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Quebec Road Trip

September - October 2023
Driving trip with Gail and Marie to Montreal, Quebec City, Gaspe Peninsula, Vermont and New Hampshire Read more
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  • TravelerQuebec Road Trip

    Getting Ready

    September 22, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Gail, Marie and I leave Saturday for a two-week driving adventure in Quebec, Canada. We'll visit Montreal, Quebec City, the Gaspe Peninsula, Vermont (if they let us in), and New Hampshire. I'll try to post a footprint daily with the highlights.Read more

  • TravelerQuebec Road Trip
    Day 1

    Day 1

    September 23, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Off to an early start in rain – first rain in well over a week. Headed north on I-81 into PA. The rain gradually cleared as we drove and we ran out of it before crossing into New York. Stayed on 81 (even though the GPS wanted to take us over along the Hudson). Crossed into Canada on the bridge over the Saint Lawrence about 14:30 above Watertown and turned east. For a little scenic relief, we turned off the freeway onto C2 at Brockville and followed the river for a while – some impressive Victorian homes alng the way and views of the river.

    Back onto the freeway (C401) and over to Montreal in time to catch congested traffic caused by construction but the GPS faithfully led us to the Hampton Inn downtown. The Inn is at the edge of Chinatown and only blocks away from the Old Town. Checked in and dropped our bags. As dark fell, we ventured into Chinatown searching for dinner. Only steps away from the hotel, we came upon the Qing Hua Dumpling place, which Marie had identified as one to check out from her reading of the guidebook. It being Saturday night, many places had lines out front but the line at Qing Hua was short. The austere place serves almost nothing but dumplings (in French: Ravioli Chinois -Chinese ravioli) – 40+ different flavors, steamed or fried. Each order is 15 dumplings. I’d had dumplings a few times but not since our time in Australia. They put a bottle of tap water on the table and some paper cups. We ordered the chef’s assortment and an order of shrimp dumplings. They were great! The place was packed, with new people immediately replacing those who finished and left. We walked a few blocks of the neighborhood then headed toward Old Town. Rested at a small park with a collection of white sculptures then returned to the hotel. It’d been a long day with an early start, so we called it a night.

    Quebec, as you probably know, is the French-speaking province of the country. In Ottawa, where we entered, the road signs and billboards are in English with French subtext. Cross the provincial border and that reverses. The guidebook says in Montreal, one can get by in English; in Quebec, one might get by with some effort (and kind understanding of the suffering Quebecois; in the countryside, one better know at least some French. We’ll be testing that idea as we head to Quebec City and then on around the Gaspe Peninsula.    Read more

  • TravelerQuebec Road Trip
    1
    Day 2

    Day 2 - Seeing Montreal

    September 24, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    A full day of visiting Montreal (and it’s only 17:30). Breakfast at the hotel – it is a Hampton, after all. Walked over to the Basilica Notre Dame de Montreal in Old Montreal – a ten-minute jaunt – past the statue of Montreal’s founder, Paul de Chomedey de Maisonnueve, in Place de Arms (and through a full marathon just starting off). The guidebook says “Few churches in North America are as wow-inducing as Notre Dame” and it definitely is! This Gothic-revival edifice boasts two square 228-foot towers out front, a 12-ton bell (largest in NA), a 7,000-pipe organ, a ceiling studded with thousands of 24-carat gold stars, ornate carved wooden walls and magnificent sculptures throughout – but especially in the altarpiece. The service (in French) had just started and we sat through it, marveling at the interior and enjoying the organ music. The acoustics and sound system are excellent and I was able to understand a good deal of the gospel lesson and some of the homily. Afterwards, we wandered around gawking at the artisan and artwork. The intricately carved wood pulpit is especially noteworthy. The sides are pierced by stained glass windows added in 1929 that were made in Limoges, France, and tell the story of Montreal’s founding. The singer Celine Dion was married in 1994 in the chapel behind the altar.

