• Alpera to Alatoz, 27 km

    17 maggio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The first three days of this camino were in the mountains. Lots of huffing and puffing on steep ascents, spectacular views at the top, and some descents requiring lots of attention and careful picking of the rocky route down. Then came a couple of days, like the one from Villena to Caudete or Caudete to Almansa, that were flat, brown, monotonous, dull, exposed, alongside the highway. Those are the penitential days. You just walk. But the last two days fall somewhere in the middle. Varied terrain, all off-road, little settlements, varied crops, steady ascents where you just get in your stride, feel the breeze, and ooze with gratitude for being alive. Though there aren’t many flowers, there are a million shades of green—grapevines, almond trees, olive trees, wheat, scrub oak, some corn even. And an occasional poppy field.

    It was a 27 Km today and it felt good all the way. I stopped for a long rest after the ascent. Though my body was delighted to have the pack removed, I had had none of the lower back pain from the days before. I’m sure all the stretching has had something to do with it, but more importantly I reread the message from @El Cascayal about how to pack a pack to eliminate back strain. Thank you Aymarah..Several major modifications seemed to have worked a charm.

    I’m in a newly renovated Casa Rural. It’s beautiful 35€ the night. In fact, only one other person has slept in the house. It’s been redone by a local family that has decided to renovate several places here and has done so with great attention to historical details. After a lunch in the cousins’ restaurant, I walked out to the old flour factory where the family is restoring the building and the mill itself. Clearly labors of love.
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  • Almansa to Alpera

    16 maggio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    24 Km, 400 m elevation.
    Though there is still a lot of scrub land and barren rocky mountain escarpment, today’s short walk offered a much more pleasant landscape. There was more undulation, more bright green vineyards, a Civil War bunker, some flocks, and occasional small bursts of red poppies. I have been told that the shortage of wildflowers has to do with the drought, which certainly makes sense.

    We’re in a town of a few thousand, Alpera. The last time I was here, I slept in the albergue on its first day of operation. Tonight I’m sleeping in the Hostsl Cazador, a roadside place with a decent restaurant attached. The last time I was here, the mayor had the local guide drive us up to a cave about 7 Km away with paintings that are between 10,000 and 20,000 years old. The supreme disappointment was that the paintings, in pristine condition when they were found in 1910, have deteriorated so much that the only way to “see” the figures was to look at the drawing and then squint over at the wall where the guide was pointing. The deterioration was caused by the fact that the villagers threw water on the paintings to make them more brilliant. After 50 or 60 years, they were virtually impossible to see. So I did not try to get up there this time.

    Having so much time in a village of about 2,000 can be relaxing or boring. Today it’s relaxing. My lower back has been acting up, so I am spending more time stretching. There’s a good fruit store in town, and the square livens up when the kids get home from school, so those will be the afternoon attractions.

    And as frequently happens, a little diversion popped up. We saw a sign for a pozo de nieve, a snow well, where snow was stored and turned into ice. I learned that, even though these structures tend to have a fair amount of construction above ground, the inside goes down about 20 m into the ground, which is where the snow was stored. The above ground structure was there to provide insulation, and to give access to the snow/ice. This one was built in the 16th century.
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  • Caudete to Almansa

    15 maggio 2023, Spagna

    The scenery is settling into flat land and cultivated fields. Mountains are now in the rear view mirror. Since it’s springtime, the crops are growing (lettuce, wheat, artichokes, corn) and the trees are green (lots of olives, almonds, and other fruit trees I can’t identify). But the surrounding hills and rocky outcrops are brown and desolate. We are not in wildflower country, which I was sort of expecting. But the landscape makes for more introspection, as the backdrop doesn’t grab my attention as much. So the hours are filled with thought about trivial things, interesting things, and even important things on occasion. But I have not yet solved any of life’s greatest problems.

    I have walked a route that crisscrosses with this one —the Levante from Valencia. The next two nights will be in places I’ve been before. For those who wonder why I would ever go back to the same place, here’s a passage from a Portuguese. Nobel prize winner, that I really love.

