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Camino Francés
  • Making another memory
  • Making another memory

Camino Francés

Making another memoryによる36日間のアドベンチャー もっと詳しく
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  • 旅行の開始
    2022年9月10日
    Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Excited to be on La Rue de la Citadelle.
    Lunch at Le Patio.Overlooking Saint Jean from the Citadel.The view from the garden at Gite Makila.The Béhérobie river runs placidly through Saint Jean.A path along an old wall provides a convenient way through town.

    Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

    2022年9月10日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    We arrived in picturesque Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port this afternoon, after taking a 3-hour train ride from Madrid to Pamplona, followed by a twisty 90-minute taxi ride through the mountains—in a Tesla, no less.

    We shared the taxi with a pilgrim from Seattle, Washington, who generously and unexpectedly covered the full cost of the ride.

    With a little time to kill before we could check in to Gite Makila, we went in search of something to eat. We’d missed the window for a full lunch but were able to get some tasty sliced meats and cheeses nearby.

    After lunch, we dropped our packs off at our lodging and walked up a series of steep, stone steps to the Citadel to admire a lovely view of the town with the Pyrenees looming in the background.

    Returning to our hostal we met a friendly woman from Boston and made plans to go out for dinner as soon as the restaurants re-opened. Following a recommendation from our hospitalero, we went to Le Relais de la Nive at 7 p.m.. The place was almost empty when we got there, but soon packed with a mostly local crowd.

    Tomorrow we start making our way up the mountains. We’ll spend the night at Refuge Orisson, and then continue on the next day to Roncesvalles. This is the hardest stretch of El Camino Frances, and we’re closely watching the weather given the potential for some severe storms on Monday.

    More about that next time!    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    The path was steep, but the views sublime.
    The view from our dorm room at Refuge Orisson.A screenshot that provides some perspective on how steep the elevation gain is on this stretch.We snagged the bunk beds on the right, closest to the window.A most enjoyable lunch at Orisson.Our table at the pilgrim's dinner at Orisson.No matter which way you look, the vistas are beautiful.Leaving St. Jean.

    Day 2: Refuge Orisson

    2022年9月11日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Today’s 7 1/2 kilometer hike was beautiful and brutal. The unfolding views of rolling fields dotted with the occasional sheep, pretty red-roofed farmhouses, and green mountain peaks were stunning. However, the always steep incline of the trail as we climbed 2,221 feet, at an altitude that we’re not adjusted to, had us stopping for frequent breaks.

    The challenge validated our decision to make this a “short” day distance-wise. Arriving at Refuge Orisson at noon and being able to check in right away to our room was an unexpected boost, as we thought we’d likely have to wait until 2 or 3 p.m. to get settled.

    Our seven “roommates” arrived around the same time: a German family group of five, and two Canadian women traveling alone. The Germans are only on the Camino until Pamplona; the Canadians are heading to Santiago. We felt lucky to be placed with such congenial people—in a newer room with stunning views.

    The requisite daily showers (timed, with a token) and laundry (3 Euros for a load that didn’t spin dry) soon followed, along with a tastier than expected lunch at their outdoor restaurant.

    Most online comments that we’d read claimed the food at Orisson is lackluster, but that wasn’t our experience. After lunch, we wrung our clothes out and hunted for spots on a crowded clothesline. Once that was sorted, it was time for a siesta punctuated by chats with our roomies.

    A three-course dinner was served family-style at long tables for about 50 pilgrims. After dinner, we took turns standing up to say where were from and why we were on the Camino. Many of the vignettes were quite moving.

    Our next leg is to Roncesvalles, 17 kilometers away. We’ll climb another 2,690 feet but are told the inclines up aren’t quite as steep as today’s but we will have a steep 2,194 feet descent.

    More about that next time!    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    A statue of the Vierge de Biakorri or the Sheperds Virgin stands watch at Pic D'Orisson.1Two of the many horses we saw along this stretch of the Camino.Clouds loomed while the wind whipped, but we stayed dry.1We think this mare was standing guard as her offspring slept on the ground.1The twirled horns on this guy caught my eye.1Roncesvalles coming into view amidst the forest.Our bunks at the Albergue de Roncesvalles.1One of the buildings in the monastery complex at Roncesvalles.

    Day 3: Roncesvalles

    2022年9月12日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Gale force winds across the high mountains were today’s Camino challenge as we walked the 18 kilometers from Orisson to Roncesvalles. The wind was so intense, we needed to frequently brace ourselves with our hiking poles to stay upright.

    The roaring wind made it hard to have a conversation but kept us cool, so that was a plus! And it was a treat whenever a land feature or a grove of trees provided a welcome wind break. So far, it seems the Camino really has a way of magnifying highs and lows.

    Heedless of the wind, herds of horses, grazing cows, along with flocks of sheep and the occasional sheepdog graced the slopes around us. Many, many of them were wearing bells, and the sound was delightful.

    On a sadder note, at one point, we thought we were seeing a dead horse lying on the ground, with another standing right next to it. After a bit of observation, and seeing a similar pair close by, we surmised that the standing horses were mares guarding their sleeping offspring. That thought made us feel much better!

    Continuing on, we noticed more trees and wildflowers after we crossed into Spain, with some of the forests appearing almost enchanted.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    The village church in Viscarret.
    A house in Viscarret.Our apartment faced the rear, above the small market.The rain precluded picture taking for most of this morning's walk.We walked through a lovely canopy of trees leaving Roncesvalles.A screenshot of today's terrain.

