• Carolyn Koontz
september 2022

Japan 2022

Japan 2022 with Overseas Adventure Travel. Our itinerary will take us to Tokyo, Hakone, Kanazawa, Kyoto, and Hiroshima with many magical scenic sites to experience. I’m feeling joy and gratitude. Læs mere
  • Start på rejsen
    2. september 2022

    And So It Begins

    2. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ 🌙 73 °F

    DAY 1
    STL- LA ~ 2,560 Miles

    For those familiar with this traveling trio you may not be too surprised to know that two of the trio were sound asleep prior to the plane pulling away from the gate at Lambert. Yes, I do have pictorial evidence but am choosing discretion in this moment and not posting it, although copies are available for purchase.

    For me this quiet time brings an opportunity to reflect and anticipate. This is my first flight since returning home from our abbreviated World Cruise. Have days or decades passed since the world stopped in its tracks? Previously unthought of words and habits are now seemingly part of our daily lives or are forever stamped in our memories: PPE, masking, Dr. Fauci, social distancing, quarantine, vaccinations, boosters, home testing, supply change shortages, science deniers, Zoom, etc. Thankfully my thoughts flit to the anticipation of an exciting trip!

    Japan only recently opened their borders to foreign tourists and now requires a Visa and only allows travel with a government approved tour operator. A negative PCR test is mandatory for entry as is being fully vaccinated and boosted. Masks are not optional in Japan, they are required. As tourists we are required to have an app on our phones for contact tracing and approval of our travel documents and Covid records prior to arrival.

    Restrictions yes, hoops yes. But Japan has opened their borders and I’m going to savor every moment. I remain grateful and blessed.
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  • God’s Artistry

    3. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    From somewhere over the Pacific Ocean

    I think this pictures captures an amazing combination of blues that only God could paint.

  • Safe Arrival in Toyko

    4. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    DAY 2-3 ~ 11,400 Miles
    Travel Day LA-Tokyo

    I managed to learn three valuable lessons re Japanese norms even before landing. First, if one must speak in public places, one must use hushed tones as to not disturb those within earshot. Second, no cellphone calls in public. And third, it is rude to leave any food on your plate. The first two lessons I learned prior to takeoff and the third lesson I learned after a wonderful meal when 3 separate flight attendants asked me if the food did not meet my tastes. I’m certain there are many more lessons to learn in the coming days.

    Apparently Covid did not result in a worker shortages in Tokyo because as we walked the ~ 1.2 miles from our arrival gate at Haneda to Covid Procedural Check, Immigration, and Customs we were directed by no less than 100 staff holding arrow signage and checking for the “Blue” screen on the MySOS app…thankfully we kept our talking to hushed tones.

    Our anticipated 90-120 minute drive to our hotel was only about 20 minutes along pothole free roads! Check in at Hotel Vista Tokyo Tsukiji was quick and easy.

    Stay tuned for the room review as we adjust to our tiny rooms.
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  • Tsukiji District of Chūō, Tokyo

    5. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Day 4

    Today was a sunny 85 degrees with 85% humidity, Tokyo is proving to be a 3 shower a day kind of place.

    Breakfast was provided at the hotel this morning and was a strange experience, more on that later. Upon entering the cafe we were required to take our temperatures (which we will need to report to our trip leader each morning) and “glove up” with those plastic gloves that are too big for everyone just to use the tongs for the buffet.

    Since we don’t officially meet up with our travel group until Tuesday morning we decided to spend the day exploring the area around our hotel and we made our way to Hama-rikyu Gardens. The crews here use a variety of extension ladders, saws, bracing, and techniques to maintain the bonsais. They were amazing.

