SE Asia

March 2024 - July 2025
  • Phoebe Fox
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Food, thoughts and photos Read more
  • Phoebe Fox
Currently traveling

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Backpacking
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  • 479days
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  • Suhsiiii
    Mei Ho House museumTofu pudding, underwhelming. Didn't realise it was just cold soft tofu with sugar on top aha. 5/10Tofu shopOne of the only remaining areas with big neon lightsNext dayCable car floor viewDifference of 5 minutesBig Buddha we climbedLunchTai O fishing villagePreserved egg yolks drying outSo many stray cats here, even have a little house for themSweet tea bun? Not really a bun, more of a mochi and no tea flavour!

    Hong Kong day 13 & 14

    Jun 6–7, 2024 in Hong Kong ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Met Angel and her mum in town this afternoon, and we went to a small museum called Mei Ho House, which is a part of a block of old flats which had been repurposed into a YMCA. Mei Ho House originated from a devastating blaze that broke out in 1953 which caused 58,000 people to become homeless. In order to provide long-term housing to a large number of fire victims, the government built the first batch of resettlement blocks on the site of the fire. Mei Ho House marked the beginning of Hong Kong’s public housing policies, providing affordable homes for those on low incomes. The museum focused on the history of the local community and was really interesting, even though it was small, my favourite museum in HK this far.
    Afterwards we grabbed some sushi as well as some tofu dessert. I then was left to wander the city on my own, and I went to seek out some neon signs. Hong Kong was known for it's brightly illuminated streets, before I came away, my friend from work was showing me photos from his trip here 7 years ago, and it looked so different. The government has increased public safety regulations for neon signs, and according to google, over 12,000 signs have been removed since 2003. I understand the safety concerns, however it's a shame as it seemed to give the streets real character. The one corner I found looked so vibrant with the multicoloured lights, even though they only belonged to a couple local restaurants and shops, nothing fancy.
    The next day, I joined Angel's family up the Ngong Ping cable car up to Chung station. They'd bought us the best ticket up, so we were in a completely glass cable car, and got 360 views for the 30 minute ride up to the top. Was pretty cool, even when half way up we lost our view and were surrounded by fog and clouds. Once at the top, we grabbed lunch in a restaurant in a monastry. We then climbed up to Tian Tan buddha, before hopping on a bus along to the nearby old fishing village of Tai O.
    It was very quaint little town, I'm not sure how much fishing still happens, but was nice to wander down the little streets. There were so many stray cats! We grabbed some Chinese doughnuts from a food stall, and also took shelter from the rain in a nice coffee shop before heading back to the mountain to get the cable car back down. The weather was even worse on the way down, the clouds only really cleared for the last 5/ 10 minutes, and at times we could barely see the forest below. Luckily we just had a normal return ticket, so the fancy cable car wasn't wasted.
    In the evening we went bowling, which just reminded me how bad I am at it. I did actually get a few strikes the second game, but also had rounds where I didn't hit any pins 😅 I was happy with a respectable 2nd place for the second game (not gonna mention where I came for the first). Then grabbed some yet again yummy veggie Chinese food for dinner. I've eaten so well in HK!
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  • Hong Kong day 11 & 12

