Indonesia / Malaysia

april - juni 2024
Timbo and I's bike packing 3 month mission through Indonesia / Malaysia. Meer informatie
Momenteel aan het reizen
  • 12Footprints
  • 1landen
  • 50dagen
  • 131foto’s
  • 0video’s
  • 758kilometer
  • Dag 35

    Another day on the road

    8 mei, Indonesië ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Coming down the hill from Bajawa to Borong, a vehicle slowed to a stop while I'd been gathering myself on the side of the road for a few minutes.

    From the vehicle, three fellas approached me asking if they could take some photos with me. I agreed (this being nothing new to me) where we took a dozen photos between us.

    It was in our conversation following that I'd learnt the motivation for their approach. One of them mentioned it was his dream to take a photo with a European! This struck me as quite a shock, as I'd never thought the satisfaction of a selfie would run so deep.

    A conclusion that I'd come to earlier in the trip was that the interest of Indonesians to have photographs with a 'bule' (often me!) is simply for their own entertainment. Us Europeans (considering I am Pakeha at home) tend to represent wealth much larger than their own.

    For a relative perspective, the local minimum wage is often a monthly salary somewhere above a few million rupees, which would equal a few hundred dollars from home. Our symbolism of wealth associates as a symbol of status which they are then able to put on their social media or send to their friends and family.

    We'd continue to exchange a few more words. In return, they taught me a few more words of Bahasa which I'd been meaning to learn. It's funny the things which one might encounter on the road.
    Meer informatie

  • Dag 22

    Bima fashion

    25 april, Indonesië ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    At my point of the trip, I am nowhere near editing photos from the festival but I thought I would put up what I have. Here is a photo shoot I'd performed for a friend of a friend.

    The dress worn is traditional Rimpu displayed for the model competition during the cultural festival. From my experience, I thought it was wonderful to showcase both beauty and cultural heritage at a festival like this.

    It is my hope that traditional culture will continue to be celebrated in Bima region. Rimpu designs are found vibrantly throughout the city. I have been grateful to have supported such an event.
    Meer informatie

  • Dag 21

    Mr Buana

    24 april, Indonesië ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    It was a small back alley coffee shop, a few blocks off the main road where I met Mr Buana. He had been waiting for me for at least the past half hour while I was grabbing some lunch downtown. He was a short man, who from my initial accounts was a respected man of his area, welcomed me at the gate to usher me inside for some coffee.

    I had been introduced to Mr Buana through a contact of mine, Mr Is, whose name I have no chance of remembering or to even pronounce correctly. I had met Mr Is in front of Bima's Museum - the house had been the palace of the first Indonesian Prime Minister. Mr Is was a local police officer (locally known as 'polisi') who approached us in a kind and regarded manner as we'd been inquiring with locals for the opportunity of hiring scooters. After he's resolved that there would be no such way in Bima, Mr. Is, along with the crowd that had gathered around us, requested to take photos with us which agreed for some following time.

    It was only moments before that Tim and I had stepped back into the grounds of the Museum. We had come with the intent to meet more of the local kids following the missed opportunity from the day before. On arriving, we could see roughly one-hundred kids neatly seated and lined on the Museum steps, awaiting for their group photos to be taken.

    As we approached, some kids began to squeal. Smiles and eyes turned to us in what was a spectacle for them seeing us for their first time. It became something of fanfare. We requested to join in their photos, after which we spent the next 20 minutes shaking hands, taking many selfies and answering their questions (translated from the local Bima dialect) as best we could manage.

    This became something of a correction of my judgement from the day before - our presence wasn't minor fanfare, but something of a major affair. Kids, but also teachers in charge of them, were something in awe of us being there. Standing beside them, teachers would be just as embarrassed as the kids to have their photos taken with us. Tim and I would have shaken hands with at least seventy of the kids each. What I found special about this was that for these kids, they were forthcoming enough to do so. And those that had their reservations, I could pick out so I could go over to have them shake my hand.

    Reading this might make no sense to you at all. Tim and I are just tourists, at most normal people. There is nothing so extraordinary about us. We just came to learn some things and see other things. But what this showed, with the treatment of us that was attunded of highly acclaimed celebrities; was that for these kids - these people - we had taken time out of our lives to visit them, in their local area of cultural appreciation to see them, to meet them, and to learn and appreciate their culture.

