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  • North to Alaska By RV 2021

    Early Dinner @ the Powder House

    July 15, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Since Mui had agreed to an early lunch that consisted of soup, I agreed to an early dinner.

    Our new-friend Cobilynn, from yesterday’s jetboat tour, and Lucas, the tour operator, both recommended we try the Powder House, which overlooks Eyak Lake. So that’s where we headed.

    This is a very casual eatery … bar and grill. It is founded on the original site of the Copper River Railroad’s dynamite powder storage house.

    We both wanted salmon … after all we’re in Copper River Country. But, as has been the case everywhere so far, none was to be had. So, we both ordered the delicious halibut tacos, garnished with red cabbage instead of lettuce. I once again got the Alaskan White beer … which has become a favorite of mine because it is very light and not in the least malty.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Welcome to the Cordova Center — Cordova, AK.
    Historic photo of the completion of the railway between Kennecott and Cordova.1Historic photo showing a woman inflating walrus intestine for a waterproof garment.1Orcas in the inlet — Cordova Center, AK.260,000 salmon ... Carlisle Packing Company — Cordova, AK.Exhibit on the Kennecott-Cordova connection — Cordova, AK.1B. Hallinen's photo is representative of the Exxon Valdez oil spill — Cordova Center, AK."Cordova Neighborhood" (Artist: J. Joslin) — Cordova Center, AK."Copper River Spring Breakup" (Artist: D. Rosenthal) — Cordova Center, AK.Mural painted on glass in the lower lobby of the Cordova Center, AK.

    Cordova Center

    July 15, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We were hoping to visit the Ilanka Cultural Center on Cordova’s waterfront, but it was closed to the public … perhaps because of the COVID-19 outbreak that was the hot news item today.

    Instead, we went to the Cordova Center, a multi-use facility that amongst other things, houses the Cordova Historical Museum. In light of the COVID-19 outbreak, we were especially pleased to have the place mostly to ourselves … and we wore our masks though it wasn’t required for those who are vaccinated.

    We enjoyed not only the exhibits, which included interesting historic exhibits, but also the art gallery that is attached to the museum.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Portrait of a bald eagle — Cordova, AK.
    Bald eagle — Cordova, AK.Bald eagle — Cordova, AK.Bald eagle in action — Cordova, AK.Glaucous-winged gulls — Cordova, AK.Glaucous-winged gull (juvenile) — Cordova, AK.Glaucous-winged gulls at the fish cleaning station — Cordova, AK.

    Gulls & A Bald Eagle

    July 15, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    On the way back from the Orca Lodge, we stopped at the fish cleaning station on Cannery Road to enjoy views of the inlet.

    There were plenty of glaucous-winged gulls nearby … waiting for a fisherman or two to show up and give them some fish scraps.

    Imagine our surprise when we stepped closer to the shore and found ourselves staring at a bald eagle. Not sure if the damage to his right eye causes him any problems fishing, but he sure was watching the water carefully … and he was very patient with us trying to take photos and videos of him. (Of course, it could have been a her, too.)    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    1This old pier, reflected on Orca Inlet, feels like it's floating in the air — Orca Lodge ... Cordova
    Waterfall and reflection ... with the pilings of the old pier — Orca Lodge ... Cordova, AK.The Whale's Tale is a coffee shop at the restored cannery — Orca Lodge ... Cordova, AK.2Mui's not much for soup — Whale's Tale @ the Orca Lodge ... Cordova, AK.Orca Inlet is pond-calm — Orca Lodge ... Cordova, AK.1"Stranded" — Orca Lodge ... Cordova, AK.Fishing vessels on Orca Inlet — Cordova, AK.

    Lunch @ the Whale’s Tale @ Orca

    July 15, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    At the end of Cannery Road is the Orca Adventure Lodge, which is located on a property that once housed a whaling station and cannery. But that’s not why we drove the road. Our destination was a coffee shop on the property … the Whale’s Tale.

