• Grand Canyon

    13. november 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    The Grand Canyon! I had been to the Grand Canyon when I was 5 or 7, but I had only been on the rim looking across the vast scar cut into the earth by the magnificent Colorado River. This time I would venture into the depths of one of the most recognized canyons in the world. The morning passed by quickly. After waking up early because of the cold, I eventually thawed out and checked out the visitor center. After a quick video about the canyon I was ready to hit the trail. Time to unpack the gear I would need for the next three days and fit it all in my little camelbak. Another hour goes by before I manage to efficiently pack up the bike and my backpack. I hop on the shuttle bus and arrive at the Bright Angel trailhead around 11:30. The days hike will descend 4380 feet spanning 9.5 miles.Læs mere

  • Kaibab!

    12. november 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    In the morning I still had another 10 miles of unpaved road to traverse. It was slow going but beautiful. I eventually came to the Roosevelt dam which was modified between 1989 and 1996 to increase the height by 77 feet. It was determined that the original height wasn't high enough for a possible flood, so that's why the damn was modified. The original dam was built between 1903 and 1911 out of stone cut from the nearby canyon. At the time it was the largest stone dam in the world.

    The ride to the grand canyon was beautiful. More mountains, cacti, and high desert. The road brought me to about 8000 feet and it got cold for a few hours. A quick stop in Flagstaff for lunch, and then I continued to the canyon. I wanted make sure I got to the backcountry office before they closed and find a spot try sleep for the night in the national forest just outside the park. On my way out of Flagstaff I had beautiful views of a lightly snow dusted Humphreys peak. A 12,637 foot peak in central Arizona.

    I arrived at the backcountry office just after 4 and obtained a permit for two nights at the bright angel camp at the bottom of the canyon just past that Colorado River. I quickly turned around and set up camp in Kaibab national Forest immediately beyond the park boundary to the south. The forest was very inviting with nicely spaced trees and a few established camp spots. I chose one and made camp before the sun started to set. Something I hadn't managed to accomplish in the last couple of days. I got ready for a cold night, as the forecast said it would be in the 20s. I donned all my clothes and climbed into my sleeping bag after dancing around outside my tent to watch the moon and keep warm for a bit.

    The night was cold and for whatever reason, I woke up at 2 and couldn't sleep the rest of the night. I tossed and turned till i couldn't take it anymore. I new it was going to be even colder outside my sleeping bag and tent, but I wasn't sleeping so I braved the cold and started a fire in the fire ring. I knew the ring wasn't a legal one (you're not supposed to have a fire in a national forest unless it's in a ring provided by the national forest) but my hands and feet were about to freeze off. The small fire I made was just big enough to warm me up so I wasn't too uncomfortable. Time to make breakfast and break down camp. Every few minutes I would come back and warm my hands and feet. Once everything was packed up, I started the bike after a few tries and went to the visitor center to warm up some more.

    Pictures: a bridge just passed the Roosevelt dam. The Roosevelt lake side of the dam. An elevated view towards the canyon. Looking back at Humphreys peak. My campsite in Kaibab. A frosty helmet next to the fire. Not the same as a frosty mug.
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  • Racing The Sun

    11. november 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Earlier in this trip I was chasing the sun across the country. The days were nice and long, and I could ride for as long as I felt comfortable. Then I would stop, set up camp, make and eat dinner, then find a nice place to watch the sun set. If I stopped riding before I got tired, I would even have time for a 2-3 hour adventure on foot. I don't really have a good sense of what season it is, so I feel out of touch with how short the days are now. Overnight it seems the daylight hours have been cut almost in half. Transitioning from relatively flat dessert, to more mountainous dessert has also cut extra daylight out quite literally over night. I am starting to barely have enough time to find a place to sleep, set up camp, make and eat dinner, all the while the sun is setting. It's also getting hard to sleep all the way through the night as the sun is my alarm clock and it keeps getting later and later in the morning.

    The Arizona desert is amazing to look at though. The temperature is almost perfect. When I wake up it is usually in the low 50s I'm guessing. By the time I'm done eating breakfast the temperature is warm enough that I don't mind washing my dishes with cold water. The first two hours of riding this morning we brisk, but not uncomfortable. Mid morning till noon is perfect. Then the afternoon gets a little hot, to the point where I'll seat if I stop moving. Then I'll arrive at my campsite just after the sun goes behind the mountains but just before sunset, any I'm comfortable in short sleeves and shorts. After the sun sets, I need to immediately don some pants and a long sleeve shirt. I think I'm right on the boarder of having enough daylight, and the temperature be warm enough for me to be comfortable. I feel this journey is approaching it's end. I guess the end of something enjoyable is always bittersweet. You can now look back at those enjoyable memories and put to use your new experiences. There is also something new waiting for you in your next journey. Who knows what it will be!

    I really trailed off there but it's too hard to edit this with one finger, so it'll stay. The desert is gorgeous! I stared to see the type of cacti that look like the cacti that's drawn in a roadrunner/Wiley coyote cartoon. The scenery is actually pretty close to that cartoon. My advice if you never see this part of the country is to get off your as and come see it! Then watch roadrunner cartoons and compare. Not a bad homework assignment; although I guess the first half may not necessarily be at home.

    Today I made a trip to visit my grandfather's resting place. Coincidentally it is Veterans day, and he served in the air force during the Korean and Vietnam wars. It was good to see him again. RIP Grandpa Bill.

    I then headed for the start of the Apache trail which my Aunt Monique had recommended. The trail started out as a paved road. It soon became very bumpy fit about 6 or 7 miles. The bumps were very regular, went across the entire road and were spaced about 10 feet. At the same time the sun was getting dangerously low in the sky. Soon the road smoothed out and the ride got a lot better. The scenery was stunning around each corner. While I didn't like the fact that the sun was about to set and I still had yet to secure a tent spot for the night, the light made the landscape light up all around me. With about 20 miles left on the trail, it became unpaved. The road was hard packed sand and suitable for my motorcycle. I did scope out the trail using my handy dandy pocket computer and paper map in search of a nice place to rest for the night before venturing down this trail. I did find a few campsites, but came across a forest service road that was begging me to check it out. I eventually found the road, just before the sun set at the virtual horizon behind the mountains, and it too looked suitable for my motorcycle. It may have been difficult for a low clearance front wheel drive car to climb back out, but my two wheels did the trick. The road was steep, narrow, windy, and without guard rails. At the bottom of the forest service road was a boat launch and several flat spots to camp. I unpacked my gear set up camp, ate a quick dinner and got ready to head to the grand canyon in the morning.

    Pictures: These are all pictures along the Apache trail. The last one is the Roosevelt dam which controls the Salt river downstream.
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  • Dam! Where Am I Going To Sleep?

    10. november 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    The Hoover dam! What a cool piece of technology and engineering history. This dam was the largest of its kind when it was conducted, and many new technologies were created during the project. The concrete was continuously poured for 2 years. Just think about that for a minute. Continuously means 24/7/365 (it might have been 363). It was poured as interlocking blocks, not just one giant mass of concrete. The scale of the project was massive, not only for the construction itself, but the effect it has on the desert, people in the surrounding area, as well as the people hired to build the dam as it was built during the great depression. It would have been cool to see this dam as a kid when I was learning about the great depression. Things may have sunk in a bit better.

    I almost didn't take the dam tour, but then I remembered that I was here specifically to see the dam. I'd be crazy not to go inside. The tour did make me late for my departure however. The tour was worth it though. I recommend seeing this wonder if you're on the fence, or have any interest in large scale energy and construction projects. It's also cool to see how people got shit done. Under the right circumstances we can accomplish anything. The dam was completed under budget and ahead of schedule. This is unheard of nowadays. Again, I think the great depression played a big part in the construction of this dam.

