Europe 2019

July - September 2019
This trip has been in the making for several years, with the stars finally aligning to make it possible, and the first payment made 18 months ago. Read more
  • 46footprints
  • 9countries
  • 57days
  • 236photos
  • 0videos
  • 37.5kkilometers
  • 23.5kkilometers
  • Day 29

    Notre Dame d'Amiens

    August 19, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Paris is not the only city in France to have a Notre Dame cathedral. I've been told there are over a hundred of them. Whilst it is the most famous of them all, the one in Paris is not the biggest, even before the fire.

    Notre Dame Cathedral in Amiens is big, REALLY BIG, in fact, the biggest in France. It is about twice the size by volume as the one in Paris. It dominates the skyline from way out of town.

    Over summer, there is a light show projected onto the face of the cathedral, firstly an artistic exhibition, then a static display putting colour into each and every feature of the cathedral. It is an awesome display.
    Read more

  • Day 30

    World War 1 battlefields.

    August 20, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The battlefields of WW1 got very close to Amiens which was a city Germany wanted to conquer. The newly formed Australian Army was sent to that region, among others a little further along the front, to help defend Amiens.

    Our army in Europe consisted completely of volunteer civilians because our constitution of the time, prepared by our British rulers, forbade our real army from fighting on foreign soil so could not contribute when the mother country called for help from its Empire to fight the Germans.

    Within days of arriving in France midway through 1916, our inexperienced amateur army was thrown into combat by its British commanders, with a poorly planned attack on a very experienced, well prepared German army in the battle of Fromelles. This was my grandfather's initiation to combat, receiving a serious shell wound to the scalp the first day. That's about as close as you can get to having your service record stamped wounded in action instead of killed in action.

    Whilst gaining some ground that first day, one of the worst days in Australian army history, the next day they were quickly pushed back to where they started, making the brief attack a costly failure.

    In any case, the Germans were already planning to retreat their forces to the "impenetrable" Hindenburg Line.

    In 1918, after a change in power in Moscow, Germany was able to move troops from the Eastern front to the Western front for a new advance into France. The turning point came when Australian commander Lieutenant General John Monash devised an attack strategy to conquer Hamel in 90 minutes. Despite a set back of 20 minutes due to barbed wire not being properly destroyed by artillery, the objective was completed in 93 minutes, with minimal casualties and far more prisoners taken. This strategy became the model for 20th century warfare.

    John Monash was an engineer prior to the war with one of his projects being the construction of Melbourne's Outer Circle railway, better known to many of us by its current use as the Anniversary Trail from Fairfield to Oakleigh.

    After the war, he was given the task to build the Electricity Commission of Victoria, later renamed to the State Electricity Commission of Victoria.

    I worked for the SECV for 15 years from the late 70s, mostly in their head office called Monash House. I had no appreciation whatsoever of John Monash. It is only in the last couple of years that I have learned of his achievements for Australia, Victoria and Melbourne. I now consider him to be the most underrated person in Australian history.
    Read more

  • Day 32

    There is more Amiens than a Cathedral

    August 22, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Whilst it has a very big impact on the city, there is more to Amiens than the cathedral. The impact of the ever threatening WW1 battlefields on its doorstep is not forgotten, but life goes on.

    This is France so it obviously Amiens has many wonderful bread and pastries outlets. Some were getting used to my pitiful attempts to speak French. The conversations quickly deteriorate when they reply in French.

    In this fairly flat region, the River Somme meanders along. Much of this would have once been swamp land but has been drained by a network of small canals. There are les hortillonnages d'Amiens - the floating gardens of Amiens. The once swampy land has been converted to market gardens and flower gardens separated by a web of canals.

    A little further downstream there is residential and business area striped with canals to help the river through.
    Read more

  • Day 32

    Albert - a must-visit town.

    August 22, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Pronounced more like Albere rather than Uncle Albert, the brochure at the tourist information office claimed this to be a must visit town. I can only assume that the only tourists they where expecting were from nearby farms.

    We opted for a short day trip for our final day in Amiens. I have learned that you don't have to have a good reason to go to somewhere when travelling, just go there and enjoy the adventure. We chose Albert, a short train ride from Amiens. There weren't a lot of trains, the options for our return trip were 2pm or 4pm.

    The gardens were interesting with its streams and waterfalls interspersed with chook pens, geese and pigs. We found a lovely patisserie with superb eclairs.

    Of course they have their own Notre Dame- Basilique Notre-Dame de Brebières. This makes a great photo stop, party due to the Aussie flag flying at the attached War Museum but mostly because there wasn't much else to take pictures of.

