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- Dag 43
- tirsdag 14. oktober 2025
- 🌧 11 °C
- Høyde: 3 783 ft
JapanKusatsu36°37’26” N 138°35’57” E
🇯🇵🌋🌧️Day 42🌧️🌋🇯🇵
14. oktober, Japan ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
38 miles (61 km) / 6,485 ft (1,977 m) / 4:20
Today was one of those days we had circled on the calendar since the beginning of our trip. A true cycling challenge on National Highway 292, the highest paved national highway in Japan, winding through the volcanic landscape of Mount Kusatsu-Shirane, an active stratovolcano known for its striking crater lakes and 上信越高原国立公園 (Jōshin’etsu Kōgen Kokuritsu Kōen – Joshin’etsu Kōgen National Park). The route climbs from 山ノ内 (Yamanouchi) toward 草津温泉 (Kusatsu Onsen), and at its highest point crests above 7,300 feet (2,307 meters).
We were up before dawn, knowing this would be a long day. Breakfast was served at 7:00 a.m. sharp, a traditional Japanese breakfast of grilled fish, scrambled eggs, rice, miso soup, tea, and a few small pickles. Before sitting down, we had already loaded the bikes so we could hit the road right after eating. While waiting for breakfast, I talked with two young men from New York who had just started their journey by train and bus through Japan. They reminded me of Tyler and Sebastian, full of excitement, ready for anything, and starting their own adventure.
Outside, the sky was heavy and gray. We had received an alert earlier that part of Highway 292 was temporarily closed between the Manza Onsen Junction and Kusatsu Tenguyama Gate due to volcanic activity, so we knew the road might be unpredictable. Sure enough, about sixteen minutes into our ride, the mist turned to drizzle, and the drizzle turned into a steady, cold rain.
The climb stretched on for 14.5 miles (23.3 km), gaining 4,732 feet (1,442 m). The higher we climbed, the harder the rain came down. We passed steaming vents and alpine meadows that disappeared into fog. Somewhere along the way, we stopped at 平床大噴泉 (Hiratoko Daifunsen – Hiratoko Geyser), a natural vent in the volcanic earth that releases bursts of hot water and steam. The warmth felt incredible against the cold, and we laughed at how it was the only heated rest stop we’d find all day.
At the summit, we reached Mt. Yokote, home of the cozy Café 2307, named for its altitude. Nothing could have tasted better than a hot café latte at that moment. We lingered for a few minutes inside, dripping wet, watching the fog swirl around the volcanic peaks before we started the long descent.
The downhill should have been glorious, but the weather had other plans. The wind picked up sharply, and the temperature dropped fast. Between the freezing air, the fog, and the slick pavement, we could hardly see the views we had hoped for. My hands were so cold I could barely feel the brakes. About ten miles from our overnight town, our turn did not exist. Our only choice was to continue riding down the mountain. Near the Tsumagoi Golf Course, we encountered a man stationed just before the tollbooth. We struggled to communicate, neither of us speaking much of the other’s language, but in true Japanese spirit, he refused to leave the situation unresolved. With patience, hand gestures, and a lot of smiles, he helped us understand how to proceed, and eventually we were waved through the toll road, knowing (or thinking we knew through broken Japanese and English) that we had to turn left at the gate. We passed several gates, and none of them seemed right. We ended up finding another climb that was a mountain road through the forest. Again, ringing our bells to keep the wild animals away while slipping on the wet moss and early fall leaves, we made it back to our originally planned route.
Thinking we were in the clear and feeling good because “we were almost there,” it happened. Just four miles (6.4 km) from Kusatsu, my rear derailleur cable snapped. I managed to manually shift the chain into an easier gear, but it meant standing on the pedals for the last two miles (3.2 km) up a cold, steady climb. We rolled into Kusatsu Onsen soaked, frozen, and about two hours too early to check in at our guesthouse.
Kusatsu is one of Japan’s most famous hot spring towns, known for its bubbling geothermal vents and constant clouds of rising steam. The sulfur smell hangs in the air, but in a strangely comforting way, like proof that the earth here is alive. The heart of the town, 湯畑 (Yubatake – hot water field), is a large, open-air basin where hot spring water gushes from the ground and flows through wooden channels. Around it are narrow streets, steaming footbaths, and the elegant 光泉寺 (Kōsenji – Kosen Temple) perched just above the springs.
We walked our bikes slowly through the busy streets, scanning for somewhere warm. It felt almost like being in a parade, as people stopped to look at our loaded bikes and smile at the drenched foreigners trudging through the mist. We met a couple from California, Rachel and Jay, who were traveling around Japan in a camper van. Rachel works in the bicycle industry for Giant, and Jay and Lisa discovered they both knew of a playground that Lisa had designed in Ojai, California. It was a short but fun conversation, and their friendly energy lifted our spirits after a cold, hard day on the bike.
Soon after, we found a small, quiet, and cozy Indian restaurant tucked on a side street. The owner welcomed us in and made us steaming chai, curry, and cheese naan that hit every note of comfort we needed. Just as we finished eating, the owner of our guesthouse, 草津温泉ゲストハウス暁天 (Kusatsu Onsen Guesthouse Gyoten), messaged that our room was ready.
Mao, the owner, was incredibly kind, letting us bring the bike inside out of the rain so we could replace the broken cable. He even placed our soaked shoes next to the heater to dry. Once the maintenance was done, we showered and took a short evening walk to explore the city, umbrellas in hand. We found a small Japanese restaurant on the second floor of a building overlooking the steaming streets below. From the window, we could watch the Yubatake glowing with soft green and purple lights through the rising mist.
