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Nancy and Doug Trips
Nancy and Doug Trips

Nancy and Doug Trips

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”
Our lifelong travel bug has given us our most prized ‘possessions’ - the many memories from business and especially family trips.
 “Take only memories, leave only footprints.” Read more🇨🇦British Columbia
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  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Monastery San Jeromimo

    May 13, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 14 °C

    Breakfast out again....we are missing having a kitchen! After this Doug went to the monastery, Nancy feeling that she'd seen one not long ago, tried to catch up on a few things on the internet at the first StarBucks we've gone to in Europe.
    Nicely laid out with comfortable seats and we could have had our larger serving of American coffee and something for less than what we paid at a local breakfast place so we'll remember that for next time. Internet patchy though so frustratingly lost some of the edits.....

    The Monastery of San Jeronimo is a Renaissance Roman Catholic monastery and was originally founded in Santa Fé by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella during the reconquest of Granada and later relocated to the city center. The construction of the Gothic monastery began in 1504. The monastery consists of the Church of San Jeronimo and two cloisters surrounded by various outbuildings and a chapel. The main courtyard has a Doric doorway decorated with thirty-six semicircular arches with shields, emblems and initials of the founding fathers and the coat of arms of the first Archbishop of Granada and monk, Jerome Hernando de Talavera. The second cloister, now the enclosure of the monastery's community of monks, was the residence of the Empress Isabella of Portugal for her wedding to Charles I of Spain. It's only possible to visit the first floor, since the upper floor is inhabited by cloistered nuns. The audio guide here was very good.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Generalife

    May 12, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 24 °C

    The gardens within and around the palace are simply amazing. The concept of the central courtyard with a pool to reflect the home, a fountain and plantings either side is the basic plan. The "summer place" north east of the main palace was originally an area of retreat but also an area where much of the agricultural activities of the palace would take place. The mediterranean climate means a lot of beautiful produce and plants can grow here. When we visited the rose gardens were in full bloom and between the water, fountains and flowers it was beautiful, fragrant and relaxing. The wall of jasmine was especially striking.

    This charming villa overlooking the Alhambra is often said to have been the summer palace of the Sultans, but in fact it was a hunting lodge and country retreat, where the rulers, accompanied by their wives, could escape the turmoil of the palace. The Moors, like today's Andalucians, did not combat the heat by seeking the open air, but rather by withdrawing into shady, secluded patios and rooms.

    The Spanish aristocrats who became its owners after the Reconquest radically altered the appearance of the little palace . One has only to compare the Generalife's courtyard to the other patios of the Alhambra to realize what a departure it is from the Moorish ideal of a perfect garden, which was totally enclosed, with, at either end of the central pond, a single fountain dish creating a burble which was just audible enough to break the silence.

    In spite of the changes made by the Christians, the Generalife is the most charming corner of the Alhambra, thanks to its gardens and fast-flowing water. In fact, the name of the main courtyard is the Patio de la Acequia - Courtyard of the Water Channel - in reference to the water which coursed through the villa before supplying the Alhambra below.

    The Christians opened the pointed windows in the wall, several of which are painted with the motto of the Catholic Monarchs, TATO MOTA, which, according to popular wisdom, is an abbreviation for "Tanto Monta el Rey como la Reina", loosely translatable as "The King sits as firmly in the saddle as the Queen". Isabella, as Monarch of Castile, was politically stronger than her husband Ferdinand, King of Aragon, and the motto reminded her that the coalition - consecrated by their marriage - gave equal rights to both.

    The escalera del agua, or "water staircase" is genuinely Moorish. The ideal of the "desert people" was to have water flowing everywhere, even, it seems, along the bannisters of their staircases!    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Alcazaba fort

    May 12, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 24 °C

    This was built before the palace. Very large impressive fortress, larger than Catelo de Sao Jorge in Porto but again changed and altered over the centuries.

    The Alcazaba in Granada, also known as the old citadel, is one of the oldest buildings of the Alhambra and was used as a fortification in the 9th century. It was first constructed as a small alcazaba during the taifas era and was later preserved during the nazar era. The Alcazaba is the main residential barrio where the soldiers responsible for defending the Sultan and the Alhambra lived.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    Lion CourtAbencerrajesHermanas

    Nasrid Palace

    May 12, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 19 °C

    This was really incredible. For those who have not studied religions, according to conventional Islamic belief, the Qur'an was revealed by the angel Gabriel to the prophet Muhammad in Mecca in the 600s AD. In Islamic religious art and decoration, human likenesses are disallowed but works of God, primarily mathematical abstractions (geometric patterns), calligraphy and shapes from nature (flowers) and especially the awe inspiring (stars on ceilings). Various additions over the years under various sultans.

