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August - September 2017
A 36-day adventure by Tim In Japan Read more
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  • TravelerJapan 1
    112
    Day 23

    Sapporo

    September 14, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Owing to some dodgy planning on my behalf and a relative scarcity of available hotel rooms, I only have 1 day in Sapporo. I immediately realize my mistake as Sapporo is a happening place. It is also the easiest city to navigate as it uses a grid system. Very useful to someone like me with limited directional abilities (or none?)

    As it is autumn, Sapporo is in the middle of its autumn festival. This involves substantial food and drink in Odori Park, which stretches for many blocks. I have a guide map that tells me what is offered in each block of the park. But I've jumped ahead ...

    Firstly I stop for a coffee at Starbucks (what, again?! You should buy shares in the company blah blah blah I'm not listening). Quick quiz: how many Starbucks are there in the 2km between the train station and my hotel? Answer: 5 (seriously). I then pick up stacks of tourist info (in English!) from the tourist info place at the station.

    Given my limited time, I choose to range around the inner city. Firstly I walk to the TV Tower (1st photo) and visit the observatory at the top. Panoramic views over much of Hokkaido, the 2nd photo is just a sample.

    I then walk through Odori Park, taking in the atmosphere as many people have gathered to eat and drink. I deviate from the park to wander through the Botanical Gardens. In the greenhouse I spy a familiar palm tree and suppress my natural instinct to cut it down (impractical as I only have a Swiss Army knife).

    Finally it's time to eat and I choose a combo platter of lamb chop and 3 prawns. I make a decent fist of the chop with chopsticks, not so much the prawns. Continuing the seafood theme, I buy a plate of grilled oysters (5th photo) and find they're not too bad.

    I was meant to rent a car at 10am but it's closer to 2:30 by the time I reach Toyota car rental (which coincidentally adjoins the hotel where I stayed). Problems setting up the Bluetooth pairing, but that will have to wait. Time to hit the open road again!    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    21
    Day 24

    South West Hokkaido Day 1

    September 15, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    My accommodation from September 14 to 18 is the Kiroro Tribute Portfolio Hotel (1st photo) where I stayed in room #5701 (2nd photo). This place is a resort that is heavily geared towards winter, what with the Kiroro ski fields up the road. It is also in the middle of nowhere so dining options are somewhat limited.

    First day there I drive down the east coast to Otamanbe, where I post a postcard to my Dad. The ladies running the post office are baffled by my appearance there. I leave them with the conundrum of how to place the stamps on the postcard without obscuring my text. I love messing with their heads! At the beach the country's love of plastic manifests itself in debris brought in by the tide.

    I drive further down the coast to Yakumo, visiting the Panoramic Park there, before heading back to the hotel. I decide to use the new car's GPS to set the route. All's well until the car instructs me to turn left off route 5 onto route 9. OK, I'll bite even though the route is 90 degrees to where I want to go. We then turn onto route 229 and continue on. After a while I notice a wind farm in the distance. What I don't see is any scenery to the west of me. It couldn't be ... but a couple of minutes later my worst fears are realized as I see the sea. So I've driven from the south east coast to the west coast! Which basically has circled around where I'm staying.

    The story has a happy ending as my car GPS does (eventually) navigate back to the hotel rather than just aimlessly taking me around the countryside until the car runs out of petrol and I die. To be fair, the west coast scenery is more majestic and there are many tunnels through the mountains. The last 3 photos show some of that scenery.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    112
    Day 25

    Kiroro Gondola and Otaru

    September 16, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    It's the weekend and you all know what THAT means ... yep, Japan's weekend warriors hit (ie. clog up) the road with a vengeance.

    With this in mind, I decide to minimize my travel by heading up the road to the Kiroro winter sports park. 1500 yen (17 AUD) buys me a round trip ticket on the Kiroro Gondola. It's quite a nice day and the views from the gondola are excellent, as the first 3 photos show. There aren't too many people around. I start a hike to Mt Yoichi but have to turn back because I HAVE BROUGHT THE WRONG FOOTWEAR. The trail is quite muddy and my hiking boots are in the frigging car 😣. Never mind, I think to myself, I'll do it tomorrow ... but of course the gondola is closed the next day due to excessive wind (insert coeliac joke here).

    So I decide to drive to Otaru which is due north on the coast. There is a panoramic view of the town coming down from the highlands - see photos. Being a Saturday it is really difficult to find parking, I'm in a queue for around 10 minutes. Walk to the canal which passes for a tourist attraction here.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    Day 26

    Pop Buffet Restaurant

    September 17, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    On checkin to the Kiroro Tribute Hotel, I was asked if I would support a "save the planet" initiative by not having towels changed, bed linen changed etc for the duration of my stay. For this I was given 1000 yen (11-12 AUD) discount vouchers for dinner at the resort's restaurants. Sounded like a sweet deal so I was in 😚

    Which is actually restaurant singular as it is out of season. As my accommodation included breakfast, I had 4 breakfasts and 2 dinners at the Pop Buffet.

