Hazel & Ted in India

February - March 2023
A 14-day trip to explore India’s Golden Triangle, spot tigers at Ranthambore and take the famous toy train up to Shimla. Read more
  • 14footprints
  • 2countries
  • 14days
  • 208photos
  • 9videos
  • 9.9kmiles
  • 8.3kmiles
  • Day 1

    Poulton-Delhi

    February 16, 2023 in England

    We are off! The last big trip (and travel blog) was 4 years’ ago when a global pandemic was far from all our minds and we still had a Queen! Obtaining an Indian Visa has been tortuous due to issues surrounding said Covid situation but to cut a long story short, the visas are now firmly stuck into our passports and away we go. The selfie stick was unearthed at the last moment and practise shots on the doorstep, with Ted having to be encouraged to smile, taken. However, he had mastered this art by the time we arrived at PLF station! An early arrival into Euston but forgotten how awkward large cases are to manoeuvre up and down the steps in the Tube and, of course, the lift was broken! Tour Manager, Phil, was holding court in Terminal 3 with his Great Rail Journeys badge on and all seemed to be going smoothly until helper Pam asked had we checked in…. well no, Pam, as never had to do that before with GRJ and no communication was sent to do so. Was this naive of me? No window seats left and a person sitting between us in the middle bank of 4… 😳 A swift drink in this very busy terminal was called for to soften this blow….. let’s hope VS300 goes on time and the person seated between Ted and I will swap….. 😬🤞Read more

  • Day 2

    Arrival into Delhi

    February 17, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Great flight and that’s praise indeed coming from someone who is not that into flying! For some reason people with the same name were not seated together… the man in between Ted and I had a wife who was in the row in front but with some cooperative juggling we were all sorted to our satisfaction by take-off. Did a bit of dozing but no real 💤 so Ted is now flat out on the hotel bed and I am by the splendid pool as, sleep or no sleep, I cannot pass this one up and we leave by 6 am tomorrow! An hour and a half’s queuing to get through immigration was chaotic and tortuous but we made it in the end, narrowly avoiding engaging in fisticuffs with queue jumpers and actually feeling lucky, as it can be up to 3 hours we were told. Introduction to the sights of Delhi was from the coach drive to the hotel but I wasn’t quick enough with my phone camera to snap the random cows, the many men who were casually having a pee by the roadside or the overly laden bikes so you will have to be satisfied with the photos I did get dear Readers! The traffic was horrendous with much honking of horns and this is expected to let the “opposition” (other road users) know you are there. I spied a small encampment, complete with washing lines on the roadside, which must make life almost impossible but there it was. By contrast our first hotel is large and palatial. Note to self….. it’s always advisable, having spent time sorting out jewellery, to remember to put the jewellery into the hand luggage and not leave at home ….. 😬😩Read more

  • Day 3

    To Shimla via the Toy Train

    February 18, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Last night’s dinner buffet at the hotel was really sumptuous, as was today’s breakfast, and it’s good to know we can sample these delights again as we return to the ITC Maurya, Delhi twice later on in the trip. However, alarm set for 05.30 (short bursts of sleep only for me with the jet-lag) and off promptly at 6.30 am on the coach to Delhi Station.

    From the coach dropping off point we took our lives in our hands (about 32 in the group) in order to cross the road and walk to the station, literally walking between tuk-tuks and other vehicles- hesitation is fatal! Delhi station was a scene of chaos but the Shatabdi Express to Kalka departed on time at 7.40 am. Complimentary tea and biscuits and further snacks were served - anything not factory packed we are avoiding! The amount of rubbish (mounds in many places) and scenes of abject poverty observed through the train windows is shocking and it’s a good job that the uploaded video goes fairly quickly as lots of locals were performing not only No. 1s but No. 2s in many cases….. not for the faint hearted! Ted and I enjoyed the tea and biscuits, but didn’t go overboard on further drinks in order to avoid the onboard delights of the lavatory arrangements 😱 So 4 hours on the Shatabdi Express to Kalka, a quick dive over to the other platform and onto the Toy Train to Shimla - a tour highlight and where we spend the next 3 nights.