We fell asleep instantly, our legs tired, our hearts full, and our spirits warmed by the kindness of strangers and the steady rhythm of the journey.Les mer
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- Dag 44
- onsdag 15. oktober 2025
- ☁️ 19 °C
- Høyde: 2 028 ft
JapanNumata36°40’10” N 139°12’35” E
🎌👺Day 43 👺🎌
15. oktober, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
49 miles / 4,940 ft. / 4:58
We woke up to the sun trying to peek through the clouds, so Lisa quickly opened the curtains. The gentle warmth felt like it was thawing our spirits after days of cold rides. Before the city stirred, we decided to explore on foot with hot 7/11 coffee in one hand and a crispy apple croquette and chocolate éclair in the other. The streets were quiet and smelled faintly of sulfur from the nearby hot springs. A friendly Japanese obāsan (a kind word for an elderly woman kind of like grandma) waved us over to her small stall and offered us a taste of a warm steamed bun filled with sweet red bean paste, called 温泉まんじゅう (onsen manju – hot spring steamed bun). She was steaming them using natural onsen water. The kindness of people here never fails to amaze us.
Back at the guesthouse, our host Mao greeted us with his usual big smile. Before we left, he wanted to take some pictures together. It was so sweet, and we were honored to pose with him in front of the house. With bikes loaded, we rolled out through the narrow streets of the famous hot spring town. As we were gradually pedaling up one of the first hills to leave town, we suddenly heard someone shouting from a car to our right. It was Mao, leaning out the window, waving and cheering, “がんばって!” (ganbatte – good luck, do your best!). Lisa laughed and said, “I love this place!” Moments like that stay with you.
Once we were out of town, the clouds rolled back in, but there was no rain. The route promised plenty of climbing again, this time over several small passes that dipped and rose like waves. The first climb along 国道55号 (Kokudō gojūgo-gō – National Highway 55) was one of the most beautiful yet, curving through green valleys and tiny mountain hamlets. With hidden little shrines along the road side with luscious green moss showing their age.
We stopped near 中之条・折田 (Nakanojō–Orida) at a small farmers market where we picked up beans, rice, and a cold grape soda for lunch. We carried it to nearby 臨勝寺 (Rinshō-ji – Rinsho Temple) and enjoyed it under a tall cherry tree, listening to the city chimes ringing softly in the distance. A nice man stopped and talked to us, inquiring about our adventures. We also discussed the cherry tree and together we thought it was somewhere around 100 years old.
Not long after, we met Steve, a cyclist from Scotland who was also touring Japan. It was funny because we had just finished our lunch stop and you could tell Steve also was hesitant about stopping as he was on a downhill, but we both decided to stop. We talked for quite a while about travel, the kindness of people here, and the ups and downs of life on the road. He had endured a long, rainy day before, and we wanted to offer something small to lift his spirits. We gave him a bag of our favorite spicy peanuts and rice crackers, called 柿の種 (kaki no tane – literally “persimmon seeds”), a snack we’ve come to love. It felt good to share something after having received so much kindness ourselves. Steve seemed happy to meet us and cheerful to hear our advice. Encounters like that always brighten our days.
The road ahead twisted through dense forest, where every surface was slick with soft green moss. We joked about not sliding out as we descended, warning each other to watch for fallen chestnuts and the moss-covered curves. It was one of the toughest descents of the trip, a road that had been shifted by earthquakes and washed out by storms.
At the bottom, a local farmer waved us down. He looked worried and spoke quickly, and although we didn’t understand most of what he said, one word stood out: 熊 (kuma – bear). To make sure we understood, he mimed a big bite toward my arm with his hand. That got the message across. We thanked him with a friendly ありがとう (arigatō – thank you) and rerouted toward a busier road.
As the day drew to a close, we rolled through the peaceful gardens of the 沼田城跡 (Numata-jō ato – Numata Castle ruins), once home to a 16th-century fortress built by the Sanada clan. The old stone walls, autumn trees, and quiet paths made it a beautiful way to end the ride.
That evening we checked into one of our stranger guesthouses yet. It was an old wooden house run by an elderly couple—or maybe they weren’t a couple at all, we couldn’t quite tell. The おばあさん (obāsan – grandmother) greeted us with a shy smile, and at first, I thought neither of them spoke English. Then the gentleman surprised us with nearly perfect English, explaining that he had lived in Hawaii and New York years ago. Our room was enormous, with tatami mats and two soft futons laid side by side.
When we finally rolled down the big hill to dinner, it felt like a reward. We ate at a small Chinese restaurant beside 大釜温泉 (Ōigama Onsen) along the 片品川 (Katashina-gawa – Katashina River). Lisa ordered sweet-and-sour pork, and we shared gyoza, chicken appetizers, and a big bowl of brown rice. I had a giant plate of 焼きそば (yakisoba – fried noodles) and a cold beer. Somehow, all of this was under twenty dollars, which still amazes us.
The ride back up the hill was slow, and we were grateful for any reason to stop. We took night photos beside the massive 大蛇 (daija – giant serpent) that the town is famous for. This enormous paper-and-bamboo snake measures 108.22 meters long and is paraded through the streets during the annual 大蛇祭 (Daija Matsuri – Giant Serpent Festival). The snake represents protection, prosperity, and the strength of the community. During the festival, hundreds of locals carry the great serpent through town, weaving it like a living dragon to honor the river gods and pray for good fortune. Nearby stood a fierce-looking 天狗 (tengu – a mythical creature with a red face and long nose) mask, a guardian figure believed to keep evil spirits away.
By the time we reached the guesthouse again, we were completely exhausted. The lights of the town shimmered below, and the quiet hum of the onsen drifted through the valley. This was another day full of kindness, laughter, and the unexpected moments that make traveling in Japan so special.
Japanese of the Day
温泉まんじゅう (onsen manju) – hot spring steamed bun
熊 (kuma) – bear
柿の種 (kaki no tane) – spicy rice crackers
大蛇 (daija) – giant serpent
大蛇祭 (Daija Matsuri) – Giant Serpent Festival
天狗 (tengu) – long-nosed demon-like guardian spirit
おばあさん (obāsan) – grandmother
がんばって (ganbatte) – good luck, do your best
ありがとう (arigatō) – thank youLes mer
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- Dag 45
- torsdag 16. oktober 2025
- 🌧 17 °C
- Høyde: 1 194 ft
JapanNikkō36°49’29” N 139°42’49” E
🎌🥶Day 44🥶🎌
16. oktober, Japan ⋅ 🌧 17 °C
59 mile / 5,625 ft. / 5:18
We started the day in Gunma, in a small area called Okkai. With a strong forecast of rain starting at 9:00 a.m., we planned to get on the road early. We woke up around 6:15, hustled through our morning routine, and were out the door by 7:00. Our hope was to beat the rain over the pass and stay ahead of it.
