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Camino Mozárabe 2023Camino Mozárabe 2023
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Camino Mozárabe 2023

April - June 2023
A 58-day adventure by Andrew and Rachel Read more
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  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    2
    1
    Day 10

    Day 8: Alquife to Cogollos de Guadix

    May 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Eighth stage, from Alquife to Cogollos de Guadix. A short stage of 12.4km. One also needs short stages to enjoy the Camino.
    After saying goodbye to Lacho, whose albergue is very comfortable, we left Alquife along the huge mine tailings.
    In the cool of the morning we soon left this dusty place and arrived in Jerez del Marquesado. This village is a jewel on the Camino Mozárabe. Next to the Ayuntamiento, there is the Jardín de la Música, where you can enjoy the benches and flowers while listening to music.
    We had our morning tostada at the bar El Hogar de Jerez, where the local pensioners were around the bar.
    As we left Jerez del Marquesado, we could see the Sierra Nevada in the distance with some snow. The Camino took us close to the abandoned Santa Costanza mine, where copper and iron were extracted for over a century until 1955.
    A climb through a beautiful pine forest gave us a good view of the Pantano de Cogollos de Guadix, and the goal of our day, the village of Cogollos de Guadix. The fields of wheat, waving in the wind, are a welcome touch of green.
    Is it a sin for pilgrims to enjoy life a little? Last year, the owner of the bar Los Mellizos, Paco, showed us his new project, a hotel. It was recently opened, and we were given a pilgrim rate. Paco and his wife served us an excellent almuerzo. Come on, is a little luxury really a sin?    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    Day 11

    Day 9: Cogollos de Guadix to Guadix

    May 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Day 9, from Cogollos de Guadix to Guadix. Another short stage of 12.4km.
    After a good desayuno at Paco's bar Los Mellizos, there is not much to say about this stage. A quiet and simple walk, all down hill, with beautiful landscapes, until we reached the Barrio de las Cuevas.
    We passed the Alcazaba, the church of Santiago and in no time we were at the Plaza de la Constitución.
    After getting the usual sellos, we went our very comfortable accommodation for the next two nights, La Casona de la Luz. Gabi, the owner, is a playwright, an actor, an author, and an excellent ostheopath. He fixed a back pain that was lingering before our departure from Australia.
    We spent the afternoon with Michel, a french friend, who told us about the Cascamorros, his family history, his experience on the Camino, and many other things.
    We even met Paco, from the Asociación Jacobea de Almería-Granada.
    An evening is not complete without a good drink, and Michel took us to La Bodegilla. After a good drink, a good meal at Bodegas Calatrava.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    Day 12

    Guadix

    May 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Rest day in Guadix. Well, we didn't really rest, we didn't walk a stage ☺️ We filled our day well.
    We started with a guided tour of the Alcazaba of Guadix, a visit that is only done once a week, on Fridays. It is only recently that archaeological work has begun on the mound that covered this place. The French soldiers had filled in the whole area between the walls in order to establish their camp. Later, the seminarians from the nearby seminary used this place for sports. The work continues, and our guide told us that the aim will be to be able to offer visits to the Torre del Homenaje and the rest of the Alcazaba in 2024.
    After a siesta, we climbed the 160 steps to the bell tower of Guadix Cathedral. It was worth it! What views from the top! The Roman theatre really does look better from the top.
    After coming back down, we went to see the Cuevas interpretation centre. The presentation is well done, and we could see that the temperature was comfortable at 20°C, whereas outside it was close to 30°C. The only regret is that we only had half an hour for the visit before closing time. It would have taken an hour to really make the most of it.
    On our way out we met Paco who suggested we visit the Ermita Nueva. The modern building hides the first church which is a cueva.
    And to top off the day, we had a fantastic sunset from Gabi's terrace.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    4
    Day 13

    Day 10: Guadix to Baños de Graena

    May 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Day 10, from Guadix to Baños de Graena. 14 km, with all our little detours.
    We started just after sunrise. The exit from Guadix is not particularly beautiful, but very soon we were walking in a pine forest, on a beautiful path.
    Then just before arriving in Purullena, we passed through a canyon, where there was a levitating electric pole 😊
    A short stop in Purullena for a tostada, and we got back on the road.
    A small country road along olive groves lead us to Marchal, where the Ayuntamiento supports the Camino, in particular with a pilgrim shelter.
    Luckily, the church in Marchal was open: 6 children were about to receive their first communion.
    A short, last climb, and we arrived at Baños de Graena. We're sleeping at the Hostal Montual. We had booked at the Hostal Soledao, but they transferred us, because they have plumbing problems. In the comedor, for the almuerzo, we were the youngest 😄 First time we ate Migas de la Tierra, a dish from Extremadura. Very tasty!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    Day 14

    Day 11: Baños de Graena to La Peza

    May 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Eleventh stage, from Baños de Graena to La Peza. A short 10.3km more or less pleasant.
    We leave Baños on the road, passing through Graena where nothing is moving this Sunday morning.
    After about 3km, we follow a rambla, which gets narrower and narrower.
    2.5km of rambla, and the rest of the stage is on the road. Under a sun that doesn't hit too hard, fortunately.
    Along the way, we cross the mojón that tells us we've been walking for 150km.
    Finally we arrive at La Peza.
    Paco, a volunteer of the Asociación Jacobea de Almería-Granada in Guadix, challenges us to find the cannon that the villagers used to divert the French army (quite a story!), and a cruceiro. Challenge accepted!
    The albergue was handed over from the Ayuntamiento to the Asociación Jacobea de Almería-Granada recently. The volunteers have done a great job in cleaning the albergue and making it habitable. It is a pity that pilgrims still have to be reminded to take out the rubbish, to contribute to the upkeep of this accommodation.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    111
    Day 15