    "The end of one journey is simply the start of another. You have to see what you missed the first time, see again what you already saw, see in springtime what you saw in summer, in daylight what you saw at night, see the sun shining where you saw the rain falling, see crops growing, the fruit ripen, the stone which has moved, the shadow that was not there before. You have to go back to the footsteps already taken, to go over them again or add fresh ones alongside them.You have to start the journey anew. Always"
    Jose Saramago, A Journey to Portugal

    After a delicious lunch, it was time to visit the castle. All I can say is - fabulous.
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  • First long day 38 km to Caudete

    14 maggio 2023, Spagna ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    When I was a young peregrina in her 60s, I found I really enjoyed stages in the 35-40 km range. Now it’s getting much harder. Today the choices were two days of 21 and 17 or one day of 38. I decided to give the longer option a try. Having an “extra” day open up is a nice cushion.

    So it was an early start. Beautiful invigorating climb and then a flat stretch in pine forests. But not one animal other than rabbits did we see. In the pretty town of Biar, nothing was open. So on we went to Villena. Had a good rest and an excellent bocadillo there.

    The Villena museum houses the Treasure of Argar, an amazing gold cache from 6,000 years ago. It looks stunning. As luck would have it, the museum is closed for renovation. Next time!!!

    The stretch from Villena to Caudete is mind-numbing. Flat, flat, flat. Lots of ag lands. Thankfully very little on asphalt. The one interesting thing was to see many people planting vine shoots covered with red wax in rows no more than an inch apart. It was explained to me that they grow here till a certain height and are then transplanted. I don’t really see the point but then I am not an entrepreneur.

    We are in the small town of Caudete, where everything is closed on a Sunday evening. So glad to have walked this stage with no mishaps.

    Tomorrow Almansa. I was hoping to explore the castle again (I stayed here when i walked the Levante) but tomorrow is Monday!
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  • Torremanzanas to Onil

    13 maggio 2023, Spagna

    We had a choice of a 29 Km day or a 20 Km day. Though the 20 Km town, Ibi, looks like it would have been a nicer place to stay, we weren’t ready to stop since it was pretty early. We had already done the big elevation for the day, so it wasn’t much of an additional effort to go those extra 8 or 9 flat kilometers.

    The first 20 kms this morning were wonderful. Up up up for about 800 m and then some great views. We had some fog at the beginning, but when it broke we could see the ocean and Alicante, about 25 miles away. There was also a pozo de nieve/pou de neve, where snow was brought from as far away as France (thanks Elaine) and stored till warmer months, when it served to refrigerate food. We were standing there enjoying the views when a Seat 600 came up. That was the only car in Spain in 1970 when I lived there and it brought back all sorts of memories. I took a 600 km trip as one of three people in the backseat. If you could see the size of the backseat, you would marvel.

    When we got to Ibi, we went to the bar/restaurant recommended by Alan, the Cordobés. The place was closing because the town was in fiestas and they needed to prepare the place for their lunch guests. But when they saw that we were walking, and when they heard that Alan had been here in 2018, they cleared a space for us. Our waiter has been here since 2004 and is an avid hiker. He says he remembers Alan, but who knows. I took a picture.

    We got to Onil around 2 pm. It’s a non-descript highway hotel but has a restaurant that was packed and booked out. We had a very good lunch, but now there is really nothing to do. That’s one of the disadvantages of a roadside hotel. There is a castle about 3,Km away but it is closed. So I have to contain myself with washing my clothes, doing my stretches, and hopefully having a few WhatsApp conversations with home.

    The tracker function on my FindPenguins app seems to be going berserko, so, if you want to see what we’ve actually walked, the GPS tracks can be found on Wikiloc, peregrina2000.

    https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatialArtifact…
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  • Relleu to Torremanzanas

    12 maggio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Last night before I went to bed, I sat on the balcony of my pretty room, looking over the pretty square and the pretty church. The church bells struck nine as I went to bed. Little did I know that they would strike every hour on the hour all night. Funny thing was I slept fine, waking up every hour for a few minutes and then going right back to sleep.

    One of the perks of staying in a beautiful rustic Casa Rural is that you’re likely to get a good breakfast. This one was terrific. Good bread, good manchego, jamón serrano, avocados, tomatoes all went into a delicious toasted sandwich. More melon than I could eat and delicious Greek yoghurt. And did I mention the good coffee?! The owners, a retired Swedish couple, are wonderful.

    Our walk was short (19 Km) but had about 750 m of ascent. The first part, up to the pass, was through terraced olive and almond groves, with the occasional vines thrown in. Puig Campana was always in our sights till we went over the pass. Then we spent most of the rest of the walk in pine forests with its heavenly pine needle surface.

