• Nancy and Doug Trips
avr. – juin 2023

SW Europe 2023

Une aventure de 62 jours par Nancy and Doug Trips En savoir plus
  • Miradouro de Santa Luiza

    29 avril 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We can see our apartment from this viewpoint and we can see and hear it at night from our window!

    Miradouro de Santa Luiza is a picturesque outdoor terrace and one of the most popular viewing spots in the city of Lisbon. It takes its name from the neighboring church of Santa Luiza.En savoir plus

  • Alfama: Our 'hood

    29 avril 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We lived in the very atmospheric area of Alfama with a confusing maze of narrow streets, alleys, and staircases.. Although our accommodation had indicated access to an on site laundry, they advised it was too busy right now for us to use it but there was a launderette in the neighbourhood. It had 3 washers, for variable loads and costs. We waited 30 min to use the small one, 30 min for the wash and 15 minutes for the dry - a significant time investment. While there, numerous tuk tuks with tourists went by and they all stopped to point out an alleyway across from the launderette, there would be a photo taken and off they would go. We bought a beer, stood at the door and watched the street scene go by just like locals! Alfama would not be everyone's cup of tea - the hill with irregular steps, the garbage cans (and smells, would be worse in the hot summer) which seemed to always be overflowing (no recycling!) The empty beer bottles and broken glass were sad to see and recycling at least these would benefit the neighborhood by keeping it much tidier and help some of those living there who must just be barely getting by.

    We personally enjoyed it as it really is an old medieval place by its nature. However, the lack of consistent internet really put us behind on recording our personal travel notes!
    En savoir plus

  • Day 8 Overview

    29 avril 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day trip to Sintra for a couple of palaces, coffee, and lunch. The famous Tram 28, then a 40 minute commuter train from Rossio, Ubers in Sintra , and 14,199 on foot. Cool, windy and foggy up in Sintra, which is not unusual!En savoir plus

  • National Palace of Ajuda

    30 avril 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Doug wanted to be out the door at 8 but we left at 8: 30, a rather long wait for the bus to take us the 30 min out to Jeronimos Monastery. He feared there would be a long line and indeed there was. Confusing to figure out where to get tickets, long line and then nothing there but two digital ticket machines but there was a helper who advised we could enter directly by just showing the Lisbon card (other places have required we show it, get a ticket and then present it. Debated about the 45 minute estimated wait time and decided to come back, so hopped on a bus up to this more recently built palace and home to the last reigning King who was assassinated along with his eldest son in 1908. The younger son King Manuel II was 20 when he assumed the title but was exiled along with his mother Amelia in 1910 when the Republic was formed and they were offered a place to stay by a relative royal in Italy; Amelia lived until 1951. Conclusions: Portuguese history is confusing and not helped by many of the people bearing very similar names, especially all the Marias! This was built post quake as a new Royal Residence but seems most did not want to live here full time (maybe too big?). Seemed to largely be a show place of opulence and fine art. Those that did make it their home moved into ever smaller rooms rooms as they aged. It is the usual sudden end to monarchies in Europe due to the great divide between nobility and the average guy. Well worth the visit.

    Built in 1795, this was Portugal’s last royal palace. When the royal residence in what is now Praça do Comércio on the waterfront was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, the king decided that it was safer to live up on a hill. The chosen location was Ajuda, just above Belém, which had been less affected by the disaster.

    It was meant to be one of the largest palaces in Europe and the world, with gardens cascading down to the river, but only about one fifth of the original project was completed. When Napoleon’s army invaded Portugal in 1807, the royal family fled to Brazil (and actually reigned from the colony for several years), so the construction was interrupted. By the time the royals returned, many prefered that the country become a republic, which ended up happening in 1910. That meant that the royal palace was no longer royal, so the neoclassical building was turned into a museum. It also occasionally hosts official ceremonies, but is generally open to the public.