    Day 12: La Peza to Tocón de Quentar

    May 8, 2023 in Spain

    Stage 12, from La Peza to Tocón de Quentar, 13.2km.
    The steep and 'brutal' climb out of La Peza was quickly forgotten. This was a magnificent stage, with sensational views. Beautiful paths, where we even spotted some deer. Practically no road walking, except for the 50 metres at Puerto de Los Blancares.
    Unfortunately, the bar in Tocón is closed on Mondays, but the albergue is well equipped.
    We were even able to follow the small herd of sheep and goats that brightened up the landscape with their bells.
    There is a song in French, which describes a village:
    "Village, au fond de la vallée,
    Comme oublié, presque ignoré"
    Translating this for Tocón de Quentar, "Village at the bottom of the valley,
    As if lost, almost ignored." In any case, ignored by the mobile phone networks ☺️    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    111
    Day 16

    Day 13: Tocón de Quéntar to Quéntar

    May 9, 2023 in Spain

    Day 13, from Tocón de Quéntar to Quéntar, 15.5km.
    Those who walk from La Peza to Quéntar in one day, i.e. without going through Tocón de Quéntar, don't have the pleasure of doing the steep climb that will take us back to the Camino this morning. And what a climb it is!
    Another beautiful stage, with superb landscapes. Flowers, beautiful pine trees, some cut to extract the sap, views of the Sierra Nevada, a quarry of what looks like marble but isn't, a descent to Quéntar where you can see Granada in the distance, all of which made this stage a wonderful day.
    Last year we stayed at the Quéntar hotel, today we are staying at the private albergue Fundalucia, which offers a pool that is slowly filling up. Comfortable, not exclusively used by pilgrims, it has private rooms.
    We thought of you, Annie, as we went through the quarry. We hope your shoulder is getting better.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    1112
    Day 17

    Day 14: Quéntar to Granada

    May 10, 2023 in Spain

    Day 14, from Quéntar to Granada, 21.4km (counting all the detours).
    The last day of three beautiful stages, this one did not disappoint.
    The sound of the water of the Río de Aguas Blancas accompanied us as we left Quéntar. We followed a nice path along vegetable gardens and vineyards. It was too early to find anything open in Dúdar. So we didn't linger and started the steep climb. Fortunately, it wasn't yet too hot.
    A pause at the Canal de los Franceses, the remains of an aqueduct so called because it was built during the Napoleonic invasion, and the climb continued.
    At the top, we walked along a ridge. The acacias ( we think that's what they are) add a lovely touch of yellow to the beautiful landscape around us.
    Everything that goes up must come down, and we walked down to cross the Río Darro near the ruins of Jesus del Valle, a hacienda originally built by the Jesuits. A path through olive groves, then another along the Río Darro, finally lead us to the Sacromonte.
    As we are already there, why not visit this historical monument? The visit was enhanced by a flamenco concert in the cloister.
    And to top off the day, we arrived in Granada with breathtaking views of the Alhambra.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    Day 18

    Granada

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Rest day in Granada.
    Two visits marked the day: the Monasterio de San Jerónimo, and the Monasterio La Cartuja.
    The former is close to the cathedral, and on the Camino. We went there by strolling through the streets, passing through some of Granada's well-known sites.
    The Catholic Monarchs built the Monasterio de San Jerónimo in 1505 for the Spanish order of Hermits of Saint Jerome. There is a cloister, rooms such as the refectory, the Chapter House, and a late Gothic church.
    When we bought our tickets for the visits, we were told that we would have to take a bus to the Monasterio La Cartuja. Instead we walked there, which took us about 25 minutes, through the Elvira Gate, and down the street of the same name.
    The first Carthusian monks arrived in Granada around 1514. The Monasterio La Cartuja also has a cloister, various rooms, which house a large number of paintings by the lay Carthusian friar Juan Sánchez Cotán (1560 - 1627), and a baroque-style church.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Mozárabe 2023
    4111
    Day 19

    Day 15: Pinos Puente to Moclín

    May 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Fifteenth day: from Pinos Puente to Moclín, 15km.
    Last year we walked from Granada to Pinos Puente. It was not a very interesting experience, the night in the only hotel in Pinos Puente was not restful, and the town seemed to be trying to lower the average cleanliness of the area.
    So this year we decided to take a bus, number 325, from the centre of Granada to Pinos Puente, and walk to Moclín.
    The first 5km of the stage are not done in the best conditions. They follow the GR-3408 road, which is very busy with morning commuters, and where motorists do not observe the speed limits. We opted for a safety measure: send the main part of the troop ahead with a fluorescent yellow vest waved at arm's length 😄
    After Cortijo de Bucór, the path improves, and we pass through olive trees to Olivares.
    The highlight of the day is the climb to Moclín for the last 3-4km. A fairly steep climb, punctuated by shady areas, among the pine trees. Halfway up, a small chapel offers a little coolness. At each bend, a glance backwards regales us with superb views.
    And finally, at the last bend in the path, we see the Alcazaba of Moclín, with its ruins.    Read more

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