    Although the Municipal refuge for Pilgrims has just re-opened, I had already made a reservation in a hotel here in town. The owner, who is off on a motorcycle trip with her husband, asked her sister to come open up the complex for us. It’s a very nice place, lots of gardens, some bungalows, a good playground, etc. so very nice of these places to open just for those who are walking.

    We’ve had a good, filling meal in a very friendly place, and they have told us to just stay put till the thunder and lightening have passed. Spain is so very much in drought that we have to hope for rain, but we would appreciate it if it would start after we walk!

    Tomorrow will be a much longer day, but right now all is well with the world.
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  • First day to Relleu. 20 km, 500 m up

    11 maggio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    This four day alternative of the Lana goes through a much less industrialized and less developed part of the region. Our first day, I met Alun at 7 o’clock in the train station as we were going to Villajoyosa. The train is very efficient and goes right along the coast, which has a lot of overbuilding in my opinion.

    From Villajoyosa, after a café con leche, started walking. It was a late start, probably close to 9 AM, but since we had a short day, it was OK. We were lucky that it was cloudy, because there would not have been any shade. At about the halfway point, in Orxeta, we had a cold drink, (my first Fanta de Limón), and from there the trail got interesting. Mostly off-road, lots of great views of punishing looking rocky hills/ mountains. By about one we were in our destination, Relleu.

    Our somewhat pricey accommodation for today was Casa de los indianos, a heavily restored and very comfortable place from the 18th century. I had my first menú del dia in a down-home local place. Too much food, but I ate it all!

    After lunch, we walked up to the castle ruins. It’s a 12 century Moorish castle, pretty heavily destroyed. But the views, oh, the views. I’m back in my room now and will be asleep in less than an hour for sure. I am getting back in the Camino groove and had a great first day with no big muscle or foot problems, which is a huge stroke of good luck and fills me with gratitude.
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  • Arrived in Alicante

    10 maggio 2023, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    It’s beautiful here, mid to high 70s (but that’s actually hot for walking in the sun), lots of palm trees, and a castle up on a rocky promontory with views out over the ocean and massive, modern beach development all around.

    The flight from the US was fine though it was a long day, and I had four hours in the Madrid Airport this morning. But it was still the most convenient way to get here, because the trains would have arrived even later than my flight

    First things 1st – send a box of goodies (like canned pumpkin, vanilla chai, and Dentyne gum,) to my friends in Madrid. The line was long and it took me an hour. But then I went to the Vodafone store, and there was no one, so that even things out. I got my Spanish Sim card with 100 GB of data, unlimited Spain calls and hundreds of international minutes. All for a whopping €15 per 4 weeks. So much cheaper than in the US. A few more errands and then I checked in to my very basic hotel Cervantes.

    After my shower, I hightailed it up to the castle, on a rock about 200 m above sea level. I walked around the old town after that, lots of pretty plazas and of course some old churches. I got my first stamp, so I am ready to start walking early tomorrow. But now I am ready for bed and hoping I will sleep well.
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  • Easter Sunday - Home Again

    9 aprile 2023, Stati Uniti ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Oh, wait, I forgot to add some pictures of our miniature golf trip last night. The kids loved it, even the 4 yo who was doing pretty well! There were 9 of us, so I was the odd guy out, and I volunteered to carry the beer for the grownups (What, BEER in a miniature golf course — that must be why our kids were the only ones under 21).

    Magically, the Easter Bunny had made a special stop in Austin and even hid eggs for the young-uns to hunt for. Then, off to chcurch, one last hug in a park, and the airport beckoned. Everyone went separately, but as we were going through Security we heared an ominous “final call, Love party of 6…” Miraculously, they made it. I am not one of those who likes to cut it close, so here we sit in the Austin airport with another 40 minutes before boarding.

    So many good memories, so much fun for everyone. Too bad we can only swing one Austin trip a year. The tradition started when the kids were still in high school, and has now morphed into an 11-person extravaganza. Actually, it is very easy to find houses for a group our size, because Austin is bachelorette party capital of America!
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  • Last Day in Austin

