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South America ’23
  • Jamie Nicholson
  • Alex van de Velde
  • Jamie Nicholson
  • Alex van de Velde

South America ’23

Join us on an epic Sth American adventure! From tango nights in Buenos Aires to samba vibes in Rio, we'll desert-hop in Atacama, get high (altitude-wise) in La Paz, salsa through Colombia, and wrap up with sun-kissed LA. Ready for a wild ride? 🌎🌞🌵 Read more
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  • South America ’23
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    Valle del Cocora

    September 26, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Up in the Andes we visit this Cocora Valley. A beautiful spot to enjoy a walk in the clouds and admire the Quindian wax palm in it's full glory.

    This is usually a busy place, but our guide knew a quiet and easier route then most it. Such a peaceful beautiful walk through the clouds with horses, hummingbirds, tall palms, flowers.

    We even got to see a very rare sighting , apparently, of an Andean Condor. The largest flying bird in the world by combined measurement of weight and wingspan. Our guide said he's been to this spot 10000 times but only seen it a handful.

    Such a pretty and fun time walking around this area. I can understand why people spend days here with the different hikes around this park.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Salento and Tejo

    September 26, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Salento is another gorgeous town in this region and a similar style of painting the shops and houses. By the time we had a look around it was tourist central. But we managed to pick up a few small things.

    But before all of that, we got to play Tejo! Tejo is weirdly Colombia's national sport. Why weirdly? Because it's is a sport of throwing a heavy piece of metal at a board full of clay which has a central circle of small explosives that explode if you hit them correctly... All while drinking beer, because that is mandatory to play! Needless to say, we were not that great at it.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Medellin

    September 27, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    A trip from the airport that involves a 10km tunnel and a beautiful view of this incredible city at the end. Welcome to our next part of the adventure.

    What is the best way to start our time here. Get incredibly drunk from an overload of sweets and candies stuffed into a alcoholic slushy and then go jump in a ball pit. And when you have a penthouse apartment to enjoy, bring some drinks back to sip in the jacuzzi and watch the night lights twinkle across the city.

    For this part of the trip we will be joined by two Colombian friends, Juan and Estaban.

    Welcome to Medellin.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    ATVs

    September 28, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    One hand on the accelerator and one hand pinching myself as we zoom through the dirt roads in the mountains of Colombia on ATVs. Stopping off at lookouts over the farmland valleys below and even a fish farm hidden away in the forest.

    A super awesome experience!    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Towns of El Peñol and Guatape

    September 28, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Before we even got to the rock, we pass the two towns of is name. El Peñol and Guatape.

    El Peñol is an old town that was relocated from it's original position to where it exists today when the area was flooded after they installed the dam. Moving what they could, including the 2000 bodies in the cemetery to a new location. The church was rebuilt but instead of making it look original they made it look like it's own monolith.

    Guatape is sometimes referred to as the most colourful city in the world. Each building is it's own piece of art, houses painted by residents in bright colours. At the bottom of every building, by law now, are panel like installations called zocalos. These can be anything from images to a story or for places like the bakery or fruit store is what they make or sell.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    El Peñol de Guatape

    September 28, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    A monolith and the tip of an iceberg as most the remainder of this volcanic rock is deep underground.

    Apart from the impressiveness of it, the first thing you notice is the corset ribbon like weave of stairs through the centre. 740 of them that are steap and irregular while also at 2300 meters above sea level.

    Climbing, literally in some places, the view around the remainder of this area is impressive and uninhibited. The colours and view was just perfect, were stayed up there way too long admiring it.

    We rushed down the slippery and thin stairs to get ourselves in a helicopter. Getting a bird's eye view of the area and the rock itself.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Medellin Central Walk

    September 29, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    For today we planned to have a self explore around the city. Since Juan lives here in Medellin it was a bit easier to find the places we wanted to get to.

    But Alex and I started the morning with a very hardy breakfast, Bandeja Paisa. Which to me is the Latino version of an English big breakfast. Pork belly instead of bacon, arepas instead of toast, eggs, rice, a soup of beans instead of baked beans, avocado and plantain. It wasn't until I arrived in Colombia that I found out is not a breakfast at all, it's meant to be a lunch.

