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Laurie Reynolds
Laurie Reynolds

Laurie Reynolds

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Whales!

    9. maj 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today we visited the north side of the island, just as beautiful as the south. We went to a second whaling museum, this one located in the old factory where the whale was turned into oil, vitamins, flour, and manure — all in one place. Post-industrial fabulous. The only parts of the whale that were not used were its heart and intestines. Those were rowed out to sea and dumped in the ocean, but they inevitably wound their way back to shore, bringing a huge stink with them.

    But the afternoon was for the real whales — we saw a bunch of sperm whales, whose tails flip up when they dive and it is beautiful. And the dolphins, must have been about 30 dolphins all leaping in unison. It was really something. And I now have an answer to the question — When was the last time you did something for the first time?

    I did not bother to try to catch fleeting glimpses of whales and porpoises with my phone camera. Much more enjoyable to just watch.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    No whale-watching today!

    8. maj 2019, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    We woke up to rain and wind, and no surprise, our whale-watching trip was cancelled. They re-booked us for tomorrow afternoon, fingers crossed. Staying with the whaling theme, we went to the whaling museum and saw a fascinating documentary. Pico was the last place on the planet where they still went out in a small boat with about 8 men to harpoon whales. The movie was filmed in 1970 and shows it all, start to bloody finish. Pretty amazing feat of courage, no matter what you think of the practice itself. The year harpooning stopped, about 1987, a German man opened up Pico’s first whale-watching business, employing many of the men who would no longer be hunting whales.

    The rest of the day alternated between foggy/windy/rainy and occasional bursts of sun. We got out and walked whenever we could, lots of empty country lanes near the ocean. Nothing but grape vines, bright green fields, and cows. All in all, not a bad day, finished off with a trip to the pretty basic fitness center.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Ferry to Faial

    7. maj 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Days don’t get much better than this. Carpe diem!

    We took an 8 am ferry over to the island of Faial, a short 30 minute hop, where the sun shone all day and the views back over our island with its big volcano were amazing.

    We spent the day at two volcano sites, one recent (1958) (we could see orange roof tiles popping up from the ashes, a small whaling village was destroyed), and the other one hundreds of years ago with a huge green crater. And then just driving around, the island’s perimeter is only 50 km so we could deviate from the main circular road a lot. We have learned that whenever a sign points you towards a “miradouro” (scenic lookout), take the turn!

    And now here we sit out on our balcony with a glass of Douro wine, a view of the ocean, and listening to the waves crashing. Clouds are rolling in with a vengeance, so tomorrow might not be quite as perfect as today.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Loving Pico island

    6. maj 2019, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    So far, not much rain, and even one whole day of sun! We have walked and walked, along the coast and up high near the volcano. Today we took a long guided walk through a “lava tube”, formed about 1500 years ago when the volcano erupted and some of the lava pushed out sideways. Very different from your average cave. Joe was almost the oldest person to have ever walked through, but last year an 82-year old did it. It was a very difficult rocky path, no lights, slippery, but he made it!

    The vineyards are a UNESCO world heritage site. The vines are all in very small handmade rock enclosures, built hundreds of years ago. The vines grow right on the lava. I have never seen anything like it.

    In a little chapel to Our Lady of Compassion I lit a bunch of (electric) candles on the theory that we could all use a little compassion. Very nice place for some reflection.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    On the island of Pico

    4. maj 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    By 10:30 am, we were in our rental car and driving around the island of Pico. Volcano in the middle and lava flows everywhere. Our hotel is amazing, Aldeia da Fonte. Five old village houses turned into a hotel “complex”. Right on the water, lots of walking paths.

    Weather was a little bit of everything-cloudy, rainy, and then spectacularly sunny.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Last day in Lisbon

    3. maj 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Normal routine the last couple of days, different today in that instead of a post-gym café-and-plaza seeking expedition, it was a trip to the laundromat. Two loads to wash and dry was over 20 €, but five years ago these modern inventions were unknown in Portugal. So I am not complaining!!

    Tomorrow we leave on an early morning flight to Pico Island, where the weather forecast is for six days of rain. We’ve seen these kinds of forecasts in the Azores before, and I think/hope we’ll get some sun every now and then. Fingers crossed, goodbye Lisbon. We will be back on May 14 and leave for the US the next day.

    I’ve already reserved a reservation for our last night at a highly touted restaurant near our hotel where we have repeatedly failed to get reservations even a day or two in advance. Bistro4, here we come.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Plan C

    1. maj 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Strikes, demonstrations, and a half marathon made our day a bit complicated but in the end we walked 20,000 steps, had a great ride on the Tram 28, and were able to enjoy many gorgeous “sitting stops” in plazas with great views. Back to work tomorrow.Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Metro, classes, gym, plazas, repeat

    30. april 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Our Lisbon life has settled into a routine. Up early, metro to class, metro home to fitness center in hotel, then a few hours in plazas around town.
    With a meal in a good restaurant to top it off

    Today I met with a wonderful friend who is now a justice on the Portuguese Supreme Court, and as always it was as if there had not been a year’s gap since I had seen her.

