• Restaurants and cafes.

    14 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I want to keep a list of good restaurants we’ve enjoyed so I won’t forget. In no particular order I’d recommend them all. La Catedral, Casa Oaxaca, Maguey y Maíz, Asador Vasco (good fish), Danzantes, Origen, La Pitiona, Tierra del Sol (the only one that wouldn’t get a strong thumbs up from me). And our last night in 15 Letras.

    Coffee and breakfasts. Boulenc, Filemón, and Jazz.
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  • Wandering

    14 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    I had heard about two different barrios with lots of houses with murals on the wall. Xochimilco and Jalatluda. Joe was in slow mode today, so this was a good way to spend our time. I was able to plan a walking route that included churches and parks (pews and benches are always appreciated) as we went through the barrios. The murals are fantastic —some whimsical, some political, some just weird.

    Dance classes in the park, school bands practicing, speeches of some political stripe. There’s always something to watch. Especially since we had no real agenda or itinerary. We were going to go to the Archaeological Museum today, but decided to spend today outside to enjoy a break in the high temps we’ve been having. If I were a shopper I’d be in heaven because it seems to be the main thing people do when they walk around the city.

    We did pop into a few churches and as always found only a handful of women (usually but not always old like me). We spent some time in a convent turned research library. Very interesting presentations on the excavations nearby and the evidence that Zapotecas were here in force when the Spaniards came calling.

    We have eaten a cautious amount of street food, but typically play it safe. It’s almost as much fun to watch the preparations and the people.

    I’ve met four women in our hotel, two of whom have walked the camino. They seem to be sitting outside in the patio while Joe is napping, so it’s been fun to talk about my favorite activity with them.
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  • Artesanato Day

    13 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I am not a good shopper but I do love seeing the real artisans using traditional methods of craftsmanship. They are fighting the wave of cheap imported copies, and may ultimately lose the battle. But going out to the pueblos and watching them at work was very interesting and gave hope that the traditional methods will survive.

    We went to four different pueblos, one was dedicated to red clay, one to weaving, one to black clay, and one to making those fantastic painted alebrijes. Each town had its own artisans, all working by hand to produce high quality products.

    But aahhh the alebrijes. They are creatures made by combining several real animals into one, and the result is something half-real, half-fantasy. All based in Zapoteca tradition. The process is incredibly labor intensive. From carving the copal wood and then drying it and treating it before painting. One guy in the taller does nothing other than prepare the carved wood for painting. This involves filling the cracks that have emerged spontaneously as the wood dries. And then sanding. All by hand. Then comes the painting, omg the painting.. The paints are plant based and then mixed with either honey or mezcal to change the shade or the brilliance. Each little pot of paint made by hand and mixed with love. And each tiny row of minuscule geometric design on the figures reproduces some Zapoteca symbol—for love, sorrow, fidelity, honor, etc. It takes weeks to paint one of these figurines.

    Ok I confess I bought one. It was what Joe would call an impulse purchase but it’s beautiful and fantastical. And it felt good to support the preservation of these traditions in some small way.

    We’re now sitting on a terrace in a restaurant overlooking the Zocalo, with music playing a marimba and spontaneous dancing by anyone so inclined. Sone seem professional, most just there for fun. Our waiter tells us this happens every night.

    Lots of traditions seem to be surviving!
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  • Travel by TAXI!

    12 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    I am so glad I gave up on the idea of renting a car. A little more luxurious than our normal way to travel, but Omar, our taxista from yesterday, said he would be glad to drive us around. We felt so pampered — left off right at the entrance, picked up whenever we appeared, it was great! We liked it so much, we are going to do it again tomorrow, I’m embarrassed to say. He came up with a great itinerary today and promises more of the same tomorrow.

    The highlight of the day was our first stop, Mitla, another Zapoteca city, which was the religious capital of the Zapotecas after Monte Albán started its decline. It survived until the Spanish conquest, and as frequently happened, much of the site was destroyed and repurposed to build the church. Luckily, the Spaniards must not have wanted geometric designs in their churches, because there are many untouched friezes of unique geometric mosaics, rows and rows ringing the tops of the now roof-less buildings.

    The rest of the day was a bit of this and a bit of that — we went to Hierve el Agua, beautiful mineral springs where the water bubbles up from underground and its minerals are deposited as the water flows down the cliffs to the pools, making stalagtites (though they call them “petrified waterfalls” here). Spectacular setting overlooking a valley and a ring of mountains, and the water is bright blue-green. We didn’t have our suits, but got our legs wet.