    Day 4: Viscarret

    2022年9月13日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We set out from Roncesvalles in a light rain this morning, opting to walk a couple of kilometers before stopping for breakfast in Burguete.

    We pulled into the first open cafe we saw, ordering coffees, a slice of tortilla española, and a tortilla with tuna bocadillo (sandwich). Once was enough on the latter, for Allan.

    From Burguete we walked about another 10 kilometers to Viscarret, where we’d booked an apartment for the night. Swinging an early checkin with the cashier at a small market was a little rough, but we were thrilled with the accommodations once we got inside. I was so very ready to set down my backpack!

    Maybe it was the trekking up and down hills in the rain, or my expecting today to be an “easy” 12 kilometer walk, or simply that my body isn’t accustomed to three long walks in a row, but I was feeling some aches and pains.

    After the requisite hot showers, we loaded our dirty clothes into the washing machine in the kitchen, and set out for a bite at El Bar de Juan, the village’s sole eatery.

    As we arrived, the German family we’d roomed with at Orisson was just finishing their lunch. Following their recommendation, we enjoyed cups of vegetable soup and ham and cheese tortillas.

    After I finish this post, I’ll go downstairs to the little market to get something for dinner. Tomorrow we’ll walk 15 kilometers to Larrasaoña—and the forecast is for dry weather!    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Descending into the village of Lintzoain.
    Marie and Allan traversing Lintzoain.Autumn is making an appearance in the foliage.The rocks in this section look like giant teeth.2The rocks on the path here form long narrow ruts.Overlooking Zubirí.Allan making way through a grassy field.This was a rather colorful building.Only a few more feet until I can drop my pack for the day!Four of the six bunks in our room at Albergue San Nicolás.A shoe rack and a tub for hiking poles at the door to the albergue.

    Day 5: Larrasaoña

    2022年9月14日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    We’re getting used to hiking up and down hills in Navarra. We covered the 15 kilometers to Albergue San Nicolás in Larrasaoña in 5 hours today, including a couple of rest breaks.

    In this section, the Camino goes through several small villages and skirts the town of Zubirí.

    By turns, it parallels fields with grazing cattle and horses, cuts through birch and pine forests, offers up a few rocky sections that are tricky to get through, and also traverses an industrial site where signs warn pilgrims to stay on the path.

    We bought a light lunch from a food truck along the way, and chatted there with Marie, a pilgrim from France, who was also heading to Albergue San Nicolás.

    When we checked in to the albergue we bought tickets to their pilgrims dinner: 14 Euros per person for a 3-course meal with wine, and let the owner know that Marie would like dinner, too—and to please hold her bed. Some of those who checked in after us were not as lucky. They were directed to a market on the corner.

    Allan also took advantage of the availability of a washer and dryer to clean the clothes we wore on the Camino today. It’s part of the afternoon routine everyday, either hand wash or splurge on a machine, if an option.

    To keep our backpack weights manageable we each carry two sets of walking clothes, plus something to wear to dinner in a larger town or city. So frequent washing is a must!

    Tomorrow we head for Pamplona, another 15 kilometers south. We’re very much looking forward to sampling pintxos (tapas) there.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    I loved the pink bicycle and flowers ar this house in Zuriain.
    Our breakfast at La Parada de Zubirain.A building on the Camino in either Irotz or Zabaldika.The yelliw flowers next to this bridge caught my eye.Walking paralell to the road after Zuriain.1The dreaded stairs up the slope.2The Puente de la Trinidad over the Ulzama river, entering Villalva.One of the Camino markings on the urban sidewalks.The fort wall around Pamplona.The French Portal in Pamplona.The welcome sight of tonight's albergue. We were the first pilgrims of the day to check in.The view up Calle Carmen in Pamplona.Our bunks tonight.2

    Day 6: Pamplona

    2022年9月15日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    We left Larrasaoña at first light, hoping to get to Pamplona before some forecast early afternoon rain.

    Soon, the trail paralleled the placid river Arga. It looked ideal for cooling off on a hot day—Google Maps has a note on a section for swimming. No one was in the water at that early hour, though.

    Breakfast at La Parada de Zuriain 4 kilometers from our albergue was a nice break in our 15k hike to Pamplona. Slices of spinach and zucchini tortillas, coffees, and orange juices provided good fuel for the morning’s remaining hike.

    Leaving Zuriain, we walked alongside a roadway and then soon were climbing a flight of steps up a slope. Not too long after, we spied what we thought was Pamplona in the distance. It turned out to be Villalva, founded in 1184, per a sign in the town.

    From there, our walk continued on pavement until we reached Pamplona. As we walked along the Way, we chatted with pilgrims from England, Mexico, and Norway. More than a few locals greeted us with friendly “buen Caminos.”

    When we reached the Portal of France at the entrance to Pamplona’s old town, an inquisitive tourist from Holland was very interested in our experience on the Camino. Her enthusiasm made my pack feel just a little bit lighter. The mossy wall I was leaning it against as we chatted, helped too.

    Fortunately, tonight’s lodging, Hostal Casa Ibarrola, is just past the French Portal, so I was soon gratefully dropping my pack for the day.

    In addition to the usual stowage area for trail shoes and hiking poles, this hostal has a wall for stowing backpacks. Why, I wondered? The answer was posted in our cubes: it’s intended to prevent the dreaded bedbugs from hitchhiking their way into the albergue.