    My plan for the night was to find some more BLM land as I entered Arizona. I left the dam around 3, so I only had 2 plus hours to find my home for the night. As I rode into the desert, the sun was getting dangerously low. I wasn't going to make it to where I had planned on sleeping. Lucky for me there is a lot of BLM land in northwestern Arizona. From the highway I spotted a few campers off the road, so I slammed on the brakes and set up my tent just before dark. Road noise was pretty loud but I was happy that I wasn't looking for a place to sleep in the dark. If it's for free it's for me!

    Pictures: The intake towers. Marble floors made on the cheap during the depression. A 50 foot diameter underground intake pipe. Gratuitous dam photos. Where I slept for the night. The road is about 300 feet to my left.
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  • Vegas Baby!

    9. november 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Just outside of Vegas is Red Rocks. On my way there I drove through the heart of the Mojave desert. Luckily for me it wasn't too hot because it is November, but temperatures here can crest 100 degrees on a regular basis in the summer. The Mojave was beautiful. Large mountain ranges surround you and it looks like you'll be trapped, but the roads sneak between the mountains like a cyclist doing the wiggle in San Francisco. Then you see more flat desert and the next range off on the horizon.

    About 50 miles outside of Vegas there is some cool technology out in the desert. Three large thermal solar collectors sit on the desert floor directing sunlight at a focal point. Imagine a huge array of mirrors all pointed at a tower in the middle of those mirrors. You can actually see the intense light beaming back to that central tower. I wasn't able to get a picture as I was on an interstate, but if you're curious look up the Ivanpah solar power facility. It's pretty cool. Apparently the beams of concentrated light can kill birds that fly through them as the air temperature can reach 1000 degrees Fahrenheit. A terrible side effect of such a technology as a dessert ecosystem is such a fragile one. About 3500 birds were killed during the first year of operation, and apparently the company that built the technology is trying to deter wild life, especially birds, from entering the air space surrounding the intense light.

    Before arriving at Red Rocks, I made sure to stop at an in and out. I'd heard of the burger joint from many people who said it was not to be missed. I didn't get to one in Cali as I was on a hunt for good tacos, which I felt was more important than a fast food burger. The Vegas area isn't known for tacos so it was time for a burger. I think I need to run some more tests to see where the in and out burger stands among others, but it was a solid fast food burger. I'd eat another one. Animal style is definitely the way to go. Thanks for the heads up Sam!

    After a burger I shot over to red rocks and drove through the park loop. I wasn't inspired to go for much hiking here either so it was time for bed.

    The next day I made my way into Vegas and got ready to see the Cirque du Soleil show O. Before the show I walked around the strip getting lost in the mega hotels near the Belagio. What an unusual place Vegas is. A gigantic city in the middle of a desert. I think it's strange how we see nothing wrong with using tremendous amounts of power and water for an adult playground in the desert, but some people are opposed to building renewable energy systems in the same area. Just something to think about.

    The circus was amazing as was the surrounding area. I had an awesome seat too. The seat was so good and I was dressed in the nicest clothes I had with me, which were my only pair of pants and my button down flannel patterned shirt, that one of the ushers jumped in front of me on my way to my seat to make sure someone with my style was in the right spot. After the show I got to see the fountain show at the Belagio. Pretty cool. After Vegas it was onward to the Hoover dam! Another renewable energy technology in the middle of fragile ecosystems.

    Pictures: The Mojave. Red Rocks. My view at O. The fountain show at the Belagio. Lake Mead which is above the hoover dam.
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  • Oh Fu!!! Oooooh Sh! Get The FffffOut

    8. november 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    On the positive side, late night shows will have 4 more years of material. I guess that's all people care about. I can't believe this is happening...

  • Climate Change

    8. november 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Leaving the LA area was not a particularly pretty ride. large roads and construction explode from the city, leaving spaghetti like tracks in the desert. Eventually the roads became sparse and all that remained was dessert and strip malls. That then became desert and dry mountains; the landscape became beautiful again as I drove further into the Mojave. The temperature increases and there were almost no clouds in the sky. This place is what I imagine when I think of a desert.

    I arrived at Sam's place where he and his girlfriend Diana and her family live just on the boarder of Joshua Tree National Park. Sam and Diana happened to be in the driveway as I drove up so I knew I was in the right spot. We caught up and hung out for the evening. I got to meet Diana's kids Davian and Cassius. Everyone made me feel at home and it was a very relaxing few days. Sam, Diana, the kids and I went out for a hike one day, and we also went to a nearby playground one morning. The playground brought me back; what a fun group.

    After a few days it was time to get back on the road. I left around around 4:45 in the afternoon, and daylight savings had ended without me really noticing, so I only had about an hour to get to my destination and set up camp. I was going to camp in Joshua Tree, but it was too late in the day so I found some BLM land just outside of the park. The sunset in the desert is gorgeous. A few clouds lit up from the disappearing sun and the entire sky was visible. Usually there are buildings or trees or hills or mountains in the way. The sunset in the desert is almost like being in the ocean.

    The next day I rode through Joshua tree. I didn't feel like going for a hike or doing much exploring as the scenery didn't appear to change much and there is no water in the park except at the entrance, so all water needs to be carried. Hiking in desserts doesn't seem to be my thing, so I rode to Red Rocks and Vegas. The ride through Joshua Tree was really nice though.

    Pictures: A view if the San Andreas fault and Palm Springs. Sunset over Yucca valley from BLM land just outside Joshua Tree. My campsite in the morning. Joshua trees in the park.
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  • 75 And Sunny

    4. november 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    South of big Sur the weather continued to improve. Route 1 was also gorgeous. I headed south toward the LA area. My plan at the beginning of the day was to find a camping spot in the mountains nearby. As I continued south I remembered that Finley lives in long Beach. The next time I stopped I shot Finley a text seeing if he was around and if I could stay on his couch. Before I could ask if I could stay over, he offered my an inflatable bed in the guest room! I immediately changed my destination for the end of the day.

    I've always heard that I would find some delicious tacos out in this part of the country. I did a quick search for the Santa Barbara area and picked a spot. I'm not sure if Santa Barbara generally has good tacos, but the place I went to sure did. I had one fish, one al pastor, and one barbacoa. All delicious. Each taco was full of flavor, especially the al pastor which has pineapple in it! Then there was a salsa bar with about 8 or 10 different salsas. I think I might need to go back to try them all. I only tried the habanero and the avocado salsas.

    After lunch, I continued down the coast. Some areas were home to beach towns and some were just mountains and ocean. This is a gorgeous part of the country which seems like a dessert one minute and beach oasis the next. Soon I started to see off shore oil derricks near Catalina island which is off the coast of LA. I was getting close. As I navigated my way into Long Beach, I new there would be traffic. I was arriving at the height of rush hour. As I passed through Malibu traffic started to back up but it was still moving. By the time I got to Santa Monica traffic was stop and go. It was also about 80 degrees outside and my bike and I were roasting in the sun. I stayed on route 1 till I got passed LAX. The traffic was almost dead stopped, however California allows motorcycles to lane split. I was too hot and my cooling fan was cranked up, so I joined in with the rest of the free motorcycles. Just 10 miles per hour, and I was a lot cooler, but I was still about 25 miles from Finley's place.

    I got on to the 405, and it was 5 lanes of stop and go traffic. I noticed that there were motorcycles lane splitting between the carpool lane and the rest of the traffic. I was out of my element so I followed suit. My eyes were darting left and right as I comparatively flew by nearly stopped cars. As I sliced through traffic I noticed a few motorcycles behind me. I ducked into a lane to let them pass. Getting back between the lanes I found that the other motorcycles were traveling at about 40mph. This speed felt way too fast especially for my fat ass panniers, so I maintained a more comfortable 30mph. Soon I became more comfortable with my width and was able to concentrate on other drivers and stop worrying about my panniers getting ripped off by slower moving vehicles.

