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Via Francigena - part 1
  • Carmel Carlsen

Via Francigena - part 1

I'll be walking the first part of the pilgrimage from Canterbury Cathedral to Grand Saint Bernard Pass. Read more
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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 20 - Seraucourt la Grand to Tergnier

    May 10, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    The rain held off for the first 5 km or so, and then, all the gear, my rain gear, and my backpack that I had managed to dry overnight got soaked all over again! The walk started across farmland on what was an old stone road and then became a lengthy walk next to the Canal du Saint Quentin with only one quagmire to contend with. It was lovely. I saw some herons and another six locks (no photos as they all look pretty much alike). I got to Tergnier and tried at three places to get accommodation (not one responded to my previous emails and I can't ring as my UK SIM will not let me make calls) and the only 'Hotel' open (apparently this is a 'recovering' area) doesn't offer accommodation anymore! Luckily, there is a train station here so I'm cheating and catching the train to Laon! To be perfectly honest, it's probably for the best as the walk between Tergnier and Laon is at least 39 km, and the forecast is for thunderstorms tomorrow! I'm not up for that. I saw a lot of pilgrim spray on signs today, and I've added some in my pics.Read more

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    Day 21 - rest day (Laon)

    May 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Laon is my very first medieval town, so you will have to excuse me for being awestruck. I took a lot of photos today and did not capture a tenth of the place. In some ways, the narrow streets and closeness of everything can be a little claustrophobic and foreboding and a little sad, as you are surrounded by buildings that appear to be holding each other up, and just barely at that. The ramparts are huge and well maintained. I was disappointed not to be able to visit the Chapel of the Knights Templar as it was being renovated. P.S. I'm sleeping in the attic room, of a four storey 1800s building, and have to climb 57 steps to get up there!Read more

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    Day 22 - Laon to Corbeny

    May 12, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Some really fantastic walking today. Of course, it was raining when I left Laon, but the worst of it was gone around midday. After leaving the misty peaks of Laon and the surrounding urban area, there was some farmland walking (I walked through some wheat fields), some (artificial) lake side walking (Lac de l'Ailette), and a good bit of forest walking - just lovely. I saw a fox today, bold as brass. It had no fear of me at all, and some white swans in their natural habitat. P.S. I should have mentioned the Chemin du Roi (the Kings path) with this post - it was very much a highlight of the day; magnificent trees and a really lovely path.Read more

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    Day 23 - Corbeny to Hermonville

    May 13, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I walked under the sun today. What a treat! The best part of my day, though, was getting into my accommodation just minutes before the forecast "thundershowers" came down with a vengeance! I saw some actual barges on the Canal Lateral a l'Aisne, and I'm now in Champagne! So, all the bubbly I drink here will be the real thing. Not much mud today, but it was the sticky kind that makes you lose your boot tread - so some gingerly stepping from me. I followed a pheasant along the path for some distance and from some distance back. Naturally, that distraction made me miss my turnoff, but I recovered. Anyway, pheasants appear to be like chickens (not in appearance) in that they can fly but prefer to walk. My achievement today; I climbed up 250 m, after leaving one village, only to have to descend that same 250 m to get into Hermonville. I had a good laugh at the statue of Don Quixote in the meals room of my hotel from last night at Corbeny - are they having a subtle dig, or not so subtle dig, at us pilgrims? Just a note on the pictures: the French really know how to stack wood, I believe the religious statues are of Joan of Arc (my new idol) and St. George the dragon slayer.Read more

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    Day 24 - Hermonville to Reims