    Then to a family mezcal-making place, using donkeys, old barrels, lots of manual labor. The young father leaves his 15 year old in charge of the production, while he spends his time caring for the plants. He talked almost lovingly about the different kinds of agave and how he brings them to maturity. But what a life — very little production must translate into very little income.

    We spent some time in one of those chokingly crowded Sunday markets, in Tlacolula. I love walking through and gawking, but the thought of actually buying something there is of absolutely no interest. I am just a bad shopper. At Omar´s suggestion, we had some plates of roasted goat and lamb, slow-cooked by the vendors and served with, of course, homemade tortillas. Then another Zapoteca site, Yagul, with its perfectly untouched ball court.

    We ended the day with a trip to a friend of Omar’s whose family makes weavings with organic dyes and hand looms. The whole town, whose name I can’t remember, seems to be a textile/rug mecca. Oh yes, one last stop at the Tule tree, a Montezuma cypress (whatever that is) reported to have the largest tree trunk in Latin America. I am glad that Joe resisted the urge to challenge Omar when he made the claim, but he couldn’t avoid an eye roll. One really interesting tidbit, at least for those who love local government like I do, was the fact that this town is one of “usos y costumbres.” No political parties, ruling by consensus and unwritten norms, sort of sounds like a New England Town Hall. I would love to know more.

    We have had a sensory overload of the best type and will settle for sandwiches from the very excellent bakery down the street, Boulenc. The lines start at 8:15 in the morning and seem to be a permanent feature. Getting takeout requires less of a wait.
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  • Weddings

    11 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We had a few hours to walk around before dinner, so what better thing to do than head towards Plaza Santo Domingo , where something always seems to be happening. And oh yes, today is wedding day. Very festive processions, with the wedding party, bands, big balloons, and a variety of people in all sorts of traditional garb. I saw the people sitting next to me on the plane, dancing their way down the street in one of the wedding parties!

    We saw at least five over the course of an hour. Oaxaca must be a destination wedding hotspot because most of the balloons announced couples who were not likely local. “Casey y Summer,” “Chris y Ellen.” But no matter where they were from, they all seem to be having a grand time.

    We then made it down to our restaurant called La Catedral, for a really good meal. We are eating well and enjoying those meals in beautiful patios and terraces.
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  • To Monte Alban

    11 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    This morning we took a cab to the Monte Alban archaeological site. There are about 20 buildings pyramids,, a beautiful ball court and an observatory. We did not have a guide because we needed to do this at our own rhythm.
    I bought a little book in the bookstore, so we had plenty of information. Although there were a few flights of steps that were fairly hairy, Joe managed to navigate them all without mishap. He used the hiking poles and they worked well on the uneven terrain. I think he did very well and enjoyed the visit, even though he did spend some time sitting in the shade while I climbed up and down.

    In spite of all the archaeological studies, there’s still so much mystery surrounding these places. Carvings that were once thought to be dancers, are now considered to be dead castrated prisoners. And apparently no one has ever figured out what the rules of the ball game were. According to what I have read, injury, and death were probably a part of the playbook. And all those standing stones or special obelisks with unknown astrological purpose. So much we don’t know about the past!

    There was a huge poster, put together by the technical and professional staff of the national Institute of archaeology and history (INAH), complaining that the organization has received no budget for the last couple of years. Ringing the warning, bell and hoping for some action.

    I had considered renting a car and taking a few day trips, but that is definitely off the table now that we’ve been in the midst Oaxaca traffic. Omar, the taxista who took us today, is going to pick us up tomorrow and take us out for another half day trip. He described a lot of options so I’m sure we’ll be in good hands. We make a habit of this since we still have four days here!

    Nap time is over. Heading for a stroll and dinner at another highly recommended restaurant. The life of Riley.
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  • First day, the sights of Oaxaca

    10 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This was a day with a ton of little snippets and no through line, if that makes sense. Parks, markets, street musicians, the Stamp museum with its VW covered in stamps and a treasure trove of Frida Kahlo letters, a few markets, more parks, lots of street vendors. You can’t go for more than a block without running into something that makes clear I’m far from Illinois.

    Mostly joyful with a few sad parts thrown in. A woman in tears because she had been robbed, and a wooden wall with many posters snd graphics protesting the disappearance of loved ones. Two men going at it in a square. My phone tells me I’ve walked 17 miles and Joe’s 10., so there were a lot of steps from one street scene to the next. I loved it.

