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- Dag 7
- vrijdag 7 april 2023 om 17:50
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Hoogte: 163 m
Verenigde StatenDisch Field30°15’26” N 97°45’23” W
Second Rainy Day
7 april 2023, Verenigde Staten ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Not exactly what we had in mind, but they need the rain so badly it is hard to even complain a little bit. We spent a big chunk of the day in the Texas History Museum, which focuses on Texas before statehood. Reading the information panels, it seemed like France, Britain and Spain were the puppet masters dictating everything from afar.
For me the highlight of the museum was the hulk of the 17th century La Belle, a sunken ship that had been the last remaining ship of a French expedition, which had been sent to find the Mississippi River in the gulf. It overshot its mark, the captain was killed, and La Belle sank off the coast of what is now Texas. The ship was found and brought up in the 90s and it is a really fascinating exhibit. Lots and lots of artifacts, and the hull itself sits in the main hall.
The kids were entertained for a few hours, enjoying the replica of the Alamo and a lot of gunslinging displays. It was still raining as we left, so we had to find a food truck court with covered seating. Food trucks are absolutely the best way to get good food in Austin when you’ve got a bunch of kids and don’t want to wait for hours for seating or make reservations weeks in advance. For lunch, we went to Briscuits, whose specialty is unsurprisingly, brisket on bisquits. Lots of non-brisket options too, and I can attest to their yumminess.
After lunch, the annual trip to the great-grandparents’ grave, a visit to Joe’s childhood neighborhood, and then a quick stop at a used book store, where all the kids could choose two books each. We had a few hours of chilling back at the rental, which gave us all the energy to head for excellent pizza at Pinthouse Pizza. The more hardy in the group went on to Churro Co., but I took the easy out and headed back to the house with the excuse that baby Tommy needed to get to bed.Meer informatie
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- Dag 6
- donderdag 6 april 2023 om 17:49
- 🌧 11 °C
- Hoogte: 163 m
Verenigde StatenDisch Field30°15’27” N 97°45’23” W
Rainy day in Austin
6 april 2023, Verenigde Staten ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
With 6 kids and 6 adults, even breakfast is a major operation. Hats off to JJ (age 8) and her dad (our resident chef) for a very nice one. Two of the kids had to work remotely, so the remaining 10 loaded up into two cars and headed for the Capitol. We got to see both the House and Senate in action. The House was getting ready for a marathon session to vote on some health care law with 400 amendments, each of which has to be voted on separately. The Senate was debating something that had to do with charter schools and public funding. Not a lot of inspiring rhetorical flourishes. But it was interesting. And the building itself is gorgeous.
Next stop was to show the library to the cousins who hadn’t seen it. We had brought our lunch and ate it in the lobby. And then the kids all got to play on computers and read graphic novels.
Last stop of the day was the Blanton Art Museum. It’s a beautiful building and I especially enjoyed the Latino rooms.
I’ve probably said this already, but it’s so fun to see the grandkids playing together. They are really having a great time. And we’re all learning how to play the very complicated Forbidden Desert.
Dinner soon at Easy Tiger.Meer informatie
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- Dag 5
- woensdag 5 april 2023 om 13:34
- ☁️ 22 °C
- Hoogte: 140 m
Verenigde StatenShoal Creek30°15’57” N 97°45’6” W
Travel woes with a happy ending.
5 april 2023, Verenigde Staten ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
It seemed too good to be true, and then at nine this morning, we learned that son and family were .delayed for at least three hours. Three hours later, their flight was canceled. Nothing to do but keep our fingers crossed.
For our morning fun, we walked to a great park about five blocks from our house. Then across the river to the amazing Austin Public library. Ben and I wondered if red cities go as all out with their libraries as blue cities.
We had lunch at La Santa Barbacha food truck. Some of the most delicious Mexican food I’ve ever had. Topped off with a few games of corn hole.
Then we got the good news that the whole crew of 6 was en route to Austin. By 5:30 we were all at the park and the cousins were running and jumping nonstop. It’s so great to have us all together. Lots of half finished conversations and interruptions, we got to Lucy’s Fried Chicken just in time to get in our order before the kitchen closed and ended the night with frozen bananas at Banarchy.Meer informatie
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- Dag 4
- dinsdag 4 april 2023
- ☁️ 30 °C
- Hoogte: 163 m
Verenigde StatenDisch Field30°15’26” N 97°45’23” W
Daughter and family arrive!
4 april 2023, Verenigde Staten ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
We left Georgetown and headed into our Austin rental. About 40 minutes later , the first family (daughter) arrived and we met at Elizabeth’s (a Vietnamese restaurant).
Since today was forecast to be the only hot day this week, we headed to Barton Springs, a public pool in a natural spring.
Then eating time again, after an hour spent trying to learn the very complicated rules of Forbidden Desert, a collaborative strategy game. Pizza at Buffalina and doughnuts for dessert at Gordoughs. This is our normal Austin routine. Since we’ve been coming so many years, everyone has a handful of must-go to places.
Family number two (son) arrives tomorrow. So glad-happy to be with the kids snd grandkids..Meer informatie
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- Dag 3
- maandag 3 april 2023 om 20:31
- ⛅ 26 °C
- Hoogte: 231 m
Verenigde StatenGeorgetown30°38’22” N 97°41’13” W
Trip to the LBJ sites
3 april 2023, Verenigde Staten ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Yesterday, we were with Joe’s friend Ben and his family, went to brunch, enjoyed the town square (which still has a monument to Confederate soldiers), out to the dam and its resulting lake, all without my phone, so no pictures.
Today we took a road trip, Ben, Joe, and I. It was just great. We left around 9 and headed towards Fredericksburg, which has beoome a tourist destination for its wineries and cutesy main street with lots of Wild West building facades. On the way we took the Willow City Loop, which goes through ranch country with amazing wildflower displays — blue bonnets, Indian Paintbrush, and some white flower we couldn’t identify.
Lunch in Fredericksburg, and a stroll up and down its main street. Since no one in our group is a shopper, we didn’t last long there. From there we headed to LBJ Country. Our first stop was the Texas White House, with stops nearby at the LBJ birthplace, the one-room school where LBJ started school (and where he came back as president to sign the Elementary and Secondary Education Act, with his teacher from those days at his side), the family cemetery where he and Lady Bird are buried, and a drive all around the huge ranch. The Texas White House is closed because of serious structural issues caused when the family added bathrooms and cut down load-bearing walls with abandon, but we could see it from the outside in its lovely location on the banks of the Pernales River. The plane used by LBJ to fly from Washington to his ranch is still there, with the story being that although this plane was an Air Force One, LBJ nick-named it Air Force Half-One because it was so small (seating for 8 or 9).
Here I will add the aside that as someone who came of age in the 60s, LBJ was always associated with Viet Nam in my mind. Hey, hey LBJ, how many kids did you kill today? was a familiar refrain. That image has changed over the years, with many trips to Texas, as I have been reminded of the incredible number of landmark laws that were passed during his presidency, frequently due to nothing other than LBJ’s own sheer force as a politician. The Voting Rights Act, the Environmental Protection Act, Medicare, the Clean Water Act, the list goes on and on.
Our last stop was at another LBJ National Park site in Johnson City (named for a nephew of LBJ’s grandfather, so the Johnson family was clearly a fixture in this part of Texas). There we saw his boyhood home (complete with outhouse!) and a few longhorn cattle there to delight the visitors, like me, who had never seen one. It is probably a trite observation, but to see that a US president began life in a three room house does make an impact.
A great day with a ride home through hill country, blue bonnets everywhere. Too tired to go out for dinner, we will just munch on snacks and head off to slumberland.Meer informatie

