USA, UK and Norway

August - October 2019
We start with a week in San Diego visiting Michael’s family. We fly to London and spend 6 days there, then north to spend time with Omnia and Gill and Bob. Next the 12 day walk along Hadrian’s Wall and then Norway and a boat up the coast and fjords Read more
  • 53footprints
  • 6countries
  • 58days
  • 205photos
  • 0videos
  • 35.4kkilometers
  • 29.8kkilometers
  • Day 16

    Another fabulous day

    September 14, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It was truly another great day! Now sitting in bed, having just been watching the last night of the Proms live, singing along with Rule Britannia, Land of Hope and Glory and Jerusalem and feeling the vibe, especially as we were there in the Royal Albert Hall just a few days ago!!

    But to start at the beginning, we set out this morning and walked from Earls Court to Covent Garden, cutting through Hyde Park. I haven’t been talking about the weather since we arrived here, and that is because it is so good, just so comfortable - not too hot or cold!!! And today was a beautiful cloudless Saturday and Londoners were out and enjoying it. We have so enjoyed the feeling here...it is busy but doesn’t feel uncomfortably crowded, and people are so cheerful and friendly. In Covent Garden there were lots of people of course, many buskers being cheered by crowds. Omnia left us about 1 o’clock as she had arranged to meet friends, and we had tickets for a play - Bitter Wheat - a play with John Malkovich playing a ghastly Harvey Weinstein person, very clever and entertaining in a rather horrible way! Fun to see John Malkovich live though, even in this awful role.

    Then we wandered a bit more till it was time for our dinner at Nopi, an Ottolenghi restaurant just behind Regent Street. We went there last visit to London and love it. We booked the downstairs part, which is less formal, sitting at a large communal table, with the kitchen in view...much nicer than the noisier and less intimate upstairs...and the food as usual is amazing. Ottolenghi’s creative combinations. We had several share dishes - things like grilled octopus with watermelon and coconut! All were delicious.

    So back at the hotel by about 9.30, in time to watch the Proms and write this up. Perfect. Will put photos that show the vibe of the day.
    Read more

  • Day 17

    Last London day

    September 15, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Yet again it is balmy sunny weather. Londoners are in heaven enjoying it, sitting in parks and basking. And of course it is great for visitors too!

    Today Omnia was seeing more friends, and we had an arrangement to meet Kate Gorely at about midday. We love seeing her, the only Gorely who lives in London, and she had also organised for Minty and Oriana (her cousins, my cousin Susan’s daughters) to come too. Such fun. I had seen Oriana a few years ago when she was in Oz, but don’t think I’d seen Minty (Araminta) for about 20 years, when she was running a vodka bar In Soho!! So we met at Brixton, near-ish to where Kate and Oriana live, and had a leisurely light lunch in a Brixton pub, in the garden courtyard. Very pleasant, and a lovely catch up.

    Amr and I had walked from the hotel to Victoria this morning, where we caught the tube to Brixton, and coming back we got the train to Green Park and walked back from there so we have had our dose of walking for the day. Amr’s Apple Watch says we walked about 17 kms....we have to keep ready for the official walk in a week’s time!

    Now back and about to have an Indian meal with Omnia. Another really lovely day.
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Now in Liverpool

    September 17, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    It’s now Tuesday morning and I should write up yesterday briefly before we start our day. It was a travel day, just a train to Liverpool, but it took quite a while! We had booked online and got a very cheap fare, direct non stop from London Euston to Liverpool Lime Street, but discovered that it in fact took almost 4 hours, compared with the 2 hour fast ones! Didn’t matter, quite pleasant on the train - we made many stops - went through Rugby, Leeds, Coventry, Birmingham, Wolverhampton, and many others!!! Only drama was that we got behind schedule and at the 2nd last stop they said we couldn’t go on to Lime Street (Liverpool central station) maybe they lost their slot at a platform? Anyway, we were all off loaded wondering what was happening, but luckily we had Omnia calling to say that it was as easy to pick us up there, so we could leave all the chaos and go with her. Omnia had also got the train back to Liverpool, but she was on a train that left a bit after us, but arrived over an hour earlier, so she had time to get her car to pick us up...