    May 14, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The overcast day started with forest walking - fabulous. I shared the path with joggers, their dogs, cyclists, dirt bikes, quad bikes and one hiker (pilgrim status: unlikely - we had no common language and he had what appeared to be a day pack, with poles). The going was slow, with all the lefting and righting to find the best path through the puddles. The day ended with a lovely canal walk (Canal de l'Aisne a la Marne) into Reims. My accommodation crisis was solved by the tourist office (luckily, they were open on a Sunday), who managed to get me accommodation for tomorrow night. I had been unable to obtain accommodation for the next two nights and this way, I walk a little longer tomorrow and divert from the path for the following day - but it gets me where I need to be in two days time. I got a pilgrim stamp at the Cathedral in Reims and met an Australian pilgrim there; Sue, from Queensland. I did have a brut champagne last night at the Pizza place (I felt too daggy to try the French restaurant), and the hotel I'm in now has a vending machine where I have a choice of two champagnes (€40 or €50) however, I had my beer at the Earnest Hemingway Cafe and that will do me. Oh, and I broke Find Penguins tonight by trying to upload 11 photos. The only way I could get the app to work was to buy a premium membership - beware. P.S. those spots in that pond are frogs, it was magic to hear the croaking.Read more

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    Day 25 - Reims to Trepail

    May 15, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Obviously, the Cathedral in Reims is a highlight. But a walk through Basilique Saint Remi is also worth the visit. The VF path going out of Reims was along the canal (12 km worth). It's a very nice way to leave an urban area, though a little hard on the feet as it's all paved. Believe it or not, those water pumps work. All you have to do is rotate the brass handle at the top. I saw signs of commerce with what looked like wheat being loaded onto a barge. After the canal walk, I moved into farmland for a while and then onto the vineyards. I saw a few names I recognised. The day ended with a mixture of forest and vineyard walking. It looks like the French forestry department takes a similar approach to our Australian ones - take out whatever you can get (sustainably, of course 😉). I saw a little snake today. It looked sluggish and probably could have used some sun (no complaints from me, I got a good lot of sun this morning). I met my first walking pilgrim on the path this afternoon. A Brit, who sleeps 'wild' as he calls it. It seems to me that those with a tent are much better served and have a lot more options than those of us who are relying on hotels, etc., on the VF. The highlight of my day, though, was a WhatsApp call from my girls - I was so happy to see them 💗 ☺️ 💕 😊.Read more

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    Day 26 - Trepail to Chalons en Champagne

    May 16, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    I was about 8 km off route when I started my day and the road took me through the small town of Ambonnay - there were signs of the champagne industry everywhere there. Luckily, I managed to rejoin the trail just after 9 am at Conde sur Marne. The rest of the walk was along the Canal Lateral a la Marne in what appeared to be a perfectly straight line. All is right with the world, I walked in sunshine all day. I saw two barges (one commercial and one leisure), swans, ducks, and the biggest thrill was walking behind a heron who wanted to have its photo taken. The only disappointment was I did not get to see a lock in action. The highlight of the day, however, was coming across two Dutch pilgrims who are walking the VF in reverse! They are a lovely couple: Riet and Guus. Like me, they have had trouble sourcing accommodation and will share their info with me via email. I may have just struck gold as the tourist office here has been less than helpful. Oh, and I've just finished the most delicious glass of champagne! Note: one of the photos shows where the Canal Saint Martin flows under the Canal Lateral a la Marne (at right angles)!Read more

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    Day 27 - rest day (Chalons en Champagne)

    May 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    It was a beautiful sunny day today. The wind was very chilly, but all was good. I acted as a tourist and explored the city using their very handy audio guide. I am staying here an extra day as I could not get accommodation at my next stop until the night after next. I have used my time wisely and have booked the next eleven nights' accommodation. I only have to cook once in that time frame (fingers crossed, as many restaurants are not open on a Monday night). I have saved my museum visits for tomorrow. Look at this, you can buy a cut loaf of bread without crusts! There is a very diverse range of architecture in this city. Note the dirty archway; it's the entrance to the police station. P.S. it was Market Day today, and I was able to buy some lovely fresh fruit straight from the farm.Read more

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    Day 28 - rest day (Chalons en Champagne)

