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Escape to USA, France and UK

July - December 2021
A 139-day adventure by Rosie Read more
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  • TravelerEscape to USA, France and UK
    4
    2
    Day 38

    At Bourges for 2 days

    September 5, 2021 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Thank god for Marie-Solange, our last night’s hostess! After our long walk yesterday as promised she drove us this morning, whizzing along these country roads which she obviously knows like the back of her hand, and we didn’t have a clue where we were going till she stopped in the middle of nowhere and said this is the chemin, it is 10 kms to Bourges and there is the cathedral in the distance! So we found in our notes where we were, and walked on through fields and then the suburban outskirts of Bourges and arrived. It again was SO hot, after 10.30 we were wiping drops of sweat from our brows, so the 10 kms that we didn’t have to walk were magic! It was 31° when we arrived, and now at 8.45pm it is still 26°…

    Anyway, I must relate the details of last night. First, the accommodation…our room was very small, and opposite was the Dutchman, Edwin (presume that’s his name - Marie-S called him Edwina)…normally we would have shared a bathroom with him, but she said we could use another one where people weren’t staying. So we discovered the complicated arrangement of rooms upstairs! The family had 2 rooms with lots of beds and an allocated bathroom. Then we went along to an area with a kitchen area, with a shower stall about the size of a telephone booth (Amr could just manage without waving his arms widely), which led to a bedroom with 2 big wooden double beds, end on end, on one side and on the other side a big antique wooden wardrobe, a toilet and a wash basin!! We said that was just fine, and let Edwin have his own space, but have to admit it was weird to sit on a toilet in the middle of a bedroom…and while there I noticed a door in the wall next to one of the beds. Goodness knows where it led - thought it was the end of the house!! So it was a fun and slightly weird night. All the cupboards were full of chaotic pillows, blankets etc, and the “kitchen” was equally disorganised, but did have a fridge which was handy.

    So dinner was lovely, except too much food as usual. Beautiful salad with the usual delicious home grown tomatoes, a veg quiche/frittata (which would have been quite enough) and a dish of chicken and potatoes. M-S had a little wine with us, and a bit of food, but said she had her main meal in the middle of the day…but we had a lovely time chatting to Edwin who is now wending his way home to Amsterdam…and amazingly, we helped him with the French - usually Dutch are so multilingual- but French was not his forte and we interpreted for him a bit!!! And M-S chatted solely in French - no English at all. This morning a breakfast laid for all, but we three were appointed at 8, and at about 8.30 children appeared from the family who obviously wanted to have breakfast, but wanted us to finish first (? Covid?)…so we did…

    Started walking at about 9.45 and for a short while it was pleasant, before the heat. But we were so happy that we didn’t worry…the distant huge cathedral gradually came closer, and we arrived here about 1.30. Came across a market which we wandered into - fruit and veg…Amr is drawn to markets - yesterday when we were hot and bothered and not yet at Brécy he wanted to explore a junk market in Villabon and I would rather have had my teeth pulled…but today it was ok because we were at Bourges..but we didn’t stay long, and instead looked for a bar! A beer was very necessary and being Sunday, and a bigger town, lots of bars were open. At that point, being so hot and sweaty, we decided to go straight to the hotel before we looked around at all. So Amr used his Google maps to guide us there - this town is just a network of little cobbled streets, not long distances, but I would get lost very quickly. Anyway, successfully found our hotel Christina, bags here and room ready! Perfect.

    So after showering and relaxing we set off again - still in the heat - and found our way to the famous, enormous and beautiful St Étienne cathedral and marvelled. Impossible to get good photos as it is too massive, but you can get the idea. Looking at restaurants we passed we realised that most do not do dinner on Sunday, so finally found one in the square near the cathedral which did and ate there…it was doing a roaring trade as think it was one of the few places available, and like Vézelay, Bourges is a popular place to visit…we saw quite a few French tourists with maps. So now back at hotel, Amr pretending to read but falling asleep and all is well. Rest day tomorrow…    Read more

  • TravelerEscape to USA, France and UK
    12
    Day 39

    Quiet rest day in Bourges

    September 6, 2021 in France ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We really have had a quiet day, as it is too hot in the afternoon to do anything! I so hope this Indian summer ends soon…. It was lovely getting up this morning with no time constraints, had the usual satisfying breakfast, and went out on the town again. Pleasantly cool till the sun is overhead, and we found our way up to the cathedral again, and are learning the maze of streets. Even though this is quite a big town, it was very quiet on a Monday morning. We don’t know if it’s covid, but certainly the lack of tourists would be. In some ways it is lovely to be free of groups being guided round, but that means that lots of places are closed. After a coffee break we sat on a shaded seat in a park near the cathedral and read kindles.