    Our main luggage went by road as there is no room in the Toy Train for much other than people and an overnight bag. I had seen it on the TV but really didn’t realise that it can take up to 6 hours plus to reach Shimla, the hill station where the British Raj went in the hot summer months to get some cool relief from the weather and from where they ruled for 8 months of the year. It took us 5 hours with various very short stops and a packed lunch to eat on the way. The train wound up the hillsides through 109 tunnels gradually getting to 6000 plus feet above sea level with spectacular views. Chaos on Shimla station, a dash out to the waiting cars for the last 15 mins to the Oberoi Cecil Hotel, a beautiful colonial style hotel.
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  • Day 4

    Shimla

    February 19, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Despite feeling shocking again after only four hours’ sleep, we got up promptly at 7am and were first down to breakfast! The day started with a very informative talk and slides about Shimla (the capital of the Himachal Pradesh region), surrounding geography, the East India Company in India and colonisation of India by the Brits. I discovered some woman had had 10 hours sleep and wanted to kill her! 😣

    We then all piled into taxis, 4 to a car, and went up to the Viceregal Lodge where the Viceroys of India lived until partition in 1947-the last Viceroy being Lord Mountbatten of Burma. Shimla was the summer retreat of the Brits during their rule due to the cooler mountain air and it was thought that one fifth of the world was ruled from here during the summer months, as the Brits couldn’t stand the heat. Indeed, Shimla saw some of the most pivotal moments of colonial history. We had a tour and a talk there and a stroll in the grounds.

    Back to the cars and the Hindu Sankat Monchat temple. As it was a Sunday lots of locals were visiting, ringing the bell before entering the temple and taking offerings. The only access for all these people was up a death defying set of steps (about 8) with a wonky handrail so lots of care taken here! A couple of poor old beggar women were seated opportunely at the top of the steps but we have all been warned not to make eye contact or give anything………. 😔. Good views of Shimla were had from here, Ted grazed his lower leg on something sharp, which bled but then, on return to the steps, we nearly lost a group member when she missed her step, grabbed the dodgy handrail, fell to the ground and nearly went backwards (head first) down an unguarded 12 foot drop, saved only by a quick acting Indian couple, plus Ted who leapt forward and grabbed her feet! As this is the same unfortunate woman who left her handbag somewhere in Delhi airport with her phone and credit card in I can only say this could be a holiday to remember, but for the wrong reasons!

    Back to the cars to a hotel for lunch then, during the afternoon, a stroll around Shimla with Raj, the local guide. We walked along the Mall, the main thoroughfare with its variety of shops, stopped for a visit to the Gaiety Theatre where a drama group was practising, stopped at Scandal Point where all the gossip was exchanged, visited Christ Church with a huge statue of the elephant god on the hillside behind. All along the streets are groups of Macaque monkeys who are aggressive and to be avoided as they will pinch hats and sunglasses from your face if they can, that’s if the stray dogs don’t chase them away first! A good 40 min walk back to the hotel and then Ted and I had a swim in the most delightful indoor heated pool prior to dinner. 🤞I sleep tonight.
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  • Day 5

    Lord Kitchener’s Wildflower Hall

    February 20, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A good night’s sleep at last due to my best friend Nytol- thank goodness.

    Off into the taxis again up to the Kulfi region of Shimla. Shimla is in the northerly most province of India just 350 km from Tibet and not that far from the Pakistan border, hence the numerous military personnel, hospitals and establishments we have seen around here. Despite the overcrowded appearance of infrastructure on Shimla’s hillside only 20% of the province’s population live there whilst 80% live in the rural villages-15-20% on the mountainside terraces and the rest on the plains. The industries are agriculture and horticulture, the main crops being apples and other vegetables. An American missionary brought the sweet apple rootstocks here back in the day though they still have to import apples from other countries to satisfy their requirements. The healthcare and education infrastructures are good and all houses have electricity. Surplus hydroelectric power is sold to other regions of India.

    Our first stopping point was at 8,200 feet above sea level in the Kulfi region and in the middle range of the Himalayas (which means Home of Snow). Indeed, although the winter weather has been unseasonably warm this year (warmest February since 1901), there were still traces of snow on the roadside and the snow capped Himalayas could be seen in the distance.

    The usual photo opportunity was taken here along with a chance to use toilet facilities in the “glancing” tents where we were. The tents had 6 foot beds in them, faced a glorious view and western style “en-suite” facilities at the back (though the flushing system was not working 🫣 in the particular one I used!). No one was holidaying at that particular time but evidence of rubbish from other wild campers could be seen which was a bit shocking.

