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Camino 2019, From Irún
  • Laurie Reynolds
  • Laurie Reynolds

Camino 2019, From Irún

June 2019 Weiterlesen
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  • Beginn der Reise
    3. Juni 2019
    Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Ready to go

    2. Juni 2019 in den USA ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Hard to believe, but my trusty, 19 year old Mountainsmith Ghost pack (used on all but my very first camino in 2000) is packed and ready to go. I will leave tomorrow on the 10 am flight, with connections in Chicago, Philadelphia, Madrid and then my final destination San Sebastián. The San Sebastián airport is actually in Irún, which is convenient, because Irún is my starting point.

    If all goes well, on June 4, I will meet up with Alun in Pensión Bowling, and off we will go on June 5.

    The walk this year is some new, some familiar. First the new — the Vasco Interior (hopefully, we will be able to take a couple of mountain alternatives), then the Olvidado from Aguilar de Campoo (I have walked this route, but not since new mountain alternatives have been marked), and then the Invierno from Ponferrada.

    I know I am lucky to be able to do this once again, and I hope I will be able to walk without injury. You never know. My body is pretty used to these Camino beatings, but I know things can happen, so I leave with fingers crossed!    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Made it to Irun!

    4. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Four flights, a few hours sleep on the plane, and a 20 minute walk into town from the airport. In a couple of hours, I was able to mail two boxes, get my Spanish phone card, buy some fruit, yoghurt and nuts, wash my clothes, shower, and check the route out of town for tomorrow.

    That left me just enough time (kitchens close at around 3:40 or 4:00 ) to get a bus to Hondarribia for my first ensalada mixta of this camino. Pretty, little, and very touristy Basque town.

    I had my first (but surely not my last) GPS freakout. One minute all my tracks were there, and the next minute they were gone. Not sure what happened, but turning it off and on again did the trick!

    I stopped off at the Albergue to get my credential stamped and got some info on our camino. Everyone else is walking the Norte, which also starts here, and which I walked with Dana in 2006 and alone in 2017. So it’s time for a new Camino.

    Cannot wait to sleep. Alun should arrive within an hour and I will be holding my eyes open with toothpicks by then!    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Nothing but rain

    5. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Alun arrived last night, Gatwick to Biarritz to Hendaye and then walked across the bridge to Irun. Great to have a buddy, especially one with as great a sense of humor as Alun. I slept straight through the night and woke up at 6 to the sound of heavy rain. No point avoiding it, since it was projected to rain all day, so we headed out around seven after a coffee. It was a hard walk, sometimes having to walk up stony paths with just tons of water pouring down from the top. We took two bar stops for the best tasting and most warming cafés con leche I have ever had. People are very nice but think we are crazy. I, on the other hand can’t understand why everyone doesn’t love this like I do.

    We did get a few minutes of no rain and an occasional snippet of blue sky. We ran into an Irish guy headed to San Sebastián who was a bit confused, but he was the only other walker we saw. Other than that we just kept plodding up and down, up and down (GPS and other tracks tell me we had 1100 m elevation gain, and about 33 km, not an easy first day), but even in the rain it was beautiful.

    Arriving at the Hotel Ibiltze was like entering heaven. One hot shower, clothes washed, and all is well. Tomorrow we continue into the mountains for the first of a two-day mountain alternative. And no rain in the forecast!!!    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Sunny, beautiful and HARD walk

    6. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Today we thought we had about 23 kms, turns out it was 26.5. But it wasn’t the distance, it was the ascents. About 1200 m elevation gain, seemed much tougher than yesterday.

    The weather was just glorious, sunny with occasional clouds and in the 60s. Mostly on mountain trails, all very well marked. The steady stream of unbelievable views was pretty great.