    Then back to our room to blob and have baguette and cheese and relax even more. It is nice to intersperse days in guest houses where you are very involved with the hosts, and feel responsible for being a good guest, with impersonal hotel days where you come and go and no one cares!

    So we roused ourselves again and found another shady seat in another spot near the cathedral for more kindle moments, and listening to podcasts in Amr’s case. While there I actually did see a group of retiree tourists being taken in a little train to see the sights, but not foreign tourists. Maybe we are the only ones!! Then we went at 5 o’clock to have a beer, much needed, despite not even having walked much, and found that they will be open for dinner tonight - they were closed yesterday…we had spied some nice salads on their menu…so we will return there soon.

    Yesterday we lit a candle for Ira in the cathedral - specially for heaven-sent wishes for operation on her wrist and nose today, and she is back and sounds on email as chirpy as ever, so we think it worked. And another personal mention is we are very proud of Liv who did really well in the HSC trials…and those poor kids still have to cope with the very uncertain details of the actual HSC. Anyway, good on Liv!

    So off to dinner soon, and tomorrow we walk about 15 kms to a guest house, so will see what new experience that brings! Will try and get most of the walking done before the heat sets in.    Read more

  • TravelerEscape to USA, France and UK
    41
    Day 40

    Another unique day - St Florent sur Cher

    September 7, 2021 in France ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    A perfect start…a taxi arrived on the dot of 9 at the hotel to take us on the first leg of our walk today (dropped us off at La Chapelle St Ursin) and took the bags on to today’s accommodation. So we set off, not too hot yet, and a little breeze and some very welcome forest walks. There was a bit of suburban walking at first, and an industrial zone. One memorable part was walking past a munitions factory…a huge area, with barbed wire fences for miles…anyway, at one stage we heard what sounded to us like a shark alarm, and we laughed and said they’re about to blow us up…and sure enough there WAS the sound of a huge explosion…but on we went and came to Villeneuve Sur Cher, about 9 kms. No cafes open, but we found a shaded picnic table by the river for lunch…perfect.

    Then we had to strike out from the chemin. Our lodging tonight is in St Florent sur Cher, about 5 kms off route, and we set off along the road - only made the day’s total to 16 kms, and this was planned, not a surprise! It was getting hot by now, so we were SO glad to arrive at the town…a woman stopped her car to ask us if we were walking the chemin de Compostelle and was quite excited as she had walked parts of it, and even offered us a lift, but we were almost there, she said take a left down the hill and it sounded easy. All we knew was that we were staying at a gîte called Le Faisanderie.

    That was when the complications started (we probably should have taken the lift!)…we turned left into rue de la faisanderie, and it was a street with houses, but no gîte…we asked some people and they said it was a long way (our hearts dropped)…but she only meant about 10 mins walk thank goodness, but we ploughed on getting discouraged as no sign…another woman said yes, keep on, in the forêt, and we followed the path and found a beautiful huge estate, with closed gates, no sign “Le Faisanderie”….at this point I sat in the shade under a tree, and Amr called the number of the place…yes, this was the house, were there animals - yes we’d seen 2 horses wandering round, and some dogs…yes, this was right - shed phone her son in law who was minding it with her daughter (she herself was on holiday)…so Roman came and welcomed us, lovely and even spoke very good English, and Anna his partner who is German and an English teacher. She is cooking dinner tonight.

    But the amazing thing is the accommodation. That is - ours. It is a huge estate with garden, woods, various separate buildings, animals and 2 peacocks just walked past as I’m writing this. (At the moment we are sitting beside the pool, having cooled off with a beer)! There is a small row of bedrooms like a gîte, which is apparently full tonight. But our place is a little separate gypsy caravan!! It is quite amazing as you will see…tiny and perfect…complete with bathroom, and even a kitchen area! Another unique experience….so happy!    Read more

  • TravelerEscape to USA, France and UK
    1
    111
    Day 41

    More conventional today - at Issoudun

    September 8, 2021 in France ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    It is almost 4 o’clock and still so hot…it says 29°, feels like 31° on the app, and certainly feels like it. But am sitting up in a conventional hotel room in Issoudun, very nice, Amr is doing yoga and I must do some yin as I felt a tingle in my SI joint again…the thunderstorm is predicted for about 7 pm and I think it will be a relief and cool everything. I gather there has been a very cool and wet August and most people are delighted with the hot burst…but not me. It was good to get moving again after our lazy rest day in Bourges. It was better to be walking and doing something, than not getting the energy to get up when you don’t have to! But today we were very clever we thought.

