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France 2022
  • Yvonne Jones
октября 2022

France 2022

France is calling my name again! I’m traveling with my friend, Elizabeth, and we have quite an adventure planned. We left today and will arrive in Paris early tomorrow morning. Читать далее
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  • Начало поездки
    1 октября 2022 г.
    Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Elizabeth and I
    Cathédrale Nôtre DameGros Horloge (big clock)Brasserie Paul

    Rouen

    2 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    After landing in Paris, we took a train and traveled northwest to the Normandy city of Rouen, a 2000 year old city and the 5th largest French port on the Seine. To get a quick overview of the “old town” we hopped on the tour train to get our bearings for tomorrow’s full day of exploring the old part of Rouen. It’s a place of medieval, narrow cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses, old churches and the magnificent Cathédrale Nôtre Dame. We enjoyed our first French meal at Brasserie Paul where I had my croque monsieur and steak frites with a glass of Normandy hard cider. It was so good that we ended up back there for dinner which was finished off with au mousse chocolat Cluizel à la Normande! Today’s photos are just quick snapshots of the area. The Gros Horloge dates to 1528 and originally had only an hour hand which was considered “close enough”!Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    1Cathédrale Nôtre Dame1Cathédrale Nôtre DameSaint-Maclou ChurchTemple St Eloi (1228AD)Saint Jean d'Arc ChurchJean d'Arc Tower (not my photo)Place de Vieux Marché site (not my photo)La Couronne: Julia Child's first French meal was here!Inside La CouronneYvonne's Patisserie

    Rouen

    3 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Today we stopped at a patisserie and had the best croissant that I’ve had since I was here in 2019! It’s on my radar for tomorrow, too! We decided to do a self guided audio tour with a more comprehensive deep dive of the highlights in old Rouen. We covered about 6 miles! There were so many half-timbered houses throughout the old town. I guess there are about 2,000 with some of them dating back to the early 1400’s!

    Besides the spectacular Cathédrale Nôtre Dame there are others that dated as far back as the 1200’s. I couldn’t keep track of all of them. Victor Hugo called Rouen the city of 100 bells because of the number of churches. Monet loved this cathedral so much that he painted 30 different paintings of the intricately decorated Gothic facade at different times of the day to capture “impressions”. The facade looks like very delicate lace…beauty beyond words. We saw one of his paintings at the Musée des Beaux Arts. In the Cathédrale Nôtre Dame was the tomb of Richard the Lionhearted whose tomb contains only his heart because he wanted to show his love of Rouen!

    The square Place du Vieux Marché has a cross that marks the spot where Rouen publicly punished and executed people. Joan of Arc was convicted of heresy in Rouen and burned at the stake by the English in this square. Heavenly voices from saints had told Joan of Arc to rally the French and save it from the English. She was canonized in 1920 and is the patron saint of France.

    So much history and so many stories…my head is spinning tonight. Or is it from the wine that Elizabeth is making me drink! We stayed in tonight and had an Elizabeth-created charcuterie dinner since we had a late lunch at the boulangerie/patisserie named “Yvonne” which included the best cream puffs I’ve ever had! I also made a stop for “to die for” caramels! Tomorrow we’re on the train to Chartres.    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Cathédrale Nôtre Dame of Chartres
    Labyrinth in cathedralChartresLe Serpent RestaurantSaint Foy Chapel

    Chartres

    4 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Today started a little crazy. We had to take the train from Rouen back to Paris and then transfer to another train for Chartres. Everything was going smoothly. We checked the schedule board and headed to track 24. We boarded, but I kept wondering where all the passengers were. After 30 minutes sitting alone, we discovered that the track had been changed, so we had to wait for the next one. Anyway, today ended up being a whirlwind visit of Chartres since we’re only here one day.

    I don’t think any cathedrals can compete with Rouen’s…on the exterior. But I was in complete awe of the interior of Cathédrale Nôtre Dame of Chartres which dates to 1260. The legendary stained glass windows are around 700 years old, and the colors are unbelievably bright and colorful especially all the blues. I was completely speechless…no words to describe the beauty. The windows, many statues and the architecture are like a picture book that tell the whole Christian story from birth to the end of time, and they were used to tell the stories to the illiterate. Pilgrims started coming here in 876 because the town acquired the torn veil (birthing gown) which was supposedly worn by Mary at the birth of Christ. The relic is still there but not currently for public view. There was also a labyrinth inside that provides a 900 foot “journey” to Jerusalem where one hopes to meet God in the middle.

