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Via Francigena - part 3
  • Carmel Carlsen
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  • Carmel Carlsen

Via Francigena - part 3

This is the last leg of the Via Francigena - also known as the Sud. It runs from Rome to Santa Maria di Leuca. En savoir plus
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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2
    2444Do you see the witches broom?6The fateful underpass8I got muddyThe makeshift signsThe town walls a Alife

    Day 16: Roccaromana to Alife

    11 avril, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today was a real adventure - the Way (21.16 km) can really surprise you! It started off well enough, the climb out of Roccaromana was difficult and very much worth the effort. The view from the restored Norman Tower at the top was spectacular. As I walked into the small village of Baia e Latina I was offered water by a man tending his garden and my coffee was paid for by a nice man in the Cafe. Walking through Dragoni, was where things took a turn! I was following the VF signs when I realised I should have made a left turn, according to my map, so, I retraced my steps and made the turn. But, there was a very big dog in the middle of the narrow laneway so I thought I'd try following the signs. At the next intersection there was no signs to indicate the Way, so I walked down the road running parallel to the road (a main road) on my map and then rejoined the road, which was now dirt, which my map had told me to take. The trouble began at the highway underpass, it was a quagmire, and I sunk into the mud mid calf. I had to grab the vegetation on the side to pull myself out. That resulted in me getting seriously stung by nettles on my left hand and arm (through my shirt) and both of my bare legs - even after my shower I continue to feel the tingles! Not long after that, a path appeared, which seemed to be "official" if a little over grown. Fair enough, I thought, there are not many pilgrims, so I continued on my way. That path abruptly ended at the bank of the Volturno river and I literally had to bush bash my way through the trees and the undergrowth, pushing myself through a gap in a chained fence to get to the roadway and bridge to cross the river! The only VF signs I saw after that were obviously old and makeshift (see the photo), but, what else could I do, I had to follow my map? And, the really weird thing is that, even though I've had a good walk around Alife, I have not seen one single VF sign or any indication that I am on the Path - weird!
    P.S. four little dogs ran out at me and tried to chase me up the street as I was approaching Alife.    En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2Amazing bench in Teano
    A Roman bridgeA new VF signA medieval castle in RiardoChurch of Saint Annunziata8On the wall of a building in RoccaromanaI have a few high climbs ahead of me

    Day 15: Teano to Roccaromana

    10 avril, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The morning was a misty, the sun soon came out, it became quite warm (thankfully the shade gave some relief), and the Way (24.63 km) was very pleasant today. I should have ended the stage on the other side of the mountain, but I couldn't get any accommodation at Statigliano. Which was just as well, as I am extremely tired today and will tackle the climb first thing tomorrow morning. I saw a black squirrel running up a tree during the first part of the walk, but was not quick enough to get a shot. However, I was lucky enough to get a photo of a hedgehog this afternoon (my very first). The only restaurant available tonight (Casa Matilde) is quite a walk away (in another village), through small rural lanes, so, as there is a kitchen in this B&B, I'm going to see if I can prepare my own evening meal. The B&B has a copy of Sandy Brown and Nicole Bukaty's VF guide; I've added some images.
    P. S. I went to the restaurant and the food was fantastic and the host, and other guests at the tables, were really lovely. Though, a second person told me I don't talk like an Australian!I'm glad I went there, even though I had to walk home in the dark. Also, a shout out to the sun, my clothes dried very quickly in the sun this afternoon.
    Addendum: four little dogs came at my on a small country, dirt, lane not long after I had left Teano.    En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Leaving Sessa Aurunca
    Looking back at Sessa Aurunca4Artwork in CorbaraArtwork in CorbaraArtwork in Corbara24The Big BenchA nice shelter for pilgrimsAnother gum tree8The Roman road42The ceiling in the church of Saint Francis

    Day 14: Sessa Aurunca to Teano

    9 avril, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Another terrific walking day - the sun was shinning and the sky a beautiful blue. The Way (17.02 km) was mostly on dirt roads and, when sealed, on minor back roads or the rocks of an ancient Roman roadway. There was some mud, but nothing impassable and I walked through a lot of woodland - something that always makes me feel good. The path approaching Teano had a Grande Panchina (Big Bench #350 - I also saw one outside of Albano Laziale after I'd left Castel Gandolfo; I didn't know they were a thing then). At the big bench, there was a book to sign for the VFS and I saw that so far in April, what's when the book started, there has been about one pilgrim a day. And, few kilometers out of Teano a group of three, one of whom was a priest, stopped their car and asked me if he could take a video of me walking on the sacred trail (on the Roman stones). Of course I agreed and imagine that I will appear in his next presentation! Tonight I have a wonderful room and my host has taken my walking uniform home to wash it all for me - what a wonderful gift.En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2The Burbon suspension bridge
    A herd of goats crossing the middle bridge, which was closed to carsThe amphitheater and ruinsOne boarThe boarsGarigliano river2Church of the assumption4Amazing tiles in the cathedral2