    It was Mr Is, who then informed us that there was a cultural Rimpu Festival to be held over the following days in Bima. The festival of national significance, is to celebrate the clothing and traditions of Rimpu - customary dress worn local to Bima's region, known to be breathable in hot environments, but warm in cold environments due to the thickness of the material. As brought about by wider Indonesian-Muslim culture, this was later to be replaced with the more common Hijabs.

    I'd expressed interest to Mr. Is, we would like to stay for the event, but we would have trouble with the ferry's schedule as we were looking to leave on a ferry which wouldn't arrive for the next week following the festival. Mr. Is, assured me that this would be no issue as he had his contact with Mr Buana, who could get us to Labuan-Bajo through his connections. After exchanging our contacts, I had flicked Mr Buana a message, who replied shortly requesting we should meet over coffee.

    Mr Buana, as it turned out, was the head honcho for the Ministry of tourism for Bima, who I found out had a background in adventuring, of which he trekked the local volcanoes, SCUBA diving around the country and solo biking packing missions across multiple other countries. Our conversation, as it seemed to me, reminded him of his times. It was over coffee I would see the glint in his eyes anytime we're able to share expressed philosophies of how such times should be lived.

    Mr Buana also had the important task of organising the Rimpu Festival - the cultural event which would last over the following three days. I told him my plans, expressing that Tim and I had decided to stay. He was amused and promised we would be well positioned during the festival for the days we were present. We talked some more, and before long he'd offered to escort me back to my hotel, which provided a grand tour of Bima's central township.

    Along the way we dropped in at the festival venue, to which I'd been completely baffled sitting on the back of his scooter. There I was, riding with arguably the most influential man in the area who had been ushering me into the festival of which he was responsible for. Around us, hundreds of women were practising their dance performances ahead of the ceremony. I was privileged to take as many photos as I could from any angle from around the stage. After some five minutes, he dropped me off where had told me, if there was anything that I would need, I should go through him as an official source.

    So here's my life update: Tim and I will be attending the Bima's Cultural Rimpu Festival over the next three days. The cultural event is projected to attract around forty thousand people from around the country. There has been nothing more that Tim and I have wanted more than a beer to digest our situation. Instead, we continue to sip our caffe-lattes while we reside in the Muslim state of Simbawa. Enjoy some photos of the locals I had met wandering the city. These people are truly incredible!

    Tim and I are very excited for these days ahead.
    Meer informatie

  • Dag 16

    Down the hill - Sembalun

    19 april, Indonesië ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    The first real downhill of the trip! Indonesia as a country exists upon the 'Ring of Fire' - the tectonic boarder of the most volcanic section of the world. Most of our riding before Sembalun has been coastal so it was great to run some 1200m of downhill to enjoy the views of this spectacular island.

    The pictures generally speak for themselves. We'd taken some back roads to gain a better view of what this place was like. The mountainous townships flowing off the back of Sembalun prosper as much the same as Sembalun itself. Many rice fields take much of the spring and rain water to grow their crop from levelled terraces layered down the valley. People here were incredibly friendly, where we'd often stopped with due to my failing sense of direction.

    I'd noticed an effect on the land where rice fields had made their migration moving up the hill. Lower regions suffered from a lack of water, where closer to the bottom, rice fields had resorted to agricultural farming instead. I'll also make a point that some of the best mosques we had seen from this trip came from these regions, all presented in their bright vibrant colours.

    Once arriving at the port passing Lombok, Lombok, Tim and I made our way onto the ferry which brought us to the island of Sumbawa. It was a fantastic evening on the bike which we'd polished off with 25km night riding to our homestay in the Alas to spend the night.
    Meer informatie

  • Dag 16

    Up the hill - Sembalun

    19 april, Indonesië ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    With a late start, Tim and I made out of bed all the way to the bar to order ourselves a fresh round of pancakes and honey. The bike packing itself didn't start till much later, of which we were to make our way out the valley towards the head of the pass, taking us towards the port township of Lombok, Lombok.

    Sembalun is an incredibly beautiful area, something aspiring towards that of the Himalayas. The valley, filled extensively with rice fields is formed in something of an outer crater to the local Rinjani Volcano. The mountainous community seems to be well off, through a reliance on the crater springs which provide continued sources of water as well as local tourism for Mt Rinjani guided walks.

    My photos here will not do the valley justice. It was hard riding up the valley with 450m of climbing towards the peak of the day. I had decided to ride with my camera off my body for most of the ride and had forgotten to take photos once we'd made the top of the valley.