    After 45 or so minutes of intense riding I arrived in Long Beach. Finley arrived about a minute after I started to park the bike. We went up to his apartment and I was able to take a very refreshing shower just before Finley made some rocking chicken tacos. After dinner we drove to Huntington Beach for a beer. It was a great way to wind down after a stressful ride, and it was fun hanging out and catching up with Finley. Thank you for the great hospitality!

    The next day I reluctantly said goodbye to the ocean, but was headed towards my cousin Sam's place a few hours east which made me forget about leaving the ocean.

    Picture: The beautiful California coast on route 1 just south of big Sur. I didn't take as many pictures as the landscape begged, but I was enjoying the ride too much to stop and take pictures every few feet. The road is also fairly twisty.
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  • Where The Livin'z Easy

    2. november 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    I quickly found better weather just south of Cupertino. Cupertino was gorgeous, but the further south I went, there were fewer clouds and it was much warmer at night. I continued to follow route 1 south with the ocean to my right and mountains to my left. I soon came to Big Sur state park. Unfortunately a recent fire had kept all the campgrounds in the park closed. Luckily there are a bunch of campgrounds along the way. I travel a few more miles south and come to Limekiln state park, which consists of about 15 maybe 20 sites. My site put me right next to a stream in the shade of a few redwoods and steep cliffs on either side. The steam flowed straight in to the ocean which was a few hundred feet away. On the way to a modestly sized yet beautiful beach I crossed under route 1, which was high overhead. The bridge was like a giant doorway between the camping area and the beach and ocean. The beach was walled in on both sides by step cliffs. it almost felt like I was in an auditorium and the sky and ocean was on stage.

    I arrived fairly early in the afternoon and still had an hour or so to bask in the sun as it set over the water. This was the first sunset on the west coast I've had that's felt warm while wearing shorts and a tee shirt. I got to put my feet in warm beach sand one more time this year, and it felt great!

    Pictures: California Central coast. The left hand wall at the Pacific ocean theater. A cool rock. A gorgeous sunset. More cool rocks.
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  • San Francisco

    26. oktober 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    After a night on the coast, I spent the next day exploring the rest of the national seashore. I rode out to the lighthouse and then headed back towards the mainland. I'd seen signs for hog island oysters and wanted to try some so I stopped in at a restaurant and ordered a few. For being so close to the source, the price was out of control. $18 for 6 oysters! I bit the bullet and ordered some. They were good but not worth the price. That was my budget for local food in that area, so it was back to the regular diet. During the day I got in touch with Aaron and planned on going to his place in San Francisco that night. I made my way towards the city but had extra time before Aaron was out of work so I took a look at the map and found a road called the "panoramic highway". I knew what I was doing for the afternoon!

    Route 1 was beautiful and without rain it was a blast to ride on. After finding the turn into the panoramic highway it immediately turned into switchbacks. At the crest of the road I was on, I saw the entrance to a park. I turned up that road which continued to ascend. The twists and turns seemed endless as the road narrowed. After a while I came to a parking lot and I could see the entire bay area. I somehow hit the perfect day for overlooking the city. No fog and a beautiful sunny day. I then headed for the Marin headlands and got some closer views of the golden gate bridge. I don't know how often you can catch a clear day on the bridge but every other time I've been in the city, the golden gate has been shrouded in thick fog, sometimes clearing for just a few minutes. I hung out and stared at the city. An unusual thing to do these days. I felt the ebb and flow of people showing up for a minute or two, snapping a few pictures, and promptly leaving. It wasn't very peaceful, and should have started charging money for the number of pictures I took of other people as they asked me to take their picture.

    After checking out the bridge it was time to head into San Francisco. I crossed the bridge and met Aaron at his apartment. We were able to sneak my motorcycle into his garage behind his car and his motorcycle. It was time to get used to tight spaces in cities again. It's always fun hanging out with Aaron. We had a couple of beers and then went out for some delicious deep dish a few blocks from his house. One of the things I really like about cities is convenience and proximity to restaurants, bars, and people. It can be tiring at times, but I usually enjoy a city when I have friends to hang out with. Thanks again Aaron for having me over! I can't wait to have you visit when I get to Colorado.

    The next day I headed for Oakland to see Lara and Jon. I crossed over the bay bridge and was introduced to California lane splitting. During rush hour there is always stopped traffic. I am usually at the mercy of the traffic jam, but I was now on two wheels which easily slice through traffic like a samurai sword through a watermelon. Not sure if that's a thing but you get the idea.

    It was great to see Jon and Lara again. Some recent transplants to the area, it was good to see friends doing what I plan to do very soon. We had great food, explored the farmers market on the weekend and hung out. It was a nice change of pace. Two more gracious and generous hosts. I look forward to hosting them as well when I find my next place to call home.

    After Oakland I made my way to Cupertino to visit David and Vanessa. I met them at one of their friends Halloween parties a few miles from their house. I arrived at the party not knowing anyone there, and easily gained entry. If you find a house with a party going on I've found that it's usually pretty easy to get in without knowing anyone there. Just an observation. I swear I'm not a creeper who crashes random parties. Soon David and Vanessa showed up as Waldo and a slutty pumpkin. The party had started.

    After the party Vanessa needed to make a shepherd's pie for a work pot luck the next day. We all chopped some veggies and hung out while Vanessa assembled the pie. After some great conversation I think I was able to keep them up past their bedtime. They both had work the next day so I rode back into San Fran to have lunch with Alison. We missed meeting up while I was in the city and I had time to go back for lunch. It's was good to see her even though it was just for lunch. After lunch I rode back to Cupertino but headed down the coast and over some mountains. Again riding on some great roads. I should mention that the weather in the bay area was mostly overcast with short rain storms, but Cupertino was the border of the rain I'd been trapped in for the last month. It was the light at the end of the tunnel.

    That night David and Vanessa and I went out for dinner. Another night out with friends. Something that I'd become accustomed to living in Boston for so many years, and really missed while on the road.

    Eventually it was time to keep going south. I really wanted to see Yosemite but for the second time on the trip I aborted the mission due to cold weather. Temperatures the park were consistently in the 20s at night. Time to go further south in search of better weather.

    Pictures: Road to the lighthouse on point Reyes. View of San Francisco from atop Mt. Tamalpais. Golden gate from Marin headlands. Steep motorcycle parking at Lara's and Jon's in Oakland. A view of the city from faction brewery. Delicious grilled cheese sandwiches there. Thanks Jon!
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  • Point Reyes National Seashore

    25. oktober 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Leaving Gualala, I head for Point Reyes National Seashore were there is some backcountry camping. It is supposed to rain all day so I make sure everything is buttoned up so things stay as dry as possible. I even close my pant zipper pockets, which if you leave open is similar to leaving a jacket pocket open while skiing, but much wetter.

    Route 1 is again a challenge. The wet roads I found were no more slippery, but debris in the road had increased. I keep a keen eye out for sticks and other obstacles. Eventually I come around a tight corner and there is an unavoidable wet stick in the road. The front tire hits the stick. The stick is very close to parallel with my front tire as I'm leaning into the turn. I then feel the front tire ride up and over the stick as centripetal force pulls me to the outside of my turn. Luckily the stick wasn't too big and my front wheel only jumped a half inch or so, but it was big enough to make my heart jump about the same amount. I continue on towards the seashore and the rain starts to clear. The forecast has the following day listed as rain free, and partly sunny, so I should be alright sleeping for the night in the relative dry. I soon come to the visitor center and my outer shell and gloves have started to dry off. At the visitor center I get a permit and ask about weather and animals in the area. They seem to have raccoon and skunk problems at the campsites, so lockers available are at each site. A definite plus to not have to worry about food storage at camp. After getting the lay of the land I ride to the trail head and pack an overnight backpack, cover the bike, read it a bedtime story, give it a kiss goodnight and start a short 2 mile hike to the campsite.