    I’d read that this was a good place for a light lunch … soup only on the menu … today it was tomato bisque served with grilled cheese croutons. As well, we wanted to see the waterfall that we were told was visible by going out onto the pier.

    Neither the food nor the view disappointed.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Hartney Bay — Cordova, AK.
    Hartney Bay — Cordova, AK.1Brilliant fireweed on the road to Hartney Bay — Cordova, AK.Hartney Bay — Cordova, AK.Hartney Bay — Cordova, AK.Glaucous-winged gull @ Hartney Bay — Cordova, AK.Stranded boat at low tide @ Hartney Bay — Cordova, AK.Hartney Bay — Cordova, AK.Golden bright flowers add cheer to an overcast day Hartney Bay — Cordova, AK.

    Hartney Bay

    July 15, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    After a filling breakfast at the hotel, we set off to explore Cordova and its environs. We got off to a late start unfortunately, as we wanted to iron out the car rental issues first.

    On the recommendation of our server at the restaurant, we drove out to Hartney Bay.

    The mudflats of the Copper River Delta at this bay are a popular stopover for shorebirds heading to Alaska from South America. If there were any shorebirds, they were too far out for us to see, but there were a lot of glaucous-winged gulls for us to enjoy watching.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Yummy food to wrap up a great day of sightseeing — Reluctant Fisherman Inn ... Cordova, AK.

    Day 73 Ends w/Dinner @ RFI

    July 14, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Tired after our early wake up and long day on the Copper River, we opted to dine in house at the Reluctant Fisherman. Very tasty food … good service.

    Tomorrow we’re going to explore around time … no need for an early call to get going.

    ———————————————

    For those interested in such things, I ordered Alaskan White, one of my favorite beers in Alaska. Mui had the halibut fish & chips (yes, once again); I opted for the seafood Alfredo for a change of pace.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    1An ice cave on the shores of Miles Lake — Miles Glacier, AK.
    Carefully approaching the ice cave ... but not going inside — Miles Lake, AK.Amazing color of the compacted ice inside the cave — Miles Lake, AK.1A video is the only way to capture this huge glacier — Miles Glacier across Miles Lake, AK.A close-up look at the terminus of Miles Glacier, AK.2Ice Sculpture — Miles Lake, AK.River of Ice across Miles Lake, AK.1Blue Iceberg calved off Miles Glacier — AK.Blue Iceberg calved off Miles Glacier ... from a different angle — AK.1Accordion base of a well-worn iceberg — Miles Lake, AK.Ice alternating with moraine — Miles Lake, AK.

    Miles Glacier

    July 14, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    After our walk across the Million Dollar Bridge, we were supposed to get a presentation by a Forest Service Ranger about the sonar system used to count salmon in the Copper River. Alas, something must have come up and he was a no show.

    So we continued on to the next part of our tour … Miles Glacier. Hopping in the jetboat, we motored over to Miles Lake. First we stopped at an ice cave. It’s never smart to enter an ice cave … especially one that is showing evidence of melting. It was interesting to see the deep blue in the depths of the cave.

    We never got close to Miles Glacier … it was impressive nonetheless. What was even more impressive were the icebergs calved off of it … huge pieces that were jaw-dropping in their size. I just wish we had something that would have provided perspective for what our eyes beheld.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Good look at the jacks used to raise the damaged 4th span back into place — Million Dollar Bridge.
    Looking across the Million Dollar Bridge — Alaska.One of the plaques showing the date the bridge was built ... 1910 — Million Dollar Bridge, AK.Childs Glacier from the Million Dollar Bridge, AK.The two icebreakers that are supposed to protect the two piers of the Million Dollar Bridge, AK.Grey/black sections are the repaired sections on the repaired fourth span — Million Dollar Bridge.Historic photo showing passengers on a train excursion @ the Million Dollar Bridge.Historic photos of the other end of the railway in Kennecott, AK.View of the Million Dollar Bridge with the 4th span at the far side of the Copper River.Childs Glacier and the Million Dollar Bridge as we make our way to our next stop.Crossing under the Million Dollar Bridge.