    We did a short walk in the old city which was very charming and ate at a great place called The Serpent. What a treat, and the French onion soup was superb! For the evening we watched “Chartres en Lumières” which was an interactive laser light show with a kaleidoscope of brilliant colors on the cathedral, many with told stories. Then, we hopped on a mini train around town to see this spectacle continued on about 20 different sites throughout the old town. Amazing and mesmerizing!    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Chartres
    ChartresCathédrale St Étienne in BourgesOur place at 4 Rue des Trois MailletsView outside my window tonight

    Chartres and Bourges

    5 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    Elizabeth had a quiet morning at our quaint little apartment while I took off early to explore and wander the cobblestone streets in the old city one more time. I stopped off at the cathedral, wandered through the outside market, and stopped off at a patisserie/boulangerie for a delicious croissant breakfast.

    I wasn’t looking forward to the bus ride to Orleans to catch the train to Bourges, but I really enjoyed it. We drove through the countryside and passed through little villages. I’d travel this way again!

    We reached Bourges where Elizabeth stayed last year. She was so excited to show this charming town to me. Everywhere I go in France is my favorite place. Now, Bourges is my favorite! We took a short walk around the cathedral and stopped for a snack and some wine and cheese to have later.

    I understand why Elizabeth loves Bourges…a lovely town in the Loire Valley. It is built on a hill overlooking swampy plains. And, yes, it too has a spectacular cathedral and a timbered old town! Cathédrale St Étienne (12-13th century) has 2 towers. The North Tower (Butter Tower) was financed by taxing anyone eating butter during Lent! It must have been a popular idea because they did the same thing at the cathedral in Rouen. I know I would be paying a lot of taxes.

    Our accommodation dates back to 1567! I am so impressed, and I have a view of the cathedral from my window! I’ve had it with carrying luggage up 3 flights of winding narrow stairs. I asked a young couple walking by if they would do it! Yes, I rewarded them with some mad money!

    Elizabeth and I laugh about how we take care of each other. She goes to the wine store for a treat, and I go to the patisserie or chocolatier for a treat! And we are both very happy laughing all the way! I am sampling some the regional wines, though.

    Bourges is beautiful at night, too, and we walked down the narrow cobblestone streets all lit up. We ended up at an Italian restaurant which pleased me! The waiters were so personable, and we enjoyed conversation with them. Even the chef/owner came out to talk to us.

    I have all the beautiful shutter windows open, and I’m listening to the pleasant chatter of people at the little cafe restaurant outside our windows and to the bells of the cathedral ringing out right now. This is a magical place. Notice the night view of the cathedral from my window!    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник

    Bourges

    6 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We started the day like many of the French…stopping at the neighborhood boulangerie/patisserie for a quick breakfast which was a quiche Lorraine for me. We couldn’t resist buying a macaron for later. We’ll, we each bought 3 macarons that didn’t make it to lunch! Hands down the best I have ever had in France.

    We decided to take petit train tour here in Bourges which was a great way to get a look at the old town. We stopped at a crêperie restaurant for an authentic Brittany savory galette complèt which is a buckwheat crêpe with ham, cheese, and an egg on top. I had to finish it off with a sweet butter sugar crêpe! Ok, I’m not feeling too guilty because I’m walking over 5 miles a day!

    Of course, a trip to Bourges has to include a visit to thé Cathédrale St Étienne. The exterior of this Gothic cathedral is so majestic, and the interior with all the stained glass panels and rose windows is spectacular. Photos never truly capture the vibrant colors. We took a walk through the gardens next to the cathedral, too.

    We covered a lot of distance walking the old city, and we did some shopping by visiting a few brocantes which are like vintage shops. Elizabeth found a few souvenirs and discovered that the owner of the apartment that she rented last year owns the store. What a great reunion she had! I always look for a little art and especially love watercolors. But I found a beautiful original oil painting by Dupin Dominique that I loved. They had the perfect frame for it, too! It is being shipped home for me.