As we stepped outside the guesthouse, a cold mist was already falling, but we convinced ourselves it would clear once we climbed higher into the mountains. Once again, this was supposed to be one of the most beautiful rides of the trip — a long 24 mile (38.6 km) climb with about 5,000 feet in elevation gain on Route 120 over the pass, followed by a descent down the famous Tochigi Prefectural Route 120, known for its endless switchbacks and incredible autumn views of the Japanese Alps.
Instead, the rain only got heavier. By the time we reached the top of the climb, visibility was down to about 30 feet (10 m). The tunnel at the summit felt like it might be a gateway to better weather, but on the other side it was somehow even worse — thicker fog, harder rain, colder wind.
It’s hard to explain the feeling of putting hundreds of hours into planning a route, dreaming for 25 years about cycling through the Japanese mountains in autumn, and then not being able to see more than a few feet in front of you. All those brilliant red and gold leaves we imagined were just ghostly shapes in the mist.
We were wearing almost every piece of clothing we brought—five layers on top, leg warmers, wool socks, plastic bags over our shoes, and two pairs of wool gloves — and we were still freezing. It’s hard to believe we started this trip in 100°F (38°C) heat, and now we couldn’t even feel our fingers. At this point, I’d say the Japanese typhoon season has officially beaten me.
The descent, which should have been an incredible ride through the mountains, was pure survival — slow, tense, and wet. Every turn was slick, and we gripped the brakes so hard our hands ached. This was supposed to be the kind of ride you dream about. Instead, it was the kind that wears you down and tests every bit of patience you have left.
Shivering and soaked from the descent, we spotted a Lawson (ローソン, Rōson) convenience store and knew we needed to take shelter and grab something warm to eat. Luckily, there were a few seats by the window where we could sit and watch the touristic city of Nikkō (日光, Nikkō) through the drizzle. Lisa had a hot bun filled with beef, and I had a steaming bowl of ramen. We also picked up some hot cans of coffee, which felt amazing just to hold in our frozen hands.
While we were thawing out, a friendly guy from Australia struck up a conversation with us, and he told us about the Nikkō Tōshōgū Autumn Festival (日光東照宮秋季大祭, Nikkō Tōshōgū Shūki Taisai) happening nearby — a celebration with men dressed as samurai on horseback performing yabusame (流鏑馬 – horseback archery), all in honor of Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川家康), the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate.
We decided to venture up to see the reenactment and stood among the crowds trying to catch a glimpse of the event. With all the umbrellas and people packed together, it was hard to see much, so we slipped away from the crowd — and luckily, we ended up right along the path where the horses and samurai re-enactors processed toward the festival. It was perfect. We were nearly alone and got to see the horses and samurai warriors up close, their armor glinting with rain.
We were too cold and drenched to go visit the famous shrine afterward. Nikkō is well known for its shrines, especially the Tōshōgū Shrine (東照宮), part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. Still, we weren’t too disappointed; we’ve often found more beauty in the smaller, hidden shrines where the big tour groups don’t go.
By evening, we made it to a part of Nikkō called Kinugawa-Kawaji Onsen Village (鬼怒川・川治温泉郷) and were relieved to find that our hotel had an onsen (温泉 – hot spring). That small discovery lifted our spirits immediately. We had our own little private bungalow, and after a long soak in the onsen, a few encouraging texts from Annie and Yuki, and Lisa doing her best to keep me from losing it completely, I started to feel a bit better. It had still been a rough day — but at least it was ending warm.
We decided to head out for dinner, hoping to finish the day with a proper meal. The curry restaurant we’d marked on the map was supposed to stay open until 8:00 p.m., but when we arrived at 6:30, the sign said “Closed for the night.” We walked another quarter mile to an Italian restaurant, only to find it was “reservations only.” At that point, we gave up and went back to 7-Eleven (セブン-イレブン, Sebun-Irebun). The food was warm, filling, and honestly not bad — but it still felt disappointing after such a long, tough day.
Today was one of those days that reminds you cycle touring isn’t always magical. Sometimes it’s cold, wet, frustrating, and a bit demoralizing. But that’s part of what makes the good days so meaningful — you have to earn them.
Tonight, we’re just grateful for a hot bath, a roof over our heads, and a bit of warmth. Tomorrow will be another day, and sunshine is in the forecast.
————
About Nikkō and Kinugawa-Kawaji Onsen Village
Nikkō (which means “sunlight”) has been a sacred site for centuries, blending Shintō and Buddhist traditions in a stunning mountain setting. The Tōshōgū Shrine, dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, is one of Japan’s most ornate, covered in intricate carvings and gold leaf. The surrounding cedar-lined avenues were designed to honor the spirits of the Tokugawa shoguns and have inspired travelers for generations.
A short distance away, Kinugawa-Kawaji Onsen Village sits along the Kinugawa River, known since the Edo period for its healing mineral waters. It became a popular getaway for Tokyo residents seeking relaxation after pilgrimages to Nikkō’s shrines. Even today, the air feels charged with that same calm energy — a quiet reminder that sometimes the best part of the journey comes not from grand views, but from simple warmth and renewal.Les mer
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- Dag 46
- fredag 17. oktober 2025
- ☀️ 22 °C
- Høyde: 413 ft
JapanDaigo36°45’55” N 140°21’34” E
🇯🇵👹Day 45👹🇯🇵
17. oktober, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
52 miles / 2,215 ft. / 4:15
We woke to sunlight spilling through the windows, painting the mountainside in gold. Our lovely cottage was tucked quietly into the cliffside, overlooking the river below and the rocky bluffs across. Yesterday’s cold rain felt like a distant memory. Today promised warmth, calm skies, and gratitude for another beautiful day in Japan.
