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  • Dag 10

    Break at Nata in Cascaia

    21 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    》Espresso flavored with Portuguese Firewater
    》Pastel de Nata

    ^Aguardente de Medronhos is also known as 'firewater' to non-Portuguese speakers. It is a rough translation from água ardente, which is Portuguese for burning water. The spirit obtains this name from the hot sensation as the consumed beverage travels down the throat and is felt through the sinuses.

    ^Pastel de nata or Pastel de Belém is a Portuguese egg custard tart pastry, optionally dusted with cinnamon. 

    The origin of Pastel de Nata dates back to before the 18th century, where they were created by monks at the Jerónimos Monastery in the parish of Santa Maria de Belém in Lisbon.  At that time, convents and monasteries used large quantities of egg-whites for starching clothes. It was quite common for monasteries and convents to use the leftover, egg yolks, to make cakes and pastries, resulting in the proliferation of sweet pastry recipes throughout the country.

    In the aftermath of the Liberal Revolution of 1820, following the dissolution of religious orders and in the face of the impending closure of many convents and monasteries, the monks started selling pastéis de nata at a nearby sugar refinery to bring in revenue. In 1834, the monastery was closed and the recipe sold to the sugar refinery.
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  • Dag 10

    Praia da Conceição Beach

    21 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    》The Praia da Conceição and Praia de Duquesa are a pair of semi-connected beaches, which form the largest beach within the Cascais/Estoril region. High tide separates this beach from Praia da Duquesa to the east, but the two form one big beach at low tide.

    The sea waters of Duquesa and Conceição are some of the calmest (no currents or waves) of the Lisbon coastline.
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  • Dag 10

    Tour day...Stop 2: Cascais

    21 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    》Cascais is the premier holiday destination of the Lisbon coastline. This is a traditional and charming Portuguese fishing town, which has responsibly developed into a popular resort town.

    Historically, Cascais was the summer retreat of the Portuguese nobility, and today the town is an elegant fusion of its illustrious heritage, with the expectations of the modern tourist.

    Found within the cobbled streets of the historic centre are lavish villas, an imposing fort, fascinating museums, along with lively bars and restaurants which give Cascais its buzzing holiday atmosphere.

    The beaches of Cascais are glorious; surrounding the town are the beautiful beaches of the Portuguese Riviera, while to the north is the wild and untamed Serra de Sintra coastline, with its vast surfing beaches and dramatic natural scenery.

    NOTES:

    ^Bryan Adams spent 4 years living in Cascais, when he was a teenager. "The Summer of '69" is about one of his summers there.

    ^The English writer, Ian Fleming, also a journalist and a British Naval Intelligence Officer, is the author of the James Bond character, created in his first book, “Casino Royale”(1953), inspired by the spies, also Estoril Palácio Hotel guests, where Fleming was staying at the time of the World War II.

    Afterwards,in the course of 1968, the Hotel was an exceptional scenario for the sixth film of James Bond saga, named “On Her Majesty´s Secret Service”, which had, as protagonists, the Australian actor, George Lazenby – the second agent of James Bond saga, after Sean Connery – and the English actress, Diana Rigg.

    The exterior of the Hotel, the lobby, the pool and the rooms’ view, are an integral part of many of the scenes of the film that was released in 1969. At the time, the pool had been recently built. Other locations in Portugal, as the Guincho Beach, Lisbon and the Arrábida Mountain, were selected for some of the scenarios of that feature film.
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  • Dag 10

    Palacio da Pena Chapel

    21 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    》The Palace of Pena Chapel resulted from the adaptation of the former Monastery Church of Our Lady of Pena.

    Up until the abolition of religious orders, this church was open to the faithful (who would arrive at the Pena monastery along the Pilgrims Way).

    The main altar retable from the former church, in alabaster and limestone from the Sintra region, was worked on between 1529 and 1532, by the sculptor of French origin, Nicolas de Chanterenne, and resulted from a commission from João III, son of Manuel I, the founder of the convent.

    A particular highlight is the stained glass window installed by Ferdinand II in the wall opposite the main altar, which dates to 1840, shortly after the Palace began construction, which was produced by the famous stained glass workshop in Nuremberg belonging to the Kellner family. The glass reveals artistic intentions but also the political legitimacy underlying the construction of the Palace.