    Jun 4–5, 2024 in Hong Kong ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Today was the much anticipated Disney day! We had planned to go last week, but neither of us did our research, and it was closed on the day we planned to go!
    This week Angel's mum had the week off so she came with us and actually bought the tickets!
    It's the smallest Disneyland in the world, so we managed to cover all the areas in the day. Was perfect weather, overcast, so not too hot or rainy. They had a new Frozen area which was built like the town in the film, which was so cool. The first ride was fun, but we queued for 40 mins for the second, and it only lasted maybe 45 seconds!!
    We went to a 3D Mickey mouse orchestra screening and a 4D iron man adventure, both of which we got very snazzy glasses for. My favourite area was the Toy Story section, there were toy airplanes and building blocks towering over us. My favourite ride was Hypersonic space mountain, which was the star wars ride. It was an indoor rollercoaster in the dark, the only light coming from the star spotted wall and flashes of tie fighters and star fighters. It was so fast, according to google up to 44mph, and I think I screamed all the way. We went on it later and Angel said they speed it up even more just before it closes to get people through as quick as possible!
    My only goal of the day was to meet Stitch! But we heard from multiple sources (employees I made Angel go ask) that he wasn't coming out today :(
    Was a really fun day but also very tiring, they had a light show and fireworks in the evening to close off the night before everyone emptied from the park and boarded back on the Disney train home.
    After being surrounded by so many people yesterday, I had another island day today. I did originally want to go hiking, but once again the weather was not on my side. I'd previously walked around the north, so just did a loop around the south of the island. Without all the stopping, I can't imagine it'd have taken more than 40 minutes, but I explored every viewpoint and beach I came across.
    In Vietnam and Hong Kong, I noticed outdoor exercise equipment everywhere. Even in the seemingly very rural villages in Vietnam, there were static bikes in communal areas, and on the island here they had a little outdoor gym area, even with a section for the elderly.
    Overall a pretty uneventful day.
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  • Hong Kong day 9 & 10

    Jun 2–3, 2024 in Hong Kong ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Had an early start this morning to catch the 7.45 ferry over to the main island, then rode the underground for an hour, right to the top of Hong Kong, and met Angel and her family. I was told several times to make sure I got off at the right stop, otherwise I'd end up at the Chinese border 🤣
    We were going for lunch with Angel's Grandpa who is a monk and has been for over 25 years. He's a master, so even Angel and her mum called him Shifu (like in Kung Fu Panda hehe) which translates to master in Cantonese. He lives in a small complex of buildings with his student, Ting Zi, who cooks and looks after him. They don't eat after 12 to better focus on meditation, so have a big meal at 11. When we got there we said hello, looked around then I followed the family up to a room with a shrine where the food was blessed and lit incense. Shifu got two puppies over a year ago for security as they got robbed a couple of times. They were now fully grown pups, but are so scared. They barked relentlessly when we got there, but wouldn't get closer than a few metres before running away.
    Ting Zi cooked up an absolutely huge spread of vegan food including 'fried eggs', 'prawns' and 'char sui' (BBQ pork). Even though monks can't eat a lot of spices, or onion or garlic for religious reasons, it was still sooo delicious.
    I then sat and 'talked' to Shifu, where he told me about Buddhist teachings in Cantonese and Angel had to translate. Towards the end, her translation was 'he's basically saying lots of metaphors'. He was impressed that I'd been vegetarian my whole life, and told me to thank my mum for raising me that way. When I showed him some photos of Buddhist temples I'd seen in Vietnam and Thailand, he told me to visit the ones in France.
    I got sent home with tubs of leftover food as well as almost a month's supply of roasted peanuts 🤣
    Angel's dad works as a policeman and is on night shifts, so he headed back whilst the rest of us took a train to Tseung Kwan O and cycled along the promenade on bikes. The humidity made for an extremely hot ride and some unfortunate, yet absolutely hilarious sweat patches.
    For dinner we went to a vegetarian buffet, the food was surprisingly tasty! I spose I associate buffets back home with pretty rubbish food, but everything I tried was delicious, I wish I could've eaten more!
    The next day I ate some of the best food I'd had so far! We went to a renowned vegetarian dim sum restaurant, which had a cancellation so we were able to get in.
    Absolutely stuffed to the brim, we then went to one of the only things I had on my list for Hong Kong which was the cup noodle museum! Not sure why it was called a museum as there was no exhibit, but we got to draw on a cup to create our own design, pick the broth flavour and toppings, then watch them assemble and seal it up like a proper pot noodle! Was very exciting and a good bit of fun. We were all so full from lunch, didn't bother with dinner.
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  • Very much enjoying having tea every morning again. (It's too milky I know! teabags aren't strong!
    Clever onigiri packaging keeps seaweed nice n crunchy, this one was salted egg yolkHazelnut ramen for lunch, sooo delicious, 9/10Space museumWay to make me feel small, our solar system in one of these tiny dots 😳Stepping out of aircon into humid airHK Museum of ArtNice view of a side of the cityLots of Instagram photo shoots happening here 🤣Probably the most famous person born in HKSweet n sour vegan ham for tea, very tasty 7/10 and so cheap! £6 with soup & teaNext day - biggest flat white I've ever had 😳Rainy Peng ChauOne of the few small temples on the islandDelicious local beer