    Million Dollar Bridge

    July 14, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    After leaving Childs Glacier, Lucas drove us across the Miles Glacier Bridge — aka the Million Dollar Bridge — and we walked back across it. Along the way, Lucas told us a bit about the history of the bridge. He pointed out how an iceberg in 2016 sent the icebreaker protecting the first pier of the bridge off kilter, leaving it unprotected. He also showed us the repaired sections of the bridge that have yet to be painted.

    I found the bridge and its history quite fascinating. Here’s a bit more about it.

    Back in the early 1900s, after copper was found in Kennecott, the owners of the mine needed a means for transporting the ore 196 miles to Cordova to load on ships bound for smelting facilities in Tacoma, Washington. To that end, they built rail access between the mill town and the port town. The Million Dollar Bridge, was a part of the rail system and served to carry trains over the Copper River.

    In 1958, 20 years after the mine in Kennecott shut down, work began to convert the train bridge to a road bridge. The idea was to connect Cordova by road to the rest of Alaska. Alas, the Good Friday Earthquake of 1964 put paid to those plans when the fourth span of the bridge slipped off its foundation.

    In 2004, the damaged span was jacked up and repaired. The bridge continues to be maintained as its collapse into the Copper River would not only mean there would be no chance of Cordova ever getting a road link, but it also would cause an environmental disaster since the original paint on the bridge has a heavy lead content.

    Alas, access to the bridge is currently by jetboat only because of a washed out bridge around mile 36 of the Copper River Highway and damage to the road around mile 45.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Boating across the terminus — Childs Glacier, AK.
    Peaceful ... serene — Childs Glacier, AK.Panorama of the terminus — Childs Glacier, AK.A "we visited Childs Glacier" selfie — Alaska.Pinnacles of ice — Childs Glacier, AK.1Calved ice on the beach — Childs Glacier, AK.Miles & Mui — Childs Glacier, AK.View of the glacier from the viewing platform — Childs Glacier, AK.Historic photo from 1911 — Childs Glacier, AK.

    Childs Glacier

    July 14, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Mui and I have visited many-a glacier … all over the world … from the north to the south. We’ve cruised by these amazing rivers of ice. We’ve flown over them. We’ve hiked on them. We’ve sat with them. We’ve listened to them pop and crackle. We’ve watched them calve huge amounts of ice with thunderous booms.

    Something about Childs Glacier, however, made today’s experience very special. Something that I have yet to put my finger on. Not that the reason really matters. It’s the experience itself that counts. It’s what I will remember.

    First we cruised by the glacier in the jetboat. Then, we tied up ashore and hopped in Lucas’s van to go to the day-use and campground facilities built and overseen by the National Forest Service. Here, Lucas built a fire that Mui tended as we ate our self-catered picnic and sat enjoying the peaceful serenity that comes with being at one with nature.

    I don’t know where the campers who had set up their tents under the picnic shelter were, but I am glad that we had the entire area to ourselves … except for the Forest Service personnel working on cleaning up the winter storm debris. Our only problem? The mosquitoes that were swarming! Not expecting the pesky bugs, we’d left our bug jackets and repellent in the hotel. Thank goodness Lucas ventures nowhere without his Deet.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Panorama of the Copper River from where we boarded the jetboat — Alaska.
    This washed out bridge prevents vehicles from goin further down the Copper River Highway — Alaska.And we are off for a ride up the Copper River — Alaska.Miles, Lucas' black Russian Terrier, makes friends with Mui — Alaska.Bald eagles frequently fish the Copper River — Alaska.Harbor Seals with a distant glacier as a background — Copper River, AK.The Copper River Highway, where it is washed out near the end of the road — Alaska.Miles standing up to the wind generated as the jetboat travels the Copper River — Alaska.Million Dollar Bridge & Childs Glacier where we tie up for the drive to the glacier overlook — AK.Glimpse of Childs Glacier from where we tie up on the Copper River — Alaska.