    We were and truly all done in time for the 2pm train back to Amiens.
    Read more

  • Day 33

    Lyon - just not as expected

    August 23, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Our next stop is Lyon, with a change of trains in Paris, though opposite sides of Paris. The man in seat 61 (seat61.com) has every thing you need to know about getting from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon, the station in Paris for the train to Lyon, not to be confused with either of the Gares in Lyon which often pop up in searches for Gare de Lyon.The man has even done a video, so there are no surprises. We bought first class as the man suggested. For only a few euros extra, we got bigger, more comfortable seats with more legroom and easier luggage storage.

    Not surprising, our transfer across Paris went quite smoothly. The train across Paris was pretty crowded but probably quite normal for lunch time in Paris on a week day. We had allowed plenty of time so still plenty of time for a stress free lunch.

    We caught our TGV train from Gare de Lyon just a few hours after the main Ghostrider group caught theirs, though they went on to Avignon where we will catch up with them to start my first cycling tour in France.

    We arrived in Lyon on time and found our accommodation. We have a one bedroom apartment for our stay here. We didn't expect that the bedroom to also be the living room and only ever so slightly larger than the bed.

    We missed the bit about only stairway access to upper levels, something we try hard to avoid. But you get stairs sometimes getting in an out of stations so I can cope with that even with 2 suitcases. But 5 floors of fairly narrow spiral stairs is a bit more demanding. I don't know how the suitcases will make their way up.

    But at least we have a washing machine (hiding in the wardrobe), a microwave and a fridge so we can get real milk for a decent coffee at last, even if it is instant coffee. But better still, we also have a Nespresso for an even better coffee.

    It's going to be a very cosy time here, tripping over each other and everything else but, hey, we have coffee!
    Read more

  • Day 34

    Lyon - just as expected

    August 24, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Once out of our apartment, Lyon is just as expected - boulangeries, patisseries, brasseries, (the position of the i is important) and cathedrals, including, of course, a Notre Dame.

    Lyon's Notre Dame de Fourviere dominates the western skyline, perched high on a hill rising steeply from the River Saone, steep enough for a funicular railway. It makes a fabulous place from which to gaze over the City.Read more

  • Day 35

    Lyon - more just as expected

    August 25, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Exploring Fourviere - the part of Lyon on the western side of the River Saone, home to the Notre Dame de Fourviere Cathedral that dominates the Lyon skyline.

    Two funicular railway lines start side by side at the foot of the hill, one going to Notre Dame and the other to the Roman ruins. It was at the Roman Theatre I tried my best Friends, Romans Countrymen but struggled without any friends or Aussies an the Romans had come and gone.

    At the bottom of the hill is Lyon's other cathedral, the Cathedral de Lyon, aka Cathedrale de Saint Jean Baptiste.
    Read more

  • Day 36

    Lyon - expect the unexpected

    August 26, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I enjoy wandering around foreign cities just to see what's different from home. Even visiting a supermarket can be an adventure, finding things you have never heard of, not finding things you expected would be everywhere and labels in another language so you don't know what the heck it is.

    Some of the metro trains have no driver and some of the buses are trams with rubber wheels. Statues keep popping up anywhere and some buildings are not what they seem - the two walls of the building pictured here actually have no doors or windows, no ledges and no people, just some paint, except for my lovely wife being leered at by the Frenchman painted behind her.

    Lyon has numerous wall painting works of art scattered around the city. This is the first we have seen.
    Read more

  • Day 37

    Lyon - part two, Part Dieu

    August 27, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    No, Part Dieu does not mean part two. It is a part of Lyon, on the eastern side of the River Rhone. most famous to travellers for its railway station. Literally, it means For God. Time for us to explore this half of Lyon.

    Our main objective of the day is Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse - an indoor market (halls) established by Paul Bocuse. We arrived by electric bus, some sort of hybrid between a bus and a tram.

    The market has fresh fruit & veg, meat, fish, cheese, etc like most markets. What this has that is different to those at home are the range and shape of breads - very rare to see a rectangular loaf like ours, the cakes and pastries and, most importantly, the chocolates. It would be very easy not to fit through the door when you've finished here. I controlled myself very well, I don't want to sink the boat next week.

    As we headed down the street from Les Halles, we found a barber shop not too busy so this was to become the first time I have had my hair cut by someone with whom I don't share a common language. I can count at least to 10 in French so it shouldn't be too hard to get the message across regarding what number clippers to use, should it? Let's just say that I will save money on shampoo for the rest of the trip. The next day, while wandering through another part of town, we noticed several barber shops, all with more attractive barbers. It was almost worth another haircut, if only I had any hair left.

    As we travelled further east towards Part Dieu railway station, we reached a shopping centre more like Eastland at home and a supermarket more like Coles than the 7eleven look alike we've had to settle for lately. This Carrefour was more like Coles and Kmart combined.

    We finally reached the Part Dieu station to catch the Metro back. We be back here in a few days to catch our train to Avignon where a bicycle awaits.
    Read more