    》Castelo dos Mouros (Moors Castle)

    A privileged vantage point looking out over the Atlantic coastline, the floodplain and the Sintra Hills, the millennium-old Moorish Castle, founded under Islamic rule, occupied a then strategic position for defending both the surrounding territory and the maritime access routes to the city of Lisbon. The artefacts found on this site identify how, in between the walls and their adjoining areas, there lived a population in an area now named the Islamic Quarter.

    The silos, structures carved into the rocks, may be encountered both inside and outside the fortification and were used to conserve certain foodstuffs such as cereals.

    The Moors lived here through to 1147, when Sintra was handed over to Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal, following the conquest of the cities of Lisbon and Santarém. Strategically and as a means of defending these lands, the running of the town of Sintra and its immediate hinterlands was bestowed on Gualdim Pais, a master in the Knights Templar, who received a charter in 1154.

    With the settlement of a Christian population in the Moorish Castle, the Islamic Quarter began to disappear and give way to a Medieval town with its occupation ongoing through to the 15th century. At that time, the site was steadily subject to abandonment given that, with the conflicts between the Moors and Christians long over, the population no longer felt the need to seek shelter within the vicinity of the fortification. This Medieval town included the Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim, built between the two rings of walls.



    Already into the 19th century, and in keeping with the Romantic spirit prevailing in that period, King Ferdinand II undertook restoration work on the castle, breathing new life into the medieval imaginary surrounding this site. These renovation works damaged part of the Christian burial grounds of the Church and, for this reason, the order was given to build a tomb to house the bones found there. Given the inability to distinguish whether these were Christian or Moorish human remains, the tomb bears the inscription: “What man brought together, only God may separate”.
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  • Dag 10

    Palacio da Pena

    21 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    》The Palacio da Pena sits atop a jagged rocky outcrop - the second highest peak (480m) of the Serra da Sintra hills.

    The site was originally a Hieronymite monastery, which had been long abandoned by the time Fernando II purchased the area in 1838. Sections of the original monastery can still be seen - the main courtyard is a two-storey Manueline cloister, and the Nossa Senhora da Pena chapel has been barely altered since the 16th century.

    The chief architect of the Palacio da Pena (Wilhelm Eschwege) was of German nationality and took inspiration from the Neuschwanstein castle in Bavaria, as well as from his travels through Asia and Africa and from Portugal itself. The rose-red painted tower shares many characteristics with the Torre de Belem in Lisbon, while the spikes on the gateway resemble the 16th-century Casa dos Bicos in the Alfama district of Lisbon.

    》Why did King Ferdinand II want to put this triton at the entrance to his palace?

    It’s believed that King Ferdinand II was the author of the design for this monster, crafted out of limestone, but where did the king find inspiration to create such a figure? What is its connection to the Palace and Sintra?

    One of the aspects is related to the architectural influences of the monument: the connection to the marine world, referring to the “Manueline revival that permeates the entire Palace of Pena”, says the curator. “It’s supporting position is inspired by the Manueline Window at the Convent of Tomar”, she adds.

    But the truth is that there could be an influence even older than this, based on the legends of Sintra. Over thousands of years, many stories have emerged about the presence of mythological characters on the region's beaches, where the land ends and the sea begins.

    The best known is specifically that of the triton, who lived in 'Fojo Well', close to Adraga Beach. According to Pliny the Elder (27-79 AD), in this area “(…) in a certain cave, a Merman was seen in the form that is well known, playing a conch shell”. “I have testimonies from distinguished members of the equestrian order attesting that they themselves saw a marine man in the ocean of Gades, with all parts of his body resembling a man”, adds the classic author, in his ‘Historiae Naturalis Libri XXXVII’.

    Centuries later, more precisely in 1554, when describing Necklaces in the work ‘Urbis Olisiponi Descriptio’, Damião de Góis states that “(…) not far from the village, under a rock overlooking the sea, there is a cave beaten by the ocean. The cave swallows the waves that penetrate inside and collide in a mess of water and foam, before vomiting them out again accompanied by the enormous noise of the waves. Hence our people believe that a Merman was once seen there singing with his shell”. The chronicler doesn’t refute this idea, since “in the Ancient Archives of the Kingdom, of which I myself am (…) in charge, there is still an ancient manuscript of a contract (…), in this document the tax on mermaids and other species of animals caught on the beaches is stated (…). From this it’s obviously deduced that mermaids were frequent in our waters at that time, since a law was enacted about them”. The law would apply not only to mermaids, but also to “Mermen and Nereides”.