    Our instructions were to walk from St Florent to Issoudun. We had walked more than 5 kms off the track to get to St Florent from Villeneuve, and from Villeneuve to Issoudun added up to about 23 looking at the instructions…total of possible 28 kms…so we called the taxi to get a lift back, and he was the same taxi that was booked to take our bags anyway, so no problems. And a bonus was that, as it was going to be so hot today still, we got the taxi to drop us at a closer town - Chârost - so we only had to walk about 17 kms by the time we got to the hotel - Les Trois Rois. Thank god, because I’m still boiling.

    Last night remained a delight..we had dinner outside by the pool…salad and a veg tart (all from the garden of course) and chicken and potatoes, goat cheese and melon. Just divine…still light till 8.30-9pm. We found out that the main house was once a Royal hunting lodge in the days when kings and princes went hunting. Now such a peaceful oasis.

    Went back to our little caravan after dinner - amazing how everything worked in that small space…Amr had to watch his head with one low beam, but otherwise all you could want..perfectly functioning bathroom, even a TV! It took a while for the cool evening air to enter and cool the place down - but Amr annoyingly fell fast asleep at 9.15!! It took we till after 11, because firstly it was much too early for me, and also I had to wait till the air got deliciously cooler…that is one thing here…there is usually just a big doona on the bed, so it is all or nothing…no chance of a light covering.

    Breakfast again outside by the pool and we hopped in the taxi with our luggage at 9 am. Uneventful walk, but still the vast fields in every direction, with occasional clumps of trees in the middle. Got a little off track on our way in through a boring rather industrial part, we cut across a field as we could see the main road we would soon need…came across a big supermarket and bought supplies for lunch, and for tomorrow, and walked on an sat in a little square on a shady seat, and found we were exactly where we should have arrived, from a different road, by the correct route. Easy to find our hotel, and now showered etc will go and explore before the storm…    Read more

  • TravelerEscape to USA, France and UK
    21
    Day 42

    Neuvy Pailloux - cooler and easier

    September 9, 2021 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    First I will relate the end of yesterday, Wednesday, as again we had one of those surprise fabulous dinners. First we looked round Issoudun which was a more bustling small town than we’d almost seen anywhere. Shops were open and there were people visibly doing things and bars open in the main square. We tracked down our walking route out of town for this morning, not difficult, and then sat in the square for a beer. Still extremely hot.

    Dinner was 7.30, and in our little hotel. Arriving at the dining room we could see we were in for a treat. Immaculately set tables, Paul approved glasses, and lovely menu. I started with a “taboulé”of tuna, quinoa and herbs with an amazing sauce, Amr had carpaccio of tête de veau, we both had pan fried whole trout with amazing vegetables (note in the photo the little plastic bird that is in fact a lemon squeezer) (and don’t note my face which was still blazing from the heat). On the list for desserts and fromages there was “omelette norvégien” and I asked what it was, imagining some cheesy eggy thing, but she said meringue, and it turned out to be a sort of mini bomb alaska!! (I guess that’s where the Norwegian came in)…So we shared one! Such a lovely way to end rather a hot and less interesting day.

    So this morning we set off before 9 as we wanted to arrive at Neuvy Pailloux by 2pm, as Cécile had warned us that the hotel reception would be closed between 2 and 5. Easy, as only about 15 kms, and it turned out to be an easy and pleasant walk. It was still more of the same open plains - ploughed fields, sunflowers and today some rapeseed for the first time. But the difference was it was cool!! It did rain in the night, though not thunder, and the temperature had dropped to a very pleasant level, and there was mostly a high cloud cover - made all the difference. The directions were clear, and the signage good. We had to turn off the true path at Thizay - a small town, and come 2 kms off track to here and our hotel. I think it is the only place between Issoudun and Châteauroux where we go tomorrow, so will have to walk the extra kms back to the track, plus the 21 km on to Châteauroux, so a longer day tomorrow, but we know and will take it easy.

    Meanwhile we are having a wonderful afternoon of leisure in our big, airy room, catching up on reading, emails, news (Amr!) as the village of Neuvy Pailloux is tiny, and we have already seen it. Dinner here tonight. They were doing a roaring trade at lunch time, but I don’t anticipate an experience like last night (this hotel is on a big main road), but you never know - this is France.    Read more

  • TravelerEscape to USA, France and UK
    Day 43

    At Châteauroux - a city

    September 10, 2021 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    A rather arduous day today, in total we have walked about 27 kms, including walking back to the chemin from Neuvy Pailloux (3 kms from the hotel) and extra walking now and then to see which route had signs! Anyway, we survived with no aches or pains, just rather tired!

