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The Camino Revisited 2018

Agustus - November 2018
We are off to walk the Camino in Spain again, this time starting in Pamplona and finishing in Finisterre, 42 days of walking, with some rest days interspersed. Week first in San Diego visiting Michael’s family, and 6 days in San Francisco on return. Baca selengkapnya
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  • PelancongThe Camino Revisited 2018
    Hari 24

    Walk to San Juan de Ortega

    15 September 2018, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Here we are at San Juan de Ortega, and there IS wifi!! In the years since 2013 the guy must have been hounded so much that he finally moved into the 21st century. Don’t know if it will cope with photos, but will try and see. Well, our day....we left Belorado at 8.30 and walked 25.3kms to this tiny place. It says in the book, population 20! There is just a church, beautiful and massive, an albergue, a bar and a hotel....all run by the guy in the bar (not the church)...so a bit chaotic, but the rooms are good, water hot and this area very peaceful. We will have dinner over in the bar with the crowd from the albergue as well, and breakfast is a plastic bag of food given to us tonight!! (Probably a box of OJ, a roll and croissant in cellophane wrapping!)...so we will leave whenever we like in the morning, and stop at the first available bar along the way for coffee and proper sustenance.

    It was a very different walk today, leaving Belorado we continued for a while with the fields and sunflowers, but after reaching a town - Villafranca Montes de Oca - it all changed. We climbed steeply out of the town and up the “mountain” - really big hills here. But it was a magic change - amazing panoramas on all sides, and we found ourselves walking through oak and pine forests, with purple heather, and shade!! So lovely. There was some more gradual ascent, and some level parts. The sun emerged from the morning clouds at 10am so we were very glad of the shade. Stopped for lunch on a shaded seat looking over the valley - had bought some yum local cheese (not unlike Manchego) and had crackers, dates and dried chorizo that we had bought at the supermercado in Belorado for today and tomorrow.

    It was a long walk to finally arrive here, but we do well...we walk at a consistent fairly slow pace - not power walking, and slower than when we do our walks in Manly...but we find it works...we have plenty of reserve and can go up the hills, still slowly, but without getting puffed, and can continue for a long time. Still it was good to arrive this afternoon, as it did get really hot in any unshaded parts.

    We have a nice room, on the ground floor (a huge plus as no bad lugging up stairs) and with the usual two beds put together. This has the advantage that we do each get our own pillow! A few nights ago we actually had a double bed, but the problem was that we had just the one long pillow, and neither of us could do our individual pillow thing!!

    Tomorrow we walk into Burgos, another fairly long walk but not hilly. But there is the boring long entry into the city. We are going to try to do this by an alternate route by the river which will be good if we find it!

    Now will post this and see if it works. Hallelujah!    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongThe Camino Revisited 2018
    Hari 25

    Burgos - here for 2 nights

    16 September 2018, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Photos from yesterday didn’t upload, but at least the words did. We are now at a very comfortable, modern hotel in Burgos, but the wifi is a bit weak I think, so will write up the day first, then experiment with photos.

    It was, as anticipated a long walk - ended up being 26 kms - though despite our reading up and studying maps, we missed the route we wanted into the city, and ended up walking along a road - first a quiet country road, then a long circuit of the airport, then a straight divided road with a footpath into the city centre through an industrial area - dead quiet on a Sunday afternoon - and once we realised what we had done, we weren’t too unhappy as it was easier than the alternative industrial route we did last time which was very tiresome. We had hoped to go along the river, our best option, but once we realised we had missed a turn it was much too late to go back. It didn’t make much difference distance-wise. And we did end up along the river, but when we got more into the centre...luckily we are familiar enough with Burgos that we worked out how to walk in, and where to find our hotel easily...it was just a long hot 26+ kms!

    But first must mention dinner last night at San Juan. There is no choice of eatery, and all the hotel people ate in the dining room at the bar...we were at a table next to the other Aussies - Jodi the yoga teacher, and Michael and Claire - the father/daughter from Bonnet Bay (and Claire went to the same primary school as Jess, Liv and Ted!). At our table were 2 French walkers who spoke almost no English, so we had a hilarious time speaking French to them, English with the Aussies and Spanish with the waiter (who of course knew them all - enough for waitering anyway)...Amr was very good switching languages constantly, i was much slower getting my brain changing, but it was fun.