ReizigerGreat descriptions, Laurie. Interesting, the many facets of LBJ. Why was his wife called "Lady Bird"? I guess I could look for the answer myself, but since I'm pretty sure you know, I'll ask you first. I wish you a great stay with friends and family. Hope to see pictures of the little ones.

Laurie ReynoldsAccording to what I saw there are several stories but the family says it was either a relative or her nursemaid who said she’s pretty as a ladybird.

ReizigerLaurie, your comments brought to life the sheer joy I felt on reading Robert Caro’s masterful multi-volume biography of LBJ. It does justice to the many conflicting facets of his character. The school years occupy almost all of vol 1.

joseph love
At least in Austin, all confederate monuments have been moved to the basements of the state’s museums.
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- Dag 3
- maandag 3 april 2023 om 20:24
- 🌧 26 °C
- Hoogte: 231 m
Verenigde StatenGeorgetown30°38’22” N 97°41’13” W
Champaign to Austin
3 april 2023, Verenigde Staten ⋅ 🌧 26 °C
Travel day is never a lot of fun, but this was the first trip in a while without travel delays, unscheduled stops in strange airports, or some other travel screw-up. Champaign to Chicago to Austin. We are here for our annual trip to Joe’s hometown, and will spend our first few days in Georgetown, Tx, where a good high school friend of Joe’s now lives. Than on Tuesday we head into our AirBnb in central Austin and get excited as both kids and their families come in from San Francisco and Chicago. Can’t wait!Meer informatie
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- Dag 7
- woensdag 15 maart 2023 om 20:04
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Hoogte: 1.551 m
MexicoOaxaca City17°3’51” N 96°43’15” W
Travel day —make that DAYS
15 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Thursday night before heading to our wonderful meal in Quince Letras, I got a travel alert from American. Bad weather tomorrow in Dallas and did I want to change my flight . My few attempts to contact AA we’re unsuccessful, so I just left everything as it was.
I thought things were looking up when we boarded our flight in Oaxaca, headed to Dallas, just a few minutes late. I was wrong.
Storms in Dallas meant we had to divert to Houston to get more fuel. After about 90 minutes on the runway, they cancelled the rest of the flight. The plan was to get to Dallas in the morning.
They told me the only way to get home before Tuesday was to fly into Bloomington from Dallas. But then while I was waiting for the hotel voucher, two seats on the Dallas flight to Champaign for today magically, opened up.
We had a night in an airport hotel, and got on the 630 shuttle to get back to the airport for our 9 AM flight. Halfway to the airport I realized Joe did not have his backpack. I called the hotel, and they were very unhelpful. Since the pack contained our very expensive alebrije, and since the very nice driver assured us he would get us back right away, we took the chance . And here we are in Houston airport once again.
So here we go, starting Day #2 of travel. Hoping it is uneventful.
Edited to add that we made it to Dallas, and our flight to Champaign leaves in about 90 minutes. To top it all off, it is SUNNY! We are the beneficiaries of someone else’s travel woes, because the flights to Champaign are all full for days.
Just so I won’t lose track of the names of the restaurants we enjoyed, here they are:
I’d recommend them all. La Catedral (in the patio), Casa Oaxaca, Maguey y Maíz, Asador Vasco (good fish), Danzantes, Origen, La Pitiona, Tierra del Sol (the only one that wouldn’t get a strong thumbs up from me). And our last night in 15 Letras was fabulous, on the roof terrace.
Coffee and breakfasts. Boulenc, Filemón, and Jazz.Meer informatie

ReizigerSo sorry to hear about all your troubles due to bad weather, Laurie. The hotel staff were not nice, but the taxi driver was. There is still hope in humanity! Joe is missing his Café Médico as we speak. Hope you get back home safely today.