    So now we are here at her very charming house for 2 nights. Last night we had dinner at the house of a delightful colleague of hers. A young, vibrant Egyptian doctor (Egyptian by birth but essentially English) with her husband and 2 sons. Great fun, and delicious meal - Egyptian hospitality and food. Now off to start this day. No photos yet.
    Read more

  • Day 19

    Our Liverpool Day

    September 17, 2019 in England ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    I almost forgot to write up today, so am now sitting up in bed, hoping to have an early-ish night...now 10.45, so will try to think quickly!

    It is a bit cooler here than London, and we are wearing jackets and warmer clothes at last! But it was cloudy at first, then sunny, so another gorgeous day. We just hope all the rain and bad weather is t waiting till we are walking next week!

    So this morning Omnia dropped us off at a walking track beside the river - Mersey - which leads into the city, about a 6 km walk. Lovely walk, especially as we hadn’t walked hardly at all yesterday. Walked round the waterfront area - shops etc, and had coffee there, then into the central shopping mall -like area. Had a small lunch - found a tapas bar (again) and had our favourite pimientos al padron, just like in Spain. Then at 2 we met Omnia at the Apple store as she was buying a new iPad, and of course Amr was giving advice!

    Had some down time after we got back, then went out to dinner at a nearby North African restaurant, new since our last visit, and met some friends we knew from before - very nice Father, mother and daughter. And the food was absolutely delicious. Small share plates, not unlike Ottolenghi in combinations and flavours.

    Tomorrow we set off again, getting a train (2 actually) to Buxton. A busy fun week. Will include a photo of dinner last night. Lovely family and amazing feast! The 2 sons with their Afro hair...the younger one, aged 11 I think, has been picked by the Liverpool football club to be trained as a future star player - he is in a rigorous programme of training, even at this age!!! They go all over the country, and Europe for matches...he must be good!
    Read more

  • Day 20

    Train to Buxton

    September 18, 2019 in England ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Another fun day! Amr and I started by having a walk along a cycling/walking track near Omnia’s house where we have walked before...as we were embarking on another train journey. Not such a long one this time, but involved 2 trains, changing at Manchester Piccadilly. Omnia drove us to Lime Street, and on the way we passed the famous Beatles landmark Strawberry Fields.

    Each train journey was about an hour, all on time and efficient, and we chugged through lovely countryside arriving at Buxton about 3.30. Gill and Bob met us at the station. Lovely to see them! They just got back last night from 10 days in Crete.

    Checked into the hotel and had a little walk in this very charming town. Had early dinner in a pub (pie and beer!) and went to the Opera House, a lovely old theatre, as we had tickets for an evening listening to Ranulph Fiennes. Gill had seen that this was on and we had agreed we’d all love to go. And it was absolutely fantastic. What a man! Explorer and adventurer, broken all sorts of records crossing Antarctica, circling the world on water and land via the Poles...and at 75 he’s still going. He was extremely funny, speaking in a droll deadpan way about his exploits. So that was a highlight. Tomorrow a full day here with Gill and Bob.
    Read more

  • Day 21

    A Day in rhe Peak District

    September 19, 2019 in England ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    A fabulous day. Met Gill and Bob for breakfast and they had worked out a plan for the day - our one full day together. Instead of wandering round Buxton, they took us round the area in the car, visiting and passing through so many picturesque villages - stone houses, pretty gardens - going on 2 walks - one beside a small stream and at the end of the day we went up to a high rocky edge which we walked up and what a wonderful view from the top over the whole countryside. And again it was perfect weather! After starting quite cold in the morning (about 10° I think) it warmed up until we only needed t-shirts walking in the sun. Then deliciously cools off again after sunset. This wonderful weather now makes me nervous for what will be in store for us next week!