    8 aprile 2023, Stati Uniti ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Since today was our last day in Austin, we got up early and by 10:30 we were at the LBJ library. If you are not familiar with the challenges of getting 6 children between the ages of 8 months and 11 years out the door, that will not sound like an early day, but I assure you, it is. My contributions were minimal and trivial - holding a baby for a few minutes, filling a water bottle, etc. Joe and I had been to some of the LBJ sites out of town, but we always love going to this presidential museum/library. It is chock full of information, recorded phone conversations, film clips, memorabilia, etc. I listened to LBJ speaking with MLK a few months after JFK’s assassination. The Civil Rights folks were very suspicious of LBJ, since his first years of voting in Congress had been squarely on the segregationist side, but he proved his mettle by getting a lot of monumental legislation passed. The kids liked seeing the model White House Oval Office and all except the 4 yo and baby were totally engaged by the movie describing his life. The older ones enjoyed scrutinizing LBJ’s school report cards, too. LBJ would not be a very popular person in today’s Texas, but I believe that history will recognize him as one of our great presidents. Never thought I would say that! And maybe I’m under the influence of the loving spin on his life that you get here at the library. Flawed and inconsistent like all of us, but oh so much more than the Viet Nam war.

    After the library, we took our obligatory trip to the turtle pond on the University of Texas campus, and from there back to the rental for lunch. We then split up, and my group went up to Mt. Bonnell for great views of Lake Austin and then over to Zilker Park. Too cold for a swim, but we had to go back to the playground.

    Dinner at Salt Lick, a BBQ ranch about a half hour out of town, is another one of our sacred traditions. If you are not a meat eater you would not be too happy, but their cole slaw and potato salad are both top notch.

    It would be so great if we all lived closer together, but these reunion trips are very special!
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  • Second Rainy Day

    7 aprile 2023, Stati Uniti ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Not exactly what we had in mind, but they need the rain so badly it is hard to even complain a little bit. We spent a big chunk of the day in the Texas History Museum, which focuses on Texas before statehood. Reading the information panels, it seemed like France, Britain and Spain were the puppet masters dictating everything from afar.

    For me the highlight of the museum was the hulk of the 17th century La Belle, a sunken ship that had been the last remaining ship of a French expedition, which had been sent to find the Mississippi River in the gulf. It overshot its mark, the captain was killed, and La Belle sank off the coast of what is now Texas. The ship was found and brought up in the 90s and it is a really fascinating exhibit. Lots and lots of artifacts, and the hull itself sits in the main hall.

    The kids were entertained for a few hours, enjoying the replica of the Alamo and a lot of gunslinging displays. It was still raining as we left, so we had to find a food truck court with covered seating. Food trucks are absolutely the best way to get good food in Austin when you’ve got a bunch of kids and don’t want to wait for hours for seating or make reservations weeks in advance. For lunch, we went to Briscuits, whose specialty is unsurprisingly, brisket on bisquits. Lots of non-brisket options too, and I can attest to their yumminess.

    After lunch, the annual trip to the great-grandparents’ grave, a visit to Joe’s childhood neighborhood, and then a quick stop at a used book store, where all the kids could choose two books each. We had a few hours of chilling back at the rental, which gave us all the energy to head for excellent pizza at Pinthouse Pizza. The more hardy in the group went on to Churro Co., but I took the easy out and headed back to the house with the excuse that baby Tommy needed to get to bed.
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  • Rainy day in Austin

    6 aprile 2023, Stati Uniti ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    With 6 kids and 6 adults, even breakfast is a major operation. Hats off to JJ (age 8) and her dad (our resident chef) for a very nice one. Two of the kids had to work remotely, so the remaining 10 loaded up into two cars and headed for the Capitol. We got to see both the House and Senate in action. The House was getting ready for a marathon session to vote on some health care law with 400 amendments, each of which has to be voted on separately. The Senate was debating something that had to do with charter schools and public funding. Not a lot of inspiring rhetorical flourishes. But it was interesting. And the building itself is gorgeous.

    Next stop was to show the library to the cousins who hadn’t seen it. We had brought our lunch and ate it in the lobby. And then the kids all got to play on computers and read graphic novels.

    Last stop of the day was the Blanton Art Museum. It’s a beautiful building and I especially enjoyed the Latino rooms.

    I’ve probably said this already, but it’s so fun to see the grandkids playing together. They are really having a great time. And we’re all learning how to play the very complicated Forbidden Desert.

    Dinner soon at Easy Tiger.
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  • Travel woes with a happy ending.

    5 aprile 2023, Stati Uniti ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It seemed too good to be true, and then at nine this morning, we learned that son and family were .delayed for at least three hours. Three hours later, their flight was canceled. Nothing to do but keep our fingers crossed.

    For our morning fun, we walked to a great park about five blocks from our house. Then across the river to the amazing Austin Public library. Ben and I wondered if red cities go as all out with their libraries as blue cities.