    Day 13: Minturno to Sessa Aurunca

    8 avril, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Minturno turned out to be a bit of a dark horse; immediately within the vicinity of my accommodation was a Roman acqeduct (which is now a walkway - I wish I had had the time to walk it), a perfectly manicured WWII Commonwealth War Graves site (with 2049 graves), a Roman amphitheater and accompanying ruins, and Italy's first suspension bridge - paid for by the Burbons in 1832! The Way today (26.48 km) continued inland and took me through many, many back roads, mostly unsealed, and was extremely pleasant. The Way now will cross over to the other side of Italy. I moved out of the Lazio region into the Campania region. The biggest excitement of the day was seeing two wild boars! The photos aren't great, but I wasn't going to hang around for the perfect shot. I had a lot of encounters with dogs today, almost all of them entirely harmless, but, of course, the one that sticks with me was the only full on attack as I was walking through a small village (Gupo)! Fortunately, a man intervened and put a stop to it. I'm trying to look on the bright side and focus on the lack of any actual harm and the fact that most of the free range dogs, and it does seem there are lots of them, are not a problem. I saw a lot of lizards today and even some frogs. I'm sitting in a bar, with my Aperol Spitz, as the WiFi is out, due to bad wind apparently, in my accommodation.En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Leaving Formia
    226Best coffee so far3Another reminder of homeLooking back toward Gaeta and Formia2Flotsom and jetsom! A sign says "no swimming"Garigliano riverCircondariale canal, feeding into the river and where I saw the fishThe old and new bridges - three in all2

    Day 12: Formia to Minturno

    7 avril, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I began the day with a spring in my step, humming a tune, and feeling that all was right with the world. The rest day made all the difference and being able to drift off to sleep without any aches and pains the night before was a genuine blessing. The Way (20.7 km) was on sealed roads and mostly flat as it went along the coastline. I had two great coffees today - the second was the first properly hot latte I've had this time around in Italy. The coastline, with the mountains behind, is very pretty and the two long sections of beachfront I walked along (at Gianola and Marina di Minturno) had full length promenades and were bustling with people, with and without dogs. Again, I felt a little out of place with my poles, backpack and hiking clothes (have you seen my sun hat?) - I do get some side eyes! I actually saw someone in the water even though it was pretty cloudy and I'm sure the water is freezing. Toward the end, the Way left the coastline to follow the Garigliano river. Fauna today: turkeys, tadpoles, and fish. The VFS sign I came across as I arrived in Minturno says Roma is 215.4 km away and I only have 723 km to go!En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    22Amazing work in marble in the church2Note the dog in the background and the tables are upstairs!The old town wallsSome Roman baths2My bathroom is directly above the arch

    Day 11: Formia - rest day

    6 avril, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Another beautiful sunny day. I really don't have anything to report and very few photos. I had a lovely meal last night and a nice sleep in. My greatest accomplishment today was getting a stamp from the museum and organizing my accommodation for the next ten days! I spent most of the day quietly. Believe it or not, I had McDonald's for lunch - they even do McCafe here!En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    My first glimpse of the ocean this morning
    12Figs?6My favorite two strokeThe narrow roadway2The beach at Gaeta3Gumnuts?62A naval ship in the dockGum treesThe beach at Formia21Another brilliant crochet spectacleMolar tower2