    A highlight of the day was a visit to Chatsworth - the Stately Home and estate of the dukes of Devonshire. It is in this area so we drove in and parked and walked round the grounds. It is enormous and you can pay quite a lot and visit inside the house and garden, but that would be a serious several hours, so we walked and admired from outside.

    One small town we stopped in was Bakewell, very pretty, where we bought cheese and had a tea break, with their local specialty Bakewell tart, and we stopped for a beer and nibbles before we did the walk up the ridge. So we were nicely hungry when we returned to Buxton and had a Thai meal. We had seen the restaurant last night and that it was busy and full so thought we’d try it. Excellent, and now ready for bed.
    Read more

  • Day 22

    Buxton to Carlisle

    September 20, 2019 in England ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    A very varied day. We heard from Carole and John yesterday that they had arrived in Edinburgh but that their bags had not, and that they may not be able to meet us in Carlisle today as planned...frustrating situation, people didn’t seem to know where they were....anyway, to cut a long story short (bags mis-tagged etc) the bags miraculously arrived this morning, and all the original plans came back into action- and we have met them here in Carlisle this evening, had dinner together and all is well!

    So to start at the beginning of the day, we met Gill and Bob who had to leave early afternoon to drive almost to London for a 50th wedding anniversary with friends. But we spent a lovely morning with them. First had breakfast and had substantial food, brunch really, and it did keep us going till dinner. Then Gill knew a nearby walk up to another high spot above Buxton and it was magnificent. On top is Solomon’s temple, nothing to do with king Solomon or religion, but I believe I was a folly of one of the Dukes of Devonshire a few hundred years ago. Anyway, it had a magnificent view over Buxton and the surrounding countryside and amr says we walked about 12 kms, so that was good before our train journey.

    We got to the train station early as we had checked out of the hotel, and Gill and Bob had gone, and realised we could catch any train back to Manchester as they were not booked seats and local trains, and also the second train from Manchester to Preston which was similarly unbooked seats, but this second one turned out to be extremely busy, and we were glad we weren’t even later on a Friday afternoon. Each journey was almost an hour, and we got to Preston in tons of time to find the platform for our last train to Carlisle. We had to wait for the correct train this time as it was a big express from London to Edinburgh and thank goodness we did have seats as it was also madly crowded.

    All went well and we are now safely ensconced in our Ibis near the station and have enjoyed catching up with Carole and John, and ready for new adventures.
    Read more

  • Day 23

    Now at the Walk's StartingPoint

    September 21, 2019 in England ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We spent a few hours this morning in Carlisle looking around. A beautiful cathedral - 12th century- and a castle. And another cloudless day! At midday we assembled at the hotel and took a taxi to here - Bowness on Solway. Solway is the firth of Solway, the other side is Scotland. At low tide, which it is this afternoon, there is just a small amount of visible water, but fills up when the tide comes in. Such a delightful very small town, and we are staying at an extremely charming B and B, which was the old rectory of the nearby church and just round the corner from the only pub, the King’s Arms where we are having dinner.

    We couldn’t check into our rooms till 4 o’clock so we walked round the town, checking the starting point of the walk and enjoying the ambience and scenery. Quite a lot of walkers round, many who went the other direction from us, walked east to west, and have just finished! They say it was lovely, and of course they have had superb weather. I have already unpacked my poncho to have ready in my backpack! But meanwhile all is just wonderful.
    Read more

  • Day 24

    First walking day in the rain

    September 22, 2019 in England ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    First, last night’s dinner at the pub was good. I had a steak and managed to avoid too much stooge! They offered Carole chips or jacket potato with her lasagne!! Like they do in Ireland, everything comes with potatoes in some form. (She said neither please, just salad!).