    Jetboating on the Copper River

    July 14, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    The Copper River — known as the Ahtna River by the people of the same name — is some 290 miles long and drains into the Gulf of Alaska near Cordova. This fast-moving river is the 10th largest in the US … based on the amount of water discharged at its mouth.

    The water was lower than usual today, likely because the glaciers here haven’t been seeing much sun recently, thus melting at a slower rate. That did not mean that it was flowing any less faster. One needs a powerful boat to be able to negotiate the strong currents. Lucas’ jetboat was able to do just that.

    Stopping for photo ops was not really possible … nor was slowing down as the danger of drifting was very real. Hence, just a few photos to share from the ride.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Can't resist reflections with lupines — Copper River Highway, AK.
    Glimpse of Sheridan Glacier — Copper River Highway, AK.Decorative window frame ... an unexpected touch — Copper River Highway, AK.The amazing color of silt-laden waters — Copper River Highway, AK.

    Out the Road

    July 14, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Our instructions for meeting Lucas Borer, our guide for today’s tour, were simple.

    “Meet me at mile marker 36 ‘out the road’. Bring your own food and beverages. I will provide the firewood.”

    Out the road … this is how the locals refer to the Copper River Highway, the only road here other than the streets in town. You see, there is no road linkage to Cordova from anywhere in Alaska. If you want to get here, you have to do so by boat or by plane. Hence, yesterday’s ferry ride.

    Designated a scenic byway, the highway is 48.6 miles long. But the road past mile 36 is indefinitely closed due to several wash-outs, including a bridge just past our meet-up point (in 2011) and the road itself at mile 45 (in 2018).

    The highway was built in 1945 on the abandoned railbed of the Copper River & Northwestern Railway … which used to link Cordova with Kennecott back in the days when the copper mines were still operational. In June, we saw the other end of the linkage between the mill town and the port town. Today we drove this end of the linkage. The section in between was to have connected to Chitina, but … well, let’s just say that the Good Friday Earthquake of 1964 brought those plans to a screeching halt. More on the why in a later post.

    Unsure of the road conditions, we didn’t make too many stops along the highway this morning … we didn’t want to be late to our meeting … a decision I would come to regret since we had rain on the way back and the views were hidden. But we had to get at least some shuteye after our past-midnight bedtime last night, so an earlier departure wasn’t feasible. It is what it is.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Dusk (by Alaska standards) view of the harbor from Room 206 @ the Reluctant Fisherman Inn — Cordova.
    Our no frills, but comfy room with a view — Reluctant Fisherman Inn ... Cordova, AK.

    Day 72 Ends @ the Reluctant Fisherman

    July 13, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We’ve made it.

    The Whittier to Cordova cruise aboard the Alaska Marine Highway ferry — the M/V Aurora — is complete.

    Though there was a bit of confusion around our rental vehicle (long story that I don’t want to get into at the end of a very long day), we have wheels to get us around the area.

    We’re settled into our harbor view room at the Reluctant Fisherman Inn, a short five minute drive from the ferry terminal. I’m so glad we changed our minds about renting a cabin from AirBnB and are in a hotel in town instead. We’re dead tired and a drive “out the road” would not have been fun.

    Time to put a period at the end of this day and get some rest. We have an early call tomorrow.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.
    Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova. Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to CShip's wake (iPhone long exposure) — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.Orca Bay — Aboard M/V Aurora ... en route to Cordova.On approach to the ferry terminal in Cordova — Aboard M/V Aurora.

    On the Other Side of Prince Wm Sound

    July 13, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    The sailing through Prince William Sound was calm and pleasant. As the evening progressed and the sun went back into hiding, it got considerably cooler, so I stayed in the forward lounge until we left the sound behind and entered Orca Bay.

    The M/V Aurora slowly threaded a route around the islands, being careful to stay in the to-us-invisible boat lane. With a big tidal range, these waters require careful navigation. With the forward deck on the bow closed for boat operations, I had no views of what was ahead as we approached Cordova, but the play of light and shadows behind the vessel was enough to keep my shutter finger busy.