    But, the highlight of my day was finding a hole in the wall basement restaurant that served amazing food with a former US College student as our waitress. Cultural lesson learned: being required to remove one’s shoes at the door does not mean leaving them there.
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  • Tales of the Extreme

    6. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Day 5

    We joined up with our travel group this morning and traveled north from our hotel by motor coach…still looking for my first pothole! We were able to spend the morning with 2 former Sumo Wrestlers. I’ve seen the sport on TV but did not fully appreciate the level of training and commitment these men go through. We were treated to a brief history, a fantastic demonstration, Q&A session, and traditional Sumo lunch, Chanko and sesame rice (obviously smaller portions).

    Afterwards we traveled to Meiji Shinto Shrine in the center of a 170+ acre manmade forest in Tokyo.

    After the peacefulness of the shrine we headed to Shibuya Crossing via the subway. For 3 days we had wondered out loud where all of the 14 million residents of Tokyo were because the sidewalks weren’t crowded. We found most of them yesterday, they were underground in the subway system. I would have never found my way to open air without following our guide. I wouldn’t have even been able to leave a crumb trail to follow because a maintenance worker would have swept it up almost immediately.

    Shibuya Crossing is pretty much exactly how it is depicted in the movies, a mass of humanity crossing a colossal intersection from multiple directions. We watched the chaos from an elevated position then headed to the street to cross it ourselves. Been there done that, don’t need to do it again!
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  • Caution Big Sound

    7. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Day 6

    Back on the subway this morning along with the other 10 million daily riders we headed to a Taiko Studio. Taiko is a traditional Japanese drum. The performance studio was down a steep dark staircase and we removed our shoes to enter. The studio is heavily soundproofed and we were closed in with thick sound deadening double doors. Really the only thing missing were the straight jackets. Our guide warned us of the upcoming loud drums with “ Caution, Big Sound”.

    The drum master performed, gave us a history of Taiko, did a Q&A session, and finally handed out our drumsticks. Once equipped with drumsticks with the diameter of broom handles we formed a semi-circle and picked our drum. By the end of our lesson and jam session we were performing well enough for the next Olympic Opening Ceremony.

    With our ears still ringing we walked a short 15 minutes to Asakusa Temple, the oldest temple in Tokyo. After a quick walk around we cabbed it back to the hotel and met back up with the group for a beautiful welcome dinner.

    Note: The golden colored building shown is the Asahi Brewery HQ and is designed to mimic a mug of beer with foam on the top. The “Golden Pooh” is also part of their complex and is supposed to be a flame but the locals all call it The Golden Pooh.
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  • Mt. Fuji is a Shy Mountain

    8. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Day 7 ~ 11,500 Miles

    We were told by our travel guide during our orientation meeting that seeing Mt. Fuji is unlikely because she is shy and typically shrouded in clouds. So I consider us fortunate to have had a glimpse of her today!

    Now to backtrack a bit. We left Tokyo this morning and travelled by coach to Hakone. We took a quick break en route at a “Station of the Road” which turned out to be an amazing community run market, restaurant, and rest stop. Our next stop was at an Ashigara Village to visit the Seto Community House where we were greeted by a group of local housewives. These women lovingly provided a tour of this historic house that was once owned by a Samauri family and then proceeded to give us a traditional Japanese cooking lesson for miso soup and rolled sushi. Not to brag, but I received an A+ for my rolled sushi.

    Final stop for the day, Hakone at the Recove Hakone Hotel in the foothills of Mt. Fuji. The Recove is tired and dated with old fashioned door locks, buckwheat pillows hard enough to injure an unlikely intruder, and beds that feel like plywood with a sheet. On a positive note I certainly won’t run out of shampoo, conditioner, and soap because there is a 30 ounce bottle of each conveniently located on the vanity across from the shower.

    Last thought for the day: When traveling anywhere outside the borders of our beautiful country being unexpectedly asked about my passport undoubtedly will send a wave of panic through my body. My passport is in all alone in Tokyo but thankfully should catch up to me by the time we arrive in Kanazawa!
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  • Goodbye Hakone

    9. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Day 8 ~ 11,600 miles

    We departed early for Lake Ashi along narrow switchback roads cut into the mountainside and through the dense forest. Unfortunately Mt. Fuji lived up to her reputation of being shy as she was completely hidden under a blanket of clouds. After cruising across Lake Ashi we arrived in Motohakone and then walked along a stretch of the Old Tökaidö Road Ancient Cedar Avenue among cedar trees planted in 1618.

