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Rob’s Rambles ‘23
  • Robin McConchie
May – Jul 2023

Rob’s Rambles ‘23

Adventuring through Portugal and northern Spain. Starting in Madeira, onto Lisbon, Porto and the Portuguese Coastal Camino, then across northern Spain Read more
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  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler

    Óbidos

    May 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Obidos - a walled town. Highlights of
    the day were making it by bus and train to Obidos, walking the wall, a yummy Portuguese tart and decent coffee, and meeting Luis Filipe in his unique shop and museum. Celts, Romans, Visigoths and the Moors have held this walled village on a hilltop an hour north of Lisbon. The Portuguese first king, Alfonso kicked out the Moors in 12th century. In 1775 ‘The Earthquake’, which devastated Lisbon, took its toll. Two centuries later it was the centre for the Carnation Revolution which ousted The dictator Salazar. Today it’s a tourist hotspot, (ahhh) but the walk around the walls is great, even tho I am afraid of heights. Celebrated with a delicious coffee and runny Portuguese tart. Yum. Luis Filipe is a farmer, shop keeper and organic wine maker. His collection of goodies includes tiles made by children in trouble, condiments-I bought pumpkin and ginger chutney-and old shop stuff. I have included pics of ‘my house’ recommended by Chloe McConchie, it is fantastic straight out if last century🙂👍👍Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Obidos evening

    May 26, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Obidos by evening is a new town. I know the community depends on tourism but it is so much nicer without us. I love Casa d S. Thiago dos Castello just below the castle, the tiled walls, tapestries and tiny sitting rooms are delight. The bedroom and bathroom are from another time. Met some fun Americans and had a delicious grilled sea bream at a great restaurant, no Aussie wine to be seen!. Wandered into a delightful art shop and the girls were terrific. The castle is lit by night and the town is quiet.Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler

    Coimbra - from Fado to footy

    May 27, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Coimbra- Another day of totally new experiences. One of those is seriously discounted train and bus fares and entry to some museums for us oldies. I caught the train ( with my discount) to Coimbra, an old university town once the capital of Portugal. It has a feeling of solidness and I like it. My hotel, The Luggage is gorgeous and fantastically located, not far from the uni and the old city. Walking to my Fado experience I came across uni students singing, then on the way home had tea with the local footy fans in the market and their team Sagres won the finals. The town has gone nuts. Horns, firecrackers, dancing and drinking.Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Coimbra celebrates

    May 27, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Just wandering home from town and I found a market, dinner and hundreds of footy fans glued to the big screen. The Lisbon team, Sagres won a major final and the town has gone nuts. They are in the gardens below the Luggage singing, dancing, honking horns, driving the streets and setting off firecrackers everywhere . Thought I’d add a few pics from my window and memories if ObidosRead more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Coimbra- Velha Universidade

    May 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Coimbra was great but wet! A fantastic old university town with centuries of history and a magnificent botanic gardens. Overnite the football celebrations continued til at least 4am and I had a great view of the fans and Coimbra Prison from my bedroom balcony. After breakfast it was time to wander! Housed in the Royal Palace, Biblioteca Joanina was built in 1717 by Dom Jao V ( looks like Henry V111) Containing 200,000 books dating back to the 12th century it is awe inspiring. Baroque in style with frescoed ceilings and fantastically carved wood panelling. St Michael’s Chapel organ is massive and seems to hang from the wall. The Main Hall in the Royal Palace is like Hogwarts dining room. Reckon the whole place inspired JK Rowling. The Se cathedral and cloisters were beautiful. Tiles are everywhere and I particularly like the 13th century image of angry sheep!! A pity it was too damp to spend hours in the gardens. Caught the train to Porto, met a nice American with a rescue dog Fina, which bit me !! So I finally get to use a bit of my medical kit and am sitting back in my hotel thinking about the next leg of the trip… ‘singing in the rain’.Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Porto

    May 29, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Porto- I love a god market and Bulhao farmers market did not disappoint, cherries are in season and nanas from Madeira. Cruised thru the Se Cathedral and the catacombs in the Igreja d S. Francisca. Discovered there is a kind of train strike tomorrow, requiring a major change of plans, but the boys at S Benato were really helpful.. going on a cruise on the Douro instead. Chatted with street artists, who are painting electric boxes. Generally had a great day🙂 Bought a new SIM card so won’t run out of data on the walk. Think I can just use GPS any advice???