Lisa did a bit of work while I dozed a little longer, then she handed me a hot cup of coffee and a chocolate croissant. Oishii! (おいしい – delicious). It was a slow, gentle start, the kind you feel thankful for. We decided to explore the town before heading out, and since we guessed there was a shoe dryer at the nearby laundromat, and to our luck we found the shoe oven, put our shoes in to bake, and wandered off to see the local sights.
We climbed the mysterious “Demon Stairs,” crossed the long suspension bridge swaying gently over the river, and paused at a few statues that seemed to watch silently over the valley. There’s something about small-town Japan that blends myth, nature, and art in a way that feels both ancient and welcoming.
On the way back to reclaim our shoes, we stopped by for our favorite quick breakfast: yogurt, bananas, and a flaky pastry. Simple pleasures always do the trick after a hard day, and we sat in our cottage with our breakfast and enjoyed the mountain view over Kinugawa River quietly taking in the morning.
By midmorning, we had packed up our bags and were back on the road. The sun warmed our backs as we pedaled away from the mountains, their peaks fading slowly behind us. Around lunchtime, we stopped at a small clearing overlooking the valley, a perfect spot to say goodbye to the highlands. Maybe we were reflecting, or maybe just delaying the next climb—it’s always hard to tell.
The rest of the afternoon unfolded like a familiar tune, a mix of rolling climbs and gentle descents through forested roads. The light filtered through the trees, and the scent of cedar and pine filled the air. With a slight tailwind pushing us along, we reached our guesthouse in Daigo, Ibaraki earlier than expected.
Check-in was smooth and welcoming. The staff women smiled warmly and even let us wheel our bicycles right into our room. After a quick load of laundry, we cleaned up and headed out for dinner. Tonight’s meal was tonkatsu (とんかつ – breaded pork cutlet), one of our longtime favorites. It brought back memories of our trip ten years ago with Sebastian—his go-to meal back then.
The little restaurant was alive with laughter, a group of young men in their twenties enjoying food, drinks, and friendship. Watching them reminded us of Sebastian and his friends, and we couldn’t help but smile.
After dinner, we strolled back through the quiet streets under a clear autumn sky. The short walk was just enough to settle full stomachs and full hearts. Back at the guesthouse, we turned out the lights, grateful for another day of sunshine, warmth, and gentle miles.Les mer
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- Dag 47
- lørdag 18. oktober 2025
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Høyde: 33 ft
JapanKitaibaraki36°47’29” N 140°44’39” E
🎌🍎Day 46🍎🎌
18. oktober, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
37 miles / 3,380 ft. / 3:34
We woke up to a foggy morning in 大子 (Daigo – Daigo), the mist curling through the valley and wrapping the surrounding hills in soft gray. The air was cool, around the mid-50s °F (10 °C), and the world felt calm and still. It was one of those mornings that made the hot cup of coffee and the smell of miso soup feel extra comforting. The forecast called for warming temperatures and sunshine later in the day, which gave us something to look forward to as we got ready for the road.
The guesthouse owner, Hideo Kasi, had heard from his staff about our long bicycle journey across Japan, and when we came into the breakfast area,, he greeted us with a bright smile and a “おはようございます!” (ohayō gozaimasu – good morning). He was clearly proud of his guesthouse and especially proud of the breakfast he was preparing himself. It was a traditional Japanese breakfast: steaming rice, grilled trout, pickles, miso soup, and yes, the infamous 納豆 (natto – fermented soybeans). We chatted with Hideo as we ate, learning that there was a bicycle race happening nearby that day. Though our routes didn’t cross, we did spot a few volunteers at breakfast, clearly preparing for the event, all with that same spirit of cheerful busyness that seems to define Japanese mornings.
By the time we rolled out around 9:00 a.m., the fog had begun to lift, the hills slowly revealing themselves in soft sunlight. The promise of a beautiful day ahead put an extra spring in our pedaling. Though it was planned as a shorter day, there were still plenty of climbs ahead, and we joked that every “last hill” was never truly the last. “Well, this might be the last mossy descent,” Lisa laughed, and I replied, “Until the next one!”
Early in the ride, we made a pact that we had to stop at one of the apple stands we kept seeing along the roadside. This area around northern Ibaraki is well-known for its apples, and every few miles we passed handmade signs with cheerful drawings of bright red fruit. When we finally pulled into a small roadside apple market, it turned out to be one of the highlights of the day.
Five older ladies were working the stand, each one more enthusiastic than the next. They waved us over the moment they spotted our bicycles, smiling and calling out “いらっしゃいませ!” (irasshaimase – welcome). Before we could even ask for a sample, they were slicing apples, offering pieces on tiny toothpicks, and laughing at our expressions as we tried each one. We must have tasted at least six different kinds—some sweet, some tart, all so crisp and fresh!
The ladies encouraged us to eat more and more, clapping and laughing every time we reacted with “おいしい!” (oishii – delicious). One apple in particular caught our attention—it was crisp, juicy, and balanced perfectly between sweet and tangy. When we pointed to it, one of the women wrote down its name in romaji for us: “Nōko.” She explained, laughing, that her own name was also Noko, and she seemed delighted that we had chosen “her apple.” The moment turned into an impromptu photo session with lots of smiles, clumsy Japanese, and their equally clumsy English. When it was time to go, all five of them came outside, waving and calling out “気をつけて!” (ki wo tsukete – be careful) as we rolled away, their kindness echoing behind us. It was such a simple moment, yet so full of warmth and connection—it’s the kind of thing that stays with you long after the road bends out of sight.
The rest of the day carried that same lighthearted feeling. We climbed gently through small foothills, riding past orchards that glowed in the midday sun. The scent of ripening fruit lingered in the air, and the clouds finally gave way to blue skies and soft sunshine. After about 20 miles (32 km), hunger crept back in despite our hearty breakfast, so we stopped at a convenience store, gathered some supplies, and found an old schoolyard with a mountain view. There we enjoyed our picnic of potato-cheese croquettes, rice balls, a few chips, and a shared Coke—a perfect roadside feast. Simple meals always taste best after a good climb.