    May 18, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I felt the impact of our car focused world today. It was extremely difficult for the Tourist office staff and the Hotel reception to understand that I wanted directions out of the city so that I could walk the 16 km return to L'Epine where the Basilique Notre Dame, apparently a must visit for pilgrims to Spain on the St. Jacques route, is located. Anyway, I'm glad I persisted. The walk was pleasant, and what I'd failed to appreciate was that today was a public holiday in France - Ascension Day: a big day for Notre Dame herself - and just after I got there the place began to fill with brothers, nuns and lay folk, and a service started. I stayed, sat towards the back, and was privileged to be among some beautiful singers, both male and female. The French are much tougher than us; they kneel directly onto the stone floor.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 29 - Chalons en Champagne to La Chau

    May 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    A nice variety in the walk today. Some riverside walking, along La Marne, cultivated fields and some canal walking (back on the Canal Lateral a la Marne). The hotel I'm staying at tonight is right on Le Fion River, I can see it from my window. I went on a Vivid style of river cruise last night in Chalons called Barque Métamorph’eau’ses it was really lovely. Classic ending though; rather than return to where we started; it finished in a park with no lighting at 11 pm at night! Thankfully, I had undertaken the audio guide tour of the city and knew exactly where I was. Note the lone rubbish bin in the middle of nowhere. P.S. I met, together, a Spanish man, walking the Saint-Jacques Compostelle, and a French man walking the VF - the two paths coincide for quite a bit.Read more

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    Day 30 - La Chaussee sur Marne to Vitry

    May 20, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A lot of farmland walking today was interspersed with sections of very welcome and lovely, tree covered paths and dirt roads. I saw squirrels this morning - they moved so fast, and I was lucky enough to get a shot. I met up with two Australians doing the VF; Sue, I met at the Cathedral in Reims, and Lyn. When I got to Vitry Le François I visited the Cathedral, and this time, I gatecrashed a wedding! P.S. one of the pictures is my attempt to capture another river crossing - La Saulx - at right angles, under the Canal Lateral a la Marne.Read more

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    Day 31 - Vitry Le François to Drosnay

    May 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The first half of the walk today was up and down rolling hills in cultivated fields on well maintained weatherproof (read: rocks) agricultural roads. Which can be a little hard on the feet and sometimes treacherous when coming down. I finished the official route at Saint Remy en Bouzemont (France has a lot of little places with very big names) and then had to walk another 8 km, off the path, to get to my accommodation in Drosnay. I saw a lot of beautiful flowers today. The Spanish man who is walking the Saint-Jacques Compostelle is also staying here and was at the same accommodation as myself last night. Trouble is he speaks Spanish, obviously, and French - I speak neither!Read more

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    Day 32 - Drosnay to Villeret

    May 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The forecast for today was fog, and it remained hazy and overcast all day - though surprisingly warm. I rejoined the Path at Outlines, which meant I missed a stage of the VF, but I'll have to live with that - no accommodation means I can't do the walking. Not far from Outlines, I got off track reasonably badly. I was encouraged in my error by way markers that indicated I was on the right path! I didn't twig when the way markers told me to go left when I'd expected a right hand turn (I've been wrong on that score before) but I did twig when I saw, in the distance, the Spanish man doing the Saint-Jacques Compostelle, whose end point today was completely different from mine! I back tracked, closely following the VF app, and was not surprised that I'd missed the turn. The 'track' was just an impression of one filled with waist high grass! I heard rustling as I made my way down it, but you don't feel the same trepidation as you do in the long grass in Australia; anything that bites you here isn't likely to kill you. At the bottom, the grass now at chest height, I had a frog pond on my left, a creek straight ahead, and my VF app telling me to take an invisible path to the right! I forged on and came across a beaten down track, obviously made by other pilgrims in the same boat. Eventually, the grass now at head height, I found an 'official' VF way marker with the path much clearer ahead. It just shows you how important local land owner support for the VF can be as I came across another section of the path, later on, which had been nicely mown. Anyway, I made it to Villeret safe and sound, and to my delight, I am sleeping in a teenie, tiny house tonight - my very first. My hosts will be delivering my evening meal and breakfast for tomorrow shortly: heaven! As you can see, I visited a lot of what they call 1/2 timbered churches today - all historical monuments.Read more