    We had lunch at La Santa Barbacha food truck. Some of the most delicious Mexican food I’ve ever had. Topped off with a few games of corn hole.

    Then we got the good news that the whole crew of 6 was en route to Austin. By 5:30 we were all at the park and the cousins were running and jumping nonstop. It’s so great to have us all together. Lots of half finished conversations and interruptions, we got to Lucy’s Fried Chicken just in time to get in our order before the kitchen closed and ended the night with frozen bananas at Banarchy.
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  • Daughter and family arrive!

    4 aprile 2023, Stati Uniti ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We left Georgetown and headed into our Austin rental. About 40 minutes later , the first family (daughter) arrived and we met at Elizabeth’s (a Vietnamese restaurant).

    Since today was forecast to be the only hot day this week, we headed to Barton Springs, a public pool in a natural spring.

    Then eating time again, after an hour spent trying to learn the very complicated rules of Forbidden Desert, a collaborative strategy game. Pizza at Buffalina and doughnuts for dessert at Gordoughs. This is our normal Austin routine. Since we’ve been coming so many years, everyone has a handful of must-go to places.

    Family number two (son) arrives tomorrow. So glad-happy to be with the kids snd grandkids..
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  • Trip to the LBJ sites

    3 aprile 2023, Stati Uniti ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Yesterday, we were with Joe’s friend Ben and his family, went to brunch, enjoyed the town square (which still has a monument to Confederate soldiers), out to the dam and its resulting lake, all without my phone, so no pictures.

    Today we took a road trip, Ben, Joe, and I. It was just great. We left around 9 and headed towards Fredericksburg, which has beoome a tourist destination for its wineries and cutesy main street with lots of Wild West building facades. On the way we took the Willow City Loop, which goes through ranch country with amazing wildflower displays — blue bonnets, Indian Paintbrush, and some white flower we couldn’t identify.

    Lunch in Fredericksburg, and a stroll up and down its main street. Since no one in our group is a shopper, we didn’t last long there. From there we headed to LBJ Country. Our first stop was the Texas White House, with stops nearby at the LBJ birthplace, the one-room school where LBJ started school (and where he came back as president to sign the Elementary and Secondary Education Act, with his teacher from those days at his side), the family cemetery where he and Lady Bird are buried, and a drive all around the huge ranch. The Texas White House is closed because of serious structural issues caused when the family added bathrooms and cut down load-bearing walls with abandon, but we could see it from the outside in its lovely location on the banks of the Pernales River. The plane used by LBJ to fly from Washington to his ranch is still there, with the story being that although this plane was an Air Force One, LBJ nick-named it Air Force Half-One because it was so small (seating for 8 or 9).

    Here I will add the aside that as someone who came of age in the 60s, LBJ was always associated with Viet Nam in my mind. Hey, hey LBJ, how many kids did you kill today? was a familiar refrain. That image has changed over the years, with many trips to Texas, as I have been reminded of the incredible number of landmark laws that were passed during his presidency, frequently due to nothing other than LBJ’s own sheer force as a politician. The Voting Rights Act, the Environmental Protection Act, Medicare, the Clean Water Act, the list goes on and on.

    Our last stop was at another LBJ National Park site in Johnson City (named for a nephew of LBJ’s grandfather, so the Johnson family was clearly a fixture in this part of Texas). There we saw his boyhood home (complete with outhouse!) and a few longhorn cattle there to delight the visitors, like me, who had never seen one. It is probably a trite observation, but to see that a US president began life in a three room house does make an impact.

    A great day with a ride home through hill country, blue bonnets everywhere. Too tired to go out for dinner, we will just munch on snacks and head off to slumberland.
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  • Champaign to Austin

    3 aprile 2023, Stati Uniti ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Travel day is never a lot of fun, but this was the first trip in a while without travel delays, unscheduled stops in strange airports, or some other travel screw-up. Champaign to Chicago to Austin. We are here for our annual trip to Joe’s hometown, and will spend our first few days in Georgetown, Tx, where a good high school friend of Joe’s now lives. Than on Tuesday we head into our AirBnb in central Austin and get excited as both kids and their families come in from San Francisco and Chicago. Can’t wait!Leggi altro

  • Travel day —make that DAYS

    15 marzo 2023, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Thursday night before heading to our wonderful meal in Quince Letras, I got a travel alert from American. Bad weather tomorrow in Dallas and did I want to change my flight . My few attempts to contact AA we’re unsuccessful, so I just left everything as it was.

