• Mike Tepfer

Utah and Arizona Hiking Trip

Hiking Zion, Sedona, and Havasu Falls with my daughter Hope. Have a 2 day permit for the full overnight 16 mile hike through the Narrows in Zion.
Plan on Antelope Canyon, Sliding Rock, Subway, Birthing Cave, and Devils Bridge, and falls in Havasupai
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  • Permulaan perjalanan
    3 Ogos 2023

    Day 1 - Driving

    3 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 95 °F

    Got up and packed up the jeep. Had my stuff and Hope's. Hope is currently in Dominican Republic with a friend so bringing all her gear and she will fly in to Vegas on Monday where I will pick her up.

    Drove almost to Jackson MS, over 700 miles for the day, the jeep hit 100,000 miles on the route. Had used a site called Hipcamp to book a place to camp, is sort if like an airbnb for camping. Stopped in a little rural town, guy rents his land to camp, was only 18.00 for the night. Has a working bathroom and shower on the property and area is gorgeous and peaceful.
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  • Day 2 - Driving then driving some more

    4 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    Just kept driving most of the day - over 800 miles. No exciting stops. Made it through Louisiana and Texas. Was going to stop at rest area as I crossed into New Mexico but it was closed. So drove in a little further found an exit that had hotels and truck stop grouped together. Pulled into back of hotel parking lot to sleep.

    Did see an incredible sunset in Texas. At one point had sun setting in front of me and huge storm with amazing lightning to left. Got a quick video on phone but should have a better one on go pro.
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  • Day 3 - Petrified Forest National Park

    5 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F

    Had time so added another National Park. Enjoyed walking around. Is basically a scenic drive from either North or South entrances of park, roughly 26 miles. Lots of pull-offs and trail options. Took one that ended up connecting to another trail that led down into the canyon which was neat. After talking to the ranger guess you can go about 10 miles out and even camp with permit. Considered it briefly but was over 100 degrees and no shade out there.Baca lagi

  • Day 4 - Bryce Canyon National Park

    6 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    This may end up being one of my favorites. Was incredible hiking down, around and back up through here. Did over 10 miles and over 2100 ft of elevation gain. Will write more on this when I have time and have hundreds of pictures to go throughBaca lagi

  • Backwoods Campground - Zion Family Ranch

    6 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Wow, what a remote place with amazing views. Wanted to be near Kolob Canyon for the next day so found this place on the Hipcamp app. Is a guys ranch he's had in family forever. Land borders Zion Nation Park. You actually cross into it to get to his place.

    I'm glad though I made it during day light, ride was something else up to his camping area. Dirt road, lots of ruts/holes, steep climbs and hairpin turns. A truck or jeep no problem some cars I would be hesitant, also not possible if raining or rained. Even has signs saying impassable during inclement weather.

    When I finally made it was a wide open field looking out at Zion. Had made it just as sun went behind mountains. Site had a fire ring so gathered some wood and made a small fire. Setup tent and cooked dinner before watching the night fall.

    With fire I intrigued a lone cow. Was one cow on the fenced off side never saw any others, when fire was going she turned and started walking towards it up to fence and just stood there and watched me for about 30 minutes before moving on.

    Through the night 3 more cars came in but they ventured further down, no idea how big the area was, I could only faintly see one of them next morning.

    The other amazing thing that I can't capture on video or camera is the amount of stars in the sky. My tent is open at top ( does have covering if wanted) so can just look up and see thousands of stars.

    Woke up early in the morning to sit and watch the sun rise up over the mountains. Peaceful and breathtaking.
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  • Day 5 - Kolob Canyon Taylor Creek Trail

    7 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    After leaving campground wanted to stop by the Kolob Creek visitor center to see if I could get my Narrows permit a day early, unfortunately could not. The ranger was super nice and helpful though, gave me info on the hike, what to expect and shuttle info to get from where we end to beginning of hike. This way she said could leave car parked at Zion visitor center overnight and will be there when we get done.