ReizigerFeel for you / those delays are stressful . Getting to Dallas often seems to be a stormy ride !!

mary louise adamsIt also took me two days. And the people who stayed upstairs from me and left a few days earlier!
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- Dag 7
- woensdag 15 maart 2023 om 15:09
- ☁️ 25 °C
- Hoogte: 1.563 m
MexicoMuseo de Arte Prehispánico de México "Rufino Tamayo"17°3’49” N 96°43’35” W
Last day in Oaxaca
15 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
We had saved the visit to the Archaeological Museum till our last day, so my heart sank as I saw rows of police barricades all around the square. The TV crews were there to film an episode of Top Chef, and the contestants were lining up to start racing around their portable kitchens set up outside in the sun.
Luckily there was a narrow passageway open to let museum-goers around the square. It’s a real treasure trove of all sorts of artifacts— jewels, household goods, religious statuary, and burial urns and masks. Most were found at Monte Alban and are very nicely displayed. The most spectacular room houses the find in Tomb7 from the 1400s, after the Miztecas took Monte Alban from the Zapotecas. Most of the other rooms house much earlier stuff, from several centuries BC till the decline of the city around 800 AD. Lots of wows.
I had never taken a city bus tour but as we left the museum one was filling up, so we got on. An hour around the city, seen from the top of a double decker. I don’t imagine there are too many cities where the drivers of these buses have to warn riders to duck to avoid either branches or (more ominously) electrical wires. It was a fun way to wrap up the touring and luckily no one was decapitated.
One more nap for Joe, one more neighborhood stroll for me, and one more dinner. The author of the Moonstruck guide reports that after eating dinner at the restaurant we’re going to (15 Letras), he had tears of joy because it was so good. That strikes me as a bit hyperbolic but it should be good!
P.S. I just got a travel alert from American, advising me of thunderstorms in Dallas tomorrow. So who knows where we will sleep tomorrow night!Meer informatie

ReizigerWow - there is always something new to see and learn about if you get out there. Thanks for sharing this trip Laurie. It is inspiring.

ReizigerWonderful last day in Oaxaca, Laurie. Glad you were able to visit the museum. Have a safe flight tomorrow!

mary louise adamsHa! I read that same comment about that restaurant! Did you feel the same way? 🙂
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- Dag 6
- dinsdag 14 maart 2023 om 18:42
- ☁️ 21 °C
- Hoogte: 1.557 m
MexicoMuseo de Arte Prehispánico de México "Rufino Tamayo"17°3’46” N 96°43’36” W
Restaurants and cafes.
14 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
I want to keep a list of good restaurants we’ve enjoyed so I won’t forget. In no particular order I’d recommend them all. La Catedral, Casa Oaxaca, Maguey y Maíz, Asador Vasco (good fish), Danzantes, Origen, La Pitiona, Tierra del Sol (the only one that wouldn’t get a strong thumbs up from me). And our last night in 15 Letras.
Coffee and breakfasts. Boulenc, Filemón, and Jazz.Meer informatie
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- Dag 6
- dinsdag 14 maart 2023 om 16:19
- ☁️ 24 °C
- Hoogte: 1.576 m
MexicoOaxaca City17°4’9” N 96°43’28” W
Wandering
14 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
I had heard about two different barrios with lots of houses with murals on the wall. Xochimilco and Jalatluda. Joe was in slow mode today, so this was a good way to spend our time. I was able to plan a walking route that included churches and parks (pews and benches are always appreciated) as we went through the barrios. The murals are fantastic —some whimsical, some political, some just weird.
Dance classes in the park, school bands practicing, speeches of some political stripe. There’s always something to watch. Especially since we had no real agenda or itinerary. We were going to go to the Archaeological Museum today, but decided to spend today outside to enjoy a break in the high temps we’ve been having. If I were a shopper I’d be in heaven because it seems to be the main thing people do when they walk around the city.
We did pop into a few churches and as always found only a handful of women (usually but not always old like me). We spent some time in a convent turned research library. Very interesting presentations on the excavations nearby and the evidence that Zapotecas were here in force when the Spaniards came calling.
We have eaten a cautious amount of street food, but typically play it safe. It’s almost as much fun to watch the preparations and the people.
I’ve met four women in our hotel, two of whom have walked the camino. They seem to be sitting outside in the patio while Joe is napping, so it’s been fun to talk about my favorite activity with them.Meer informatie

mary louise adamsThat mural with all the different figures on the pink house was at the corner of the block where I stayed. 🙂
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- Dag 5
- maandag 13 maart 2023 om 15:51
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Hoogte: 1.559 m
MexicoOaxaca City17°3’33” N 96°43’31” W
Artesanato Day
13 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
I am not a good shopper but I do love seeing the real artisans using traditional methods of craftsmanship. They are fighting the wave of cheap imported copies, and may ultimately lose the battle. But going out to the pueblos and watching them at work was very interesting and gave hope that the traditional methods will survive.
We went to four different pueblos, one was dedicated to red clay, one to weaving, one to black clay, and one to making those fantastic painted alebrijes. Each town had its own artisans, all working by hand to produce high quality products.
But aahhh the alebrijes. They are creatures made by combining several real animals into one, and the result is something half-real, half-fantasy. All based in Zapoteca tradition. The process is incredibly labor intensive. From carving the copal wood and then drying it and treating it before painting. One guy in the taller does nothing other than prepare the carved wood for painting. This involves filling the cracks that have emerged spontaneously as the wood dries. And then sanding. All by hand. Then comes the painting, omg the painting.. The paints are plant based and then mixed with either honey or mezcal to change the shade or the brilliance. Each little pot of paint made by hand and mixed with love. And each tiny row of minuscule geometric design on the figures reproduces some Zapoteca symbol—for love, sorrow, fidelity, honor, etc. It takes weeks to paint one of these figurines.
Ok I confess I bought one. It was what Joe would call an impulse purchase but it’s beautiful and fantastical. And it felt good to support the preservation of these traditions in some small way.
We’re now sitting on a terrace in a restaurant overlooking the Zocalo, with music playing a marimba and spontaneous dancing by anyone so inclined. Sone seem professional, most just there for fun. Our waiter tells us this happens every night.
Lots of traditions seem to be surviving!Meer informatie