    Because of lack of accommodation, we had to detour 300 m down to a very pretty little village named Errezil. We have rooms in a nice guest house, Casa Letea,

    Tomorrow another 25 or so with more huge elevation gain, another 1000 or so. And lots of descent as well, which is awful on the knees. Another great weather forecast as well! No complaints from this very content Peregrina.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Up and down and up and down

    7. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had another day with huge (for us) elevation gain. My knees finally started to complain. So on arrival in the little town of Ormaiztegi I went first to the farmacia. Got some ibuprofen (the only thing in a pharmacy that is about 1/10th the price in the US, so how did I forget mine?) and I also got a very minimal elastic knee brace. Now sitting in our pretty basic pension with ice on it. Good time to write.

    Today’s walk was again filled with jaw-dropping views. Alun got pretty good at predicting when we would leave our ascent through the forest and emerge to a gorgeous mountain scene.

    We had our first problem with routing—we could see exactly where the camino went but hundreds of pine logs were stacked blocking the way. About 45 minutes and many nettle stings later, we finally emerged on the path again. Felt very triumphant!

    No rain in the forecast, that would make it three days in a row!!!    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Short day, pretty country, sore knee

    8. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We had a very short day, the end of the mountain alternative. Almost all of the walk was either in a beech forest or along a ridge with views of the mountain pass we will go through tomorrow. We are in a nice pension with the best meal of the trip so far. Highlight was mussels in Idiazabal cheese sauce (a Basque cheese, one of my favorites).

    My right knee is complaining on the descents. I am doing some stretches, icing it, and taking ibuprofen Fingers crossed.

    Weather got very cloudy this afternoon but were hoping for a dry day.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Saying goodbye to the mountains

    9. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Today didn’t start well. I got a call from home at 4:20– little miscalculation there. Then as I was clumsily trying to turn off the phone I inadvertently called Alun and woke him up. Then I spilled a cup of coffee made with my electric coil.
    Luckily things got better quickly.

    We left early to avoid the predicted rain. Not a drop fell. The first 15 km or so of this stage were magical. Up through beech forest, enshrouded in fog, till finally we arrived at the tunnel. Just as we arrived, the sun burned through and we could see we were surrounded by jagged peaks. Through the tunnel, into another Basque province (Álava), and then kms more of forest.

    We got to the usual end stage of Salvatierra at around one and just weren’t ready to stop. So our only choice was another 14 to Alegría (Happiness). We made it, dragging at the end but very happy to have only a 16 km stage tomorrow. There is a wonderful albergue here and we each have our own room!

    Knee is doing much better!    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Short day to Vitoria

    10. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    I slept in till 7, made a coffee with my spiffy electric coil, and by 7:45 or so we were ambling our way to Vitoria, capital of the Basque Country.

    We passed a turn-off for a 2 km detour to the region’s “jewel of Romanesque” but since it is Monday and the church is closed, I passed on the chance to see the outside.

    We did go through a little town with a church with a Romanesque and doorway. Closed too, of course.

    The city of Vitoria has a beautiful downtown medieval core (was a walled city). Since the albergue didn’t open for almost two hours, we opted for a cheap pension in the old quarter. It’s fine.

    Currently icing my knee. Nothing to do before the 5 pm Cathedral tour except eat lunch, so I will rest up for a while now.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Long day to Salinillas

    11. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Yesterday in Vitoria was great. We had an absolutely fantastic 13€ menu at El Gautxo It’s a beautiful old town, and the cathedral tour takes you down to the foundations and shows you all the foundation work and where the old city was. It was really fun.

    Today was a VERY long day, 45.6 km long to be exact. But here we are in an Albergue in Salinillas de Burandon, an old 14th century walled town. It is still technically in País Vasco, but its wine is eligible for Rioja denomination. The Albergue owner (a young guy with a Che patch on his pants) gave us a bottle of his family’s wine and we are enjoying it with our chorizo and cheese sandwiches. We carried up the sandwiches from the town 10 km back.

    My knee seems to be almost totally recuperated. We had one very steep descent today and I was not in pain!!!!