    I love a good buffet and Pop's breakfast buffet comprised both Japanese and Western elements. Day 1, I tried some of both but by Day 4 I had settled on boiled eggs, scrambled egg, ham, bacon and tomato followed by a banana and a bowl of fruit compote covered with yoghurt. And coffee, glorious coffee with multiple refills. Fill yer boots, son!

    Dinners had a set charge of 4000 yen (46 AUD) although my vouchers saved me 1/4. First dinner I ordered a glass of plum wine, which comes in a spirits glass with ice. Its taste was reminiscent of cough medicine I've tried in the past ... not necessarily a bad thing. 2nd dinner I ordered a bottle of saki. As it is a clear spirit it left no hangover. I quite enjoyed it.

    The dinner buffet took pride in offering Hokkaido specialities. I found the wasabi octopus quite challenging but made it through by channelling the Mt Fuji spirit. I enjoyed the "Genghis Khan" mutton, which is grilled, but my favourite was the Soup Curry. Basically you put vegetables such as broccoli, potato, carrot etc and meat or seafood into a bowl. You then ladle in the soup curry and add extra spices to taste. And you can add rice as you go! Super filling.

    Lots of nice pastries and cakes for dessert, all with gluten but I found the buffet was enough anyway. Wouldn't do it every night but well worth the money.

    NO PHOTOS.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    32
    Day 27

    Typhoon Talim

    September 18, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The weather starts to deteriorate on Sep 17, so I restrict myself to short local hikes around the hotel. On the web I find that typhoon Talim has hit the southern parts of Japan with a lot of rain, and even Hokkaido can expect much rain on the 18th. Oh joy!

    I am staying in Asahikawa on the 18th and I'd hoped to pass through the towns of Furano and Biei on the way there. Unfortunately the weather is bleak most of the day so those plans are scuppered. I am wearing board shorts and thongs for the drive, which with my rain jacket makes me sort of weather proof.

    The wind really picks up in the central plain of Hokkaido between Takikawa and Asahikawa. Probably influenced by the mountains to the east.

    Asahikawa has a population of around 350,000 people, making it the 2nd largest city in Hokkaido after Sapporo. I'm staying at the JR Inn, which is right next to the train station. In fact, the hotel is part of the Aeon Mall complex, which comprises speciality stores (including a supermarket) and food court on the first floor, restaurants on 4F and the hotel on 5F. Note that in Japan there is no ground floor, so you normally walk in to 1F.

    All this is very handy as I can buy food without venturing outside. However, after driving all day I need some exercise so I run the weather gauntlet by walking in a local park. The city looks well set up as far as parks and tourism are concerned. It's surprising that the city is considered to be a gateway to other attractions rather than an attraction in its own right (like Brisbane I suppose).

    For dinner I select Lavi Soup Curry on level 4F (see 2nd photo). I have a braised pork soup curry with rice and drink a mango lassi. It is probably the most filling meal I've enjoyed in Japan. For less than 25 AUD.

    I also stock up on supplies at the supermarket, including a bottle of Furano wine (reasonably local to the area). Nothing better than donning hotel pyjamas and sipping on a cheeky red (3rd and 4th photos, taken BEFORE drinking).    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    4
    Day 28

    Sounkyo Canyon

    September 19, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Daisetsuzan National Park is Japan's largest national park. There are 2 main portals to the park. Today I'm going to the northern entry, which is via Sounkyo canyon.

    The weather is still on the iffy side in the hour and a quarter it takes to reach Sounkyo Onsen town. I had hoped to take the Kurodake ropeway and do a small hike. Think again, the ropeway's closed due to inclement weather. The poor lady at the local Tourist Information is run off her feet trying to help multiple tourists. I don't wait to talk to her but instead walk through the town. It's dead, once again not being in season. The town's setting in the canyon is quite scenic (first two photos).

    I decide to drive further into the park. Route 273 (Kamikawa National Highway) splits from route 39 (Taisetsu National Highway) just before Taisetsu Dam (3rd photo) and continues around Taisetsu Lake (4th and 5th photos taken on the way).

    Once I turn around, the weather takes a turn for the worst past Sounkyo canyon and I drive once again in (at times heavy) rain. So outdoor activities are off the agenda back in Asahikawa. I have a quiet night and enjoy a pepper steak in the food court (last photo).    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    Day 29

    Mt Asahidake

    September 20, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    It's good to have ambitions, right? Well my ambition for the day is to drive for just over an hour back into the Daisetsuzan National Park, take the Asahidake ropeway to 1600 metres, hike up to the summit of Mt Asahidake in around 4 hours, ropeway down then drive for 5-6 hours to Wakkanai in the north west of Hokkaido.