    Hong Kong day 7 & 8

    May 31–Jun 1, 2024 in Hong Kong ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    It was forecast to rain all day again today, so I paid a visit to a few museums in central. First stop was Hong Kong history museum which was extremely disappointing as all but one exhibit was closed for refurbishment. The one exhibit that I did quickly look around was about the ancient history of China, which wasn't really what I wanted to learn about! The space museum was less disappointing, was definitely more catered towards kids, however there were some nice exhibits to look round. I also caught a show in the planetarium, which I accidentally fell asleep for half of, but it was a good nap. My favourite place of the day was the Hong Kong museum of Art! It had a range of different exhibits, as well as tall glass windows on each of the five floors looking out onto the harbourside of Hong Kong island.
    In the evening I walked along the waterfront which was bustling with people, before finding a vegetarian restaurant for dinner. It was bizarrely on the second floor of an apartment building which I had to get the lift up to. It reminded me of a small school cafeteria, ran by a few ladies and full of locals. Was extremely reasonable and pretty tasty.
    The next day the heavens opened up, Yesterday there was a yellow warning for rain and a possible typhoon warning, neither of which happened, so the weather seemed to be making up for it today.
    I was a little museum-ed out and didn't see much point of trying to hike in the rain so I had a very lazy island day. In the evening I introduced Sanguma to the film Ponyo which I think she enjoyed, but she also might have fallen asleep half way through after having a whisky 😅
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  • Hong Kong day 5 & 6

    May 29–30, 2024 in Hong Kong ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    Met angel in the centre again today, we tried to find vegetarian ramen for lunch but failed miserably, all the Japanese restaurants we tried had something meaty in the broth 😭 we settled for dumpling soup.
    I then dragged us to a bakery which had some of the top-rated egg tarts in Hong Kong. There was a bit of a queue, but it moved really fast, they were going through trays of maybe 50 tarts every few minutes, which was pretty impressive to see. They were super crispy sourdough flakey pastry, pretty much like Pasta del Nata, so not the classic HK type, but so tasty.
    In the afternoon we met Janie and visited one of the largest temples in the city. It was actually a nunnery, but had a beautiful garden. Even though you could see skyscrapers towering outside the garden wall, on the inside it was so peaceful.
    We ventured to another famous street, fish street. Which had rows of shops selling fish, a lot of them rather cruelly kept in water-filled plastic bags hanging outside. There were also shops selling all sorts of animals from geckos and turtles to chinchillas and rabbits, puppies, kittens, crabs, spiders, you name an animal - you could probably buy it on this street. It was interesting to look around, but I did feel sorry for a lot of the animals. We walked past a cat store where there were cats on sale for up to £3000!!
    On the way here, Janie bought us a stick of stinky tofu to try. It's a Hong Kong/ Chinese speciality, and you could smell the stall selling it from a few shops down. It smelt like a bin, which dwasn't appetising. Once covered in sauce, it actually tasted okay, but the aftertaste it left in your mouth was horrible. I definitely wouldn't eat it again haha.
    For dinner we went to a vegetarian Thai restaurant, then found more Chinese sweet soup desserts afterwards.
    The next day I wanted to do some hiking, but I woke up to the noise of the rain absolutely hammering down. In the afternoon, the weather had cleared up and I got a ferry to the largest of the 263 islands (most of which are uninhabited). I didn't have enough time to hike over to the next ferry stop, so instead I went on a mission to find this waterfall I'd seen on google. I saw it from a distance, but the two different paths I went on to try to see it properly were not successful. The latter of which took me to a part of the river above the waterfall, I could hear the water crashing down but with no obvious way to view it without taking a swim. Instead I looped over the top of a hill, down the other side back to the ferry port. Apart from a handful of people I saw visiting a smaller waterfall at the beginning of the path, I didn't see anyone else along the way, which was quite nice to be honest!
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  • Breakfast courtesy of Angel's mums baking
    Matcha!Chinese delicacy called a century egg, had a jelly like consistency and a taste I wasn't sold onDark chocolate bubble waffle, sooooo tastySlightly bland pile of tofu & vegThank god for Google translateMango, red rice, taro & coconut pudding, 7/10Next day - never had a latte served like this beforePretty Peng ChauThere were these mops (fire beaters) everywhere to put out wildfires"Top" of Peng ChauFirst dinner for myself I've cooked in weeks!