    A man looked at Elizabeth and she smiled. Well, that started a conversation between them. The problem is that he latched on and kept trying to walk and talk with us. We couldn’t lose him, so we went into the artist shop (where I bought my painting). He hung around outside and we thought he had gone. About 25 minutes later we were walking in the opposite direction to lose him, and he appeared out of nowhere…creepy to say the least. We were then quite adamant about him leaving us alone, and we walked away from him. We didn’t see him again.

    Elizabeth says that she’s saved my life many times. I am so bad about wandering in streets. The problem is that the cobblestone streets are narrow and at times there’s no defined sidewalk…or the sidewalks are so narrow one tends to walk in the street. Which is what I usually end up doing. I’m going to try to focus more, so she can relax and not freak out!

    So tired that we went across the street to a highly recommended restaurant Ça te dit which roughly means “Do you feel like it?” The only thing I understood on the chalk menu was the word poulet, which is chicken. It was Thai food with curry. If you know me, you know that’s a real adventure for me. Well, it wasn’t bad, and I did eat some of it.

    It’s our last night here, and it’s hard to leave. I loved the apartment, the neighborhood, the people…everything here in Bourges. Tomorrow it’s a train ride to La Charité for a 5 day cooking adventure which should be very interesting for me!    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Our Bed and Breakfast HomeBarbara Jo's CourtyardBarbara Jo's CourtyardBarbara Jo's GardenBarbara Jo's GardenBarbara Jo's Garden3My bedroomMy BedroomThe library next to my room

    La Charité sur Loire

    7 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Today was a travel day to our next stop, La Charité sur Loire, which is on the Loire River in the centre of France, in the lower west-end of Burgundy. Our morning was very crazy and quite challenging. Everything seemed to go wrong…wet laundry to pack at the laundromat because we had no time to finish it, a taxi that misunderstood and almost caused us to miss our train, suitcases that seemed to grow and not close, dragging luggage up and down train steps, my purchased wine left on train…totally exhausting and overwhelming.

    But it was all worth it when we reached La Charité sur Loire . Our host, Barbara Jo, met us and the station, and we walked to her house, stopping on the way to see the most incredible view of the small town. She runs a chambre d’hôte (Bed and Breakfast) called La Maison des Mots which means The House of Words. We signed up for the excursion stay which is 5 days. Each day will be different. Barbara Jo is from Vancouver where she owned a culinary bookstore for 20 years. Thus, the name of her house. Actually, the city is called City of Words and you see words, phrases and sentences all over the buildings in town. Well, she bought this house 150 year old house and has completely renovated it. This is the most incredible home that I’ve ever been in, and I hope my photos show this. I love everything about it. Her decor and detail to the history of the house and French design is fantastic. Today, Barbara Jo took us on a tour of the house and then Elizabeth and I had an hour to take a short walk in the town before returning for what they call apéro dînatoire which is like an appetizer dinner with wine. Big meals are usually at lunch. I can’t believe it, but I loved it all and you all know how picky I am. We had radishes that we buttered and dipped them in salt…the good kind of salt and butter! There was duck sausage sliced paper thin. She made a beautiful zucchini flan, and also a tart with sliced potatoes and onions. Oh, I also had a French blue cheese spread on bread with honeycomb honey spread on top of it and then topped with walnuts. I really truly loved it all! Shocking, huh! Oh, the watercress salad and dressing were also fantastic…red wine vinegar, Dijon, and olive oil! I can do it!

    The excursion stay includes all meals and excursion/activities everyday. We can help cook, watch her cook, or just enjoy the food. Her friend, Paula, is here from Vancouver, and it will be the 4 of us. We had a wonderful “apéro dînatoire with great conversation. Oh, there’s also Minette, the cat, who lives here!

    Oh, by the way…this is now my favorite place!

    All of today’s photos are from our short walk here in La Charité sur Loire and also some photos I took of the house tour. I’ll include others tomorrow!

    She has a blog and website is you’re interested https://www.maison-des-mots    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Couleur CaféA corner of her courtyardDining roomOur pear tarteDuck confit with cherry sauceLa Charité sur Loire (not my photo)

    La Charité sur Loire

    8 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Barbara Jo prepared a beautiful French petit déjeuner which included plum compote, yogurt, apricot juice, croissants & pain au chocolat. Her table presentation was so elegant. We left for the marché (market) where she bought a selection of foods to prepare for lunch. We all relaxed at Couleur Café, a charming, cozy place where we had chai tea and chocolate madeleines (small sponge type cake). Elizabeth and I did a little shopping. Oh, dear! I’ve been looking for the perfect French map to hang, and I found it. It’s in a hard tube which is great, but it will be a challenge as it doesn’t fit in the suitcase!