    Montreal was founded in 1642 and grew quickly. The Sulpician order of monks came across with the settlers and established a church on Notre Dame Street that soon became too small but it took until 1823 for the church fathers to approve building the present edifice. Starting in 1824 under the direction of a protestant architect, it was completed in 1829. The two towers were added in 1841 and 1843. It is recognized as a national historic site.

    We walked a few blocks down to the Old Port. We thought to go through the archeological museum but we were too early for that. Instead, we strolled and sat along the riverfront park, taking it the promenade, the giant Ferris wheel (largest in NA), the white clock tower and the view of the Jaques Cartier Bridge that leads to St. Helene Island, which has an amusement park and an aquarium.

    We boarded the Hop-on, Hop-off city tour bus to see more of the city. This tour took us through many of the neighborhoods that make up the city. There are many murals on the walls – it’s a “thing” in Montreal. The bus took us through the commercial center and up the “mountain” past the Oratory of St Joseph (no pic but has the largest dome in NA) and onto Mont Royal Park. This huge (500+ acres) park (a 760-foot-high basalt outcropping) is surrounded by the city and has commanding views to the southeast and southwest and also holds two enormous cemeteries – one for the Catholics, one for the Protestants. We hopped off at one overlook to catch the views and walk a bit of the many trails that web the park. We grabbed the next bus and went back down into the city, through McGill University (one of four in the city). Passed more sights in the commercial center, including the huge circle over one street. Back to the Old Port, where we jumped off.

    We searched out a restaurant Marie had identified and found Jardin Jacques Nelson along Place Jacques Cartier. Billed as the best terrace restaurant in Montreal, this pleasant place is a gem! We ate in the courtyard garden (Jardin), under tent-like umbrellas among trees and flower planters. A jazz trio entertained as we ordered and ate. The food was fabulous! Marie had a salmon poke bowl, Gail the baked walleye, while Bruce had clam chowder and ceviche. Gail and Bruce topped the meal off with great desserts. We all agreed the meals were excellent. We strolled through Place Cartier past the City Hall back to the hotel for a rest period.

    After a break and discussions about our route and schedule for tomorrow, Marie and Bruce went out for some nightlife while Gail stayed at the hotel. We tried to change our large bill ($100 C) into smaller ones but the currency exchange was closed. Took Levesque to Denis (many street names have Saint before them, but not Levesque) and tuned left. Walked up Denis a few blocks, looking for Bistro a Jo Jo, a blues bar with fairly continuous live music, according to the hotel desk person and the reviews on their website. A couple blocks up from Levesque, at a major cross street, we happened on a street musician playing guitar. Bruce asked if he could play (music) with the guitarist. The guitarist started into Hoochee Coochee Man and Bruce was right in the grove. He followed with a bluesy something (of his own, perhaps) that was more difficult to play with. We continued up Denis to the Bistro at 1627. There was a guy playing guitar when we arrived. We sat down with beers (after getting change for the $100s). we talked about Marie's plans. After listening to the guy for several songs, Bruce asked if he could play with the guitarist. He said yes and Bruce played two songs with him. We listened to several more songs, including a soulful rendition of Summertime. We left and walked back via Laurent. Marie commented on what a beautiful night it was. Back about 22:00.    Read more

  • TravelerQuebec Road Trip
    1
    Day 4

    Day 3 - To Quebec City

    September 26, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Before leaving the hotel about 09:00, we grabbed a few items from the breakfast spread then headed out. Drove to a renown bagel place, St. Viateur Bagel & Café on Mont-Royal Street. Both the guidebook and several Youtube travel clips rave about these specialties. It was busy but the line moved quickly. We ordered and watched them make and bake the bagels in the back. When we got our order, it was worth the wait. Done there, we headed out of Montreal south and mostly east making for the area called the Eastern Townships along the A-10 freeway. We turned off that onto secondary roads to explore the rural side of Quebec. This area is known for hiking, biking, and winter sports as well as vineries. It is only a few miles from Vermont and New Hampshire. We drove past Lake Brome to Lake Memphremagog and stopped at the Benedictine Abbey of Saint Benoit du Lac. This beautiful, peaceful place is a working monastery that produces apples, apple products and a variety of cheeses. The abbey building is a modern, austere house of contemplation and worship. We toured the abbey and church (completely renovated in 1999 and shopped the gift store. We took some of the food we’d been carrying and added the cheese and sparkling hard cider we’d bought at the gift shop and had a wonderful lunch on the picnic tables overlooking the abbey and lake. A fabulous setting and great stop!