    Onwards then to a lunch at Wildflower Hall, where Lord Kitchener used to holiday between 1902 -1909. He apparently loved it there. It is now an Oberoi hotel, the same chain as the one we are staying in. Mr. Oberoi started work as a bell boy, rose to become the owner of this prestigious chain and died in 2002 at the age of 103. Pictures were duly taken on and from the terrace then all back into the cars for the return to Shimla where Ted and I had a swim! Main luggage has to be outside our door by 7pm for the 6.30 am start tomorrow.
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  • Day 6

    Return to Delhi

    February 21, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Early morning start of 6.30 am from Shimla was changed to 7.30 much to everyone’s delight 😀
    9 taxis in convoy then transported us from Shimla to Chandigarh along the twists and turns of the road we had seen at intervals from the Toy Train. This operation took about 3 and a half hours and we saw a different perspective than from the train. Road improvement is taking place all along the route with big plant machinery on the one hand and a man shovelling gravel into panniers on a donkey’s back on the other.!

    The taxis bowled along with other motorists attempting near impossible overtaking and many unguarded gaps at the verge where any of us could be plunging down the mountainside to the valleys below! Coffee and toilet stop halfway along and then before we knew it we were joining the chaotic traffic on the outskirts of Chandigarh. If we stopped at traffic lights for any length of time the beggars quickly appeared to peer into the car windows. These poor creatures (one with no hands and even worse, one with no arms at all) were pitiful to behold.

    By contrast, we lucky people were provided with packed lunches again and herded into the upper class waiting room on the station but at least we were able to give whatever we weren’t going to eat from the lunches to the toilet attendant and she was highly delight with it all, so that was a plus.
    So we boarded the Shatabdi Express once more, destination Delhi, and scheduled to arrive at 15.25 and it did! Onto the bus and back to the ITC Maurya Hotel. Temperature higher now (26 degrees at 17.30 hrs) with predicted 31 tomorrow.

    Delhi has 22 million inhabitants and is one of the greenest cities in the world and we are looking forward to the city tour tomorrow. Having seen all the rubbish from the train and the squalid conditions that people live in by the side of the railway I asked Raj about the Covid pandemic in India. He told me that EVERYONE was offered the vaccinations and that the majority of the population had at least two vaccines. I find that almost impossible to believe as many of the slum dwellers are refugees-how on earth do local officials have any idea of who lives there? 🤷🏻‍♀️
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  • Day 7

    A Day in Delhi

    February 22, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Delhi is now the capital of India. In 1911 the ruling Brits created New Delhi then 40 sq km alongside the original Delhi. Now it all merges into one at 1600 sq kms.

    India has 29 States each with its own parliament but because Delhi is the capital, it is a City State and the control over health, education and transportation is set by the Central Government. There are 23 official languages in India, which are all very different but in Delhi 4 languages (Hindi, Punjabi, Urdu and English) are spoken. English can often be a common language between two Indians. Every Indian starts to learn English in primary school and there are opportunities to learn other languages such as German, French or Mandarin.

    People in Delhi can expect to earn 10x the income of other areas but the cost of living is also much, much more. Public transportation ( buses, taxis, tuk tuks) run on natural gas. Private vehicles can run on petrol and diesel but are tested 3 monthly as to their capacity to pollute and are fined heavily accordingly. Sources of income include tourism, medical tourism, the IT industry. Today India is celebrating 75 years of independence. The Moslems came in the 7th Century, the Moghul dynasties took over 12th to mid 19th C before the Brits took over until 1947.

    Delhi is a city of contrasts. We set off at 8 am to Old Delhi to visit the Jama Masjid Mosque where both men and women had to wear the provided “ cover-ups”. No shoes allowed either. Leaving there we all boarded rickshaws and had a hair raising ride through Chandi Chowk/Silver Street, the old narrow streets, to see the shops gradually opening up to sell their wares. Quite a contrast to New Delhi with bundles of electric wires everywhere, monkeys swinging on the wires and between buildings, rickshaw drivers, moped riders and tuk tuks vying for position, all at breakneck speed ( or so it seemed!) Several beggars and hawkers surrounded the tourists, anxious to get money and sell wares respectively and deals were done.