    We discussed meal selections for today, and I have decided to embrace French cuisine. She is aware of my somewhat limited food selection, but I told her that I really wanted to go outside my comfort zone and try some new food dishes. This is really not a cooking school as I mentioned earlier as we are not actively cooking. Rather, we are being introduced to French cuisine. It’s more like an eating school of French cuisine. She’s great with explaining how she prepares the different dishes. Our lunch had many courses. We started at 1:00 and finished at 4:45! The French take their time eating and enjoying conversation. Nothing is hurried. Glasses of wine are sipped throughout the meal. Our first course was a mushroom pasta prepared with fresh mushrooms slowly cooked in butter with crème fraîche added. This was served over a local nest of pasta. The next course was purée cauliflower which was cooked in water and milk, then drained, and mixed with crème fraîche, salt and pepper and served under a piece of fried cod. The third course was duck confit (we had the leg) served with a cherry sauce and accompanied with yellow and green beans with a little walnut oil, salt and pepper drizzled before serving. For dessert we helped make a fresh pear tart. The entire meal with excellent, and I ate it all! I was quite surprised as to how much I enjoyed the cauliflower purée with fried cod. I’ve had duck a few times in my travels but the cherry sauce made this the best that I’ve had.

    Everyone retired to rest or read. Everyone, but me! After all that food, I took off for a long walk through the town and stopped at Couleur for a chocolat chaud à l’ancienne, a very velvety, creamy hot chocolate. Francis, the owner, remembered me from this morning. He was so kind, and we spoke in French for a while. He even came out to see if I was enjoying the hot chocolate.
    It’s been a good day…

    I added a few photos of her kitchen and dining room.    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    La Charité sur LoireApremont sur Alliers (not my photo)Chateau at ApresmontHome nestled in parkTurkish pavillionBelvédèreBrasserie du Lavois for lunchBarbara Jo's SalonBarbara Jo's Salon

    Apremont-sur-Alliers

    9 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Today was a full day touring the tiny medieval village of Apremont-sur-Allier which borders on the Alliers River. There are just 70 residents! The village has won the coveted “Most Beautiful Village” award. Our tour guide was Christian, who is an acquaintance of Barbara Jo’s. He is a retired teacher who spent much of his career teaching French in Africa. He has a home here and also one in Paris. Christian was so charming and had a great sense of humor. Being a teacher, he was helping us with pronunciation. He told me twice that I have an ear for it! Now, if I could just speak it!

    Dating back to 1467, the chateau in this village has been in the same family since 1722! The Le Parc Floral is an incredibly enchanting botanical garden that opened in 1967 and is meant to blend the chateau with the village. Along with the beautiful plant life, there are waterfalls, a Chinese Pagoda Bridge, a Turkish pavilion named Belvédère which was a Russian structure. Nestled in the middle of this park is Medieval style home.

    It was a beautiful day to sit on the Brasserie du Lavois patio where we lingered for a few hours with lunch, wine, and conversation. The main meal is at noon, so I selected the salad with goat cheese, beef filet with mushroom gravy and crème brûlé. Delicious! On the way home we stopped at the canal and watched how the lock works.

    We returned at 4:30 and my bottom is dragging! I’m doing a quick journal before we have our apéro dînatoire (like an elaborate charcuterie board), and I am sure that I’ll be in bed by 8:30!    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Chateau near Sancerre
    SancerreSt Sentur

    Sancerre

    10 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Laure, a guide that Elizabeth met last year, took us on an excursion to Sancerre, a small charming medieval hilltop town above the Loire River surrounded by miles and miles of vineyards. It’s known for its white wines and also for its goat cheese. Its most popular one is comically named Crottin which translates to something that you wouldn’t want to step in! We took a short walk while there, and Elizabeth showed me the language school that she attended last year.

    Laure drove us all through the country-side in the Centre Loire Valley, and we learned all about wine growing. We visited the Bernard Fleuriet et Fils winery and the Rabichatte winery where we sampled many different sauvignon blanc and sancerre wines.