    Day 10: Itri to Formia

    5 avril, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    I woke this morning to two small blood spots, around shoulder height, on my sheets! I'm trying not to think about bed bugs - but what else could have caused them? The day promised to be warm and it was. The sky was a perfect blue and there was a gentle breeze. The day started with church bells ringing, I assume for Easter Sunday as I made my, expected, climb out of the city. And, the Way (25 km all up) began through back rural roads as it made its way toward the coastline. About 10 km out of Formia the Way wound its way down to the seaside, via a very narrow and popular (with cars) road, and I was able to get a cappuccino at a beachside Cafe before midday - my very first takeaway coffee in Italy. I felt very much out of place as I walked along the promenade at Gaeta; everyone was in their good clothes and looked very stylish. I believe I saw some planted Australian flowers along the promenade (possibly gumnuts) and even some gum trees as I headed out of the city. My accommodation mucked me around and I had to sit on a doorstep for two hours before I could get in! Luckily, tomorrow is my rest day - I thought it best to stay in a tourist area on a public holiday.
    P.S. the olive oil I'm eating tonight comes from Terracina!    En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2The morning sun on Saint Peter's churchI love crochet artFosso Saint AndreaBack on Appia Antica44What's left of the temple to ApolloCastello Medioevale di Itri2

    Day 9: Fondi to Itri

    4 avril, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I had the privilege last night to witness a religious parade through Fondi - complete with a draped cross, three statues, a band, a priest leading the prayers, and a very large procession of people. I felt so lucky to have been there. Today was the perfect walking day: sunny, warm, a little roadside walking (mostly alongside minor roads), along a "ditch" (Fosso), and short (16.65 km). I saw a lot of bicycles and even met an Italian man who had been born in Sydney: Edmondo. I joined the Appia Antica yet again, this section was built to join Fondi and Itri in the 4th century BCE, and saw the remains of a temple to Apollo on that ancient road. I made sure I had a proper breakfast before I left this morning as it occurred to me that perhaps two bananas for breakfast the day before may have hindered my performance on the two climbs yesterday.En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Leaving Terracina
    264Lake Fondi6The goats22The second rocky path42San Biago canalA bad shot of a turtle/tortoiseBeautiful clear water6Lovely stone streets in Fondi

    Day 8: Terracina to Fondi

    3 avril, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The Way (24.7 km) turned inland, but not before I got some awesome views of the coastline. The first gated path, a rough, rocky and steep track, appropriately contained goats and the second gated path, even steeper and rockier only provided bells (animals nearby), but no actual animal sightings. By the time I reached the peak of the second gated path, I was completely shattered, and by the time I got to the bottom, I was totally done in! The problem with that was I still had about another 15 km to go! On a high note though, when I got to the bottom, a small boy, who was walking with his father, kept shouting excitedly "pellegrina", "pelligrina", and my polls saved me - I would not have managed without them. The rest of the Way was along the roadside, which, I have to confess, was about all I could manage. I had a large dog, who may have been a stray, follow me and walk in parallel with me for about 500 meters. Thankfully, a white van distracted him and he chased the van up the road and I never saw him again! On the side of the road were olive and orange groves and I saw a turtle/tortoise (it was in the canal by the side of the road) and lots of lizards and frogs. It's Good Friday, not that you'd know it - all the shops were open, so I have to assume it is not a public holiday. Fondi is a lovely place, with the most beautiful stone streets.En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Amaseno river
    121Fosso Pedicato2There are fish in this photo4A bad photo of a huge fish22The fence I straddled1116Traces of Via Appia AnticaRuins on the old townThe cathedral2

    Day 7: Fossanova to Terracina

    2 avril, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today I left the mountains and headed toward the sea. I'm excited to see my first Italian beach. The Way (22.9 km) was entirely flat and with only about 1 km that was not along the roadside (my poor little feet)! It began along the Amaseno river and then I walked across to the Fosso (which directly translates as "ditch") Pedicato, after that the path criss-crossed a disused railway line to bring me into Terracina, where I rejoined the Via Appia Antica (which I had traveled along to leave Rome) to enter the town. Naturally, there was a climb to get into the old city. I saw the most enormous fish inside the Pedicato and I'm sad that the photos are not that good. Along the unsealed section, another gated path, I encountered a group of horses - luckily, there was no problem keeping out of their way and, taking the wrong path option meant that I made a precarious climb over a rickety fence at the end - only to discover the other exit, hidden from me, was a simple latch! The beach was lovely, it was strewn with tiny pink and yellow flowers.En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Sezze
    22A very narrow track for cows4The canalBeautiful stained glass at PrinervoThe Amaseno river2PrivernoFossanova