    Oaxaca is bursting with tourists, lots of cheap trinkets and guys hawking tours or mezcal tastings. I can’t compare it to how things were before the invasion. But I’m loving it just how it is!
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  • Arrived!

    9 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Based on daughter’s rave reviews, I decided we’d go to Oaxaca for spring break. With her and ML’s recommendations, we can spend most of the time eating.

    It was a very easy trip from Champaign to Dallas to Oaxaca. Much easier than going through Mexico City, I’m sure. The only downside was a very early flight. But here we are in our hotel, and I’ve done a brief reconnaissance walk while Joe naps. Since we got up at four, I think it’ll be an early night for me. I think the three adjectives I would use are sunny, chaotic, and vibrant.

    I had forgotten to let the bank know we were going, so my first four tries at getting money were failures. Thanks to my two guardian angels back in Champaign, though, it was just a matter of minutes till it was all fixed. Niralee and Abbie, you are the best!
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  • Home again

    19 november 2022, Verenigde Staten ⋅ 🌙 -7 °C

    Yesterday was travel day from hell, but we are home!

    First, the fire alarm in the Marriott started going off at 2:30 in the morning and it kept on going off and on intermittently till our 4 am wake up call. By 4:30 we were out of the hotel and on the way to the airport, so I don’t know how long it kept on beeping.

    The one real high point of the day was that I ran into an old UI student of mine (graduation class 2009), who has moved to Lisbon with her husband and settled there permanently. She practices law remotely with a Texas firm, and her husband does something tech related. We had a great catch-up and promised that if I make it back next year, we will get together.

    That was the end of the fun. The flight from Lisbon to London was late, reducing our transfer time to 1 hour and 10 minutes. The very helpful BA flight attendant insisted Joe needed assistance, though I knew he was quite capable of walking it and am not sure why I went along with this. But it meant we had to wait till the plane emptied to deplane, only to find that the “buggy” he had ordered was not there. It arrived a few minutes later, and the driver then told us that the buggy could only take us to the spot where we had to go upstairs to go through security again. So we in essence waited 20 minutes for a 3 minute buggy ride, which would have taken Joe no more than 10, in my estimation. The line was snaking at security, but we jumped to the front. Joe and I go through different lines and for some reason his shoes had to come off while mine didn’t. And then he couldn’t find where his shoes had gone! Then rush down two levels, which are not connected by the same elevator, to get to the level for the shuttle which would take us close to our gate. As we were waiting for the shuttle, I saw that our flight was flashing “final boarding,” which made my heart sink. But I am glad we didn’t just call it quits. At that point, the shuttle arrived and emptied out, but they had to do the “security check”, a manual inspection of all five cars, which took another several minutes. We got to the gate as the agent was actually closing the first boarding door. BUT… the very nice woman called the people at the second door (a floor down from the main entrance) and told them to hold it for a few minutes. As we showed our boarding passes, mine triggered a random extra security search. But since they assured me that we were through and would make the flight, those few extra minutes just gave us time to catch our breath and look less frazzled when we actually boarded. We had not done a Heathrow transfer in many years, and you can be sure I will now avoid it at all costs.

    Once we sat down, and the doors closed, nothing happened. About 15 minutes later, a very apologetic and polite British voice told us that the refrigeration system for the food wasn’t working, and they had to order some dry ice as a substitute. And then of course the mechanics had to fill out several maintenance forms, etc etc. So as a result, our flight was more than an hour late. I will say though, that the food we got was several orders of magnitude more edible than what we have had recently on American or Iberia. We even had an “afternoon tea” before touchdown, clotted cream included.

    Note to self: Do not arrive in Chicago’s international arrivals on the weekend before Thanksgiving. The lines were horrendous, the luggage pick-up and drop-off area just chaotic, and the train back to the main terminal crushed worse than the sardines I brought back from Lisbon. Getting through security was another ordeal, slower than molasses, but finally we got through, only to learn that our Champaign flight would be delayed by about an hour. At that point, we just shrugged and figured the worse was over. And we are now home!
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  • Persistence and Resistance

    13 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    First, the persistence. Joe kept insisting he was sure where he left his glasses, so I decided the best option was to go take a look. It would have been a great story! No luck, though the woman in the park’s café told me she had a huge ring of keys, including two car keys, that someone lost yesterday. So I think we got off lucky, just losing glasses.