    At this point asked her about hikes in this area and she said one was closed due to sinkhole on the road but the other was a 5 mile out and back with multiple Creek crossings. Originally had considered driving straight to Vegas to hike around Red Rocks but decided to try this trail instead. Glad I did as Temps were in upper 80's here but 100+ in Vegas.

    The hike started out fairly nice, was overall easy as I got farther in though views became amazing as you were right on Canyon walls and criss crossing the creek or walking up it. Very little rain lately so was more of a light stream.

    As I hiked came upon multiple people, asked an older couple if they had done this before, they said no but there friends up ahead had. When I reached them asked them how much further as I was almost 3 miles in already. If left to me I'll just keep walking. They said there was an end point up ahead and you will know it also said they heard but had not seen there was a waterfall nut needed to do some scrambling. I figured as long as no steep climbing or narrow ledges I was fine. Kept going up the dry creek bed at this point, walls on each side, had to climb up a little over rocks but nothing major. Was about to give up when I heard water, came around corner and water was cascading down the mountain side, not a waterfall like in NC, but water coming down. It pooled into an area at the base. Was definitely the end as it was just a little area with the walls going straight up, was well worth it. Then headed back to where I saw others cut up the real trail, this spot was also amazing, like a mini ampitheater, shaded, cool, and amazing views. We're a few hikers here including the couples I talked to, told them indeed there was a waterfall further up. As always the pictures will never do justice of the beauty. By the time I got back had hiked over 7 miles and about 3 hours.
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  • Silver Reef Brewery

    7 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 102 °F

    After hiking over 7 miles today and 10 yesterday wanted a real meal and a beer - or two. Had to drive to Vegas to get Hope tonight so found this place along the way in St George.

  • Zion National Park

    8 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Checked in to the campground about .8 miles from the entrance. Hope and I set up our hammocks and packed up our day hiking packs and headed to the park. We didn't have a permit for Angel's Landing, but there was a hike up to it, so we started out on that. Had heard that sometimes no one is there to check for a permit. Hike was straight uphill about 2 miles or so quite a climb. When we reached the top, no one was there for Angel's Landing, and a few people would just climb - it was later in the afternoon. I knew I couldn't go to the top but Hope made it, I went halfway to a ledge there, just couldn't do last part as you are just holding onto a chain looking at drop-off all around you. Hope actually had top to herself for a while. After that, we headed to the lower, upper, and middle Emerald Pools. Not a lot of water in them at the time, but top and lower had beautiful views. From there, we headed down the path. When we got to where the next shuttle stop was, the bridge was closed. At this point, we had about 8 miles of hiking in. Ended up walling down the horse trail for over two miles for the next stop. However, along the way, we saw 3 mule deer right on our path. One wasn't going to move and was pretty big, so we waited patiently for it to move on. We finally made it back to the visitors center and started our walk back to the campground. At this point, we had hiked over 12 miles. It was after 8 and were starving, so we stopped at a Mexican place called Whippingtail. We both got Carne Asada tacos, and they were amazing, two tacos loaded with steak, could barely finish them. By the time we got back to the campground, it was after 9. Then, I had to pack up gear for our 2 day narrows hike in the dark. Finally hit the hammock at 10:30 for a 5 wake up to pack up and head back to the park to meet the shuttle for a hike.Baca lagi

  • Hiking Narrows Day 1

    9 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    So to start have no pictures from phone, shot all video for this with GoPro sine it is waterproof and will edit and piece together when I get back.

    The day started out rough, since we didn't get to bed until 10:30, we had to meet our shuttle driver at 5:50 in the visitor center parking lot. Was able to leave jeep there overnight since we had a permit. Got quickly and quietly out of camping spot around 5, headed to front of campground for light and no one to bother, used restrooms and tidied up gear. I had my large pack to carry our tent and camping gear since didn't think we would be able to use hammocks. With that and other gear my pack was about 40lbs, way more than I would have liked, our tent wasn't made for backpacking so a little heavier. Hope had a day pack with her hydration system and her clothes in a wet bag to stay dry. I also had our food and cooking and eating items and my hydration pack. I had 5 liters of water and Hope had 4.we each had our life straw bottle but there was a bacteria in the water that can not be filtered by anything and the only fresh spring water spot was 9 miles on past the campsite so had to make sure we had enough for day 1 to drink and cook with.