    Well worth the torment! Sembalun has been a real highlight of the trip.
    Meer informatie

  • Dag 15

    The road to Sembalun

    18 april, Indonesië ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The north costal road following the top of Lombok Island. Tim's suggestion involved taking the road up to Sembleong which involved 1200m of elevation gain which we tackled over two days. This turned out to the be right choice for the trip, but not without it's consequences.

    In the late part of the day, we appeal to a local man who was able to get a lift to the beginning of the Sembalun which we were very grateful for. We paid the driver $250K and tipped the local $50K in what was the late part of the evening when we arrived. This skipped about 350m of elevation for us. A great, but hard day on the bike!
    Meer informatie

  • Dag 15

    People

    18 april, Indonesië ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    People are just beautiful here! Meet Ouli and Abdull from Malaka, Lombok. Ouli has been our generous host for our night's stay and Abdull makes the best fried banana pancakes on the island 🏝️

  • Dag 11

    Compass Divers - Gili Trawangan

    14 april, Indonesië ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    In Gili Trawangan, Tim and I spent three days with the team from Compass Divers completing our SSI Open Water Certification. We had a blast, which such a good crew and an awesome time in the water!

    On the first day before our dive, I'd mentioned off-hand to Tim how cool it would be if we were to see some turtles during some point of the course. An hour later, we had come back from our first dive which encountered five turtles.

    I considered to be an incredibly special experience. For me, it's been a turning point of the trip. I had been mindful of the fact I'd intended the trip to be bike packing orientated where we had steered off in order of exploring places both Tim and I would be happy for. I got much more out of the diving than I expected (much more than five turtles) which has kept me mindful towards smelling the roses, if you will.

    A little bit on the history of Gili Trawangan marine life: the Gili Islands have a history of dynamite fishing in the area, which too it's effect has destroyed much of the pristine coral from the region. The Gili's also suffer from the effect of climate change. Coral will bleach on extended periods of increases in ocean water temperature which can occur with just 1.5 degrees difference. In the time we were about I suspect coral was bleaching, although I couldn't tell between that and the dynamited coral about.

    A massive thanks to the crew at Compass Divers. For all your professionalism and good vibes! Rozzie, Samsal, Ebing, OG - you guys are all incredible guides. Thank you to Jon, Eka and Titi for helping us with our needs and being the best. Also a special thanks to those that we spent our time with on and off the water - Luis and Liza in particular.

    For a tourism outfit, you guys treated us like we weren't just any tourists. We had such an epic time hanging out with all of you. Thank you once again and we hope to see you out on the water another time.
    Meer informatie

  • Dag 4

    First day riding - Bali to Lombok

    7 april, Indonesië ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    We'd woke to the sound of prayer. It was four in the morning and we hadn't been without the sound of prayer since arriving off the ferry the night before. Lembar, a small port town on the south west coast of the island of Lombok, is home to a strongly faithed Islamic community which had come as a large culture shock to Tim and I the night before.

    We had rode past few mosques on our way to our accommodation. The first had a wallless, pillared architecture making it easy to view the hundreds of people gathered for ceremony. Men and women performed rituals in prayer of their gods, mothers of infants tended to their young ones and children ran freely around the grounds. Stray cats also presented themselves amongst the distinct lack of vegetation in the area.

    We had found mosques in the region install large loud speaker systems which broadcasts their prayers across town. All mosques perform their broadcasts at the same time, but recite will often different prayers. This came across as competition amongst the mosques wherever you are based across town. By the time you've enjoyed the tranquility in between prayer sessions, you'll be reminded soon enough that you are in foreign which does not belong to you.

    The day before had been a great first day for us on the bike. Denpasar, Bali is a highly congested city with chaotic traffic. We'd decided on a route which goes through the city centre which had turned out to be fine due to the pace of traffic and self awareness drivers persist on these roads. In many ways, it was a fantastic way to explore more of the city different to that of the pace explored with moped scooters.

    We'd found accomodation with a lovely local couple who'd offered us the option between $5 and $20 a night for rooms available with or without AC. The motel was very basic, provided with simple Islamic architecture. The next morning we set off for the south coast aiming to catch up with mates for a few days in Kuta, Lombok.
    Meer informatie

  • Dag 3

    Bali - Day three

    6 april, Indonesië ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Tim and I had allocated a night to party of which we'd planned to be hungover for the next day. For then, we'd only left tasks of small admin - retrieving the bikes out storage, getting lost around the city, laying on the beaches of Kuta and final bike maintenance before we were due to set off the following day. Once preparations were complete, a final visit to the coffee house was made before collecting some rest ahead of our first day on the bikes.Meer informatie