    Extremely intricate carved stonework everywhere and dome ceilings plastered in geometrical shapes and then painted like a kaleidoscope forming a large star overhead. Most impressive was where the Sultan would receive audience. Hard to believe this was all done 1000 years ago!

    There are three independent areas in the Nasrid Palaces (Palacios Nazaríes): the Mexuar, which corresponds to the semipublic part of the palace or selamlik, for justice administration and State affairs; the Comares Palace (Palacio de Comares), which was the official residence of the king; and the Palace of the Lions (Palacio de los Leones), which was the private area of the palace, where the Harem was located. Not only were these areas different because of their functions, but also because of their artistic characteristics. The Comares Palace (Palacio de Comares) was decorated in a typically Muslim way, but the Palace of the Lions (Patio de los Leones) presents Christian influences, probably as a consequence of the friendship between Mohammed V and his Castilian counterpart Pedro I, the Cruel.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Palace of Charles V

    May 12, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 18 °C

    Not much to see inside other than a brief visit to the courtyard. The Palace is, however, the home of the excellent Alhambra Museum. We enjoyed the museum of artifacts from the site housed in a museum constructed to both finish the never completed palace and house these objects.

    Its name is due to the fact that it was Carlos V, grandson of the Catholic Monarchs, who, as a result of his wedding with Isabel of Portugal in Seville and subsequent honeymoon in the Alhambra, was impressed by the beauty of the Nasrid Palaces. In this way, he commissioned the construction of a new palace for his residence and to glorify the triumph of Christianity in Spain.. The works began in 1533 and suffered many delays until they were finally concluded in 1637, without finishing the construction and the Palace was never occupied.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    1Banos Angel Barrios

    Alhambra

    May 12, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 16 °C

    We caught a bus after breakfast to the main entrance. Very nice leafy area and Nancy said she'd likely prefer it to the historic centre if she was to come again....quick ride down the hill if you wanted to go to the touristy center on frequent bus 30 or 32. This is Spain's most visited site and we were soon to find out why - in summary a must see. We were not the only ones wanting to see it and we noted as we walked up that they listed that tickets were all sold out for the day (on line sales) although some walk ups seem to be having luck. Later Doug found out that the max they let in is 6600 per day. Torres Balba (1888-1960) is said to have done a lot to the conversation of this site and the concept of restoring or stabilizing to the status of the time period. Judging from the before 1920s and now, there has been a lot done to bring its amazing splendor back.

    The Alhambra is a complex of several monuments, each of which will have its own posting to follow.
    The complex was begun in 1238 by Muhammad I Ibn al-Ahmar, the first Nasrid emir and founder of the Emirate of Granada, the last Muslim state of Al-Andalus.
    Nasrid rulers continuously modified the site. especially in the 14th century during the reigns of Yusuf I and Muhammad V. After the conclusion of the Christian Reconquista in 1492, the site became the Royal Court of Ferdinand and Isabella (where Christopher Columbus received royal endorsement for his expedition).    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    GPX
    GPX

    Day 20 Overview

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 25 °C

    Walking the sights, especially the upper areas of Sacromonte and the old Arab section of Albaycin.

    Moroccan lunch at Tajin Dar in the Albaycin. A Turkish dinner at Nemrut Kebap on Plaza Nueva -- probably a chain, but very good.

    Walked 14446 steps or 9.9km.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    Entrance - No Photos allowed inside
    Entrance - No Photos allowed inside

    Royal Chapel

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 26 °C

    This was built before the Cathedral. Doug paid €5 to go in to see King Ferdinand II and Queen Isabella's final resting place. Nancy was content to see it from the outside. When King Ferd II of Aragon, and Queen Izzie of Castile married, Spain was united. They were a busy couple: sent Chris Columbus out to discover the New World the same year they drove the Moors out of the Alhambra in Granada after 800 years of occupation. Five of their seven kids survived to adulthood and they arranged strategic political marriages for all of them; centered on the House of Habsburg, this group became the most powerful family in Europe.