    Day 6: Sezze to Fossanova

    1 avril, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    So far every morning has come with a bit of a heart starter, usually in the form of a steep walk out of town. Today's walk did require a climb when leaving the town, but the heart starter came with a group of cows (using the word herd seems a bit of a stretch) who were blocking my path (on a gated trail which appeared to be called "Cinderella") and would not go to the side (admittedly steep), so I had to push them forward by swinging my poles up and down and calling out "move along", "come on girls", and "keep moving". I wasn't too worried until I saw the calves - even the most docile cow will charge anyone who upsets their baby. They got up a run and disappeared ahead of me. Luckily, they had bells on, so I always knew where they were along the track, which got quite narrow in places. Thankfully, all ended well, I'd had visions of us all stuck at the exit gate together, but the track finally widened and I was able to press on without them. The rest of the Way (23.87 km) was ideal: minimal roadside walking, along nice unsealed roads, beside a canal (Canale Allacciante lavone Amasenso) - where I did seem a coypu (but wasn't quick enough to take a photo) - and along the Amaseno river. One funny thing that happened last night: the owner of the restaurant, when I told him I was Australian, told me I didn't talk like one, and, in Rome, a waiter told me I spoke good English for an American. LOLEn savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2Sermoneta
    4A donkey on top of the hill watching me2A thoughtfully placed bench, of which I made useSezze2I love a fully dressed statue2My rooftop balcony2

    Day 5: Sermoneta to Sezze

    31 mars, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I had a wonderful breakfast of homemade marmalade, a speciality of the house - it was chock full of rind and skin - delicious. After a false start when I had to return, after walking over a kilometer, to collect my warm merino hat, I finally left Sermoneta around 8 am. The walk today was short (14.01 km) and extremely pleasant. There were very few sealed roads, there was some mud - only small patches were problematic - and lots of wonderful scenery. I got my first stamp from the cathedral at Sezze (Santa Maria) since the Vatican; from a very friendly nun who was ironing in what I imagine was the vestry - I saw an open door at the side of the altar and I walked through it! I have a whole house to myself tonight and I'm literally sitting on the roof, overlooking the plains below, with the ocean in the distance, as I write this post. I'm treating today as my rest day, as the next few days are all listed as "hard" and don't intend to take a rest day until after Easter. Oh, and a small dog had a serious go at me ( tail NOT wagging and no owner in sight) just as I came up to Sezze!En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    As I left Cori. No water in the waterway
    2Cori from a distance2Fantastic Easter egg outside the church in Norma. The flowers are crochet4Sermoneta in the distance2Pedoni/pedestrians2Valcisciolo abbeyMy first poppy4I missed the entrance to this overgrown path - no surpriseThe tower with the cathedral

    Day 4: Cori to Sermoneta

    30 mars, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    There was some drama last night when I discovered that one of my ear buds was missing. Thankfully, I retraced my steps through the narrow cobblestone lane from the restaurant where I had enjoyed the sausage and truffle pasta and may have eaten rabbit, by mistake (😬), for my main, and there it was on the ground mercifully not run over by a car! I will be a lot more careful with them in future - I need them. Today was all roadside walking (20.93 km, with no earbud use at all), except for the rough stoney path down from Norma and the rough rocky path up to Sermoneta! I met my first VFS pilgrim today, he was backtracking from Sermoneta and expects for us to see each other again on the path. I again walked through olive groves and I saw chickens, turkeys, geese, cattle (and calves), horses (one foal) and even some donkeys! But, my morning was dominated by barking dogs - one burst out of their driveway to chase a car and, thankfully, only barked at me. I've noticed a lot of dog owners don't use leads - I'm not exactly happy with that, as you can imagine. Oh, and I got kicked out of the cathedral when I arrived - the door was open but a local woman told me it was closed! My final blessing for the evening: my apartment has a washing machine, and, yes, I've washed everything!En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    Velletri as I left
    3For two days in a row now, I have come across young birds!22My first porcupine quillLake GiulianelloThe first bench on the left is where I found the phone2241My first VF Sud signWow, a temple!The view from my balcony

    Day 3: Velletri to Cori

    29 mars, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    An eventful day for a lot of very small reasons. The Way was on too many sealed roads (not great for my feet) but was a pleasant walk (21.71 km) through cultivated land, beside another lake (lake Giulianello - where I saw my first porcupine quills) and among huge olive groves. At 5 am I had woken to discover, for the very first time in my walking experience, that none of my clothes had dried overnight! I cranked up the air-conditioning to 31 °C, put them under the fan (set to max) and they where dry within about 90 minutes - phew! As I arrived at the lake, I met a man who has done two Caminos in Spain. Then, after I had left the lake, I decided to sit on a bench where someone had left their phone! I asked everyone I saw if it was theirs and finally a nice man took it from me. Lo and behold, about five minutes later a push bike rider came by asking about a " telephono" - owner and phone where then reunited. I'm staying in a beautiful apartment tonight, with lovely views from the balcony and I have to give a shout out to the amazing meal I ate last night: Capese salad (buffalo mozzarella with tomato - one of my all time favourite dishes) and a grilled chicken salad - what a treat. Oh, and I had a very satisfying portion of margarita pizza for lunch - it was straight from the pan and still lovely warm from the oven.En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2Lake AlbanoCastel Gandolfo244Tempest Fountain. What crystal clear water2Lake NemiNemi town