    From there we decided to go to the Aljube, a former political prison during the Salazar dictatorship. It has been turned into the Museum of the Resistance. We had been there ten years ago when it first opened, and it was just as chilling as before. So many displays of inhumanity. The last rooms of the permanent exhibition end with an upbeat recounting of the Carnation Revolution — deposing a dictatorship without firing a shot. I thought the museum struck the right tone — not too pollyanish but clear in its message that there was a good side and a bad side.

    I found a public elevator I had never seen before — takes you straight down into the middle of the Alfama, the old moorish neighborhood below the castle walls. We hadn’t been down there because there are just too many uneven surfaces, ups and downs, nooks and crannies. But Joe was game, so dowon we went. We did wind up doing a fair amount of up and down through tiny narrow passageways. It is becoming quite the trendy area — lots of Air BnBs, restaurants, souvenir shops, etc, but there are still real people living there, all of whom seem to do their wash on Sunday and hang it outside.

    Our plan was to walk down to the center and catch a cab back to the hotel. But there was no traffic going through the streets. I thought surely there must be some huge political demonstration going on, but after walking a mile or so up from the center towards our hotel, we saw that it was an Antique Car Association gathering that had blocked off the main drag in town and essentially stopped traffic going into the historic core. The cops we asked about it were not big fans, but some of these cars were real gems.

    Finally, about two hours later and three more miles walked than hoped for, we found a cab and made it back to the hotel. Teaching starts up tomorrow bright and early.
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  • Tram museum and some wandering

    12 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    The Tram museum is not a 5* attraction but it’s really interesting. It’s housed in the actual huge Carris maintenance and garage facility. You can see some of the original cars (and actually get a ride on one of the very first electric trams from the early 1900s), but it also gives a very good history of the transformation of the company. From a few horse drawn wagon type trams (called “americanos,” perhaps because one of the two owners was from Brazil), and then the laying of rails throughout the city, lots of fascinating pictures. It was also really interesting to see how different the ethos of the company was back then. There was a barbershop on the premises and all employees were required to be well shaved and coiffed. All men in dress shirt and ties.

    Our plan was to visit the Arte Antica museum next, but when we got there they told us that the Hieronymus Bosch painting (which is really the stand out of the European collection) was on loan, and that the entire floor of Portuguese painting (which has some medieval work that I like) was about to close for a two hours lunch break. So we went to Plan B, which involved walking around through the fancy embassy neighborhood and then having lunch in our favorite Lisbon park, Estrela. We were then able to get on the tram 28 for a ride across town to some of the great Miradouros over the Alfama and the Tagus river.

    Joe lost his glasses, which is quite the bummer. But he is having some laser glaucoma treatment when we get home so he may need new glasses anyway. Nothing to be done about it for the time being.

    Still waiting for some election results!
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  • Caminho friends and more tiles

    11 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    My teaching week ended yesterday. In the past, we have always rented a car and headed out of town for three days. This year we decided to stay and enjoy the weekend in Lisboa.

    Last night we met up with five Caminho friends. I go way back with Jose Luiz and Natercia, who are the founders and still the prime movers of the Via Lusitana, the Portuguese friends of the caminho association. The rest of us were just plain old Caminho addicts, except for Joe, who went along for the fun of it. A good time was had by all, and we were all given a pretty Portuguese credential as well as a nice Via Lusitana pin. It will go on my camino hat next to my little arrow pin.

    Today we decided to revisit the Palace of the Marques da Fronteira, which is a bit off the beaten path. It’s a 17th century palace, founded by the first Marques, who got his title for his role in the war for independence from Spain. It is still inhabited by the noble family. It has amazing tiles, most made in Portugal but some from outside. Interesting tidbit—I learned why the grotto walls are covered with broken pieces of china. It turns out that King Pedro II attended the celebratory dinner when the palace was completed. According to tradition, any plates used by the king or used to serve the king could never be reused. So they were smashed and became part of the decor.

    A long walk brought us within striking distance of our hotel, and we hopped on a bus for the last km or two.
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  • Tile Museum

    9 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Since I’m teaching from 10-1, mornings are out. But I try to get us out and about in the afternoons.

    Today we went to the Tile Museum, where we hadn’t been for 15 years. It’s in a 17th C convent with an over the top baroque church (is that redundant?).

    We enjoyed it very much, especially the 18th century tiles depicting Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake. And there are lots of beautiful tiles from the 14C forward.

    We had taken an Uber to get to the museum. But getting back to the hotel was a challenge, because the museum had no wifi, and I have no telephone service. And it is in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, I had Peggy and Mike’s unused transit cards, so we hopped on a bus to the center. After walking for a few kms, we picked up a cab and got back to the hotel.