    It has quite a sumptuous interior, with an ostentatious décor in several magnificent rooms. The highlights are the Audience Room (decorated with pieces from the 15th to the early 20th centuries), the Throne Room (with a ceiling painted in 1825 representing a temple opening to Heaven), the Banquet Room (where official dinners are still often held), and the King João IV Room (completely covered with paintings added in 1823, including a ceiling by Domingos Sequeira, one of Portugal’s leading artists of that period).
    En savoir plus

  • Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

    30 avril 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    When we went back to the Monastery after the Palace it was still a long line so decided to have our packed lunch on a bench across from it where there is a lovely garden and fountain, just reopened in 2023. We then walked down to see the statue commemorating the Discoveries that Portugal made in the mid 1400s to early 1500s. After this Belem Tower, just a quick pix - still very busy with people and hot....then walked back and waited for the Monastery. It is an impressive sculpted building although empty and fairly devoid of signage/descriptions as to the history and usage of the building. We also saw the attached church which is in good shape, masses are active and it is the final resting place of some notables in Portuguese History.

    This monastery was built in the 1500s paid for with the profits made in the spice trade with the East, and was home to the monks of the Order of Saint Jerome (the “Jerónimos” or Hieronymites). These monks were supposed to pray for the king’s soul, and are responsible for the recipe of the famous custard tarts (the “pastéis de Belém” or “pastéis de nata”).

    The church (officially called Igreja de Santa Maria de Belém) features tree-trunk-like columns that seem to grow into the ceiling, and holds the tombs of explorer Vasco da Gama and 15th-century poet Luís de Camões. Its vaulting is an extraordinary example of the technology of Gothic architecture in Europe, although the style is really called “Manueline,” a Portuguese Gothic that developed under the reign of King Manuel I. The entire monastery is a remarkable masterpiece of Manueline architecture, with ornamentation mixing naturalistic elements and religious and royal symbols.

    If glorifies the Age of Discovery, Portugal’s power at sea, and its contact with distant lands. Coral, sea monsters and ropes are sculpted in the magnificent cloisters, which are unlike any other in the world.

    Across the street is a landscaped park known as Praça do Império (literally “Empire Square”), with a large fountain and paved with the traditional Portuguese cobblestone designs, that include the Coats of Arms of all the regions of Portugal.
    En savoir plus

  • Discoveries Monument

    30 avril 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This monument was built in concrete and limestone in 1960 to stand as a reminder of the “Age of Discovery.”

    It’s shaped like a ship, with 32 figures lined up on a stylized prow, representing personalities from the 15th and 16th centuries following Prince Henry -- only one of them is a woman, Queen Filipa de Lencastre, who was Prince Henry’s mother.

    The prince is the tallest figure, measuring 9m, while those behind him are 7m tall. It stands on the waterfront, close to the Belém Tower, from where many of the explorers’ ships departed for their voyages.

    The pavement surrounding the monument is a marble map inside a compass rose and was a gift from the nation of South Africa, recalling Portugal’s rounding of the Cape of Good Hope, which led to a new sea route to the East. The map shows the routes and dates of the Portuguese voyages, which essentially covered the entire globe. Surrounding the map and the compass rose is a traditional Portuguese wave-patterned cobblestone pavement.
    En savoir plus

  • Belem tower

    30 avril 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Built between 1514-1520 during the reign of King Manuel (and the height of the Portuguese Renaissance) by Portuguese architect and sculptor Francisco de Arruda, Belém Tower celebrated the expedition to India of Vasco da Gama, the famous Portuguese explorer. It is considered one of the best examples of the architecture of its time, known as the Manuelino style, but it also includes distinctive Moorish features such as ornately decorated turrets.

    The Tower served as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon, as well as being used to defend the city.