    Passing by Orca Lodge after making the turn into the Orca Inlet, the vessel made what was essentially a u-ey around an anchored fishing boat and tied up at its berth at the ferry terminal just outside of the town-proper.

    Time to get off the vessel, pick up our car, and head to our hotel.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Billings Glacier — Passage Canal ... aboard the M/V Aurora.
    Waterfalls streaming down from the mountains — Passage Canl ... aboard the M/V Aurora.Mountainscape — Passage Canal ... aboard the M/V Aurora.1More waterfalls streaming down the mountains — Passage Canal ... aboard the M/V Aurora.Blackstone Glacier (I believe) — Passage Canal ... en route to Prince William Sound.Mui enjoying the views from the forward lounge — Aboard the M/V Aurora.

    Pond-Calm Prince William Sound

    July 13, 2021, Gulf of Alaska ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    It’s now 7:00p. We have four more hours to go before we reach Cordova. Like the narrow passages we sailed earlier, the Prince William Sound thus far is pond-calm. Though there are high clouds overhead, the light is bright and the aft decks are awash in sunshine. We’re delighted that the weather is cooperating for this late-in-the-day crossing from Whittier to Cordova.

    As M/V Aurora slowly made its was through Passage Canal and Wells Passage, I stood on the forward deck at the bow of the vessel and enjoyed the views. I was surprised that so few ventured out … and most of those who did went indoors after a photo or two. No complaints, I enjoyed having the space to myself.

    Since we’re in open waters now, I’ve joined Mui for “dinner.” We brought some light snacks for “dining with a view” from our seats in the forward lounge. While we do that, enjoy some of the sights our eyes beheld earlier.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Welcome aboard the M/V Aurora — Whittier, AK.
    Mural in the lobby of the Upper Deck — M/V Aurora.Forward Lounge on the Upper Deck — M/V Aurora.Mui's already enjoying the views from his seat in the forward lounge — M/V Aurora.The café is aft on the Upper Deck — M/V Aurora.Looking back towards the small boat harbor from aboard the M/V Aurora — Whittier, AK.Looking aft from the bow ... forward lounge with big windows ... bridge above — M/V Aurora.A "we're above the Alaska Marine Highway vessel M/V Aurora" selfie — Whittier, AK.Looking aft along the side passage — M/V Aurora.The flag fluttering in the breeze now that we are underway — M/V Aurora.

    Around the M/V Aurora

    July 13, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    The M/V Aurora is one of the vessels in the Alaska Marine Highway System. At 235 feet long and 57 feet wide, it is one of the smaller boats. Thus, it is used to service smaller communities.

    Embarking the vessel at 3:00p, we took the elevator from the Car Deck to the Upper Deck and found a grouping of four seats in front of the big windows of the forward observation lounge. Not the most comfortable seats — they don’t recline like some of the others do — but they will be good for expansive views of the seascape as we make our way to Cordova via the Passage Canal, Wells Passage, and through Prince William Sound.

    The boat, named after the Aurora Glacier in Glacier Bay, carries 250 passengers and a number of vehicles. I’d be hard pressed to count 50 passengers on the vessel today. And here in the forward lounge there are no more than 20 people scattered about. Social distancing will definitely not be a problem. You can tell the people who are old hands at ferry travel as they have sleeping bags and blankets … methinks they plan to sleep most of the way on this 7-hour sailing to Cordova.

    Those passengers who aren’t sleeping can take advantage of the observation lounge (where we are), the solarium one deck up (open deck with a covered section and chaise lounges), the café (which has a hot line during specified hours), and the movie lounge (though no movies are being shown on this sailing that I am aware of).

    The forward deck on the bow has been opened up now that we are underway. That’s where I’m heading now … at least until we get into the open waters of Prince William Sound.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021

    Our Boat Has Come In

    July 13, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Actually it’s the Alaska Marine Highway Ferry — the M/V Aurora — that has come in from Valdez. No, we’re not going back to Valdez. Rather, the ferry is going to take us to Cordova for a short getaway while the Cruiser and toad take some rest time in Whittier.Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Welcome to the Swiftwater Café — Whittier, AK.
    Al fresco dining with a view ... still our preference — Whittier, AK.Yummy halibut fish & chips @ Swiftwater Café — Whittier, AK.