    So this morning everyone set out early, as we had been given a bag with food for breakfast the night before, so we didn’t need to wait for breakfast in the dining room, which is usually 7.30. So by daylight most of us went. We left around 7.40, sun rises at about 7.50 now I think, so it was rather beautiful. And the first part was very beautiful - through pine forest, fairly level, a perfect start. At the first village we stopped for a really good coffee, so all was well. Then we went along a bit and climbed quite a high alto and finally saw Burgos in the distance. It looked not all that far away, but that was in fact the beginning of the long hot part! We zigzagged down, took the unwanted wrong turn which is also marked with Camino signs, and began our long journey on hard road surface. But whichever way, it is a long journey into the city and we are very happy to be here. And to have a whole day tomorrow to wander round and see the beautiful buildings and of course the cathedral.

    Amr, surprisingly is now at the laundromat! We shed all our smelly clothes and will have a fresh start! A good feeling, and all very relaxing. When he gets back we will hit the town. Now to try to publish, and add some photos!    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongThe Camino Revisited 2018
    Hari 25

    Photos from yesterday - to San Juan

    16 September 2018, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Will try with just 3, and see how it goes. Photos seem to need such strong wifi to upload...

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  • PelancongThe Camino Revisited 2018
    1
    Hari 25

    Now photos on walk to Burgos

    16 September 2018, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    A miracle, the photos went, after an agonisingly long time, and on the second attempt when I put my iPad near the door, not out on the alcove in our room where I had been sitting! So will have another go...not many today anyway, as the walk in to the city is not picturesque. But lovely early morning light, and the view of Burgos in the distance.Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongThe Camino Revisited 2018
    Hari 26

    A day in Burgos

    17 September 2018, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We did hit the town yesterday afternoon when Amr came back from the laundromat bearing a bag of lovely clean clothes. This is such a beautiful city! Squares, trees, narrow streets interspersed with narrow car streets, a rapidly flowing little river and the most magnificent cathedral I have ever seen. It is a little strange to be mixing with normal people, not just walking peregrinos! So yesterday afternoon we just walked around, found familiar places, had a glass of wine and some tapas in a square near our hotel of 5 years ago. The Plaza Mayor, which is surrounded with lovely buildings and is a truly beautiful plaza sadly is being repaved and there are work barricades and barriers everywhere...so it is not seen to its best advantage at the moment! We ended up eating at a place we saw that had tempting food on its list, and had a fairly early night...

    Totally refreshed with a night’s sleep, and we have had a good day. Set off after breakfast to visit the Monasterio de las Huelas, not seen last visit and sounds like a jewel. It was about a 20 minute walk through quite salubrious tree-lined streets only to find it was closed Mondays...a disappointment, but we could see a little through the fence but not the good part inside...so a pleasant walk back along the river and we went to the Castillo, also not seen before. This is high above the city, even looking down on the cathedral, with a panoramic view. A hot walk up many steps, but very interesting. It is really just the ruins of the castle originally built in the XII century, and gone through many phases since. The last was used by Napoleon’s troops, and the French blew up one side before they were sent back in the Spanish war of independence....this war against the French frequently comes up in museums, paintings etc.

    On our return down the hill we had a little refreshment in a cafe along the beautiful tree-lined promenade along the river. This is such a lovely area, and we are going to return there with kindles soon. After our sugar levels restored, we finally indulged in a visit to the cathedral. Such a wondrous building...different chapels added over the centuries and everywhere so exquisitely carved and decorated...you automatically get an audio guide- so much to take in....and impossible to capture in photos. It is at the bottom of the hill, and there are different levels...I took an exterior photo of an magnificent door, and found inside there was an intricate staircase leading up to it in one of the chapels (it is kept closed now) as the level of the floor was metres lower after several stages of re-building.

    So now some downtime. I can almost understand the Spanish need for a siesta, if they live in this climate...the mornings are cool and refreshing, almost too cold, then it gradually heats up with an extremely bright sunlight until in the afternoon it is uncomfortably hot and bright, then at sunset it slowly cools off and becomes cold again over night. I know that sounds normal, but each phase seems very extreme here. Last night our room was still quite hot and we went to sleep with only a sheet half on, but during the night we needed to pull up the duna...we have since discovered that the air conditioning only works when the window is closed, and we had it wide open to let in the lovely cool air!!

    The wifi is again weak, will send this off and then try photos as usual. Cathy suggests lower resolution, but they are just taken on my phone and should not be too difficult normally...and I don’t know how to change it!    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongThe Camino Revisited 2018
    1
    Hari 26

    Photos in Burgos

    17 September 2018, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Will have a shot at the photos...one of the view from the castle down to the city, and the door of the cathedral in the street, and the interior with the staircase leading up to it.

