    During the week we have trips to the beautiful beach nearby and walks in and around the town which is humming with tourists. People are here from all over and we by the end of the week I don’t even twitch when I hear an Irish accent, it is so prevalent.
    We finally pull the school books out of their box in the bilges and start to get our heads around boat-schooling. After 2 hours of maths the books are shelved as preparations begin for Nana and Grandad arrival.
    I continue to do regular Orca watch online and am very happy for our sake that they seem to be migrating north.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    The footbridge in Lagos
    Reported Orca attacks in August

    Orcas on my mind

    6 de septiembre de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We come into Lagos Marina as the wind and swell is on it’s way up. The anchorage off the beach isn’t as beautiful when its rolling.
    The entrance into Lagos is memorable because the footbridge between the town and the Marina has to be opened to allow the boat through. Ronan and I came under this bridge once before when we arrived in 14 years ago with Donal, Fergal, Neasa and Kevin from the Azores on Re Shuanta on the return Atlantic Rally. We are brimming with memories again and the kids indulge our reminiscing. There are ARC boats here now preparing to sail to the Canaries before they cross the Atlantic. We see the lovely camaraderie between these boats and their shared excitement of fulfilling the dream.
    Lagos is lovely and there are a number of factors that lead us to decide to stay here until Donal and Margaret (a.k.a Nana and Grandad) fly out to visit in a week’s time.
    The most unusual factor being the presence of Orcas in the bay. There is a small group of Orcas who in the last year or so have got a taste for ramming sailboats. It just so happens that they are in this area now. Two Yachts are towed into the boatyard after being attacked. They target sailboats rudders with the apparent intention of disabling the boat. It seems to be a game they play with yachts under 15m in length and so they would like the look of us. I have watched videos on YouTube of these encounters and it looks like a very unpleasant and frightening experience. The fright I got when I saw the Risso Dolphin’s off Figueira da Foz gave me a tiny insight into what crew must feel like when the Orcas come. There have been reports of an attack lasting two hours and one I read about where the Orcas appeared to try and push two yachts together. This does not make for good bedtime reading when you are sailing in these parts.

    We have been keeping an eye on updates on the internet. In July and August there were attacks nearly every day, all around the Gibraltar region and this is an area we must pass through in order to get into the Mediterranean. There were so many attacks in the area that the government put a no sail zone in place for a number of weeks. They had done the same in Galicia in September 2020 where the first reports of this new behaviour were in the news.

    Lots of boats are going in and out of the Marina here in Lagos. There are hundreds of sailboats on the water in these parts everyday so the likelihood of an encounter is very slim. All the same, we are very happy to enjoy the pleasures Lagos has to offer and see online or hear on the grapevine what the Orcas are up.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty

    Lagos Grottos

    5 de septiembre de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We set off from the boat and do our own DIY tour of the grottos, cliffs and sea pillars of Lagos. One person travels on the SUP while the other 3 travel in the Dingy. We have tried to leave early to avoid the crowds of tourists boats but these days our early is about 10am.
    There are plenty of tours already started but that turns out to be of benefit to us. We haven’t a clue where to go so we just follow the proper tours. One goes under an arch so then we go under. Some kayakers go into a cave so then we go into the cave. We have a great time and we each take a turn on the SUP as you can get in closer to the rocks and see more that way.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    On Danbouy watch in fog and pyjamas
    Sunrise a few miles north of Cape St VincenteSpot the Danbouy1Cape St VincentForrest Fire

    South to the Algrave

    3 de septiembre de 2021, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The Portuguese coast is littered with Danbouys.
    These fishing markers are made from tall, thin sticks on a float with a tiny flag on top and ropes below the surface.
    Should we go over one, it could foul the propeller and disable the boat so that we would need to be towed into port for repairs.
    In order to avoid this happening we have to avoid the Danbouy and they are very hard to spot. Often it is easier for whoever is on watch to stand up at the bow on look out. On seeing a Danbouy, they call back to the cockpit for the helmsman to alter course to port or starboard. Ruby and Colm are getting very good at this.
    We often use the autopilot when motor sailing so there is no helmsman. The person on watch just runs back from the bow, adjusts the autopilot to avoid the Danbouy and then returns to the bow- all done without interrupting anyone’s reading.

    We have only travelled by day so that we can see the Danbouys. If we want to travel by night we have to go about 15 miles off the coast where the water is too deep for Danbouys. We are heading to the Algarve and want to get there soon but only travelling by day makes progress southwards slow.
    We do some calculations and find that Nazare is the perfect place from which to start a 30 hour trip to Lagos. The weather is settled and there is practically no swell so you can’t better conditions than this if your priority making Lego on passage.