With about 10 miles (16 km) to go, we decided to stay on our mapped route instead of cutting straight to the coast. That small decision turned out to be a gift. The road narrowed and curved uphill toward a cluster of old buildings and a quiet cemetery on a hillside. Rounding the bend, we were surprised to see a golden pagoda shimmering in the afternoon light, with a giant gold Buddha gazing serenely east toward the ocean. Below him were rows of small stone figures dressed in red hats and bibs—the beloved 地蔵 (Jizō – guardian of travelers and children). Each seemed to hold a story, a prayer, a piece of someone’s love.
Although we couldn’t find an official name for the site, the location sits within the greater historic area of 高萩市下手綱 (Takahagi-shimotetsuna, Takahagi City) The town of Takahagi (高萩市 Takahagi-shi – Takahagi City) traces its roots to the Edo period as part of the Matsuoka Domain of Hitachi Province. The pagoda and Buddha statue are part of a small local temple complex typical of rural Ibaraki—places built by the community for remembrance and quiet reflection. The lines of Jizō statues dressed in red are expressions of devotion and protection, each representing prayers for children, safe journeys, and compassion. The whole place felt deeply peaceful, and we spent nearly forty minutes wandering the grounds, completely alone, marveling at how such a beautiful place could exist without a single tourist. Hidden gems like this seem to find us more than we find them.
From there, we coasted down winding lanes and soon caught our first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean. The sky was brilliant blue, and the waves were roaring. I tried to ride my bike down through the sand to the water—an instant failure—but it made Lisa laugh. Lisa joined me on the sand as she sprinted ahead into the surf , getting caught by a wave up to her shoulders. We spent time wandering the beach, picking up sea glass, taking photos, and just soaking up the sound of the tide. It felt like the perfect way to close another chapter of this adventure.
Our hotel was only a mile and a half (2.4 km) from the beach. After cleaning up, we found a small western-style Japanese restaurant nearby that specialized in ハンバーグ (hanbāgu – hamburger steaks). The young owner, Akito, was incredibly kind and a little nervous about his English, and that he didn’t have buns for his hamburgers. When we told him it was fine and used our favorite all-purpose Japanese word—大丈夫 (daijōbu – it’s okay)—he relaxed and laughed. He proudly explained that most men choose the garlic sauce and most women pick teriyaki, so naturally Lisa and I ordered one of each. While we waited, we sipped on cold draft ナマビール (nama bīru – draft beer) and watched him cook carefully in his open kitchen. When our meals arrived on sizzling iron plates, the aroma was incredible. The taste was even better. Lisa told him through the translator that it was the best hamburger she’d ever had, and he lit up with pride, bowing and laughing. We took a photo together before leaving, exchanging the usual long series of bows and heartfelt thank-yous.
Later that evening, we heard faint music coming from the direction of the train station, so we followed the sound through the quiet streets. There, we discovered a small festival wrapping up. On the stage stood a man in a tuxedo playing the cornet, surrounded by an adoring group of older women clapping and singing along. For his encore, he performed “You Lift Me Up.” Sitting there together, surrounded by lanterns, festival smells, and the warmth of a Japanese crowd, Lisa and I both got teary-eyed. We joked that maybe the Japanese TV crew was hiding in the bushes saying “we finally succeeded in making them cry.”
As the night cooled, we walked hand in hand back toward the hotel, stopping at a 7-Eleven for ice cream. A simple treat, the perfect end to an extraordinary day.
Tomorrow, we ride our last day along the Pacific coast toward 日立中 (Hitachinaka – Hitachinaka).
「りんごはおいしい!」(Ringo wa oishii! – The apple is delicious!)Les mer
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- Dag 48
- søndag 19. oktober 2025
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Høyde: 92 ft
JapanHitachinaka36°23’13” N 140°32’10” E
🎌🎉We made it!🎉🎌
19. oktober, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Just a quick update to say that we made it back to our start point safely. Working on day 47, stay tuned.

You two are surely a great team!! Come home safely. It has been a tremendous pleasure to follow your journey! [Wetherill]

Tomorrow I will be praying for a safe trip back to the state where you were born Iowa. [Mom Cochran]
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- Dag 48
- søndag 19. oktober 2025
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Høyde: 89 ft
JapanHitachinaka36°23’14” N 140°32’9” E
🇯🇵🏁🎉Day 47🎉🏁🇯🇵
19. oktober, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
46 miles / 2,450 ft. / 4:08
——————————
Total Miles: 1,628
(2,620 km)
Vertical Miles: 25.4
(40.9 km)
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Today we woke at 6:30 a.m., full of the bittersweet excitement of our last day of this tour. I peeked out the window: the forecast promised no rain, and though the sky looked cloudy, the air felt calm, so I believed we were safe from showers.
After some typical morning organizing and a pre-breakfast coffee from Lisa, we headed down to breakfast around 7:00. The buffet was a mix of Japanese and American-style favorites: small pastries, omelette bites, little smokies, salad, and potato salad. There was also onion soup, but we decided that might not be the best choice before a long ride.
A bit more coffee and orange juice, a second round of chocolate croissants, and then it was back to the room to pack panniers, stuff the sleeping bag into its dry sack, double-check the room, and carry everything down to the bikes.
We took our time this morning. We had only about 45 miles (72 km) to ride before reaching the English House in Hitachinaka between 3:00 and 4:00 p.m., but we knew from past tours we’d likely savor every last moment.
Our route hugged the ocean for much of the way so we could enjoy the sound of waves and the salty air. The skies were grayer than hoped, but a gentle tailwind was firmly at our backs, making pedaling easier.
Our first major stop was 高戸小浜海岸 (Takado Kohama Kaigan – Takado Kohama Beach) in 高萩市 (Takahagi-shi – Takahagi City). This scenic little bay, framed by steep sea cliffs and twin inlets, has been selected as one of Japan’s “100 Best Seaside Spots” thanks to its white sand, green pines, and the dramatic contrast of land, sea, and sky.
We wandered across rocks and explored small caves and tide pools where tiny crabs hid among the boulders. Though I couldn’t verify whether those caves were once ancient dwellings, the area feels timeless. Geological records say the sand here was formed as granite from the 阿武隈山地 (Abukuma Sanchi – Abukuma Mountains) was carried down to the sea and sculpted by Pacific waves.