    On a more uplifting note, it’s been interesting to see how prevalent composting seems to be in Spain.

    When we’ve stopped at food trucks they’ve had a special bin or bag for organic materials, such as banana peels and egg shells. In Pamplona, there are shiny metal bins in trash can rows labeled “organics.” I’ve never seen this in Maryland, Virginia, or Florida.

    Walking around the old town’s cobbled streets reveals a lovely assortment of shops, cafes, and churches. After the quiet time of siesta, locals and tourists fill the streets in the late afternoon.

    Wandering around taking photos in the soft afternoon light, I bumped into a Canadian pilgrim I’d met at yesterday’s hostal and then into an Australian pilgrim I’d met earlier today at Casa Ibarrola. We decided to stop in at Café Iruña for a drink, which was one of Ernest Hemingway’s haunts in Pamplona. The opulent decor hasn’t changed much since then, and it was a pleasant way to rest our feet and chat about our journeys on the Camino thus far.

    Tonight, our intention is to sample some of Pamplona’s famed pintxos, known further south as tapas.

    Tomorrow, we head to Obanos, 22 kilometers away. My shoulders have been protesting my backpack after 7-10 kilometers, so in the morning I’ll put my water and rain poncho in a day pack, and avail myself of a transport service for 5 euros to send my pack ahead to tomorrow’s lodging.

    More about that next time.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Allan looking back at the ground we'd covered on our way up to El Alto del Perdón.
    The windmills on the ridge adjacent to El Alto del Perdón. We'd been eyeing them for several hours.1A selfie with Katie at El Alto de Perdón.A shrine to the Virgin of Ibirundea, near the entrance to Uterga.1This montage insgpired by pilgrims in Uterga made me smile.Salads with fresh greens have been scarce, so I loved this avocado shrimp salad at lunch today.Entering Obanos we noticed these textured scallop shells on the road, indicating El Camino's path.2Allan enjoying our shared balcony and a glass of Rioja at the end of our hike.

    Day 7: Obanos

    2022年9月16日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    The streets in Pamplona’s old town were quiet when we left our albergue around 8 this morning. We stopped for a quick breakfast near the University of Navarra, and were soon climbing hills leading to the Alto de Perdón, a spot included in many films and vlogs focusing on El Camino Francés.

    When we arrived at the iconic spot, we ran into our new friend Katie, a Canadian pilgrim we roomed with at Orisson, and who we’ve since seen a couple of times along The Way.

    After the requisite photos in front of the metal sculptures, the three of us made it down the steep descent to Uterga, where we stopped for a delicious lunch at the Albergue Camino del Perdón.

    Looking towards the mountains behind us, we all felt quite accomplished with the distance we’d covered today from the Alto de Perdón and Pamplona.

    From Uterga, it was another 4.4 kilometers to Casa Raichu, our albergue for the night, where we parted ways with Katie, who had another 2 1/2 kilometers to go to reach her reserved lodging.

    I was THRILLED to find my backpack waiting for me in our third floor room. While at lunch, we’d checked its Apple Tag location and it looked like it was still in Pamplona.

    I hadn’t called the transport company yesterday, trusting that they would pick up at our busy Pamplona hostal, per our host’s vague instructions—but I was worried about fine print on the payment envelope that I’d only read late last night indicating that a phone call was required.

    When we arrived at Casa Raichu I asked our new host if my bag had been delivered, and she said it hadn’t, so I asked if she could please call a taxi who could drive me to Pamplona to retrieve it. Sure, she said, I’ll do that after you get settled.

    Thus the very pleasant surprise at finding that she’d already carried my pack up to our room—but had been confusing me with a guest in a different room.

    To make things even better, she soon delivered two glasses of lovely Rioja to our room with a small plate of potato chips, to tide us over until our 7 p.m. dinner.

    Our private room shares a small balcony with another room, but I’ve yet to see those guests. It also shares a sparkling bathroom with three other rooms on the same floor…but compared to our most recent digs, this feels very luxe.

    Ah, and we dropped our dirty clothes in gingham bag, which she will return clean and folded after dinner. Such a nice way to close out our longest hike so far, at 22k.

    Tomorrow we plan to walk 24 kilometers to Estella.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Leaving Obanos early this morning.
    Admiring Puente de la Reina in the early morning light.Peppers strung on lines in Puente de la Reina.Approaching the bridge in Puente de la Reina.A colorful mural in Mańerú.Golden hued fields leading to Cirauqui.One of the narrow, hilly roads crisscrossing Cirauqui.Keeping track of El Camino was tricky in Cirauqui.Enjoying fruit at the donativo stand with the Spanish ladies.Walking toward Lorca.A church along The Way.Entering Estella.Making way through Estella.

    Day 8: Estella

    2022年9月17日 ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    We hiked 25 beautiful kilometers between our lodging in Obanos and our hostal in Estella, with a few very steep inclines along the way.

    Obanos and Puente de la Reina were glowing in the early morning light.

    Between the towns, we saw a farmer irrigating his crops, and a blue tractor rolling down the road. Red peppers, green tomatoes, and leafy greens were visible along El Camino, giving way to plots of grape vines and olive orchards as the day wore on.

    Fields with hues of brown and gold are becoming prevalent as we move south and west.

    After Puente de la Reina, the path became quite steep leading up to Mańeru.