    I didn’t really have a fixed plan today but the day evolved and the hotel is in an unbelievable great spot on Santa Catarina st, a mall.

    It was a total fluke I heard there might be a train strike, tomorrow, so I went to the train station and the ticket man organised refunds, he could get me upaqwasdfghjmy along ththen managed to get on a cruise🤞🤞it doesn’t pour with rain I could get up the river but not back. I am looking forward to editing up my fourth podcast… so far women in- sardines, wool, guitars and the latest- street art. The Portuguese are incredibly talented with art, design, fashion, multimedia ❤️❤️    Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Douro River Cruise

    May 30, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Cruising the famous Douro River was on my bucket list for this trip and it lived up to expectations. Our cruise boat carrying 200 people glided up the river and passed through three lochs. In each loch, the boat was raised 30 metres! The river is deep, wide and green and passes through country that has been farmed for centuries. The valley walls are steep and villages perched on the hillside. Pinhao is home to some of the most famous Port wine vineyards and the vines are perfectly manicured on rocky terraces. I spoke with Polish, East German, Madeiran and Brazilian travellers. I was lucky to do the trip as there was a train strike and my original plans had to be chucked🤞🤞🤞luck stays my way.Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Day One Potuguese Camino

    May 31, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    43,000 steps👍🇵🇹
    Day #ONE on the Portuguese Coastal Camino. Metro to Matosinhos then walk to Povoa Varzim…. 43,000 steps ….28km. 👍🤞❤️🤞❤️🇵🇹. Great board walk, and really well signposted. Went thru some great little fishing villages. Restaurants dot the coastline. There is a real effort to rehabilitate sand dunes and protect migratory seabirds.
    All went well til Greg, my walking buddy for the afternoon took a bit of a diversion trying to find the hotel, then I discovered I was staying elsewhere!!! So an extra few kilometres!
    Coastal walk and the beaches are gorgeous but the last 8km was very urban and you really had to look out for Camino directions.
    I went looking for dinner, spotted a nice restaurant and hit the jackpot. Food was free as they were celebrating first anniversary of the business. Best and biggest prawns I have ever eaten. Gorgeous sunset.    Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler

    Povoa De Varzim-Esposende #2

    June 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Day #2 According to my itinerary today was an average day with respect to a distance of 20 km 27, 300 steps. We walked along the coast then through ‘greenhouse’ country, a bit of bush with lots of eucalypts , into Fao ( good coffee) crossed a river and along the sea front to a lovely quiet hitel in Esposende. A highlight was a superb mural ‘Women of the sea etched in concrete.
    It isn’t very busy on the track but I reckon in a month it’ll liven up. Met an ‘octapussy’ fisherman, got passed by cyclist and a motorised kite! Loving the hydrangeas, fishing boats and villages    Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler

    How far mum?

    June 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Sometimes it can be a bit confusing how far you have to go to get to Santiago. All these signs seen today, scratching my head a bit!

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler

    Esposende Day #2

    June 1, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Day #2 According to my itinerary today was an average day with respect to a distance of 20 km 27, 300 steps. We walked along the coast then through ‘greenhouse’ country, a bit of bush with lots of eucalypts , into Fao ( good coffee) crossed a river and along the sea front to a lovely quiet hitel in Esposende. A highlight was a superb mural ‘Women of the sea etched in concrete.
    It isn’t very busy on the track but I reckon in a month it’ll liven up. Met an ‘octapussy’ fisherman, got passed by cyclist and a motorised kite! Loving the hydrangeas, fishing boats and villages    Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Esposende-Viana do Castelo #3

    June 2, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    #3Camino. Esposende-Viana do Castelo.I have huge respect for anyone doing the Camino , especially those who lug a pack each day. We did 26km-35,000 steps and it wasn’t easy going, cobblestones, sand, roots, rocks. In the bush section it was just like home.. the eucalyptus invasion is reality. Saw my first cork trees in the paddock. I’ve met great people German, Czech, Dutch, US…friendly, fun and all working hard to achieve their goal. 👍👍👍👍Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Love Viana Do Castelo #3