    Lunch was at a restaurant on the Loire River where I tried the Coq au Vin (chicken with wine mushroom sauce) and finished with a popular dessert called Tarte Tatin, which is a type of upside down pastry tarte with caramelized apples. Both were delicious.

    We finished the evening with apéro dînatoire and fun conversation with Barbara Jo and Paula which included a game called truth or lie. It’s the Canadian Thanksgiving, so she had made a cottage pie to celebrate. It is one of my favorite dishes that she’s prepared and almost tasted like stuffing. It had pork, root vegetables such as parsnips, leeks, carrots, and a pumpkin purée on top! I continue to be shocked at my culinary adventures!

    Goodness, it was after midnight when I finally went up to bed and crashed. I am still fighting a sore throat that has now developed into a full fledged cold. I have not slowed down, but it is taking a toll on me. I’m feeling quite exhausted. Tomorrow will be spent taking it easy at the B&B.

    There are issues with petrol here today, and it is either not available or there is a very low supply with long lines and quite it’s quite expensive. I guess it’s not Putin, but a French issue with workers. Why is this concerning? We are renting a car Wednesday back in Bourges and may have to cancel future plans and rethink places available by train.    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Sancerre
    SancerreSancerreCathedral at La Charité sur LoireInterior of Cathedral La CharitéInterior of Chatheral La Charité

    La Charité sur Loire

    11 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    I’ll keep this short. I have tested positive for Covid…no surprise, I guess. I’m pretty sure that I contracted it before coming to France, as I have had a sore throat the entire time, and now it’s progressed. Elizabeth has tested negative. Barbara Jo has no problem with me staying here.

    Before testing, Elizabeth and I spent 3 hours trying to recreate our trip because of the gas situation. In the end we decided to keep our original schedule. We have a full travel day tomorrow to pick up a car back in Bourges, and drive to Brantôme.

    I did mask up and take a short walk through the medieval church …no one was there and it was only a block away. My greatest disappointment today is missing out on cooking a complete French rustic meal at Christian’s house. It is a 3 hour preparation. He was the French teacher who took us to Apremont on Sunday. So, I’m here in my room, packing and then crawling under the covers, hoping to feel better tomorrow.    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Brantôme
    BrantômeBrantômeBrantôme Abbey and CathedralBrantôme CathedralRelic in abbeyBrantômeBrantômeBrantômeBrantômeBrantôme accommodation (blue one)BrantômeBrantôme troglodyte cavesBenedictine monk troglodytesCro-Magnon site

    Brantôme and Sarlat

    13 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Oct 12 and 13…
    Yesterday (Wednesday) was a travel day to Brantôme. We left our beautiful “home” in La Charité and traveled back to Bourges to pick up our car. We were told at Hertz that gas was a serious issue, and all stations were closed in Bourges. But, with a full tank, we felt confident that we would be fine. Whenever we saw a gas station (not often) we filled up. It cost us $20 for 1/4 tank! Too exhausted to eat dinner, we stopped at Aldi’s in Brantôme and bought a baguette and puréed vegetable soup! Doesn’t sound like me, huh? I just needed to get to bed and feel better.

    We’re so happy to have taken a detour to Brantôme which is a little piece of heaven. Brantôme is in the Dordogne region of France and the area that I wanted to visit. We were only there for 1 night. Brantôme is called the “Venice of the Périgord” and is fittingly classified as one the the most beautiful villages of France. It sits on an island surrounded by the Dronne River. There’s an 11th century bell tower with caves beneath it. The bell tower, built in the 11th century, is believed to be the oldest in France. Circling the banks of the river are pretty gardens, ancient stone bridges and centuries’ old houses. The Brantôme Abbey was built by Charlemagne in 769 where the Benedictine monks lived in troglodyte caves…so cool! Imagine…the 8th century! The cobbled streets are filled with cute restaurants and shops. We left in the afternoon for Sarlat-en-Canéda, which is deeper in the Dordogne area.

    We passed through Eyzies-de-Tayac where in 1869 prehistoric humans called Cro-Magnons were discovered in ancient cave dwellings, and and we passed by many rock formations and more troglodyte caves at La Grotte du Grand Roc.

    Our very modern apartment in Sarlat is in contrast with the centuries old medieval buildings. It’s fantastic though! We each have a master bedroom en suite. We wandered for something to eat but were too exhausted to take the time. We are feasting on cheese, crackers, apples, and cookies and crashing early.