    Fish & Chips @ Swiftwater

    July 13, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    I’d read that people come all the way down from Anchorage and pay the tunnel toll just to have the halibut fish & chips at the tiny Swiftwater Café overlooking the small boat harbor in Whittier.

    So, once we got the parking arrangements for the Cruiser and toad taken care of, we headed into town, using the pedestrian pass that goes under the railway to get to the harbor area.

    Finding Swiftwater in this tiny town was easy enough. Since we were there before noon, we didn’t have to fight the crowds that normally fill the place. That there was al fresco dining in the back was perfect for us as we still prefer outdoor dining.

    Yes, the halibut fish & chips were as good as the reviews say they are.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Waiting for the traffic release at Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel — Portage, AK.
    Entrance to the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel — Portage, AK.Glacier in the mist while awaiting the traffic release at the tunnel — Portage, AK.Through the tunnel to arrive in Whittier.

    Thru the Tunnel to Whittier

    July 13, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    We left Seward around 8:00a and some 80+ miles later we made the 10:30a “traffic release” for the Portage side of the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel.

    This toll tunnel is the only way to get to Whittier … short of coming in by water or air. It is shared by trains and vehicles, with timed entries on either side. Before this system was implemented, vehicles were loaded on flatbeds and brought through the tunnel by train. This is a simpler and faster way of making the 2.5-mile journey.

    When we came to Alaska in 2001, we came through the tunnel to go on a glacier cruise in the fjords of Prince William Sound. Today we’re here for … well, that’s for a later footprint.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Exit Glacier is part of Kenai Fjords National Park — Seward, AK.
    A "we returned to Exit Glacier" selfie — Seward, AK.1Exit Glacier from where the toe used to be in 2010 — Seward, AK.Blast from the Past ... us celebrating at the toe of Exit Glacier in 2010 — Seward, AK.Looking down at the outwash plain from the Glacier Overlook Trail — Exit Glacier.Along the meltwater flowing down from Exit Glacier — Seward, AK.

    Exit Glacier

    July 12, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    One of the places we enjoyed visiting in 2010 was Exit Glacier … the only part of the Kenai Fjords National Park that is accessible by car, It is just a short drive from Seward.

    We knew to expect that the glacier has retreated considerably since 2010. In fact, we learned today that the rate of retreat is 11 inches per day. That’s more than 27 feet per month. I’ll let you do the rest of the math.

    What we didn’t expect was the crowds. The parking lot was full and we had to park along the road. The trail itself wasn’t bad, though there were some logjams along the way. But because there were so many people standing around at the overlook, I didn’t get to re-create the photo we took back in 2010. Instead, we had to make do with a quick shot.

    On the way back, we took the Outwash Plain Trail, which detoured down to the edge of the meltwater flowing down from Exit Glacier. The silty water was flowing fast and furious.

    Good thing we didn’t follow my initial plan to hike to the toe via the outwash plain. Not only would we have had too long of a hike with no discernible trail, we never would have made it across the roaring water.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Where Mountains, Ice, and Ocean Meet (Artist: B. Birdsall) — Seward, AK.
    Furry Footprints (Master Artist: D. Bardarson) — Seward, AK.Orca painting at the AK Sealife Center (Artist: V. Rae) — Seward, AK.Sea Lions Chasing Herring (J. Haslet's 6th Grade Class; Kasuun Elem Sch) — Seward Sealife Center, AKOil finger painting of a tufted puffin (Artist: K. Schaefermeyer) — Seward, AK.Honoring Jujiro Wada, Iditarod Trail Pioneer — Seward, AK.

    Day 70 Ends w/Art in Seward

    July 11, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    Although the forecast for every hour of today never shifted from showing high probability of rain, I don’t think a single drop fell today … at least not where we are.