    Next stop Hamamatsuya to an incredible wood shop where the 7th generation of this family is carrying on the tradition of Hakone Parquetry. Many of the pieces take months to produce and are more complex and intricate then anything I’m seen.

    Our full day continued by visiting 2 Geishas. I had been under the mistaken impression that Geisha are sex workers. While that may have been true in ancient Japan it is definitely not currently the case. I have a new found respect for the Geisha. These Geisha we were privileged to meet have been working Geishas for 35 years. They are graceful and elegant and are dedicated to their craft and train daily on over 20 traditional Japanese dances.

    One last stop before heading to our hotel was at the Hakone Botanical Garden of the Wetlands. Honestly this was a waste of time and the “200 meter walk” to our hotel was actually 2+ kilometers which after a long day was an unexpected treat.
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  • Faster Than a Speeding…

    10. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Day 9 ~ 12,120 Miles

    Shinkansen = Bullet Train.

    It was a bad news/good news morning!

    The bad news: As we waited for our coach to arrive we received news that it had broken down.

    The good news: Our trip leader was somehow prepared for something of this nature and marched our group single file down the roadside with luggage in tow to the public bus stop. We packed in like sardines and made the hour long bus ride to the train station with luggage on our laps with time to spare.

    I barely saw the first Shinkansen whiz past the platform. The sleek white and blue train was already a dot on the horizon by the time I managed to switch my camera to video and find the record button (but I did get a nice video of the platform and empty tracks).

    Our Shinkansen arrived at the exact minute it was scheduled and departed seconds later, even before everyone had luggage stowed and got seated…there are schedules to maintain!

    The ride was remarkable.

    We changed trains halfway through to an Express Train. The schedule was still precise but the second half took 3x the time.

    Our hotel in Kanazawa has more western style beds and I just ordered a non-buckwheat pillow…sleep is calling my name.

    Our hotel once again has onsen (hot springs baths) but this hotel provides directions too.
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  • Japan Revealed Her Beauty Today.

    11. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Day 10 ~ 12,140 Miles

    Japan revealed her beauty today!

    CAUTION: Long Post to Follow.

    We spent the first part of the morning at Kenrokuen Garden which opened to the public in 1875. The grounds are simply stunning and if your mind’s eye pictures a classic Japanese Botanical garden then you’ve pictured Kenrokuen, with its ancient bonsai, water features, moss covered boulders, and a tremendous sense of serenity.

    We traveled from serenity to chaos in the blink of an eye and entered Omicho Market where we competed in a challenge of finding something we had never seen before for 500 yen or less, inquire about it in Japanese, purchase it, then present it to our group at lunch. Honestly I had never seen most of the things, with the exception of the fruit. We did not win the challenge although I think our embellished story was the best.

    After a wonderful lunch at a “French” restaurant (read Italian) we made our way to the Higashi Chaya District, which is historically a geisha area, for a stroll through the narrow stone paved streets lined with tea houses, small shops, and geisha houses. Each bamboo sliding door, although not necessarily welcoming, called me to investigate beyond the slats to glimpse at what lay beyond.

    Next stop: the headquarters of Hakuichi, a leader in the art of gold leaf production. After touring the facility, receiving a history lesson on the process, and creating our own gold leaf art piece, Jay accepted the challenge and had a gold leaf covered ice cream cone. Well done!

    We finished our Kanazawa tour with a stop in the Samurai District. Although not on our itinerary, this area is a must see. This District is near the Kanazawa Castle, where Samurai and their families resided and the Samurai served as guards for the castle. The District has a historic atmosphere with restored Samurai homes which are now private residences, narrow cobblestone roads, and canals and stone bridges that let your imagination wander to times long past. We had the opportunity to visit a remarkable fully restored Samurai house.