    I’m doing a little better today. We’re going to try to give ourselves more time in the evening to relax and heal. We’ll be here until next Tuesday while we explore the many little villages.    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    This is the area we're exploring
    SarlatSarlatSt Sacerdos CathedralLanternes des Morts (Lantern of the Dead) SarlatChateau de BeynacChateau de BeynacBeynac villageAt Chateau Beynac but typical gravesite in FranceView from Chateau BeynacChateau CastelnaudChateau Castelnaud (not my photo)Chateau Les Milandes...Josephine Baker lived here

    Sarlat, Beynac, Castelnaud La Chapelle

    14 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Today was a very busy day. I am feeling pretty good, but still not a lot of energy. First order of business was to stop at a patisserie/boulangerie for a French breakfast and a baguette to go for later! Last night we had driven to the “old town” in Sarlat and wandered a little, so we were definitely ready to see more of the old area. Sarlat seems to be so much bigger and busier with more people than all the other places we have visited. Funny, but the population is only about 10,000! It is definitely more alive than the other villages we’ve visited. Suffice it to say, it’s an enchanting and quaint medieval town that’s actually divided into two with one side more aristocratic and the other more “common”. It’s fun to discover little arched passages and lanes that lead to new treasures to see. I must say that “duck” is what it’s all about here…everywhere! Foie gras and duck dishes are on every menu and many stores are devoted to duck products. There are many duck farms in the area, too.

    After stopping at La Belle Époque for French onion soup, we decided to drive to nearby villages voted as “Most Beautiful Villages” that border the Dordogne River. In the villages of both Beynac (pop 552). and Castelnaud La Chapelle (pop 471) there is an imposing chateau perched at the top of steep cliffs and rocks that seem to reach to the sky with a tiny village built directly below it. Let me tell you, we were many narrow switchback roads, but I don’t think that I scared Elizabeth too many times…she did jump in her seat a few times! I don’t know why? Do you? Just enjoy the photos even though they can never truly capture the scene. As we drove through the countryside we spotted many smaller chateau high above the Dordogne River.

    We returned to Sarlat for a drink before dinner and to work a little on our journals. I was sitting in a café with a glass of wine listening to the young staff laughing and singing to French songs being played loudly on the speaker. And I was in heaven! I was moving ever so slightly with the music and living in a moment of true joy and thinking… I AM IN FRANCE! The young waiter came over and asked if I wanted another wine. I told him in French what I wrote about them singing and laughing and how I was enjoying it so much. He very gently kissed my hand and treated me to a glass of wine! He came over again and asked me to dance…I passed! Hadn’t had enough to drink! It was all truly innocent, and they were at the end of the shift just enjoying their free time. I’ve never had such sweet attention! We closed the place down!    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    La Roque GageacLa Roque GageacDordogne RiverDommeDommeDommeDommeDommeDommeDommeDordogne Valley from Domme (see La Roque Gageac in background)Dordogne Valley from Domme

    Sarlat, La Roque Gageac, and Domme

    15 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Sarlat really comes alive on Saturdays with its market up and down all the streets in the old town. We spent most of the morning browsing, and Elizabeth found some real treasures.

    This afternoon we drove to another nearby tiny village called La Roque (The Rock) Gageac which has also won the “Most Beautiful Village” award. The village is literally sculpted out of the rock between the river and the cliffs. There’s one small street that runs parallel to the river and then a few levels of homes stacked above. People live here (pop 450), and no cars are allowed on the few cliff roads, not even to deliver large items or furniture. It’s believed to inhabited since prehistoric times! You can see where the troglodyte fort was located. There is evidence of cave dwellings dating to 12 century. The fancy castle was built by a rich Englishman in the 18th century.

    We took an hour cruise on a gabarre, a flat-bottomed boat like they used long ago on the Dordogne River to carry barrels of wine. These actual boats were used by Johnny Depp in the movie “Chocolat”! It was relaxing on such a beautiful sunny day and gave us great photos of the village.