    Hogn Kong day 3 & 4

    May 27–28, 2024 in Hong Kong ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Had a very lazy morning before meeting Angel for coffee and a wander round town. Hong Kong has so many shopping malls it's crazy! And these malls don't just have clothes shops, they have food stands, restaurants, mini arcades, market style stalls, pretty much everything, and there's one practically every five minutes down the road! Some of them are 7 stories high, or ones with only 1 or 2 floors then have 25 floors of apartments above! It's crazy how much is stacked up and crammed into a seemingly small city.
    We grabbed some 'fast food' for lunch. I put that is commas because the service for all the food here is so quick! Plus this sorta fast food isn't super unhealthy, we both got a bowl of noodles, a drink and a side and it came to maybe £15. Lots of things here are similar price to back home, but eating out is definitely a lot more reasonable! Plus, a majority of meals will come with a drink, normally ice tea or milk tea (different from English tea), then all the Chinese dim sum places supply you with endless hot tea.
    I also noticed that no one jay walks here! Everyone obeys the green man traffic light, even if the road is completely clear! (A week later I learnt that it's because it's illegal and you can be fined £100, which no one thought to tell me!).
    Angel then went home and I continued my stroll. Some parts of the city are very modern with shiny skyscrapers and people walking round in suits. Other parts still have skyscrapers, but are less modern looking apparent buildings with rows of restaurants with neons signs bellow. I prefer the latter as it's more interesting to look round and has more character.
    I found a veggie place for food. The meal itself was very bland, but I was the only one in this tiny restaurant, so got chatting to the owner. She was very lovely, telling about her kids living in the UK and she was also impressed with my chopsticks skills and the fact I asked for chilli sauce haha.
    Found a nice place for pudding (I have a new found love of Asian sweets soup desserts) before hopping on the MTR to the harbour and getting a ferry home.
    The next morning, I had the day to myself. I decided to avoid the hustle of the city and stay in Peng Chau. Had a lovely long lie in before making up some lunch. Angel's mum has very kindly stocked the freezer full of veggie fodder and got me some instant noodles and snacks in, so I can make a quick lunch.
    In the afternoon I grabbed a coffee and ventured around the north of the island. It's not a big place so doesn't take long to get anywhere, only did probably an hour of walking with some stops off at a beach and the 'peak' of the island. Is a very cute little place, not somewhere I'd like to live but ideal for a 2 week stay.
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  • Hong Kong day 1 & 2