    When we got to visitor center couldn't find our driver, he did call us and find us. Turns out we were only 2 as two others had canceled. The drive up to the top at Chamberlain Ranch was interesting. The first part was through the park then through the mountain tunnels, blasted through in 1937. Is quite remarkable. Then our driver warned us about the last 45 minutes, was a beat up dirt road, said since only us it would be bumpy, is better with more people, he was right. Was very scenic though on way.

    When we got to top and stepped out we were in shock, temp was at least 20 degrees cooler at that higher altitude. Said we gained about 3000 ft. Hope had a sweatshirt to put on and I pulled out my rain jacket to warm up. We then started our 16.1 mile hike around 7:45

    The first part was all dirt road maybe for mile to a mile and half through the Chamberlain ranch, we then passed through a gate marking the national park land. The whole time the Virgin River was off to our right. After a bit we came upon our first river crossing, Hope for the first few did her best to keep her feet dry for awile, since she is younger, more limber and probably in better shape was able to jump across rocks while I just said screw it and got my feet wet. First few were basically ankle deep. We continued on for a few hours this way, would stop and video, Hope would do some rock climbing and we sat and cooked some food since we didn't get any breakfast before. After about 4 miles we hit our first Narrows section, it is at this point you will be walking through water. In this section, it was mainly ankle to upper leg deep in sections. Nothing too bad. It was the rocks everywhere and the weight of the bag that was causing me problems. I couldn't climb and jump like she could with the extra weight very easily. Also before the trip started i told her to get walking sticks, she said that's for old people, after first couple of rapids and rock crossings I offered her one for balance and to help check deepness as we went down, she kept it the rest of the way.

    We had markers we knew we should hit so we would know how close to our campsite we were. All we could go off was time, as in the canyon the GPS on my watch for mileage goes crazy. We were looking for a waterfall but around every bend we went no waterfall. We were getting tired and knew our campsite 7 was at least 2-3 more hours after waterfall. Hope pulled out her phone on one of our rest stops and was able to get our map position through Snapchat! We could see the creek that was right after waterfall and knew we were finally close. Still took about another 30 minutes before we hit the waterfall.

    At this point we were both tired, her back was hurting and my quads from trying to balance in the rapids crossing rocks constantly were on fire. We were moving slowly, ne much slower than her, she would get ahead a bit sit and rest and I'd catch up. Eventually we got to campsite 1, at this point think it was about 5 pm so we had been out there for almost 9 hours, we did stop alot and eat so probably close to 6-7 hours of hiking. Since campsite 7 was supposed to be 9 miles in we were barely getting a mile an hour. The pace was slow at end but the constant zigzagging back and forth made a mile take a lot longer.

    This whole time we saw no one, no one at site 1, no one at site 2 ( All permits, about 40 a day, sell out almost immediately so was kind of shocked). So when we got to site 3 ,still no one, it was a nice site and we were at peak exhaustion from the little sleep and long strenuous hike and figured we still had 45 minutes to an hour before we would hit 7 so decided to camp at three for the night. At first we just took our packs off and rested for about 15 minutes, made dinner which helped immensely, started feeling a little more revived, set up tent and got ready for an early night. We were in tent by 7 and I was out by 7:30. Not sure how long Hope stayed up but probably not much longer.

    Was a fun and exciting start to hike, scenery was incredible but the hike itself was no joke.
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  • Horseshoe Bend

    11 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Made a quick stop at Horseshoe Bend on our way to camping area in Sedona. Was a pretty chill day after our 16 mile, 2 day hike through the Narrows. Had a hotel room in Kanab, slept in, left around noon, hit the grocery store to restock then treated ourselves to a pizza buffet at a local place, then on to Sedona for next 3 days.Baca lagi

  • Beaver Creek Oasis

    11 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    Our camping area for the next two nights. Has to take another long rough dirt road to get to it. Even had to do a small water crossing in jeep. Second bridge had a sign fo not pass if flooded, luckily was pretty dry. Is a couples land, the lady Laura was super nice. Showed us around, they grow most of there own stuff and have chickens, two border collies and Alpacas! They had 4 but one recently passed she said. She even let Hope feed them.