    The Royal Chapel of Granada, also known as the Capilla Real de Granada, is an Isabelline style building that was built between 1505 and 1517. It is the burial place of the Spanish monarchs, Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand, the Catholic Monarchs. The chapel also contains a gallery of artworks and other items associated with Queen Isabella. The Catholic Monarchs decided to be buried in Granada because they saw its conquest as the crowning achievement of their reign. The chapel was built in the Gothic style and already existed as an institution with a Main Chaplain and twelve chaplains. The Queen died one year before the starting of the edification of the site, and the King died one year before the work was completed.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    1

    Granada Cathedral

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 27 °C

    To tour this cathedral we used the very entertaining free download available on site using their wifi. She took us around the cathedral helping review the parts of a cathedral. Walking down the central aisle nave) you go past the cross (transept) of a crucifix arriving at the choir and then altar and rear to the the apse (very few churches allow you to walk back to the apse via the ambulatory).

    There are side chapels built along both sides of the nave, some deeper than the other. Improved also some general knowledge eg St Peter (San Pedro) holds the keys, St John the Baptist may hold his head and we hope St Christopher, protector of travelers, remains with us on this journey.

    The Granada Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of the Incarnation was built on top of the city's main mosque after the reconquest of Granada. The first stone was laid in 1523, and its architect was Enrique Egas, a master of the Old Gothic School. The cathedral was completed in 1561, and of the two planned towers, only one was built. The cathedral has impressive facades and a stunning interior with a grand altar and several chapels. It is the 4th largest cathedral in the world and was built in accordance with the desires of the Catholic kings. It is 115 meters long and 67 meters wide.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Dal Horra Palace

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 25 °C

    Stopped here as it was included in our ticket of places to visit. We both felt it is not really a worthwhile stop unless on the way as it does not offer anything particularly unique. However, we were appreciative of the efforts taken in its historical preservation. As we were to learn the next day, this Arabic small palace and those of the Albumbra owe much to the lifelong work of an early conservationist and restorative specialist named Torres Balba.

    Palacio de Dar al-Horra, “Home of the Honest”, a, formed part of the large palace of Zirid King Badis,
    It was so-named for having been the official residence of Aixa la-Horra, wife of Muley Hacén and mother of the last Emir of Granada, Boabdil.
    After the conquest, it was transferred by the Catholic Monarchs to Hernando de Zafra, who made it his residence. Zafra tied to establish a convent of Dominican nuns in this building and adjacent buildings, although he did not succeed, it eventually being converted into a Franciscan convent by Queen Isabel, inhabited from 1507 to this day by nuns of the order of St Clare. The building is centered by a rectangular patio, with a small pool toward the south side, with porticoes on the north and south sides. Due to being a cloistered monastery, it has maintained its former Islamic forms and part of its former Nasrid decoration intact. The inscriptions carved into the plaster of the viewpoint enhance the private nature of the house with words and phrases of celebration such as “Blessing”, “Happiness”, “Health is perpetual” and “Joy continues”. The upper floor retains the style of Islamic houses and has wonderful views over the Axarea quarter, with its mosque converted into a church of San Cristóbal and the Zirid wall Its small garden is irrigated with water from the Aynadanar canal, from the large Aljibe del Rey cistern, located nearby, reaching it through the so-called Arch of the Nuns.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Albaycin

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 24 °C

    Walked from Sacromonte into the Arab "commoner section" which lies south of the Darro River/Valley with the fortress and palace (Alhumbra) to the north. Not much tourismos to be seen; relatively deserted, hilly, interesting Arabic cobblestoning, flowers predominating, uneven and at times slippery footing.

    The Albaycin is the old Arab Quarter. It comprises approximately the area between the hill of the Alhambra, the hill of San Cristobal, the Sacromonte and Elvira.
    The Albaycin is like a different world within Granada. This is due to the strong Muslim influence in this area. It was the place where the first Siri court was built in the eleventh century.
    At the height of splendour the Albaycin enjoyed in the last years of Nazarid dominance, the quarter comprised a population of more than forty thousand inhabitants and thirty mosques.
    The streets were very narrow and small with clean houses, plus numerous wells, some of which are still in the Albaycin.
    With the reconquest, the Albaycin was left for Muslims as their own place of residence. But soon the population dwindled.
    The constant revolts forced the monarchs to expel the Arabs who were practising Muslim. The mosques were demolished and on the same sites churches were raised.
    The Moors left behind their homes, which were used by wealthy Christians to build their carmenes.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 19 °C

    Drop off close to this "museum" with a steep walk up cobblestoned steps to the top. Very much enjoyed this, very well done with references to various places in the world people have lived/live in caves. Of particular interest were the short films on the evolution of Flamenco Dancing and Singing. You leave with a clear understanding of how "baked in" this style is: old clips of children at a young age dancing and clapping; flamenco in the caves which is now part of the tourism industry.