    Tonight we went to one of our two favorite hole-in-the-wall places. Freshly caught fish, garlicky green beans, and for the sweets-lover, a leite creme.
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  • Our favorite pizzeria

    8 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Two days of teaching, which I am enjoying immensely, and a lot of rain. Today at about 3 pm, the skies cleared, and we hopped in an Uber (there were no cabs outside the hotel, so we had no choice) and headed for the historic center. We walked and walked, feeling quite at home and happy to be here. Down Avenida da Liberdade, through Rossio, down to the river, and over to Casanova, our favorite pizzeria in Lisbon. It’s kind of hidden, across from the Santa Apolonia train station, right on the river.

    We have been to several of our favorite places — Carvoeiro da Palma for grilled fish and fresh mango; Treco Lareco, a hole in the wall place with good home cooking but best of all for Joe, mango mousse; and tonight Casanova, the pizzeria with yummy pana cotta. If you are sensing a sweet tooth trail, you would be right, but it’s not mine!

    The Christmas lights are all in place, and I’m hoping we will get a chance to see them lit up. I love Lisbon!
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  • Moving into Work Mode

    5 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    We had 300 kms to drive and all day to do it. So we had a big and very yummy breakfast in the hotel and then got confounded by Google maps, which must not have been up to date on all the horrendous construction in Porto. We finally made it out of the city, only to be messed up again by intersecting super-highways and weirdly placed toll booths.

    But finally we were on the right highway heading in the right direction. I gave Joe several choices of places to stop en route, and he chose Conimbriga, a Roman city founded in the 2nd C BC. Things were great there till the 3rd C AD, when a wall was built to stop the invading Germanic tribes. But the city fell in the 5th C. What remains are some really nice mosaics, ruined baths, a forum with a few columns standing, and a big part of the wall. What’s especially nice about this site is that it’s totally out in the countryside, so you can really get a sense of the layout and the expanse of the city.

    Now here we are in Lisbon, in the same old same old hotel. Two of the doormen recognized us —not surprising since they have been working here for 18 years, which is as long as we’ve been coming!
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  • To Pinhais & Cia.

    4 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The New York Times had an article this summer describing the tour of the Pinhais canning factory, which has retained an entirely manual processing method. The original founding Pinhal family, was ready to close the conservaría (which has been the fate of nearly all of the many canning factories in this area), but a rich Austrian who very much loves these particular sardines bought the factory in 2020. His condition was that the original methods be preserved. And he opened the factory to tours. It was incredibly interesting.

    We started in the original business office, with ornate staircases, beautiful tiles, all the old office equipment. There are a couple of movies (a little hokey) some reels showing old fishing scenes. Then we move to the actual factory, where the work is being done (a M-F visit is highly recommended though they give tours on weekends)

    The line work is all done by women (some in the third or fourth generation). First step, chop off the head and pull out the guts in one swipe of the knife. Another woman cuts off the tail. There’s another line of women that put the special seasoning in each can —clove, Bayleaf, chili pepper, carrot, pickle, and black pepper. Then finally the perfectly cut sardines are placed in the cans. The cans themselves are closed mechanically. But the labels are put on by hand, at a pace of one every six seconds.

    The women seemed to take enormous pride in their work. Many came to greet us on the floor and seemed genuinely happy. The NYT article reported that the women make 800€ a month, which is just minimum wage. I’m not equating job satisfaction with a high salary, but it did surprise me.

    We took a bus out and back, from the Douro to the sea and up the coast a bit. After an hour walk along the water, we headed back. I then took one last walk across the bridge to enjoy the view in late afternoon sun and to watch all the people speaking so many different languages and all enjoying the same beautiful sights.
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  • Day in Porto

    3 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The huge hotel breakfast gave us lots of energy, so from 11-4, Joe snd I walked and visited and walked some more. About 7-8 miles for him today! The trick is frequent stops snd frequent snacks. I stopped counting how many pasteis de nata he has had since we arrived in Portugal.

    We had not intended to stop in the bookstore that is supposedly J. K. Rowling’s inspiration for some of Hogwarts. But she herself has said she was never there! The line was huge and we were walking by. As we stopped to peek at the window, a nice attendant came up and said we could jump the line, no doubt because of our infirm condition. So we paid our €12 and went in. It was mobbed, but it really is a beautiful bookstore.