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    Day 33 - Villeret to Dolancourt

    May 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    It was a hard day walking today. I couldn't get to sleep last night, and I was really drained today - no energy. In addition, I was entirely off Path due to accommodation issues; all of my own making. Today, I walked on the D2, D69, D400, D396 (mostly), D619, and ended on the D44a. The traffic wasn't heavy, but there were a lot of trucks. I came across a very cute street library in a bus shelter and what appeared to be a Roman style, public bath house in a place called Hampigny! I also walked past two darling little 'shelters', both with fireplaces inside (nothing else). I'm in a really lovely place tonight, a Spa, and am looking forward to a good meal and a very good night's sleep. The river is l'AubeRead more

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    Day 34 - Dolancourt to Clairvaux

    May 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    OMG! What an amazing day! I rejoined the Path both literally and figuratively. Most of the walking was up and down what I think could be described as undulating hills. There were some serious ascents and decents. The highlight of which was the ascent up Chemin du Saint Germain (St. Germain's path) out of Bar sur Aube - which, by the way, is an incredibly beautiful city and somewhere I could spend a lot more time. I've done something to my right ankle! I'm just hoping that it will be fine in the morning. The day peaked, to be my best day here, when I got to Clairvaux. The Abbey here was founded by Saint Bernard in 1115, taken from the monks as part of the French Revolution, made a prison by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1808, I think, and is now a maximum security prison for 10, possibly less, prisoners (the guide wasn't 100% sure). It will close as such at the end of this year. For the very modest sum of €9.50, I got a guided tour of many of the old buildings (including one of the original restored medieval buildings), no photography allowed, with just one other person, a Dutch woman, in English! It made my day! The tour was supposed to end at 5:30, but we didn't finish until around 6 pm as we had so many questions. Like, did you know that until 1905 the law in France made it compulsory for everyone to attend church on Sunday and that capital punishment was not stopped until 1981 (the last execution was conducted in 1977)? Final observation: all vines in Champagne are planted on slopes. It must be a drainage thing.Read more

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    Day 35 - Clairvaux to Chateauvillain

    May 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Another beautiful sunny day with a lot of climbing and only a little coming down. I think the Roman 'style' bathhouse actually was one as I have come across a few more; one at Baroville yesterday (all barred up, no access), two at Cirfontaine-en-Azois (another very small place with a large name), one at Aizanville (the prettiest: photo included), and one just out side of Marmesse (the cleanest and therfore the most tempting: photo included). When I got to Orges, the map for the last 5.5 km of my walk would not load in the VF app (I still can't get it to load)! I wasted a lot of time and phone charge trying to fix it, eventually gave up and relied on the way markers and my map reading skills to get me to Chateauvillain. I'll have to do the same tomorrow. Tonight, I have a genuine complaint: the only accommodation I could get was an apartment. "Ok," I think, I'll make good use of the washing machine - there isn't one! And, to add insult to injury, there is no hot water! Last note: that man on the bike is the only person I saw, and spoke to on the path today.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Day 36 - Chateauvillain to Villiers sur