    Onwards to Humayun’s tomb, a World Heritage Site, erected by his widow. He was a Moghul ruler. Onwards once more to the National Memorial Park to see Ghandi’s cremation site. Other leaders such as Nehru and Indira Ghandi (actually Nehru’s daughter) have also been cremated here. Their ashes then all go into the Ganges.
    Back to the bus and onwards to the carpet outlet where we were given drinks and snacks, which sufficed for lunch whilst we gazed at the truly beautiful silk carpets. Thankfully, though some of the group showed some interest only, one couple bought a small carpet and several some pashmina shawls, which they also sold.

    In contrast to Old Delhi there are some seriously large and very green open parks/ spaces in New Delhi. We saw India Gate ( WW1 and WW2 memorial), various important government and other notable buildings, as well as the present Prime Minister, Mr Modi’s, very impressive gaff and finally completed the tour with a visit to the lovely and peaceful Ghandi “ museum” where he was living and where he was assassinated on 30th January 1948.

    All very enjoyable and interesting but back now to the hotel where main suitcases have to be outside the door by 7pm as we set off again on the train tomorrow at 7 am to Agra. We will be back in this hotel though once more the night before we leave for home.
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  • Day 8

    Onward to Agra and the Taj Mahal

    February 23, 2023 in India

    Well first of all there was a BIG Indian wedding party 6 floors below our window which we managed to sleep through ok but I think the staff had been up all night and were clearing up 5 am this morning when our alarm went off! I include this morning’s breakfast selection at the ITC Maurya for interest.

    An early start and off we went to a different Delhi Station for the 8.10 train service to Agra. Usual scenes of chaos and the most poor man with not many limbs desperately asking for money at the foot of the coach steps…. 😟. Our first stop was the Agra Red Fort. This was heaving with people but impressive. Each Moghul Emperor added something to this fort as they came into power. The Moghuls eventually failed when they interfered in politics and wanted the Hindus to become Muslim. The Hindus naturally did not want to leave their religion behind and thus did not support the Moghuls in Indian War of Independence, thus leaving the way clear for British rule.

    Shan Jahan built the Taj Mahal for his wife Mumtaz Mahal starting in 1632 AD after she died giving birth to their 14th child (no wonder!) as a memorial. It took 22 years to build. He originally wanted to build a bridge to the Red Fort but his son soon decided against that, keeping him imprisoned for 8 years at the Agra Fort under house arrest, and preventing his grand ambitions. Apparently he spent too much money! The Taj Mahal was one of the original Seven Wonders of the World.

    So it was to the ITC Mughal Hotel, Agra we went and after checking into our rooms and having some lunch we set off at 3pm to this most famous monument.

    The process of entry was all wildly chaotic with much queuing,checking of tickets etc but it really is a wow moment when you step through the arch and see the monument for real. “Official “ photos were taken then Ted and I walked up and queued to go into the mausoleum itself. Overshoes were required for this. On the walk up to the mausoleum 2 Sikh young men in bright orange turbans were taking pictures of each other. They then indicated (we thought) that they wanted a photo together but what they really wanted were photos of themselves and us! After that the rest of the family (about 20, including children) all wanted photos of us-felt like a Hollywood star! 🤣😂 We really should have taken a picture of the whole family but we didn’t 😩.

    After much negotiation to find Disney-like open trams to go back to the coach it was decided by Taj that we would visit the marble artisan workshop at the marble factory outlet instead of tomorrow. This went down like a lead balloon with Ted who stayed in the coach! 🤣. After the usual spiel and the majority couldn’t wait to exit after a long day, we finally returned to the Hotel (another ITC one) at 7 pm. Straight to the bar with a convivial group then into dinner where more photos of buffet have been added to the blog….
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  • Day 9

    Fatehpur Sikri and on to Ranthambore

    February 24, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    9 am start to the ancient, abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri, another Moghul capital back in the day and attacked many times by the Hindu Maharajahs when the Moghul Empire was weak. Most of the buildings are now demolished but the Indian Archaeological Society work to preserve the beautiful red sandstone structures. The Moghul rulers lived in the Palace, one with a Turkish wife (his Sultana) and around 3000 concubines 😳.

    We left the coach in the main car park, had to run the gauntlet of the quite agressive hawkers and maimed beggars, one of whom, a lad of about 20, had one leg where the lower half, with foot, was facing the wrong way. Whether this had been done deliberately as a child I don’t know. 😔. We then had another hair raising 5 min smaller bus ride (speedometer not working, door open, no seat belts, tyres questionable) to the archeological site, heard the history, walked the walk and returned to the bus.