ReizigerI LOVE Alebrijes! Of course you had to buy one - they are fabulous. :-)
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- Dag 4
- zondag 12 maart 2023 om 19:42
- 🌙 19 °C
- Hoogte: 1.557 m
MexicoMuseo de Arte Prehispánico de México "Rufino Tamayo"17°3’46” N 96°43’36” W
Travel by TAXI!
12 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ 🌙 19 °C
I am so glad I gave up on the idea of renting a car. A little more luxurious than our normal way to travel, but Omar, our taxista from yesterday, said he would be glad to drive us around. We felt so pampered — left off right at the entrance, picked up whenever we appeared, it was great! We liked it so much, we are going to do it again tomorrow, I’m embarrassed to say. He came up with a great itinerary today and promises more of the same tomorrow.
The highlight of the day was our first stop, Mitla, another Zapoteca city, which was the religious capital of the Zapotecas after Monte Albán started its decline. It survived until the Spanish conquest, and as frequently happened, much of the site was destroyed and repurposed to build the church. Luckily, the Spaniards must not have wanted geometric designs in their churches, because there are many untouched friezes of unique geometric mosaics, rows and rows ringing the tops of the now roof-less buildings.
The rest of the day was a bit of this and a bit of that — we went to Hierve el Agua, beautiful mineral springs where the water bubbles up from underground and its minerals are deposited as the water flows down the cliffs to the pools, making stalagtites (though they call them “petrified waterfalls” here). Spectacular setting overlooking a valley and a ring of mountains, and the water is bright blue-green. We didn’t have our suits, but got our legs wet.
Then to a family mezcal-making place, using donkeys, old barrels, lots of manual labor. The young father leaves his 15 year old in charge of the production, while he spends his time caring for the plants. He talked almost lovingly about the different kinds of agave and how he brings them to maturity. But what a life — very little production must translate into very little income.
We spent some time in one of those chokingly crowded Sunday markets, in Tlacolula. I love walking through and gawking, but the thought of actually buying something there is of absolutely no interest. I am just a bad shopper. At Omar´s suggestion, we had some plates of roasted goat and lamb, slow-cooked by the vendors and served with, of course, homemade tortillas. Then another Zapoteca site, Yagul, with its perfectly untouched ball court.
We ended the day with a trip to a friend of Omar’s whose family makes weavings with organic dyes and hand looms. The whole town, whose name I can’t remember, seems to be a textile/rug mecca. Oh yes, one last stop at the Tule tree, a Montezuma cypress (whatever that is) reported to have the largest tree trunk in Latin America. I am glad that Joe resisted the urge to challenge Omar when he made the claim, but he couldn’t avoid an eye roll. One really interesting tidbit, at least for those who love local government like I do, was the fact that this town is one of “usos y costumbres.” No political parties, ruling by consensus and unwritten norms, sort of sounds like a New England Town Hall. I would love to know more.
We have had a sensory overload of the best type and will settle for sandwiches from the very excellent bakery down the street, Boulenc. The lines start at 8:15 in the morning and seem to be a permanent feature. Getting takeout requires less of a wait.Meer informatie

ReizigerAn amazing day! I spent a month in Oaxaca in 2017 - and you did in one day what took me several! Sounds like Omar is a great tour guide. You don’t believe the claim about the Tule? I think it’s trunk is indeed the widest in Latin America, if not the world.

ReizigerHiring a local guide is a great thing to do - much better than renting a car. It all sounds so interesting!
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- Dag 3
- zaterdag 11 maart 2023 om 20:22
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Hoogte: 1.557 m
MexicoMuseo de Arte Prehispánico de México "Rufino Tamayo"17°3’46” N 96°43’36” W
Weddings
11 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
We had a few hours to walk around before dinner, so what better thing to do than head towards Plaza Santo Domingo , where something always seems to be happening. And oh yes, today is wedding day. Very festive processions, with the wedding party, bands, big balloons, and a variety of people in all sorts of traditional garb. I saw the people sitting next to me on the plane, dancing their way down the street in one of the wedding parties!
We saw at least five over the course of an hour. Oaxaca must be a destination wedding hotspot because most of the balloons announced couples who were not likely local. “Casey y Summer,” “Chris y Ellen.” But no matter where they were from, they all seem to be having a grand time.
We then made it down to our restaurant called La Catedral, for a really good meal. We are eating well and enjoying those meals in beautiful patios and terraces.Meer informatie
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- Dag 3
- zaterdag 11 maart 2023 om 14:37
- ⛅ 30 °C
- Hoogte: 1.557 m
MexicoMuseo de Arte Prehispánico de México "Rufino Tamayo"17°3’46” N 96°43’36” W
To Monte Alban
11 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
This morning we took a cab to the Monte Alban archaeological site. There are about 20 buildings pyramids,, a beautiful ball court and an observatory. We did not have a guide because we needed to do this at our own rhythm.
I bought a little book in the bookstore, so we had plenty of information. Although there were a few flights of steps that were fairly hairy, Joe managed to navigate them all without mishap. He used the hiking poles and they worked well on the uneven terrain. I think he did very well and enjoyed the visit, even though he did spend some time sitting in the shade while I climbed up and down.
In spite of all the archaeological studies, there’s still so much mystery surrounding these places. Carvings that were once thought to be dancers, are now considered to be dead castrated prisoners. And apparently no one has ever figured out what the rules of the ball game were. According to what I have read, injury, and death were probably a part of the playbook. And all those standing stones or special obelisks with unknown astrological purpose. So much we don’t know about the past!
There was a huge poster, put together by the technical and professional staff of the national Institute of archaeology and history (INAH), complaining that the organization has received no budget for the last couple of years. Ringing the warning, bell and hoping for some action.
I had considered renting a car and taking a few day trips, but that is definitely off the table now that we’ve been in the midst Oaxaca traffic. Omar, the taxista who took us today, is going to pick us up tomorrow and take us out for another half day trip. He described a lot of options so I’m sure we’ll be in good hands. We make a habit of this since we still have four days here!
Nap time is over. Heading for a stroll and dinner at another highly recommended restaurant. The life of Riley.Meer informatie