    May 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A big day all around. Most of the walking was in or next to trees, interspersed with long stretches of walking in wide open spaces dominated by agriculture. I successfully navigated the 14.5 km without a map, assisted by the occasional way marker and my recently acquired digital map reading skills! I had a heart stopping encounter today; I was walking on a narrow, damp, wooded trail, and I saw an animal glowing in a patch of sun on the path ahead. Was it a cat? A cat without a tail? Then I saw the unmistakable swish of a tiny curly tail - it was a piglet! My first thought was, "Oh no, where's the mother," and I started to sing really loudly (a technique I picked up in the US to let bears know you are in the area so they can avoid you). It seemed to work as the piglet left the path. But no, when I got closer, it was just off the path with a second piglet. They seemed agitated, but I paused to take some photos all the while keeping an eye out for the mother. When I stepped forward, they ran off. Then I saw her, staring straight at me! I broke eye contact immediately (no pausing for a photo this time - that image is burnt into my brain). I got away as quickly, quietly, and calmly as I could, all the while scanning the area for any other pigs and looking back from time to time to make sure she hadn't decided to follow me. About 2 km further on, through some twists and turns and having seen my fourth deer (I saw my third yesterday, just outside of Clairvaux), I stopped on a, now, well-defined track to reflect on how rare an experience that was for someone like me. However, I don't want a repeat - that was the first time I have ever felt in any danger during my time here. Other things to report include seeing more remnants of France's Roman past and having an unfenced, unchained dog come at me (not a problem really, the tail was wagging so I knew I could ignore him). The box is a hunting post.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Day 37 - rest day (Villiers sur Suize)

    May 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I'm having a very quiet day today. My left thigh mounted some sort of a protest yesterday morning, and so I'm resting both legs as much as possible. I'd had some serious misgivings about this location (off Path) and the hotel here. All of which have proven to be totally unfounded. The room is spacious and comfortable, the shower excellent (the place at Chateauvillain had no hot water), and my meal last night was delicious (breakfast was good, too). A gaggle of geese came up to the restaurant last night to be fed - it must be a regular thing - they made such a racket, it was very cute and hilarious. I've managed to book my accommodation up until my next rest day, and I've managed to stay on the Path with one minor exception - so I'm feeling pretty good about that. Oh, and the Roman bath here is the deepest one I've seen so far.Read more

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    Day 38 - Villiers sur Suize to Langres

    May 28, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A short section of forest walking, a walk beside the Reservoir de la Mouche, and some long stretches of rural, dirt, roads (of various qualities) broke up a day of roadside walking on the "D", minor, roads. I saw what could have been a very large ferret run across the road ahead of me this morning and more evidence of France's Roman past. To get into Langres, you have to sharply decent 450m, and then climb the same! P.S. those bed warmers were in the breakfast room at the hotel in Villiers sur Suize. Oh, and I meant to add that I have just realised that I have passed my halfway point! My guidebook says that the walk to Grand Saint Bernard Pass is 1220.7 km, and I passed the 611 km mark before Lentilles. At Langres, I am 787 km from Canterbury and now have just 434 km to go!Read more

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    Day 39 - Langres to Grandchamp

    May 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The steep ascent into Langres, on the back of 30+ km, took everything out of me yesterday. But I woke renewed and refreshed this morning. Now, I'm cross and have to vent. I've walked through a large number of residential communities here in France. They all have a church and a Mairie (local government). Some have a bakery (only sells bread), and bigger places might have a Tabac (a bar where you can buy coffee, maybe a meal, tabaco products and lottery tickets, etc.) If you are really lucky, there will be an Epiceries (groceries). But they don't usually open before 10 am, are closed between 12 - 4 pm, are usually closed on Wednesday and the weekend. As you can imagine, I've really struggled to ensure I have something to eat as I'm walking during the day. All I need is some fruit and cheese; when I can get it. So, when I saw a supermarket on my map as I was walking today, I thought it would be worth the diversion. I get there; CLOSED. Yet another public holiday! The fourth this month! I now have one apple and some nuts to tide me over until I find the next source of food. I walked 38 km today - 8 of which was a total waste. On a side note: I have a whole new respect for King Henry IV! The amount of land that man controlled is seriously impressive. Oh, I got a brief stint of canal walking (Canal Entre Champagne et Bourgogne), I walked the entire length, and more, of the Lac de la Liez, a lake, some lovely forest walking and the usual country lanes and minor roads. P.S. I found out that the public holiday is for Pinkster (Pentecost), celebrated 6 weeks after Easter!Read more