    After our visit to the Alaska Sealife Center, we wandered into town and had a late lunch at the Lone Chicharrón, a taqueria that opened in Seward in 2019. Good tacos … I especially liked the fish tacos and the roasted corn tacos.

    Afterwards, we stopped at Sweet Darlings for some gelato … the best we’ve had in quite some time. Yummy, yummy!

    We took a meandering walk back to the campground, stopping to photograph some of the public art along our route. I’ll end today with some of those images, and a few I took at the Sealife Center.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Portrait of a King Eider — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.
    King Eider performing its ablutions — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Horned Puffin with a pair of Common Murre — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Harlequin Duck — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Tufted Puffin — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Pigeon Guillemot — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Red-Legged Kittiwakes — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Horned Puffin in a nest box — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Rock Greenling — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Sea Pen dine on plankton — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Moon Jelly — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward, AK.Feeding time for an unidentified critter in one of the aquariums — Alaska Sealife Center in Seward,

    Alaska Sealife Center

    July 11, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    The Alaska Sealife Center is one of my favorite places to visit in Seward. The facility is not only an aquarium, but is also involved in marine research and education. As well, it is the only marine mammal rescue and rehab center in the state.

    After settling into our waterfront site at the Resurrection South Campground, we walked into town to visit the center. With the Alaska TourSaver two-for-one coupon, admission for the two of us cost $30+tax. Not a bad deal since the place has so much to offer visitors.

    Just as we did in 2010, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit today. The aquarium exhibits were great, but I was especially delighted with the open air pool where we were able to once again see some of the many seabirds and waterfowl that call Alaska home.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Tucked into our waterfront site ... with our fire ring in the foreground — Resurrection South Cg.
    Our view of Resurrection Bay — Resurrection South Cg in Seward, AK.

    Moved from 458 to 481

    July 11, 2021 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We woke up to an overcast morning with one small patch of blue in the sky. The wind was strong. No rain, though.

    Since the rig in the waterfront site that we were due to move into showed no indication of leaving until the 11:00a check-out time, we went for a wander around Seward, stopping at our favorite café — the Sea Bean — to pick up a lemon-basil croissant to share and an iced coffee for Mui. The place was hopping — as it seems everywhere around Seward is. Although we’re fully-vaccinated, we have taken to wearing our masks again in light of such crowds.

    By the time we came back around 10:45a, the “dance of the rigs” was well underway. It was obvious that we weren’t the only ones moving from the less desirable second or third row to the first row … with unobstructed views of Resurrection Bay. We’ll be in #481 for our remaining two nights in Seward.

    When we came to Seward in 2010 we had only recently purchased our Phaeton, the rig that we replaced with the Cruiser when we decided to settle down in Colorado Springs. At the time, we saw all the rigs parked along the waterfront and said that we would join them someday. Well, 11 years later, here we are.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    One of several murals in the self-proclaimed "mural capital of the world" — Seward, AK.
    Resurrection Bay on a foggy day — Seward, AK.Resurrection Bay on a foggy day — Seward, AK.

    Day 69 Ends with a Stroll Around Seward

    July 10, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    Once we were settled into our site, we donned our rain gear and went off to renew our memories of the time we spent in Seward in 2010. On that occasion, we’d seen the town under sunny conditions. This time, we would be seeing it under overcast and drizzly conditions.

    One thing that was the same as back then … the crowds. I can’t even imagine how much busier it would be if the cruise ships were coming up here this years. Not to mention all the RVers that have postponed their plans due to the border closure. Then again, those RVers have been replaced with Alaskans and the RV rentals I think. The town is filled to the gills. We’ll have to adjust to the crowds again now that we’re on the Kenai Peninsula.

    Anyway, the advantage of being at one of the waterfront campgrounds is that everything is walking distance. Shortly, we were at the small boat harbor, looking for the eatery where we had great halibut fish & chips in 2010. Alas, the place has since changed hands. The halibut portion of the dish was still good, but the fries … well, lets just say that they needed more time in the fryer.