ReizigerInteresting ruins, beautiful pictures. They remind me of Tiwanaku in Bolivia, where there is a similar gate (more elaborate than this one) called Puerta del Sol. Instead of carvings of contorted men, they have heads sticking out of a wall. Who knows what all if this means. Pre-Hispanic sites are so enigmatic!

Nils Jacobsen
Hi Laurie, Wonderful pictures. Somehow inthe intro courses to Lat.Am history we never introduce the zapotecs. I don't even remember when they flourished. Monte Alban would suggest that they had a pretty grand state. Modern Oaxaca also sounds like a appealing place. Will you go down to the Pacific coast? Nils

Laurie ReynoldsNo, we are staying inland. We had a great taxi driver this morning and he suggested a couple of trips to different places in the valleys near here, so we’ll stay put. The ocean is about six hours away.
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- Dag 2
- vrijdag 10 maart 2023 om 18:16
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Hoogte: 1.558 m
MexicoTemplo Santo Domingo de Guzman17°3’54” N 96°43’22” W
First day, the sights of Oaxaca
10 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
This was a day with a ton of little snippets and no through line, if that makes sense. Parks, markets, street musicians, the Stamp museum with its VW covered in stamps and a treasure trove of Frida Kahlo letters, a few markets, more parks, lots of street vendors. You can’t go for more than a block without running into something that makes clear I’m far from Illinois.
Mostly joyful with a few sad parts thrown in. A woman in tears because she had been robbed, and a wooden wall with many posters snd graphics protesting the disappearance of loved ones. Two men going at it in a square. My phone tells me I’ve walked 17 miles and Joe’s 10., so there were a lot of steps from one street scene to the next. I loved it.
Oaxaca is bursting with tourists, lots of cheap trinkets and guys hawking tours or mezcal tastings. I can’t compare it to how things were before the invasion. But I’m loving it just how it is!Meer informatie

ReizigerI love the VW covered in stamps! I imagine the streets are noisy with traffic and voices, the air polluted, and the heat intense. If that's the case, Oaxaca may not be very different from other cities in Latin America. Hope you get some rest tonight!

ReizigerMarimbas y marimberos! Awesome. What is that green concoction? You leisurely walked 17 miles? OMG!

Laurie ReynoldsWell when you walk with your phone, every step counts. Vi a una niña con camiseta de Mafalda y pensé en ti. 😀 La bebida verde es una limonada mezclada con algunas hierbas que no me acuerdo.

ReizigerQue maravilloso que estén en Oaxaca. Todos mis amigos mexicanos dicen que la comida ahí es espectacular. Que bueno que estés en Español! Verdaderamente 17 millas dando vueltas en la ciudad. Eres única. 🚶🏽♀️🚶🏽♀️🚶🏽♀️🚶🏽♀️
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- Dag 1
- donderdag 9 maart 2023 om 17:14
- ⛅ 26 °C
- Hoogte: 1.554 m
MexicoMuseo de Arte Prehispánico de México "Rufino Tamayo"17°3’46” N 96°43’35” W
Arrived!
9 maart 2023, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Based on daughter’s rave reviews, I decided we’d go to Oaxaca for spring break. With her and ML’s recommendations, we can spend most of the time eating.
It was a very easy trip from Champaign to Dallas to Oaxaca. Much easier than going through Mexico City, I’m sure. The only downside was a very early flight. But here we are in our hotel, and I’ve done a brief reconnaissance walk while Joe naps. Since we got up at four, I think it’ll be an early night for me. I think the three adjectives I would use are sunny, chaotic, and vibrant.
I had forgotten to let the bank know we were going, so my first four tries at getting money were failures. Thanks to my two guardian angels back in Champaign, though, it was just a matter of minutes till it was all fixed. Niralee and Abbie, you are the best!Meer informatie
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- Dag 24
- zaterdag 19 november 2022 om 06:47
- 🌙 -7 °C
- Hoogte: 244 m
Verenigde StatenChampaign40°6’60” N 88°15’29” W
Home again
19 november 2022, Verenigde Staten ⋅ 🌙 -7 °C
Yesterday was travel day from hell, but we are home!
First, the fire alarm in the Marriott started going off at 2:30 in the morning and it kept on going off and on intermittently till our 4 am wake up call. By 4:30 we were out of the hotel and on the way to the airport, so I don’t know how long it kept on beeping.
The one real high point of the day was that I ran into an old UI student of mine (graduation class 2009), who has moved to Lisbon with her husband and settled there permanently. She practices law remotely with a Texas firm, and her husband does something tech related. We had a great catch-up and promised that if I make it back next year, we will get together.
That was the end of the fun. The flight from Lisbon to London was late, reducing our transfer time to 1 hour and 10 minutes. The very helpful BA flight attendant insisted Joe needed assistance, though I knew he was quite capable of walking it and am not sure why I went along with this. But it meant we had to wait till the plane emptied to deplane, only to find that the “buggy” he had ordered was not there. It arrived a few minutes later, and the driver then told us that the buggy could only take us to the spot where we had to go upstairs to go through security again. So we in essence waited 20 minutes for a 3 minute buggy ride, which would have taken Joe no more than 10, in my estimation. The line was snaking at security, but we jumped to the front. Joe and I go through different lines and for some reason his shoes had to come off while mine didn’t. And then he couldn’t find where his shoes had gone! Then rush down two levels, which are not connected by the same elevator, to get to the level for the shuttle which would take us close to our gate. As we were waiting for the shuttle, I saw that our flight was flashing “final boarding,” which made my heart sink. But I am glad we didn’t just call it quits. At that point, the shuttle arrived and emptied out, but they had to do the “security check”, a manual inspection of all five cars, which took another several minutes. We got to the gate as the agent was actually closing the first boarding door. BUT… the very nice woman called the people at the second door (a floor down from the main entrance) and told them to hold it for a few minutes. As we showed our boarding passes, mine triggered a random extra security search. But since they assured me that we were through and would make the flight, those few extra minutes just gave us time to catch our breath and look less frazzled when we actually boarded. We had not done a Heathrow transfer in many years, and you can be sure I will now avoid it at all costs.
Once we sat down, and the doors closed, nothing happened. About 15 minutes later, a very apologetic and polite British voice told us that the refrigeration system for the food wasn’t working, and they had to order some dry ice as a substitute. And then of course the mechanics had to fill out several maintenance forms, etc etc. So as a result, our flight was more than an hour late. I will say though, that the food we got was several orders of magnitude more edible than what we have had recently on American or Iberia. We even had an “afternoon tea” before touchdown, clotted cream included.
Note to self: Do not arrive in Chicago’s international arrivals on the weekend before Thanksgiving. The lines were horrendous, the luggage pick-up and drop-off area just chaotic, and the train back to the main terminal crushed worse than the sardines I brought back from Lisbon. Getting through security was another ordeal, slower than molasses, but finally we got through, only to learn that our Champaign flight would be delayed by about an hour. At that point, we just shrugged and figured the worse was over. And we are now home!Meer informatie