    I thought things were looking up when we boarded our flight in Oaxaca, headed to Dallas, just a few minutes late. I was wrong.

    Storms in Dallas meant we had to divert to Houston to get more fuel. After about 90 minutes on the runway, they cancelled the rest of the flight. The plan was to get to Dallas in the morning.

    They told me the only way to get home before Tuesday was to fly into Bloomington from Dallas. But then while I was waiting for the hotel voucher, two seats on the Dallas flight to Champaign for today magically, opened up.

    We had a night in an airport hotel, and got on the 630 shuttle to get back to the airport for our 9 AM flight. Halfway to the airport I realized Joe did not have his backpack. I called the hotel, and they were very unhelpful. Since the pack contained our very expensive alebrije, and since the very nice driver assured us he would get us back right away, we took the chance . And here we are in Houston airport once again.

    So here we go, starting Day #2 of travel. Hoping it is uneventful.

    Edited to add that we made it to Dallas, and our flight to Champaign leaves in about 90 minutes. To top it all off, it is SUNNY! We are the beneficiaries of someone else’s travel woes, because the flights to Champaign are all full for days.

    Just so I won’t lose track of the names of the restaurants we enjoyed, here they are:

    I’d recommend them all. La Catedral (in the patio), Casa Oaxaca, Maguey y Maíz, Asador Vasco (good fish), Danzantes, Origen, La Pitiona, Tierra del Sol (the only one that wouldn’t get a strong thumbs up from me). And our last night in 15 Letras was fabulous, on the roof terrace.

    Coffee and breakfasts. Boulenc, Filemón, and Jazz.
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  • Last day in Oaxaca

    15 marzo 2023, Messico ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We had saved the visit to the Archaeological Museum till our last day, so my heart sank as I saw rows of police barricades all around the square. The TV crews were there to film an episode of Top Chef, and the contestants were lining up to start racing around their portable kitchens set up outside in the sun.

    Luckily there was a narrow passageway open to let museum-goers around the square. It’s a real treasure trove of all sorts of artifacts— jewels, household goods, religious statuary, and burial urns and masks. Most were found at Monte Alban and are very nicely displayed. The most spectacular room houses the find in Tomb7 from the 1400s, after the Miztecas took Monte Alban from the Zapotecas. Most of the other rooms house much earlier stuff, from several centuries BC till the decline of the city around 800 AD. Lots of wows.

    I had never taken a city bus tour but as we left the museum one was filling up, so we got on. An hour around the city, seen from the top of a double decker. I don’t imagine there are too many cities where the drivers of these buses have to warn riders to duck to avoid either branches or (more ominously) electrical wires. It was a fun way to wrap up the touring and luckily no one was decapitated.

    One more nap for Joe, one more neighborhood stroll for me, and one more dinner. The author of the Moonstruck guide reports that after eating dinner at the restaurant we’re going to (15 Letras), he had tears of joy because it was so good. That strikes me as a bit hyperbolic but it should be good!

    P.S. I just got a travel alert from American, advising me of thunderstorms in Dallas tomorrow. So who knows where we will sleep tomorrow night!
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  • Restaurants and cafes.

    14 marzo 2023, Messico ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I want to keep a list of good restaurants we’ve enjoyed so I won’t forget. In no particular order I’d recommend them all. La Catedral, Casa Oaxaca, Maguey y Maíz, Asador Vasco (good fish), Danzantes, Origen, La Pitiona, Tierra del Sol (the only one that wouldn’t get a strong thumbs up from me). And our last night in 15 Letras.

    Coffee and breakfasts. Boulenc, Filemón, and Jazz.
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  • Wandering

    14 marzo 2023, Messico ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    I had heard about two different barrios with lots of houses with murals on the wall. Xochimilco and Jalatluda. Joe was in slow mode today, so this was a good way to spend our time. I was able to plan a walking route that included churches and parks (pews and benches are always appreciated) as we went through the barrios. The murals are fantastic —some whimsical, some political, some just weird.

    Dance classes in the park, school bands practicing, speeches of some political stripe. There’s always something to watch. Especially since we had no real agenda or itinerary. We were going to go to the Archaeological Museum today, but decided to spend today outside to enjoy a break in the high temps we’ve been having. If I were a shopper I’d be in heaven because it seems to be the main thing people do when they walk around the city.