    Tomorrow about 30 km to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, and we hope to catch a couple of buses that will get us to Aguilar de Campoo, where we start the Olvidado and more mountains await!    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    End of the Vasco

    12. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We finished up the Camino Vasco with a 28 km day into Santo Domingo de la Calzada, which is on the Camino Francés. We expected to see hoards but really didn’t see many pilgrims at all. It was a nice walk with one steep ascent at the beginning. Then a killer descent followed by mostly flat.

    After a quick lunch, we got the bus to Burgos. From there we got a “blablacar” to Aguilar de Campoo. That’s a rideshare platform where people driving places match up with people going places. He picked us up at the bus station and dropped us at the door of the hotel. Very nice.

    Tomorrow we start the Camino Olvidado, the forgotten camino. I think it’s likely that we’ll meet some other peregrinos.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    First day on the Olvidado

    13. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Yesterday I was able to walk to the priests’ house, get the keys to a 12C church in exchange for my passport, and walk up to Santa Cecilia, where there is a capital depicting the Slaughter of the Innocents that is just amazing. I am so glad I made the extra push to go see it, though it was a challenge trying to figure out how to open the door.

    Today’s 29 km seemed like s piece of cake. With total elevation gain at a very manageable 400 m, we sort of sailed through. The walk had three different parts. First up to the reservoir and around. Then through scrub brush and Holmes Oaks down to the river, and the last part along the river. Cool temps, sunny skies. We felt blessed

    Tomorrow is a long day, nearly 40 km, but we’ll leave early and take it slow.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Very long day to Guardo

    14. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    But we made it. By 3:30 we were getting info about the albergue. Having left at 6:45, that makes for a long day. We knew it was about 38 kms (not quite 20 miles) so we were mentally prepared.

    The scenery, at least for the first 30 km, was quite nice. We went up to an old mine (where I got lost last time) and then down to what I would call a “rolling valley,” little hills surrounded by mountains. We went through five or six little towns, but not one with an open bar till about 1pm. That Kas de Limón really tasted great!!

    We made it into town only to learn it was a fiesta day here do nothing was open. Luckily the albergue owner will take care of us. We had a dinner of fried eggs, French fries, bacon and chorizo. And I ate almost every bit.

    Tomorrow is a 30 km mountain stage. Seems reasonable. We’ll see. Right now all I want to do is sleep!    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    In Puente Almuhey.

    15. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    In a straight shot on the road, Guardo to Puente Almuhey is about 13 km. But on the alternative that Ender has marked it’s about 36. Having done them both now I can tell you in no uncertain terms that the long route wins hands down.

    First on road to a little town with famous Roman arches, then up through a forest to a ridge with beautiful views ( note to self—when you realize you are off your GPS tracks and in a forest on a mountain, don’t try to find creative ways to re-join the tracks. Just go back down and get back on the right track immediately.)

    About halfway is the little town of Caminayo, a beautiful little hamlet whose residents used to work in the nearby mines. It’s now a town of a couple dozen. We saw a man cutting grass and asked him if there was a bar in town. One phone call later, and Lourdes was opening up the Centro Social and making us coffee. We had a really lovely stop.

    Then about 23 km down and we are now in Puente Almuhey. The Albergue has been closed due to some bureaucratic irregularities so we are in the gorgeous apartamentos turísticos Carricuende. Hard to believe that for 20 euros you get a private room, sheets and towels, washing machine, and breakfast in the bar they own next door. We have a 22 km day tomorrow, so we didn’t even bother to ask if we could have breakfast before their normal opening time of 8 am!    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    5 star day to Cistierna

    16. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    What are the odds—we got to the hotel around 2 pm and as I am checking in, the woman said to me —I remember you, you were here a few years ago and had a tick in your back. Yep, that was me.

