to nowhere in particular

Eylül 2023 - Mayıs 2024
backpacking my way through the world Okumaya devam et
Şu anda seyahat ediyor
  • 98ayak izleri
  • 17ülkeler
  • 258günler
  • 815fotoğraflar
  • 26videolar
  • 40,3kkilometre
  • 12,5kkilometre
  • 12,5kkilometre
  • 4,5kkilometre
  • 4,5kkilometre
  • 3,2kkilometre
  • 524deniz mili
  • 626kilometre
  • 365kilometre
  • 330kilometre
  • 32kilometre
  • 25kilometre
  • 3kilometre
  • Gün 228–229

    gilgit #1

    30 Nisan, Pakistan ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    we arrived in gilgit with no idea where to go, but were quickly able to find a cheap hotel. we rested in the room for the rest of the day. elias got cocky at one point and made a bet that he could drink 1.5 litres of water in one go. he lost, but see for yourself.Okumaya devam et

  • Gün 227–228

    night bus to gilgit

    29 Nisan, Pakistan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    this bus was not it. apart from a nice breakfast stop, i couldn't really move or sleep for twenty hours, my headphones were broken and the road was atrocious. nonetheless, as the sun came up, at least the views made up for it. the road up to the mountain city of gilgit is one of the most scenic ones in the world, shame we had to do it by night bus, but we had to, otherwise we would've gotten another police escort and that was not in the books for us. later i found out that we actually passed right through abbottabad, the place where osama bin laden was killed 13 years ago.

    we were now on the kkh, the infamous karakorum highway, and everything you hear about it is true. straight rock wall to your left, straight 300m drop to your right. as scary as it is, especially considering the pakistani driving style, it's beyond beautiful though. just the place to go for a little bike ride.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Gün 222–227

    islamabad

    24 Nisan, Pakistan ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    after 3 days of couchsurfing together and with the visa applications done, we finally decided to split up for good. dimitri decided to go back down to karachi, anna and elias stayed in rawalpindi seperately, and me and mathieu set up our tents on the outskirts of islamabad.

    since there is no real culture around cycling in pakistan, bikes are mostly looked at as childrens toys, so there aren't even any real bike shops in pindi. i thought i'd try my luck online and after a lot of searching, actually found a couple of promising second hand candidates. the first two i had a look at in real life were in no condition to make it to china, but the third one looked promising. 47 thousand rupees later, i was the proud owner of a new mountain bike.

    the next couple of days we spent hopping from guesthouse to guesthouse and from camp spot to camp spot while preparing my bike and repairing mathieu's. i ended up buying a lot more equipment: cycling shorts, luggage rack, bottle holder, repair kit, helmet, and a cycling shirt i just thought looked cool.

    just when we thought we were ready to go, elias decided to rent a bike and come along as well. also, getting a bus to the start point of our tour, gilgit, was much harder than we thought, but after two days of trial and error, we finally found one that would take us and our bikes to the mountains.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Gün 219–222

    rawalpindi

    21 Nisan, Pakistan ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    after arriving in pindi, we managed to find an atm and spent our first couple of rupees at a burger joint. after dinner, mathieu and elias went off to find a hotel while dimitri, anna and me opted for couchsurfing. anna had arranged everything with the host, so we were pretty surprised when we found out that our host had a huge villa, including a private chef. the guy was super chill as well.

    the very next day, we got straight to preparing our visa applications for india. turns out they need two weeks to issue it and still want 130€ for it. also, they gave us a list of things they wanted for the application: vaccinations, a hotel reservation, a motivation letter and much more bs. there were a lot more reasons than just this bit of bureaucracy, but in the end, i made a split decision and just trusted my gut feeling that india maybe wasn't exactly what i was looking for right now. central asia sounded a lot better. in retrospective, fabulous decision.