    Sacromonte cave houses are a complex of whitewashed caves dug into the side of the hill. These caves provided safety for their inhabitants (mostly Spanish Gypsies) not only from the scorching Andalusian sun and winter rains but also from religious and ethnic prosecution.

    The museum features a total of 11 caves or houses, most of which are made up of a couple of rooms complete with some basic furniture and various tools of the trade. Each cave has a theme: a typical dwelling, a stable, a basket-weaving cave, a kitchen, a ceramics workshop, and a textiles workshop. Together, the caves paint an extraordinary picture of a life you could hardly imagine.

    While traditionally a Gypsy district, Sacromonte also took in moriscos (Moores converted to Christianity), freed or escaped black slaves and Castilians.
    Gypsies first arrived in Granada as camp followers to the armies of the Catholic Monarchs that marched victoriously on Granada after expelling the last Moor dynasty from Spain. They were allowed to remain outside the city walls on the condition that they abandoned their nomadic lifestyle and pick up a trade
    After the Civil War, in the 1940s and 50s, farmers from rural parts of Granada fled to the hills of Sacromonte, forced by famine to abandon their lands. The community swelled up to its maximum size.

    But in 1963, six months of torrential rains destabilized the soil, and the entire hill was in danger of collapsing. Probably not wanting the responsibility for inaction, the civil authorities forcefully evicted the residents of Sacromonte caves, ordering them never to return. And that was the end of the Gypsy history of Sacromonte caves.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    North vs South facing hillside Darro

    Sacromonte

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 18 °C

    Our hotel is located at the edge of old town and very close to the bus stops. Very easy to get places in Granada. Buses are large sized vans that manage to make it down some very narrow streets.

    Sacromonte has for centuries been the home of gypsies, bohemians and Flemish artists. Gypsies settled in Granada in the eighteenth century, The Gypsies, like the Jews, are a group that has preserved its pure racial identity over the centuries. The gypsies are thought to originally belong to the poorest castes of people from India who were nomadic, offered skills in blacksmithing, basket weaving and sewing as they travelled through. Their "homeless ways" were of concern and they were forced eventually to "settle". A little known fact is that at one time these people were considered genetically unfit by the Nazis and they were the 2nd most "exterminated" group of people after the Jews in WW2.

    Of note is the difference in vegetation between the areas north and south of the river with the northing being lush and green (where the Alhumbra is located) and the south dry and relatively bare with prickly pear and large agave plants. This less desirable land became home to the "less desirables" of the society who were persecuted: gypsies, moristas, and negros (freed slaves of the Arabs who departed after the 1500s). The hills offered cheap housing (dug out of the sedimentary soil of smooth stones, sand and soil that the glaciers left behind).

    The Sacromonte offers views of indescribable beauty: the towers of the Alhambra, the white slopes of the Albaycin, the Valparaiso valley and the River Darro. The caves of Sacromonte are grouped around ravines, forming what amounts to streets, and the next stop is a visit to the cave museum.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Corral del Carbón

    May 10, 2023 in Spain ⛅ 26 °C

    The Corral del Carbón is the oldest Andalusian monument in Granada, dating from 1336 or earlier, and was a coal yard, a warehouse, and an Inn for merchants. Later in the sixteenth century, it was adapted for stage performances.

    The construction consists of an entrance pavilion and an inner body with a courtyard surrounded by galleries and craft rooms.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Drive the Costa del Sol