    Catching the metro train into the centre of the city was so smooth. Trains arrive every few minutes and you can travel up to half an hour on the train or cable car for half an hour for around AU$1.20.

    We walked through the street market before arriving at Plaza Botero. Another reminder of just how revered he was as an artist in this country. Filled with full size sculptures of his most famous pieces. Then we found ourselves in the Palace of Culture, which was quiet but very nice to walk around and see the art and other pieces as we headed up.

    Before we left, I knew from a YouTube video I watched that there was a special drink sold here with aphrodisiac properties that we just had to have a try of. Even though I'm sure it's against every rule the travel doctor told us not to do.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Parque Explora

    September 29, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Aquarium, planetarium, science centre, museum all mixed into one fun and playful space. Neither of the boys had been to an aquarium before and both were nature lovers, so it was fun to be able to see their excitement for this place as we went through it.

    The aquarium was really impressive considering it's size and no where near the ocean. It was great to see some types of fish I've never seen before myself. And it seems silly, but I was fascinated with a jelly fish display they had. Until I realised it wasn't jelly fish.

    The science centre was packed with school kids, but thankfully it was near lunch time so shortly after we arrived everyone had left. So we got to use all the experiments before we had to leave too.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Parque Arví

    September 29, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Parque Arví is a very large and established nature reserve to the north of Medellin. To get there, the easiest way is via, you guessed it, cable car. About a 40 minute ride up and along the top of the mountain to get there. This place is somewhere as a local you should be going to in the morning and spend all day walking around our hiking. But we got there in the afternoon so our choices were limited.

    Thankfully we had two Spanish speakers with us who must have put on the charm to one of the ladies there because she gave us a discount and let us into what seemed to be a closed route to explore. They were already setting up decorations for Halloween next month, so it was fun to see that. But also the rest of the hour or so walk was beautiful to enjoy and take our time to enjoy.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Pueblito Paisa - Little Paisa Town

    September 29, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    People from this region of Colombia call themselves Paisa, and very proudly. So it was very fitting to end our day of exploring this city by watching the sun set over the mountains and city in Little Paisa Town. A cute recreation of a typical Antioquian town (like the ones we saw to the south in the coffee region).Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Teatro Victoria Restaurant

    September 29, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Thankfully we came for the cocktails and not the service, because that was so slow. But it didn't stop us getting through all 8 signature cocktails on the menu.

    From this town of a decanter type thing, to pouring the cocktail over soon sugar to melt it into the drink, to a smokey drink and ofcourse there had to be fire too.. Is Colombia afterall. Eventually we got some food and it was tasty, but by that stage they had lost any tip.Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Jardin Coffee Farm

    September 30, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I'm not sure that I had met a real cowboy until I met the man who runs the coffee farm here at Cafe del Alto Jardin. He was a no nonsense to the point authority on coffee.

    But to get there was 5 hours of light torture. We had a lot of alcohol the night before and not a lot of sleep. So the for of us struggled enough with the windy mountain roads of the Antioquian countryside. But today the government had closed off three main roads making our driver try some alternative routes. These alternative routes took us to all parts of farm roads ending in dead ends asking the way. In 4WD mode most of the time as we go up and down these steep dirt tracks. But, eventually, we made it.

    Having a coffee before the lunch was served. He showed us this unique distil and syphon process and device that he uses for the coffee. Boiling the water on one side and sending the steam water over to the coffee on the other side before syphoning it back again to make the perfect coffee.

    Lunch was a very hearty home style stew with chicken and other meats. Very traditional and served with the normal sides expected here in South America of rice, avocado, salad and an arepa.

    Also learnt about the coffee farming process. Getting to pick the beans and then process them by removing the skin in the machine, drying process, roasting process too.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    That poor mule...

    September 30, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    While out at the coffee farm we did a horse riding experience too. Clip clopping through dirt roads along the mountain top led by our cowboy coffee expert on a seemingly uncontrollable horse.

    Thankfully mine was just hungry. Wanting to stop every few minutes to grab some more grass to chew on. I didn't blame him, it's a lot of effort to carry me around the whole time.