    (Around 1655, the Tower also functioned as a customs control point and for navigation along the Tagus. Vessels were obliged to pay a tax as they entered the harbour,
    En savoir plus

  • História do Bacalhau

    30 avril 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Final stop of the day! It was a push to add in this Museum of Cod and we were rather tired as it was a prolonged wait for both buses to take us back to the centre of town. It seemed the museum had been done by the same folks as the Story of Lisbon, very entertaining and easy to absorb the information. They even had a room which was a "ride" where you could sit in a dory, it simulated a cold temperature and the rocking of the boat in the north atlantic seas. To think these men worked like slaves solo for 10 hours each day in these tiny wooden boats to catch cod and bring it back to the mother ship - for months at a time.
    Homeward bound for our last night in Alfama, one more dinner to soak up the atmosphere, we had baked Portuguese sausages with onions and carrots, the last of the Calem Tawny Port and chocolate. It's going to be hard not to be gaining weight on this trip!
    En savoir plus

  • Day 9 Overview

    30 avril 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Bought makings for breakfast and lunches; some challenges using the stove but by the end had figured it out - why are European appliances so difficult to understand? The baked good is called "Queque" pronounced "cake" and our bakery told us that it is what Portuguese usually have along with a coffee for breakfast. This one was a mildly sweet orange one, basically a rich muffin - likely no fibre!

    Home for our last night in Alfama, one more dinner to soak up the atmosphere, we had baked Portuguese sausages with onions and carrots, the last of the Calem Tawny Port and chocolate. It's going to be hard not to be gaining weight on this trip!

    Bus across town to Belem. Pleasantly warm day, and by using the bus a bit, a total of 14,745 steps.
    En savoir plus

  • Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (Not!)

    1 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Doug wanted to be out the door at 8 am to squeeze this art museum in before we left. Actually arrived 45 minutes early into a modern area of town which was largely residential, nice flats. Gave us time to walk the gardens around the museum and the acreage includes an amphitheater, café and they are building a very deluxe looking museum of modern art behind the existing buildings. 10 am and What!! not open. Then the sign..... Lesson learned, check opening times night before just in case anything has changed....or you've missed the fine print. May 1 is Labor Day in Portugal, many places are not open. The restaurant we went to end of day was very busy as a result and one of the waiters commented there are too many closing days in Portugal when you add all the holidays related to Saints. We've had two holidays since our arrival 10 days ago (Freedom or Liberation Day and now Labour Day)!

    Oh well .. found a coffee shop om the way to the bus station with great WiFi and did some journaling.
    En savoir plus

  • Algarve arrival

    1 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Relaxing trip by Mercedes Bus to the district of Lagoa in the south east of the country and into the town of Carvoerio. The Algarve is primarily known for its sun and sand and there are many choices along its coast. We picked this town primarily for its board walk lying on high cliffs with vistas rather than a sand beach. Modern flats, probably a fair amount of them 2nd homes at the outskirts and coming into town a touristy main area and to our hotel Mirachoro. Looked quite nice entering, warm welcome and it is well maintained; all is clean, good bed and linens. However it is a throw back to the early 80s and most would say it needs a reno to bring the furniture and decorating into this century. Restaurant recommended this restaurant, very reasonable prices, I got to try the grilled sardines and Doug had Peri Peri Chicken. These sardines may have been frozen as the sardine season runs late May to October but they are classic, like Bacalhou au Bras so must try! Doug said he should have ordered a whole bottle of wine instead of our usual 1/2 bottle to help pass the time and entertainment he had watching me dissect these fish! He did help by finding two YouTube videos on how to do this efficiently which I reviewed during the meal. Tasty, a bit dry but enjoyed....and no you don't eat the insides, just the meaty part of the fish.En savoir plus

  • Algar Seco

    2 mai 2023, Portugal

    Limestone rock formations, in which you can see shells embedded, shaped by water infiltrations streams from the surface and then threw the rocks to the sea plus the sea itself. Lovely board walk to enjoy the views. If we had a longer and it was a calm day, would take the "cave tour" (30E) to the grotto nearby but we got down by steps to very close to the waters edge. The restaurant down below with its charcoal grill would have been nice to try had we had another day.

