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Newfoundland & Labrador

June - July 2018
Summer wanderings 2018 Read more
  • 31footprints
  • 2countries
  • 51days
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  • 2.3kmiles
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  • TravelerNewfoundland & Labrador
    Day 1

    Beginnings, again.

    June 5, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Why? Why all the wandering? The restlessness? If you've ever seen an animal searching for a place to build a den, you'd know. And if you haven't had that experience, here is the first chapter of her story by way of explaining further....Once upon a time, deep into a magical forest that hovered near the ocean’s edge, there lived a Girl. This Girl would wake each day to the sound of the wind in the tall, swaying pines and the far off, mournful howl of the coyote. These noises would trigger a feeling in her heart that pulled her toward the surrounding woods or onto the salty beach. It was in those places that she was the happiest. She would use her long, strong body to follow the tracks of an animal hoping to get even a fleeting glimpse of something with a spirit wilder than hers. Or she’d stop by a stream where she would spend hours, hunkered on a rock, fascinated by the epic emergence of a stone fly from its' exoskeleton. She'd gasp in awe at the agility of a kingfisher as it zoomed by. She’d hear the blue jay screech and, knowing they were the newscasters of this special place, she'd enjoy the ripple effect of their call throughout the trees and across the shoreline. The Girl loved her woods and her rivers and her beach but most of all, she simply loved being outdoors and free. Away from regular humans with their rules and materialism and judgement. Away from the general lack of appreciation for all the magic that is in this world every day. So off she goes. Again. With all her senses on alert for magic!Read more

  • TravelerNewfoundland & Labrador
    Day 4

    Lubec, ME

    June 8, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    I have this image in my head of a race horse, all decked out in colors, glistening a little after a good warm up, fighting at the gate like a two year old being wrestled into the grocery cart by a young, busy Mom. How's that for a mixed metaphor?! At any rate, after a little delay, I'm off. On day 1, I made my way to Lubec, ME. I rolled into town about 7pm, popped into the Lubec Brewing Company where there was a little live music to accompany the dark beer that I tried. It was a mostly local crowd, save for the two woman who were sitting next to me. Their story unfolded between sips of my beer. Apparently, they were life-long, Georgia natives. Friends since kindergarten, who were doing a little road trip. Though honestly, I got the impression that it was a drinking trip that happened to be on a road headed north. Their initial comment to the bartender, "Which of your beers has the highest alcohol content?", was a subtle hint that my impression was accurate. They continued to wonder out loud at how there was so little trash up here, how easy going and friendly people were, and how much people exercised. When she asked what I did for work, her response was, "You've got the best job. PE teachers get to just pull out their lesson plans from last year and go with it. Other teachers need to plan every day". Externally I smiled and mumbled something like, "Huh. That has not quite been my experience.", while internally I was thinking, " And THIS, the viewing of the world through others' eyes, the practice of being open minded to others' opinions, is what makes getting out into the world so fascinating." As I listened and watched the two of them twitter and sip, I finished my drink and then scooted out the door and back down the hill where I climbed into my truck. It was tucked into a side street, overlooking the harbor. I heard a final screech of an eagle and saw the last bit of creamsicle colored sunset as the temperature dropped and put me to sleep. Next stop, Nova Scotia.Read more

  • TravelerNewfoundland & Labrador
    Day 5

    Do-Over

    June 9, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    It isn't often that one gets a "do-over" in life. But driving this far north is allowing me to experience spring 2018 all over, again! Fiddleheads, lupine, buds of every configuration combined for that amazing, classic early spring interplay of greens. So many different shades of green! I love this time in spring, before the colors mature into something more uniformly emerald green. Right now there is a variety of hue in every direction. The sky, filled with puffy clouds, obscures the sun creating little patches of shadow. Layers of darkness and light challenges this non-artist, to label them. Labels aside, it is beautiful and fascinating and it fills me with emotions that are a reflection of the layers I see.
    I crossed the border, without incident, and stopped at the information center where I wished that you could hear what I was hearing. As I stepped out of the truck I was greeted simultaneously by the sound of bagpipes and a swarm of mosquitoes. The mosquitoes, as if responding to the music, seemed to dance around me, tugging at my skirt, vying for attention. It didn't work. All I could hear was the bagpiper!    Read more

  • TravelerNewfoundland & Labrador
    Day 5

    Holy Extreme Tides, Batman!