    Day 2: Castel Gandolfo to Velletri

    28 mars, Italie ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    The morning was quite crisp - 5° C, the sky was blue and the sun promised to be warm. I was on my way by 7 am and was again reminded why I love Italy; I got a coffee and some fresh fruit before I left Castel Gandolfo. The Path today was shorter (25.03 km) and took me around two lakes, over two mountains and through woodlands. I also got some terrific views of the surrounding region when I was up high. There was some mud, but nothing serious (certainly not French level mud). I saw a lot of beautiful flowers (hence all the photos) and am now sitting in the garden of my accommodation, freshly showered, with the afternoon sun on my back. My lovely host brought me out a pot of tea and three very sweet, and welcome, treats! Life is very good.En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    2
    VittorianoThe ForumThe Forum of NervaMy first VF sign22Saint Tarcisius. The patron Saint of alter boysThe church of Saint Sebastian2Lake Albano. Below Castel Gandolfo

    Day 1: Rome to Castel Gandolfo

    27 mars, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    It was a great first day of walking. A little longer than I would have liked (31.19km), but very enjoyable all the same, even though it ended with a reasonably demanding climb - oh, Italy, you never fail to deliver. The weather was on the cool side, especially in the morning and at the end of the day - but, I'm not complaining. I was lucky enough to catch up to the only Priest in Saint Peter's Square at 8 am to receive a Pilgrims blessing (he didn't seem to be too happy, but performed his duties well, and in English). The exit from Rome was a bit of a sightseeing tour; I walked past the many of the great tourist spots: Castel San Angelo, Vittoriano, the Forum and the Colosseum. I was surprised to see my first Via Francigena sign before I left the city. The rest of the walk was pretty much a straight line on the ancient Roman road, the Via Appia Antica, which was littered with ancient ruins. My hatred of cobblestones has not diminished, so I was very grateful for the path on the side of the road, which meant I didn't have to walk on the stones. I'm feeling full of joy tonight and so grateful and happy that I am here. My accommodation tonight is outstanding. I'm a little shocked, there is a very large and well behaved dog in the very nice restaurant I'm eating at tonight!En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    The view from my accommodation
    3Vatican railway station52The table decorations remind me of wattle22My little room (the one with the French doors)

    Day 0: Rome

    26 mars, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    I landed in Rome this morning around 7:30 am and it took some time to get out of the airport as we had to be bused across the tarmac to a passport check point! I don't know about anyone else, but I am always so grateful and relieved to see my bag on the luggage conveyor belt. I took the bus from the airport to the Vatican (€9) and made my way straight to my accommodation. I waited for my room to be ready and around midday sorted myself out and had a very welcome shower. The accommodation is directly across from the imposing Vatican walls, I'm loving it. After I'd finally sorted my backpack out, I set out exploring. Im afraid to say the weather itself wasn't all that welcoming, it has rained on and off all day - at one point, it hailed! This put a bit of a dampener on my plans as I restricted myself to a circut of the Vatican perimeter. I popped into the pilgrim office outside Saint Peter's Square and the Vatican pilgrim counter to get some stamps for my credentials. I ended my day with my first, of many more to come, Aperol Spitz's, some buffalo mozzarella and scampi risotto.En savoir plus

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen

    Second stop: Chicago

    25 mars, États Unis ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I slept most of the four hour flight from LAX to O'Hare; it was easy as everyone had their windows shutters closed. Next stop Rome!
    P.S. I got a latte in the airport and it's drinkable (with sugar).

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    5

    Heading out

    25 mars, Australie ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    I'm at the airport, I've checked in my backpack (weight: 6.7 kg), passed security and am now sitting at my gate. Im not too excited yet as I have a two hour wait ahead of me. In case I don't get a chance at my next destination, I'll be flying to Los Angeles, then onto Chicago, and then onto Rome.En savoir plus

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    Début du voyage
    25 mars 2026