    More back roads heading a bit north of east through Sherbrooke and along the C-112. This is farm country (mainly dairy, it seems) with wide rolling fields and wooded hills. We noticed the colors starting to change on the leaves. Passed through the Thetford Mines area. A series of open pit asbestos mines that closed in the 1980s left gigantic mounds of spoil and tailings that created a somewhat lunar landscape, devoid of vegetation. It was an eerie sight. Continued on to eventually catch the A-73 freeway into Quebec City just before dusk. Found our hotel, the renowned and magnificent Fontenac Castle in the heart of downtown. This huge, stately hotel, perched on the heights overlooking the St Lawrence and the Old Town has a history that goes back to the founding of the city. The guidebook says it is the most photographed hotel in the world and you’ve probably seen pictures of it. It was dark by the time we checked in and got to our rooms. The air had turned colder and a sharp wind gusted through the ramparts as we explored outside. We went to get something light to eat and found the restaurant full so sat in the bar and had leisurely drinks and a meat board and a humus board filled with interesting and tasty items. The glittering and sumptuously appointed hotel is a destination in and of itself and has a museum of exhibits depicting the founding of the city and the history of the hotel in the lower level. We called it a night after planning out our morning for tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerQuebec Road Trip
    1
    Day 5

    Day 4 - Seeing Quebec City

    September 27, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    A brisk morning greeted us as we grabbed the Hop-on, Hop-off bus in Place de Armes, in front of the Frontenac Chateau (our hotel). We jumped on the first circuit of the day and shared the upper deck with one other couple. It was sunny but chilly – in the low 50s. The tour took us through the Old Port and past the Museum of Civilization below the high cliffs that channel the St Lawrence through it narrow defile at this point. The 300-foot cliffs and narrow stretch is why Samuel de Champlain (in 1608) chose this location for the site of the fortification that eventually became Quebec (and, in particular, the Frontenac Chateau). The city name is a bastardization of the Algonquin phrase “where the river narrows.”

    The bus took us back into the Old Port and around the walled city. Quebec is the only city in North America that is still enclosed by its original walls. The tour led past the city hall and various churches and up to the Plains of Abraham on the bluff overlooking the river. The Plains (also called the Battlefield Plains) was the site of the most decisive battle in North America. In 1759, the British attacked the French on these fields and soundly defeated them to end France’s dream of a colony in the new world. The tour continued back through parts of the city and past the parliament building and grand fountain. It was cold on the upper deck, even with a bit of extra clothing and we were glad to return to the start after an entraining ride.