    May 25–26, 2024 in Hong Kong ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    For my first full day in Hong Kong, Angel, her mum and I visited another island called Cheung Chau. It's a much bigger island than the one I'm staying on, and had quite a few cute shops and cafe to browse in. It's famous for it's "lucky bun" - a filled bao bun with red lettering printed on. They have an annual lucky bun festival where competitors race to the top of the tower covered in the buns!
    It was really sunny so we wandered around, then grabbed some food. The next ferry back wasn't for another couple hours so me and Angel sought entertainment in a cat cafe.
    We then got the ferry back to Peng Chau where Angel's dad met us and I got treated to being cooked for again! From Cheung Chau, we had picked up a selection of mochi, the one their famous for being the mango one, but were all delicious.
    The next day, Angel, Sanguma and I ventured into town. Sanguma is the name given to the third sister of your dad, so each of your aunties and uncles have a different name depending on how many siblings they have and whether they're on your mum or dads side! I started calling her Sanguma even though she's not my auntie but it quickly stuck.
    We went on the famous double decker trams in an area called Sheung wan and grabbed coffee. Then wandered down a famous street called 'dried seafood street'. Which you can imagine, smelled very strong, and pretty much every single shop was selling some sort of dried thing from the ocean 🤣
    We grabbed the tram into central and sheltered in some delightful aircon which we explored an art gallery and some auction halls which was oddly fun, looking at things we could never afford. Although the temperature is only in the high twenties, it's so humid!
    We met Janie for dinner, and was treated to some delicious veggie dim sum again. Angel headed back home with her mum whilst me & Sanguma took an evening ferry back to Peng Chau.
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  • Hanoi ➡️ Hong Kong

    May 24, 2024 in Hong Kong ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    I shuffled out my hostel room at 5am and packed in the corridor to not disturb anyone. I promptly napped for the entirety of my 2 hour flight, and was greeted by Angel (uni friend) at the airport, who had already put a bubble tea order in, which we collected and happily drunk on the bus into town.
    We then got an MTR (underground train system here) to a restaurant where we met her parents and aunt. I felt a bit stupid with my huge rucksack on, wading through the crowds of office workers on their lunch break, but was a proper introduction to the city.
    We had delicious Chinese dim sum (small dishes) for lunch, which I didn't have to make any ordering decisions for, and was constantly having different foods put in my bowl, and told to try this and that. Was great.
    We then hopped back on the MTR, (all five of us) to the harbour and onto a ferry to an island called Peng Chau, which is where I'm staying for the duration of my time here. It's the smallest of the Hong Kong islands still connected by the main ferry service. There's no cars there, only bikes, is a mere 1km² with 4000 people. So it was a very short walk from the pier to the house, through a series of small lanes. Not sure if this will work, but here's a cool link to google maps ariel view of the island!
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/8gcPHCn6vqiQV856A?g_st=ac
    After settling in, Angel's dad pulled out a big green table and set up Mahjong (a traditional Chinese game played with domino-like blocks). I had to be coached by Janie (Angel's mum) as the rules were quite complicated and I couldn't read some of the lettered titles 😅 Aas really fun, and I actually won one round! I got left unsupervised while Janie cooked food, which went slightly less well. I then taught Angel and her dad the card game 'shithead' which is equally as cultural to backpackers as Mahjong is to Hong Kong people haha.
    After food, Angel's parents left and her aunt stayed a few houses down where her Grandma lives. I didn't manage to stay awake through the entirety of the film we watched, so scurried off to bed for an early night.
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  • Disappointing pho and greasy spring rolls 😢 5/10
    Much more delicious dessert in a cute shop, 8/10!Best egg coffee of the tripRice paper salad, (I left it too long before I ate it so became a blob, but very tasty) 7/10Chocolate coffee bun, 6.5/10 so fluffy need more flavourNot my favourite Vietnamese pancake of the trip, 6/10Caramel flan with taro pudding, 7/10Perils of top bunk, navigating scary stairs5am train encounter, crowds of the school run, egg coffee prep & park massage lines