    We both setup to sleep in hammocks as it is so much more comfortable than tent. Had to put rain guard up though as it stormed the first night.

    Supposed to be a meteor shower tonight (12th) so hopefully clear so we can see it.
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  • Seligman- Route 66

    15 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Stopped for the night before our hike in at the Historic Route 66 Motel. Was supposed to stay at Grand Caverns Inn further down and where we checked in for our hike and got our wristbands, but they had a water pipe break and had to cancel our reservation.

    We had a late lunch at a great little Cafe across the street and explored the shops in the town dealing with Route 66 memorabilia. Even the hotel was themed to Route 66.

    Made it an early night as we want to be at the trailhead at 5 to start hike in and it is a 90 minute drive from here.
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  • Supai Day 1

    16 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Left our motel on Route 66 around 3:30 am. Wanted to start hiking around 5. Was about a 90 minute drive, the road off of 66 that you take to the trailhead is a little sketchy in the dark. Road is in good shape, lots of mountain curves and the main thing they warned us about was wildlife in the road, mainly cows. Guess out on their reservation they roam free, no fences to keep them in. We made it to trailhead a few minutes after 5 with no wildlife sightings. They said to start early to avoid the heat, the sun won't peak over the canyon walls until 9 or 10.

    We hit the trail at 5:15, saw a few others in the parking lot and passed a couple coming down the steep switchbacks. Was about a 1.5 mile hike down, not looking forward to going back up on way out!

    From there was relatively flat, was light already when we started so could see easily. Saw some hikers coming back and a few resting along the way. Hope was determined to just grind it out to the campground. Also saw some locals hustling a mule herd through . Had to make sure to move out of the way as they were moving. You can buy to have your packs transported by mule if you want. After about 8 miles we came to the village.

    No photos allowed in the village but was more than I expected, had a small store, a Cafe, nice school, and church.

    From there we still had 2 more miles to the campground. By then our packs felt like bricks and we were both tired but pushed on. We arrived at the campground around 9:30, so a little over 4 hours to get the 10 miles. We found a nice spot along the water and hung our hammocks and made an early lunch as we were starving.

    We relaxed for a bit at camp then headed back towards were we came in to go down to Havasu Falls. We saw it coming in but at that point wanted just to get to campsite and setup.

    The falls were amazing, the water is blue from a lime deposit it picks up along the way. Just amazing to witness. We both got in, Hope swam a little more than me and we just relaxed at the falls for the rest of the afternoon.

    Most of my footage is on my gopro again and in videos but took a few pics with phone.
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  • Supai Day 2

    17 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Had a good night's rest in the hammock, didn't get to cool and wasn't to hot either. Had a light sheet I brought that was just fine.

    We both got up and had breakfast and packed up to do Mooney and Beaver Falls. Filled our water at the spring in the campground and headed out.

    Mooney is just on other side of campground so not even a mile from our site. This is the one where you go through a couple tunnels on the way down then a steep downward climb on rocks holding onto chains, at the bottom is a couple of wooden ladders. The spray from the falls makes it wet and little slippery but as long as you have good shoes you are fine - although Hope did it in Crocs! Was definitely a little nervous about it as I don't care for heights and drop-offs but was not going to miss it. Wasn't as bad as I thought, take your time get your footing and always have hold of a chain.

    The falls from top and bottom were just as amazing as Havasu. Blue water and incredible to watch.

    We spent a little time there taking videos then headed to Beaver Falls, this was about 3 miles out and 3 river crossings, not to deep, nothing compared to Narrows in Zion!

    These falls were also amazing. They were layered so you could sit on the edge of one and cool off. You could also get up behind it.