    now with new found time on my hands, my favourite activity became booking ultra cheap scooter taxis to drive me around the booming streets of rawalpindi. you see no women, the traffic is absolute carnage, traffic rules are regarded more as suggestions and it's super crowded simply because there is no space for that many people to go. slowly, i got adjusted to the spicy food, but my stomach was still far from having a good time. the others weren't better off either, at one point mathieu (the two guys moved in with us after one night in the hotel) took a double dose of imodium and he couldn't shit for days xd

    in the train, i had told matthieu about my plans to do a bit of bikepacking myself and he had happily agreed to accompany me for a little tour through the himalayas while his visa was getting processed. fantastic, now, all i had to do was find a bike.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Gün 218–219

    night train to rawalpindi

    20 Nisan, Pakistan ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    just a couple of minutes before our departure, we learned that the journey would actually take more than 30 hours. thriller. the vibes were surprisingly good pretty much the whole way through, even if we still got passport checks (always including an elaborate photo shoot with us) at every single train stop and there was one policeman accompanying us all the way to the border of belochistan. although we were quite annoyed by all the security ckecks at this point, i still appreciate the fact that the police does all of this for free just to make sure we're safe.

    the views were great though, we passed through wildly different parts of the country, from the belochi desert through tiny villages to lush, green farmlands and i realized that i had actually missed the greenery in iran more than i had thought. every now and then, we got off at a train stop to catch some fresh air or buy some 30 cent diarrhea rice.

    somehow, we pulled through the 30 hours relatively smoothly. i spent a lot of those hours sitting in the open train door watching the landscape whizz by with my headphones in. it was super nice to be honest, and the four others kept me great company.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Gün 216–217

    quetta police station

    18 Nisan, Pakistan ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    the second day of the escort was the most adventurous one. we saw multiple accidents on the roadside, dozens of flooded road sections and ran into a huge traffic jam collumn consisting purely of those typical pakistani pimped out trucks. the police got us through by skipping the line. one of the bikers also fell in a curve because of the slippery surface and the rain, but he was okay.

    the checkpoints got denser and denser and the escort size increased with time. as we were passing a mountain pass just before quetta, we were even accompanied by the anti terrorist squad for a while. all of them were super chill though. normally, i'd have a bunch of pictures with guns, but i had to transfer all of them into a cloud because some countries really don't like to find them in a phone search.

    late at night, we finally made it quetta. right from the go, it was a different world. everywhere you look, there's something crazy going on, chaos everywhere. but i actually liked it and got really excited for the rest of pakistan. that exitement seized rather quickly as we were brought to our hotel, though.

    if they don't allow you to stay at the police station, the bloom star hotel is the end point for everyone that makes the crossing, as you can clearly tell by looking at the sticker-filled glass front. the problem is, since the police force you to stay there, the hotel can pump up the prices at will. they charged us a comical amount, and we flat out refused to pay and told them we'd just sleep right in front of the reception. i was already half asleep in the lobby chair, when elias finally managed to haggle them down to an expensive, but somewhat acceptable price and we finally got a couple hours of sleep in.

    the next day, we waited 3 hours until our escort finally came to drive us to some office to get our paperwork done. basically, we needed a document that stated how and when we would leave belochistan and that we'd be responsible for ourselves from there on out. elias, matthieu, anna and dimitri were all planning on going to islamabad to get the lengthy indian visa process started, so i decided to join them.

    because the people from the office told us that we could take a train to the capital later that day, we agreed on going as a group. back at the police station in quetta, we were now told that trains only run in the morning and because our document said "by train", we weren't allowed to take a bus either. so, one more day of waiting it is. this time, after a lot of arguing, we were allowed to put our tents on the roof of the police station instead of going back to that godforsaken hotel.

    this time, everything finally worked out and we were brought first to a breakfast place (btw, my stomach was already killing me from the pakistani food i had had so far, little did i know that feeling would last more than a month) and then to the train station. after a lot of stress and confusion with the authorities, we got a tiny 6-bed bunk compartment in the very back of the train and finally said goodbye to quetta, the city that had kept us for way too long.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Gün 215–216

    dalbandin police station

    17 Nisan, Pakistan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    the escort group on the pakistani side consisted of more people than i had expected. there were elias and anna who i already knew, of course. together with me and a dimitri, a russian, we made up the backpacker section of the group. additionally, there were two friends from serbia and bosnia on motorbikes and matthieu, a young french bikepacker. together with him and elias, i shared the front seat of an absolute monster of a vehicle, a huge converted army truck belonging to petra from germany.