    One kilometer east of the Carvoreiro are the impressive rock formations of Algar Seco. A boardwalk runs across the top of the cliffs from the town. Steps cut into the dusty cliff lead down to a series of dramatic overhangs above blow holes and grottoes.
    En savoir plus

  • Carvoreiro

    2 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Glad we picked this spot along the Algarve, after the big cities of Porto and Lisbon it was very nice to come to this smaller town.

    Carvoeiro was an Algarve fishing village but now a tourist hot spot. It is five kilometers south of Lagoa where our bus came in. It is built into steep red sea cliffs, and backed by hills with a picturesque cove and a sandy and sheltered beach, .

    The name is thought to derive from 'Caboiere', the old word for an Islamic-Medieval hamlet of fishermen.
    En savoir plus

  • Day 11

    2 mai 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Our day of rest is at the quarter way mark into our trip and we came upon this very pleasant looking resort and were able to enjoy the views over lunch (excellent calarmari; thinking of John). Overlooking the bay was a very lovely little chapel.

    Breakfast then a walk to town and back was only 7,880 steps.
    En savoir plus

  • Seville Arrival

    3 mai 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We were too early for a repeat of the lovely breakfast buffet so got the "typico" one slice of ham and white cheese on white bread as a packed meal. Getting tired of these! Our Uber Driver took us to Portomaio where he has returned after a difficulty time in London trying to establish a barber shop when COVID hit. It is the town that suits him best along the Algarve, he avoids Albufeira as it is "too rowdy, always trouble" (where Mom and Dad stayed years ago). We drove through the outskirts of Albufeira, Faro and the last stop was Tavira. Then two hours onto Seville. The landscape quickly changed from the rocky hills of the Algarve to more undulating wheat fields, green houses, olive and orange groves.

    Found our place waiting only a few moments for the daughter of the owner who runs a nearby Pension (may of these, room only, no other facilities) to come and let us in to a very pleasant apartment. Although it faces the busy Avenida de Menendez Pelayo it is very quiet in the bedroom and the aircon works well. Grocery chain called Mas nearby, has a good selection, we got together a few things for a quick dinner as Doug had made a reservation for us to learn about the evolution of Flamenco.
    En savoir plus

  • Museo del Balle Flamenco

    3 mai 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    The museum takes about 40 minutes to go through and is actually a bit confusing as they have both a show going on in the background and various video images that often seem to collide so you are not sure what you are to focus on. The show was fully sold out and very good and we came away with some basic knowledge: It was originally a folk dance of the lower classes derived from a convergence of cultures: Arabic, Greek, African and Oriental. It then developed into subtypes and was popularized by the founder of the museum and movies. The wonderful Spanish guitar and the combination of highly stylized hand and limb movements interspersed with incredibly energetic "tap" dancing is highly entertaining.En savoir plus

  • Basilica de la Macarena

    4 mai 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This is a very beautiful church and when we entered a service was in progress so that added a memorable element. It is in modern use, well cared for, and tourists are welcome, it is the first that we saw a tap credit card machine for a donation and it had a gift store and Nancy bought a small item there (necklace pendant).

    Basílica de la Macarena is in one of the most authentic working-class districts of Seville (Macarena) and is very popular with the locals. Next to the basilica is the Arco de la Macarena. This arch is a remnant of the fortress wall from the time of the Almohad dynasty (12th century), and was at that time the city gate for the king, heading towards the Royal Palace of Seville.

    It is a neo-Baroque church building that was built recently (1949) in honor of the virgin Mary 'La Virgen de la Esperanza Macarena'. The statue of the Virgin is surrounded by ornate, gold, silver and jeweled retable, above the great altar of the Basilica. The Madonna statue is one of the most famous procession figures of Seville, thanks to its beauty and decorative, sumptuous robes, golden crown, and diamond tears and emeralds donated by one of Spain's most famous bullfighters.
    En savoir plus

  • Alameda de Hercules

    4 mai 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The Alameda de Hércules is a garden square or mall built in 1574, originally as a promenaded public garden, named after the eight rows of white poplar trees (álamos in Spanish) that fill its central part. It was the oldest public garden in Spain and Europe.