    We did pop into a few churches and as always found only a handful of women (usually but not always old like me). We spent some time in a convent turned research library. Very interesting presentations on the excavations nearby and the evidence that Zapotecas were here in force when the Spaniards came calling.

    We have eaten a cautious amount of street food, but typically play it safe. It’s almost as much fun to watch the preparations and the people.

    I’ve met four women in our hotel, two of whom have walked the camino. They seem to be sitting outside in the patio while Joe is napping, so it’s been fun to talk about my favorite activity with them.
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  • Artesanato Day

    13 marzo 2023, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I am not a good shopper but I do love seeing the real artisans using traditional methods of craftsmanship. They are fighting the wave of cheap imported copies, and may ultimately lose the battle. But going out to the pueblos and watching them at work was very interesting and gave hope that the traditional methods will survive.

    We went to four different pueblos, one was dedicated to red clay, one to weaving, one to black clay, and one to making those fantastic painted alebrijes. Each town had its own artisans, all working by hand to produce high quality products.

    But aahhh the alebrijes. They are creatures made by combining several real animals into one, and the result is something half-real, half-fantasy. All based in Zapoteca tradition. The process is incredibly labor intensive. From carving the copal wood and then drying it and treating it before painting. One guy in the taller does nothing other than prepare the carved wood for painting. This involves filling the cracks that have emerged spontaneously as the wood dries. And then sanding. All by hand. Then comes the painting, omg the painting.. The paints are plant based and then mixed with either honey or mezcal to change the shade or the brilliance. Each little pot of paint made by hand and mixed with love. And each tiny row of minuscule geometric design on the figures reproduces some Zapoteca symbol—for love, sorrow, fidelity, honor, etc. It takes weeks to paint one of these figurines.

    Ok I confess I bought one. It was what Joe would call an impulse purchase but it’s beautiful and fantastical. And it felt good to support the preservation of these traditions in some small way.

    We’re now sitting on a terrace in a restaurant overlooking the Zocalo, with music playing a marimba and spontaneous dancing by anyone so inclined. Sone seem professional, most just there for fun. Our waiter tells us this happens every night.

    Lots of traditions seem to be surviving!
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  • Travel by TAXI!

    12 marzo 2023, Messico ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    I am so glad I gave up on the idea of renting a car. A little more luxurious than our normal way to travel, but Omar, our taxista from yesterday, said he would be glad to drive us around. We felt so pampered — left off right at the entrance, picked up whenever we appeared, it was great! We liked it so much, we are going to do it again tomorrow, I’m embarrassed to say. He came up with a great itinerary today and promises more of the same tomorrow.

    The highlight of the day was our first stop, Mitla, another Zapoteca city, which was the religious capital of the Zapotecas after Monte Albán started its decline. It survived until the Spanish conquest, and as frequently happened, much of the site was destroyed and repurposed to build the church. Luckily, the Spaniards must not have wanted geometric designs in their churches, because there are many untouched friezes of unique geometric mosaics, rows and rows ringing the tops of the now roof-less buildings.

    The rest of the day was a bit of this and a bit of that — we went to Hierve el Agua, beautiful mineral springs where the water bubbles up from underground and its minerals are deposited as the water flows down the cliffs to the pools, making stalagtites (though they call them “petrified waterfalls” here). Spectacular setting overlooking a valley and a ring of mountains, and the water is bright blue-green. We didn’t have our suits, but got our legs wet.

    Then to a family mezcal-making place, using donkeys, old barrels, lots of manual labor. The young father leaves his 15 year old in charge of the production, while he spends his time caring for the plants. He talked almost lovingly about the different kinds of agave and how he brings them to maturity. But what a life — very little production must translate into very little income.

    We spent some time in one of those chokingly crowded Sunday markets, in Tlacolula. I love walking through and gawking, but the thought of actually buying something there is of absolutely no interest. I am just a bad shopper. At Omar´s suggestion, we had some plates of roasted goat and lamb, slow-cooked by the vendors and served with, of course, homemade tortillas. Then another Zapoteca site, Yagul, with its perfectly untouched ball court.

    We ended the day with a trip to a friend of Omar’s whose family makes weavings with organic dyes and hand looms. The whole town, whose name I can’t remember, seems to be a textile/rug mecca. Oh yes, one last stop at the Tule tree, a Montezuma cypress (whatever that is) reported to have the largest tree trunk in Latin America. I am glad that Joe resisted the urge to challenge Omar when he made the claim, but he couldn’t avoid an eye roll. One really interesting tidbit, at least for those who love local government like I do, was the fact that this town is one of “usos y costumbres.” No political parties, ruling by consensus and unwritten norms, sort of sounds like a New England Town Hall. I would love to know more.