    We leave at sunrise and motor-sail about a mile or two off the coast, passing landmarks such as Peniche, Ericeria Cascais and the entrance to Lisbon. We watch out for and go around lots of Danbouys. As Portugal’s coastline bends Eastwards south of Cascais we can keep the same course South but naturally end up being 15 miles off the coast before nightfall.
    We are in nice deep water and no longer need to be up the bow on watch. We can focus the more enjoyable activity of star gazing -its an amazingly clear night with layer upon layer of stars.
    Ronan doesn’t feel tired and I am a little knocked out from antihistamines for mosquito bites. He does an 8 hour watch from after dinner until nearly 4am. I do from 4am until 9am. We both find the longer watch easier than 2 on 2 off, which is surprising.
    As the sun is rising we are coming into shallower water. I see the first Danbouy when we are still in depths of about 150 meters - we are back on look out again.
    We round Cape St Vincent and the bottom of Portugal and travel the beautiful Algarve coastline from Sagres. We anchor off the big beach in Lagos, jump in for a swim and then have french toast to celebrate our safe arrival.
    We see huge mushroom of smoke behind the town and it spreads over the land and is there all day - it is a Forrest fire that thankfully is put out within the day.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty

    Nazare

    2 de septiembre de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We motorsail south from Figueira da Foz and have a geography lesson as Regal is coming into Nazare.
    We examine the charts of the area and know that we will sail right over the underwater canyon that creates the perfect big wave that surfers from all over the world come here for.
    We are within a mile of the coast and our depth reader jumps for 20 meters depth to 60 meters to 95 to 150 meters to no reading as it is too deep. Within a few minutes it starts come back to normal depths again.
    There are no big waves today thankfully but it is amazing to see the cliffs and the lighthouse that feature in so many of the surfing videos and photos we have seen over the years. It is hard to imagine such huge waves being within sight of the town and marina. The big waves travel north and the canyon protects the town and marina to the south - this is geography at its best.
    We have a swim on the beach to cool off as the sun is going down and go for Pizza in the bustling tourist town.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    Thunder and Lighting - the lightening was too fast for me to capture itSea fog - there's a lot of it about

    Figueira da Foz

    1 de septiembre de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We wake early in Porto to the sound of Thunder. We didn’t see this on any of the 5 forecasts we checked when passage planning last night. We decide to delay our departure for an hour or so. We go out to the cockpit and watch a spectacular Thunder and lighten show. At times the sky looks like it will crack open like an egg with jagged bolts of lighting shooting across it.

    On the 10 hour trip to Figueira da Foz have a welcome visit from common Dolphins along with two babies who bow ride and entertain us for a while.
    I have an unwelcome visit from Risso Dolphins. Unfortunately the curious Risso’s look much too like Orca Whales from the distance. In light of the continuing Orca attacks on yachts on the coast of Spain and Portugal I am hyper alert. I am on watch while everyone else is below decks. On my Port bow I see 4 fins making their way slowly in the direction of the boat their blows bigger than a dolphin’s but smaller than any Whale I have seen. Their fins are tall and they are on a definite course towards the boat. I can only think of Orca’s and my heart is racing. I zoom down to get Ronan imagining the first bang is imminent. We get back up and see the flashes of the grey scared skin of the Risso’s as the come by for a look at us. I am rattled. Their curiosity and friendliness doesn’t get so much as a ‘hello’ from me. I feel bad for the Risso’s, they must be getting a poor reception in these parts recently.

    In Figueira da Foz, Ronan finds a pub in town to catch the Ireland v.s Portugal match. He gets up in time to enjoy 20 minutes of Ireland 1- 0 ahead before Ranaldo equalised at full time and put Portugal ahead during extra time. We have more fun back on board Regal as Ruby and Colm have their first taste of Monty Python watching an old favourite of mine ‘The Holy Grail’

    In the morning Ruby and Ronan get some fresh food from the Market and get another helping of old lady wrath. Ruby needs an extra bag for the Tuna they have bought , she sees some bags at a little fruit stall and takes one. The little old stall holder is not impressed and shouts at Ruby until the bag is returned - fair is fair.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    Wood effect paint on plaster