    It didn’t take long to traverse Mańeru itself, and we could soon see Cirauqui beckoning from its hill. We arrived at that village with a group of Spanish women we’d met at our albergue in Pamplona. They are on their sixth annual weeklong walk on the Camino, and they are a fun, boisterous group. They put on an impromptu 15-minute song and dance fest in front of a Cirauqui cafe before we continued on toward Lorca. Along the way, we sampled fresh fruit from a donativo stand before losing track of our Spanish ladies.

    Lunch was a quick bocadillo and a slice of tortilla in Lorca, with about 9 kilometers to go to reach tonight’s lodging in Estella.

    By the time we arrived, our feet were protesting! Tomorrow we’ll walk 19 kilometers to Los Arcos.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    2Walking through Ayegui in the early morning.
    1Approaching Azqueta.Waiting our turn at the Fuente de Iracha.Pumping wine at 9 a.m. is a unique experience.Leaving Irache.The ultralight flying high.Climbing toward Azqueta.We were through this village ever so quickly.Reaching Villamayor de Monjardín.Descending from Villamayor.An arch in Los Arcos.A colorful sidestreet in Los Arcos.Traversing Los Arcos in search of our albergue.Honking geese at the entrance to Los Arcos.Some encouragement along The Way.

    Day 9: Los Arcos

    2022年9月18日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    It was a chilly 49 degrees Fahrenheit when we left Estella this morning, so we were especially appreciative of the coffees and chocolate pastries we had for breakfast in Ayegui soon after we started walking.

    A little while later, Allan picked up on the hum of an ultralight aircraft and snapped a photo of it above the trees.

    About 40 minutes later, we arrived at the Irache wine fountain, where pilgrims were lining up to sample—or more liberally partake—in the free wine that pumps from a spigot in the wall.

    After waiting our turn, I pumped enough for a good luck sip for each of us. At 9 a.m. it was about all we could contend with!

    From Irache the Camino twisted and turned until we ascended to the tiny village of Azqueta.

    Not long after, we could see the church spire in Villamayor de Monjardín and the ruins of a medieval castle on the steep peak above it.

    After Villamayor de Monjardín, verdant fields of grape laden vines broke up the yellow slopes. We sat on a rocky ledge near one to eat a light lunch of paté and bread that we’d bought at a grocery store across from our hostal last night.

    After lunch, we had about another 10 kilometers to go to reach Los Arcos. The vistas were expansive, with little shade along the way. We noticed huge stacks of baled hay in more than one field.

    When we reached Los Arcos around 2 p.m. we could hear some geese honking along the road.

    Another 8 minutes or so of walking the narrow streets and we reached tonight’s lodging: El Albergue Municipal Isaac Santiago. At 8 euros per bed, this is our most inexpensive and basic lodging so far.

    We checked in before most bunks were filled, and seized the opportunity to take hot showers and get our dirty clothes washed and dried.

    I put my name on a sheet for a full body massage (30 euros), and was told the masseuse comes around 5-ish, so I’ll be heading downstairs for that soon. After that, hopefully we can find something to eat in town.

    Today we walked about 21 1/2 kilometers. Tomorrow we’ll walk 27 kilometers to Logroño, our longest walk so far.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Our friend Sarah took this photo of us somewhere along El Camino today.
    A street scene in Logroño.I stopped to smell these fragrant Camino de Santiago roses.This was a sobering plaque, in memory of Spanish citizens killed in 1936.Today's 29 1/2 kilometers felt long.An interesting facade in Viana.We could see Logroño in the distance, but it was still four hours away.Approaching Torres del Rio as its church bells chimed 8 a.m.Whimsical flower pots in Sansol or Torres del Rio.Sunrise on El Camino leaving Los Arcos.A marching band in Logroño's tapas district.Tapas bar hopping with Sarah (Australia), Marcia (Canada), Sebastian (Germany) and Miriam (Holland).

    Day 10: Logroño

    2022年9月19日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We had a bit of a hiker jam at our lodging in Los Arcos this morning, when those of us trying to get an early start on the long day to Logroño were stymied by the albergue’s locked door.

    The instructions for pressing a button to open were not working. Eventually, someone woke up the hospitalera and she unlocked the door with a key.

    We were soon on our way in the dark, looking forward to breakfast in Sansol, the next town about 7 kilometers away. Alas, no food was available there but we scored delicious tortilla sandwiches in Torres del Rio, which was just 1 kilometer further.

    Much of the rest of the day’s hike was in full sun or on pavement, which makes for a harder walk. Which meant that we were pretty wiped by the time we arrived at our hotel in Logroño.

    Nonetheless, hot showers are always wonderfully restorative, so as soon as I post this we’re off to see about a barber for Allan, and then to sample some pintxos.

    Tomorrow, we’ll have an “easy” 12 1/2 kilometers hike to Navarrete.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Climbing towards the church in Navarrete.
    Searching for today's albergue.These vines near Navarrete were some of the most grape laden we've seen.The ruins of a very old pilgrims hostel, established in 1185, lie a short distance from Navarrete.1Getting close to Navarrete.Looking back at the path we'd walked from Logroño.A reservoir in Parque Guajera leaving Logroño.1These fish in the park looked like they wanted a handout.This looked like a swan...An ornate representation of Nuestra Señora de Rocío in the park.We appreciated the shady paths in the park.A baker at Cafetería Moka, where we enjoyed our second breakfast.These fallen leaves and the cool early morning temperatures herald fall's approach.

    Day 11: Navarrete

    2022年9月20日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    We started this morning with slices of tortilla, coffee, and orange juice breakfast a little less than a kilometer from our hotel in Logroño.