    We ended our evening with a fun group happy hour and then dispersed for ice candy aka ice cream bars.

    Kanazawa did not disappoint today (except for the heat and tremendous humidity).
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  • Gokayama Means 5 Mountains

    12. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Day 11 ~ 12,250 Miles

    Gokayama roughly translates to 5 mountains, is made up of 40 small villages tucked into valleys and crevasses of the area mountains, and can become totally isolated in winter under a heavy blanket of snow.

    We visited the Village of Ainokura and while it is only an hour drive from Kanazawa it is a world away. Ainokura village is set deep in the valley and is comprised of around 20 thatched roof homes. No outside vehicles allowed and I think this is the only place in Japan with a no smoking policy. The structures are constructed of Japanese oak without the use of nails and topped with 20” thick thatched roofs.

    We followed up with a stops at Higashinake, Kaminasi, and Nishiakaomachi. We made Washi paper, sampled freshly made Mochi, and were treated to an organic lunch. We even learned to play the Sasara musical instrument.
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  • One Time One Meeting

    13. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Day 12 ~ 12,670 Miles

    Today was move day. But first we had an opportunity to spend a few hours with a local family in their home. We were met by a traditional older Japanese couple, Masa and Noriko (read: wife is 3 steps behind husband unless serving husband). Masa gave us a tour of their home, showed us his prized collections and possessions, then Noriko served us tea and Mizu Yokan. He then showed us his calligraphy skills by painting each of us a memorial piece that included the phrase “One Time One Meeting” and we finished up with a stop at their liquor store and sampled some of their family branded Saki.

    We boarded an afternoon train in Kanazawa and headed south east to Kyoto passing over and through more mountains and alongside beautiful Lake Biwa. Kyoto is surrounded by mountains which is said to produce very cold winters and extremely hot summers. Apparently summer lasts well into September because we felt the heat before we were fully out of the station.

    We are in a beautiful newer hotel. Shoes off at the front entrance as the staff cleaned and disinfected the wheels on our luggage then we could place our shoes in a keyed locker or carry them in a plastic bag to our room. No shoes anywhere in the hotel but there are two smoking areas available. The hotel is calm and serene with tatami and bamboo flooring, muted tones, soft lighting, beautifully textured walls and simple artwork but if the beds were any lower we’d be sleeping on the floor.
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  • That’s A Lot of Gold

    14. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Day 13 ~12,495 Miles

    Just after breakfast we jumped onto a purple streetcar for a trip to Arashiyama Bamboo Grove and the Tenryu-ji Temple adjacent to the Grove. By arriving early we had the wide ashen colored rocky path mostly to ourselves. The varied colors of the bamboo stalks are striking against their bright green leaves and patches of blue sky.

    The meditation area of the temple honestly did instill a sense of quiet and calm.

    Our final stop of the day was at The Golden Pavilion or Kinkakuji Temple. The exterior and interior are covered in gold leaf…and that’s a lot of gold. The entrance ticket is considered good luck as is called “the golden ticket”.
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  • Oh Deer

    15. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Day 14 ~ 12,590 Miles

    We made our way to Nara, which was the capital of Japan before Kyoto and Tokyo. But we came to see the Todaiji Temple’s Daibutsu. The temple is one of the world’s largest wooden structures and is an impressive home to 52 foot tall bronze Buddha affectionately called “Big Buddha“.

    I felt drawn to light 3 candles today after learning the meaning of the position of the hands of Big Buddha.

    Left hand = Don’t worry
    Right hand = I will take care of you.

    So today I lit one candle for my parents, one candle for my brother Dennis, and one candle for my loved ones and friends that may be struggling or searching for comfort or peace.

    The park surrounding Todaiji is full of adorable, tame, free-roaming deer, which were traditionally regarded as messengers of a Shinto god.