    Lunch was in a splendid hotel (Laxmi Villas), a popular wedding venue.
    We had now travelled from the State of Uttra Pradesh to Rajastan, a very dry state. Raj gave us a few facts during the day. The cows wandering about everywhere do, in fact, have owners who feed them but often don’t have room to accommodate them all day so they are free to wander and are collected at the end of the day, similarly the goats. There is method in their madness when they sit down in the middle of the road-the hustle and bustle of the traffic keeps flies and other insects away. The cows are not so much “holy” as useful and valuable to a family.

    The road ahead was very good-a toll road and we passed through several toll plazas. We then turned onto the New Delhi-Mombai Expressway, opened only last week by the Prime Minister, Mr Mondi. It has cut down that journey from 24 to 12 hours. Only fast moving vehicles are allowed on it. Users pay for the distance travelled (per km) whereas on others a fixed fee is paid. There was no one on it! Arrival at the hotel was about 6.30 pm then a quick wash and brush up before dinner.
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  • Day 10

    Tiger Spotting!

    February 25, 2023 in India

    OMG - what a day! Didn’t sleep that well though most other people seemed to do so! The Sawai Vilas (probably should be Villas) are a two storey 3-sided (the 4th being the restaurant/bar/reception area) structure forming a square in the middle of which is the beautiful swimming pool and green garden area. A free morning, thankfully, so had a sunbathe and a swim before the talk from the Ranthambore National Park naturalist at 12 noon. He was a bit difficult to understand but interesting, showed us some slides and hyped us up for the afternoon safari which set off from the hotel at 2.30 pm and the object of the exercise was to see the Bengal tiger of which there are 70 in Ranthambore Park. It’s all about the Tigers here!

    The group occupied 2 “canters” (safari vehicles). Phil had said we were well placed at the hotel, as it was well into the Park but.. we seemed to go the other way, through the town, to “Gate 10”. This took 40 minutes and people were a bit disgruntled. Our Ranger guy was very confident and loud, said he would “do my best for you” but at first people on the cater saw various deer/spotted deer, monkeys, birds before he did.! Confidence was not high. The canter was a bone-shaker (literally!) and the Park was like an arid-looking desert, not a bit like the two brilliant safaris we had been on in South Africa - you could feel the discontent. Phil obviously felt a bit panicky and kept apologising for lack of anything really stunning. It was also very hot with the sun beating down.

    Then we rattled into an open area by the dried up-looking river with a clump of bushes in the distance-here, we were told, tigers had been spotted earlier in the day. Trouble was that our canter swept into position parallel to the vehicle on our right, completely blocking the occupants’ view! Then more and more vehicles (canters and land rovers) arrived, all pointing in different directions, all blocking each other’s view and kicking up a cloud of dust in a noisy fashion as they did. Excited chatter abounded, almost an air or hysteria, with the biggest lenses I have ever seen anywhere pointed at the clump of bushes in the distance. Ted and I were just getting a little sceptical thinking they probably did this every afternoon when our ranger let out a shout of excitement causing everyone to leap up and point their binoculars/cameras at the clump. The Indians around us were in a frenzy of excitement, jostling for position and the ranger declared it was a “large male” (really??) and Phil asked us had we seen it.? Really? Seen what? Was it a figment of their imagination? We sat for a further 40 mins with the sun beating down during which various vehicles came and went. At this point I got a bit giggly and we laughed silently, shoulders shaking, til our stomachs ached especially when a straight-faced man in our group, in a panama hat, staring straight ahead, caught my eye, and said it was like going fishing….

    So, about turn and then, horror of horrors, another gathering of canters by the side of the river! We sprinted at top speed to join them. The tiger, the tiger! New hip or no new hip I leaped up onto the seat, caught up in the moment, shouting “Ted-grab my legs!” This Ted did, which was a good job as the driver was desperately jockeying for position and I did in fact catch a glimpse of our boy on the other side of the river. This was nothing to the furore caused when the tiger then leisurely crossed the road in front of the foremost vehicle and made a stately promenade onto the other side not a million miles away from us. Amazingly, I had an uninterrupted view and clicked away on my little mobile phone.

    And so dear readers, the moral of the story is, don’t doubt the experts (never thought we’d see a tiger outside of Blackpool Zoo!) and don’t be cynical! I ended up passing some of my 🐅🐅🐅 pics to those who missed them! 🤣😂
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