    I loved how the scenery changed, from farmland to a rainforest feel in some places. But the view out into the valley from the mountain top was beautiful. Looking down at the farmlands below, thinking about how many hours we were lost in the roads there that morning. Haha.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Narcos

    October 1, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Who was Pablo Emilio Escobar Gaviria? It's a good question. From humble beginnings, son of a farmer and a school teacher. Hustler, entrepreneur, family man, philanthropist, politician... Oh, and ofcourse one of the most infamous narco traffickers in history.

    Like it or not, his legacy is most likely imprinted into the cultural and historic moments of this country. A memory that Colombians won't be able to shake. But learning from and moving on from they certainly have.

    Medellin in the epicenter of his reign of terror. Here at the house of Robert Escobar, his brother, is a shrine to his memory. Pictures, quotes, cars, bikes, the original wave rider from James Bond (jetski). An original residence of Pablo, high on a hill so that he could overlook what was the only airport for the city at the time. Buying items in the gift store and getting the mostly blind and deaf brother of Pablo seemed dirty and strange to do. But as tourists it was something we couldn't leave without doing.

    There is not much left of La Catedral, the self made jail her designed and built for himself as a negotiation with the government at the time to prevent extradition to the USA. But as a f-u to the US authorities, taking a photo of himself wearing a Russian hat (because the cold war had just happened, a very expensive pull over he purchased in Italy a month before the photo, and also the latch on the gate door visibly open in the picture. Completely mocking everyone involved in his current situation.

    Moving from his neighbourhood where he was raised and lived, to his death site where you can decide if he was shot or committed suicide. To finally his grave. A grave where surrounded around was his enemies as well. Showing that in death, we are all equal.    Read more

  • South America ’23
    1

    Medellin Food Tour

    October 1, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I probably should have taken more pics of the food in this food tour. But i think what was exciting for us was just catching up with Erica, our tour guide from the Guatape tour who we had such a fun time with. It was so exciting to have her again to show us around for a few hours this area of Medellin (not technically Medellin but let's not get into that here).

    Everywhere in this amazing country is so lively and colourful and full of energy. Walking around the market streets we grabbed some bites to enjoy. Starting with an Arepa with cheese, you get an arepa with almost every meal here. This one in particular was buttery and soft.

    The next thing was basically a cheese ball with blackberry jam to have with it. This particular stall had one a record for coming the largest version of this.

    After that we had an empenada and a little chorizo which we had with some pineapple salsa which worked so well together.

    A night couldn't finish without some shots. The national drink here in Colombia is called Aguadiente. An aniseed type liquor that we were already very familiar with from our late nights chatting and jacuzzi.

    The Aguadiente made the boy's feet tap and hips swing, as they got up to show us how to move like a Latino.    Read more

  • South America ’23
    11

    Moravia - waste not want not

    October 2, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The adventure for this morning was too Moravia. A neighbourhood here in Medellin that has had an incredible transformation over a couple of generations.

    We sat with Marina, a lady who is the daughter of one of the founding families of this neighbourhood. She explained that her family was escaping the violence of Communa 13 nearby when she was 12 and moved to this location.

    But what was different about this area? It was a landfill site. And the people who started living here would wait for the waste trucks to arrive and dump their trash. The people would then sort through all the waste material and reuse and recycle everything. This was to build their homes here, materials to make things and sell, materials to trade with and even food that the meat processors didn't use.

    Eventually this landfill site became a community with houses and shops everywhere, built purely off the trash. Now it is a gardener's paradise. With plants and seeds grown from cuttings and bits that were thrown out. A football field that her father organised by protecting that area from people building in it for 24 hours a day. Establishing a place where the kids could play his favourite sport. Improved by a generous donation from a man who came into the area, adding lights and the fake grass in the field. He didn't know who the gentleman was who donated that until a short time later when he turned on the news to see the face of the man who helped the community - Pablo Escobar.

    We participated in an activity of making recycled paper. Shedding up some old paper we mixed it with some purple to make a nice piece of recycled paper.    Read more

  • South America ’23
    11

    Communa 13

    October 2, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    In 2007, Communa 13 was the place of a major confrontation between guerrillas, paramilitary and legal forces. The guerrillas moved over the top of the mountain into the city having the high ground and the military from the valley armed with black hawk helicopters and both sides possessing powerful assault rifles. By the end, in-between the two groups laid a lot of innocent dead. Trapped in their houses during the night of fighting, the thin walls and roofs did not offer any protection from the bullets.