    Not long after we started walking again, I told Allan that if we came across a pastelería I could go for something sweet—and three steps after the words left my month we saw one.

    We were soon enjoying chocolate covered pastries and second cups of coffee. And so we finally had our first “second breakfast,” something we’ve heard many pilgrims joke about.

    All that sustenance, plus a cool breeze made today’s 4-hour hike to Navarrete quite pleasant.

    And after the requisite laundry was washed and hung to dry, we enjoyed a full lunch at a local restaurant. We’re making up on our caloric deficits today!

    Tomorrow, we’ll hike 17k to Najera.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    The huge nest next to this church steeple caught my eye in Nájera.
    Exploring Nájera's old town.2Getting a haircut in Nájera.Crossing the Najerilla river into old town Nájera.An old plow repurposed into yard art.A poem on a wall as we approached Nájera.1A Camino selfie, somewhere between Ventosa and Nájera.Fields undulate toward the Sierra de Cantabria.1A wagon awaiting its cargo of grapes to be turned into Riojan wine.One of the art pieces along the road to Ventosa.Ventosa's church in the early morning light.Another one of the art pieces along the road to Ventosa.2A road marker advertising Ventosa's art kilometer.1Inspirational words on the road to Ventosa.Dawn breaking over the distant mountain range.A slice of fig and nuts tart concluded my three course lunch in Nájera.1Our 4-bunk dorm room in Nájera.

    Day 12: Nájera

    2022年9月21日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We left Navarrete before dawn aiming for breakfast in Ventosa, about 7 kilometers away. It was our chilliest morning yet, with a brisk wind that had me wishing I’d remembered to move my gloves to my daypack, as my backpack remained behind for transport to our next lodging.

    After a little more than an hour’s walk, we found that the final kilometer to Ventosa is as an “art walk.” It was fun to read an inspirational passage and admire poster-sized art along this stretch of The Way.

    By the time we reached the Bar Café Buen Camino, we were more than ready to order hearty breakfasts of sliced tortilla (who knew tortilla would vary so much in flavor and consistency from place to place!, toast with jamón ibérico and tomatoes, chocolate filled pastries, freshly squeezed orange juice, and coffees.

    We left Ventosa with an energetic spring to our steps, admiring the vineyards lining much of the Camino to Nájera. Many of the vines were dripping with grapes. A few, had already been harvested.

    A couple of farm tractors and a few farm vans passed by, kicking up clouds of dust each time.

    As we neared Nájera, we chatted with a pilgrim from Brazil who passed us by. It turned out that she was going to Albergue Puerta de Nájera, so we ended up getting to know her a bit more as we waited for the albergue to allow us all in at 1 p.m.

    I took advantage of the wait time to get a haircut around the corner from the albergue. I’d opted for a short “Camino” cut before we left home, but it had grown in enough to need a trim.

    After checking in—while bumping in to three of our dorm mates from yesterday—we were escorted up two flights if stairs to our shared room. Tonight, we’re in a 4-bunk room. Quite cozy compared to last night’s 12-bunk configuration. This albergue is highly rated, and booked full for the night. The Camino is very busy this year, with an extended Holy Year, plus many who are taking deferred-by-Covid trips augmenting the usual numbers of pilgrims.

    So far, we’re having good luck reserving our lodging the night before: a requirement if I’m scheduling my backpack’s transport for the next morning. When we get closer to Sarria, we’ll book those final few nights to Santiago ahead of time. That’s the recommended approach in a “normal” year, given the higher number of pilgrims on the final 100 kilometers, a requirement to receive a Compostela in Santiago.

    That’s still quite a ways off for us, so today, after taking a shower, I headed off for a solo lunch while Allan took a restorative nap. Dinner last night did not sit well with him, and rest was more appealing this afternoon than a meal. I, meanwhile, am loving the Spanish tradition of a big lunch followed by a light to nonexistent dinner.

    Tomorrow, we’ll head to Santiago de la Calzada, 21 kilometers away.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Searching for our lodging in Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
    Making our way down a side street in Santo Domingo de la Calzada.Approaching Santo Domingo de la Calzada.Pilgrims on El Camino between Cirueña and Santo Domingo de la Calzada.Huffing up a long ascent to get to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.The grape havesting vehicle was quite impressive.The grape harvesting vehicle turning into a vineyard.Approaching Azofra in the early morning light.Sunrise over Nájera.The view from our room at the Parador Santo Domingo.A delicious citrus salad at Restaurante Los Caballeros.

    Day 13: Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    2022年9月22日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Once again we started walking before dawn this morning. Farm trucks were out in force working the grape harvest, and it was fun to strike up a short conversation with two men standing near a harvesting vehicle.

    We’d seen the big blue contraption roll by on the road, and we were hoping we’d catch up with it to see it in action. We didn’t get to see it harvesting grapes, but we were able to hear a little about it.

    We learned it is used to harvest vines with fruit higher off the ground, presumably younger vines. Grapes on older, more traditional vines with lower to the ground fruit are harvested by hand.

    After that chat, we kept walking until we stopped for breakfast at a café in Azofra. Then, satiated by our daily dose of tortilla and pain au chocolat, we kept up a peppy pace until we reached Cirueña, 15 kilometers into our 21k day. We walked past newish townhomes and apartments, but most were closed up. A community park had a lovely playground and a sparkling pool, but no sign of life. Nearby, the garage door and siding, on a nice house that looked quite new, was marred with graffiti. That seemed rather strange.