    May 10, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 21 °C

    Nancy departed the lovely Casa Olina with some wistfulness, definately a 10/10 rating on this one. Left before 10 am with the intent to stop at Marbella and Malaga on our way to Granada - estimated total driving time about 3.5 hrs. Hwy A-7 is the Mediterranean Highway, over 1000 km along the Mediterranean Sea. As Doug noted, not really a highway in the sense that we know it as drivers basically area waiting full stop at yield to come on and in one case a bus was stopped in the Rt lane and it was occassionally punctuated with a round about. Busy all along this and we were concerned enough about getting on and off and lost in the process that we ended up bypassing both the big "Ms". Marabella is a "for the rich and famous types" and Malaga Nancy knows has a lot of interval timeshare availability. Extremely developed area all along the seaside hills with many many high rises and cranes from the ocean to the highway and then from the highway up the hillside. Shortly after Malaga we decided to take an exit as a rest and bathroom break was really needed and ended up on the beachfront in quite a charming place from the looks of things: La Cala del Moral. It has a quite a wide flat waterfront and city area with the highway set significantly back on a rise. Quaint cantina on the beach and and a nice looking boardwalk and curved protected beach. Very pleasant. So we decided to have an early lunch; it is hard to find any "fast food" in Spain although Burger King and MacDonalds are here - have not tried thus far, We can accuse no one of "rushing us" through a meal....usually we have to track down someone to get the "la cuenta" and this spot nwas no exception.

    After leaving the seaside lunch, our drive got progressively easier with an impressive uncrowded four lane (divided) highway, multiple tunnelling through mountains and very large bridges, the longest being 1 km long: great highway: high level of engineering. A lot of agriculture reappeared as soon as we left the Costa Del Sol, many greenhouses and agriculture that had sun protective sheets on them. We saw the Sierra Nevada mountains as we came into Granada; Doug was preparing for some craziness getting into the city. First an almost 360 degree turn off the highway (?ie aren't we re entering the highway) into a round about to reach the entry into the gas station, then out into the round about again which was very crowded with cars going every which way.....and we saw why - tow truck loading a stalled vehicle. We then ended up doing two runs around the same circuit trying to enter a parking lot where we were to deposit the car. Mission accomplished! We formally returned the car to an office nearby, then had a 1+ km walk (30 deg C) through a leafy Granada University into the old town. Our hearts fell as we realized a demolition had been done right next to our hotel and there was a lot of drilling and noise. Reception was pleasant and informative. The room in this "quaint" hotel and it is quite small for the two us. There is always going to be accommodation that looks different than anticipated and thus far this is the one that is furthest from ideal for our needs as we really miss having a desk/chair to do our computer stuff. On the upside, check in was easy and the water and air conditioning works well. We had our missed packed lunch in the nearby Trinidad Park and then visited one of the oldest sites in Granada, basically a central square and two stories with balcony and rooms coming into that. We had some of our bottle of sherry and enjoyed the rooftop views and that ended a busy day.

    From Estepona by Marbella around Malaga. Stop in La Cala del Moral. Then past Nerja and Motril before heading up to Granada.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    1

    Estepona Orchidarium

    May 9, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 22 °C

    There is a lot to know about orchids! This large temperature, humidity controlled greenhouse has 1,500 species of orchid from all over the world and 5,000 types of plants. The orchids nestle in amongst shrubs and semi-tropical perennials as they would in the wild. The structure was opened in 2015, and the plants have had time to establish themselves. We spent about an hour in the orchidarium, there were more leaves and plants in airy pots than flowers and the waterfall was closed for renovation but it was interesting to see what they grew the orchids in and how they supported them, many on the cork bark grown here in southern Spain.
    Some orchid plants can survive for over 100 years. Orchids grow in every country except Antarctica. They have been around for over 100 million years, and there are over 25,000 species with more being discovered every year.
    The bond between orchids and certain species of insects is tight and highly specialized. Petals have similar shape and color to imitate female insects to attract males and ensure pollination. The Bee Orchid, lures male bees with its enticing smell and bee-like appearance. Substances isolated from orchids are used in the perfume industry, as spices and in traditional Asian medicine. Vanilla comes from the pod of an orchid, It is difficult to grow, requiring high humidity, bright but indirect sunlight and warm temperatures, which is why it so expensive.

    The neighborhood around the Orchidarium shows many of the over 60 murals that Estepona has all over the city and some by the same artist who decorated the plaster garden walls at Casa Olina. The apartments in this area varied, some quite modest others quite modern; a constant theme is people here love their balcony and really use the space (much less square footage in most cases than we have on Lequime!) for growing flowers, storing bikes, drying clothes in addition to often being the location for the air conditioner (?what would strata think about that!). Today, an elderly lady was feeding pigeons from her 3rd floor apartment. Seemed to be a lot of seniors strolling or wheeling about in this quieter area. Not a touristic area, you could see individually owned small stores ie fruiterria (fruits and veg), carniciera (butcher) and people walking back home with their groceries of the day, often with company or in company of a small dog. Dachshunds and lower slung elongated dogs seem quite popular, along with chihuahuas here. Older people and dog walks generally go along with early in the day activities, so perhaps we were wrong in our perceptions as most restaurants and stores have yet to come to life at 9 in the morning!