    We decided to visit one more “Most Beautiful Village” today and what a treat it was for us! Domme with a population of 925 dates to the 12 century and is a bastide village way up on a hilltop cliff. A bastide, I learned, was a walled city with the square in the middle and a grid of streets built during the Hundred Years Wars to protect its inhabitants. Parts of the original walls and gates are still there. Walking the promenade along the ramparts for an incredible panorama of the Dordogne Valley below was spectacular. There is actually a cave system under the town square, and it’s believed that the templars were imprisoned and killed here. We also enjoyed our usual village tour on the “petit train” and the best ice cream cone! There were lots of cute shops, and I bought a pair of earrings at an art gallery. I could have stayed here a lot longer. May once again be my favorite place!    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Rocamadour
    RocamadourRocamadour (not my photo)The row of houses extends quite farSanctuaireBlack MadonnaBlack MadonnaBeginning of the Stations of Christ pilgrmage up the stepsJerusalem CrossDessert crepe ended up being dinner!

    Rocamadour

    16 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Elizabeth is feeling under the weather, so she took the day to rest. We’ve been going nonstop and a little time to relax sounded great to her. I don’t know how to slow down!

     I noticed a brocante in the square and decided to browse for a while. Lots of antiques, vintage, and flea market items. I guess it’s done only one day a year in Sarlat. Lucky me, I bought a set of silver spoons designed by a well known silversmith, Henri Soufflot. They are from 1900 and a Fench nouveau design. They use smaller spoons for tea and coffee, and these will be perfect.

    This afternoon Elizabeth sent me on my way while she continued to take it easy. I drove to Rocamadour in the Lot Region. The drive took a little over an hour on some very winding, switchback country roads through no man’s land! It followed the Dordogne River for a while and was quite beautiful. In over an hour I never passed a gas station…few and far between. Very few cars or towns, too. It’s funny but as I drive through the villages I wonder where all the people are! The trip home, alone at night was a little challenging for me, and I was glad to have no problems.

    Rocamadour (pop 600) is on a a very high rocky plateau in the Alzou Gorge. The village is a single street that rises abruptly at the base of the rocky cliff. Then, the chapel, churches and towers rise above the village, and finally at the very top of the cliff is the chateau. Rocamadour was very famous in the 12th century as a pilgrimage site where miracles were reported to have happened. A statue of the Black Madonna is believed to have healing powers. The Stations of Christ is a very steep medieval path that leads from the sanctuary to the Jerusalem Cross at the top of the hill and shows an event in the final days of Christ. People have traveled it since the 12th century. I would have done it if I had had the time. Thank heavens there is now a lift that travels from the top to the bottom. I did a quick walk through all three levels today, and then I decided to stay until dusk to see Rocamadour all lit up from across the gorge. What an incredible floodlit spectacle!    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Oscar Wilde
    Victor NoirMonument for the unknown from Paris...bones are kept in ossuary behind thisSpread ashes in Rembrance GardenMedici Fountain in Jardin LuxembourgJardin Luxembourg

    Paris

    19 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    I do have to share our travel adventures on Tuesday. We decided to stop at our boulangerie/patisserie for a croissant and hot drink…closed on Tuesday. No worries, there would be another one. We finally found one, and the croissant was so bad I tossed it in the back seat! No worries, right? After a 4 hour drive to Bourges to drop off the car, we had extra time to eat lunch. Only problem was all the restaurants/cafés close from 2:30–7:00 and it was 2:30. This has happened repeatedly to us! We walked to the train station and discovered that the trains in Bourges decided to go on strike today! The only way to get to Paris and not sleep in the station was to take an $80 taxi ride to another town where they weren’t striking and catching the train. OK…it worked and we arrived at our Paris apartment, which is lovely. Only problem…no electricity, and it was dark. We had to use our phone flashlight to call the number given. Elizabeth was trying to follow directions from a sweet girl who spoke little English. She kept saying “Upstairs” and “Downstairs” when giving directions about the electrical box. She meant the top and the bottom of the box! Well, we asked for someone to come and had to wait for the owner to be contacted. By 8:00 we had lights. We dragged ourselves out to find food and settled for a quick sandwich at a bar nearby. It was just one of those days!

    We woke up in Paris ready to go today, and first on the agenda was Père Lachaise cemetery with a tour guide who was exceptional. There are incredible stories of the deceased. We passed by the graves of some famous names…Jim Morrison, Molière who was France’s “Shakespeare”. There’s Edith Piaf who was France’s beloved national singer and whose husband drove her dead body sitting upright all the way from Provence because she said that she wanted to die in Paris! Oscar Wilde, whose gravestone is stained with permanent lipstick kisses. It’s funny because he hated women and wrote of his hatred!