    June 2, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    On the Camino you enter Viana Do Castela the by walking across the Eiffel Bridge, designed by Mr Eiffel of Eiffel Tower in Paris fame and built in 1878. As I wandered through the old town I came upon a girl dressed as a cow and Umbrella St- good stuff! The hotel is in a great location near the 19th century train station which has survived the test of time. I decided to go easy on myself and caught a cab to Santa Luzia, one of Portugal’s most emblematic monuments… way up on the hill behind the city, the view is sensational and the church interior simple and superb. I walked down 600 steps (which is why I caught the cab up!) and back to the hotel.
    Feeling pleasantly tired after 70+ km in three days!    Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler

    Castelo-Ancora #4

    June 3, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    #4 a really enjoyable 19 km walk along winding lanes from Viana do Castelo to Vila Praia da Ancora. You have to keep a watchful eye for directions 🙂🙂🙂. Away from the coast we worked our way through incredibly quiet villages wondering if anyone was behind the stone walls. I met a ‘lord’ whose family was granted honours defending the king against the Moors and had held the family crest for six centuries. Lots of great gardens, the odd cow and an entrepreneurial couple who set up the best cafe in their garden. Mild weather great for walking, doing my washing and even have an electric jug in my room!!!Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    From Portugal to Spain #5

    June 4, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Last day in Portugal, saw an easy walk along the coast, past many vegie gardens arriving at Caminha and the great Rio Minho. I was blown away by the size of the tomatoes and cherries in the local mercado. Then after quick visit to the church to try for a pilgrim stamp we headed to the water taxi. For just six Euros we crossed the mighty Rio Minho leaving Portugal and landing in Galacia, Spain. What a hoot and no passport control! It blew my mind.Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler

    Caminah- La Guardia, pre-Roman village #

    June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    A Guarda / La Guardia 🇪🇸, where Spain, Portugal and the Atlantic meet. The view from near the top of Monte Santa Trega/Tecla is fantastic and worth the long climb. The site is famous for the reconstruction of a pre-Roman village 600 BC. 100 thatched huts in the village were enclosed by rock walls. The extra climb I didn’t do is of the ‘12 stations of the cross’
    We had tea by the port, what a great spot and a good feel about the place.    Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Oia #6

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    #6camino an easy walk along the Atlantic coast. Incredibly peaceful and only a slight breeze. After a catch-up coffee with US and Hungarian walkers we arrived in the fishing village of Oia with its historic Monastery of Santa Marta de Oia. Our home Puerta Casa is delightful and there is an amazing restaurant on the waterfront. I am writing this from our ‘secret garden’ by the sea. I loved meeting up with my border collie friends from Hungary, Pancake and Pressa🐾🐾❤️🇵🇹Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Oia-Baiona #7camino

    June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    #7camino Oia to Baiona 19 km. I love this coastline! Sad to leave Casa Puertas behind but on we must go and it was a perfect day for walking. Ahead was always the Lighthouse of Cabo Silleiro, the main point of navigation for ships sailing along the Ria de Vigo. We walked over a pass and down into the fishing town of Baiona. It has the amazing 12th century Castle of Monte Real, which is a luxury hotel but you can walk right round and the view of the coast and islands is wonderful.Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    A day off #camino

    June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    #7camino Having a day off walking and after overnight rain I am hoping weather will be ok for the next part of my Camino. Baiona is a lively little port and a walk around the castle takes you to tiny beaches and provides great views of the Islas Cies. Baiona is famous because it was the first place to hear of the ‘discovery’ of the New World on March 1, 1493 and a replica of Columbus’s Pinta is in the harbour.
    PS I have solved my coffee dilemma.. large espresso +a little milk. I am trying to do a bit of planning for Barcelona, later in the month so any tips appreciated!🙂    Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler

    Sunshine and downpours #8

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    #8camino Baiona to Vigo .. a big day 41,174 steps, according to the app on apple, or about 28 km. An up and down day with intermittent downpours and sunshine, ending with torrential rain, lightening and thunder! My 4 Euro brolly is my best investment yet!!!
    Walked with George from Germany and had great conversations about life, community, culture. It was his second Camino and he found the experience quite spiritual and rewarding. He is staying in hostels, doesn’t prebook and tries to do 18-20 km a day , carrying 10kg and staying in small villages !!!… this is the way to go. Met some Americans with worst blisters yet. Was torn between hating the eucalypt invasion and feeling at home among the gum trees!! Treated myself to a luxurious bath when I arrived drenched and am glad my luggage is carried and my hotels booked !!!!!!    Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Vigo-Arcade #9