    After another few minutes we entered what appeared to be the older part of Cirueña; again with no signs of life stirring in the late morning. It was the strangest experience passing through a small town so far, on our Camino.

    Soon we were entering a sea of arid fields. Chats with other pilgrims helped make the final 6 kilometers to Santiago de la Calzada fly by.

    We splurged on a room in the Parador Santo Domingo de la Calzada, and are particularly enjoying the luxury of steaming hot baths today.

    That, and a delicious lunch at the nearby Restaurante Los Caballeros. It’s holding top prize for best meal in Spain, so far.

    Tomorrow, we’ll walk another 22 kilometers to Belorado.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    One of the murals in Belorado.
    This mural is titled "El zapatero."This mural says "La huella del camino."I loved the flowers on this home in Belorado.A mural adorns this street corner in Belorado.The Camino tracked this road for a few kilometers, and then paralleled the highway until Belorado.Nothing was open in Castildelgado except for a tiny bakery.This sign shows the larger towns and villages we'll walk through over the next few days.This sign provided a good overview of the region's history.This sign provides a glimpse of the elevation changes we'll be tackling.A pilgrim making way.Sunrise leaving Santo Domingo de la Calzada.A hot air baloon near Grañón.

    Day 14: Belorado

    2022年9月23日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Today we’re feeling the grind of back-to-back hiking days. A foot injury prompted Allan to send his backpack ahead with mine this morning, but it was still painful for him to walk 23 1/2 kilometers to our albergue in Belorado.

    Much of today’s route paralleled a busy highway, so traffic noise was a frequent companion, too.

    On the plus side, today’s routes took us through several small villages where we stopped for coffees and sparkling waters. We also left Rioja and entered León y Castilla—and haven’t seen a vineyard since.

    Walking in to Belorado, we were charmed by several large murals.

    After waiting in line for a bit to check in at Albergue Cuatro Cantones, we showered, dropped off our basket of dirty laundry to be washed and dried, and strolled up the street for a light bite to eat at a local bar. We’ll have a communal dinner at the albergue at 7:30 tonight.

    Tomorrow, we’ll walk 27 1/2 kilometers to Agés, with much of that being uphill. We expect to have many rest stops along the Way!    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Walking in the rain.
    Much of the Camino today was over red soil.Crossing a bridge after one of several steep descents.An interesting church built into the side of a hill, spotted soon after we left Belorado.Arriving at our lodging in Agés.Our side by side top bunks.

    Day 15: Agés

    2022年9月24日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We had a great 28 1/2 kilometer hike today, despite the drizzly gray weather that had us donning and stowing our ponchos more than once.

    We moved faster and with more ease in the morning and in the afternoon than we’ve done before, proof that we are getting a little bit stronger every day.

    My bottom bunk luck ran out today, however. We thought we were getting in to the Albergue Municipal Taberna de Agés on the early side, but all of the lower bunks in the dormitory had been taken.

    Unlike other places we’ve stayed, this albergue doesn’t assign bunks, so we didn’t have our usual “stack,” where I take the lower bunk bed and Allan takes the top. At least the top bunk has a railing, which isn’t always the case.

    Tomorrow we’ll walk 23 kilometers to Burgos, where we’ll take our first “rest day.”    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    This salad was the best part of a delicious lunch.
    The view from our room at the Hotel Norte y Londres.Getting close to our hotel after walking through 7 kilometers of Burgos.Wide sidewalks and boulevards lined with highrises welcomed us to Burgos.This sign caught our eyes.An hermitage we passed along the way in Orbaneja Ríopico.One of many flowerpot figures we saw in Ríopico.This mural elicited a smile.Starting our descent toward Burgos this morning.A sign calling attention to the magnificent view.Two pilgrims at the base of this cross.Climbing 100 meters from Atapuerca over this rocky path got our blood pumping this morning.Looking back towards Atapuerca.

    Day 16: Burgos

    2022年9月25日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    It was 38 “feels like 35” degrees Fahrenheit when we left Agés before dawn this morning—and I was looking forward to getting a warmer layer of clothing in Burgos. We were thrilled to be on the move, though.

    After last night, we’ll be booking smaller 4 to 8 bed bunk rooms or private rooms. There were two people in the dorm who appeared to be quite ill, along with so much loud, frequent coughing from all directions that we both slept wearing K95 masks.

    The 23 kilometers to Burgos didn’t fly by as effortlessly as yesterday’s mileage, but we did enjoy some beautiful vistas along the way.

    After checking in to our hotel, we set out to find some lunch and were very pleased with a meal we had right around the corner.

    Tonight we’ll have dinner with some pilgrims we’d first met at Orisson, and tomorrow we’ll enjoy a rest day here in Burgos.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Allan enjoyed this chicken and aioli tortilla for lunch. The variety of tortillas amazes us!
    I walked by the cathedral, but decided against waiting in line to get in.I love the wide, tree-lined promenades in Burgos.A busy side street near our hotel.An arched entrance to the cathedral's plaza.Getting the lowdown on the ebikes that were delivered to our hotel.

    Day 17: Rest day in Burgos

    2022年9月26日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    It felt ever so luxurious to stay in bed until mid morning today.

    We’ve walked about 284 kilometers of the Camino Francés so far, with about 493 kilometers yet to get across by October 17. We’ll be taking a train to Madrid the next day, as we begin our journey home to Florida.