    But again, I have the dinner from last night to report…again, it was amazing. Our hotel, which was rather equivalent to a roadside motel, produced the most beautiful food - in taste and presentation. Even a fancy and delicious amuse bouche to start. We drink local wine usually, not on the international market, but we love it. This dinner Amr started with a lentil and fish dish, and I had a gazpacho (with many side garnishes), Amr had fish and I had duck for mains. Both fantastic, and the accompanying vegetables were all little specialties in themselves…hard to describe. Imagine perfectly smooth mashed potato, wrapped in a cylinder of a very fine potato crisp, planted with chives and a nasturtium!

    Today I felt a little seedy, and I think it may be due to an overdose of this wonderful food - having to acclimatise to the butter and cream used to make it all so delicious. It doesn’t feel heavy at the time, but tonight we may seek out a Vietnamese meal (no hotel dinner tonight - we are on our own), and something very light.

    Setting off this morning it was cool - 18° - and some moisture in the air. It had rained quite heavily yesterday late afternoon, and a little during the night. After a while we took out ponchos, but refrained from actually putting them on, and it all cleared up, and during the long walk it was even sunny and a little too hot by the end. But a breeze, and mostly lovely walking conditions. One funny incident was when Amr was exploring a potential path (wrong as it turned out) - he saw 14 rusted Citroens from the 30s all sitting in a row in a field!!

    The first part was very pretty and comfortable but the last half of the walk got a little tedious as we approached Châteauroux. There was some highway walking, and then when we took the path around the city, a sort of ring road path, the signage through the fields got very poor and we just ploughed on and hoped, and then suddenly the signs would turn up again. It is always tedious entering cities, but we made it, and when we approached the centre Amr turned on his Google maps to lead us to the hotel. We got here just before 4 pm, so quite a long day. Cute hotel, small room, all good. We will sleep well tonight.    Read more

  • TravelerEscape to USA, France and UK
    Day 44

    A delightful day - Argenton-sur-Creuse

    September 11, 2021 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Last night we had our Vietnamese dinner, lovely light meal, and lovely flavours that we haven’t had since before the lockdown in Sydney! Had breakfast in our cute little hotel - Hotel Élysée - which is on a corner by a roundabout. We of course had the window wide open, and there was quite a lot of noise going on when we went to bed - Friday night in the city, and people hooning round the roundabout…we are fairly used to noise and went to sleep, but in the early hours both woke to a lot of racket and closed the window - it was by then cool and airy - and there was absolute silence.! It was uncanny, realised there was double glazing on inspection, but it kept out every sound….Pity we didn’t realise it earlier, I would have overcome my need for fresh air!

    So this morning after breakfast at 9 sharp a taxi arrived to collect us and our bags. We were getting a 20 km lift to a tiny town so that we only had 15 kms to walk here - to Argenton-sur-Creuse….and the bags were carried on to the hotel! What a perfect system. And the walk today was also perfect…good signage, very pretty countryside through forests and rolling hills, and comfortable walking weather. We have finally, for the moment anyway, left the open expanses of grain fields, and walked through wooded paths, little country roads, past many castles and, being Saturday, we again even saw signs of a wedding at one of the castle entrances with flowers and names! Only 15 kms seemed a breeze after yesterday’s long effort, so we were very relaxed - had picnic lunch after about 10 kms, stopped for coffee/chocolate and wandered in at about 2.30. Hotel expected us, bags in room (excellent as upstairs, no ascenseur)!

    After the usual showering/washing and a bit of downtime we ventured out to see the town - it has been called the “Venice of Berry” so we were expecting something good. Well it didn’t disappoint - this is such a beautiful place. Venice made us think of canals, but there are none - just the Creuse river snaking through the town, and picturesque houses built on the banks, old bridges, just a lovely feel. And plenty of life, people out and about, enjoying a lovely Saturday. There is a high side of the town - a bit like Buda and Pest, and we climbed up to the high side where there is a chapel looking over the town. Then had a drink in the square and now back and relaxing before dinner, which is in the hotel tonight.

    Tomorrow should not be arduous either - 14 kms to Gargilesse, where we stay 2 nights. It is a small place, been named one of the “plus beaux villages de France “ so should be a pleasant sojourn.

    I will add photos here of the walk, and then make a separate entry for the Argenton photos, too many for one entry (you can only have 6) and they are so beautiful.    Read more

  • TravelerEscape to USA, France and UK
    1
    131
    Day 44

    Argenton-sur-Creuse photos

    September 11, 2021 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    An extra instalment to show the beauty of this town, and to mention dinner - again! Just back from dining at this little 2 star hotel - le Cheval Noir - and of course it was perfect. We always have Paul approved glasses these days (except at the Vietnamese!) and the presentation and taste is amazing. Amr started with a lentil salad and foie gras, and I had a scallop and prawn dish, and he had a pork and veg (with mash to rival Paul’s) and I had fish…all perfect.