    From there we got caught up in a huge construction project going on in the middle of the city. Porto is adding a new metro line, a project that will take at least a decade, and it has really made a mess of certain parts of the city. But after we navigated it, we made our way back over to Gaia,, this time on the top level of the bridge. From there, we went to the cathedral and to the Gothic São Francisco church, whose insides have been turned into a Baroque riot.

    I was on my own for a few hours, and just enjoyed going up and down the hills, finding little lookouts, and then walking across the bridge one more time, this time to see the riverside lit up at night. We probably won’t go far for dinner, and hopefully it’ll be an early night to bed.
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  • Into Porto

    2 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I took an early walk through the vineyard and after a scrumptious breakfast (my favorite was a homemade chia mango yoghurt) we headed to Porto. It was an easy drive, at least till we got into the city. Since I’ll be driving the car back to Lisbon on Saturday,, I drove it to a parking garage close to our hotel, which is on a pedestrian street.

    How Porto has changed since we were last here, which was probably almost 15 years ago. Oh so very trendy. Lots of beautiful hotels in old mansions. Ours is in a 16C palace, and has a fitness center with elliptical, so what more could we ask for?

    While Joe napped, I went to the fitness center and then took a walk over the top level of the bridge to Gaia’s Jardim do Morro . Gorgeous views back over the Douro to Porto’s riverside.

    Joe was up and ready to head out with almost two hours of daylight left. We walked down to the river and across to Gaia on the lower level of the bridge this time. Such incredibly beautiful scenes.

    Our hotel is near a million restaurants so dinner will be easy. The last picture is of the biggest penny candy shop I’ve ever seen. They weigh your bag. At 4€ per 100 grams, it’s not cheap.
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  • Douro again!

    1 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    The plan originally was to head to Porto today, but someone at breakfast raved about a place they had stayed, in a working vineyard no less. That was enough for me to change plans. I just love this part of Portugal. So we lolly-gagged around the valley, up and down from the river level to high lookout points, and had a picnic lunch at one of them. On the way, I saw several arrows, reminding me that I had walked through these parts a little more than a month ago.

    By about 3:30, we were checked in to the Casal dos Capelinhos. Joe was starting his nap, and I was walking up and down, back and forth (some rows are parallel to the river, some are perpendicular) from one row of grapes to another. The sun dropped slowly behind the hill in front of us, and it was so peaceful. The time flew by.

    We will eat here tonight, and tomorrow we will definitely go to Porto!
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  • Nothing but Douro

    31 oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The rain returned, so we decided that today was the day to take the chug chug train up the Douro to the end of the line, Pocinho. It goes through a part of the river where the train is the only access, and it is quite beautiful. We had a late breakfast and made our way to the train station for an 11:30 train. We were not the only tourists who were doing this, and it involved an hour ride, a half hour wait, and an hour return. Every inch of it along the river. Turns out we had very little rain and lots of nice views, even in the late fall. Some of the grape leaves are still green, others are red, others are yello, others are brown, and still others have fallen off. It makes for a pretty palate.

    Getting back into Pinhao around 2 pm meant we had a late lunch. We ate just a few little empanadas of chicken and tuna, knowing that we were in for another big meal tonight back at the hotel.

    By the time we were done with lunch, the rain had stopped totally and the sky was dotted with big clouds, little clouds, grey clouds, dark clouds, white clouds. We decided to take about an hour drive up into the vineyards and had some pretty amazing views along with a few walks through open vineyards (we figured the owners wouldn’t mind if we walked through the vineyards instead of along the very narrow highway).

    So that was the sum total of our day — no Roman anything, no medieval cities, no megalithic necropolis! Relaxing and plenty of fresh air with beautiful views. The Douro Valley is really one of my favorite places.
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  • Repeat of yesterday, minus the rain!

    30 oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Well not an exact repeat, because even though we visited Roman ruins and some stone villages with castles, just like yesterday, we added a squat gothic cathedral and a 5,000 year old necropolis to the itinerary.

    First stop, Centum Cellas, a 1st C Roman tower with ruins surrounding it. The plaque describes it as a mystery structure—prison, fortress, religious site, villa? My camino friend Alan, whose footsteps we are following (though he is walking and we are driving) rightly pointed out that the Romans were too smart to build a prison or a fortress with so many windows.

    Sortelha is less touristy than the “aldeia histórica” we visited yesterday (Monsanto), but it was much more accessible for Joe. More compact, beautifully preserved. Sortelha dates back to the 12C and used to be part of the kingdom of León, so it must have changed hands several times in the back and forth wars that ultimately resulted in two separate countries. Just beautiful.