    The name of the campsite is "coast". Very clever. This does throw some ambiguity into the mix when there is also a trail called "coast" but does not lead to the campsite called "coast". Luckily I remembered the name of the trailhead as well as how to get there and didn't start going down the wrong trail. It feels like I'm in the exact opposite place from the national seashore on the cape. There are shore birds, dunes, a very dense, diverse group of native plants that don't grow much outside of this area, and the possibility of great sunsets. I immediately spot a young buck on the side of the trail. Soon after that there is a flock of quail in the trail. Followed by a cool salamander also hiking down the trail. I'm pretty sure I'm in the right place.

    Soon enough I reach my campsite and I set up my tent. I might be a little strange but I enjoy setting up my tent. Otherwise I probably wouldn't enjoy camping much. Finding the right spot, then orienting the tent properly for ease of entry and sunrise while keeping in mind the grade should there be one, and if the tent is in a low spot, is a fun small challenge. The challenge then results in shelter and is fairly gratifying, especially when done properly.

    A quick dinner of still delicious lentil soup, is all that is left to do before heading down to the beach. The beach lies down a path which leads to a small body of water which almost blocks access to the beach. The path turns sharply as it becomes extremely narrow. You are only a few feet above the medium sized pool, but the drop off into the pool is steep. Slipping in might mean complete submersion, which would not be fun. I take careful steps and soon am staring at a beautiful windswept beach. There is a sliver of blue sky close to the horizon. Maybe I'll the sun today! As I walk down the beach, I follow animal tracks. Maybe it's a raccoon's tracks? I never find out, but I do spot some piping plovers. The same birds that nest on cape cod beaches all summer. Then the sunset happened! Well at least I think it did... The small window through the clouds was almost in the right spot. It still made for a great view though. That's as close as I've come to seeing the sun in a few days. Today was a good day.

    Pictures: Route 1 south of Gualala. A little more route 1. The first salamander I've seen in a long time. I remember finding them routinely under a rock which was under a downspout at the house I grew up in. A glimpse of the Pacific. Sunset with some nicely placed flowers. A little later and further down the beach.
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  • Gualala!

    24. oktober 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    It's fun to say especially when it's pronounced incorrectly. The "G" is shy. Getting to Gualala was an adventure. Route 101 follows the Oregon coast, and then in California, south of redwood park route 1 begins. It immediately winds up and down a mountain for an hour or so till you get back to the coast. Then it continues to wind with a misleading 55mph speed limit. I spend most of my time in 3rd gear dropping into second fairly often. This road is fun! The day goes on, and I realize the last hour and a half of my ride will be in the dark. For the second time on the trip I break one of my rules; no riding at night. Unless I ninja camp in the expected heavy rain and wind, I have to keep going. I gas up and press on. The temp is dropping and I can sense the rain coming. As dusk arrives my visor becomes useless. The salty air condenses on the visor and what I thought was the vapor coming off the crashing waves during the day creating a coastal mist is just a hard to clean layer on my visor which becomes impossible to see through as night falls and headlights refract on the misty slime on the visor. The visor goes up and I hope all the bugs are asleep. It takes a few minutes for my tear ducts to adjust to the increased airflow in my face but soon I can see quite well. Quite well is a relative term as clouds block any light the moon and stars may have provided.

    My concentration level skyrockets as I continue to ride along route 1 into the darkness. I can hear the waves crashing to my right and I start to ride extremely conservatively. A missed turn on a motorcycle on a normal road and you stand a good chance of surviving. Route 1 is less forgiving. The road is in excellent condition however. Very few bumps and well marked center lines make this passage doable. I take the ride one turn at a time and am relieved when I arrive in Gualala.

    It's great to see Sarah and meet her fiance Charlie. She is about to move back to new Orleans so I arrive just in time to check out their sweet apartment right on the coast. Sarah makes an awesome chili for dinner despite having packed most of the spice weasel for the move. I sleep well and get ready for my approach into San Francisco. My bike has the best nights rest nestled in Sarah's garage! Thanks again Sarah and Charlie!

    Photos: view from Sarah's apartment.
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  • Rain Rain, Is Here To Stay

    22. oktober 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After leaving the sweet shelter of friends houses I ventured down the Oregon coast. Since arriving in Seattle, this was the first night in a tent since Idaho. Time to get back to it. I first ventured east to the Columbia River gorge. Hiked a short way up to check out some falls and then headed for the coast. Riding all day in a slight mist with little sun and low 60s upper 50s got to be pretty bone chilling. I got close to my planned camp for the night, Cape Lookout state park, and then the skies opened up. In a matter of seconds I became drenched. It was raining so hard that I was about to pull over, but it let up slightly and I was so close to the campground that I kept going. There was also no shelter to hide under. Upon arrival I asked a ranger about staying in a yurt, but they were full up. A tent site it was. I set up quickly and arranged my jacket and pants on my bike under my cover as best I could even though I knew they'd still be damp in the morning. I slept well and remained dry through the night, but all my gear was wet. Looking at weather forecasts all night, I decided that exploring the coast was not what I wanted to do. As long as it was raining, I wasn't going to have a lot of fun. The forecast did have a day without rain so I drove to southern Oregon the next day and snagged a cheap motel to dry out my gear in for the night. The coast was still beautiful and my eyes wanted to stay but my hands and feet longed for southern California. Half way through the next day I aim for Gualala CA. A quick stop in redwood national park and I decide to get the hell out of there before some heavy the next day. A childhood friend Sarah Welinsky caught wind of my trip and she and her fiance offered a bed for the night and a chance to catch up.

    Pictures: a waterfall in the gorge. Hug point, and my first view of the Pacific on this trip. All my gear which is dry-ish on the inside, but drenched in the outside. Overall I'm very happy with my pants and jacket. I stayed dry all day underneath those. A Julia Stoner approved beach at lookout park. A hiking trail along the coast. More investigation is needed here. I might be coming back for this. Midway through the day after the rain. The sun is out!
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  • Portland, OR

    18. oktober 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Before I begin with Portland I did spend a few more days with Ryan and Christina putting up some siding. We continued to have delicious meals and visited a great brewery down the road. They even broke out some champagne the last night of my visit. Thanks again guys! That was fun.

    After Enumclaw I was going to head to Portland, but a storm over the weekend put a damper on the planned birthday party on the coast. I had planned on seeing Tom Bergeron so I had to turn north to spend the night with him. It was nice to go for a bike ride and drink some delicious beers with Tom. I didn't get to meet his new wife Megan, but I'll just have to come back!

    The next morning I made my way to Portland with a stop at the museum of flight in southern Seattle. The museum was cool and a good way to get out of the rain. After the museum I made my way to Portland. Just before getting into Portland it started raining hard. Just enough to get my gloves wet. This would be a common theme in the coming days.

    I stayed with Luke and Michelle for the next few days. We went out for a delicious dinner at the radio room which is right down the street from their house. They live in an great neighborhood, and an awesome house! I was there during the week so we just hung out at night. During the day Luke suggested that I check out the 4T trail which uses the train, tram, trail, and trolley. What an awesome trail. It starts in downtown Portland, takes you up to the zoo, and then you walk to the highest point in Portland on a wooded trail that looks like the island on Jurassic park. At the top you can see Mt saint Helen, Mount Hood, and a few others. There were a lot of clouds so I don't think I saw all the visible peaks. Then you take a tram down to southern Portland and the trolley takes you back to the start.