    Tomorrow, another national holiday, May 1, so our routine has been short-lived.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Romanesque church-going

    28. april 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Our main objective of the day was to visit three romanesque churches, scattered in little villages around the Douro Valley. It made for spectacular driving to out of the way places. I will say, though, that Portuguese romanesque is just not as beautiful as what I see all the time in Spain. Joe says he has had his fill for a while, can’t say I blame him, but he was a good trooper.

    When we wanted to head back to Lisbon, we were in the middle of nowhere and had to cross a pretty desolate part of the country to get to the highway. All’s well that ends well, back in Lisbon for the second week of classes.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Rivers and vineyards

    27. april 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Oh, wow, what a day. We made about a 75 km circle that took us up and down and around, to a neolithic hill fort in Sabrosa, to the Mateus estate (how can such a beautiful place produce such bad wine?! — maybe that’s unfair because maybe I have only had the really cheap rosé wine in the brown ceramic bottle that we used to burn candles in so they would drip all over the bottle. )

    The townspeople were making a carpet of flowers for tomorrow’s procession of the Virgen das Prazeres. They told us they had started at 7 am and would finish by 3 am. Mass at 7 sharp and then the procession to destroy their 20 hours of work.

    From there all through vineyards, down to the river and then back up again, each vista more gorgeous than the last. We ended with a trip up to the miradouro in Casal de Loivos, which I had remembered from previous trips.

    We will finish off the day with dinner in a fairly fancy place, DOC, right on the river about a 15 minute walk from our lovely Quinta da Azenha.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Up to the Douro Valley

    26. april 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We always take a weekend trip during our two week Lisbon stay. We haven’t been to the Douro Valley in a few years, and it seemed like a great time of year, so here we are. Class was over at 12:30, we were at the airport by 2, in our rental car about an hour later.

    The drive was straightforward, except for the fact that I first went to the CASA da Azenha, instead of the QUINTA da Azenha. Luckily they are only 10 km apart! This is a centuries’ old renovated stone house up and looking right over the river. It is close to two good restaurants, so no driving for food is necessary. I am right now sitting on a terrace looking out at the scene you see in these pics. Joe is resting. I think it’s a no brainer who made the better decision!    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    National holiday, April 25

    26. april 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The day of the Carnation Revolution, 45 years ago. Not a shot was fired. The army officers, tired of fascism, I guess, went into the president and prime minister’s offices and said, it’s time to go. We don’t want to hurt you, so get in this tank and we will take you to the airport so you can go to Brazil. Yesterday we saw those tanks being driven on their historical route, pretty cool.

    We spent the day with good Portuguese friends, two economists Joe has known for years. First to eat baby goat, I guess cabrito translates as kid. The restaurant, about 20 km out of Lisbon, was mobbed, and everyone was eating the same thing.

    Then a trip to the Universidade Nova’s new building about 20 km outside of Lisbon, on the river. Pretty astonishing, They even have their own private tunnel under the road to get to the beach, and conveniently the sheds for all their aquatic sports (ocean sports to the right, river sports to the left) are right there.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Gulbenkian Museum and Olive Oil

    24. april 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Second day of classes and tomorrow is another holiday. I met Joe at the Gulbenkian Museum after class- an obligatory stop every year.

    Then a quick trip to the Corte Inglés supermarket where I got another 8 liters of oil. According to the weight of my bags when I came over, I can bring back more than 100 pounds of oil, but that would be excessive. :-)

    We made it home before the rain and we’re lucky that it had stopped before a delicious dinner at a new recommended place, Quermesse. It’s in the Praça Alegria (Happy Square) but the last time I visited years ago nothing legal was going on. Tourists must be pushing out the drug trade.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Payback time -- time to teach

    23. april 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    First day of Introduction to US Property Law. 38 students, a mix of Portuguese, other Europeans, and a group from Macao (former colony, which is still governed by the19th century Portuguese Civil Code). I always enjoy teaching here because the students are undergrads unlike US law students—which makes them less jaded and more “innocent.”

    Though a cab to the school from our hotel would be under 10 € and take 1/3 the time, I just can’t bring myself to abandon the lovely Lisbon metro. It’s a great sociological observation— so many different people, all going somewhere.

    After a few torrential downpours, all of which I missed while in class, the sun came out in late afternoon, and we took a walk through another favorite part of downtown.