    The photos of the town are rather good as the light was so good, sun shining behind clouds..such a lovely place.    Read more

  • TravelerEscape to USA, France and UK
    21
    Day 45

    At Gargilesse, very pretty village

    September 12, 2021 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Truly beautiful walk today, and only 14 kms, but there was one arduous section. We set off in the delicious cool, about 12° I think, and followed the path through just gorgeous woods, along a straight path that was once a train track, and through small villages and farms. Some ups and downs as we were near the Creuse, and it goes through a valley with fairly steep banks on each side.

    The difficult part came when we were well past half way, had walked by the river admiring the gorgeousness and came to a dam. Then the instructions were to go left up some steps and climb up between the rocks…and this did indeed involve clambering up the very steep hillside, grabbing branches, easier on hands and knees, but tricky with sticks and backpack… that didn’t last too long, but was a relief to reach the top!! Then it was quite easy, along roads and we knew we were only a couple of kms to Gargilesse.

    Just after our climb a man saw us and suggested a prettier way to walk here, through the woods instead of taking the road…at that point we didn’t feel at all like plunging back into the bush..he said there was a track, but they always have intersections and we felt we could get hopelessly lost! When we did arrive here, to this village on the side of a hill, we were glad we didn’t risk it, looking down at the wilderness! I think we disappointed the man…People here are so friendly and helpful everywhere we go…

    Arrived and had a beer at a little establishment as we walked in. From there we realised we could see our hotel - hotel des Artistes - just down the road…so easy this time. There are only 2 hotels anyway, and we did see a gîte, but a tiny village, totally picturesque, and a bit of an artists’ colony. George Sand is very big here (the other hotel is hotel George Sand!) as she lived here and loved the countryside here during her colourful life. Tonight we dine at our hotel, and tomorrow at George S, as our restaurant part is closed Monday. When we arrived at about 1.30 the restaurant was complet with Sunday lunch diners, and the fraught waitress didn’t want to deal with us (I can sympathise- she looked run off her feet!) but she took pity, our bags were there and she gave us the key…

    Amr found a much friendlier man - the boss I think - who was very friendly. He asked us how we had got out of Australia! He couldn’t believe we were here walking and having a holiday. The rules in Oz are getting notoriety everywhere it seems. Amr also found out from the man that we could have a bag of washing done for €7…excellent!

    We had an initial walk around, not far to go, and every house is charming. There is a château and a church that we will visit tomorrow, and explore down near the little river - the Gargilesse, which runs into the Creuse. But otherwise we will relax and enjoy our rest day and start walking again on Tuesday.    Read more

  • TravelerEscape to USA, France and UK
    1
    Day 46

    Quiet, lazy day at Gargilesse

    September 13, 2021 in France ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We have had a lovely lazy day. Very therapeutic I think, though it goes against all instincts to be so idle!! This is a tiny place, so it didn’t take long to explore further than we did yesterday, but the houses and surrounding countryside is really exquisite. We had a bit of a walk after breakfast, discovered where we must walk out tomorrow, as even in small places like this the markings are hard to find among buildings.

    Having established that we walked along the little roads along the Gargilesse river (stream really) and got to where it joins the Creuse. We met a man on the bridge at the confluence who said that the river is very low at the moment because the dam (where we clambered) is under repair and is letting the water flow, so none building up as it usually would. It was very pretty though. And we went into the 12C Romanesque church. Very beautiful and amazing frescoes in the crypt.

    Came back to our room for a bit, and realised that there is nowhere to buy food for lunch today…so we went up to the bar where we had beers on arrival yesterday and had coffee/chocolate and they could offer a croissant! I remembered the muesli bars I have, and so we are quite ready for dinner at the George Sand restaurant tonight!

    This town is so small, but there is a constant flow of people coming through. Tourists I mean. Many retired-aged groups, or individuals, or cyclists and hikers. They appear, wander round, admire and take photos! We sat for a couple of hours on a bench in the place du château and watched the passing parade as we read our kindles. Very peaceful day. Our hotel is also very quiet. On Monday the restaurant is closed, so no passing people wanting lunch, and the whole place closed except for our secret hotel side entrance.

    Tomorrow we walk about 20kms to Crozant, and the walk sounds as if it continues on this gorgeous path of forests and rivers - and lakes - we will stay at the hôtel du Lac…sounds lovely! Hope there’s not too much clambering!    Read more

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