    I’m unable to come up with an appropriate segue from temple to tea so let me get directly to the point. I enjoy a good glass of iced tea, especially in hot weather. But Japanese tea is NOT anything close to what I grew up drinking. We stopped at the headquarters of a famous Japanese tea producer and made matcha powder using a mill stone to grind the tea leaves, then prepared a cup of hot tea in the traditional Japanese manner. Personally I think matcha tastes like grass I ate as a child. Give me a tall glass of ice and allow me to listen to it crackle as that strong, sweet, freshly brewed Lipton black tea is poured over the ice. Now that’s tea.
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  • Judged To Be “Most Happy”

    16. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Day 15 ~ 12,625 Miles.

    This morning we visited Senkoji Temple to learn about and practice Zen meditation with a monk. After a 2 mile walk our choice to reaching the temple was walking up a steep uneven rocky path or riding up. Fortunately many in our group are “competitive” and would never dream of riding up. This traveling trio rode up. So we packed into a little van driven by an 81 year old monk along with a couple others from our group and sped up the narrow winding path being navigated carefully on foot by our fellow travelers. We almost knocked a few off the mountain as we passed but all arrived safely.

    We spent an hour with another monk and did a short meditation before having a sado tea ceremony. I took advantage of bamboo walking sticks and walked down the mountainside. We then were treated to a bamboo pole steered Yakatobune boat ride on the Oigawa River back to our starting point.

    After traveling back to Kyoto and getting another sushi lesson/lunch we stopped at a floral arrangement school for a lesson on modern Japanese floral arranging, Ikebana. I need to brag a bit because our arrangement was judged by the Ikebana master to the most happy and best
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  • Wait. What? When?

    17. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Day 16 ~ 12,640 Miles

    We spent a good part of the morning walking the grounds of the Imperial Palace in Kyoto. I’m sure it was once filled with life and excitement but that ended long ago when the capital moved to Tokyo. This massive structure on 30 acres in the heart of Kyoto now sits empty but for the tourists and staff. I was shocked to see the neglect of the outer grounds. The inner gardens are still beautifully maintained. Touring the palace interior is not permitted.

    The trip is winding down for part of our group so we had a farewell dinner tonight. The rest of us are headed to Hiroshima early tomorrow morning on the Shinkansen.

    It looks as if we may meet Typhoon Nanmadol (or storm 14 as the Japanese call it) in Hiroshima. Our train will likely be the last one until after the storm due to anticipated high winds. I have to believe l’m not the only one thinking that we are headed in the wrong direction. No news yet re any itinerary changes. Personally I’m hoping for a hotel bar and it’s a good thing I packed my umbrella and windbreaker. 😂
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  • Peace

    18. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    Part Two
    Day 17 ~ 12,970 Miles

    I had to step away from the group today as I tried to choke back the tears while standing in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. I can’t find the appropriate words to adequately share the day and can only share a few pictures.

    The accompanying video is from inside the Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall For The Atomic Bomb Victims. I descended alone, counterclockwise, down a sloped ramp which represented going back in time and I arrived in a massive chamber on which the walls were tiled with approximately 140,000 mosaic tiles (number of bombing victims) in a panoramic depiction of the bombing site. The center of the chamber is anchored by a fountain which signifies the bombing victim’s thirst and if you look carefully at the top of the fountain you will see a clock face stopped at 8:15, the time that the bomb detonated.

    I don’t fully understand how or why I came to be alone for so long in this place and in this moment accompanied only by the sound of the flowing water.
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  • Bullet Ride to the Storm

    18. september 2022, Japan ⋅ 🌧 84 °F

    Part One (please see Part Two Below)
    Day 17

    We boarded the Shinkansen to Hiroshima this morning for an easy 2 hour trip. Stops at stations for unboarding and boarding occur in under 2 minutes, so be prepared or you will be left on the platform or on the train. If train travel in the US were as comfortable, fast, precise, and easy as in Japan I would rarely fly within the US. The airline industry must be lobbying hard against high speed railways.