    It was a perfect day. Coffee at 8 AM, a short 23 km to walk. Sunny, cool, lovely views of the mountains, a few ancient churches (One with a prominent carving of Santiago the moor slayer), great rest stops.

    My favorite bit of history from today is the story of the two mermaids engraved on the wall of a little church. Legend has it that two peregrinas walking to Santiago seduced some monks, And when the Abbot found out he was very angry. He turned the women into two mermaids and threw them into the river nearby. The guilty monks had to build a new church, putting the mermaid statues in the wall to remind them of their sins.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    28 km to Boñar

    17. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We left right at 7, and have met two others walking the Olvidado. That’s good news for me because Alun is going to leave in a day or two. The beginning was lovely, the morning sun on the bridge over the Esla River so nice.

    Then it became more slog-like. Not one bar or cage open the entire stage. Then I took a hard fall on a rocky descent (nothing broken or too whacked up apparently). Then two huge menacing sheep dogs blocked our way till the flock was well out of range. So it was not exactly a five star day.

    But then little by little things picked up. First, we stopped to rest in the same little covered bench where I had been five years ago and remember getting a phone call from my buddy Lee out of the blue at that very spot. Then in a little village,, a woman working i her yard insisted we sit and have a cold drink and regaled us with questions about this Camino.

    And then to top things off, just as I went down to the checkin floor of our little hostal, my buddy Ender showed up to have lunch with us. Ender is his “screen name”, better known as the guy who single handedly revived the Salvador and now is trying to do the same with the Olvidado If anyone can do it, it will be him.

    So on balance I would say that my no good very bad day turned into another A+ good time.

    The only disappointing factoid is that the weather has changed, and a mix of clouds and rain is in the forecast.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    1

    From blah to wow

    18. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We left a little after 7. Having a day with 28 km in the mountains is a lot, as we learned on the Vasco. At first we followed the valley to get us behind the foothills. Then up and up, gently at first and then steep and rocky. As we reached the top, the valley spread out behind us. And then, another couple hundred meters huffing and puffing up up up, and bam we were in the mountains. It was one of those wow, indescribable moments. Packs off, sit down and absorb the beauty. We spent a while up here.

    From there we had a very gradual descent followed by another ascent to a different set of peaks. The views were gorgeous in all directions. When we finally got down to a little village, we had about 7 more km on an untraveled road till we got to Vegacervera, where we are staying in an albergue. It’s an outdoor camp for kids, but it’s not full so there is one cabin for peregrinos and the rest for the school kids.

    Ender drove over to see us, and he took us to a great restaurant for a late lunch. Then a little trip up to a nearby river gorge. Maybe that’s where the word “gorgeous” comes from because that’s an apt description.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Short stage, many hours

    19. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    It is only about 24 kms from Vegacervera to Pola de Gordon, but even though we left around 7:15, three hours later we were only about 10 km along, sitting in a bar in Ciñera, drinking an Aquarius.

    We had just completed the most difficult descent I have ever had the pleasure of walking on any Camino. In hindsight it was really a bit dangerous, but once you get going it’s hard to justify going back up, especially when you don’t know how to find your way back to the Camino. One pole each, ginger baby steps, and we made it.

    Once at the bottom we went through a narrow gorge and emerged in a magical beech forest. Continuing on we passed a closed mine shaft and, now on a cart track, easily made it into the town of Ciñera with a very welcome bar.

    This former mining town has fallen on very hard times, and in the square there is a sad reminder of the perils of mining.

    I had an Aquarius to celebrate what I thought would be the end of my walking troubles. Little did we now that after our next steep ascent we would be in a hilly undulating meadow with no discernible path. In cases like these the GPS can only help so much. The accuracy is a band of about 9 feet, so when you don’t see a path it’s very hard to pick your way ahead in the general direction you know you have to go.

    But once again, post shower it all blends into the camino glow and I am sure that whatever food we can find in this small town will be exceptional!    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    1

    High point

    20. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was an amazing walk. I know, I’ve said that many times already. We went to 1900 m high (with only about a 700 m ascent and nothing too steep). The high point was spectacular.