    If it all pans out it will be a L-O-N-G day. I've been checking the Asahidake summit weather for 3 days and it's been consistently predicted to be clear for this morning. So I'm up at 5:30 and in the car by 7. I reach the Asahidake ropeway a bit after 8, manage to score FREE PARKING (I thought that was a myth in Japan) and buy a ticket for the ropeway.

    As soon as we all cram into the ropeway carriage (me and the tiny retirees of Japan) and it starts upwards, it's obvious we have a real problem (the photos are obvious spoilers). What weather forecasts can't predict is FOG, and there's a lot of it around.

    At Sugitami Station (the ropeway end point) we are at 1600 metres. All photos were taken here or a little higher. There is an observation deck and a short trail of around 1km. I walk towards the summit trail and start upwards. I see a couple of men who must be at least 70 walking some distance behind me. Although the trail isn't that difficult (and for once I'm wearing the hiking boots) there is no view, just a foggy void.

    As a solo hiker, I'm concerned about not being able to see the trail on the way back. So I make the decision after 30 minutes or so to head back down. The 2 men behind me continue upwards. I pass some hiking groups with the same intention (photo of 1 group). Why are they doing this. The conditions aren't particularly pleasant AND THERE'S NOTHING TO SEE.

    I take some photos around the ropeway trails, occasionally the wind clears some fog and opens up some of the landscape. A photo of a couple of steam vents is below but the video I've taken captures their hissing.

    So I'm back down the ropeway around 10:30 and start my drive north. Not particularly eventful, but closer to Wakkanai I get to drive on a FREEWAY (that's right, free parking and a freeway on the same day 😲). My car GPS has a little glitch for a while, leading me off the freeway onto a parallel service road. I employ executive override and we're back on track.

    It's after 5 by the time I reach Hotel Saharin, my home for 3 days. Long day even without the summit hike.    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    1
    1
    Day 30

    Cape Soya

    September 21, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Wakkanai is a border town for Japan with Russia. Consequently the road signs contain Russian interpretations, which I haven't seen before.

    The 2 countries have been in territorial disputes over the islands between Russia and Hokkaido since the 1800s. The end of the 2nd world war allowed the Russian army to retake Sakhalen island, which remains in Russian hands.

    I drove around 40 minutes along the northern Hokkaido coast to reach Cape Soya, the northernmost point in Japan. The weather was excellent, affording great photo ops. A kind lady who was in charge of a tourist group took my photo for me at the monument.

    I walked up a road and stairs to a park that overlooked the cape. The Japanese built a watchtower here due to the tensions with Russia. I was there at midday and there was what appeared to be a service marking the downing of a Korean Air flight by the Russians in 1983 because it strayed into their air space near Sakhalen island. Lest we forget ...    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    4
    Day 30

    The White Road

    September 21, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Soya Park is around 14 km WSW from Cape Soya. There's nobody else in the park when I arrive so I'm able to eat my lunch in peace and quiet.

    The real reason I'm here is that there is a 2.3 km thoroughfare known as the "White Road" that winds through some countryside and has excellent views. I don't have a lot of information as to where it is, but in an unprecedented event I actually find it 🤤

    Conditions are perfect today as I traverse ... one guy taking photos of his motorbike is the only vehicle I see for ages. There are quite a few wind turbines in the area but the wind is not blowing today.

    Because conditions are so good, I continue on at the end of the White Road. Eventually nature calls, which of course coincides with the arrival of the first car I've seen in over an hour. Sod's law, I suppose. Move on, nothing to see here ...

    The total walk I do is around 8.6 km. On the way back I spy a couple of deer in the distance. As I'm upwind of them they see me rather than smell me. They snort a couple of times, run a short distance, look back, snort again and run off. I take some photos but for reasons made clear in upcoming posts they're not attached here.

    The sunlight shining off the sea is extremely picturesque, especially with Mt Rishiri in the background (an active volcano on Rishiri Island). I drive back to Wakkanai, but there's more to come ...    Read more

  • TravelerJapan 1
    1
    Day 30

    Wakkanai Park

    September 21, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    So I've driven back to the Hotel Saharin at Wakkanai. After a breather, there's still some time left in the day. Wakkanai Park is close(ish) by, so around 5 I walk on in.

    I hadn't realized that the park is on a hillside so it's a bit of a climb to reach different stages of the park. The entrance of the park is fronted by the Hokumon Shrine (a Shinto shrine) and shortly after that I walk past a small group of deer grazing on park vegetation. There is a fence between them and me, but a largeish stag is close to the fence. Easy, big fella, I don't want any trouble 🤐

    Some of the views over Wakkanai are magic. There's also sadness in some of the monuments over the loss of Japanese lives during the Russian WWII annexation of Sakhalen Island.

    I'm in a sober state of mind heading down from the park. I pass another grazing deer, it can't be more than 3 metres away. It's been one of the best days I've had in Japan as far as photos go, also one of the most affecting days. Vale ...    Read more

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