    Marie had struck up a conversation with the other couple on the deck and gotten breakfast and dinner suggestions from them. We walked up St Louis street to the yellow-awning’ed L’Omelet, a small cheery place where we had a standard breakfast in a low-key setting. After breakfast we started exploring on foot, visiting several places we’d passed on the bus tour. A cruise ship had docked at the port overnight (we’d seen hotel patrons rolling their suitcases down to board) and dumped a couple thousand people onto the streets as the day went on. It was crowded in the Old Port and through the walled city. Gail and Marie walked the shopping district in Old Port while Bruce headed to more open spaces. Strolling through downtown, Gail especially like the “umbrella street.” She and Marie walked around and took the funicular up to the plaza and terrace overlooking the river. Marie struck ff walking while Gail did people-watching and listening to the street musicians on the terrace. Bruce walked up the Cap Diamant (the high point on which is situated the military citadel and the Plains of Abraham. He strolled back into the city by the parliament building and down St Louis street to join Gail on the terrace. We went back to the room to freshen up and change then met Marie to walk up the same St Louis street to the restaurant where we’d made reservations earlier. The Sagamite restaurant (a recommendation from the couple on the bus) specializes in indigenous cuisine. We ordered an indigenous vineyards malbec wine to start. The waitress was proud to explain the choices on the menu and we opted for the piece de resistance: the flamed-at-the-table skewer of bison, elk, and deer. We proceeded that with a cold-smoked trout appetizer that was delicious. The meat came on a teepee-like iron skewer that the staff poured whiskey over and set on fire. When that died down, we dug in. The meal came with a few vegetables and several sauces. The meat was excellent! Tender and tasty and thoroughly enjoyable. Back to the hotel to wind down and eventually call it a night.    Read more

  • TravelerQuebec Road Trip
    Day 5

    Day 5 - To Ile d'Orleans

    September 27, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 55 °F

    Packed up and went for breakfast up St louis street to La Buche (the Log). We’d seen this place with a line outside it so figured it was good. Inside, they asked if we had reservations (for breakfast?) which we didn’t, so we waited and took in the bustling, lumberjack themed eatery – pine picnic tables, lumbering tools on the walls, wait staff in checked flannel shirts and jeans. We had a standard breakfast that was worth the wait.

    Back to the hotel to check out and put the suitcases in the car. Gail opted to hang around the hotel while Marie and Bruce walked up to the citadel. Marie went walking out onto the Plains of Abraham while Bruce went into the citadel. The next tour in English in the citadel was at 11:30; that would be too late to get back to the hotel for our 13:00 hotel tour appointment so he didn’t go in. Marie hailed Bruce as he walked in the Plains and they walked back down the Governor’s Promenade (a shady, boardwalk and steps climbing from the front of the hotel to the citadel).

    Met Gail on the boardwalk in front of the hotel and caught our tour group. A man in period dress came to lead us through the Frontenac. He explained the history of the site and the many forts, dwellings, and hotels that had been built on the site. He explained the different stages of construction of the present edifice and the architects and builders who created it. He led us inside and explained some of the interior details. We walked through several of the dinning rooms (currently closed) and he pointed out more architectural details. He showed us the herb gardens on the 3rd floor and one of the staterooms. Gail was a bit disappointed that we didn’t see more but we did learn a lot.

    We drove through town and along the north shore of the St Lawrence, heading for our next destination, Ile d’Orleans. We were early so we passed the bridge leading to the island and continued to the Basilica and Shrine of Saint Anne de Beaupre. Expecting a small church and worship center, we were surprised at the large, modern granite structure in the middle of the fields. We entered the basilica grotto (under the sanctuary) and were struck by the low vaulted ceiling and blue hue. The walls were covered with frescos depicting Canadian (Quebecois) religious personages. Then we walked up the stairs to the incredible main church! The soaring columns and stained-glass windows were fantastic. There was art everywhere: paintings on the walls, carved stone on the columns, mosaics in the vestibule, copper door panels, and on and on. We’ve been to many churches in Europe and the Americas but this Basilica ranks among the most beautiful we’ve seen.

    We headed back to the bridge for the island and crossed over. Missed the turn to the hotel so got a bit of a tour of the south side of the island. Found the small, quaint Auberge Goeliche on the west point of Ile d’Orleans. Checked in and walked around the little Quai until dinner at the Auberge. A tasty, leisurely meal. Now finishing this and to bed, anticipating a good day tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerQuebec Road Trip
    Day 6