    And this morning we had a good breakfast, continental and full English choices, and a good start before walking. Despite going to bed with still a perfect day, by this morning it was raining as predicted and we set off in our rain gear at about 9.30. It wasn’t heavy all the time, and sometimes almost stopped, but enough to get pretty soggy, and the ground, even though it hadn’t rained for a week, immediately got very muddy and puddly. With the consistent rain I found that my poncho wasn’t as impermeable as I thought. We’ve always been so lucky with weather on our Caminos that it may not have been put to the test and my t-shirt got quite wet which was uncomfortable and cold. It is much colder today, and hard to remember that yesterday we only wore a light shirt, and many people just had shorts and short sleeves. Any way it was all part of the fun, and it was a short flat walk today, along the firth and half way towards Carlisle. We did about 15 kms, and walked to Burgh by Sands (pronounced bruff). It is a tiny town, but famous for a statue of Edward I where they fought Robert the Bruce...Edward died here, but now buried at Westminster Abbey. Also there is a very old church, St Michael’s, built partly with stones from Hadrian’s Wall, dating back to 13th century, with some later additions (or maybe the later additions were 12th C!!). And it had been a garrison during the wars. So much history!

    But as the inn at Burgh by Sands is closed at the moment, we were taxied back to Carlisle for the night (all part of the service) and tomorrow we get taken back to Burgh by Sands to walk back to Carlisle! So it means that we are 2 nights and this very pleasant B and B, and don’t have to pack up tomorrow morning, and have 2 days to get washing dry! So we are getting to know Carlisle well, and are going out to Indian tonight. Paul our taxi driver recommended one that is the “best in Carlisle” so we’ll put it to the test. Indian food in the UK is very good, better than I’ve found in Australia. But the other Asian cuisines - Thai, Malay etc are not anything like as good as in Oz.

    Tomorrow’s walk is even shorter than today - about 12 kms I think, and still flat. The hilly more demanding part comes in the middle, so this is a lovely gentle start!
    Read more

  • Day 25

    Second walking day - no rain!

    September 23, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Just relaxing and washing before dinner. Had a great Indian meal last night, and we plan to get back there tonight as from now on probably less choice in very small villages. We did our walk today, and have finally officially walked to Carlisle!! We were taxied back to Burgh by Sands to begin, and started later - about 11.15 - as the prediction was for better weather later in the morning and into the afternoon. As always the predictions were a little off, and the morning was fine, but so also is the afternoon, and at 4.30 it is still even sunny, so we had a good 13 km walk.

    It was basically flat, though we did go up and down the river banks now and then, and there was a lot of walking through mud and boggy ground, and through fields avoiding the bogs and cow pads, so it was quite hard work some of the time. We are following the Hadrian’s Wall pathway signs which are black and white rather discreet acorns, not nearly as obvious as our Camino yellow arrows and scallop shells, or the red and white signs in France. We are training our brains and eyes to notice them...one mistake today took us down a particularly boggy path till we finally reached a field with a chained and padlocked gate and had to turn back. So we are getting vigilant!

    But it was beautiful scenery, cows and fields and along the river into Carlisle. Tomorrow we finally leave this small city (small enough that we feel we now know it quite intimately!) and head off into smaller towns and villages for the next 6 days of walking, then we have 2 days walking through Newcastle upon Tyne where we finish.

    This morning I did a really risky thing - I bought new walking shoes!! Amr suggested it, and it did seem the only solution to my rain sodden shoes, which were still wet this morning, and which were obviously no longer waterproof and would be wet the whole 10 days. I last used them in 2014 on the Coast to Coast and I think they have sat disintegrating in my cupboard since then. So I have to report that the risk paid off - got some great shoes on sale - £80 reduced to £40 - and I wore them all day and they were so comfortable and coped with the mud and puddles...phew...they are now truly worn in and no longer look pristine! Tomorrow and for the rest of our walking days rain is predicted...we know that this won’t necessarily mean that we walk in rain, but I am happy to have proper shoes that have a chance of keeping my feet dry.

    Tomorrow is a 17 km walk (which probably means a bit longer), and I hope Carole and John won’t find it too long. They kayak and cycle but aren’t as intrepid walkers as we are. But today and yesterday were a good mild introduction to longer walks I hope.
    Read more