    The descent was also quite gradual, and then we arrived at the Calderones, a geological wonder. It was like walking on the moon —very rocky, with lots of amazing formations. For the first couple of kms, we walked alongside a beautiful stream. Suddenly it disappeared and we were walking in the river bed. It was eerily silent. Then a few kms along, the stream burst out of the rocks and we followed it for several more kms.

    All in all a great walk. The last 6 km on asphalt didn’t even feel bad on my feet because of my cushy trail runners. I am in a Hostal in La Magdalena because the albergue doesn’t have any showers. Sorry if that makes me a pampered Peregrina.

    Alun has left on the bus to Leon. No other pilgrims here yet but I hope there will be some. Fingers crossed.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    2

    First day alone

    20. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This was a great day to get back into solitary walking, which I love. But it does take some getting used to after two weeks walking with a great camino buddy. Coffee in the room, on the road at 7.

    The whole day was virtually all off road with no roads or towns visible. Good prolonged ascent, a couple of tiny towns, lots of wide open views, and a bar for an Aquarius at km 17 four hours later. It had rained hard last night but there was very little mud.

    The rest of the walking day went quickly. It was a few kms on asphalt but minimal. Lots of beautiful riverside paths, up through oak forests, far from cars and highways.

    I am in a town with no cell service, but it has an albergue taken care of by the local association. And a little bar where two old women (85 and 83 yo) serve great meals. All is good.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Campo de Santiago

    22. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today I passed through the battlefield where St. James the Moorslayer (the non-pc alter ego of StJames the pilgrim) came back to life during the Reconquest and killed tens of thousands of Moors . Despite that awful image, it’s a beautiful spot.

    I left Vegarienza very early because my plan was to combine two short days into one and to split it up with a visit to Rosi, the woman who runs the Albergue in the middle. I wound up spending two hours there catching up. Five years ago, things were touch and go when I walked through. Now, the family is doing great. It was a really nice visit.

    But it did make for a very long 38 km day. And the big ascent came right after my visit with Rosi. I should have been rested but it was hard. By 4:30, though, after a Kas Limón break in the town with the longest name in all of Spain, I was checking into the Albergue. It’s very nice —lots of hot water and real sheets. That’s albergue luxury.

    And the restaurant across the street is making me an ensalada mixta and some fried eggs so I will be happy and full in a few minutes.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    1

    In the rain to Cobrana

    23. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    33 kms all on dirt or stone paths with lots of ups and downs but nothing too steep— should have been a dream walk, and it was for the first hour or so. No spectacular scenery but very pleasantly rural. Then the rain started and I had to whip out the rain poncho. When you walk in the rain, at first it is unpleasant because everything starts getting wet. First your pants legs, then your socks. Then you start to sweat so the inside of the poncho gets wet. Then, the worst—your shoes are soaked and you are walking in a puddle. Squish squish squish. But then it doesn’t get any worse and it becomes your new normal, so you just keep walking.

    About ten kms from my destination, I passed the first open bar of the day. The owner was very tolerant of my drowned rat condition and very eager to talk about this new camino. One good strong cafe con leche and a few churros later, the rain stopped and out I went. But of course it soon started raining again —which really didn’t matter since I was still pretty wet.

    The little casa rural in Cobrana gives pilgrim prices. And the woman in the bar brought up a bowl of paella and some hard boiled eggs with tuna and red peppers — I doubt I’ll be able to finish it even though it will be my supper too!    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Into Ponferrada

    24. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    This walk turned out to be a lot longer than I thought —another 30 km somehow. It must have been the tracks I followed, since I was taking a “cheating walk” rather than following the official Camino Olvidado to the end.