    Now, this is a vibrant community again, reconstructed and turned around. The story of that battle told through detailed and provocative street art.

    This place needed more then the few hours we had to do it justice. But we enjoyed the view while we sipped our marijuana beers.    Read more

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    Bubble tent & goodbye Medellin

    October 3, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Our last night of the Medellin part of our trip was a little escape. To break up the two cities we were leaving and going to. We went out into the mountains to spend a night of privacy together. An incredible location, and with the storms moving in we watched the lightning in the sky was we laid in bed. Cooking our own breakfast and dinner on the bbq while Alex relaxed in the spa.

    It also have us time to reflect on what an incredible time we had in Medellin. Even just by itself the city and people were incredible. It's beautiful, vibrant, energetic. The people are warm and friendly and most of all happy. But the adventures we had here have been so memorable that we will cherish them in our minds and hearts forever. We smiled and laughed the entire time. And we owe most of that to our two friends Juan and Estaban for joining us here.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Cartagena

    October 4, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Literally slapped in the face with heat and humidity the moment we stepped off the plane. A reminder that we're not in the mountains anymore, welcome back to sea level for the first time in 20 days and welcome to the Carribbean town of Cartagena.

    Castillo de San Filipe de Barajas is a giant fort, not castle, that was used to protect this town many times from invading countries. Infact the only time it lost was suspected because of an insider job. The people were unhappy with the governer at the time and let the French take over.

    A very imposing structure that is filled with tunnels and traps and space for dozens of cannons from all sides.

    After that we explored the walled city. This part is heritage protected and was the main areas for the rich of colonial times. Protected by a high wall, the streets are narrow and stone, still with house and carriage filling them. Each corner and street telling a different story of the history of this city.

    Outside the walled part of the city we walked to the Getsemani neighbourhood. Which what they lack in wealthy houses they exceed in the wealth of culture and vibrancy. A very pretty area, especially say night with it alight with colour.

    I agree there are some beautiful pictures. But the hidden truth behind them is this city is uncomfortably hot. Way too hot.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Bazurto Market - "Have a Hog Day"

    October 5, 2023 in Colombia

    This morning's adventure took us to Bazurto Market and surrounds. Honestly it was an information overload on the history of this market from is original location, to the government trying to build a new location, but that was unsuccessful so people started making their own area to buy and sell things.

    I'm very confident we only saw a small portion of this market. Starting with fruit tasting and a juice once we decided which we enjoyed the most. Colombia is very proud of their fruits and almost all food and drink contain or supported by a fruit of some type. This will have been the third or fourth fruit tasting I've done. Not that I'm complaining at all.

    Next we walked the streets around the area, where they explained the history of the area and the way people live and trade here.

    We returned into the market area where we did a local dance lesson. A dance from Cartagena called Champeta. Learning about the different styles before trying it out ourselves. Then as a surprise, and because we weren't hot and sweaty enough already, Juan got up to do a mini lesson on Salsa. I sucked at both, but my excuse was I was holding a phone.

    We went for a walk through the market stopping off at two places between all the right corridors and smells... Especially the meat and fish area.

    First place was a metal recycle area, where a craftsman would repair and build pieces from left over our broken pieces of metal. Like a refurbished oil fryer.

    The other stop was at a local artist. We were asked to come up with a phase that he would write out for us to keep. We were having a mental blank so I came up with " Cartagena. Hot days and even hotter nights"... Unfortunately, it was lost in translation and the phrase "Have a Hog Day" was born.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    La Fantastica - Arrr me hearties

    October 5, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    This evening we headed out to the Pegasus port and boarded the pirate ship La Fantastica, from Miami, to spend the next couple of hours floating around the bay towards the sunset over the Caribbean.

    I think we were only meant to have one drink on board for free, but somehow we convinced them to give us 4 and they were not light either. Ron/Rum and coconut.

    We went alongside the modern part of the city called Bocagrande until we arrived at perfect timing to the opening of the port where the sunset was directly infront of us.

    On the way back we got into a sea battle with another pirate ship, but I think we managed to scare them.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Rum and Chocolate Tasting

    October 5, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Because we needed more rum, we headed out for a tasting of it and chocolate.