    From there, on to Sabugal, another castle town. I hadn’t originally thought we’d visit so many, but given the rain of yesterday, and the fact that I remembered this castle as having its entrance directly to a street in town, I thought it’d be a good one to end the castle circuit with. Joe didn’t climb up to the walls, but sat in the Plaza de Armas and waved when I hollered from above.

    At this point, I though Joe should choose between another medieval town or a gothic cathedral, and he chose the latter. So we drove to Guarda, and surprisingly drove straight up to the cathedral entrance and slipped in an open parking place. After lunch in a decent place near the cathedral, we visited the cathedral (Joe said his prayers while I climbed to the roof) and then hit the road for our Casa Rural in the Douro.

    On the way, we saw a sign pointing off road to a megalithic necropolis. Usually these signs give no indication of how far off road they are, but this one said 5 km. As we went through town, I stopped to ask a resident if the route was well marked, if it was really 5 km away, and if the road was paved (all of these questions were learned the hard way). She assured me it was, and off we went. There is something pretty awesome about standing out in the middle of nowhere and walking through a stone structure built 5,000 years ago to bury the dead of the people who built it.

    Then back on the road. Coming from the south, we had to descend to the Douro, cross it, and ascend to our place on the other side. It is lovely, the Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros. Dinner at 7:30 - no night driving on these roads for me!
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  • Romans, Castles, and Rain

    29 oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Since Marvao Castle is one of my favorites, I got Joe up there early in the morning for a visit with minimal climbing. Then after breakfast, we drove to Spain, to see Trajan’s bridge (106 AD) over the Tajo/Tejo/Tagus River. I don’t know why I had never heard of it, and it was only thanks to my Camino pal Alan that I knew it was not to be missed. It is spectacular! From there, on to the little historical village of Idanha-a-Velha, where we were able to see some Roman walls and templar towers, and then the rain started.

    Our main destination for the day, the stone village of Monsanto, has become extremely popular in the 8 year interval since we last visited. Parking was difficult (there was one handicapped space open right at the entrance, mocking me for having left Joe’s pass at home). We had about 15 minutes walking on the cobblestone streets through narrow streets and navigating huge boulders. Then the rain started. So I dropped Joe off in a little pastelaria, where he had several empanadas and a few sweets while I climbed up to the castle. Even in the rain, I will climb up to a castle. Thankfully, the rain stopped for a good 20 minutes while I was up there and I was able to climb and enjoy the views. Then a bit more rain while I had a snack in Joe’s place. We did get a good 45 minutes with no rain and enjoyed getting lost in the little narrow streets, it is really a beautiful place.

    We are spending the night in the town of Belmonte. The pousada was full, unfortunately, so we are in town in a modern place that’s fine. I’ve climbed to the castle and explored the judería while Joe naps. That’s a good division of labor for us!
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  • Roman Ruins and Castelo de Vide

    28 oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We left Vila Viçosa after a big breakfast and had about a 75 minute drive through the Alentejo to get to the Roman Ruins of Ammaia. I LOVE the Alentejo — small rolling hills with cork, olive, and scrub oak trees all around. The week of rain they’ve had brought another advantage - all the grass was very green, it was so nice.

    We got to ruins of Ammaia, at one time a city of 2,000, located right on the Roman Road to Mérida. Excavations are ongoing, only started in 1994, but they have excavated the main gateway (with the main entrance arch being spirited away in the late 1700s), the forum and its Jupiter temple, and the baths. Truth be told, we have seen a lot of more complete ruins, but it is, IMHO, always a treat to walk through and contemplate how long ago it was and how they lived. The museum has a lot of little pieces of things, lots of jewelry, and some headless statues of men with robes, of which you’ve probably seen millions. My favorite were the stones that explained to Jupiter someone’s gratitude for fulfilling a wish/desire/prayer. Lovesio was apparently born a slave and freed, and left his carved stone of thanks near what was the altar. I thought Joe should leave some carvings on behalf of the other Loves in our family. Joe did great, and only gave my arm two or three black and blue marks.

    We spent almost all afternoon in Castelo de Vide. It was market day, so parking was tough, but we managed. After lunch of a good salad and sandwich, we walked up to the castle, which opened about 3 minutes after our arrival. Dumb luck. I don’t know what it is with me and castles, but I can’t resist climbing up every step to every tower or lookout point. Joe patiently sat in the keep’s courtyard and waved every time my head popped out.