    We were back home by noon after Google and Nancy had us going around in a circle in an industrial area for 15 minutes after taking the wrong exit out of a roundabout. Of interest was a roundabout that had a stoplight at the entrance along with a cross walk (often a round about and cross walk co exist); usually roundabouts here have two lanes entering them and may have five exits....lots to watch out for! Made it home with only one honk from an annoyed local....there was a service vehicle parked in the right lane inside the round about forcing us suddenly into the left lane.....fun, right!!??    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    Plaza OrtizPasadena de Maruja Mallo

    Day 17 - Estepona AM Walk and PM Chill

    May 8, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 20 °C

    We decided to drive into Estepona right after breakfast with the goal of walking the "old town" while it was cool and and seeing its Andalusian white houses decorated with flowers. Estepona is a coastal town (pop. 70,000) described as "bustling yet tranquil". It has a typical Mediterranean climate where summers are hot with temperatures averaging close to 35 degrees while winters are mild with highs touching 15 degrees. The boardwalk along the beach was quite impressive, lots of sitting areas, the city was still waking up in the cool of the morning, a tractor was smoothing the sand, 3 men and a truck were scrubbing down the main street, and there was also 2 women operating a small watering truck and hoses to water the many plants along the streets. The old town streets had "community feel" in that the pots on any particular street matched each other. Although we only spent two hours in town, it looked like a very pleasant place to live or visit and impressively organized (underground parking!) tidy and safe.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    Pass Summit
    Pass SummitGPX

    Day 16 Overview

    May 7, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 26 °C

    Ronda to Costa del Sol via mountains. Up up to the summit (Puerto de Las Palomas 1190 meters above sea level; Doug just checked for the stat and found it on a search called dangerousroads.org!) and down down again safe and sound. Narrow roads, spectacular views. "Jean Claude Bourget" was glad he rented an automatic as a lot of things to watch for enroute - cyclists, motorcycles, other vehicles, the odd rather large RV plus the challenges when you got into the villages that were not planned around the existence of the automobile!Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Costa del Sol Arrival

    May 7, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 29 °C

    All of a sudden there it is, over a hill past some windmills...the Mediterranean Sea and Costa Del Sol! Rather suddenly we were on a four lane highway. Highways are interesting around here....speed limit 80 k/h and 15 sec later 40 k/h and then into a round about figuring out which car is going where and then figuring out which exit to take. Doug and I have a code now - exit according the the hours of a clock. Managed to find Casa Olina without a hitch (LOL) where we were met by Albert who is Danish origin, retired from a career in Vienna and bought this place where he lives on the upper floor and there are 3 spacious units he rents out. Lovely accommodations, extremely well equipped with many thoughtful details and an immaculately kept artistic garden surrounding a pool with views overlooking the Mediterranean. Given Sunday, all shops are closed so we are recommended a nice spot for dinner called LaSal by the ocean; it was very warm walking down to it in part because we needed to figure out how to get over the highway via a pedestrian bridge. This is a suburban area about 10 miles from the small city of Estepona; very different environment than the cities we've been staying in. The houses and condos are all built on a hillside so most people get a view of the ocean. After dinner a walk along the board walk and saw, yep, another Moorish ruin!Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Grazalema

    May 7, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 21 °C

    After more hair raising travel (aka Nancy, Doug thought it was fine and enjoyable but agreed John should not take his F350 and RV along it!) driving along narrow roads with steep drop offs (intermittent concrete block barriers but the occasional chipped or missing which Nancy did not find reassuring) we reached this pleasant town which was quite tourist friendly. Walked around taking in the scenery including some fir trees mixed with palms (Grazalema receives the most annual rainfall of any town in Southern Spain and there was a picture of snow on the trees; there is a national park and hiking in this area) and stopped for our usually late AM coffee hoping to have a bite of lunch but no food served til 1 pm so back on the road. Next town that we passed through was Ubrique "spectacularly situated in front of the crag of the Cruz de Tajo". Unfortunately we did not get a chance to stop for lunch as given that it is on a crag, the roads are narrow and we did not come across any parking stops before we found ourselves headed out of town. This town was renowned for its leather industry supplying the likes of Louis Vuitton and Gucci. One last town: Cortes de la Frontera; in the area of cork harvesting. We saw some of the cork trees sans bark on the lower trunk. It replaces itself every 9 years. No trouble parking in this town - why? : basically all was shuttered for the Sunday. Not a touristic place. We had peanut butter on a cracker and the remains of our water and headed for the Mediterranean, continuing or descent down to sea level. Doug wondered whether there had been a miscalculation as we were still at a fairly high elevation given our 50 minute anticipated drive.Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Zahara de la Sierra