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  • PelancongThe Camino Revisited 2018
    2
    Hari 26

    Just 2 more of the parkway by the river

    17 September 2018, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Will just try 2 more...

  • PelancongThe Camino Revisited 2018
    11
    Hari 27

    Now walking on the maseta

    18 September 2018, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    This morning we left Burgos at 8 am, and have now started walking on the maseta- such a different world, and so beautiful. It was a 21.5 km walk along very easy gradient, though totally exposed ...the thunderstorm that was predicted for Burgos at 1 pm certainly hasn’t come here - it is cloudless and brilliant sunshine. We are in a small town Hornillos del Camino, in a very lovely casa rural, in an attic room - up to which the busy and delightful host, Samuel, carried both our bags! We have a sloping ceiling and a skylight...very cute, but I must be careful not to hit my head getting out of bed! We are both ecstatic because the wifi is GOOD!

    Now, to report from yesterday afternoon...we went to have our kindle time in the park, and out of the blue raindrops fell...we ignored at first, but it did become serious for about 15 minutes, so we took shelter in a delightful bar, where we had a glass of Rioja in Paul approved glasses!! Then, knowing the next day we started walking again, we went for dinner at 7 pm, the earliest available time! Not a spectacular meal, but we were sitting next to an English couple, who had interesting accents - he was Geordie and she was from Yorkshire....they have been living in Spain for the last 7 years, but we were amazed that they didn’t seem to have the basic elements of Spanish...asked for “vin rouge” (maybe thought it was “European”) or just spoke to the waiter in English...and difficulty explaining what size beer he wanted!! I think walking the Camino was a foreign concept to them! Pleasant enough otherwise!

    So we left beautiful Burgos, and not an unpleasant walk out of the city in the westerly direction, the industrial area seems to be mainly in the east, past the university and out into the countryside again, which gradually turned into the open undulating spaces of the Maseta. It was pretty relentlessly sunny, with occasional breeze, but we did find an oasis to have lunch - a group of shady trees where there is a well from which you can pump up very cold water....just what you need at that point. With tables and seats. Perfect. We had bought more cheese at Burgos and had apples and dates still.

    So we had strength for the last 5 kms or so to Hornillos del Camino. We had a very gentle rise, and saw it down the hill several kms away. Will try to add photos as this wifi may cope! Tomorrow another 20 kms to Castrojeriz.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongThe Camino Revisited 2018
    Hari 28

    Now in Castrojeriz

    19 September 2018, Spanyol ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today was a lovely 20.89 km walk to Castrojeriz - starting at 8 am with a delicious 13°temperature and a little fog in the valley where Hornillos del Camino is. As we gradually rose on a very gentle gradient we emerged out of the mist, but the cloudless day remained cool and pleasant for a couple of hours! Such wide open spaces (must be amazing at night to see the stars here) and yet there is variation, and dips and little rivers...I never find it boring...there is stubble from fields of wheat, oats and barley, and still lots of dying and blackening sunflowers, not yet quite ready for harvest. And there are fields of what I now know is lucerne, or alfalfa. Just lovely. Stopped at the halfway point for a fresh OJ, and had lunch near the ruins of a convent just before approach to Castrojeriz. An easy walk, but we were hot by the time we got to the hotel...you see the town in the distance for several kilometres, and as it was early we elected to detour via the church - as the Camino directs us to...then it is a long walk to the actual town, which is a long thin strip at the bottom of a hill, on top of which is another ruined church.

    So we are here and showered and washing done and all good. Many of the people we meet along the way are staying here and tonight we plan to have dinner with an American couple, Melanie and Jim. As we set off this morning we again ran into the Canadian sisters, Judy and Dorothy, who are also here, as well as 2 women from NY state and the Aussie father/daughter combo, Michael and Claire. We are all in a rhythm at the moment as these towns are about 20 kms apart, so we see the same people from time to time...there are also a group (or several groups?) of Germans and French, who are all becoming familiar. A good feeling of camaraderie.

    I don’t know how strong the wifi is here, but am hoping! Amr is ecstatic that yesterday’s wifi was so good - he upgraded all his devices, downloaded everything he wanted to, caught up with his emails..!! It was unexpected, as it was a small casa rural. And our attic room, though very sweet, never cooled off as much as I would have liked overnight, despite Amr opening the skylight as wide as he could reach. However, no complaint, and good coffee in the morning! Amr says the wifi is acceptable here!! But I think I’ll send the words first, then try for photos and see how we go.    Baca selengkapnya

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