    there was always at least one levie car accompanying this group, although, sitting in that truck behind 2 inch bulletproof windows, it felt more like we were escorting them, not the other way around. at least every hour or so, we had to stop at a checkpoint, show our passports, and wait for a new police vehicle to escort us. it started out fine, but after some time, the constant stopping and waiting, which could be organized a lot more efficiently, drove especially the drivers insane.

    the landscape on the first day wasn't too scenic, but fascinating nonetheless. mostly just empty, flat desert with a few camels sprinkled throughout. we did however see a very recent train wreck right next to our road. also, petras truck was so huge that she snapped two wires hanging above the street in a village we went through, so i was assigned to be on the roof and hold up the cables. when we finally arrived in our safe house, the police station in dalbandin, where we would be spending our night, we cooked some food together and got settled in an empty room.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Gün 214–215

    taftan border

    16 Nisan, İran ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    because the process was so quick, we decided to just try to cross the border that same day. we went to the taxi stand looking for a shared taxi to the border, when we met anna from ukraine, who had the same plans and joined us. an hour later at the border, elias and anna were both accepted through the border. not me though. the guy at the embassy had made a little mistake and entered the day after as the entry date for pakistan.

    here's the thing: the 3 day escort we would be getting from the other side of the border only departs a couple times a week in the early morning. the next day was one of those departure dates and i would have to wait multiple days if i missed it. the guards told me that it wouldn't be a problem if i crossed the next morning and that i could catch the escort on the other side. i still had to spend the night on the iranian side of the border though.

    on the parking lot there, i luckily met a couple from the netherlands who were also waiting there with their jeep. they allowed me to sleep in their side tent, charge my stuff and even cooked some dinner for me. later, we were joined by an old german man in a sprinter, who, at 68 years old, turned out to be the possibly most seasoned traveler i've ever met, even if his classical retirement home attire didn't make him seem like it. he had a lot of fun stories to tell of travelling in "his days".

    the next morning, we got ready to cross asap, when elias texted me, saying that the police convoy wanted to leave in a couple of minutes. the border office on my side still showed no sign of life. about an hour later, it finally opened and i rushed through as quickly as i could. elias, meanwhile, was holding his ground, now being in a screaming argument with the police to wait for me. on the pakistani side, i was luckily allowed to use my western privilige to skip the whole queue. an officer made a phone call to the escort police to hold out five more minutes, loaded me onto his scooter and got me to the departure point just as they were already leaving. one minute later and i would've missed it. sadly, nothing more could be done for the chaps i had spent the last night with. i was still more than relieved though.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Gün 213–214

    zahedan

    15 Nisan, İran ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    we left early the next morning to go to the consulate, where we met the single greatest embassy worker ever. we expected a harsh interview, but instead got drinks, snacks and a philosophy lecture from the guy. he talked to us about hospitality and how important it was for him to treat us well as a representative of his country. long story short, he gave us a 2x2 month multiple entry visa for the same price as the 1 month single entry we had applied for. absolute legend, i still have his business card.Okumaya devam et

  • Gün 212–213

    speedrunning east

    14 Nisan, İran ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    in order to get out of iran as quickly as possible, we first had to go to the pakistani consulate in zahedan to get our visa interviews done. because zahedan was still more than 1.5 thousand kilometres away, we opted for busses instead of hitchhiking.

    first, we took a 12h one to bandar abbas, where we arrived just in time to see the sunrise over the persian gulf, before taking another 12h bus to zahedan. while sitting near the beach, a dude wrecked his car into a concrete wall just behind me and just drove away with half his car scratching the ground. we arrived in the late evening and even found a hostel with some nice volunteers to stay at.
    Okumaya devam et