    May 7, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 20 °C

    Doug unfortunately did not have a great sleep but was ready for a "scenic drive through the mountains". Up narrow roads with significant drop offs, cyclists, motorcycles and some RVs. We thankfully got an early start such that we were first to take up a parking spot near a mirador (viewpoint), the first of many. The lake is actually a reservoir and the 360 degree view was spectacular. The first so called pueblos blanco or white village, originally part of Arabic culture. Repeated pattern of Moorish ruins and a church on the hill then the town built around it and narrow streets through the town (usually with no parking available!).Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    View from our roomView from our room

    Day 15 Overview

    May 6, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 18 °C

    Car pickup at Europcar Santa Justa train station Seville. About 3 hours of driving, and a surprising 14,500 steps in the three towns we explored.

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler
    1

    Ronda

    May 6, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 24 °C

    Ronda sits on each side of the 100 metre deep El Tajo gorge. Its most famous attraction is the “New Bridge”. Finally completed in 1793 after forty years of construction, the scary yet beautiful Puente Nuevo is Ronda’s most famous attraction. It connects up El Mercadillo (The Market), the newer part of town, with La Ciudad (The Town), the old Moorish quarter and is breathtaking. So dangerous was its construction that 50 workers lost their lives in the process.
    Ronda is the birthplace of the modern Spanish bullfight and the hometown of its greatest dynasty. It was here, during the 18th century, that Francisco Romero faced the bull on foot for the first time, rather on horseback. Today, two of the most famous practitioners of the style pioneered by Romero are Cayetano and Francisco Rivera Ordoñez, whose grandfather featured in Hemingway‘s A Dangerous Summer.

    We arrived in Rhonda uneventfully parking our car in an underground close to Rhonda Central Hotel. This was an accommodation that had a check in desk between 1600-2000 hrs approximately. Very pleasant young woman to check us in and this was the most modern and spacious accommodation thus far. We were right in the centre of Rhonda, near the "modern birthplace of the Bullring (Torres de Rhonda) that is 450 years young, now turned museum. Youtube videos and photos do not do justice to the dramatic setting of this town. It has all the charms of a small Spanish town and the river gorge it is built around makes every part of it truly spectacular. There are a lot of places to walk around, up and down including a part that is quite old that you can see from the top view and we had a bit of an explore. Nancy was taken by a large yellow stuccoed building, ripe for a major reno and one wonders when this was a last a lux place that those young people doing a tour of Europe during the time of industrialization in the 1800s. Overall, a lot of atmosphere and romance...who could not fall in love with the flowers, promenades, interesting and varied vistas and mix of old and evolving here. We left wishing we could stay at least another day. Ernest Hemingway especially loved Ronda and it served as an inspiration for some of his work; we can see why.    Read more

  • Nancy and Doug TripsSW Europe 2023Traveler

    Setenil de las Bodegas

    May 6, 2023 in Spain ☀️ 27 °C

    Setenil de las Bodegas, a picturesque town in white with red tiled roofs. The unique thing about Setenil de las Bodegas is that the settlement grew out of rock caves. The rocks overhang the settlement. Ancient Setenil could be thousands of years old but the modern part grew from 1484 onwards when Christian armies vanquished Moors then residing in the castle on the top.

    This was very interesting and Nancy had not seen anything like it although Doug had seen Cappadocia in Turkey where there was a whole civilization living in caves. It is uncertain the exact first inhabits of these recesses in stone but people eventually built (not too deeply) into the rocks on both sides of this canyon. It is completely tourism that runs the town but it was in a pleasant and interesting way. As it was about 1430 hrs and washroom and a bite were in high order, we actually stopped at a little tapas bar frequented more by locals than tourists before heading down into the main area on the south, over a bridge and then up the shady side. Stopped to buy a "Torta De Sentenil" which is a 1/2 inch flat bar type cake with fruit filling and sesame seeds, caraway seed and almonds sprinkled on it; tasty. We stopped for a coffee before heading back on to the road.    Read more

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