    You could climb up levels also but I was content on the one level. Of course Hope saw people jumping higher up so climbed up. Was a group of friends from Utah that do adventure tours together. They showed her were to jump in the pool up there and she did it twice. Then they jumped from above and down, which of course she did and was a little nerve wracking to watch.

    We hung out there most of the afternoon and then started our hike back. Along the way back came upon a single mountain goat, was able to get pretty close as it had no fear of people, so got some good video.

    We also stopped at Mooney Falls again to get some more pictures before climbing back up. Climb back up was lot easier than going down to me.

    As before mainly used go pro for videos so not a lot of still pictures.
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  • Supai Day 3

    18 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    First hike of the day was to 50 foot falls. Was back towards the village, not to far maybe a mile or so. Did take some work to find the way down to bottom of it though. Was a kind of covered trail and a little bit of water crossing to get to it. Was another beautiful spot though.

    When we got there the same group from yesterday was there. They were taking photos, one guy is a photographer so had a nice setup. Got some good shots of Hope he is going to send her. We hung out in the water for awhile and then decided to head to the village to have lunch at the Cafe.

    Was impressed, very nice cafe, good selection of food. I just got a cheeseburger and fries. Hope got the Supai burger which is basically a burger but on their fry bread.

    After that we hiked back towards the campground, stopped at Havasu Falls again so Hope could get some 'Instagram ' pictures! Then back to Mooney Falls for the same, did the climb up and down a second time!

    After all that headed back to campsite, was about 6:30 and I was going to lay down and relax and Hope was heading back to Havasu Falls to meet the group from earlier to hang out. Plan was to get up early next morning and start our hike out around 5 again to avoid the heat. About 30 minutes later Hope came back and said the group was hiking out tonight as a ranger came by and said anyone with a campsite by water needed to move to higher ground as they were expecting heavy rains at some point from an approaching hurricane. Since we have no signal down there all these days had no idea and thought she just heard wrong saying hurricane. Wasn't until next day we saw that yes Hurricane Hillary was going towards California!

    So we decided to just pack up and hike out at night. We got everything together and hit the trail about 8. Trail is relatively easy to follow and we both had good headlamps. Knew it would take longer and be tougher going out as hiking in is downhill, so going out is up! We planned to stop at rest at 4 and 8, total hike was closer to 11. We passed a couple others hiking out also and two guys from the group we met passed us around the 8 mile mark. All was going well until we got to the switchbacks for the hill to climb out. Basically 1.5 miles straight up on switchbacks, gained over 1300 ft in that short distance. To make it worse about half mile in rains came so we got soaked! Luckily temp was decent so wasn't freezing. Took us little over 40 minutes to hike that last mile out. In the end hiked out about 11 miles, 2300 feet of elevation gain in about 4 hours 45 minutes reaching top around 12:45 am.

    From there we had another 2 hour drive to civilization to find a place to stay. However the town we came to was near Grand Canyon and the first 3 hotels we tried were booked. So we just hit a gas station/truck stop and slept till morning. I then booked a room in Vegas as Hope was flying out that night. We went had breakfast, drove to Vegas and git lucky they ket us check in around 10:30 so we could shower and nap!
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  • Final Days

    19 Ogos 2023, Amerika Syarikat ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    What an amazing trip! Dropped Hope off at airport Saturday night and went back to hotel to rest. Got up in morning and started drive back. Just drove all the way through with a quick stop in Oklahoma to see my cousin for lunch.

    Ended up in Tallahassee on Tuesday the 22nd to drop Hope's stuff off at her apartment at FSU. She was coming up Wednesday with Carter and her mom to move in.

    Finally got home around 12:30 am on Wednesday.

    Hit three National Parks, hiked well over 100 miles, did a once in a lifetime hike through the Narrows and visited one of my bucket list places in Havasupai and visited Sedona and got to enjoy it with my daughter. Definitely memories to cherish. Look forward to the next trip out west as it is such a beautiful place to enjoy
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    Tamat perjalanan
    23 Ogos 2023