ReizigerHi Laurie, indeed an awful travel experience. Your Heathrow experience is par for that airport. That's my no 1 airport to avoid.I am glad you are home and Irene and I are looking forward to seeing you soon.Abrazos, Nils

Laurie ReynoldsTotally agree. But as I was navigating international arrivals in O’Hare yesterday, the Brit next to me said with amazement — “I never thought I’d find a worse airport than Heathrow, but I have!”
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- Dag 18
- zondag 13 november 2022 om 18:53
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Hoogte: 116 m
PortugalSete Rios38°44’49” N 9°9’51” W
Persistence and Resistance
13 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
First, the persistence. Joe kept insisting he was sure where he left his glasses, so I decided the best option was to go take a look. It would have been a great story! No luck, though the woman in the park’s café told me she had a huge ring of keys, including two car keys, that someone lost yesterday. So I think we got off lucky, just losing glasses.
From there we decided to go to the Aljube, a former political prison during the Salazar dictatorship. It has been turned into the Museum of the Resistance. We had been there ten years ago when it first opened, and it was just as chilling as before. So many displays of inhumanity. The last rooms of the permanent exhibition end with an upbeat recounting of the Carnation Revolution — deposing a dictatorship without firing a shot. I thought the museum struck the right tone — not too pollyanish but clear in its message that there was a good side and a bad side.
I found a public elevator I had never seen before — takes you straight down into the middle of the Alfama, the old moorish neighborhood below the castle walls. We hadn’t been down there because there are just too many uneven surfaces, ups and downs, nooks and crannies. But Joe was game, so dowon we went. We did wind up doing a fair amount of up and down through tiny narrow passageways. It is becoming quite the trendy area — lots of Air BnBs, restaurants, souvenir shops, etc, but there are still real people living there, all of whom seem to do their wash on Sunday and hang it outside.
Our plan was to walk down to the center and catch a cab back to the hotel. But there was no traffic going through the streets. I thought surely there must be some huge political demonstration going on, but after walking a mile or so up from the center towards our hotel, we saw that it was an Antique Car Association gathering that had blocked off the main drag in town and essentially stopped traffic going into the historic core. The cops we asked about it were not big fans, but some of these cars were real gems.
Finally, about two hours later and three more miles walked than hoped for, we found a cab and made it back to the hotel. Teaching starts up tomorrow bright and early.Meer informatie

ReizigerThe Museum of the Resistance reminds me of the "Museo de la memoria" here in Córdoba. So many atrocities committed by the military, so much cruelty, so much impunity. It's important to be aware of these events from the recent past. Your description of old narrow passageways being turned into hip areas reminded me of tiny houses, some dating from the Middle Ages, carefully restored, that can be seen all over Germany. Love your pictures of Lisbon.

ReizigerSo, the big question might be how they got rid of the dictatorship without violence. The main answer is likely the role of the army (not all of them? I think), but I think another element was widespread strikes. Some of these were still on

Laurie ReynoldsI am no historian, as you know, but the museum did not make a big deal about public or widespread citizen unrest before the revolution, though there were panels describing student movements, the underground resistance, etc. The focus seemed to be the freedom movements in the African colonies and how those had cascading effects on the military’s resolve to continue the colonial regime. But I defer to those who know what they are talking about.
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- Dag 17
- zaterdag 12 november 2022 om 19:02
- 🌙 16 °C
- Hoogte: 113 m
PortugalSete Rios38°44’48” N 9°9’52” W
Tram museum and some wandering
12 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
The Tram museum is not a 5* attraction but it’s really interesting. It’s housed in the actual huge Carris maintenance and garage facility. You can see some of the original cars (and actually get a ride on one of the very first electric trams from the early 1900s), but it also gives a very good history of the transformation of the company. From a few horse drawn wagon type trams (called “americanos,” perhaps because one of the two owners was from Brazil), and then the laying of rails throughout the city, lots of fascinating pictures. It was also really interesting to see how different the ethos of the company was back then. There was a barbershop on the premises and all employees were required to be well shaved and coiffed. All men in dress shirt and ties.
Our plan was to visit the Arte Antica museum next, but when we got there they told us that the Hieronymus Bosch painting (which is really the stand out of the European collection) was on loan, and that the entire floor of Portuguese painting (which has some medieval work that I like) was about to close for a two hours lunch break. So we went to Plan B, which involved walking around through the fancy embassy neighborhood and then having lunch in our favorite Lisbon park, Estrela. We were then able to get on the tram 28 for a ride across town to some of the great Miradouros over the Alfama and the Tagus river.
Joe lost his glasses, which is quite the bummer. But he is having some laser glaucoma treatment when we get home so he may need new glasses anyway. Nothing to be done about it for the time being.
Still waiting for some election results!Meer informatie