    Before its transformation, the square was a swampy pond.In 1574, the Count of Barajas drained the water, building irrigation channels and fountains, and planting lines of waterside white poplar trees. Two sculptures were placed atop the two southern columns: Hercules (mythological founder of Seville) and Julius Caesar (referred to as the restorer of the city during Roman rule). In the second half of the eighteenth century, two additional statues of lions with shields, representing Seville and Spain, were placed on the northern columns.

    The Alameda began to suffer a progressive deterioration, and became one of the poorest neighbourhoods of Seville, troubled by prostitution and drugs. A slow recovery began during the early 21st century, then public redevelopment funded by the city council totally renewed La Alameda in 2006-2008.
    En savoir plus

  • Setas de Sevilla

    4 mai 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We sat and admired this recently built structure, the Metropol Parasol, while we tried churros with chocolate sauce (dip the churro in) and our morning coffee break. Structure was amazing, churros we suspect should be a lot better!

    Popularly known as the Setas de la Encarnación, is the largest wooden structure in the world and is located in the central Plaza de la Encarnación .

    It has dimensions of 150 x 70m and a height of approximately 26m, and was the winning project of the competition opened by the City Council of Seville to carry out the rehabilitation of the square in which it is located; its designer was the Berlin architect Jürgen Mayer. The structure consists of six large mushroom-shaped parasols, whose design is inspired by the vaults of the cathedral of Seville and the ficus trees of the nearby Plaza del Cristo de Burgos.

    We just viewed from the ground, but it has five levels. The upper level houses a lookout plaza and a panoramic path on platforms that runs through most of the site. Inside the central parasols, at a height of 22 meters, there is a tapas restaurant and a space for events. At ground level is the Mercado de la Encarnación, along with retail and restaurant space. Finally, the basement houses the Antiquarium museum, which exhibits the archaeological remains found on the site.
    En savoir plus

  • Iglesia Colegial del Salvador

    4 mai 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Doug was pleased that his on line ticket purchase for Seville's Cathedral included this church. It is very well cared for, in use currently and set up for visiting tourists including clear English descriptions of the content of each of the chapels. These chapels are among the nicest we have seen and the highlight of the visit.

    This baroque church was built between 1674 and 1712 on the site of Muslim Ishbiliya's main mosque. It has a Mannerist red-brick façade. Inside it is an absolutely stunning cavernous, light-filled interior crowned by a soaring dome and filled with extravagant gold altarpieces. Particularly breathtaking is the retablo behind the main altar, a 21m-high composition crafted by the Portuguese artist Cayetano de Acosta between 1770 and 1779.
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  • Casa de Pilatos

    4 mai 2023, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After lunch we went to see what Doug indicated was the first "Andalucian Style" palace. We arrived just in time for the English guided tour which included the upper level which was furnished with personal belongings of the family (including an extensive collection of ornamental pigs!). The lower levels consist of empty tiled rooms and that no doubt were filled at one time. We were told that the tapestries in the upper levels help keep the rooms warm in the winter and the tiles kept the rooms cool in the summer and the family would move between levels with the seasonal change. There were numerous interesting comments made during the tour although we could not always understand our guide due to her Spanish accent. For example, there was one painting showing a woman using a fan, there was a non verbal language between men and women involving the fan. For example, interest could be expressed yes or no about meeting up; if a woman wanted to meet at 3:30 she would tap her right shoulder 3 times and the left once. If a man was engaged he would hold his hat a certain way. As she said it was "the old Facebook"! The gardens were special, both beautiful and had an "old world charm" that you can not replicate without many years going by. Everywhere we look, people make use of even 12 inches of balcony space and that is their outdoors. Upper floor patios are well planted (pots) and covered. After our visit, Nancy bought a Seville Christmas ornament tile as a souvenir.