    Castelo de Vide had a very large Jewish population and their Judería is really very pretty and well preserved. Tough up and down walking for Joe, on cobblestone streets, but in addition to my arm, there was a railing down the center so he was supported on both sides. There is what is thought to have been a synagogue, but I think the experts are not all convinced.

    By 5:00 Joe was taking a nap in our very nice “estalagem” and I embarked on a 90 minute trip through the castle. Marvao Castle has always been one of my very favorites and today was great. So much to climb, so many different vantage points, so many series of embedded walls and protected lookouts. The views are just amazing, and I was there till a few minutes before sunset.

    Our estalagem also owns one of the best restaurants in town, Varanda do Alentejo, and it’s right across the street, so we will eat there. Now that I’ve checked out the castle thoroughly, I can bring Joe back tomorrow to the places that are most accessible for him, and he will not have to sit and watch me climb!
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  • For my historian friends

    28 oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    When we got to the castle in Castelo de Vide, the very nice man at the entrance told us that there was a new museum inside, dedicated to one of Castelo de Vide’s most illustrious sons — Fernando Salgueiro Maia. On April 25, 1974, a 29-year old Captain in the Portuguese army, he brought his batallion(?) from Santarém into Lisbon in a parade of tanks to form part of the Carnation Revolution. He was positioned in Lisbon in the area of Convento do Carmo, where there is also a military barracks. Turns out the president of the government (Caetano someone) had fled there for protection.

    Salgueiro Maia went inside, demanded the resignation of the government, and it finally came. He spoke to the crowd outside with a bull horn to announce that the government had agreed to step down. The museum shows the evolution of his thought and ultimate decision to join with the other “capitaes”. He had fought in both Moçambique and Guinea, and footage showed some of the carnage he witnessed. Convinced that these colonial wars were going nowhere and were atrociously immoral, he decided, as he said that “Há alturas em que é preciso desobedecer.” (there are moments when it is necessary to disobey).

    As you might imagine, he was praised and feted in the aftermath of the revolution. But the story ends sadly. He was offered many positions in the new government, but unlike the other military heroes, he refused to join the government, being firmly of the opinion that military leaders have no business being government leaders. For that he was shunned, ostracized, and his loyalty questioned. It wasn’t until after his death (at a very young age in the 90s, from cancer) that the government gave his widow Portugal’s highest medals of honor.

    He was born in Castelo de Vide in a modest home (father worked for the RR, mother a maid), and is buried, as he wished, in Castelo de Vide. He has three children — two adopted with his wife, who live in Luxembourg and Lisbon, and an out of wedlock son from his early days, who apparently lives in the US.

    I think Castelo de Vide is rightly and enormously proud of this man.
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  • Starting our castle town circle

    27 oktober 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We had a long day of travel yesterday, but I got a few hours sleep on the plane and by 10:30 in the morning we were in our rental car and had dropped off a suitcase at the Marriott for my teaching days. We’ve now got a little more than a week to travel. The first few days will be some castle towns, then the Douro Valley, and then three or four nights in Porto. Then head to Lisbon, and I will have to work. This is my 18th year teaching this two week class, and I have been hoping to make it to 20. But we’ll see, the important thing is to enjoy it while we can!

    I was shocked and a little disappointed to get A car with automatic transmission. Our first stop was Estremoz, a big town or small city in the Alentejo region. It’s perched up on a hill and has a really nice castle as well as a well preserved old quarter. Lots of cobblestones make for slow walking. After lunch we headed to Vila Viçosa, which is where we are staying tonight. In a 16th century convent turned hotel.

    After I plugged the hotel address into my phone, Google maps took us to a dead end in a huge marble quarry. This area has a lot of marble, and you can see it in every town in their benches, in their churches, and even in their castles. It was actually interesting to see the quarry and not too far out of the way.

    While Joe napped I took a long walk around town, explored the castle and almost took a tour of the Duke of Braganza palace. But I remembered from about 15 years ago when we were here that the tour, which is obligatory, lasts an hour and goes through an endless number of rooms. I didn’t think my Portuguese or my interest level was up to it after a few hours sleep, so I just enjoyed the view from the outside.

    The weather is great, low 70s Fahrenheit, with a mix of sun and clouds. The weather app shows rain every day for the next 10 days, but so far so good.
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  • The end.

    12 oktober 2022, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    I have spent two wonderful days with my dearest Spanish friends. They live just steps from trails that take us up into the Guadarrama mountains. It is always a wonderful way for me to transition from Camino mode to home mode. I am now on the flight to Chicago. All good things must end.Meer informatie

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