ReizigerBeautiful shots of Lisbon as usual. The tram museum sounds like something Nils would really enjoy; I'll make sure he reads your post and looks at the photos. RE Bosch: I love his paintings! Your story about going to an art museum and finding out that the "star" is missing happened to me in July 2000. I was in Madrid, already in El Prado, and what do you know? "The Garden of Earthly Delights" was being restored. Aaargh!
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- Dag 16
- vrijdag 11 november 2022 om 13:47
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Hoogte: 74 m
PortugalSete Rios38°44’38” N 9°10’34” W
Caminho friends and more tiles
11 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
My teaching week ended yesterday. In the past, we have always rented a car and headed out of town for three days. This year we decided to stay and enjoy the weekend in Lisboa.
Last night we met up with five Caminho friends. I go way back with Jose Luiz and Natercia, who are the founders and still the prime movers of the Via Lusitana, the Portuguese friends of the caminho association. The rest of us were just plain old Caminho addicts, except for Joe, who went along for the fun of it. A good time was had by all, and we were all given a pretty Portuguese credential as well as a nice Via Lusitana pin. It will go on my camino hat next to my little arrow pin.
Today we decided to revisit the Palace of the Marques da Fronteira, which is a bit off the beaten path. It’s a 17th century palace, founded by the first Marques, who got his title for his role in the war for independence from Spain. It is still inhabited by the noble family. It has amazing tiles, most made in Portugal but some from outside. Interesting tidbit—I learned why the grotto walls are covered with broken pieces of china. It turns out that King Pedro II attended the celebratory dinner when the palace was completed. According to tradition, any plates used by the king or used to serve the king could never be reused. So they were smashed and became part of the decor.
A long walk brought us within striking distance of our hotel, and we hopped on a bus for the last km or two.Meer informatie
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- Dag 14
- woensdag 9 november 2022 om 21:00
- 🌙 15 °C
- Hoogte: 86 m
PortugalCampo Grande38°44’52” N 9°10’6” W
Tile Museum
9 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 15 °C
Since I’m teaching from 10-1, mornings are out. But I try to get us out and about in the afternoons.
Today we went to the Tile Museum, where we hadn’t been for 15 years. It’s in a 17th C convent with an over the top baroque church (is that redundant?).
We enjoyed it very much, especially the 18th century tiles depicting Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake. And there are lots of beautiful tiles from the 14C forward.
We had taken an Uber to get to the museum. But getting back to the hotel was a challenge, because the museum had no wifi, and I have no telephone service. And it is in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, I had Peggy and Mike’s unused transit cards, so we hopped on a bus to the center. After walking for a few kms, we picked up a cab and got back to the hotel.
Tonight we went to one of our two favorite hole-in-the-wall places. Freshly caught fish, garlicky green beans, and for the sweets-lover, a leite creme.Meer informatie

Reiziger
That looks like a big juicy steak to me (not the fish kind)... Glad to read and see that Joe has a healthy appetite!

ReizigerGorgeous pictures, Laurie. And all that walking means you two can eat whatever you want and not worry about gaining weight. I'm happy you are enjoying your teaching, after all these years.
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- Dag 13
- dinsdag 8 november 2022 om 20:25
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Hoogte: 116 m
PortugalSete Rios38°44’49” N 9°9’51” W
Our favorite pizzeria
8 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Two days of teaching, which I am enjoying immensely, and a lot of rain. Today at about 3 pm, the skies cleared, and we hopped in an Uber (there were no cabs outside the hotel, so we had no choice) and headed for the historic center. We walked and walked, feeling quite at home and happy to be here. Down Avenida da Liberdade, through Rossio, down to the river, and over to Casanova, our favorite pizzeria in Lisbon. It’s kind of hidden, across from the Santa Apolonia train station, right on the river.
We have been to several of our favorite places — Carvoeiro da Palma for grilled fish and fresh mango; Treco Lareco, a hole in the wall place with good home cooking but best of all for Joe, mango mousse; and tonight Casanova, the pizzeria with yummy pana cotta. If you are sensing a sweet tooth trail, you would be right, but it’s not mine!
The Christmas lights are all in place, and I’m hoping we will get a chance to see them lit up. I love Lisbon!Meer informatie
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- Dag 10
- zaterdag 5 november 2022 om 21:22
- 🌙 13 °C
- Hoogte: 116 m
PortugalSete Rios38°44’49” N 9°9’51” W
Moving into Work Mode
5 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
We had 300 kms to drive and all day to do it. So we had a big and very yummy breakfast in the hotel and then got confounded by Google maps, which must not have been up to date on all the horrendous construction in Porto. We finally made it out of the city, only to be messed up again by intersecting super-highways and weirdly placed toll booths.
But finally we were on the right highway heading in the right direction. I gave Joe several choices of places to stop en route, and he chose Conimbriga, a Roman city founded in the 2nd C BC. Things were great there till the 3rd C AD, when a wall was built to stop the invading Germanic tribes. But the city fell in the 5th C. What remains are some really nice mosaics, ruined baths, a forum with a few columns standing, and a big part of the wall. What’s especially nice about this site is that it’s totally out in the countryside, so you can really get a sense of the layout and the expanse of the city.
Now here we are in Lisbon, in the same old same old hotel. Two of the doormen recognized us —not surprising since they have been working here for 18 years, which is as long as we’ve been coming!Meer informatie