    June 9, 2018 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    So from Amherst I booked it to Nova Scotia's South Shore. Just a little note: My bear magnet is in full effect! Within 30 minutes of crossing the border I was treated to a big black bear lumbering right out in front of me. Yes, I was in my car, safe and sound. He was spectacular and I am SO grateful for the glimpse. He looked up, freaked out, and ran away. Apparently he is not a fan of middle aged women with braids...
    As I continued on I noticed that this peninsula of Nova Scotia is big enough that each area has its own geography and feel. This south shore was the one area that I missed when I visited last summer. It is all red dirt, rolling hills of farmland and TIDES. Huge, mind-bending tides that leave exposed an ocean floor that is red dirt, too. Cornflower blue skies, cotton white clouds, bright green seedlings, and this brick red dirt. And in concert with this special part of Nova Scotia, I already feel the uniqueness of these people. There is "a thing" that is universal across Nova Scotia. I, personally, have a part of me that wants to help when I see someone with "that look" in their eyes. It might be a look of confusion or discomfort or fear. In any case, I always have an urge to step in and try to assist. I think some people label that as controlling. Those people(who see helping as controlling) should never come to Nova Scotia. It would drive them crazy. Nova Scotians are warm, open, helpful, easy going...need I say more?
    I made it all the way to Scots Bay, to the trail head for Cape Split, where I set up camp for the night. I was up high on a hill above the ocean. The sound of the waves mixed with the wind in the pines. Dark as dark can be. Cold, probably low 40's. And peaceful. I slept like a rock.    Read more

  • TravelerNewfoundland & Labrador
    Day 6

    Apologies for my ancestor..

    June 10, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Happy Birthday, Heather!!! I traveled to Hall's Harbour on this day of the birth of one of the most spectacular Halls. The short story is I think Heather has built up enough good karma in this world to offset our less than stellar ancestor, Captain Samuel Hall, for whom this place is named.
    For starters, I awoke near the trail head for Cape Split, made a little coffee and oatmeal. packed an apple and a peanut butter sandwich, and set off on the trail. It was meant to be about 8 miles round trip, but the part of my brain that can be obsessive kicked in letting me know that I was still in at least partial "work mode". I couldn't shake the idea that I had a deadline today. I was already about a mile into the trail, but I knew I wouldn't be able to fully enjoy the wander unless I backtracked to make that phone call. The deadline I had in my mind was a day earlier than the real one but was able to take care of the dangling details which cleared my mind for the morning. Accounting for the mile out and then back, the walk was an even 10 miles instead of 8. A piece of cake for my distance running friends!
    One of the cool things about most of Canada is it is still easy to be alone. At the early hour of the day, even with my fits and starts, I saw only one couple on the whole hike. It was a beauty of a walk. Ferns unfurling, little hellebore, foam flowers, and the sound of the ocean were all part of the experience. About 1000m from the arrival to the furthest most point, I could hear the cacophony of seabirds. What made it weird was the fact that I was also hearing the twitter and chirp of songbirds. The middle picture shows the view that I had as the forest abruptly opened up to this seabird rookery. The cliff was covered with birds. I took off my back pack, sat down on the grass, soaking up the solitude and enjoyed the concert provided by the birds and the wind and the waves lapping at the cliff. It was then that I noticed that this cliff top also had at least two dozen tiny, gray puffballs toddling around chirping with tiny peeps as they moved. Why is it, with out a nest to contain them, that these little tumbleweeds don't walk off (or get blown off) the cliff? Honestly, I need an answer to that one. The return trip was uneventful and I climbed back into the truck, stopping at a beautiful beach to have a "bath", before heading to Hall's Harbour.
    So here's the deal with Captain Hall. Not a cool cat. Apparently he was a pirate from New England who came up to the coast of Nova Scotia and found this skinny little harbor(harbour) to tuck his ship into. From there, he and his crew hopped off the boat and helped themselves to whatever they wanted. There are stories of the pillaged treasure being buried and/or hidden for return trips, as well as stories of the full on robbery of the local gardens. It is now an adorable little town with a famous seafood spot right on the inlet where Captain Hall hid. Keep that good karma coming Hall fam. See, I knew being helpful would account for something!    Read more