    Damião de Góis also wrote that, at that time, it was even possible to find along the coast “a kind of men that the inhabitants of the area began to call marine men, due to their nature and origin, above all because they exhibited and retained coarseness or scales on the surface of their skin (…) as if they were vestiges of their ancient race. It has always been taken for granted that such beings owe their origin and ancestry to marine men or Mermen. All of this comes from the traditions of the ancestors that the Mermen sometimes jumped ashore, and gradually got used to playing on the beach; attracted by the sweetness of the fruit, which is very abundant in that region, they returned there frequently; through the ineffable cunning of the inhabitants, some of them were caught and then lovingly initiated into a more civilised and less savage way of life”.

    Thus, the presence of the triton in the Palace of Pena can also be seen as an ode to the legends of Sintra, the fantastical beings who, like King Ferdinand, loved this land so much that they decided to stay here.
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  • Dag 10

    Palacio da Pena

    21 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    》The whimsical exterior of the Palacio da Pena, has ornamental stone carving, vividly painted terraces and entrance guarded by a statue of Triton.

    The lush forests of the Parque de Pena that surround the palace are fascinating and varied grounds include refreshing fern gardens, massive rocky outcrops, wonderful viewpoints and the delightful Chalet da Condessa d'Edla.

    》The brilliant colours of the palace had slowly faded since being originally painted in the mid-19th century, and by the 1990s the palace's appearance had become rather drab and dreary.

    In 1996, Pena Palace underwent an extensive restoration project, which included repainting the exterior walls in their original colours. This vivid colour scheme horrified some of the more conservative residents of Sintra. Fortunately the work to reinvigorate the building continued, creating the opportunity to view this magnificent palace in its original splendour once again.

    》The sumptuous interior of the Palacio da Pena, with its many impressive staterooms styled with fine examples of grand 19th-century furniture. Incorporated into the palace is the monastery that the palace was built around, along with the impressive Sala de Visitas, Salão Nobre and the King's personal chambers.
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  • Dag 10

    Palacio da Pena (Pena Palace)

    21 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    》One of the seven wonders of Portugal is located in Sintra.

    The stunning Palacio Nacional da Pena palace is an outstanding example of the 19th-century Romanticism style of architecture, with its vividly painted terraces, ornamental battlements and statues of mythological creatures.

    The interior of the Palacio da Pena is equally fascinating, having been restored to how it would have appeared in 1910 when the Portuguese nobility fled to Brazil to escape the revolution.

    Surrounding the palace are the forested grounds of the Parque da Pena which continues the ideals of "Romanticism". There are romantic forest pathways, hidden trails around giant boulders, lush fern gardens and spectacular viewpoints.
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  • Dag 10

    Palace Quinta da Regaleira - Chapel

    21 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    》Templar Chapel

    This beautiful, delicate building, decorated with Manuelian floral motifs is the most elegant place of worship. The design contrasts elaborate patterning with simple white washed walls. Inside, the alter selectively uses gold leaf such that it enhances the beauty of the chapel, instead of overwhelming it with its overuse. If the walls of the chapel seem golden at times, it is because they have been hit by sunlight.

    This chapel is thoroughly fascinating. Although Christian in design, it shows how no religious belief is ever truly separate from all the others that have come before. Apart from the usual Catholic imagery and statues, the chapel also spotted pentagrams surrounding the Order of the Christ Cross and the symbol of the Free Masons on the ceiling of the doorway.
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  • Dag 10

    Palace Quinta da Regaleira - Main Palace

    21 september 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    》Underneath the chapel is a “secret” tunnel that leads to the main palace. The tunnel exits on the kitchen level, where you will have to walk past a long corridor to get to the stairs leading to the front porch of the building. The main palace is perhaps the most famous sight of the Quinta da Regaleira.

    Its slender Manueline-Gothic spires dancing high into the sky, its stone walls half hidden by the surrounding greenery. It is an enchanted castle in an magical forest.

    The interior and its furnishings are well preserved and restored, and it was easy to imagine myself as a visitor travelling back in time.

    At the heart of the palace is a beautiful chestnut staircase that links its three main floors. Although it is simple in design, the wood is beautifully carved.
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