    Day 6 - Waterfalls and Orleans Island

    September 28, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    The Goeliche Inn didn’t serve breakfast, so we drove up the road to a coffee bar and had pastries and quiche with our coffee and tea. Headed over the bridge back to the north bank of the St Lawrence and the Montmorency Falls Park. This grand falls drops 84 meters (almost 275 feet) off the escarpment down into the St Lawrence valley. It is open and flat but tumbles down a slight incline. We took the cable car up to the Montmorency Hotel at the top of the falls and walked to the suspension bridge at the head. The falls is the site of the first hydro power installation in Canada and the head of the falls is a smooth dam. Gail wandered back to the hotel while Marie and Bruce made the circuit around the falls and down the 400+ steps back to the visitor center. We took many photos of the falls from each stop along the way. Met Gail in the gift shop while Marie got a jacket she’d seen in Quebec City at a much higher price.

    Back on the road heading north of east along the bank some 18 miles to the St Anne Falls. We pulled out some of our traveling food and picnicked in the grove in front of the falls entrance. Marie and Bruce went in while Gail waited in the shade. We walked the circuit around the 72 meter (225 foot) falls on the paved, gentle path. The way is replete with overlooks and vantage points to see different views of the narrow, rushing cascade. At one stop on the path is a replica of Thoreau’s cabin at Walden Pond. Turns out he visited the falls in 1850 as part of a large tourist group from Boston. He and a friend hiked two days from Quebec City to the falls after hearing how beautiful it was. And it certainly is. We went down to the lowest level at the base of the chute where it levels out onto the valley plain the walked back up the 178 steps to get back on the path

    We headed back to Orleans Island (Ile d’Orleans) to explore it more. In St Laurant, we stopped at a couple art places and visited the maritime museum. Bruce toured the museum, which told the history of the boat building and storage business that made St Laurant prosperous. On around the island through St Jean, St Francois (the north point of the island), Sante Familie, and finally to St Pierre. One of the tourist maps noted a Brasserie there as a good spot for dinner so we found that and had a good meal. Bruce sampled one of the local dishes we’d read about – Poutine. Poutine is a large nest of French fries mixed with cheese curds and drenched in a gravy or sauce. You can get toppings and he ordered a pork topping. It was good but heavy. Back to the auberge to wind down and write this.    Read more

  • TravelerQuebec Road Trip
    Day 8

    Day 7 - On to the Gaspe Pennisula

    September 30, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Left the hotel at 08:00 without checking out because the front desk wasn’t manned (or womanned, as the case may be). (Called back to the hotel later and verified they were OK with our checking out.) Stopped at the coffee shop for breakfast before heading back into Q. City. (We had to traverse the city to get to the south bank of the St Lawrence.) Safely through the city, we headed northeast on the A 20 freeway until we cleared the metro area then jumped over to the C 132. This two-lane scenic way follows the river more closely and passes through the towns and villages that the A 20 bypasses. The countryside is gently rolling valley bottom land; rich soil, moderate-sized farms, small repair shops and services. To the south, the diminishing Appalachian Mountains marched along heading towards the sea further out the Pennisula. We are beginning to see fall colors on the hillsides. They are spreading from single trees to whole groves and parcels.

    Passed through a series of saint-named places (St Jean, St Roch, St Pascual) and some native American-named places (Kamouraska, Rimouski – further north) as we headed for Riviere du Loup as our mid-day destination. Solid, single-family homes dotted the roadside with family-named farms setting back from it. Stopped at a three-story grist mill in St Roc des Aulnaies but didn’t go in. Continued to Riviere du Loup where we found the downtown Waterfalls Park and walked a bit there to the thundering of several falls churning down the rocks. Grabbed lunch at a fast-food place and continued north. Turned in at the Parc National du Bic. This smallish park encompassing a wooded, basalt outcropping next to the river has miles of well-maintained hiking and biking trails that follow the shore or cut cross country. A small display in a former barn told of the first family to live and work the land here. Marie and Bruce walked a short while on some of the paths before rejoining Gail and driving through the rest of the park. A short drive up the132 landed us in Rimouski and our overnight hotel, the St Germain. Checked in and left our bags in the small, modern, elegant hotel. Had dinner across the street at the Greek restaurant. Back to the room to relax and do this.