    Portland is a cool city! They also have delicious doughnuts. I made it my personal quest to sample different shops. Voodoo doughnuts wins for me even though it was the most well known and commercial. The next day it rained all day, so I had breakfast with Laura Totten! Great to catch up with her. After breakfast I decided to check out the arcade. An excellent idea (thanks for putting that seed in my head Tom B.). Time crisis II is just as fun as I remember.

    In the evening Luke, Michelle, and I went out for some food truck dinner. Portland has many of these beauties. I'm going to need to visit Portland again in the summer when it's less rainy. Thanks again for hosting me in Portland Luke and Michelle! Great to see you.

    Photos: Pike Place Market, an unusual break in the clouds and the sun was out. A view of Mount Hood while on the 4T trail in Portland. My favorite doughnut in Portland, the maple bacon bar. An awesome yet unusually placed house along the 4T trail. Great for the residents, but unfortunate for the landscape. The tram back down to Portland. Breakfast with Laura.
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  • Back to Boston

    5. oktober 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    After a few days in Enumclaw I was soon on my way back to Boston for Matt and Genevieve's wedding. I was excited to see them get hitched as well as everyone who was going to be at the wedding.

    Before going into Boston, Andrew had offered to pick me up from the airport just after midnight, so I gladly accepted and spent the next day in Andover. He even took the day off so we could hang out. We started thinking about what to do on the day off. We decided to check out Nahant. I've only been to Nahant once in college and it wasn't during the day so it was cool to explore the peninsula. Northeastern has a lab out there which also happens to be an old gun installation from WWII. Pretty cool if you are looking for something to explore near Boston for a few hours.

    After getting back, Andrew, Amanda and I went out for dinner at the local Mexican joint. A delicious dinner with great friends!

    The next day was spent with the wedding party. We moved stuff around, prepared flowers, and went through a rehearsal at the church. It was fun for me but probably stressful for the bride and groom. So many things to get done, I'm not sure how they remembered their names as the end of the day. Speaking of the end of the day, we had dinner at branch line courtesy of Paul and Ann Babineau. Delicious food and drinks. Then we finished the night at the hotel bar before getting some much needed rest.

    Wedding day! A few more tasks to check off the list, but then it was time to get to the church. The ceremony was beautiful. I won't bore you with the details, typical wedding stuff, except it was Matt and Genevieve so you can imagine what it was like you weren't there.

    The next day brought brunch, and Mike McLinn's birthday! I lucked out and got to see him on his birthday which was a nice change of pace. The following day I went for a hike near Waterville valley with 15 friends! Definitely the biggest group of hikers in an unorganized event. The hike was amazing and it was great to see friends again.

    Special thanks to Mike Lambert and Sarah for letting me crash at their place and stashing my dehydrated food there. The next morning I was back on a plane to Seattle.

    Pictures: Boston from Nahant. Limo to the church. Mr McCann in fine form at the hotel after the wedding. Not sure how they expect keep things quiet with a vuvuzela in the lobby. Hiking with some of my favorite people. The foliage was also fine form. Sun bathing in October at the top of our hike.
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  • Enumclaw

    1. oktober 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Enumclaw! The name says a lot. Friends from Northeastern (Ryan and Christina) who moved to the PNW some time ago moved to Enumclaw a few years ago to get out of the city and find a piece of land to call their own. I got wind of a barn project while on my way out to their house and offered to help while I was there. Upon arrival I met their friend Kevin who was a driving force for part of the project. Raising the barn a bit too make the walls straight, level out the roof line and pour a foundation under the barn. A project I was interested in to see how it was going to unfold. The property was huge compared to city dwelling. A large field out back with a big barn, a massive detached garage and a single level house. I was taken with the garage. A man cave which when fully functional could crank out projects which I can only dream of at this point.

    Hanging out with Ryan, Christina, and Kevin was a blast. We would work on the barn during the day, eat delicious food from chef Christina at night, talk and eventually play a dice game called farkle. The day I arrived it was partly cloudy. After that the sun decided to go on vacation. Aside from the lack of sun I really enjoyed Enumclaw. Soon it came time for me to fly back to Boston for Matt and Genevieve's wedding. Barn work progressed quickly and we finished the foundation slightly ahead of schedule. Before I went back to Boston I agreed to help put up new siding on the barn when I returned. After which there was going to be a birthday party on the coast with a bunch of people. Just like that I'd had the most plans I've had since the beginning of the trip.

    Pictures:
    Mount Renier from Ryan and Christina's yard. I think this was the only day I could see the mountain. A view from the plane on my way back to Seattle after the wedding. The Olympics are in the background.
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  • Idaho

    30. september 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌫 17 °C

    After leaving Bozeman I decided to take two days to ride to Ryan and Christina's place near Seattle. The first day was a relatively short drive, only about 300 miles. First I made a necessary stop at the new day bakery to pick up breakfast, and some snacks for the ride. I actually drove by the bakery at first, but saw a sign that said fresh donuts and the place looked like a real bakery so I turned around. I'm glad I did cause they had some delicious confections inside. A scarfed down a cinnamon roll and then headed for the post office. Special thanks goes out to Mike Lambert for shipping me a resupply of dehydrated food I had made over the summer. I picked up the package which had some surprise jerky included. Just what I needed for a pick me up in between breakfast and dinner.

    Soon I was on the interstate. I was on a very familiar road, I-90, but I was in Montana where the speed limit is 80. I am welcomed to the road with large fast moving tractor trailers which are far in excess of the truck speed limit which is only 65 or 70. After jockeying for position, I settle in to the elevated speed limit. The road heads for Butte, Montana and I see signs for chain up areas ahead. Soon the road starts to climb and the large trucks fade away in the mirrors. Beautiful curves start to wind up into the mountains and then come back down on the other side. Despite the high speed limit this was probably my favorite stretch of interstate I've been on to this point. The road is smooth, windy with banked turns and appropriately marked corner entrance speeds. The scenery is also gorgeous.

    My goal for the day is to get to the Knife Edge Campground which is a free campsite with 5 spots located along the Lochsa river in Kooskia, Idaho. This part of the trip brings me up and over the Rockies. I get onto route 12 in Lolo, Montana and I see a strange sign. It says motorcycles use caution for the next 35 miles. The sign has a cryptic image of a motorcycle with arrows on either side of the rider. I find the "motorcycles use caution" signs to be redundant as I'm always using caution, but I appreciate the warning never the less. I then see signs saying that there won't be a gas station for about 90 miles. I look at how far I've gone on this tank and should have about 50 miles to spare which is enough to keep going despite elevation changes.

    The road begins to twist, and soon there are no more straight sections of road, it is one turn right after another. The other vehicles I see are mostly motorcycles and sports cars. I think I know what that cryptic sign meant, this is going to be a fun ride. Before I know it I've climbed to the top of the range and am on the border of Montana and Idaho. It is 5 or 6 o'clock (I'm uncertain because I think I'm right on a time zone border), and there is a visitor center that has just closed. I talk to a fellow rider who is headed the other way. We trade beta on the roads and wish each other safe travels. The path I am on now is one that Lewis and Clark blazed before there were roads or even detailed maps. Those guys had a real thirst for adventure. I come to a sign that says winding road next 99 miles, and the day continues to be a beautiful ride. This part of Idaho is absolutely beautiful. I am in Clearwater National Forest and this is the most scenic national Forest I've come across. Trail heads and now closed for the season campgrounds line the roadside. My backup plan should there be no sites left at the knife edge is to continue along the road till I find a suitable place to sleep. Luckily I arrive and there is one spot left. All the other campers are in gigantic RVs who look like they've been there all summer. I set up my tent and it's almost invisible compared to the RVs. Soon after my tent is up, a large truck pulls in, circles around once and leaves disappointed. If I had been 20 minutes later, that could have been me. It gets dark soon and I plan my next day. I decide to drive clear across Washington as some rainy weather is approaching. The long drive the following day encourages me to go to bed early.