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    Day 40 - Grandchamp to Champlitte

    May 30, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After all my moaning and complaining; today was a perfect pilgrim day. As Bruce will say, along with many others, "The Camino provides." My accommodation last night was very special; a warm, welcoming and interesting host (Rene); excellent food; comfy bed; etc. - exactly what I needed. The walking today was pleasant and under 20 km! I saw my largest Roman bath to date, in Leffond, and tried to capture the white flowers blooming in the water plants in the Le Salon river. Along the Path, I met up with a young Italian woman, whom I'd met briefly yesterday, who finished up her work in the UK and is walking home via the Via Francigena! We separated, as she'd had a tough night camping and was taking a shortcut. That was just as well, as her pace far exceeds mine 😄. Further along, as I left the church in Leffond, a very nice woman approached me, and we had a lovely chat. Then, as I was leaving Leffond, a group of people called out to me and offered me a drink. My first instinct is to say "no thank you", BUT, as a pilgrim, I need to be open to all experiences, so I said, "Yes, please." Low and behold, there was another pilgrim with them, a Brit, they had also invited in as he was walking past! I spent the next hour and a half having a really lovely time chatting and drinking a couple of beers. As an Australian, I felt that obligation, LOL. Finally, Champlitte is beautiful, and the large chalet is now a museum. P.S. I should have mentioned that the supermarket here is open, and I've got my supplies for the next couple of days!!!!!!!Read more

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    Day 41 - Champlitte to Dampierre sur Sal

    May 31, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The collywobbles or the hebejebes that I've been experiencing seem to have past. According to my Garmin watch, I had my very first good nights sleep last night since I started this journey. It was another short day of under 20 km, on a very warm day with barely a cloud in the sky along minor roads and country lanes. There was not a great deal of shade to be had, but a really lovely breeze/wind to cool me down. I'm spending the night at the same location as three other VF pilgrims, the Italian woman (photo included), the Brit I met yesterday, and one other fellow whom I have not met yet (Hans from Belgium). They are all setting up tents in the garden, and I'm in a room. I am grateful 🙏. I tried to capture the fish in Le Salon, and the brilliant royal blue dragon flies, but you will have to look very closely to see them in the photos.Read more

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    Day 42 - Dampierre sur Salon to Bucey le

    June 1, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    A big walk today; 38 km. The morning walk was very pleasant. Through a small forest, beside la Saone river, where I saw a swan and some cygnets, and the Derivation de Savoyeux canal. The afternoon was almost a repeat of yesterday; mostly minor roads, rural lane ways, and paths. It was a very warm, cloudless day, and the occasional patches of shade and cooling breeze were very much appreciated.Read more

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    Day 43 - Bucey les Gy to Besancon

    June 2, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Another beautiful sunny day and another long walk of 34 km. There was a lot more shade to be had on the Path, and that was a relief. I had a deer run ahead of me on a track with a rock wall on one side and a steep drop on the other (poor thing, I obviously gave it a fright), my 5th sighting so far, and this was very close. And, yesterday, I saw something that could have been a muskrat (considered a pest here) just on the other side of the fence in a field. Besancon is very different from every other French city I have visited. It is very modern and fresh and appears to be a university town.Read more

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    Day 44 - rest day (Besancon)

    June 3, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I booked my first Swiss accommodation today. I will be in Switzerland on 08/06/2023. Somehow, I am seven days ahead of the schedule I created before I left Australia! My guidebook says that I am 931 km from Canterbury. This means that I have 287 km to go to get to Grand Saint Bernard Pass. Besancon is lovely, a really nice balance of old and new. It lies on Le Doubs river and is surrounded by massive stone walls. So far, during my church visits, I've gatecrashed a Baptism and a wedding; today, I gatecrashed alter boy training.Read more

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