    The trains in this part of the country did shut down after our trip due to anticipated high winds from Typhoon Nanmadol.

    As of this evening our itinerary for tomorrow has been canceled and we will hunker down in the hotel. The wind and rain was just starting on our way back from dinner and we are expecting winds up to 68 mph tonight. Fortunately, the forecast states that Hiroshima will avoid a direct hit.

    After arriving in Hiroshima we dropped our luggage at the hotel and headed for the Peace Memorial Park, Museum, and a presentation from a survivor of the bombing. I have seen several documentaries on Hiroshima and hearing her story in person was even more of an emotional experience.
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  • Ridin’ The Storm Out

    19. september 2022, Japan ⋅ 🌧 81 °F

    Day 18

    Today was literally a “wash out” as we waited for the Typhoon to pass. Most site seeing opportunities were closed, the trains and streetcars were shut down, and it’s a National Holiday (Respect for Elderly Day) which further restricted what was open.

    Our trip leader did arrange a last minute visit from a Sake Sommelier which allowed us to learn a bit of Sake history and enjoy a tasting. Our Sommelier is a second generation atomic bomb survivor and she shared the stories of both of her parents. Many survivors experienced discrimination over their lifetimes because others thought of them as poisonous, employers would not hire survivors because they feared they would become sick, and finding a spouse was difficult because it was believed that they could not have normal children.

    Even now there are an estimated 120,000 survivors and many still will not share their stories even with their children for fear of discrimination or survivors guilt.

    With most everything shut down we went on a stroll looking for anything that may be open for dinner and finally stumbled across The Shack Bar & Grill hidden on the 5th floor of an obscure building. What a gem of a hole in the wall. A bar, restaurant, karaoke joint run by an Indian ex-pat with Japanese locals and occasional lost tourists as patrons. Perfect ending to the day!
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  • Miyajima

    20. september 2022, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Day 19 ~ 13,010 Miles

    Today was our last full day in Japan and this morning we caught the local train for a one hour trip to the Seto Inland Sea and then boarded the ferry to Miyajima. As we approached the island I noticed that the Typhoon debris heavily littered the beach which served as a reminder of our good fortune.

    This small island is home to Japan’s most beautiful and recognizable torri gate, Itsukushima Floating Torri Gate. It is a UNESCO designated site and sadly is currently completely covered for maintenance!

    We visited the Itsukushima Shrine, albeit at low-tide, which was beautiful but during high-tide it looks as if it is floating on the sea.

    We chose to visit the massive hall known as the Hokoku Shrine which was wondrously constructed in 1587. This shrine sits next to an equally amazing 5-storied pagoda erected in 1407.

    We were stalked by overly friendly free roaming deer and I battled a small buck for a bag I was carrying…I won the battle. The buck did manage to pickpocket a brochure from Jay’s pocket and in a goat like manner enjoyed his stolen snack.

    Our evening ended with a beautiful farewell dinner with our fellow travelers. Tomorrow we begin our journey home.
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  • Goodbye Japan

    22. september 2022, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Day 20 & 21 ~ 25,125 Miles

    I have always loved the feeling of returning home, whether at the end of the day or at the end of a trip. I imagine that “Home Sweet Home” was first uttered after a long travel day. We managed to travel for 25 hours, including layovers, over 3 flights through 4 airports before the calendar changed the date. The international date line is confusing to an exhausted mind.

    I was hoping for one last view of the expanse of Tokyo during our departure but Tokyo was blanketed by heavy clouds from the remnants of Typhoon 14. While I began to pull the window shutter closed I looked back one more time as we broke through the clouds and was treated to a view of the top of Mt. Fuji.

    Mt. Fuji is a shy mountain but she said Goodbye.
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    Slut på rejsen
    21. september 2022