  • TravelerNewfoundland & Labrador
    Day 7

    Kejimkujik

    June 11, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    Kedji-ma-KOO-jik. OR, as I like to call it, kedji-ma-ma-MAgic! A beautiful little oasis in the middle of the South Shore of Nova Scotia. Owls and loon and gently burbling, delicate rivers made for a wonderful way to spend a night and an early morning. After a couple of hours on the Mersy River, I got back into the truck and put in some highway miles heading northeast. Generally heading toward Margaree and, hopefully some salmon fishing!Read more

  • TravelerNewfoundland & Labrador
    Day 9

    Doing the Salmon Dance

    June 13, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    I've learned to expect this on every trip I've taken. A moment where I feel unsettled. A moment where I hear myself wondering, "What are you doing?". And it often comes in the very beginning of a trip when I'm still in "pedal to the metal" mode. Long driving days, trying to see everything all at once, not giving myself permission to slow down. Usually accompanied by loose ends at work that are still requiring my attention or little fires with tenants, also requiring my attention. I felt those emotions over the last few days but the return trip to Margaree River is helping to soothe and refocus.
    Last year, I came through here by mistake and had a fishing day with a generous local gentleman who showed me all the good spots! So this year, despite the fact that the gentleman I mentioned is away for a few weeks, I have the good fortune of knowing right where to go. It is cold still(49 degrees), and the apple blossoms and leaves are just coming into full bloom but the salmon, according to locals, always arrive by June 10th. It is now June 14th. And there is no sign of them yet. I'll wait til morning, fish one more session and then push on northward. Anyone know the "Salmon Dance"?    Read more

  • TravelerNewfoundland & Labrador
    Day 11

    Early Bird Gets the Moose!

    June 15, 2018 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 39 °F

    I rumbled up over the mountains of Cape Breton Highlands National Park thinking, "How strange to be this far from home and to be so familiar with the road". When I was here last summer, the road was all torn up with construction and now, this morning, it was new-tar, smooth-sailing. And, as usual, there were very few cars on the road. It was very early morning. The light was low and slanted but from about 1200m away I saw him. He was right next to the road, nibbling on the new green shoots of spring (seriously, it is still like NH's late April up here). I slowed way down, got the camera ready, and inched toward him. I knew he'd eventually bolt so I just tried to enjoy the moment, allowing my mind to gobble details. He was a gangly teenager. And, apparently, like human teens, when one is hungry, competing thoughts(like humans coming dangerously close) don't quite register as the normal threat. I got closer, and closer, and closer until I was able to stop the car right near him and just watch. So fun! I thanked him and moved on down the road.
    It was then that, amazingly, another treasure appeared. I had just reached the eastern coast and I was marveling at how the water looked Caribbean blue-green when, my animal spotter eye noticed a big dark blob that didn't belong. (Can you spot her in picture 3?). She, unlike her teenage counterpart, noticed me from far away and tromped hurriedly back into the brush. Long look or short glimpse, it was still awesome to see my second moose of the morning. I drove slowly for about another 300m and took one more look over my left shoulder just in case she had popped out on the other side of the clump of brush. Ooooh!!
    Two little mooselets! No more than a few days old. The color of cinnamon or the perfect camoflauge, orangy-brown of a dead pine bough. They, too, scampered back toward the thick brush where their now identified Mama was waiting. Don'tcha love Cape Breton?    Read more

  • TravelerNewfoundland & Labrador
    Day 12

    Necessary slow down...

    June 16, 2018 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Little slow down in the (comparatively) densely populated city of North Sydney. I booked my ferry travel to Newfoundland and changed the oil in the truck. I also plan do laundry today and then get groceries that will presumably, be cheaper here than on Newfoundland. Tomorrow night I will board the ferry for the 16 hour sail to Argentia, Newfoundland. Apparently pronounced, "Are-JEN-sha".Read more

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