    Last night we had a traditional Portuguese meal ( not fish— no Lisboeta eats fish on Monday because fish markets are closed on Saturday and Sunday, so it can’t be fresh). Tonight we went for Indian—Tamarind Restaurant near our hotel — Excellent!!    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Breakfast, gym, and a long walk

    22. april 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Lisbon sits on many hills, so there are lots of “miradouros” (scenic look-out plazas is my awkward translation). We decided to head for two located on hills near the castle— these are not the most popular but the views are great—Nossa Senhora da Monte and Graca. Lunch in a little pastelaria where we sat outside in old Lisbon and had a homemade lunch for 9 € for the two of us!

    Back to the hotel for a total of 19,752 steps according to my phone. While Joe rested, I went on my first oil-scouting expedition. Making good headway!

    Tomorrow it’s down to work for two days. Then Thursday is The national holiday commemorating the Carnation Revolution-saying goodbye to fascism without firing a shot.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Travel Day

    20. april 2019, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    It’s usually not much fun to get from Point A to Point B, especially not if the people who booked your ticket give you a 6 hour layover in Philadelphia! For these long travel days, I always try to get up very early to get to the gym, on the theory that I will feel better and maybe sleep a bit on the plane. So today at 5 am I was up and out. My Silver Sneakers gym is open 24/7 with a little purple thing to swipe, and there are always a few more nut cases like me there so it’s not too lonely.

    We are headed to Lisbon — unbelievable though it seems to me, this will be the sixteenth consecutive year I have taught a short course at the law school in the Católica. Cannot believe it!

    At the airport I weighed my bags to calculate how much olive oil I can cram in them on the way home. One of my favorite pastimes in Lisbon is buying lots of olive oil for my Berkeley crew, who has figured out that they use about 36 liters a year. I have been keeping up with that demand for about 6 years now and hope to extend it for a few more, at least till I am too feeble to lug all this around. Oil is lighter than water, though!

    We arrived in PHL and made our way over to the Lego Liberty Bell and thus began our long layover. Only 5 hours till boarding time now! We will go straight to Lisbon, arriving around 9 am tomorrow morning. Easter Sunday, so it should be a slow day.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsGirfriends’ trip to San JuanLaurie Reynolds

    Heading home

    16. april 2019, Puerto Rico ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    After a three hour four course tasting menu last night at Marmalade we made it back to our Inn (Old San Juan is beautiful at night.) and wound up gabbing till 2. Way too late.

    Marmalade had an after dinner drink named I’m peach mint. Tag line after the description—order a second one and I’ll get México to pay for it. 😄

    No need for breakfast this morning but we took a walk for coffee and grandkid t-shirts. Now we’re at the airport, saying goodbye— till next years GTG.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsGirfriends’ trip to San JuanLaurie Reynolds

    Enjoying Old San Juan

    15. april 2019, Puerto Rico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We woke up this morning with no idea of what we were going to do. Breakfast first, in a great outdoor cafe. Then a couple of hours circling the governmental capital. Beautiful capitol building, statues of every U.S president who has visited. So far Trump’s statue has not been erected, but we think he should be represented with a roll of paper towels in his hand.

    We hopped in a cab and went to the closed Puerto Rican Museum of Art. But it has lovely gardens, and we got to see the weekly iguana hunt. The guards told us that the have between 30 and 80 babies per year and eat everything in sight. Saw a Botero statue and sat on benches in the shade gabbing away.

    Tonight we have a fancy dinner in a restaurant called Marmalade, and then tomorrow we head home. Old San Juan is a great place for a short break. Lots of walking, beautiful views, and great food.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsGirfriends’ trip to San JuanLaurie Reynolds
    1

    In Old San Juan

    14. april 2019, Puerto Rico ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Four of us who started together at Illiois years and years ago have since separated and are now teaching in Pennsylvania, Arizona, and Nevada. I am the only one still at Illinois. We are now in year 13 of an annual trip, and this year our choice was San Juan. We are in a hotel right on the water, spread across a number of colonial houses with nooks and crannies, lots of little outdoor patios, called The Gallery Inn. There’s a rooftop patio looking straight out over th watr, it is glorious.

    These trips are not for touring and museums, mainly for just walking and talking and eating. We got here yesterday afternoon and had our first meal of mofongos. We were all pretty exhausted because two had been on the red-eyes and the other two had left home on 5 am flights. In bed by 11, up at 8 and then the day was just as we envisioned — started with a good coffee, then a saunter through Old San Juan, lunch in a great little empanada place. After that we went to the forts, pretty amazing. We just walked and talked and ate, just as we had planned.