    Casa de Pilatos was built in the 16th century by order of Don Pedro Enriquez and later by his son Fadrique Enriques de Ribera. This is the most beautiful palace in Seville, after the Alcazar, and it is one of the most best-preserved buildings from the 16th century. The "House of Pilatos" is named after the house of Pontius Pilate, by whom Fadrique Enriques de Ribera was inspired during his pilgrimage to Jerusalem.

    Different styles were combined in the construction of this palace, such as Gothic, Mudéjar and Italian Renaissance styles. The Casa de Pilatos has a beautifully decorated patio with a well and fountain. The palace has many marble columns and floors, long corridors, ceiling paintings, large wooden doors, mudéjar tiles (Azulejos), chapels and especially a beautiful and colourful palace garden in Italian style.

    Nowadays, this palace is still partly inhabited and is the residence of the 18th Duchess of Medinacelli and her family.
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  • Plaza Espana and Maria Luisa Park

    4 mai 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After dinner at home, we took lovely walk up our street to this large park where the Plaza de Espana is located....it is amazingly large as is the park. We barely touched the inviting pathways with the islands of green and flowering trees (many bluish/purple ones) and palms. It was turning dark so we had to leave but as we left, about 10 horses and carriages carrying tourists clip clopped by, a contrast to the busy road with its tapas bars in full swing that we walked by on the way home.

    Plaza de España was built for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929
    This is a larger than expected semi-circular brick building, Renaissance/neo-Moorish in style, with a tower at either end (tall enough to be visible around the city). In front of the building, following the curve of its façade, is a 500-metre canal crossed by four bridges, and in the centre of it all is the Plaza itself.

    All along the wall by the canal are 48 alcoves with benches, one for each province of Spain, each with a relevant tableau and map, all designed on colourful azulejos (painted ceramic tiles). The four bridges represent the four ancient kingdoms of Spain: Castille, Aragon, Navarre and Leon.
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  • Day 13 Overview

    4 mai 2023, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Started with bus ride then a morning walk, stopped for lunch (sangria and beer, the charcuterie plate was sausage heavy :( and we decided Iberian Ham (pigs that only eat acorns imparting a special quality) is not worth the hype in our humble opinion; had dinner at home and an evening walk. Pleasant weather so the 15,500 steps were goodEn savoir plus

  • Real Alcazar

    5 mai 2023, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We were off to an early to the Royal Alcazar, Seville’s Royal Palace was originally a Moorish fort built in the 10th century by the first Caliph of Andalucía. Quite a lot of people but this place is huge so it sops them up. we were booked for tour of the upper floor apartments which are currently used by the current monarchs when they are in town/wanting to use it. We were allowed in with a small group and a security guard after undergoing basic screening and putting our backpacks in a locker. It really is an amazing place, Although the Moors mosque was destroyed and the palace built, the detailing is very much from the Arabic world with intricate lacy carvings and a lot of tiling. There was a history of the evolution of tile and porcelain and the interaction between the style and colouration of china between cultures eg Spanish, Oriental, Netherlands (evolution of Delft, always attempting to replicate the fine porcelains of the Orient). Gardens very large and beautiful, years in the making, impossible to capture the castle and gardens in pictures.

    The construction of the current Royal Alcázar began in the 14th century. It is the best example of Mudejar architectural style in Spain, although Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements can be found as well..

    The site was initially a Roman settlement, later used by the Visigoths. In 712 Seville was conquered by the Arabs, who transformed the building in a palace-fortress. When Fernando III of Castile regained the city in 1248, the Alcázar became the Royal Palace. His son, Alfonso X, initiated the first works and ordered the construction of the Gothic Palace.

    Later on, in 1364, Pedro I of Castile, decided to build the Mudejar Palace, definitely the best building of this architectural style in Spain. It’s characterized by being a mixture between Muslim and Christian elements, resulting in a unique design that can be found only in Spain and, to a minor extent, in Portugal.

    The Alcázar has been used in many occasions by the Kings of Spain. Even Juan Carlos I, used it in 1995 for the reception and wedding dinner of his eldest daughter, Elena.
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