    A journalist, Victor Noir, is the strangest and one of the most popular. He was shot by an angry prince and died in the street. He became a symbol of revolution. His gravesite has a life size bronze statue of him (with unbuttoned trousers and a protrusion) and it’s as he looked when he died on the street. Well, it has become a symbol of sexual satisfaction and fertility! There are a whole bunch of superstitious rewards if you do various things to it! You can see the worn areas on his body! The government put a fence around it, but the women of Paris protested and they had to take it down!

    The “Jardin du Souvenir” (Garden of Remembrance) was quite different. It is the place where relatives can disperse the ashes of the deceased who have been cremated. See the photos to see the lines of ashes.

    The most powerful were the many monuments to the Holocaust’s victims in one section. It was extremely moving.

    What a beautiful day it was for a walk through the Luxembourg Gardens which is one my favorites to visit in Paris. We ended the day with a Seine River night cruise on the Bateau Mouche.    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Wonderful breakfast at Café St. Regis1So pretty all lined up...Aux Merveilleux de Fred...a favorite placeI can't resist it!La Seine

    Paris

    20 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    We had a nice day just wandering through the Marais and the Ile de la Cité (island where Notre-Dame is located). I had to take Elizabeth to Aux Merveilleux au Fred for a special meringue type dessert to sample before breakfast! It’s always a necessary stop for me in Paris. Breakfast at the Café St Regis was my first French breakfast this trip! I loved visiting the Shakespeare and Company bookstore that sells English language books (and a few French). I found a book with a collection Paris stories from famous French writers. What a nice souvenir for me! I read that the store houses aspiring writers and artists in exchange for helping out around the bookstore and over 30,000 have stayed there over the years. What fun would that be to do! We actually stopped at Aux Merveilleux au Fred again on the way back to the apartment for a treat after dinner.

    Elizabeth wanted to stay in tonight, so I went searching for a restaurant, but it started raining as soon as I stepped out. I went to the nearest pizza place and ordered a take out. Eating has been quite different this trip. Aside from the Bed and Breakfast in La Charité where she prepared French foods, it’s been catch as catch can. Outside of Paris there was a very limited time that restaurants were open, and we never seemed to time it right. Having covid has probably affected our taste. I actually threw away a Berthillon ice cream cone today which is totally unheard of for me!    Читать далее

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  • Yvonne JonesFrance 2022Путешественник
    Dome inside Galleries LafayetteInterior of Galleries LafayetteSacré Cœur from terrace of Galleries LafayetteThe most beautiful currants!À La Mère de Famille...oldest chocolatier in Paris dating back to 1761

    Paris

    21 октября 2022 г., Франция ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Our last day in Paris went by so quickly. We filled it to the brim! Our last breakfast was at an outside boulangerie/patisserie sitting under the awning watching the people and the rain. The grandiose Galleries Lafayette Department Store was a must as Elizabeth has never been there. The Art Nouveau stained glass dome and the interior is stunning. We went up to the terrace at the top of the store to enjoy a panoramic view of Paris.

    Getting closer to the Eiffel Tower was next on the agenda and then we caught Bus 69 which is a great way to sit back and enjoy all the sights as it circles past the favorite ones of Paris. We stayed on and rode to the very end of the line. I really wanted to walk around Rue Cler but didn’t have any stamina left to trudge through the metro with all the darn steps, so I hailed a taxi to get there! What a beautiful afternoon to sit at a café and enjoy a glass of wine before going to dinner at a favorite restaurant of mine, Au Bourguignon Marais, where I had beef bourguignon. Elizabeth loved her escargot, and I refused to try it!

    It’s the end of our trip and I’m struggling to get everything packed. It truly felt like I was in different periods of history as we traveled through the various cities, villages, and regions of France. Each area has its own customs, foods, and way of life that seems to have changed very little. Great trip…beautiful country. I love France! I love the quote from Emile Zola, “I’m living out loud!” That’s what I feel like I have been doing every time I come here. I always say that “France is calling me!” Well, now I’m hearing Wadsworth calling me home, and I am ready!    Читать далее

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    Окончание поездки
    21 октября 2022 г.