Sunday meant a few more people than usual, but still far fewer than expected — perfect for our reflective mood.
After Takado, we rode further toward Hitachinaka and passed a small tourist area decorated with statues and pictures of a bird that looked like a penguin… or maybe a crane? We guessed it commemorated a migratory bird but couldn’t quite identify the species.
A bit later, we climbed to a viewpoint above the city near 日立大沼町 (Hitachi Ōnuma-chō), our “last highest point” of the trip. From up there we could see rooftops in every shade of color, the Pacific stretching beyond, and the winding road we’d just taken to reach it. A bit of height, a bit of wind, and a lot of gratitude.
Lunch was magical — a small shrine out on a peninsula near the ocean in 日立相賀町 (Hitachi Aikachō). We sat together in the cool, stiff breeze with no cars, no people, just the sea, a giant ship on the horizon, and the two of us savoring our last rice ball on the road.
By the end of lunch my cycling computer’s ETA had crept from 3:00 toward 4:00, so I messaged Annie to say we’d aim for 4:20 p.m. We continued through rolling hills near the ocean, sometimes right along the coast, sometimes inland, passing farmers harvesting sweet potatoes. We reminisced about how lucky we’d been to witness so many harvests: apples, pears, persimmons, cabbage, chestnuts, daikon, onions, and — of course — grapes in 山梨 (Yamanashi). What a privilege it’s been to see Japan’s seasons unfold from the saddle, and of course, the changing colors of the Japanese maple trees.
About two miles (3.2 km) from the English House we stopped in a little park for a final rest and a sweet treat. Just before that, we had visited 村松山虚空蔵堂 (Muramatsu-san Kokuzō-dō) Temple in 東海村 (Tōkai-mura). Built in 807 by the monk 弘法大師 (Kōbō Daishi – Kūkai), this temple was long protected by the 佐竹氏 (Satake clan) and the 徳川家 (Tokugawa family). The main deity, 虚空蔵菩薩 (Kokuzō Bosatsu – Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Memory), felt especially fitting for our “memory-making” ride.
Then, as we rolled toward the parking lot entrance of the English House at 4:19 p.m., there they were — our friends Justin and Ethan — cheering, pumping their fists, and signs that read “Congratulations, you did it!” in Japanese. Mike, Yosie, and Annie were also present to greet us with hugs and cheers. Justin held a little gold ball above our head and we were instructed to pull the string and a banner burst out with confetti.
The banner read Omedetto おめでと(congratulation!), and we stood under the celebratory globe, laughing and posing for pictures. We celebrated in the in the parking lot for over an hour telling stories, laughing, hugging, and even shedding a few tears. The mix of exhilaration (“We finished!”) and melancholy (“This is it…”) washed over both of us. It was the best welcome home celebration!
A little later we were shown to our mini-apartment. Surprise number two: a basket of goodies — a bottle of red wine with a bicycle on the label (perfect), homemade quiche with grapes and salad, butternut squash cake, and local dried sweet potato, a regional favorite. Another wonderful feast put together by Yosie! We ate quietly, full from both food and kindness. Lisa dashed across the street to the laundromat, completing our post-ride ritual.
Collapsed on our beds, we reflected: another tour complete. Tomorrow, our focus shifts to preparing a presentation for about 50 students and parents at the English House. But for now, rest! ❤️Les mer

Ulrich WolffWhat a journey! It was interesting and inspiring following along. Have a safe trip home!

ReisendeEnjoyed sharing your amazing journey. Congratulations on a safe conclusion!

Congratulations on completing a wonderful experience! Greatly enjoyed your daily blogs. [Al Hood]
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- Dag 49
- mandag 20. oktober 2025
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Høyde: 89 ft
JapanHitachinaka36°23’14” N 140°32’10” E
🎌Manholes #2 🎌
20. oktober, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
25 more!
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- Dag 50
- tirsdag 21. oktober 2025
- ☁️ 17 °C
- Høyde: 92 ft
JapanHitachinaka36°23’13” N 140°32’10” E
Manholes #3
21. oktober, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
My obsession of taking photos of manhole covers, continued throughout the trip.
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- Dag 51
- onsdag 22. oktober 2025
- ☁️ 15 °C
- Høyde: 85 ft
JapanHitachinaka36°23’12” N 140°32’10” E
🇯🇵💕Days 48 - 50 💕🇯🇵
22. oktober, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Days 48–50: ひたちなか (Hitachinaka – City by the Sea)
After nearly seven weeks of riding and exploring Honshu, we finally settled into a slower rhythm for a few days in ひたちなか (Hitachinaka). These were our rest and reflect days — a chance to recharge, reconnect with friends, and prepare for our upcoming presentation at The English House.
We had intentionally planned this break to spend time with Annie and Justin, their longtime employee and friend Ethan, and our dear friends Mike and Yoshie — who had been such kind supporters to me twenty-five years ago when I lived in Japan. It felt comforting to be back here, surrounded by familiar faces, sharing new stories and memories that spanned decades.
Most of our daylight hours were spent working on the presentation, a 45-minute interactive talk for the students, parents, and community members from The English House. Because their classroom space couldn’t fit everyone, they rented a hall at the local Chamber of Commerce — and by the time we started on Wednesday night, about fifty people had gathered. We gave the presentation in English, but communication went far beyond language. The audience was warm, curious, and full of great questions. Afterward, people stayed for almost another hour to look over our bikes and gear, point at our map of Japan, and talk about cycling and travel. Annie, Justin, and Ethan had even made a beautiful bulletin board display of our adventure, complete with photos and captions. Seeing it all laid out like that brought back so many memories — and reminded us how much kindness we’ve been shown along the way.
On Tuesday, the whole crew — Mike, Yoshie, Annie, Justin, Ethan, Lisa, and I — went out together for a special lunch at a lovely local restaurant. It was a traditional Japanese dining experience, elegant and beautifully arranged, featuring something called 新米 (shinmai – new rice). Shinmai is the freshly harvested rice from the current season, prized throughout Japan for its softness, delicate sweetness, and slightly sticky texture. In Japanese culture, tasting shinmai marks the celebration of harvest and abundance, and sharing it together often carries a feeling of gratitude and renewal. The meal was artfully presented, with small dishes arranged like a painting — fresh baked fish, simmered vegetables, miso soup, and the star of the meal: that perfect, steaming bowl of new rice.