    June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    #9camino Vigo to Arcade. All up it was a big day with 43,499 steps! It can be a bit of a challenge finding your way through a city, it is such a relief when you spot your first yellow arrow or Camino scallop shell! Today I loved the ‘rooms with a view’, then couldn’t believe the number of mussel farms on the Ria Vigo. I am allergic to mussels and the other night ordered scallops and suddenly realised I might be allergic to them too… Irene, a Ukrainian woman asked how old I was, when I told her she said… ‘oh it doesn’t matter if you die’… I nearly killed myself laughing! We all got drenched today and fell into the cafes in Redondela, then marched on our way only to be stopped a funeral procession. (Seems to be a theme😂) wandering on I had a great chat with Patricia an Occupational Therapist from Portugal about improving the lives of people with dementia/Alzheimers. Her mission on the Camino is to make a greater commitment to herself. I haven’t found my mission yet, but will bring you her story. Had a ball winding my way round the back streets of Arcade, which has a wonderful old arched bridge. And check ot the passionfruit vine.Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler

    Arcade-Pontevedra #10

    June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Just 13 km today and less than 70 km to Santiago de Compostela. Rain made the track muddy and slippery in parts and I didn’t even cyclists climbing some of the really rocky parts of the track. Had a really good walk with Livu from the Algarve. We walked for three hours and only exchanged names after he headed on for another 10km after we had coffee. Covid and lockdown took a toll on his marriage and he is searching for a new path. But reckons the Camino gives him a chance not to think. Our conversation lightened up when I took his picture next to a tree and suggested he could use it for his tinder profile !!! We parted in good terms. Pontevedra is on the Rio Lérez and is a bustling city, but quieter than Porto. Big churches, lots of squares, not too touristy and a beaut market.Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler
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    Caldas de Reis, nearly there- #11

    June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    #11camino, 20 km to Caldas de Reis today, and just 45km from Santiago de Compostela.
    Walked and talked with Damien for 20km. I think he might have had a map, but he certainly had a brolly! A good Irish Catholic and retired maths teacher who had strong views on everything, most of which were counter to my views. So it was fun! He variously called me a sex-pot, an old bag and said he’d tell the cafe owner I was his aunt, so he could get a discount.
    Highlight came when I met Nicole and Dick from Holland who are walking pushing four dogs all the way from Porto to Santiago de Compostela.
    We are nearly there, two sleeps and 45km to go.
    Ps does anyone know what kind of passion fruit this is… I just ate some    Read more

  • Robin McConchieRob’s Rambles ‘23Traveler

    Padron #12

    June 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    #12camino Thinking of mum today, it is her birthday, XII.VI.MCMXVI. Friendship and her love of art were important to mum. She got into the NGV art school, but her dad said there was no future in art and so she did dentistry. But art was sacrosanct and as kids we respected that. My friends thought of her as the ‘fun mum’. In the end her greatest comfort came from a dog-eared copy of Christopher Robin, which she could recite thru the cloud of alzheimers and macular degeneration as I read.
    To the Camino, an easy 20 km walk, no bikes and the pilgrims spaced-out beautifully. Didn’t talk much and accelerated when I could understand the conversations. Really tried to focus on mindfulness and my immediate surrounds.
    Padrón IS the cradle of the “Xacobeo” (Way of St James)
    Padrón is closely linked to the Way of St. James and the Apostle James. According to tradition, it was in this region that St. James the Greater preached the Good News. Due to this, after he died in Jaffa, Palestine, his body was brought here by two of his disciples, Theodore and Athanasius. After a long voyage accompanying the Apostle’s body, they came to the Port of Murgadán, Iria Flava, where they moored their boat to a Roman altar stone in the Sar River. The stone, which is called the “Pedrón,” is now located under the main altar of the Church of Santiago, in the municipality of Padrón. Padrón thereby became the “Cradle of the Way of St. James,”
    The medieval town of Padrón was established at a crossroads, a pilgrimage site in the Middleages.
    Had a lovely wander round the old town and climbed Monte Santiago. Beautiful shady trees in Bot gardens and pink sunset.
    I think it is going to rain tomorrow for the last leg, hope it doesn’t.    Read more

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