    A bit about finances. The Canadian dollar is currently worth about 75 US cents. So when the bill is C$ 50, that’s roughly US$ 37.50. Before coming, we got a small amount of cash but are paying practically everything with credit cards. It’s been hard to find an establishment that takes American Express but Visa and Master Card are widely accepted. Most places bring a portable, handheld charge and printing machine to the table and process the bill right there. But Taxes! All food and services have a 5% state tax and a 10% federal tax. That makes a dent. Even more, everybody expects a tip (15% is the recommended rate). So a lunch costing C$ 50, winds up costing about C$ 65.

    Having trouble loading pics from my phone so no pics, today.    Read more

  • TravelerQuebec Road Trip
    Day 8

    Day 8 - To the east Gaspe Peninsula

    September 30, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

    Had a great breakfast at a bakery around the corner from the hotel. Bruce’s came with two enormous (12” long by 5”wide) slices of sourdough bread! We bought sandwiches for the road there, too.

    Off driving along the south bank of the St Lawrence on the scenic Rte 132, heading mostly northeast but curving always to the right and getting closer to due east as the road led on. Through places like St Flavie, and Monte Joli across the gentle rolling farmland as the mountains crept closer to the river. The trees are definitely showing strong color change in patches. Vibrant yellows, oranges, and deep reds carpet some of the hills. Past Matane, where they catch and process the coveted Nordic shrimp. Stopped at a town rest area (every town seems to have a small rest area, usually with toilets.) Took a short side trip to see the biggest vertical wind turbine in the world – an experiment in the 1980’s that shut down in the 90s after making important findings.

    On through Cap Chat (Cape Cat), Saint Anne, Marsoui, all of them presenting exceptional views as we wound along between the mountain and the River (growing wider and wider, the opposite bank already long out of sight). Lighthouses are spaced along the way and we stopped at several. The road now traveled a narrow shoulder of land between the River and the Appalachian Mountains plowing into the Gulf of St Lawrence. The same line of mountains that cradle our home in Boonsboro continue up through PA, NY, New England and into Quebec. They make the spine of the Gaspe Peninsula, rising at its center but angling northeast. Here they are called Monts Chic-Chocs and have two large reserves covering parts of them. They are mere hills this close to the Gulf but still formidable. By Cap Chat they hemmed in the road, tall enough, still, to make stretches of shade on the route even at 14:00. We stopped to eat our sandwiches at another roadside rest of gazebos along a hillside with a narrow bay in front. We kept marveling at how sharply the mountains dove into the River and Gulf. The sheerness of the cliffs is awesome! Stopped to Look at the twisted sedimentary layers exposed on the cliffs above the 132. The northern-most point of our trip came somewhere around Gros Morne.

    Now heading east and curving south, we started crossing the mountains. They shoot out into the Gulf and drop off so sharply that the road can’t get a purchase and has to climb across the ridges and valleys. The road climbs very steep grades and descends sharply – some grades noted as 12%, 14 % and even one at 17%! Through Grand Vallee and Pointe a la Fregate. In the tributary valleys and estuaries we crossed, the land is fertile and farmed. Each tributary valley has its community clustered near the bridge across it. The fall colors present themselves around every curve. Into Petit Cap, where we stayed on the 132 towards Forillon Park. We stopped at various places to catch the views or a lighthouse. Through Gaspe, itself, and continued to Perce. We found our hotel Riotel and took our room with a postcard view of the three sisters rock out our window. Had a fantastic meal in the hotel restaurant! We ordered the seafood special for two and shared it among us three. This came on a huge plate piled with a sectioned lobster, scallops, Matane shrimp, haddock, and Atlantic salmon fillets, all on a bed of rice. Great food and the Matane shrimp are just as good as advertised. Stopped at the firebox blazing under the one-day-past full moon on the way back to the room. Great road voyage!

    Still no pics - too bad.    Read more

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