    6:30, which I realized was really 5:30 arrived and I woke up bright eyed and bushy tailed. I pack up camp and hit the road before anyone else in the campground is awake or the sun is visible. I'm in a fairly deep valley so direct sunlight won't be for a few more hours. The road continues to wind and descend. It didn't seem all that cold out but my hands started to get cold from the wind chill. My heated grips heat my palms but my finger tips are numb. I stop on the side of the road to warm up my hands, and it's a great time to snap a few photos. I search for some breakfast but don't see anything along the roadway worth stopping for. Soon I'm in Lewiston, which is the biggest town I've seen that morning. I pull over and do a quick Google search, yielding a near perfect 4.9 star review of a bbq joint. Upon closer inspection, they are open for breakfast and I make a b-line for breakfast. I skipped oatmeal and decided to have one good meal to fuel the ride. It was a great choice. I also order a hot chocolate that comes with whipped cream on top. A perfect way to get rid of the chill in my hands. The online review was accurate. Breakfast was delicious and just what I needed.

    The national Forest in Idaho was lush with trees and a river. Eastern Washington looked like a dessert. Still beautiful, but a stark contrast from the morning. The roads for the first half of the day were a lot of fun, but they soon became straight, and dessert turned to irrigated farmland. Crops I have yet to see emerge from the landscape; onions and wine grapes. As the day goes on I get closer to Seattle and Enumclaw. More and more cars fill the roadway as I enter the Cascade range. Again I start to ascend, this time the temperature drops noticeably as I go into the last mountain range I'll cross going east to west. Another beautiful and green mountain range within a national Forest. I'll have to revisit these places when the weather is favorable.

    Before I know it the day is nearing its end and I've hit my first real traffic since Massachusetts. I can't say I was happy about it having left at 6am, and it's now about 6pm. The traffic is so bad that I can't get off the exit I wanted to. I go to the next exit and turn around after realizing that is the only way I can go unless I want to add another hour and a half to the ride. Upon reaching Ryan and Christina's home, I can finally relax. A long but productive day.

    Pictures: The Lochsa river. My favorite sign on the trip. More river. A much needed breakfast. The pancakes we not on the side, they came with the meal! Idaho is winning.
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  • Bozeman And Back To Society

    29. september 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    After hiking in Yellowstone it was time to figure out my next move. I was hoping that the weather was going to be a little warmer or that the equipment I brought would allow me to be more comfortable in the temperatures I experienced in the Tetons and Yellowstone. Unfortunately I was not so lucky. In looking at the attitude and latitude of Glacier national park, I made the choice to come back to that park at a later date. I'm not thrilled about missing Glacier, but I don't hold up very well in the cold especially when I'm sleeping in a tent and can't warm up sufficiently at the end of the day. I'll see you soon Glacier, but not today.

    On with my plans. What do I do now? Reggie has told me about Bozeman Montana which happens to be a short drive from Mammoth Hot Springs, which is the northern most entrance to Yellowstone. I decide to go for it after making contact with Reggie and a friend of his in Bozeman. First stop is a coffee shop. I know, I'm not a huge coffee drinker, but the atmosphere in a coffee shop is exactly what I felt like. I was a little hungry, so I got a muffin and drank a coffee, used their Wi-Fi and sat in a comfortable chair for an hour or so. I also made use of a nice toilet that didn't have spider webs all over it. Ahh, the comforts of society.

    After coffee and a snack, I made my way to Paul and Keiley's house. Without realizing it, I had already met Paul at Reggie's bachelor party, but didn't know it was the same person. It was good to see a familiar face after several weeks on the road. Paul and Keiley greeted me outside with a beer in hand. I wasn't expecting it, but I really enjoyed that beer. After unpacking the bike and getting my things together, we went inside and hung out in their living room for a bit. They let me take a shower, which was many days overdue, and we went out for dinner. After some great conversation and good food, I was welcomed back to their house with a real mattress! Today was a good day. Another highlight of the day is the price of beer out here, it's dirt cheap compared to Boston and other cities.

    The next morning I had to figure out my next move. Paul and Kieley generously offered to let me stay another night or two but after checking the weather and looking at mileage, I didn't want to wait to get to Seattle. I packed up, said my goodbyes and hit the road. Special thanks goes out to Paul and Keiley, for hosting me. It makes a huge difference in my travels.

    Pictures: The view on the hike out of Yellowstone after two nights in the backcountry. The sign on the bulletin board at the trailhead.
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  • Yellowstone, The Lesser Known Part II

    27. september 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    I wake up in the morning to very quiet surroundings. A few birds, maybe some frogs, and the sound of the river nearby. Today I'll hike westward along the Yellowstone River until midday, and then turn around and head back to camp. I usually don't like to do out and back hikes because of the repetition, but the hike in the Tetons wore me out and I was looking for something more laid back. This hike was perfect. Not too much elevation change, but the river made the scenery change around every curve. The previous day I had seen a bison, a king fisher, and a black bear. Today I would see a young bull moose, in the same spot twice, a rattlesnake, a deer, a wood pecker, and a bald eagle. I guess Yellowstone still has it.

    The moose was an interesting interaction. The hike was along side the river, and the river in a canyon. This means that there isn't much room along the trail for animals to make a quick getaway. Most of the hike does not have a lot of shade from thick vegetation, which is where moose like to hang out in during the day. So every time I come to a place that has lots of trees and bushes I start to scan for bears and other animals seeking shade from the midday sun. I saw a big bill moose in the Tetons on the side of the road, but that doesn't count. That moose couldn't give a shit that any of the people or cars were there. A city moose. I wanted to see a moose in it's natural environment, and I finally found one. It is an incredible experience. It's exciting and humbling to encounter such an animal especially when you're miles away from another person. As soon as I saw the moose it heard me and looked right at me. I stopped in my tracks and tried to get a better look. As soon as I moved the moose took off. For an animal that large, it can move quickly and quietly through dense vegetation. If I had my eyes closed I wouldn't know it was there. I thought the moose was gone, and continued walking clumsily (in comparison to the moose's graceful trot) along the path, and then I see more movement. This time I can see the moose run up a hill and stop. It would seem the two of us both want to be in this small area. Me along the trail and the moose in the damp and shady section along the river. We are about 50 feet away from each other, the moose has the high ground, is much faster than I am, weighs several times more than me, and has antlers. The moose is scared of me, but it looks to be "cornered" so I am extra careful with my movements. If the moose charges me, I think my best option is to try and duck behind a tree. I go off trail to maintain our distance always keeping one eye on the moose and one eye on my escape route while the moose keeps at least one ear on me the whole time. I move slowly and quietly, eventually making my way around the magnificent animal. I take a few pictures and then I continue along the path leaving the moose behind.

    Soon I come to my half way point which is close to noon. I stop on a rock next to the river for some dried apricots and almonds, a great lunch when you have to carry all your belongings for the days. The river is peaceful and relaxing. What a way to spend a day. After lunch I turn around and head back. I think about the moose and wonder if it will still be there. Sure enough, one of the few places I would expect to see a moose during the day, he is still there. Again the moose runs away, this time along the trail. At first I'm not sure I'll be able to get around so easily since the passable area is smaller (the trail is right in the middle of the usable terrain). Then, just as the moose gets to the edge of this shaded area, he turns back towards me and starts to slowly walk around me, the same way I walked around him. What a courteous moose.