    For dessert, we went to the Harbor Street Creamery for ice cream, which we enjoyed as we walked back to the campground. Instead of stopping when we reached our site, however, we kept going until we got to what I term the “Main Street” of Seward. A lot of familiar sights — including some of the murals that I photographed in 2010 — and some new ones.

    Eventually, we made our way back to the campground and settled in for a quiet evening at home.

    It’s been raining on and off since we got here. And there is nothing but rain in the forecast for the next few days. I’m hoping it won’t be constant, but hey … we’ll deal with whatever Mother Nature has in store for us.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Resurrection South is one of the waterfront campgrounds — Seward, AK.

    Plans Jiggled

    July 10, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    We have a ferry reservation out of Whittier on 13 July. So, the original plan was to arrive in the area on the 11th, spend a night in Portage and another in Whittier before getting on the ferry. But when we ended up driving from Valdez all the way to Portage on the 9th, those plans went by the wayside.

    Sure, we had plenty of ideas on how to spend the extra days in the area. The problem? They all required decent weather. So, as we were leaving the Begich-Boggs Visitor Center, we decided to head to Seward for three nights instead. After all, even if it continued to rain, there was at least one indoor activity we could do there. The downside was that we’d be driving the 80 miles back to take the ferry and then partway back to go to Homer after our ferry trip. The upside was that the new plan would free up our planned days in Seward and allow us to go somewhere new-to-us.

    So, we got back on the Portage Glacier Road and when we reached the Seward Highway, we turned south. It rained the entire way down to Seward. It rained when we stopped to switch our reservations. It rained as we set up in our temporary site at Resurrection South, one of the municipal campgrounds on the Seward Waterfront … temporary because there were no front-row sites available for tonight. No matter. We don’t have far to go when we move tomorrow.

    This place is little more than a parking lot, though the sites do have picnic tables and fire rings. There is one section of the campground that has W/E, but they’ve been reserved for quite some time, with no cancelations. So, we’re dry camping. To say that the sites are close-together would be an understatement. But we knew this when we decided this was where would be camping in Seward. It’s the waterfront location and its proximity to everything in town that drew us here. And that’s what we’re looking forward to for a few days starting tomorrow.    Read more

  • North to Alaska By RV 2021
    Mui kayaking in Prince William Sound — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.
    Mui makes friend with a mama moose nursing her calf — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.Portage Glacier in B&W — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.One of several interactive exhibits — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.3-D model of Portage Valley & Pass — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.Snowy owl mount & beaver skeleton — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.In case you want to make your own glacier, here's the recipe — Begich-Boggs VC ... Portage, AK.

    Begich, Boggs Visitor Center

    July 10, 2021 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    Wow! What a windy night we had at our boondock overlooking a glacial lake. And it never stopped raining throughout the night … not for one minute.

    It was still raining when we woke up. It continued to rain while we had breakfast and discussed our plans for the day … hiking was out on such a day; as was the cruise to Portage Glacier and the tram at the Alyeska Resort in Girdwood. It continued to rain as we headed over to the Begich-Boggs Visitor Center … overlooking Portage Lake.

    Our visit to Portage Lake this year is our third time here. The first time, in June 2021, the visitor center was already closed when we came back through the Whittier Tunnel. But we got to enjoy some amazing scenery at the ice-filled lake. In August 2010, there were no icebergs to enjoy … and our time was limited, so we took a pass on the VC in order to hike to Byron Glacier. This time we were bound and determined to visit the VC before continuing on with our plans.

    The interesting thing about this VC, which was built on the terminal moraine of Portage Glacier, is that it was designed to give visitors views of the glacier. Alas, by the time the VC was constructed, Portage Glacier had receded around the corner and there were no views of it to be enjoyed … though other views filled the void. Not today, however, as everything was veiled by the rain and fog.

    Despite the lack of glacier views, the VC is a great place to visit. We thoroughly enjoyed the movie … “Retreat & Renewal: Stories from Alaska’s Chugach National Forest.” The exhibits — many of them interactive — were also wonderful and very informative.

    A great place to spend an hour or so on a cold, rainy morning.    Read more

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