After lunch, we walked together to train station where Yoshie treated us to some wonderful baked goods from a local bakery. Among them were what locals called “victory buns” — soft rolls filled with smooth, sweet black bean paste and a touch of cream. They were delicious, and somehow fitting — a small, celebratory taste of success after our long journey.
Of course, these days weren’t just about work and food, though there was plenty of both.
On Wednesday after the presentation, we wandered late down the street to find a 7-Eleven for an evening meal and we passed small Nepalese–Indian restaurant Justin had introduced us to over seven weeks ago. We couldn’t resist returning to get some takeout. The cheese naan was still heavenly — soft, buttery, and almost dessert-like, and the butter chicken curry in our opinion was award-winning! I joked to Lisa that if we weren’t leaving soon, I was sure we would become regular customers.
Another small mission of mine was to finally revisit the golden arches. Yes, I was interested in sampling a Big Mac (for research purposes, of course.) It had been over a decade since I’d had one back in the States, and I was curious how the Japanese version compared. To my surprise, the Big Mac value meal was about only five dollars, and the whole experience felt… elevated. They even brought our meals to the table, bowed deeply, and thanked us for dining there. When we finished, the manager himself came out to thank us again. Love the amazing thing is the Big Mac actually looks like it does in the menu picture. I told Lisa, laughing, “You definitely don’t get that at home!”
By the final evening, after days of work and food adventures, we invited Ethan over for a beer and taught him how to play the card game golf. It was a simple night but one of those moments that make a trip feel full circle — sharing stories, laughter, and friendship.
Between all this, we found time to organize our gear, pack the bikes, and pick up a few souvenirs — small reminders of a trip that had become so much more than miles and mountains.
That night, we stayed up late, talking and laughing, a mix of anticipation and melancholy in the air. We knew the long journey home would begin at sunrise. Justin was set to pick us up at 7:30 a.m. in the minivan to take us to 成田空港 (Narita kūkō – Narita Airport).
As we taped the boxes shut for the journey home, we couldn’t help but feel that familiar blend of sadness and gratitude that comes when something beautiful is about to end. Our hearts were full — full of friendship, culture, kindness, and countless small moments that made Japan feel like home once again.Les mer
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- Dag 56
- mandag 27. oktober 2025 06:25
- 🌙 5 °C
- Høyde: 725 ft
Forente staterIowa City41°39’13” N 91°29’5” W
🎌🛝 Playgrounds 🛝🎌
27. oktober, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 5 °C
It was fun discovering the playgrounds around Japan. The roller slides are AMAZING!
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- tirsdag 28. oktober 2025
- 🌧 12 °C
- Høyde: 725 ft
Forente staterIowa City41°39’13” N 91°29’6” W
🎌🗾Final Post🗾🎌
28. oktober, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
Part 1: Trip Home
We loaded the minivan with Justin at the English House in ひたちなか市 (Hitachinaka shi – Hitachinaka City) at 7:45 a.m. on Thursday, hearts full of gratitude and a bit of sadness that we were leaving Japan behind. Twenty four hours and a world of miles later we were in Houlton, Wisconsin, pulling into Adam and Danielle’s driveway like two sleepy homing pigeons. Pizza appeared as if by magic, and we surrendered to it gratefully with stories shared about travel with Adam, Danielle, and Tyler. One night of deep sleep, then a five hour drive through early morning fog and a blaze of autumn leaves across Wisconsin, Minnesota, and northern Iowa brought us safely home to Iowa City by about 1 p.m. on Friday. After all that distance and all those vehicles, it felt almost impossible that the same two bikes that carried us through Japan were quietly hanging in our garage, intact and ready to be reassembled for the next journey.
Airports are usually just waypoints, but Denver gave us a welcome home surprise. We literally ran into our friends Kelly and Tammy Ruddick. I had been thinking of sending Kelly a quick photo since they live in Boulder, and then Lisa heard her name called. There they were, big smiles, a random reunion that felt like a small blessing. In 1993 I crossed the United States by bicycle with Kelly from Spokane, Washington to Niagara Falls. Seeing him again in that in-between place tied the past and present into one neat knot.
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Part 2: Readjustment and Reflection
We always reach for something profound at the end of these journeys and then sometimes we skip the wrap up altogether because we can never find the right words. Jetlag fogs the thoughts, but even without jet lag it is hard to explain the reentry. We love our friends, our neighbors, our own bed, and the simple joy of a kitchen that knows our hands – it feels good to come home. And yet, how do we describe the trip in a way that truly conveys how our hearts and minds have been touched? How do we bring home the everyday grace we experienced in Japan while honoring and enriching our culture in Iowa and the U.S. through that perspective?
In convenience stores across Japan, we heard いらっしゃいませ (irasshaimase – welcome) and ありがとうございます (arigatō gozaimasu – thank you very much) sung like small prayers. At airports, we watched staff step beyond their duties to guide a lost traveler with a quiet どうぞ (dōzo – please). Back in the United States, the contrast in pace and volume is noticeable. It’s not any one thing—just the collective hum of a culture that moves differently. Neither is right or wrong—it’s simply a reminder of the different rhythms that shape daily life.
On the road, the difference was especially clear. After nearly 1,700 miles space was given, gentle words of encouragement were offered out of car windows and from the roadside. In Japan people seemed to accept us wherever the road, path, or sidewalk led us. Cyclists will understand how astonishing that is. We will miss dearly hearing the calls of encouragement – がんばって (ganbatte – do your best, good luck) and 気をつけて (kiotsukete – be careful) – called out as we climbed or turned a corner. It made us smile every time.
We often think of rice as a metaphor for the way societies move. Japanese rice is short-grain and sticky, grains clinging close, forming something whole. American rice is long-grain and airy, each piece separate, proud in its independence. It’s an image that stays with us — the feeling of how people of a nation embrace or release one another. In Japan, the grains seemed to hold together, bound by invisible threads. In America, they fall apart more easily — in their own freedom, but less attuned to the shared pulse of a compassionate society.