    After passing the moose it is back to the hike as usual. I'm scanning my surroundings for movement, sounds, and smells. The previous day I thought to myself as I was hiking in that this looks an awful lot like rattle snake country. That's odd that there was no warning sign like there was in the Badlands, or the signs they have for bears here. As I continue up a section of trail I had come down an hour or so ago I hear a sound. The new noise is loud and close. My brain starts to analyze the sound and compare it to previously heard sounds on record in my memory. After some time my memory comes back with a positive match for a reptile. This reptile is dangerous and the sound is a warning. The noise I hear is that of a rattlesnake. I feel a wave of adrenaline flow through me and before I know what's happening I have stopped and am moving backwards away from the sound which my eyes have moved towards and have confirmed that it is indeed a rattlesnake. I'm glad the rattlesnake knew I was there before I got too close for comfort. When I heard the snake I was probably about 8 feet away, and had moved back to about 15 feet all without thinking or looking at the rocky, uneven, sloped terrain below my feet.

    The snake is bathing in the sun. I know how the snake feels as I was fairly cold at night and I am warm blooded. So he tells me to go around. I heed the snakes polite suggestion and again go off trail to avoid further confrontation.

    The next couple of animals I see are much less intense. The deer I saw I don't think noticed I was there until I got behind it. I was as surprised to sneak up on it as it was too see me so close and at it's 6. The ear size on deer always amazes me. The wood pecker was nice to see as well. As I got close to camp I took note of the easy entrance into the water and decided to take a dip. I hadn't seen a single person in 24 hours so it didn't matter that I had no bathing suit or towel. I jumped in and got out quickly. It may have been about 70 degrees in the sun, but that water was cold as it was overnight. As I air dried I stared upstream when I saw a large bird flying towards me. It looks like a bald eagle but it's too far away to be sure. Then it turned 90 degrees to my right and revealed more defining features. The bald eagle capped off the day with just about all the stereotypical animals one will find in Yellowstone. I'm glad I did the hike.

    Pictures: I think some elk antlers with the top of its scull. Elk along with the rest of the deer family shed and regrow their antlers every season, but it appears that this elk is no longer with us. The moose. A beautiful bend in the river. The rattlesnake. Fall colors. The remains of a bison. Most likely the work of a grizzly bear.
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  • Yellowstone, The Lesser Known

    26. september 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    My night at Norris was a little warmer than the night at Lewis Lake. Everything was still covered in frost but I didn't feel like the morning was as cold. Today I'm headed for the backcountry of Yellowstone out of the Blacktail Creek trail head. It's located only 20 or so miles from the northwest entrance of the park along the Yellowstone river. My plan is to hike in about 4.5 miles, set up camp, and then do an out and back the next day returning to the same campsite.

    To get to the trail head I have to drive from Norris to Canyon Village, and then about 3/4 of the way to Mammoth Hot Springs. There is a road between Norris and Mammoth Hot Springs, but it is closed for construction. I didn't mind the extra distance because I chose a hike that was short the first day and would only take about 2 hours. It was also another beautiful drive over Dunraven Pass which gets up to about 9000 feet. On the way up to the pass there is a gorgeous view if the Yellowstone basin and the Teton range off in the distance. The ride down was just as gorgeous.

    I arrive at the trailhead at about 1 o'clock. After arriving I start to prepare for the hike. All said and done it took about an hour to reorganize my backpack and take only the essentials. My small camelback day pack gets crammed with a two nights hike worth of stuff. To the bottom of the pack I secure my sleeping bag with some chord. In my pack goes my tent, 4 wool shirts, one pair of socks, a hat, gloves, some nuts, a stove, fuel, a knife, toothbrush, toothpaste, sunscreen, trowel, TP, and some Chapstick. On top of my pack in the sack that my sleeping bag came in I store the rest of my food and a water filter. I also stash the tent poles and steaks on the side of my pack and my solar panel and battery go on top of it all, which is how I have enough charge in my phone right now to write this.

    I start walking not knowing what to expect like any trail you've never hiked before. It is fairly flat and uneventful. About a mile or so later I come across a bison grazing alone. I continue along the trail and a couple hiking out with fishing poles is going back to the trail head. I pass one other person, sitting off to the side of the trail meditating and that's it for a person that I'll see that day. As I drop down into the canyon, I can start to hear the river. I come to a suspension bridge and the hike starts to get interesting. Only about 3/4 of a mile left to go. I get to my site right around 4. Set up, eat dinner, filter water, and hang my food. Then I sat by the river until it gets to be dusk. Before the sun dipped behind the hill in the other side of the river I noticed how wide open it is across the way. A perfect vantage to spot an animal. Now that I can hardly make things out, I hear some leaves rustling. I can't tell where it came from so I jump up and spin around with my bear spray at the ready. I see and hear nothing. All of my senses are on high alert and I scan my surroundings for movement or a sound. As I look across the river I spot a large black object. It moves and reveals that it is a black bear. I'm glad it's on the other side of the river and exploring the side of the river I'm on. It's time to retreat to the relative safety of my tent. My hands are starting to get cold anyway. I fall asleep rather quickly, and don't wake up very often throughout the night. A night above freezing!

    Pictures: Morning frost at Norris. Dunraven Pass looking over Yellowstone and the Teton range. Yellowstone Canyon. The suspension bridge that takes me to the north side of Yellowstone river. My fully loaded day pack after arriving at camp. The view out of my campsite.
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  • Yellowstone, The Well Known

    25. september 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    What goes up must come down. I sure hope so cause it's cold up here! Last night was the coldest night on the trip so far. 28 degrees F and I was wearing all but one of my shirts, and I had long underwear and socks on. I wasn't uncomfortably cold but cold enough to interrupt my slumber. I'm pretty excited for the day however, because it will be the first sunny day in 3 whole days! Three days without the sun and rainy weather doesn't seem like a lot especially coming from NE, but when you're traveling on a motorcycle and predominately camping, sun is very important.

    After eating breakfast and warming my hands on my stove, it's time to break down camp and wash my cookware. Not exciting when it's still freezing out and the sun has yet to crest the trees. If I wait for the sun, it will be 11 before I'm on the road, so I get to it. Everything is covered in frost, which quickly freezes my hands. Every couple of minutes I do a few jumping jacks, stair climbs on the picnic table bench, and some rapid fire punches into the air aimed at the ground. It you don't know what I'm talking about with the rapid fire punches, yes it looks ridiculous (just like jumping jacks) but yes it also gets your heart pumping and warms you up a bit. Try it some time. I eventually get the bike packed and ready to go. All my gear is on and it's hard to move. I guess the temperature made my jacket and gives a little stiff, as well as the 4 wool shirts I'm wearing underneath. I get on the bike and try and start her up. The starter motor cranks the engine several times and nothing. I wait a couple seconds, and slosh the fluids around in the bike. Attempt number 2 doesn't get the engine started either but it sounds better. I should note that this is the coldest start I've attempted as well as the highest elevation, a double whammy for a carbureted engine. So I was a little unsure I would get the bike started. Luckily for me, the machine I'm riding is very well known for being reliable and simple. Third time's a charm and the bike starts up! Ever since I got into the Tetons (due to the elevation) I'd been having to give it a little gas on the start. I always thought motorcyclists were just showing off when they revved the engine on startup, but there are times where it's necessary and boy does it feel good when that engine cranks over under the power of combustion after a few failed attempts.

