Quinta da Regaleira

We walked the 3/4 mile to the Évora train station to catch the 9:05 to Lisbon and within 15 minutes were on the train to Sintra. The former train was luxurious and we were permitted to relocate to seating near an outlet to charge our phones where we happily airdropped favorite photos of Evora to each other.

Debbie’s strength training class has certainly paid off as she has almost effortlessly lifted our backpacks on and off overhead racks. I’m very impressed.

The train rides have gone through areas which are witness to drought and uninspired Midrise housing. One can also see some shacks.

Neither Debbie nor I are very experienced public transportation users and we are both geographically and directionally challenged. This leads to the need to get early starts to allow for mistakes as well as asking assistance from multiple people to ensure consensus. Everyone has been gracious.

Despite the fact of being told that Sintra was the final stop of the train, we mildly panicked when faced with the next to last stop, Portela da Sintra, but the body language of other riders, who by now must be chuckling to themselves, assured us there was one more stop.

By the way, we look like two sherpas with our front packs and side packs and on more than one occasion got stuck in doorways and metro “turnstiles “, with people behind us assisting.

Upon leaving the train in Sintra, we found a taxi —an honest driver—who upon checking out our hotel address, pointed at a flight of steps and told us our hotel was down there and to the left. He could have driven us around town, dropping us off there and we may not have been the wiser.

I think I might have preferred being taken advantage of as the 3 flights down steep, worn stairs were a challenge with a front pack obscuring my view, I had visions of reliving my Turkey Hill experience of going head over heels.

David and Theresa, the two front desk people we encountered made our stay so special, arranging an early check in, giving good directions and advice, and supplying bags of ice for our feet at the end of each day of climbing many hills and stairs as we explored the town, visited the Regaleira, Pena Palace and the gardens of the Moorish castle—too little time to book the inside,

Two nights were not sufficient for visiting Sintra. There are many palaces and churches and each person/ guide has their favorites. The huge crowds were a bit overwhelming and Christine gave us a heads up that the locals are getting sick of it and are pushing back. .

We booked a walking tour (“forced march”)during which we met Angela from Australia, who later shared a Tuk Tuk transport to Pena Palace when Uber made themselves “unavailable” for the very bumpy and hair-raising ride up the mountain.

We took, “mentor “ Christine’s advice and booked transportation from the Pena Palace gate to the palace itself as the uphill walk is brutal, but like many others, found ourselves told to wait for our guide-30 minutes—and then were told we should have gotten in the transport line. We ended up walking up the steep hill and were winded upon entering the palace with about a half million other people—yes, the tickets are timed, but.,…..

The Regaleira, which we saw on our first day, was the high point for us—the grounds rather than the palace. Owned by a wealthy man and designed by an Italian, it is hard to put into words. Built on a hill, the gardens and features, like the well and cave, are a maze of never ending paths and steps which crisscross through amazing vegetation. It is filled with nooks and crannies, a tower, parapets, etc. the signage leaves much to be desired and we encountered only one employee to assist us, we were told there was a map at the entrance but the herding process kept us from seeing it. Don’t get me wrong. Even with these flaws, it is not to be missed.

We did not get in line to experience the well as it was very long and I do not do well with narrow twisting steps. It has been compared to the rings in Dante’s writing.

Debbie and I both entered the cave feature and waterfall from the exit rather than the dark, twisting entrance and could not stop imagining what a scary yet intriguing series of tunnels our grandchildren would delight in there.

Debbie climbed to the top of the tower and got an amazing view. I safely documented it from below.

From there we walked to the Moorish Castle and explored the grounds with more paths meandering through wonderful vegetation and huge boulders. We ran out of time and took a taxi back.

Have I mentioned yet, that we have enjoyed a pitcher of sangria each night in Portugal and are overdosing on octopus, calamari and mussels? Eat your hearts out. The food had been amazing.

We hated to leave, but Lisbon was calling us. I was truly hesitate about climbing the 3 flights of steps back to the train station while weighted down with two packs. Theresa at the hotel, carried my heavy one and ensure we knew where to get our train. Yes, I gave her a well deserved tip.Read more