We do not pretend to fully understand Japan after fifty days. We know we barely scratched the surface. We saw temples where Shinto and Buddhism share space. We heard temple bells. We smelled incense. We ate noodles, raw seafood, and soft serve dusted with gold. We visited cities, stayed in small mountain villages, and rode along the coastlines on both the east and the west. We laughed with kids who wanted to practice English and us our Japanese, visited old friends, and chatted with elders who wanted to share their best advice on our route, places to visit, or the best local foods. We learned to say すみません (sumimasen – excuse me or I am sorry or thank you depending on the context) and いただきます (itadakimasu – I humbly receive, said before eating). Those words carry weight. They pull you toward humility and gratitude.
Back home we rejoin our card group, and it is wonderful to be in that circle again. We took a 30-mile sunset ride with Pat, and the gravel roads and freshly harvested fields helped us feel the comforts of home. It brought back memories of 1991, when Pat and I rode 3,500 miles from Seattle to Washington, D.C. in 50 days—another journey that tied the past to the present. Still, our minds keep drifting back to ridgelines and cedar forests, to the way mist sat in the valleys at dawn, to the soft calls of おはようございます (ohayō gozaimasu – good morning) and がんばって (ganbatte – good luck) from Japanese locals as we rode by in the morning.
Also, Lisa is back teaching her yoga classes at Oaknoll Retirement Community, a group of dedicated friends who followed our journey each day. She is happy to be back on the mat with them, sharing what she has learned in Japan — the calm breath, the quiet focus, and the simple reminder that kindness travels far. Together they stretch, laugh, and continue the spirit of goodness and compassion that carried us across Japan.
Lisa and I talk about the feeling of being a little unsettled. Would we be better off living in Japan, or somewhere else in the world? Or is this just the fog of reentry, the ache that comes when the heart grows new rooms and is not sure which one to sleep in.
We try to hold space for every kind of person. It can be hard to watch the shouting matches and the certainty that the other side is beyond reason. In Japan, even when opinions differed, we felt a steady attention to community. We still hold on to hope that the U.S. can be many grains that still cook together.
Our head keep stitching threads between Stoicism, Buddhism, and the Enlightenment. Stoicism gives us the practice to focus on what is within our control. Buddhism, especially the gentle wisdom of Thích Nhất Hạnh, invites us to be fully in the present moment — to breathe, to notice what is right in front of us, and to let awareness soften the noise of wanting and worry. The Enlightenment reminds us of reason, curiosity, and the dignity of each person. In the end, it all points to the same simple truth: speak less, notice more, and practice Seva (selfless service done with compassion and without expectation).
There is humor in all this too. We learned that convenience store rice balls and local curry udon (noodles) can make you tear up with their deliciousness. We learned that two 外国人 (gaikokujin – foreigner) fumbling through an ice cream kiosk can turn confusion into connection with nothing more than a smile and a bow. We learned that pizza in Wisconsin after a long flight tastes exactly like gratitude. We learned that ringing your bicycle bell and playing loud music on your iPhone seems to keep the 熊 (kuma – bear) away. And we learned that friendships in Japan can stretch across twenty-five years and still fold back together as if no time had passed—proof that the heart keeps its own calendar. Even in airports, the universe can hand you a surprise reunion.
As for what comes next, we do not know yet. Maybe we settle back into our small Iowa City bubble for a while. Maybe we chase another long line on the map. Whatever we do we will do it together and enjoy every moment. That has always been our quiet promise under everything.
Thank you to everyone who followed along, who sent messages and gentle words of encouragement. Thank you to our hosts and helpers in Japan who became friends. Thank you to the drivers who gave us space and the shopkeepers and guesthouses who warmed us with their greetings and kindness. Thank you also to the Japanese TV crew — in our short time together, we learned so much about the kindness and harmony of working within the Japanese work culture, and the quiet determination to create something meaningful and compassionate together. An especially heartfelt thank-you to Yuki, Kakeru, and Annie, whose guidance, generosity, laughter, and enthusiasm made this journey possible.
We are home. We are a little lost. We are very grateful. And we are trying to bring back what we learned. Bow a little more. Thank workers. Let people merge. Have a little more patience. Say excuse me with feeling. Remember that in the end we are all grains in the same bowl.
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A few simple Japanese phrases we are keeping in our pockets:
1. ありがとうございます (arigatō gozaimasu – thank you very much)
2. すみません (sumimasen – excuse me or I am sorry or thank you)
3. いただきます (itadakimasu – I humbly receive, before eating)
4. ごちそうさまでした (gochisōsama deshita – thank you for the meal, after eating)
5. よろしくお願いします (yoroshiku onegai shimasu – please treat me kindly, nice to meet you)
6. おかげさまで (okage sama de – thanks to you, I am well)
7. がんばって (ganbatte – do your best, good luck)
8. 気をつけて (kiotsukete – be careful)
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Small suggestions we are going to try at home:
1. Greet workers and say thank you out loud every time
2. Leave places cleaner than we found them
3. Wave at drivers who show patience
4. Share food more often and say いただきます before the first bite.
5. Practice Seva more.
❤️心からありがとう (kokoro kara arigatō – thank you from the heart).❤️Les mer










































































































































































































































































ReisendeSounds like a tough yet rewarding adventure