    The first cheating was when the arrows pointed me up to a sanctuary high above the reservoir. Since I was walking in pea soup and since the church is relatively modern, (why walk an extra km or two to see a modern church?!) I just shaved a km or two of ascent off the day. The rest of the day was foggy and humid but good walking weather. No particularly stunning scenery —over and around a dam/reservoir and through a couple of pine forests.

    At one point my GPS was taking me through some really overgrown mess and I saw a track going up and heard voices up there. So I thought that was the better option. Sure enough there was a group of cyclists with diabetes doing a Spain-Germany cycle. They pointed me in the right direction and within a few hours I was in Ponferrada.

    Soon after I arrived, it started to rain —lucky me to have missed it all on the walk. Doing a little legal work this afternoon, and I’ll then meet up with some others who are going to walk the Camino Invierno too.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Back to Ponferrada

    25. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I had a really tough but almost always enjoyable walk today up to Peñalba De Santiago, one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. It’s tucked way up in the mountains and has been inhabited since the tenth century when the hermit saint Genadio set up some caves for hermits. The walk was very remote and I even walked in some of the channels made by the Romans to get water over to the hills with gold nearby. I got there just in time for a very interesting visit to the 10th century church. After walking around, I pondered my situation.

    My plans were to stay in Peñalba tonight and then take a more remote path tomorrow to connect to the Camino Invierno.

    But three things made me change my mind. First I had had no cell service almost the whole way and tomorrow would be no better. Second, I had inexplicably forgotten to download tracks for tomorrow on my GPS. And third, even though I was able to get offline tracks onto my phone, the battery would have died about half way through.

    Now I love a challenge as much as the next guy, but this seemed stupid. So a very nice couple from Madrid drove me back to Ponferrada. And I will start the Invierno tomorrow from the proper place.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    1

    To Las Medulas

    26. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Great day, not too hot (yet), and lots of really nice paths, through vineyards, fruit orchards, or forests.

    It’s a stiff ascent to the little town of Villavieja, and the other two times I have walked it, there were great views of the castle of Cornatel, perched on a cliff and looking impregnable. But today it was covered in fog.

    Villavieja is the little town where the serfs who worked in the castle lived. Today it’s a pretty little hamlet with an albergue and some casas rurales. From there to the (closed) castle is a short ascent.

    When I got to the town of Borrenes, I decided to take an alternative path up to Las Médulas. My camino pal Amancio had recommended it, and it was a good recommendation. A bit harder, more ascent, but it takes you straight to the iconic overlook and then down to town. Now I don’t have to spend my post-lunch hours walking up there!

    These weird rick formations, btw, are what’s left after the Romans built a complicated channel system and pumped water through to blow up the mountain and disgorge the gold.

    Hands down my favorite tree is the chestnut, and this area is chock full of them. Life keeps springing out of dead trunks, it seems like a metaphor.    Weiterlesen

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    The heat is coming

    27. Juni 2019 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I had either 28 or 36 kms today with forecasts for low 90s (high 90s tomorrow😲). So I left right at sunrise, 6:30, and within a few hours, I had left León y Castilla and entered Galicia. A huge dog that barked wildly at me the last time I passed has mellowed a lot, surely a sign that there are lots more pilgrims passing.

    I met up with various groups of morning walkers—the path was nice soft dirt with views of the beautiful Sil River (except for the parts marred by one industrial installation or another).

    About 10 km in, I noticed a small tear in the fabric covering of one of my shoes. That sealed the deal-I would stop at km 28 (where there was a shoe repair) rather that 36 (where there wasn’t). This complicates my life, since that means that I am pretty much stuck with an extremely short day tomorrow, which would not be my first choice. Oh well.

    Arriving in O Barco, I went straight to the shoe repair store. 10 minutes later and 2€ poorer, I left with my shoes stitched and the zipper on my fanny pack repaired. I am staying in a “recently renovated” Pension, which has fresh paint on the walls but a bathroom that looks like it pre-dates the Reconquest.    Weiterlesen

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