ReizigerGood detailed account of your days as usual, Laurie. It's a warm feeling when people far away recognize you when they see you again, every year or once every few years. Nils and I have that happen to us with the staff of the Hotel Miraflores, in Lima. It makes you feel less "foreign."
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- Dag 9
- vrijdag 4 november 2022 om 09:29
- ☁️ 11 °C
- Hoogte: 62 m
PortugalPalácio dos Maias41°8’37” N 8°36’47” W
To Pinhais & Cia.
4 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
The New York Times had an article this summer describing the tour of the Pinhais canning factory, which has retained an entirely manual processing method. The original founding Pinhal family, was ready to close the conservaría (which has been the fate of nearly all of the many canning factories in this area), but a rich Austrian who very much loves these particular sardines bought the factory in 2020. His condition was that the original methods be preserved. And he opened the factory to tours. It was incredibly interesting.
We started in the original business office, with ornate staircases, beautiful tiles, all the old office equipment. There are a couple of movies (a little hokey) some reels showing old fishing scenes. Then we move to the actual factory, where the work is being done (a M-F visit is highly recommended though they give tours on weekends)
The line work is all done by women (some in the third or fourth generation). First step, chop off the head and pull out the guts in one swipe of the knife. Another woman cuts off the tail. There’s another line of women that put the special seasoning in each can —clove, Bayleaf, chili pepper, carrot, pickle, and black pepper. Then finally the perfectly cut sardines are placed in the cans. The cans themselves are closed mechanically. But the labels are put on by hand, at a pace of one every six seconds.
The women seemed to take enormous pride in their work. Many came to greet us on the floor and seemed genuinely happy. The NYT article reported that the women make 800€ a month, which is just minimum wage. I’m not equating job satisfaction with a high salary, but it did surprise me.
We took a bus out and back, from the Douro to the sea and up the coast a bit. After an hour walk along the water, we headed back. I then took one last walk across the bridge to enjoy the view in late afternoon sun and to watch all the people speaking so many different languages and all enjoying the same beautiful sights.Meer informatie

Laurie ReynoldsJoe would be glad to have you take me away, I think he’s exhausted.
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- Dag 8
- donderdag 3 november 2022 om 19:03
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Hoogte: 65 m
PortugalPalácio dos Maias41°8’38” N 8°36’52” W
Day in Porto
3 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
The huge hotel breakfast gave us lots of energy, so from 11-4, Joe snd I walked and visited and walked some more. About 7-8 miles for him today! The trick is frequent stops snd frequent snacks. I stopped counting how many pasteis de nata he has had since we arrived in Portugal.
We had not intended to stop in the bookstore that is supposedly J. K. Rowling’s inspiration for some of Hogwarts. But she herself has said she was never there! The line was huge and we were walking by. As we stopped to peek at the window, a nice attendant came up and said we could jump the line, no doubt because of our infirm condition. So we paid our €12 and went in. It was mobbed, but it really is a beautiful bookstore.
From there we got caught up in a huge construction project going on in the middle of the city. Porto is adding a new metro line, a project that will take at least a decade, and it has really made a mess of certain parts of the city. But after we navigated it, we made our way back over to Gaia,, this time on the top level of the bridge. From there, we went to the cathedral and to the Gothic São Francisco church, whose insides have been turned into a Baroque riot.
I was on my own for a few hours, and just enjoyed going up and down the hills, finding little lookouts, and then walking across the bridge one more time, this time to see the riverside lit up at night. We probably won’t go far for dinner, and hopefully it’ll be an early night to bed.Meer informatie

ReizigerThat bookstore somewhat resembles a big one in Buenos Aires that used to be a movie theater (El Ateneo, on calle Corrientes, if you ever want to go!). And the baroque interior of that church is breathtaking (talk about "horror vacui"). Beautiful views of Porto, day and night.

joseph loveI visited El Ateneo several times. A very nice bookstore and coffee shop.
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- Dag 7
- woensdag 2 november 2022 om 19:28
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Hoogte: 65 m
PortugalMMIPO - Museu da Misericórdia do Porto41°8’38” N 8°36’52” W
Into Porto
2 november 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
I took an early walk through the vineyard and after a scrumptious breakfast (my favorite was a homemade chia mango yoghurt) we headed to Porto. It was an easy drive, at least till we got into the city. Since I’ll be driving the car back to Lisbon on Saturday,, I drove it to a parking garage close to our hotel, which is on a pedestrian street.
How Porto has changed since we were last here, which was probably almost 15 years ago. Oh so very trendy. Lots of beautiful hotels in old mansions. Ours is in a 16C palace, and has a fitness center with elliptical, so what more could we ask for?
While Joe napped, I went to the fitness center and then took a walk over the top level of the bridge to Gaia’s Jardim do Morro . Gorgeous views back over the Douro to Porto’s riverside.
Joe was up and ready to head out with almost two hours of daylight left. We walked down to the river and across to Gaia on the lower level of the bridge this time. Such incredibly beautiful scenes.
Our hotel is near a million restaurants so dinner will be easy. The last picture is of the biggest penny candy shop I’ve ever seen. They weigh your bag. At 4€ per 100 grams, it’s not cheap.Meer informatie
































































































































































































































ReizigerThey look a gorgeous bunch, Laurie, and such a joy for all the cousins to be together - friendships like no others. And that baby! Cute as!