    We have had a sensory overload of the best type and will settle for sandwiches from the very excellent bakery down the street, Boulenc. The lines start at 8:15 in the morning and seem to be a permanent feature. Getting takeout requires less of a wait.
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  • Weddings

    11 marzo 2023, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We had a few hours to walk around before dinner, so what better thing to do than head towards Plaza Santo Domingo , where something always seems to be happening. And oh yes, today is wedding day. Very festive processions, with the wedding party, bands, big balloons, and a variety of people in all sorts of traditional garb. I saw the people sitting next to me on the plane, dancing their way down the street in one of the wedding parties!

    We saw at least five over the course of an hour. Oaxaca must be a destination wedding hotspot because most of the balloons announced couples who were not likely local. “Casey y Summer,” “Chris y Ellen.” But no matter where they were from, they all seem to be having a grand time.

    We then made it down to our restaurant called La Catedral, for a really good meal. We are eating well and enjoying those meals in beautiful patios and terraces.
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  • To Monte Alban

    11 marzo 2023, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    This morning we took a cab to the Monte Alban archaeological site. There are about 20 buildings pyramids,, a beautiful ball court and an observatory. We did not have a guide because we needed to do this at our own rhythm.
    I bought a little book in the bookstore, so we had plenty of information. Although there were a few flights of steps that were fairly hairy, Joe managed to navigate them all without mishap. He used the hiking poles and they worked well on the uneven terrain. I think he did very well and enjoyed the visit, even though he did spend some time sitting in the shade while I climbed up and down.

    In spite of all the archaeological studies, there’s still so much mystery surrounding these places. Carvings that were once thought to be dancers, are now considered to be dead castrated prisoners. And apparently no one has ever figured out what the rules of the ball game were. According to what I have read, injury, and death were probably a part of the playbook. And all those standing stones or special obelisks with unknown astrological purpose. So much we don’t know about the past!

    There was a huge poster, put together by the technical and professional staff of the national Institute of archaeology and history (INAH), complaining that the organization has received no budget for the last couple of years. Ringing the warning, bell and hoping for some action.

    I had considered renting a car and taking a few day trips, but that is definitely off the table now that we’ve been in the midst Oaxaca traffic. Omar, the taxista who took us today, is going to pick us up tomorrow and take us out for another half day trip. He described a lot of options so I’m sure we’ll be in good hands. We make a habit of this since we still have four days here!

    Nap time is over. Heading for a stroll and dinner at another highly recommended restaurant. The life of Riley.
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  • First day, the sights of Oaxaca

    10 marzo 2023, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This was a day with a ton of little snippets and no through line, if that makes sense. Parks, markets, street musicians, the Stamp museum with its VW covered in stamps and a treasure trove of Frida Kahlo letters, a few markets, more parks, lots of street vendors. You can’t go for more than a block without running into something that makes clear I’m far from Illinois.

    Mostly joyful with a few sad parts thrown in. A woman in tears because she had been robbed, and a wooden wall with many posters snd graphics protesting the disappearance of loved ones. Two men going at it in a square. My phone tells me I’ve walked 17 miles and Joe’s 10., so there were a lot of steps from one street scene to the next. I loved it.

    Oaxaca is bursting with tourists, lots of cheap trinkets and guys hawking tours or mezcal tastings. I can’t compare it to how things were before the invasion. But I’m loving it just how it is!
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  • Arrived!

    9 marzo 2023, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Based on daughter’s rave reviews, I decided we’d go to Oaxaca for spring break. With her and ML’s recommendations, we can spend most of the time eating.

    It was a very easy trip from Champaign to Dallas to Oaxaca. Much easier than going through Mexico City, I’m sure. The only downside was a very early flight. But here we are in our hotel, and I’ve done a brief reconnaissance walk while Joe naps. Since we got up at four, I think it’ll be an early night for me. I think the three adjectives I would use are sunny, chaotic, and vibrant.

    I had forgotten to let the bank know we were going, so my first four tries at getting money were failures. Thanks to my two guardian angels back in Champaign, though, it was just a matter of minutes till it was all fixed. Niralee and Abbie, you are the best!
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