Pieman River Cruise

December 2022
Boat trip on the remote Pieman River on Tasmania's west coast Read more
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  • Day 1

    Beginning

    December 16, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We are going to the Pieman River, primarily to do the cruise. We did the Arthur River cruise a couple of years ago. There we met Trevor and Sarah and we have been trying for a while to find convenient dates for us all to go on this trip.
    The night before we leave we host a Christmas dinner for Rob, Susan and Suzie. Not the perfect preparation, but it was the only suitable date. And we had a really good time.
    On the Friday morning we first see Calum who arrives as we are leaving. He is starting a fence and courtyard walls. We organised him months ago, but of course, his availability coincides with our trip away. He will be installing the posts only while we are away. Hopefully he will get them in the right places.
    We drive along the (now familiar) Frankford Road towards Devonport. Familiar because we drove along it the day before yesterday to go to Devonport for some work on the car. First stop is Big Pot Nursery because we always need plants to fill our empty-ish garden. We browse - always a pleasure - and buy a dozen small groundcovers and screening plants (buddleias).
    Next stop is at Oliver's Bakery in Ulverstone. We have coffee and a catchup with Rob (a friend not the cousin). He will be framing a picture for us. While there we get a message from Trevor. He and Sarah can't come. Both have just returned from Hong Kong, Sarah has Covid. (Trevor catches it also the next day.) Bugger. But we are on the way, so will keep going.
    Scenic coastal drive to Penguin for our packed lunch overlooking the beach.
    We are staying at Tullah tonight and tomorrow. Not far along the very good Murchison Highway. We had turned off at Burnie.
    Our accommodation is at the Tullah Lakeside Lodge. Primarily for mining workers, it is utilitarian but the bar/restaurant overlooks Lake Rosebery and today looks its best in the sunshine.
    We have pre-dinner drinks outside looking at the lake then dinner in the restaurant. Satisfactory.
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  • Day 2

    Waterfalls

    December 17, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Glorious weather again next day (Sat). After breakfast we drive through Rosebery to the parking area for Montezuma Falls. It is advertised as 1.5 hours each way, so quite a long walk. It is along a former tramway beside (and mostly well above) the river. Lovely thick rainforest. Glad we have a path. We see a few other groups of people, mostly younger and faster than us. We take our time, strolling, looking at the flora and the river. There are lots of boggy places which we gingerly try to skirt as best we can. Most fellow walkers wear Blundstone clodhoppers so blast straight through the soggy bits. Rest break. The walk takes an hour and 25 minutes, so the advertised time is correct. We have another packed lunch at the falls. A fellow walker takes our photo and tells us about Anthony Road (stunning views - tomorrow) heading towards Queenstown.
    We spend some time at the falls. Absolutely majestic. 104m high with plenty of water flowing after the recent rains. We venture onto the narrow swaying suspension bridge which is a long way above the river.
    We walk back to the car a bit faster. A couple we meet had just seen a large tiger snake blocking the track. "We threw lots of stones at it to get it to move off the track." Our progress slowed from here. Every stick and piece of bark looked like a snake in the dappled sunlight.
    Safely back to the car. Back in Rosebery we looked at the unsung Stitt Falls.
    A little very interesting cricket on TV, Australia v South Africa. Again we dined in the Lakeside Bar & Grill, and again the dinner was adequate. We leave tomorrow.
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  • Day 3

    Tullah to Corinna

    December 18, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Now it is Sunday. We leave Tullah and drive along Anthony Road towards Queenstown. It is a nice drive, but not as scenically exciting as we had hoped. The drive skirts Lake Plimsoll for part of its length.
    We remember Queenstown from 2018 when we stayed for a couple of nights. Hasn't changed much. One change is the Moonscape Winebar and Cafe. We enjoy a nice coffee in the sunny beer garden. "We had 50 people here last night. All locals."
    Then to Strahan. The older family-owned cruise company, World Heritage Cruises, looks the best option for a future Gordon River cruise. Lunch at The Coffee Shack (can't read the caption on the photo), then to Zeehan with a visit to Mt Zeehan. Can't get there (see photo), although Google Maps says you can.
    We drive through Zeehan, remembering our visit to the Pitstop Cafe 4 years ago. Between us and Corinna is quite a long stretch of winding, potholey dirt road. And a very expensive trip across the river on the small punt. We called in to Port Granville. Very remote. Once at Corinna we find our cabin. Small secluded and comfortable, it contains all you need.
    Lovely deck for sundowners, then another lovely deck at the Tarkine Hotel for Happy Hour. The waitress took our order while we sat out in the evening sunshine. Very civilised. We had a really nice dinner in the Tannin Restaurant.
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  • Day 4

    Cruise then Home - Long Day

    December 19, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today is Monday, the last day of our trip. Yesterday on the cruise there were over 30 people. Today only 11 have booked. Lucky. We arise reasonably early, in time for Tony to experience a cold trickle instead of a shower. Very uncomfortable.
    Delicious hot Ursula-cooked breakfast made up for it. I need not say that her shower had been perfect.
    We check out (they gave us a refund for Tony's inconvenience) then make our way to the Arcadia 2, a historic 70-year-old Huon pine and Tasmanian oak motor launch. Our captain and guide is Tony (remembered by army sign language: toe, knee, leech (pointing to his cheek). Lovely peaceful cruise right to the mouth of the Pieman River. Much less commentary about the animals and trees than our previous Arthur River experience. Tony did explain that the forest is largely eucalypts on the southern side and sassafras, Huon pine and others on the northern side. Marije, our hostess, provided morning tea featuring fruit cake, and other treats. She also told us about the world cup final last night. Nail-biting match. Penalty shootout. She was very pleased. (She comes from Argentina.)
    1.5 hours out, 1.5 hours there, 1.5 hours back.
    We disembark at Pieman Heads, a haphazard collection of shacks. Pleasant walk along the shore to the beach. We soaked up the remote feeling and the surf, wind and sunshine. The cruise provided a packed lunch which we enjoyed, comfortably seated on a trailer.
    We arrived back at Corinna at about 2:30 then were faced with the drive home.
    Narrow dirt road at first. We drive through Savage River (mining) then reach Waratah. Now the road is sealed. We admire the town and particularly the waterfall, then continue to West Coast (a village) where we exit the Murchison Highway and turn toward Sheffield. We stop at a lookout where we can gaze at Cradle Mountain, together with a group of young European tourists. After driving through Sheffield we then reach the highway at Elizabeth Town. Direct trip home. Arrived at about 6:30. Long drive today. Great few days away.
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