    Back to Hanoi

    May 23, 2024 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Back in Hanoi today! I didn't arrive until 5am, and watched from my taxi as the morning train rattled through the city.
    I didn't end up doing a lot, apart from some shopping in-between meals, snacks and coffee stops. Snacks and desserts were a hit, however both lunch and tea was extremely disappointing. The restaurants I picked had good reviews, and I ordered basic food like Pho or vietnamese pancakes, so I'm not sure what went wrong :(
    I did finally get to see egg coffee in the morning, the barista explained as he went along. He whipped up one egg yolk per coffee with the smallest bit of egg whites, caramel syrup, condensed milk and a dash of white rum. It whipped up into a thick glossy mixture, which was poured onto drip coffee, and finished off with cocoa powder. It was so tasty.
    I don't know why but I hate packing the night before, I much prefer the morning off, so I set my alarm for 5, for a mid morning flight to Hong Kong!
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  • Cao Bang day 2/ ➡️ Hanoi

    May 22, 2024 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Today squeezed in a near 200km motorbike loop into 13 hours. After being fed at the hostel, I met my driver and fellow traveller and her driver, who was also our tour guide. My driver was called Uncle (as he's older, out of respect older people are called auntie or uncle even when you're unrelated). I missed the second part of his name, so we just called him uncle all day 😅
    We set off just after 8, zooming out of Cao Bang in no time, we were quickly surrounded by beautiful Vietnamese countryside. Along the way up to the waterfall, we stopped in two villages, the first of which was an incense village. Reeds used as the core of incense sticks were laid neatly in rows by the curbside. As we walked through the tiny village, there were people taking on different jobs within the process, and it seemed like it was a very communal effort. There were water buffalo chilling in sheds, (they're used to work the farms), chickens running around and sleeping dogs laid across walkways and curled up in corners. Our tour guide explained the incense making process, and that most of the finished products are either sold to temples or at local markets.
    The next village was only 10 minutes down the road, with a similar laid back atmosphere, but was known for it's blacksmithery. There were maybe half a dozen workshops with one of two people in, either melting soldering metal, hammering or shaping all sorts of objects, from knives to farming ploughs.
    Apart from one person in the first village, we were the only tourists in both places, so it didn't feel crowded or invasive, and it was nice to wander through and observe seemingly traditional life for these people.
    Around midday day we pulled up at Ban Gioc waterfalls, which are the largest in North Vietnam but more impressively straddle the border between Vietnam and China!
    There were two main falls, the wider falls cascaded into the river, which act as the border, and the second falls were to the left, stood at 30m.
    We approached the edge of the river and hopped on a raft which took us up closer to the main waterfall. Was quite funny as there were also boats/rafts leaving from the Chinese side of the waterfall too. Don't know why being able to see another country is exciting, but it was!
    We walked around the second waterfall which I found more impressive, and climbed up little paths which took us really close to the water and was a lot quieter.
    Just a 2 minute drive from the waterfall, we then wandered round a temple on a mountain. The temple itself wasn't particularly impressive, however the view from it was! We could see the waterfalls, the river they stem from, as well as a huge mountain range and the Chinese and Vietnamese countryside merging into one.
    After a much needed lunch, uncle had a nap on his motorbike while our tour guide took us two into Dong Nguom Ngao caves. They had some pretty spectacular alien looking rock formations and pillars inside, as well a huge rock which looked like an upside down lotus flower (looked much cooler than it sounds!).
    The next hour of driving after of the caves was my favourite of the whole day, any videos I took didn't really capture the beauty of it, but we just drove through really gorgeous rural countryside. Through such vivid green rice fields with the sun shining down, paddocks with water buffalo, small villages with kids running about. I was worried we might run over an animal as so many dogs and chickens ran across the road seemingly emerging from nowhere! The best thing was that the roads were so quiet, we rarely passed any other bikes, and practically no cars.
    We had a little coffee stop and met one of the cutest dogs I've seen.
    Feeling refuelled, we took a turn down some smaller roads and up a very bumpy hill and emerged a the top of this random path. When we hopped off the bikes and walked a few metres we were met with a row of gorgeous green mountains, the middle of which had a hole in the top, called Angel's eye, which stood in front of a small lake with the setting sunset showering a golden glow on the water. It looked like a postcard.
    We drove back as the sun was stopping, and got back to the hostel in time for a beer, some food and a shower before getting whisked away on another night bus, back down to Hanoi!
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