    I'm off to see Yellowstone! One of the most well known parts of the US. As I drive to the West thumb of Yellowstone lake it is gorgeous out, but damn it's cold. Luckily the speed limit in the park is only 45mph, so my hands and feet don't totally freeze off. The heated grips that my fine co-workers at CSS got me as a parting gift are doing the trick! I crank em up to 11 and they work like a charm (at least for the palms of my hands, which makes the ride doable and not unbearable). If I didn't have those heated grips, I would have had to pull over and punch the air every 5 miles. So thanks a million if you're reading Amit and crew. I've also put my newly acquired gators to work and they seal up the gap between my boots and pants nicely. When I get to the west thumb, the park is already proving its worth. There are bubbling mud pots and gorgeous hot spring pools. I walk around for a bit, but there is much to see, so I get back on the road. Immediately I am stopped in traffic at the exit of the parking lot. Two elk are walking around near the exit and people decide to stop and gawk. I knew this would happen, but I didn't think it would be so soon. After the jokers in front of me snap their precious photos while blocking the road, I head towards Ol'faithful. To be honest I wasn't that excited to see it since I knew how crowded it would be. Once I got there, I stood off to the side. People were crowding around this one area as if they were going to get the best view because it was in the center. Maybe they were right, but it looked like I was closer. I wait for 10 minutes and the crowd grows bigger. A man with his wife pulls her towards the masses saying, "it's not THAT one (there are three mounds that look to be geysers, the one he pulls her away from is the one with a column of steam steadily flowing out), it's the one that all the people are close to. You just have to see were the biggest crowds are and that's how you know what you should be looking at!" I have the complete opposite view of what I should be looking at. And just as the universe would have it, the geyser that's closest to the center is not old faithful. The one that's closest to me is. I felt bad for that woman, but was happy that that guy was wrong. As for Ol'faithful, it didn't disappoint. I have to say it was more impressive than I thought it would be. What a cool natural phenomenon. That was the theme for the rest of the day. I was in awe at nature. The landscape didn't seem like it was of this world, or at least the world that I knew. I tried to imagine what it must have been like to happen upon these natural wonders without knowing they existed. Then telling my friends what I had seen and sounding crazy.

    The day was going well. I had seen some pretty awesome things, but I had to secure a campsite. I was told by the rangers that campgrounds fill up fast, so get there early. This presented a problem as the campground I wanted to stay at was at the end of my route for the day. If I visited all the places I wanted to see first, it would be 4 or 5 o'clock before I arrived at the campground. My investigation the day before gave me the intel that the camp that I wanted to stay at tonight filled up before 4. It was just after noon when I decided that it was in my best interests to secure a campsite before checking everything else out. That meant a meaningless 60 miles and a loss of two hours, but at least I would have a place to sleep. I wasn't happy about it but I went for it. Luckily the drive was beautiful. Yellowstone was exactly what most Americans wanted, a beautiful landscape full of large wildlife all accessible from the seat in your car or RV. But it also had more to offer. I'll get to that in the next post.

    I finally arrive at Norris campground. Like all national park and forest campgrounds that I've been to on this trip, there is no one at the office and there is a self service pay station that accepts cash or check. I have cash, but not in the correct denomination. This is fine except for the fact that every one of these campgrounds has a host working there, but they never have change and you're usually in the middle of nowhere several miles away from anything. It's somewhat OK because I have more things to see that day which gets me within a few miles of an establishment that can make change. After setting up my tent and dumping some gear and food in the bear box, I head back out to see more of the park. Bison continue to hang out on the side of the road, and I see a few coyotes. The road winds next to meandering rivers and undulates up and down the sides of mountains. The ride is beautiful, the best roads for a motorcycle I've been on. While going to the campground wasn't convenient, it wasn't a waste of time like I had previously thought. It was actually one of the highlights of the day.

    Geyser after geyser, and vista after vista it was finally time to call it. That ever so dangerous dusk was approaching. Hitting an animal in a car is scary, but most likely you will be fine. When you're on two wheels, the animal you hit may come out of the incident with less injury than you. A new concept for me but something I respect and try to avoid.

    Wow what a day. Yellowstone was exactly what I thought it would be and I was still amazed by its beauty and vastness. The park is massive!

    Pictures: My frost covered,... cover over my motorcycle. A beautiful pool at the West Thumb Geyser Basin. Ol'faithful. Another view of Yellowstone lake at the west thumb, a gurgling mud pot in the foreground. Geyser activity in Black Sand Basin. Bacterial mats near Grand Prismatic Spring.
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  • Death Canyon

    23. september 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    My next campsite was at about 8400 feet in death canyon. I get there around 3 and set up camp. Luckily I get there just before the clouds burst open with pea sized hail and a deluge of rain. The hail lasts for about a half hour but the rain doesn't stop till 4am. It hails a few more times in the evening and I'm glad I set my tarp up above my tent. I get a little sleep and manage to stay relatively warm and dry. It's twilight and I peek out of the tent to see if the sun is on its way. I spot a red fox just outside my tent. It quickly darts into the trees as I think it realized I was there. I finally crawl out of my tent and eat breakfast. All the while I am trying to stay warm while I pack up all my wet gear.

    I don't get my hands and feet warmed up till I'm about a half hour into the hike. Today I descend the rest of the way. I'm following moose tracks most of the way down. I get to some switchbacks and the moose tracks go straight up the side of the mountain. Absolutely amazing animals. The morning is filled with a little bit of sun, but as I get close to the trailhead the clouds start to show signs of rain. I reach the bike and start to repack. As I have all of my gear strewn about the parking lot it of course starts rain again. Everything gets wet and I have a few choice words for the unwelcome rain.

    Once everything is packed I head for the visitor center to return the bear canister. While I'm there I get a room using precious Wi-Fi at a Super 8 in Jackson so that I can dry off, warm up, and get a good night's sleep. The hotel is obviously nothing special, but I make the most of it by turning the room into one big clothes line. I grab some food from a nearby grocery store and then pass out.

    The next morning I head for Yellowstone! I wait for the weather to improve a bit as it snowed are higher elevations. The roads were mostly dry when I left the hotel, but the clouds had yet to lift. Even so a little bit of mountain and a whole lot of fall color is showing. The ride is beautiful, but it continues to cool as I ascend again. Here I come Yellowstone.

    First stop is camp. I set up at Lewis Lake (7800 ft) and then make a b-line for the visitor center and back country office. I get a permit for two nights from now and plan on seeing some touristy attractions the next day. I get back to camp and make some new friends who have a fire going. I warm up and engage in some basic get to know you conversion before climbing into my tent. It's going to be a cold night.

    Pictures: Super 8 drying rack. Tetons on my way to Yellowstone.
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  • Marion Lake

    22. september 2016, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    The next morning I head to the visitor center, pick out a hike, and make my way to the trailhead. I rented a pack in Jackson the night before, and the park requires you to take a bear canister with you. I pack my pack and the bear canister doesn't fit. I have to use my cargo net to secure it to the bottom of the pack. By the time I've found the trailhead (one of the roads was closed between the visitor center and the trail so I have to drive into Jackson and back up into the park, about an hour of driving) and packed my pack, it's 1:30 before I embark on a 9 mile hike. I know i have no time to waste so I get to it.

    The hike is absolutely stunning. I'm hiking with a mission, so I don't even realize how steep the trail is. I only realized after the hike when I descended for two days how much I had climbed. The trailhead is at 6356 ft, and my campsite for the first night is somewhere in the 9200 ft range in about 9 miles. I start the hike at 1:30 and arrive at camp around 5:30. Needless to say I was sore the next day. It was threatening to rain the last two hours of the hike, and luckily it held off till is set up camp. I took a quick dip in the lake to rinse off, it was glacially cold. And passed out till the rain and wind woke me up. The rain was light throughout the night but the wind made my tent and tarp flap around. Luckily the morning brought a few minutes of sun. The rain held off for most of the day.

    Pictures, I don't have any to share on this one. I saved my phone battery in case of emergency.
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