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Camino Mozárabe 2023Camino Mozárabe 2023
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Camino Mozárabe 2023

April - June 2023
A 58-day adventure by Andrew and Rachel Read more
  • 55footprints
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  • 58days
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  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    1
    Day 1

    Almería

    April 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After a bus ride from Málaga, we're back in Almería. We're staying in the beautiful albergue La Estrella del Camino, enjoying the kindness and hospitality of Nely and her partner Umberto.

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    Day 2

    Almería

    April 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    A beautiful day exploring Almería. We walked up the mineral loader ramp, recently opened to the public. We were lucky to get a few good photos of the views, as a fog settled in after about 15 minutes.
    The visit to the Museo Arqueológico de Almería was interesting.
    An enjoyable day.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    Day 3

    Day 1: Almería to Rioja, 15.3km

    April 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We have been warned that a heat wave was impacting Spain. So we bid farewell to Nely and Umberto early, and started our first day on the Camino Mozárabe. Almería to Rioja, 15.3km. There was a little breeze, but it wasn't enough to bring the temperature down as we walked the ramblas.
    A quick sello stop in Huércal, at the library, where the staff are very helpful, and we stopped to cool down in the shade at Pechina.
    At the albergue in Rioja, nothing has changed: the water in the swimming pool is still green 😄 Tonight, apart from us two, the distance challenged slow walkers 😉, there is a peregrino from Poland, a peregrina from France and one from the Netherlands.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    Day 4

    Day 2: Rioja to Santa Fe de Mondújar

    April 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We started the day in the coolness of the morning. We walked 8.5km. An enjoyable walk, where, compared with our walk last September, we saw flowers. An encounter with a flock of sheep was a nice surprise.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    2
    Day 4

    Los Millares

    April 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We thought we would have a quiet day ...
    Last year we had visited the archeological site of Los Millares, a bronze age settlement dating back 4500 years. Very interesting.
    When we arrived in Santa Fe de Mondújar, we caught up with Michel Cerdan, president of a the French association Amis du Camino Mozárabe, based in Paris. He was going to walk to the site using an old road, and asked if we wanted to keep him company. We were happy to do so, seeing more of that fascinating site.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    2
    Day 5

    Day 3: Santa Fe de Mondújar to Alboloduy

    April 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    A 16.3km enjoyable day marked by a few exciting sharp ups and downs, which we remembered from last year.
    The coolness of the morning was quickly replaced by the heat as the sun rose in the sky. We stopped a few times to rest.
    Last year, we had stayed in Santa Cruz de Marchena. For a change, we had decided to push on and stay at Alboloduy. Actually, we didn't have much of a choice: we're walking in a bubble of 15 pilgrims, so we were assigned two beds in Alboloduy, as Santa Cruz de Marchena was full.
    The evening was lively, with a nice mix of nationalities: England, New Zealand, Serbia, Spain and France. In addition to us Swiss Australians 😊    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    2
    Day 6

    Albolodúy to Nacimiento

    April 29, 2023 in Spain

    If one could follow the Río Nacimiento all the way, this would be a reasonably flat stage. As we can't, our 13.3km stage included a nice climb up from the river.
    Last year Nely had advised us not to go back down to the river. The river level was high at the time, and she recommended that we ask Santiago, the owner of the Centro Bar in Nacimiento, to pick us up.
    Today, the river bed was dry most of the way, which meant we didn't need to skip from one side of the river to the other. We also returned to the river, and reached the 50km mojón.
    It was very windy today. We don't know if that's a sign that the heat wave is about to end. Let's hope so.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    2
    Day 7

    Day 5: Nacimiento to Abrucena

    April 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Fifth stage, from Nacimiento to Abrucena, 18.5km.
    A quiet start, it's Sunday, everyone is sleeping, including the bar owner. She had told us she would be there at 7 am. The owner of the small shop in Nacimiento, who is awake this Sunday morning at 7:30 am, offers us yoghurts because the bar is not open. ¡Gracias José!
    We had a break for tostadas in Doña María's bar, and off to Abla.
    At the second motorway underpass approaching Abla, we ignored the big yellow crosses on the pillars and followed the rambla. Last year we had followed the arrows, and the endless shadeless bitumen road, trying to avoid cars. Annie would remember this stretch.
    Today, we chose the rambla with shady areas, no traffic, and we were not really bothered by the rocky path.
    A quick visit to the albergue d'Abla, and we arrived in Abrucena, in the new albergue. Abla's hospitalero had told us to take the road from Abla to Abrucena, but we should have followed the arrows which led to a path. It's nicer, said Mercedes of the Asociación. Following the road meant that there were no arrows to lead us to the albergue.
    It's a brand new comfortable albergue, with 6 beds. There is a washing machine which is not yet connected to a tap, but the spinning cycle works 😄. The fridge cable is too short to reach a power point, and we couldn't find an extension cord 😄.
    We had a good lunch at the Restaurante Bar Fuente Parrilla, where Gloria runs the show, and Jesús makes good food.
    Another glorious day! 😊    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    Day 8

    Day 6: Abrucena to Hueneja

    May 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    1st of May is a public holiday in Spain, and as we left Abrucena, everything was quiet.
    The Camino comes down rapidly from the town, with initially a good guidance of arrows. We walked through several orchards, with trees that will hopefully provide a good harvest.
    The arrows disappeared after a while, but Fiñana sitting on its hill guided us.
    There is an ermita in Fiñana that used to be a mezquita. Built in the 12th century, it was converted into a church at the Reconquista, but kept its quibla and decorations of its mirhab. By chance we saw the parish sacristan open the door, and he let us have a look around.
    The long walk along the rambla after Fiñana ensued, with beautiful scenery. When we arrived in La Huertezuela, where we intended to have our lunch, we found the village a buzz of activity. It was the romería of the local patron saint, San José Obrero. An outdoor mass was said, amidst the noise of the locals, and then everyone congregated to the square, where a giant paella was being cooked. We were the only ones there with a mochila, so we were approached by various participants, who invited us to join the crowd waiting for the paella.
    The wait was a bit too long, and we had nowhere to put our mochilas, which we kept on our backs. So after a while, we politely asked to be excused and we continued to Hueneja.
    We're staying at Casa Violeta. Violeta has now moved into the house with her family, so there's only one room, and we're the lucky ones.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    2
    Day 9

    Day 7: Hueneja to Alquife

    May 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Seventh stage, Hueneja to Alquife. 20 km on pleasant paths through almond orchards.
    A few small climbs, nothing too bad, just enough to do a little cardio.
    First stop, Dólar. Unfortunately, nothing is open. We continue our journey, this time with two Irishmen, father and son.
    We take a short break under a beautiful chestnut tree.
    Second stop, Ferreira. We will have our tostadas at the bar El Hogar.
    Then comes La Calahorra, with its castle on the hill. We visited it last year. A mojón tells us that we have walked 100 km from Almería.
    On the way to Alquife we meet a goatherd with his herd. He tells us about the drought, about the greed of human beings in search of money, about the fact that mankind is destroying nature. And he runs off after realising that his herd has wandered too far.
    And finally, at the end of the stage, we arrive in Alquife. The mine is huge and leaves a brown dust everywhere. For the last four days, the town celebrated the feast of the patron saint, San Hermenegildo. We see the remains of the festivities, all the bars and restaurants are closed, and there is not a soul around.
    Tonight we're sleeping in the albergue Lacho.    Read more

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