SW Europe 2023

Chilly start to the day - out of our apartment at 0630 hrs before the sun came up. Early morning train from Atocha to Toledo then a short bus ride to the centre of town at the Zocodover Square. Very impressive town on a hill. Rather cold and not much activity going on yet as most tourist things open at 10 am; found a cafe and warmed up with a coffee and then enjoyed the narrow streets; wondering what the burgundy banners were in celebration of. Very different feel from Cordoba where the stone roads are made of rocks placed in a pattern to give the impression of a woven rug. Here, it is cobbled and for the first time we see concrete poured over them in places. No more palm trees; much more of a northern feel to things. Noticeable also are many stores selling knives and metal armory.

Toledo is a very historically significant city. With over 2000 years of history, historians have often referred to it as the City of Three Cultures; a label which refers to the Islamic, Christian and Jewish cultures that united and intermingled within its borders, with each group adding their own stamp on the city’s history and traditions. The origins of Toledo can officially be traced back to Roman times when it was an important Celtiberian city and urban center. Evidence of the city’s existence in this era includes the ruins of an enormous circus, the remains of a water supply system within the dam wall, and the ruins of the aqueduct across the Tagus River. Following the fall of the Roman Empire, Toledo was conquered first by Northern European barbarians in the 5th century AD, and later by the Visigoths in the 6th century, who moved their court to the city.

Following the city’s conversion to Catholicism (from Arianism), which occurred in the latter part of the 6th century under the Visigoth king, Recaredo, Toledo became the religious and political capital of Hispania. It was during this era that the Councils of Toledo took place—assemblies with political, legislative and religious functions. In the year 712 AD, the same year in which the Jewish presence in the city became known, Toledo was conquered by the Moors. A Muslim group of people, they would dominate the city for only 373 years, but their influence on Toledo’s architecture was monumental and is still palpable today. In the year 1085, Toledo was retaken, without bloodshed, by the Christians under Alfonso VI. Many of the Muslim inhabitants decided to stay with the Christians and Jews, however, the latter having prospered during the Muslim period. This convergence and relative harmony between the three cultures, which continued until the 15th century, helped shape Toledo’s identity—an identity that is still evident today. In 1492, under the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, the Jews were expelled from Toledo, a decision that deeply affected the social structure of Toledo. When Charles V was crowned in 1519, Toledo became the most important city in the world, known as the Imperial Capital. The period of political decline that followed this era was severe; so severe that in 1561 King Philip II decided to move the court permanently to Madrid. This was devastating to the city from an economical perspective, but fortunately it had very little effect on the city’s religious, cultural and artistic aspects. It was in this period, in fact, that the famed painter, El Greco, Toledo’s most famous resident, decide to settle here.

Toledo was named a World Heritage Site by the United Nations, due largely to its concentration and wide variety of historical monuments, most of which are religious in nature and demonstrate the city’s diversity over the centuries.もっと詳しく

We decided out of the list of possibilities in Toledo to take in this home to "El Greco" as he is a painter of the early 1600s who was unconventional for his time (Picasso was inspired by him), with quite a collection at the Prado and it was interesting to see the inside of a home from that period. Entry was free for seniors and it ended up being more extensive and informative than we had anticipated.

This museum has an extensive collection of paintings by this Mannerist artist of the Spanish Golden Age. The museum first opened in 1911 and is located in the Jewish Quarter of Toledo. It consists of two buildings, a 16th-century house with a courtyard and an early 20th century building forming the museum, together with a garden. The house recreates the home of El Greco, which no longer exists. The museum houses many artworks by El Greco, especially from his late period. There are also paintings by other 17th-century Spanish artists, as well as furniture from the period and potteryもっと詳しく