    We’ve been concerned we might run out of time to get to Santiago de Compostela, so we decided to rent ebikes to cover 178 kilometers across the meseta from Burgos to León in 3 days—shaving 4 walking days off that stretch.

    Tomorrow, we’ll ease into traveling by bike with a 32k ride to Hontanas.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Catching up with Imma and Sergio, who we've overlapped with many times.
    Chatting with Katie, who we met on Day 2, in Orisson.2Allan managed to snap this selfie of us mid-ride.Admiring the cathedral as we left Burgos this morning.Our room tonight at Hostal Fuentestrella in Hontanas.A street scene in Hornillos del Camino.The Camino meandering across the meseta.A church in Tardajos.The view from our window at Hostal Fuentestrella.

    Day 18: Hontanas

    2022年9月27日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    It was fun to mix things up today with our rental ebikes. We zipped across the 32 kilometers in little more than two hours, with plenty of charge left on the bikes’ batteries.

    Allan joked that we were passing pilgrims like picket fence posts!

    The route was mostly flat, but there was one sneaky, roller coaster style descent that had us riding our brakes for quite some time.

    We stopped along the way several times to chat with pilgrims we’ve met along the way. Since we are leapfrogging ahead quite a bit with the bikes, we may not see them again.

    Then, we shared our lunch table in Hontanas with a German pilgrim we’d seen along the Camino several times but whom we hadn’t had a chance to talk in depth with.

    Given our experience today, we are optimistic about the batteries lasting for tomorrow’s 82 1/2 kilometer ride to Moratinos.

    As we enjoyed our day here, we warily monitored news about Hurricane Ian’s path toward Florida. We are concerned for friends and family in the state, as well as for our property in Saint Augustine and Green Cove Springs. May all be well…    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Allan took a quick breather at the top of our steepest hill this morning.
    The roller coaster ride down from our steepest hill.We're almost halfway to Santiago.A tranquil river view.A view of some locks on the Canal de Castilla.A different view of the locks.Getting ready to pedal away from Fromista.A representative expanse of meseta.An impressive building in Villalcázar de Sirga.The hostal that let us charge our bike batteries this afternoon, a much appreciated kindness!

    Day 19: Moratinos

    2022年9月28日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We set out shortly after 8 a.m. from Hontanas, which would be a late start for walking but was just right for biking.

    We pedaled past several ruins, including the impressive remains of a medieval nunnery before stopping for breakfast in Castrojeriz. It is a long, skinny town of great beauty.

    After Castrojeriz we soon came upon the steepest hill of the day. The batteries on our rented ebikes were extremely helpful in providing extra oomph to get us to the top without stopping. After a short bit of level riding, we then faced another roller coaster drop off the hill.

    By the time we arrived in Fromista, which was a little shy of our halfway point, our batteries were down to 2 of 5 bars. So we stopped in a cafe bar, asked if we could charge while we ate, and spent a pleasant hour eating tortillas and bocadillos, and drinking coffee and tinto de verano.

    Setting off from Fromista, the headwinds we’d been battling all day seemed to intensify. Riding with the wind whistling in my ears was a constant reminder of Hurricane Ian’s strong winds bearing down on our home state of Florida today.

    Three towns prior to our lodging, my bike’s battery died. We tried swapping in Allan’s battery which still had some charge, but it didn’t fit. So we took turns alternating between the bikes from then until we reached Calzadilla de la Cueza, a few kilometers down the Camino.

    The first albergue I approached asking to buy 30 minutes of electricity turned me away, suggesting that I try one of the town’s bars. The first was closed, but we got lucky at the second. An hour later we were on our way with enough charge to make it to Albergue San Bruno in time for quick showers before the 7 p.m. communal meal. All in, we pedaled close to 90 kilometers today.

    Sitting down to dinner, we were delighted to bump into a father-son duo we’d met at Orisson.

    Tomorrow, we’ll bike about 65 kilometers to Leon, and relinquish our two-wheeled steeds.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    1León's cathedral is right around the corner from our hostal.
    A street view in León.Making our way to our lodging.A mural that caught my eye on today's ride.

    Day 20: León

    2022年9月29日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We completed our 3-day ebike ride today, arriving at Hostal Albany in León in the early afternoon.

    My bike’s battery almost made it all the way, but it died a kilometer and change shy of our lodging, so I pushed it up the final hill.

    The forecast called for rain, and we pedaled through a few sprinkles but we didn’t get soaked. All the weather references bring our minds back to Florida, where Ian has been wreaking havoc. Our hearts are heavy for friends who live in Cape Coral, so close to where Ian made landfall with 150 mph winds.

    Tomorrow we’ll walk 32 kilometers to Hospital de Órbito, our longest stretch yet. It looks like the terrain is fairly flat, so we’re hoping it will be a very doable day.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    The cathedral in León glowed in this morning's light.

    Day 21 - León

    2022年9月30日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    We opted to take an unplanned rest stop in León today, while I recover from some bug I picked up along the Way.

    We’ve been pushing pretty hard almost every day for the past three weeks, and my body is welcoming the rest as evidenced by all the hours of extra sleep it is happily enjoying.

    I dragged myself out of bed for coffee a block away this morning, napped for several hours, and roused myself again for a nice lunch three blocks away. A troupe of visiting musicians, a “tuna” from Southern Spain, spent their lunch break jamming from a neighboring café, adding a lovely touch to our meal.