    Culture Vultures

    31 de agosto de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Ruby and I head back over the river to soak up more of Porto’s culture despite our sore feet from yesterday’s walking tour.
    Colm opts to stay at the Marina with Ronan who has a day of jobs in front him. There had been a beach date tentatively arranged with the crew of Luna and Colm didn’t want to miss out on that.
    We go to Livraria Lello which is a beautiful book shop but there is a queue to get in. It is a major tourist attraction because its staircase was an inspiration to J K Rowling for Harry Potter. We decide to come back later when the queue is gone. We climb the Clerigos tower to see the beautiful views of the city. We return to the bookshop and find the queue is slightly smaller so we join and an hour later we get in. The interiors are stunning especially the red staircase and for Ruby there are books so it was worth the wait.
    It is now very hot so the only solution is ice cream. We search google and find Gelatopia with a 4.9 rating - good enough for us. We end up chatting with the owner who gives us more ice-cream ; happy days
    Next is a tour of the Palacio da Bolsa which is a UNESCO world heritage site. The rooms are stunning and the tour brings it alive. We see the Arab room and are shown that everything is symmetrical except for a door that is off centre. This was done purposefully because only God can create perfection. We tour a huge room clad entirely in wood but are told that it is mostly plaster with clever paintwork.They used cod-fish tails to give it the wood effect.
    Meanwhile back at the Marina Douro in Gaia it is a morning of jobs for Colm and Ronan. They walk to the village for some shopping passing by the local washer women. There are large indoor communal washing stalls and outside there are tall thin sticks set out in a haphazard way, where the laundry is hung to dry. We are unsure whether the people come to wash their own clothes or are doing others laundry. A local woman carries a basin of laundry on her head, hands free.
    While Ronan and Colm are sitting outside the cafe in the village, that lady or one very like her gestures at their bag full of shopping on the ground. At first they sense she is concerned when she speaks to them in rapid-fire Portuguese. As they smile and say ‘no Portuguese, pardon’ they quickly realise she is not concerned but annoyed. Through her persistent heckling they understand they are to remove their bag from the ground and put it on the chair nearby - why? They will never know.
    They get to the beach in the afternoon and have fun with parents and kids from a few other travelling boats.
    A different day for the boys and girls today and when we regroup in the evening all four crew are happy.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty

    Porto

    30 de agosto de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We taxi to the cablecar, cablecar to the Luis 1 bridge and join the crowds to cross the upper part into Porto. There are tourists from all over the world here and it is easy to see why, Porto is beautiful.You can see the city by tuc-tuc, tram and segway but we stick with the feet and walk.
    We go up hills and down hills, in and out of churches, shops and train stations. We see portuguese tiles, historical buildings and stunning views and get some lovely views of tiled buildings.
    Ruby and Colm are thrilled when we suggest McDonald’s for dinner and there is an extra treat in store. This McDonald’s is often referred to as the most beautiful in the world because of Art Deco Architecture complete with stain glass windows and chandeliers.

    When we return to the marina, we visit Yacht Luna who we have met in several different ports. They have two girls aged 7 and 9 and Ruby and Colm enjoy hanging out with other children for a change.    Leer más

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    Passage to Portugal

    29 de agosto de 2021, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We have a fabulous 20 minute visit to our bow from Dolphins- they are a great diversion in the middle of the 11 hour passage from Bayona to Porto.
    We stow the Spanish courtesy flag along with the oilskins and raise the Portuguese flag - we are sailing south, chasing the sun.

    The entrance for Porto is beautiful. A long beach on either side as we enter the river through the breakwater . A palm tree line road with houses and apartments on our port and to starboard a nature reserve beach. In front of us and high up is an enormous bridge linking the hills on either side of the river and behind it, just coming into view, the start of the city. Here we turn to starboard into Douro marina.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    Pimentos de padron

    Other bits from Bayona

    27 de agosto de 2021, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We do our usual chores while in Bayona included Laundry and provisioning. We love all the fresh produce available in Spain, especially their pimentos de Padron. We buy all of the fruit and veg in the photo for €7.50.
    Régal is decked out beautifully for a day with our washed clothes and linen.
    I replace the accumulator tank and insist my photo be taken to mark my plumbing achievement. I didn’t know what an accumulator was four weeks ago but now know them intimately. It stopped working on passage from France to Spain which meant that anytime we turned a tap on the water pump ran constantly. It took a long time to figure all this out but as many a wise person has said - Google and Youtube are great!
    We visit a replica ship of the ‘Pinta’ - the first boat to return to Europe with news that Christopher Columbus has discovered America and it landed right here in Bayona.
    We meet a lovely Irish couple, Anne and Brendan who have kept their boat in Viana de Castillo in Portugal for over a decade. Another Irish crew we met is bringing their boat to the Canaries. We see several boats here flying their ARC flag who are on their way to the Canaries for the trip across the Atlantic.
    There are many different nationalities on the marina but in the town the tourists and visitors are Spanish. This is what we experienced throughout Galicia but Bayona definitely attracts the more glamorous type.
    On our final night we go to anchor in the bay and the sound of a nearby concert travels across the water to us. Fun at first but not so much went we are trying to get some sleep before our early start and long passage tomorrow.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty

    Bayona Beach

    27 de agosto de 2021, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We go swimming at the beach just below the castle at low tide in around the rocks. Luckily we all have are goggles because it the best place yet for underwater life. It’s hard to believe that there are more fish at this town beach than we saw in the lslas Cies nature reserve. There is one shoal of fish that are so relaxed in our midst that we have to swish our arms in front of us so we don’t swim headlong into them.
    After our close encounter with the fishies, we lie on our towels to dry off and find that we have the best perch on the beach to watch a mini - drama unfold . 4 boxum, bikini clad, leather skinned retirees return to their towels and are none to pleased to find that a couple has squeezed into the spot between them and us. They make their views known but the new arrivals hold firm.The main point of contention is a beach mat which while nobody is on it, the blow-ins refuse to move it. The four golden girls voices go up and octave, dirty looks and hands fly, all of this is ignored by her ladyship in her deckchair and her husband. Fury takes over and the biggest and boldest of the ladies jumps out of her deckchair while shouting and makes a grab at the beach mat. She trips over on the way, falls down and screams ‘aye, aye aye’. Now the whole beach is watching as she writhes in pain and her friends massage her leg and throw looks you wouldn’t see in a high school drama.The moustached husband loses nerve and starts to gather their stuff. As he attempts to pick up the offending beach mat, down comes the foot of his wife, ‘not on your nelly’ she mutters in Spanish - ‘go back to your rock’ and he duly does. ‘No dinner for him this evening’ Ronan says.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty

    Bayona Castle

    26 de agosto de 2021, España ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Bayona was the port we made landfall in 15 years ago when Ronan and I crossed the bay of Biscay for the first time with Donal. It’s so lovely to be back here. The town is bigger than we remember but I guess 15 years will do that to a place.
    The castle and its walls are the most prominent feature of the town and it features in all our days in Bayona. A highlight was a sunset picnic on the walls.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty

    The plan and the way it plays out

    25 de agosto de 2021, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The plan today is to get up early before it gets too hot and see the spectacular views from Monte Faro. After that we will all go to the beach for snorkelling and picnicking. The weather forecast says its a perfect day.
    We wake up to heavy fog but are undeterred, confident it will burn off. It does and in we row in and land on the beach - it pays to confident we say. We are no sooner down the length beach when the fog descends again. 3 of 4 remain optimist, I row back to Régal. My 3 mates have a great fun walking to the top of Monte Faro. At the top they study the poster of what can be seen on a clear day - It feels like Slea head or some other scenic spot in Ireland.
    They return to the boat for a rest before our excursion to the beach. The wind has increased as well as the roll and chop. The forecast says nothing about wind and so we delay going to the beach until things calm. An hour later the wind is stronger, gusting to 22knots and so rowing to the beach is not an option. The prospect of a good night sleep at anchor look unlikely so we up anchor and head for Bayona. The wind and chop is on the nose and we are in full oil skins. I see 32 knots at one stage on the wind reader and we certainly feel it.
    I say to the kids that it is likely people are sunbathing in Bayona, of course they don’t believe me. Sure enough when we turn the corner into the bay everything calms - there we are in our full wet gear looking at bikini clad holiday makers on the beach.
    We second guess ourselves that maybe things might have settled in Islas Cies but we are still glad we didn’t hang around to find out.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    Spot the 3 swimmers from Regal swimming into the beachRuby's first go with big fins - lovin' it

    Islas Cies

    24 de agosto de 2021, España ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    The Islas Cies are picture perfect; an enormous white sand beach, clear water and forested hills and yet I am disappointed! These Islands have been etched in my memory for 15 years with a heavy dose of rose-tinting since I was only married a bare week when I here last.
    What I am most excited about visiting, when we first land on the Island, is the Lagoon. I rush everyone off the beach (sweetly) and head toward the lagoon of my memory - where we had sat in shallows many years ago as clear fresh water bubbled underneath us. In its place, we find an insipid green tidal lagoon protected by a perimeter fence. I am indignant that I can’t exactly recreate my honeymoon memory and that I am no longer allowed to pollute the fragile ecosystem with my sun-creamed behind.
    After some coffee and cake I start to see the ridiculousness of my feelings and I take in the beauty of the islands anew - This is a spectacular place and we swim, sunbathe and snorkel realising just how lucky we are to be here.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty

    Cave

    23 de agosto de 2021, España ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We were due to go to Islas Cies today, but we like Aldan too much to leave just yet. We go by dingy and SUP to find a Sea cave that Maggie has told us about. We find it, tie up and then have to find some courage to go in - its dark and damp - We send the children in first.
    Having all emerged safely we arrange to go in convoy around to the nearest beach. Ronan and Ruby snorkel, Colm on the SUP and me in the Dingy. I arrive first and see that most people there are nude. I am relieved to find its not exclusively nude so at least we can leave our togs on while we have our picnic there. A man and his dog come down to the shore for a stroll, I only wish he would stop picking up the ball for their game of fetch 🙈
    Later back on Régal Colm takes the dingy out for his first solo spin.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    Our goodie bag from Maggie and Paul - Figs and Cakes

    Home visit

    22 de agosto de 2021, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We wake up to a heavy fog that has obscured most of our neighbours. We have been surprised by the dampness here in Galicia, there is dew most mornings despite very hot days. It is lovely to watch the fog burn off and see landscape and boats around us emerge.
    We are invited to Maggie and Paul’s house today so we set off from Régal, towards the 3rd beach over, using 3 modes of transport; swim, SUP and dingy.
    Maggie and Paul welcome us to their beautiful home which is just a short walk up from the beach. We are thrilled to be shown around and we ooh and aah at every turn - it’s idyllic. The grapevines are heavy with fruit, the view from the patio overlooks the gleaming bay and the bathroom sinks light up! We have a wonderful few hours chatting and eating gorgeous chocolate brownies and pear cake made from their own pears. The kids love the train set in the attic and fishpond but best of all was when they found the telly- Something from home that is dearly missed.
    We were all inspired by the wonderful life that Maggie and Paul have made here in Galicia as well as by their openness and generosity it was a lovely visit.    Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty
    View of Islas Cies

    Following Recommendations

    21 de agosto de 2021, España ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We land the dingy on the slip in Aldan and follow Liam’s recommendation to head straight to the Iglesias Bakery. We have a fantastic carb-tastic breakfast. We call a taxi and are off into the hills to find Monte do Facho following Maggie and Paul’s recommendation. We get dropped off where the road ends at a beautiful viewing point and follow the path through wooded hills . Along the way we explore ancient carvings and old settlements including ones that are nearly 3000 years old. When we reach the top and emerge from the woods there is an old Roman watchtower and panoramic views. We can see the Islas Cies which is exciting as that is to be our next stop. We descend again on the ancient road, passing old stone walls and oak trees, it feels like the setting of Lord of the rings. The final recommendation for the day is from Maggie and Paul and we are delighted, as it brings us to Caracole Restaurant just at the end of the Monte do Facho walk for delicious tapas.Leer más

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  • Doteyboaty

    Ria Aldan

    19 de agosto de 2021, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We travel to the Ria of Aldan on Mag and Liam’s recommendation, it’s one of their favourite places in Galicia. Liam has kindly sent Ronan some handy tips such as a good spot to anchor and more importantly the location of the best bakery in town.
    When we anchor we become neighbours to yachts Luna (English) and Oystercatcher (Irish) both of whom we had met previously in Cambarro. We get to know another neighbour while we are here, Yacht Saoirse from Cork. A number of other Irish yachts come and go during our 5 night stay here. Some have travelled from Ireland this year but many of the boats are kept here long term, the owners flying out when they can to enjoy the Rias- its seems like a good idea to us.
    There are more Irish boats than British in these parts and we assume it is due to the complications of Brexit. There are new rules for British sailors to navigate including time limits on the length of stay in Europe for people and boats.
    It is a joy to be at anchor again, it’s more peaceful and we are closer to nature with easy access to the water. We remark on how funny it is that when we arrived at Cambarro Marina we were delighted with ease that brings and yet now we are so happy to be at anchor. There is pleasure in both and luckily here in the Rias when anchoring losing it’s charm - usually because of a few windy or rolly nights- there are plenty of Marinas to divert to.
    Aldan is beautiful - the bay is narrow and safe and dotted with sandy beaches. We have settled warm weather so we can make the most of it.
    Ronan, Ruby and Colm go for a big explore on land and end up back at our nearest beach. A persistent little Spanish boy finally entices Colm to play with him and his pal. Though they can’t speak each other’s languages they end up having great fun playing football, volleyball and building sandcastles.
    Meanwhile back on Régal I am chatting to my sister, Jane on the phone when a knock comes on the hull of the boat. It is Maggie, who I had met in Muros. She and her partner Paul live in Aldan and had seen on the AIS that we had anchored in their home town. They launched their canoes and paddled over to welcome us - it’s a lovely surprise.    Leer más

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