    Many of the old colonial houses have been restored since the hurricaine, so the old part looks amazing. We are so lucky to be able to do this, here’s hoping for many more.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Last Day in Rome

    7. januar 2019, Italien ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    So, this morning as I was mapping out a walk to some of the parts of the city we hadn’t visited, I decided to check Vatican tickets for the day. And tickets were available, so we decided to head back, visit St. Peter’s, and go to the Vatican Museums.

    There were no lines to get into the church so we sailed through security and were inside in no time. The basilica is overwhelming, the size of everything is so giant. Some of the statues of popes really made them look human, though, even at that size. I am glad we went. My favorite part was walking to the top of the cupola — Joe took the elevator but then had to walk the last couple hundred steps anyway. The views from the top were great, and it was another crystal clear sunny day.

    We were exhausted by the time we left the Vatican, about three hours after entering. I understand why they leave the Sistine Chapel till the end, but it was hard to feel bright eyed after hours of statuary, papal apartments, and Raphael rooms. The colors are just as brilliant as they look in pictures, and I particularly liked the Noah’s Ark panel. All in all, a good way to end the trip.

    Tomorrow we will be up at 4:30 for a 5:15 car to the airport. Yikes. Going through London, glad it’s before Brexit!    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Museum Day

    6. januar 2019, Italien ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    We slept in a bit, no need to rush, and since it is January 6 (Epiphany), it’s even more of a holiday than Sunday usually is. Our hotel had tons of special traditional sweets at breakfast, added to the overabundance of sweets they serve on normal days!

    I was skeptical about these museums (the National Museum of Rome has two locations about 5 minutes apart from each other, one on each side of the train station), but I have changed my tune. The first had the best statuary that’s been found in Rome, some Greek, some Roman, and mosaics and frescoes from two huge villas excavated in the 1900s, one of them under the Termini train station!

    After a couple of hours at the museum, we took a break in an old 19th century cafe where we got the Italian equivalent of sliders for lunch. Very tasty and a nice break from the pasta, pizza routine.

    Then to the second musum, which is located inside what were the largest public baths (capacity for 3000 bathers, with a huge outdoor pool as well). It was really interesting, and we also got to walk around a cloister designed by Michaelangelo at age 86, when the pope converted part of the baths into a church, to recognize the 40,000 Christian slaves who built the baths.

    With another hour or so of daylight, we hoofed it over to see the Colisseum in late afternoon, as opposed to early morning, light. Very nice both ways!!!    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Walk till you drop

    5. januar 2019, Italien ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    Today was our walk walk walk day with no museums. But we did start with a church (Santa Maria in Trastevere) and end with a church (Santa Maria Maggiore), because both of them had amazing mosaics spanning the 5th - 12th centuries. In between we just walked and enjoyed the sunny day — along the river, to St. Peter’s (the crowds and the lines even to get into the basilica made us decide to skip an inside visit), to Hadrian´s mauseoulum, to Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, the Colosseum, many ruins of temples, forums, and theaters.

    Since last night’s dinner at Crispi 19 was very good but just too much pretense (many different waiters for different functions, including one whose only job seemed to be to use that bread-crumb-remover on the tablecloths), we’re looking for something above paper tablecloths, but not fine linen.

    Only two more days here, and I guess it’s only fair that tomorrow I go along to the National Museum, since Joe was such a good sport today.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Still cold, but sunny in Rome

    4. januar 2019, Italien ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Lesson to self: Buy fast train tickets a few days in advance. We could only get seats on the 10:40 “intercity” train, and to add insult to injury, we sat on the tracks somewhere between Palermo and Rome for 45 minutes. Luckily, I have a couple of good books. We didn’t get to our Rome hotel till about 2 in the afternoon, had a quick lunch, and walked around for a couple of hours to get our bearings. We are in a good location, not far from Trajan’s column. The Trevi Fountain was mobbed mobbed mobbed, much more crowded than my pictures showed from spring break 1995.

    Planning to get a good fish dinner and plan a walking route for tomorrow. Probably no museums tomorrow, but we will see. Three days in Rome is not much time, but we will do our best.    Læs mere

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  • Laurie ReynoldsChristmas in Italy 2018Laurie Reynolds

    Osteria dei Sapori -- Salerno

    3. januar 2019, Italien ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    So if you dream of eating in a non-touristy, small, family-run osteria in Italy, this is the place for you. In a 7-table place, with food options written on a piece of paper, we were the only foreigners over the two hours we were there. The entire operation took place in one small room. Dad was the cook, mom his assistant, daughter did everything else (except wash the dishes—there was a woman over in the corner continuously washing and drying). The food was excellent, the family so hospitable, and even with the most expensive bottle of wine at 25 euros, our bill was 80 euros. And that was with two courses each, and one dessert.

    Very nice way to end our stay here.    Læs mere

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