    Honestly I couldn't remember a thing we were told, I'm a bad student. But it was a fun experience though trying the different strengths and regions of where they were made in Colombia.

    The host even grabbed a special Australian themed bottle off the shelf to shows me. Not taste though unfortunately.

    We were reminded that we had a 3am start the next day.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Tayrona National Park

    October 6, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Lush tropical forest beside the beach. Sounds so refreshing right? I thought so too until about 20 minutes into the 2.5 hour walk through it, up and down the side of mountains. By the end I was ready to dry off by jumping into the water.

    It was a super gorgeous walk though when you got a moment to catch your breath and appreciate where you were.

    The day starts very early when travelling from Cartagena. It is much smarter to start closer by beginning in Santa Marta. But that wasn't an option we had, so a 5 hour drive each way was what we were left with. I think we all slept most of that time anyway, especially in three morning since we were hungover.

    The walk there takes you up and down over the terrain of forest and then along the beach side. The ultimate goal is to get all the way to Playa del Cabo because there is a restaurant there and more suited to spend a few hours then the other places that you could stop.

    There the water was warm, above body temperature in some spots. Which did actually surprise me. We spent almost the entire available time in the water, apart from having lunch. Thankfully because we left a little earlier we had a few hours here, even after my slow walking took us longer then expected to arrive.

    At the end of the day you have the option of walking back, as most people would, or take a horse. Considering how long I took us to get there, and now it was hotter, we chose to take horseback. I wish we could have taken pictures or video, because this was mountaineering horseback. Steep inclines and declines through rocky areas, mud, water. It was unlike any horseback riding I'd ever experienced. Thankfully we had some practice in Jardin coffee farm before we did this, or I don't know how I would have handled it. Alex and I had it lucky though, about 1/3 of the way through Juan's horse went rogue and completely ran off with him on it. Turning back, going through some farm, going along the beach. If it was a planned ride it would have been amazing, but it was an angry horse doing what he wanted with Juan on the back.

    An unforgettable day that we will always remember.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Palenque - Africa hidden in Colombia

    October 7, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ 🌩️ 32 °C

    For us this holiday has been about learning about the people, culture, food, and history. There are plenty of touristy things to do in Cartagena, like jump in a mud volcano for example.

    But one of the activities we found was run by a operator called Black Legacy. In this tour they bring you to a town called Palenque to learn about the people in this area and their freedom from slavery. This was the first free village in the Americas, declared by the king of Spain. It is now UNESCO recognised for its cultural significance.

    This community started when the ladies would disguise maps and hide things like seeds and essentials in their weaves. Maps that would direct the others how to navigate their way out and set up the settlement here in the valley a while away from their captive slave lives of Cartagena.

    The statue of the man is Domingo Bioho, the leader of ten slaves who escaped slavery and established Palenque. He was later executed by the governor of Cartagena by hanging and quartering him, which is why his statue is powerfully in half too.

    We went inside a traditional mud house that was donated as a museum to see the way people lived, made food, and supported their family.

    We were treated to a cultural dance, traditional to this area. So much energy given just how insanely hot it is here. It was really impressive. Ofcourse they would not let us just watch and enjoy, no, they grabbed each of our hands and pulled us up to join in at the end.    Read more

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    1

    Farewell Colombia

    October 7, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Sitting on a fortification that is 500 years old that protected this city against countless attacks by French, English, Portuguese invaders while sipping a sangria and watching the sun go down over the Carribbean sea, seems a little surreal. Our last night in Cartagena, and our last night in Colombia.

    We're so happy to have come and experienced this place. We got to enjoy travelling along the northern coastline and experiencing the difference of it compared to the rest of our holiday. But the humidity and heat also made us ready to leave. There was still so much to explore here with more time.

    But while we were ready to leave Cartagena, we were not ready to leave Colombia. We both honestly fell in love with this country in the short time we were here. We couldn't say that about any other that we visited, but in fairness it was the country we spent the most time in too. And so glad we did.

    I feel guilty for perpetuating the stigma that has been attached to the country for the last 30 years. They, as a country, have moved on and so should the rest of us. Every region is unique and beautiful in its own ways, and there was so much more we would have loved to see.

    Viva Colombia y Salud!    Read more

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