    Now, after a nice postprandial soak in a tub of hot water, I’m ready to snooze again.

    Securing accommodations has been a challenge —and after our unpleasant stay in the “infirmary” dorm in Agés on September 24 we’re sticking to private rooms for the rest of our trip—so tomorrow we’ll hop in a taxi to cover the 50-plus kilometers to Murias de Rechivaldo, which we would have walked today and tomorrow had we not stopped here today.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Walking through an old arch or "puerta" to reach our new hotel.
    The cathedral looms on the distance.Another street view from our "move" across town.A large piece of art at a park near our new hotel.

    Day 22 - León

    2022年10月1日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    We always say that a sailor’s plans are written in sand at low tide, and it seems that holds true even when we’re on land walking El Camino.

    I had a rough night, and we decided to book two more nights here in León to allow for more recovery time—at a different hotel because space was not available where we were staying.

    Our first hotel was just a few steps away from the cathedral, in a very lively section of the old city. Our new hotel, a 10 minute walk away is in a quieter residential area.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Colorful banners line up in front of the cathedral for San Froilán.
    The streets continued to fill in even more as the day wore on.One of the provincial carts in today's competition.A view showing the laden carts waiting to start their parade.

    Day 23 - León

    2022年10月2日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Our stay in León has coincided with the Festival de San Froilán, and Allan made a brief foray into the throngs of hundreds of thousands of visitors today to reach an open farmacia.

    The weather has warmed up nicely today, making for a beautiful day for such a gathering in front of the cathedral, and the nearby streets and plazas.

    According to a local news story, the banners he saw lined up in front of the cathedral were marched through the streets and ceremonially stowed away earlier this afternoon.

    The donkey-drawn cart that Allan encountered was likely one of the provincial town’s entries into a competition, where the year’s “best” cart was to be selected this afternoon. They are laden with baked goods, cured meats, and traditional clothing and ribbons. After a two-year hiatus, the field was comprised of 37 carts: 16 drawn by bovines, 12 by donkeys, and 9 by horses.

    Tomorrow we will finally leave León, taking a taxi 102 kilometers to Ponferrada, where we would have been without this unplanned stop.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    Lautico Fernandez Fernandez was a most personable driver.
    Lautico carrying our backpacks the final, steep meters to our hotel in Ponferrada.A street view in Ponferrada.Another stret view in Ponferrada.The view from our room at the Hotel Los Templarios.A shot of Astorga as we drove past it by taxi.

    Day 24 - Ponferrada

    2022年10月3日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We leapfrogged a 102 kilometer section of the Camino by taxi today, covering in a 90-minute drive what would have taken us four days to walk.

    We lucked out with our driver, Lautico Fernandez Fernandez. He offered excellent commentary along the way, pointing out where the Camino went when we couldn’t see it from the car, providing highlights of the towns we passed by, and sharing a bit about his family’s background as blacksmiths in the Gradefes area of León.

    When we finally reached Ponferrada, the GPS system wasn’t helpful getting the car to our hotel’s door. Lautico was reluctant to let us walk the final bit despite our assurances that it wasn’t a problem.

    After it became clear that a short walk was in order, he insisted on carrying both of our heavy backpacks up the steep hill—and then refused to accept a tip. “Just call on me the next time you’re in León,” he said.

    Our hotel is very close to the Castillo de los Templarios, so we were looking forward to checking it out after lunch…but it is closed on Mondays. Since we have a short hike to Camponaraya planned tomorrow, we may stop in when the castle opens at 10 a.m.    もっと詳しく

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  • Making another memoryCamino Francés旅行者
    1One of the many "frames" offered by the Castillo.
    After seeing so many ruined castles from afar, it was thrilling to see these well-preserved turrets.Seeing this bridge over the River Sil made it easy to imagine Templars guarding the iron bridge.Not sure if this is a replica or an original catapult.This exhibit was about castle history in Spain.A defensive spot on the castle's wall.Looking out towards Cabrera.A meeting room in the castle's library.One of the many medieval books on display.1A delicious lunch at Restaurante La Casona in Fuentesnuevas.One of the many blooming gardens we walked past today.1Sculptures at La Fábrica de Luz museum in Ponferrada.

    Day 25 - Camponaraya

    2022年10月4日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Before we left Ponferrada today, I spent an hour touring El Castillo de Los Templarios. After walking past so many castle ruins along El Camino, it was a treat to wander around this restored property.

    The Templars occupied the original structure in 1178, and expanded upon it until they were disbanded in 1312. They were tasked with protecting pilgrims on El Camino de Santiago from the Moors, securing an adjacent iron bridge with strategic importance between Galicia and León, as well as serving the Kings of Spain.

    Informational panels around the grounds explain how it has been fought over and changed ownership during subsequent centuries.

    Walking its ramparts, it’s easy to feel transported to times long past.

    After leaving Ponferrada, we ran into Bronwyn, a pilgrim from Australia who we first met at Orisson, and who we’ve since encountered several times along the Way. We chatted for a bit, and then she sped off, as she was hoping to go three times as far as our 10k today.

    We stopped for lunch in Fuentesnuevas, opting for Restaurante La Casona based on its 4 1/2 star Google rating. It was fantastic, and it seemed we were the only pilgrims there.

    We only had another 2 kilometers to walk after lunch, and we were happy to be settled into tonight’s hostal room shortly after 4 p.m.

    Tomorrow’s destination is Trabadelo, 24 kilometers away.    もっと詳しく

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